A TASTE OF
NORTHERN
SPAIN BY RICHARD FRISBIE
FROM THE SALT VALLEY TO THE ALORRENEA CIDER HOUSE, WRITER RICHARD FRISBIE EATS AND DRINKS HIS WAY THROUGH THE RIOJA ALAVESA REGION OF SPAIN’S BASQUE COUNTRY. The Basque city of San Sebastian, known for its Michelin-starred restaurants, is the pinnacle of culinary destinations in Spain. The hard work of regional vintners and growers created the foundation that supports it. But, before we taste the gastronomy of San Sebastian, my friend, Mikel Urkijo, picks me up at the Bilbao airport and insists we tour the Basque interior to seek the roots of that perfection. Saltwater from springs that bubble up to the surface through the salt deposits of ancient seas is still evaporated the way it was in Roman times at Salinas de Añana, or Salt Valley. Gravity moves saltwater along wooden troughs to shallow tables jutting out from the hillside like giant steps. They are supported by wooden scaffolding so encrusted with salt that it looks like 4 0 | T R AV E L E R ’ S TA B L E | W I N T E R 2 0 1 9
a snowy landscape even in summer. The result is the purest form of salt, endorsed by many Michelin star chefs, used to season the great cuisine we are served everywhere we go. The landscape of the region is dominated by rugged spires of rock to the north. The vast rolling plain below is ideal growing country, offering a patchwork vista of farms and vineyards fanning out around hilltop villages. Laguardia is the most picturesque; its ancient walls protecting narrow, pedestrian-only streets hiding a vast network of wine caves beneath them. One belongs to Casa Primicia, the oldest original winery in Spain. Here, the history of the early wine-making process is preserved. We take stone steps down to the 15th century wine cave before viewing the modern stainless-steel wine making set-up in the back room. Casa Primicia’s award-winning wines are paired with the various courses we enjoy at the nearby restaurant, Los Parajes. My favorite dish is a traditional Basque potato and sausage “Rioja style,” a satisfyingly complex comfort food to match the full-bodied Julian Madrid Reserva wine of Casa Primicia.
