The Traveler's Table magazine 2019

Page 22

DINING WITH PURPOSE

FORAGING FARE, FOUR WAYS BY TIM JOHNSON

MORE AND MORE DINING EXPERIENCES ARE TAKING GUESTS FOR A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE, SERVING UP SUPER-LOCAL FORAGED FLORA AND FAUNA – A RESTAURANT STYLE MADE FAMOUS BY THE MICHELIN-STARRED NOMA RESTAURANT IN COPENHAGEN. HERE ARE FOUR OF THE BEST.

Gustu (La Paz, Bolivia):

Equal parts restaurant and social initiative, this unassuming spot, tucked away in La Paz’s Calacoto neighborhood, was started by Claus Meyer – who most famously co-founded Noma, once the world’s best restaurant. Here in the world’s highest capital city (surrounded by snow-capped Andean peaks, the heart of La Paz reaches more than 3,600 metres), Gustu serves up a weird, wonderful, all-Bolivian tasting menu scoured from these high-altitude climes, where both the air and soil are thin. Also expect national favorites such as appetizers of ‘silky palm marrow with alpaca charque,’ Amazonian fish stew, and a dessert that delivers goat cheese ice cream. And in line with Meyer’s goal to “fight poverty through deliciousness,” he founded a cooking school for disadvantaged youth, channelling them into Gustu’s esteemed kitchen upon graduation.

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