3 minute read
HAWAII BEYOND THE LUAU
by MING TAPPIN
My journey of discovery began in Moloka’i ...
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the gorgeous and uncrowded island that is a throwback to pre-commercialized Hawaii. There are no high-rises, sprawling resorts, or even public transit. Instead, I found deserted beaches, quaint towns and lush valleys. On Moloka’i’s must-eat list is piping hot bread from Kanemitsu Bakery, slathered with your choice of cinnamon butter, cream cheese, or strawberry jam — or better yet, make it the works.
After four days of mellowing in Moloka’i, I board Safari Explorer where another reality lies ahead. Forget what you know about conventional cruising – UnCruise Adventures is aptly named because it is unlike any other. With just 36 guests, the vessel is more like a laidback private yacht. Where else can you see a captain steer his ship wearing shorts and flip flops? And packing becomes so much easier without dressy clothes and fancy shoes. We eat in a comfortable dining room and socialize in a cozy lounge with comfy leather sofas and a wood-trimmed bar. No shows or casinos here, but there are social hours and informative talks about Hawaii’s history, culture, flora and fauna.
© Hawaii Tourism Authority
Each day, as we tuck into breakfast that ranges from huevos rancheros to macadamia nut French toast, we listen attentively to our chef describe what’s for lunch and dinner. Whenever we couldn’t decide — which was often — we would ask for a sample of each dish on our plate. We dine on seared ahi tuna steaks, Thai curries and crispy pork belly, all deliciously made from scratch and cooked to order. But if one desires, a cheeseburger and fries are easily arranged. "In Moloka’i’s sacred Halawa Valley, we meet Anakala “Uncle” Pilipo Solatorio — a descendant of the Hawaiian people still living off the land by hunting, MUSIC farming taro and raising livestock."
For seven days, we snorkel, kayak, and head ashore to hike and visit the locals, guided by an expert expedition team. In Moloka’i’s sacred Halawa Valley, we meet Anakala “Uncle” Pilipo Solatorio — a descendant of the Hawaiian COCKTAIL people still living off the land by hunting, farming taro and raising livestock. Through his fascinating stories, we learn authentic Hawaiian culture is much different from the touristy version.
© UnCruise Adventures
In Lana’i, I meet descendants of a furry kind at the Cat Sanctuary, built to house the feral cats that used to prey on the native birds. Today, more than 600 felines call the 3.5-acre sanctuary home. The birds are proliferating, and the cats are content getting lots of head scratches and love from cooing visitors like me. And under the inky skies off the coast of the Big Island, I don a wetsuit and jump into the water to watch giant manta rays feed on plankton while performing their swooping dance.
© UnCruise Adventures
As this is March, our cruise includes humpback whale watching. We come across a small group of males fin-slapping and bodyslamming each other in their own underwater sumo match. The strongest and most resilient gets the prize — a ready-to-mate female waiting patiently in the wings. As we watch their antics and listen to their songs through an underwater hydrophone, they often swim underneath us and resurface mere feet away. They are so close we can see the barnacles on their backs and hear their exhalations. Other charming Hawaiian residents we meet include pilot whales, spinner dolphins and countless reef fish, including the state’s marine ambassador, the colorful tongue-twister humuhumunukunukuapua’a (reef triggerfish).
© Hawaii Tourism Authority
Like eating hot bread in Moloka’i and cuddling cats in Lana’i, Hawaii is about feelgood experiences, delightful discoveries, and lessons on the true aloha spirit. For your next trip — or even your first, skip the busy bus tours and souvenir shops, and venture beyond the luau. By the way, according to Uncle Pilipo, luau refers to the leaf of the taro plant. The traditional Hawaiian term for the sumptuous feast is pā’ina, and you’ll get to enjoy an authentic one during your cruise to Moloka’i — another perk you can experience in Hawaii.
© Hawaii Tourism Authority
