Cruising the Nile

The legendary river connects visitors to ancient wonders and the gifts of modern Egypt

By Lois Alter Mark

There’s a common Egyptian blessing, “May you always drink from the Nile.” While taking that sentiment literally may not be the best idea, I wish instead that you could cruise it like I did this summer.

Home to the only remaining ancient wonder of the world, Egypt was always a bucket list destination for me. For years, I dreamed of seeing the Great Pyramids and taking a deep dive into the country. I knew I had to see it on a cruise ship. I couldn’t imagine visiting without experiencing it travelling on the very river that helped build Egypt.

The Nile is such an integral part of the country that many experts have been quoted as saying, “Without the Nile, there is no Egypt.” Herodotus, considered the father of history, wrote that the land of ancient Egyptians was “given them by the river.” I was finally getting to explore that gift by sailing on Viking’s newest ship, Osiris (named after one of the most important Egyptian deities), built specifically to navigate the Nile.

VIKING OSIRIS SHIP CRUISING THE NILE

˝ VIKING CRUISES

My trip begins on land in Cairo, where my first view of the Nile was through the floor-to-ceiling windows in my hotel room at the Ritz Carlton. I couldn’t believe I was staying next to this legendary river and that it was surrounded by – surprise – the neon lights of a bustling city. I don’t know if I was expecting to see baby Moses floating in a basket or Agatha Christie’s Death on the Nile steamboat, but I was not prepared for the sight of the grandeur of the Nile City Casino. This was just one of many contrasts I would discover in this surprising and fascinating country.

Wasting no time, our first tour took us right to the pyramids. Simply jaw-dropping. It was surreal to see them in person and impossible to fathom that these gigantic, manmade masterpieces have been standing for more than 4,500 years given the fact my refrigerator couldn’t even last a decade.

THE GREAT PYRAMID

We got tickets to enter the Great Pyramid, but I spent only a few minutes inside. Although I found it stifling, some in our group crawl through the long, narrow corridors to reach the King’s Chamber.

When we headed over to the Sphinx afterwards, I felt the same sense of awe when I strolled through the streets of Rome many years ago and came across the Colosseum for the first time. The fact that human beings had the vision and skill to create things like these continues to give me hope for the future.

Later, I visited the Egyptian Museum, home to more than 120,000 items. They tell the remarkable story of the influential ancient civilization. I took dozens of pictures so I could examine their details once back home. I was amazed by the tales told through an intricate language of symbols and drawings. I could have spent a full day exploring this museum alone.

LUXOR TEMPLE

The next morning, after a short flight to Luxor, we embarked on the Viking Osiris to continue our journey through Egypt. Paying homage to its home country, the ship’s walls are filled with exclusive photos of the country in the early 1900s taken by George Herbert, the 5th Earl of Carnarvon, who was the benefactor of Howard Carter. This year marks the 100th anniversary of Carter’s discovery of King Tutankhamun’s tomb and it was enlightening to spend time at Carter House, where he lived and worked during his historic expedition.

Visiting the tomb of King Tutankhamen in the Valley of the Kings was sobering – a study in everything from archaeology and engineering to communication and religion. In the Valley of the Queens (the resting place of the pharaohs’ wives), I’m lucky to see the tomb of Queen Nefertari, rarely seen by visitors. Passengers were given a special pass to access it. The magnificent royal burial grounds are works of art in their own right. They are thought-provoking in what they reveal about the ancient Egyptians’ attitudes toward death and the afterlife. They stick with me once I got home.

Although we spent many hours at tombs and temples, including Karnak, Luxor, Dendera and the Ancient Temple of Esna, it never got, well, old. These excursions were eye-opening, thanks to Viking’s resident Egyptologist, Hanan Elbeih. She shared stories behind everything we saw, bringing history to life and showing us why these relics remain relevant.

EXPLORING THE RUINS OF THE ANCIENT KARNAK TEMPLE

On this trip, I learned about hieroglyphics, mythology, ancient and modern Egypt. As the ship sailed down the Nile, I admired the scenery from my veranda and tried to imagine what it looked like centuries ago. I thought a lot about ingenuity and beliefs – and what we can continue to build on today that will still be there for generations to marvel at thousands of years from now.

My Nile River cruise turned out to be one of the most meaningful trips I’ve ever taken. My only disappointment was that the highly anticipated Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) had not opened yet. That’s okay. It just gives me an excuse to come back.

Our Experts Suggest

In addition to Viking Cruises, there are many other cruise lines sailing down the legendary Nile River with purpose-built cruise ships.

• Avalon Waterways offers two itineraries on the Nile: the 10-day Taste of Egypt and 14-day Taste of Egypt with Jordan. Onboard the 120-passenger MS Farah, you’ll be treated to an elegant, first-class experience featuring beautiful staterooms with French balconies, onboard cooking classes by the chef, and relaxing spa services with à la carte massages included.

• AmaWaterways takes you through history onboard its 72-guest AmaDahlia on a Secrets of Egypt & the Nile itinerary – a 7-night cruise, plus 3-night pre-cruise and 1-night post-cruise stays in Cairo. Marvel at the scenic Nile River views from your signature view-enhancing twin balcony, soak in the heated sundeck pool and enjoy regionally inspired entertainment throughout your journey.

• Uniworld Boutique River Cruises offers its captivating 12-day itinerary, Splendours of Egypt & the Nile, onboard two ships – the S.S. Sphinx, a beautifully appointed, 42-suite ship with two gourmet dining venues, a swimming pool and a massage room onboard; and the 82-guest River Tosca, an elegantly designed, all-suite ship with a staff-to-guest ratio of almost 1:1.