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Envy Italy Magazine's Guide to 3 Days in Rome, Italy
Rome was not built in a day – it has thousands of years of history, which you will absorb into your bones if you stay long enough. However, most of us don’t have years to explore this magnificent museum of a city but instead maybe a couple of days at best. Envy Italy has put together a three-day tour to experience the essence of Rome which we hope will whet your appetite enough to have you come again soon to explore the city in more depth
If you have less than three days then decide which are your must-dos. For most it’s the main famous landmarks: the Colosseum, Pantheon, Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, which are all walkable in one day. So stick with your most-wanted list and enjoy the streets in-between where there are hidden delights along the way. One big tip when wandering Rome is to pop into any church you pass, as most are a haven of hidden architectural and artistic excellence.
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If the Vatican is on your list, be aware that this is away from the landmarks above so it definitely should be done on a pre-booked tour basis. The Vatican is huge and the full tour lasts three and a half hours. This is well recommended as there are so many fantastic details and backstories you will miss otherwise.
Day 1
Colosseum. Roman Forum. Cisco Massimo. Giardino degli Aranci. Vittorio Emanuele II Monument.
Our recommendations for Day 1 are quite close together so you could do a whirlwind tour of them and still have time to enjoy meandering the streets of Rome, do some shopping or to just soak up the atmosphere.
Colosseum - Start early and pre-book a ticket for the Colosseum. Following its fantastic years of restoration it is not to be missed. There is an audio tour but to be honest we recommend just reading the history beforehand (see our quick guide on envyitaly.com) rather than wasting time with the audio tour as it’s not great.
Roman Forum - This is everything you expect Roman ruins to be. Right next to the Colosseum this area with ruins scattered all over it will be rather confusing if you don’t do your research first. It was the grand centrepiece of ancient Rome with temples, public areas and the political buildings of the Empire. Research the Casa delle Vestali, the Curia and the Arco di Settimio Severo which are all here in their ruin form and you can impress your friends with knowing which stones you are looking at.
Circo Massimo - It may at first glance just look like a very long dog walking or jogging track but this 600 m oblong field was the largest chariot racetrack and entertainment zone in ancient Rome with a seating area capable of holding 250,000 people (a quarter of the city’s population). A visit to Circo Massimo has been enhanced by the restoration of a small section of the original stadium, where visitors can now access the galleries and rooms to see the remains of ancient latrines, inns, shops, warehouses, laundries and betting stations.
Giardino degli Aranci - Parco Savello, better known as Giardino degli Aranci, is a small terrace on the Aventine overlooking the Tiber. This small walled park planted with ancient orange trees has one of the most beautiful views of the city and is one of the best places to watch the sun set over Rome.
Vittorio Emanuele II Monument - The Vittorio Emanuele II Monument, also known as the Altar of the Fatherland, and nicknamed the wedding cake, is a monument built in honour of Victor Emmanuel II, who undertook the complex process of the unification of Italy throughout the second half of the nineteenth century and the first king of a unified Italy. It was inaugurated on 4 June 1911 and completed in 1935.
Its design is a neoclassical interpretation of the Roman Forum. It features stairways, Corinthian columns, fountains, an equestrian sculpture of Victor Emmanuel II and two statues of the goddess Victoria riding on quadrigas. The base of the monument houses the museum of Italian Unification, and in 2007 a panoramic lift was added to the structure, in which you can ride up to the roof for 360-degree views of Rome.
Day 2
Pantheon. Piazza Navona. Campo de’ Fiori. The Vatican.
There’s a lot of walking today as the Vatican is huge! Either dedicate the morning or afternoon to it and pre-book tickets to avoid the queues.
The Pantheon - The Pantheon is the most preserved and influential buildings of ancient Rome. A former Roman pagan temple dedicated to all the gods is now a Catholic church. It was completed by the emperor Hadrian and probably dedicated about 126 AD.
Its architecture boasts mathematical genius and simple geometry that today still impresses architects and amazes the eyes of visitors. Each year on Pentecost Sunday there is an ancient ceremony with the spectacular sight of thousands of rose petals fluttering down through the open oculus of the Pantheon following 10.30 a.m. Mass, symbolising the Holy Spirit’s descent to earth.
The Italian kings Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I, as well as the famous Renaissance painter Raphael and his fiancée, are buried in the Pantheon.
Piazza Navona - The most elegant public square is built on the site where the Stadium of Domitian was founded in 86 AD to which 20,000 spectators would come to see different athletic competitions. Now the square is surrounded by restaurants and terraces giving Piazza Navona a lively and delightful atmosphere during the day. Here you can enjoy lunch while watching street and portrait artists. The best parts of Piazza Navona are its three
beautiful fountains, the central and most famous being Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) which was designed by Bernini in 1651. Its four statues represent the most important rivers of the continents where Christianity had spread: the Nile, Danube, the Ganges and Rio de la Plata.
Campo de’ Fiori - Historical fruit and vegetable market by day, Campo de’ Fiori becomes the nerve centre of nightlife in the evening. While now a place of night entertainment, for centuries Campo de’ Fiori was the main stage for public executions. Among those burnt at the stake here in 1600 was Giordano Bruno, an Italian philosopher whose theories anticipated modern science and whose statue dominates the centre of the square.
The Vatican - The Vatican is the oldest and smallest independent state in the world and the one with the greatest concentration of historic and architectural wealth. The seat of the pope’s earthly power, the Vatican is almost as rich in mysteries as it is in works of art. Start with Saint Peter’s Basilica – the largest church in the Catholic world – and its spectacular piazza with its monumental colonnade, designed by Bernini. Continue on to the Vatican Museums, the most visited in the world and containing one of the largest art collections on earth, comprising part of the enormous collection accumulated over the centuries by the popes. Visit the Sistine Chapel – with its extraordinary frescoes by Michelangelo as well as the Apollo Belvedere and Raphael’s Stanze – where the conclave is held and the new pope elected. Eat at Calabascio, via Properzio 20-24. Friendly staff, delicious carbonara, gnocchi, and seafood risotto.
Day 3
Trevi Fountain. Spanish Steps. Piazza del Popolo. Galleria Borghese.
Today you will enjoy some more iconic sites of Rome with spare time inbetween to relax and buy a few souvenirs.
Trevi Fountain - Photos do not do the Trevi Fountain justice. Get up early and arrive while other tourists are still at breakfast to get an uncrowded photo. Don’t forget to throw your three coins (with your right hand over your left shoulder) into the 300-year-old fountain to ensure your return to Rome someday. The €2.4 million collected from the fountain each year is used to feed the homeless and needy of Rome.
Spanish Steps - With its irregular butterfly design, the beautiful “Scalina Spagna”, or Spanish Steps, were built to connect the lower Piazza di Spagna with the upper piazza Trinità dei Monti in 1723. Their unique design made it a popular place for artists, painters and poets, which attracted many women to the area hoping to be considered as muses and models. This in turn attracted travellers and rich Romans. Soon the steps became a popular meeting spot, as they still are today. A good place to take a rest and have a gelato.
Piazza del Popolo - During its history, this massive “square” has been a site for public executions, fairs, carnivals, games and competitions. At the centre is an obelisk (known as the Obelisco Flaminio), which is the oldest and second tallest in Rome, and the two Valadier fountains. However, it is the churches on the square that are worth the walk. While visits to the twin churches of Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria di Montesanto are worthwhile, do not miss a visit to the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo. Built on the burial site of Emperor Nero, it is an artistic treasure house with several major works, including two magnificent paintings by Caravaggio. Have lunch at the piazza before moving on to Villa Borghese for the afternoon.
Galleria Borghese - Villa Borghese was the suburban residence of the Prinz Borghese family and a great example of a villa belonging to a great Roman family at the beginning of the seventeenth century. The gardens are a lovely place for a picnic, but be sure to pre-book your tickets for the Galleria Borghese art museum and discover the wonderful works of Bernini, Caravaggio, Raffaello and Canova (allow three hours for this).
LIVING IT UP IN THE ETERNAL CITY
Angela Sara West gives the lowdown on where to head for a lavish stay, shop and play in the magical capital of Italy
With a history spanning over 2,500 years, it’s no wonder that Rome is known as the Eternal City. It’s the city of Caesar’s … romance … la dolce vita. Add the endless churches, crumbling palaces and medley of museums to the great gastronomy, superb shopping and fountain-filled piazzas and this sensational setting simply has to be seen to be believed.
Blessed with a wealth of antiquities, from the remains of its imperial glory days to the Renaissance, Rome is also bursting with Baroque and classical riches. It’s a glorious architectural patchwork where you stumble across the city’s characteristic quarters’ treasures, hidden corners and wonderful viewpoints by simply strolling around. The capital has been a backdrop to many a Hollywood film – rich in heritage, the history here is unsurpassable, making the city the perfect film set.
Hot hotels for sensational stays
Authentic accommodation, from the intimately chic ’n’ stylish to the ostentatiously and seriously sublime, is abundant here. Deluxe apartments, villas and townhouses include fashionistas’ faves, designer Portrait Suites, with a roof terrace overlooking Rome’s prime shopping street. Numerous boutique and classic majestic spa hotels perfectly marry traditional design with contemporary style and 5-star comfort with 24-hour concierge/butler service ... High-end homes-away-from-home after a roam around Rome.
J.K. Place Roma - Housed in what was once Rome’s School of Architecture, J.K. Place Roma offers a tranquil haven in the heart of the city. The original classrooms have been transformed into boutique bedrooms with interiors that are both classic and cool. Adorned with antique furniture, sculptures and marble, enjoy a laid-back take on la dolce vita, within minutes of Rome’s chicest shops and sights.
The Pantheon Iconic Hotel - This new kid on the block offers 79 contemporary rooms with modern interiors inspired by traditional Roman materials, like marble stone, brass, porcelain, wood, with indirect references to the Pantheon. The panoramic sixth-floor Divinity terrace bar is the coolest hang-out in town.
Palm Suites by Palazzo Manfredi - Fusing colourful, vintage and exotic designs with a sense of timeless charm these exciting new suites are a fashionista’s dream abode. The Palm Suite collection lies in the heart of the Eternal City with a super cool central location overlooking the imperial Roman forum.
Hassler Hotel - The award-winning accommodation of choice for the world’s elite, boasting panoramic views from the top of the renowned Spanish Steps. Everyone from The Beatles to the Beckhams have made a beeline to this historic hotel … Charlie Chaplin, Pablo Picasso, Prince Charles and Princess Diana and no fewer than four 007s (Daniel Craig, Sean Connery, Pierce Brosnan and Roger Moore), the list of A-listers goes on and on, and it’s more a case of who hasn’t stayed here and dined under and among the stars in the grand gourmet restaurant.
Rocco Forte - Check out Rocco Forte’s Hotel de Russie’s nearby ‘secret’ garden for jet set company, while the former InterContinental is now also part of the Rocco Forte collection and has been renamed Hotel de la Ville. Opening in May 2019 just above the Spanish Steps, Hotel de la Ville will be Rome’s most exciting new luxury destination. Inspired by the era of the Grand Tour, the hotel elegantly marries eighteenth-century architecture with contemporary luxury.
Aleph Rome Hotel - Aleph Rome Hotel, now in the Curio Collection by Hilton, makes for another trendy hip-hotel-of-the-moment stay.
Hotel Majestic Roma - Hotel Majestic Roma has welcomed royals, high-society members and showbiz stars since 1889, dishing up divine gourmet cuisine on its terrace overlooking the bustling Via Veneto below.
Hotel Splendide Royal - Hotel Splendide Royal presents phenomenal Villa Borghese Garden views from its swish terrace restaurant, while highclass art deco boutique hotel.
Hotel Bernini Bristol - Offering all the glamour and decadence of a bygone era with modern comfort, Hotel Bernini Bristol is frequented by royals and VIPs hosting lavish parties and banquets.
Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese - Neoclassical décor transports guests to the capital’s heyday at restored prestigious palace Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese. Its fashionable lounge bar and upscale English-style library serving scrumptious afternoon teas make for a very grand affair.
Parco dei Principi Grand Hotel & Spa - Elegant establishments elsewhere in the city include celeb-frequented Parco dei Principi Grand Hotel & Spa, boasting Rome’s best spa for those with a passion for pampering.
Rome Cavalieri - Ritzy Rome Cavalieri projects pure panache with plush design in a parkland setting. There’s a super spa, outdoor pool surrounded by cypress trees and Rome’s only three-Michelin-starred restaurant.
Aldrovandi Villa Borghese - Golf lover? Rome is home to no fewer than 14 courses! Book a room a short putt away from the fairway at the Aldrovandi Villa Borghese. Oozing refined opulence in private gardens with an inviting pool, its marble bathrooms add dashes of grandeur and grace – golf widows won’t be disappointed!
Quick Stops
Coffee - Cappuccino … espresso? Coffee’s a ritual in Italy and a sophisticated café society ensures glittering cafés a-go-go. Kick off with a gran caffè speciale at Caffè Sant’ Eustachio amid the locals and famous faces or chill out in lively Piazza della Rotonda’s, Piazza Navona’s or Piazza di Spagna’s hot coffee pit stops.
Ice cream and chocolate - Don’t miss a scoop of glorious gelato at historic landmark Antico Caffè Greco (former haunt of Keats and Casanova), Ciampini or Giolitti – the coolest ice-cream parlour in town. Try the legendary tartufo ice from I Tre Scalini. Chocoholics delight at historic chocolate-makers La Bottega del Cioccolato, while Babington’s tearoom serves a fine English cuppa alongside the Spanish Steps.
An aperitivo - Join the city’s buzzing aperitivo scene and work up an appetite at Harry’s Bar, Via Veneto, which gained international fame in Fellini’s classic 1960 La Dolce Vita film. The photo museum offers vivid flashbacks to the golden era when famous faces flocked here, such as Sinatra singing at the piano.
Shop-till-you-drop One of the world’s greatest fashion capitals, where trends are set and exclusive boutiques offer the latest designer must-haves, whether you have a passion for fashion or a penchant for antiques, you’ll find high-end Italian and foreign retail outlets and trendy boutiques galore …
From luxury labels to the very best in jewellery, Via Condotti boasts more than enough big-name brands to keep even the most discerning shopper happy. The equivalent of Bond Street or Fifth Avenue for high fashion, after requisite stops at Valentino, Prada, Gucci or Cartier, you can give your credit card another workout on cutting-edge fashions in the ‘Trident’, where the three main shopping streets, Via Condotti/Via Borgogna/Via Frattin, meet. A short catwalk strut away, Via Veneto is also great for designer-wear, while Via del Corso is home to Swarovski Crystal, appealing to affluent young shopaholics.
Navigate narrow streets, meandering through the charming, cobbled microcosm of Monti, with one-of-a-kind boutiques showcasing everything from antiques to the avant-garde. Rome’s young fashion crowd hangs out here for jewellery, artisan-made shoes and bespoke fashion. Grand department store La Rinascente (based in both Piazza Fiume and Via del Tritone) is a one-stop-shop for upscale cosmetics, jewellery, clothing, gastronomy and home furnishings, and offers wonderful windows to Rome’s glorious history from its gallery.
Wine and Dine Food is a serious subject for Italians, and pasta remains the mainstay of meals, with a type for every day of the year! Traditional Roman cooking is conservative, rustic and deceptively simple. Must-tries include gnocchi, spaghetti alle vongole (classic with baby clam sauce) and baccalà alla romana (fried salt cold), followed by Italy’s most famous dessert, a terrific tiramisu! Ideal for romantic candlelit dinners, the labyrinth of lanes of Testaccio vie with fashionable Trastevere’s narrow cobbled streets as the foodie’s place to eat and be seen.
Friday is fish day, so ‘seafood and eat it’ at one of Rome’s famous fish restaurants, steeped in culinary heritage. La Rosetta, reputed to be Rome’s finest, also serves superlative wines. The menu depends on the day’s catch. For riverside dining with celebrity appeal, high-class Assunta has a seriously stunning setting, while the aptly named FISH (Fine International Seafood House) enjoys rave reviews.
Restaurants in Rome are among the finest in Italy, with many open-air, top-class institutions set in the shadows of famous landmarks, providing alluring, unique al fresco ambiances for sampling national and worldwide cuisine in this gastronomic melting pot.
Aroma at Palazzo Manfredi - Enjoy Michelin-starred cuisine on a private terrace with some of the best views of Rome’s ancient Colosseum. Roman-born Chef Di Lorio has been Aroma’s head chef since it opened in 2010. Here you can sample quintessential Roman cuisine with contemporary influences and exquisite presentation.
Rome Cavalieri, Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts - Savour decadent dining, the cityscape and over 53,000 wines at Rome Cavalieri, Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts’ three-Michelin-starred terrace restaurant La Pergola, presided over by German genius Heinz Beck.
Hotel Baglioni - Hotel Baglioni’s refined Brunello creates imaginative cocktails and dishes up delectable recipes.
Some others also worth a visit - Hotel Atlante’s smart roof-garden restaurant, Les Etoiles, affords unbeatable vistas. Sensational at sunset, the private terrace at Il Palazzetto is a hip ’n’ happening haunt. Dal Bolognese nearby offers upmarket northern Italian fare to a glamorous crowd.