Teton Sport Mode

An energetic romp throughWyoming and Idaho

by NANCY HELLMRICH

Gary was a real character in that “I’ve done everything worth doing before you” sort of way. A fit, former physician, he moved through the world with unbridled confidence, which elicited eye-rolls from most of the group and envy from me. Despite encouragement to go at our own pace, I made it my goal to match Gary’s level of athleticism throughout this multi-sport tour.

I had booked the solo travel tour through Wyoming and Idaho in a fit of pique triggered by my husband taking off on an extended trip without me.

I chose an active adventure because personal breakthroughs rarely happen in spectator mode. When I arrived in Jackson, I had been hoping to merely keep up. But then Gary strolled in, and I decided I needed to win.

The town of Jackson, Wyoming, sits in a 55-mile-long valley called Jackson Hole, which is bordered by the Gros Ventre Range to the east and the Tetons to the west. The Snake River flows north to south through the valley, then west into Idaho. Across the Wyoming-Idaho state line, the “back” of the range is dappled with farms, small towns, family ski hills, and forest trails. To the north, is Yellowstone, the first national park in the U.S., perhaps even the world.

Our tour began with a ride over Teton Pass, up through Idaho’s farmlands, to the quieter west entrance of Yellowstone. Here, we trotted as a group along well-traveled paths and boardwalks to geothermal wonders like the Great Fountain Geyser, Fountain Paint Pot, and Old Faithful. My favorite was Morning Glory Pool, which has all the glamour of the Grand Prismatic Spring without all the fuss.

Next, we tackled Uncle Tom’s Trail, which is actually a 328-step staircase that descends into the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone to the base of the Lower Falls. Gary was down and up in a flash, having been there and seen that before. But I lingered at the falls, dazzled by the rainbow, before returning to the top. The following day, as we paddled kayaks along the shoreline of Yellowstone Lake, I wondered when the competitive part of the trip would really kick in.

My answer came the next morning when we pocketed bear spray and crossed Jenny Lake to hike Cascade Canyon. As soon as the ferry docked, Gary bounded off. I was almost on his heels when a hotelier and a Pilates instructor asked if they could join me. My lips said “Sure!” but my eyes watched Gary disappear into the trees. I shared my goal of catching him, and the girls were keen.

After an accidental but lovely detour to Hidden Falls, we found the main trail and were skipping along at a nice clip when we came upon a hushed European. Hearts pounding in our chests, we followed his gaze down the ravine and spotted a spectacular moose positively shimmering in the sun. After a minute of stunned silence we tiptoed slowly past the still-mesmerized German and resumed our Gary-chasing pace.

One of the highlights of this hike is the views of the cathedral peaks—Teewinot, Grand Teton, and Mt. Owen.

We oohed and ahh’d our way through the scenery, pausing for a chat with a pungent hiker who warned us that the final grade was jagged and steep. After a rocky scramble, we reached the glacial moraine. And there, beside Lake Solitude, stood Gary.

The next morning, we gathered at Jackson Lake for a 53-mile bike ride to Teton Village. Gary had left early and taken a more challenging route. But the meeting spot was the same, so, technically, the race was still on. With the Tetons towering overhead, I stood on my pedals and pushed into the hot, dry headwind. It wasn’t long before the Pilates instructor caught up with me, and I realized I was her Gary. Together, we peddled past the National Elk Refuge, paused at a bridge for a bear and two cubs, then raced toward the village and Gary’s gregarious, “What took you so long?”

The grand finale was a Snake River rafting adventure featuring a Vikinglike guide, famous rapids, and an effervescent section called Champagne. The next day, I strolled around town buzzing with self-confidence. Then hiked up the ski hill to “The Deck,” ordered Idaho fries and a Huckleberry cocktail, and sat savoring the view and my newfound invincibility before riding the “gondi” back down to earth.

To plan your next active vacation contact your trusted travel advisor today.