Columbia Rising

COLOMBIA RISING

With vibrant cities and enchanting islands, Colombia is engaging, energetic and safe.

by ROBIN CHERRY

Historic La Candelaria neighborhood, Bogota

Bogota is over one-and-a-half miles above sea level, making it the world’s fourth highest capital after La Paz, Quito, and Thimphu. The top of Monserrat, the mountain that dominates Bogota’s skyline, can be reached by cable car, funicular, or on foot. When I prepared to climb the 1,500 steps – an altitude gain that brought me to almost two miles above sea level, I expressed my concern to the concierge. He asked how many feet I lived above sea level. “About twelve,” I said. “Oh,” he replied, “altitude might be an issue.” I didn’t even mention my asthma.

The climb was rigorous and my ego took a bit of a bruising as toddlers and grandmothers darted by me, but the view from the top gives you a sense of Bogota’s immensity – it’s home to over eight million people. Wander the colonial Candelaria neighborhood, home to Bogota’s star attraction: the Gold Museum, which houses the world’s largest collection of gold items including many pre-Colombian artifacts.

Botero Plaza, Medellin

Lively and verdant Medellin is an easy (and inexpensive) one-hour flight away. Sadly, many still associate the city with the drug cartel, but those days are long gone. Medellin’s heart, Botero Plaza, is dotted with 23 whimsical statues by native son Fernando Botero. The Museum of Antioquia, a stunning Art Deco building, houses works by Botero as well as donations from his personal collection. To understand this fascinating city, I recommend a walking tour and a Metrocable ride up to Arvi Park, a nature preserve. Medellin’s metro system, which includes trains, cable cars, and escalators, is largely credited with the city’s revival as it made it possible for people living in the far reaches of the city (Medellin is home to over 2.5 million people) to travel affordably to their jobs.

Providencia Island

Providencia Island, a hidden gem closer to Nicaragua than Colombia, is hard to get to but worth it. (When I went, the airport was closed to all but small private planes so I took a harrowing 3.5-hour catamaran ride. My first clue I was in for a rough ride was the seasick tablet I was given with my boarding pass.) Fortunately I arrived at a tranquil island with beautiful palm-fringed beaches that I had all to myself. I checked into Hotel Deep Blue, a mountainside retreat with views of Crab Cay where I went snorkeling with sea turtles. I rented a Kawasaki 4x4, and drove around the island from beach to beach. I stopped for a cocktail at Roland’s seaside bar followed by grilled fish at Miss Elma’s and lime pie at Cafe Social.

Women selling fruit in Cartagena

I then flew to Cartagena, a brightly colored gem overlooking the Caribbean. The city enchants with bougainvilleadraped houses and colonial churches. Visit the city walls and some churches, but the joy of Cartagena is strolling the streets and stopping at outdoor cafes. Anthony Bourdain praised La Cevicheria, which is a bit touristy but the fish is divine.

After two weeks in Colombia, I’d covered a lot of ground but missed the lush coffee growing region and the Amazonian rainforest. I’ll be back.

Monserrate aerial tramway

WHERE TO STAY

Sofitel Legend Cartagena Santa Clara – in the heart of Cartagena’s UNESCO World Heritage Site walled city – was built in 1621 as a convent, transformed to a stunning hotel in the late 20th century, and in 2012 joined the ranks of Sofitel’s elite “Legend” brand. This iconic retreat blends the allure of history with exceptional service, local hospitality, and French savoir-faire.

Sofitel Legend Cartagena Santa Clara

To book your trip to Colombia, please contact your Ensemble Travel ® Group Advisor.