EnzoRamella
Rome of of
Lakes
eXperience
The Guide
www.lakesofrome.com
Disclaimer: every information contained in this guide have been checked before printing, however they may no longer be correct at the time you read them: you must always check the information you read in this guide before using them. Please consider that the charts shown in this guide do never represent the complete overview neither of public transport system nor of single lines: we show you only the parts both of public transport system and single lines that we consider to be of your interest. Prices, schedules and opening times may change or conditions may be applied to them. Trains per hour link information refers to peak hours on weekdays: the frequency may change over the year, week and day. All distances and travel times are calculated from town’s center to town’s center by Google Map™: travel times may differ if you’re reaching destinations scattered throughout a municipality’s territory. Distance to/from airports are calculated in the same way (airport to town’s center and vice versa). Both author and publisher of this guide disclaim any and every liability for damage, inconvenience and discomfort that may result to property and persons from incorrect or no longer updated information. Reading this guide imply that you accept these conditions. The same terms and conditions apply to the Internet site www.lakesofrome.com.
Printed with the contribution of
This brochure is
Enzo Ramella
Lakes of Rome eXperience. The Guide. Ass.Terre degli Orsini - Contea Pisciarelli via Olmata Tre Cancelli 7 - 00062 Bracciano (RM) 1st edition June 2015 Printed in Neustadt an der Aisch (DE) by Onlineprinters GmbH
Terre degli Orsini
Experience Lakes of Rome Choose your accomodation Agriturismo La Gismonda
Bracciano
Agriturismo L. B. Stud
Bracciano
Bella di casa
Bracciano
Borgo Paola
Bracciano
Terrazza di S. Clemente
Bracciano
BeB Antico Casale La Riccia
Anguillara
info@gismonda.it www.gismonda.it Agriturismo La Gismonda +39 06.99815284 / +39 329.4237639
agrilbstud@gmail.com www.agriturismolbstud.com giusepperre64 +39 06.9988554 / +39 333.2302194
infobelladicasa@gmail.com www.belladicasabracciano.it Bella di Casa Apartments +39 338.3172394 / +39 333.9404300
borgopaola@yahoo.com www.borgopaola.it Borgo Paola Casa Vacanze +39 06.99804569 / +39 347.2952984
ingrid.basile@gmail.com www.terrazzadisanclemente.com La Terrazza di San Clemente +39 339.6034325
ingrid.basile@gmail.com www.anticocasalelariccia.com La Terrazza di San Clemente +39 339.6034325
via della Cisterna, 6
via Baglione, 13
via C. Cattaneo, 1
via del Micciaro, 11b
via San Clemente, 14
via Casale della Riccia, 5
Experience Lakes of Rome Enjoy your meal
Bracciano
via della Collegiata 4/10
Al Castello Restaurant
+39 06.99.81.52.72 +39 347.91.54.001 (closed on Monday)
The excellent restaurant under the castle’s wall
Trevignano p. Vittorio Emanuele III 15/20
FUUD
RISTOPIZZA +39 06.99.97.548 +39 347.18.57.246 (closed on Monday)
The excellent restaurant along the lake promenade
Bracciano
via Circumlacuale 27d
Viva
Sporting!
+39 320.87.60.696 +39 340.28.75.063 (open every day)
The excellent restaurant on the beach
Taxi is a way to get from point A to point B. But in Lakes of Rome TAXIs are much more: they are a way to know the territory and explore its coolest stuff without any worries and thoughts. They are the promoters of the project Carpe Diem. Book 1, 2 or 3 TAXIs (up to 18 passengers) and ask for Carpe Diem: the taxidrivers will organize you a tour around Lakes of Rome, accompanied by a licensed guide, even on boat. All of our TAXIs can carry up to 6 passengers. All the drivers speak English. See the Men첫 card to know prices and avaiable itinerary.
More info
TAXI 1 - Angelo +39 345.344.9836
TAXI 2 - Roberto +39 338.817.4480
TAXI 3 - Mauro +39 329.425.1065
How to get to Lakes of Rome
Landing at Fiumicino Airport (FCO)
Roma Termini
Roma Ostiense
Roma Trastevere
Fiumicino Airport FL1
Legend Train Station Rome - Fiumicino Airport Railways Rome - Viterbo Railway 4 trains per hour link Rome 2 trains per hour link Rome 1 train per hour link Rome max journey time to travel from/to Fiumicino Airport
FL3
name/number of the railroad line
La Storta
up to 1h 35’
Cesano di Roma
up to 1h 40’
Anguillara Sabazia
up to 2h 00’
Bracciano
up to 2h 05’
Manziana
up to 2h 25’
Oriolo Romano
up to 2h 30’
to Viterbo FL3
Disclaimer: The chart does not show the entire line, but it contains only the informations that we consider interesting for travelers heading to Lakes of Rome. The max journey times are calculated by the official website www.trenitalia.com, and represent the max times, including the interchange waiting time, on weekdays at peak hours, assuming you take the first available train at interchange depot. At the station of Roma Trastevere, or Roma Ostiense, you have to get on the train to Bracciano or Viterbo. Conversely, for the return trip, you have to look for the trains to Roma Ostiense or Roma Tiburtina.
How to get to Lakes of Rome
Landing at Ciampino Airport (CIA)
MA
Ciampino
Ciampino Airport
FL4
Anagnina
Ladispoli
MA
FL5
Roma Termini
FL3 to Viterbo
MA Oriolo R.
Manziana
Bracciano
Anguillara
Valle Aurelia
Legend Train/Metro Station
Bus Station
Railway
4 trains per hour link Rome 2 trains per hour link Rome 1 train per hour link Rome
Metro Road
MA
Battistini
How to get to Lakes of Rome Landing at Fiumicino Airport (FCO)
Landing at Ciampino Airport (CIA)
Fiumicino Airport
Ciampino Airport
Bracciano
42’
Anguillara Sabazia
47’
Anguillara Sabazia
45’
Trevignano Romano
53’
Manziana
50’
Bracciano
55’
Trevignano Romano
54’
Manziana
1h 04’
Oriolo Romano
54’
Oriolo Romano
1h 07’
Canale Monterano
55’
Canale Monterano
1h 08’
70€ up to 4 passengers
80€ up to 4 passengers
Do not take chances with the taximeter: save money traveling at flat rates by
Lakes of Rome official TAXIs. TAXI 1 - Angelo +39 345.344.9836
TAXI 2 - Roberto +39 338.817.4480
TAXI 3 - Mauro +39 329.425.1067
Disclaimer: Travel times are calculated by Google Map™. The prices refers to a one way Bracciano - Airport or vice versa, in the daytime. Call to confirm the quote.
Public transportation’s network to and from Rome FL3
FL5
Viterbo
Civitavecchia
Vetralla Capranica Oriolo R. Manziana
2
5'
Bracciano
35' 30'
Anguillara S.
Ladispoli
40'
Cesano di R.
P La Storta M A Valle Aurelia Roma S. Pietro Roma Trastevere Roma Ostiense
64 8
MB
Legend 4 trains per hour link Rome 2 trains per hour link Rome 1 trains per hour link Rome station in Rome's city center travel by car
30'
car travel time
station M A Interchange train - subway line A station M B Interchange train - subway line B station 64 Interchange train - bus line n. 64
P
Interchange station train - parking
Disclaimer: the schemes do not contain the entire network, but show only the stops that we consider useful for the tourists. Car travel times are calculated by Google Maps™. The number of trains per hour link refers to peak time: alway check the informations at stations or on the official websites www.trenitalia.com and www.atac.roma.it
MA
Baroque Rome
Battistini
Valle Aurelia Cipro Ottaviano
train to: Cesano di Roma - Bracciano - Viterbo Vatican Museum* St. Peter*
Lepanto Flaminio Spagna Barberini Repubblica Termini Vittorio Emanuele
piazza del Popolo - Villa Borghese - via del Corso piazza di Spagna - TrinitĂ dei Monti - via del Corso* via Veneto - Fontana di Trevi* Baths of Diocletian - via Nazionale
MB
train to: Ladispoli - Civitavecchia
S. Maria Maggiore* - Porta Maggiore*
Manzoni San Giovanni
Anagnina
S. Giovanni in Laterano Disclaimer: The chart does not show the entire line, but only the stops that may be of interest to you, indicating, for each of them, the main monuments: those marked by an asterisk require a short walk to be reached.
Bus line St. Peter
Roma S. Pietro train to: Cesano di Roma Bracciano - Viterbo train to: Ladispoli
Castel S. Angelo
Piazza Navona
Campo de’ Fiori
Pantheon
Largo Argentina
Piazza Venezia
Quirinale
Roma Termini
8
Tram line Casaletto
Roma Trastevere train to: Cesano di Roma Bracciano - Viterbo train to: Ladispoli
Villa Sciarra
Trastevere
Tiber Island*
Porticus Octaviae*
Largo Argentina*
Piazza Venezia
Disclaimer: The chart does not show the entire line, but only the stops that may be of interest to you, The sites marked by an asterisk require a short walk to be reached.
MB
Ancient Rome
Rebibbia
Termini
MA
Cavour
via dei Fori Imperiali* - Basilica of Saint Mary Major*
Colosseo Circo Massimo
Piramide
train to: Ladispoli - Civitavecchia
Coliseum - Imperial Forums - Domus Aurea Arch of Costantine - Palatine Circus Maximus - Baths of Caracalla* Temple of Vesta* - S. Maria in Cosmedin* Pyramid of Cestius - porta S. Paoloo train to: Cesano di Roma - Bracciano - Viterbo train to: Ladispoli - Civitavecchia train to: Ostia Antica - Ostia Lido
Garbatella Basilica S. Paolo
Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls train to: Ostia Antica - Ostia Lido
Laurentina
Disclaimer: The chart does not show the entire line, but only the stops that may be of interest to you, indicating, for each of them, the main monuments: those marked by an asterisk require a short walk to be reached.
Going to Rome by train: find your station Navigate to (GPS)
BRACCIANO go: from 05.45 back: up to 22.05 every: 30’-60’
several hard cheap
ANGUILLARA go: from 05.57 back: up to 22.05 every: 30’-60’
several medium cheap
LA STORTA go: from 06.10 back: up to 22.05 every: 15’-30’
a lot easy very cheap
LADISPOLI go: from 05.30 back: up to 23.38 every: 15’-30’
few hard affordable
Disclaimer: “go” means the first train to Rome; “back” means the last train from Roma Ostiense (for Roma S. Pietro add 8’, for Valle Aurelia add 13’). Always check at the stations or on www.trenitalia.it
App advisor Free Apps you may consider installing on your smartphone
Probus Roma
is the application for getting around Rome by public transport: it lets you know in real time the fastest routes, the waiting time for the bus, and the latest news on urban mobility.
Pronto Treno
is the official Trenitalia’s app that let’s you see the train times, buy tickets, edit your purchases, check train punctuality and view departures boards, both on local and national trains.
Prezzi Benzina
identifies, based on you location (GPS), the gas station the closest to you, and the cheapest one too, showing you the price table. And once you’ve chosen the distributor it loads the target on the smartphone navsat.
Aeroporti di Roma
is the official app of Aeroporti di Roma, that shows, in real time, the flight status of Fiumicino and Ciampino airports. It updates in real time on Terminal and gate, planned and actual time, number of conveyor belt for baggage claim.
Disclaimer: apps, trademarks and images belong to their respective owners; we are not in any way connected with them: we just want to suggest some apps that we consider to be of interest to you. Read the information in the app store before downloading, and install the app at your own risk: we accept no liability for any accident, loss or damage to both your smartphone and datas.
eXperience Table of contents
Legend
Lakes of Rome locations you can reach in less than 60 minutes of driving from any town in Lakes of Rome
53
M ont 52 efi asc one
Bagnoregio
locations you can reach in less than 90 minutes of driving from any town in Lakes of Rome
Bomarzo
51
Bracciano 10
Soriano
Capra
rola 40
Vetralla 39
Fa di Rbrica oma
41 Civita Castellana Capra Ronciglio ne nica 43 o n 28 a 25 r a rb 22 Ba Sutri 24 19 Bassano 26 Nepi Oriolo 31 14 o n 10 igna Campagnano Trev 29
12 zia na
an
M
18
Ca
e 35
mier Allu
vec
36 chia
ita Civ
Tolfa
n 13 ale
Vej a
no
Mazzano 32
33 Calcata
Blera 20
38
lo anel Vign 42
45
Tarquinia
pages’ number
50
Viterbo
Tuscania 44
municipality
Bracciano
ta a Sanarinell M 34
2
Cerveteri
15
Lad
isp
17 oli
Anguillara
8
municipality
point of interest page number
(Castello Orsini-Odescalchi)
Opening:
Tue - Sat 10.00 - 12.00 15.00 - 17.00 Sunday 10.00 - 12.30 15.00 - 18.00
winter time
Bracciano’s castle
summer time
Bracciano Tue - Sat 10.00 - 12.00 15.00 - 17.00
information on opening and closing times
Sunday 10.00 - 12.30 15.00 - 18.00
The construction of the castle began in 1470 by order of Napoleone Orsini, lord of Bracciano, and is completed by his son Gentil Virginio in 1485. Previously the site was occupied by a quadrangular t ower, presumably commissioned by the Ghibelline family of Prefetti di Vico (who owned Bracciano between the 13th and 14th c.), later incorporated into the new building. Over the centuries the castle, designed b y Francesco d i Giorgio Martini, underwent p rofound c hanges. F or its s trategic position it w as o ften at t he center o f disputes among the most important Roman noble families. Pope Alexander VI, motivated by a deep resentment towards the Orsini, in devoted to the woman, who shows moments of late medieval court life associated with the passage o f time and t he seasons, and the Antoniazzo R omano’s fresco w ith t he triumph of Gentile Virginio Orsini. At the end of the 16th c., for the marriage of Isabella de’ Medici and Paolo Giordano Orsini (1st duke of B racciano), Taddeo and Federico Zuccari painted several r ooms, including t he one that in 1481 was home to the Pope. In 1696 Flavio Orsini sold the castle to Livio I Odescalchi. In 1952 t he castle became a museum. On Saturday and Sunday you can combine a visit to t he Museum of t he D uomo. The Civic Museum, housed i n the former Augustinian c onvent of Santa Maria Novella, is worth a visit.
Legend the gold medal indicates the best experiences: don’t miss them! the road indicates a fast experience you may consider on the road to another destination.
Bracciano, Piazza Mazzini Navigate to (GPS)
Castle: +39 0699804340
Web Site
address loaded in the QR code institutional phone number scan with your smartphone to load the target in the navigator: it’ll send you to the parking lot closest to the point of interest.
scan with your smartphone to load more updated information
1
Lake Bracciano (Lago di Bracciano)
Bracciano &Anguillara &Trevignano
Lake Bracciano (or Lake Sabatino, from latin Lacus Sabatinus), is a volcanic lake situated north of Rome. It has an area of 57.5 km², the maximum depth is 160 meters (525 ft). On the shores of the lake there are three towns: Bracciano, on the western side, Anguillara, on the south eastern, and Trevignano, on the northern one. The lake is at the center of Regional Nature Park of Bracciano-Martignano, an area of great naturalistic value, ideal for lovers of hiking and cycling. The waters, off-limits to motor boats, are clear and clean (the lake is a water reserve of Rome) and ideal for water sports: the lush vegetation on the shores and the numerous archaeological sites which lies at a shallow depth underwater, makes SUP (stand up paddle) and canoeing unique experiences. Many sandy or grassy beaches surround the lake, both free and equipped. A boat in service from spring to summer links the three towns and the Air Force Museum (four stops in all) via the lake: a nice way to explore the territory. During the day there are several shuttle buses that link Bracciano to the lake promenade. largest free and sandy beach: Vigna di Valle’s Navigate to (GPS)
Anguillara, via Lungolago delle Muse
Web Site
(Castello Orsini-Odescalchi)
Opening:
Tue - Sat 10.00 - 12.00 15.00 - 17.00 Sunday 10.00 - 12.30 15.00 - 18.00
winter time
Bracciano’s castle
Bracciano summer time
2
Tue - Sat 10.00 - 12.00 15.00 - 17.00 Sunday 10.00 - 12.30 15.00 - 18.00
The construction of the castle began in 1470 by order of Napoleone Orsini, lord of Bracciano, and is completed by his son Gentil Virginio in 1485. Previously the site was occupied by a quadrangular tower, presumably commissioned by the Ghibelline family of Prefetti di Vico (who owned Bracciano between the 13th and 14th c.), later incorporated into the new building. Over the centuries the castle, designed by Francesco di Giorgio Martini, underwent profound changes. For its strategic position it was often at the center of disputes among the most important Roman noble families. Pope Alexander VI, motivated by a deep resentment towards the Orsini, in 1496 confiscated the castle. These were the years of the first pictorial: the famous cycle devoted to the woman, who shows moments of late medieval court life associated with the passage of time and the seasons, and the Antoniazzo Romano’s fresco with the triumph of Gentile Virginio Orsini. At the end of the 16th c., for the marriage of Isabella de’ Medici and Paolo Giordano Orsini (1st duke of Bracciano), Taddeo and Federico Zuccari painted several rooms, including the one that in 1481 was home to the Pope. In 1696 Flavio Orsini sold the castle to Livio I Odescalchi. In 1952 the castle became a museum. On Saturday and Sunday you can combine a visit to the Museum of the Duomo. The Civic Museum, housed in the former Augustinian convent of Santa Maria Novella, is worth a visit. Bracciano, Piazza Mazzini Navigate to (GPS)
Castle: +39 0699804340
Web Site
Opening:
(Museo Civico di Bracciano)
Tue - Fri 17.00 - 20.00 Sunday 10.00 - 13.00 17.00 - 20.00
winter time
Municipal Museum
Bracciano summer time
3
Tue - Fri 09.00 - 13.00 Sunday 10.00 - 18.00
The Museo Civico di Bracciano is based at the former Augustinian convent of Santa Maria Novella. Along with the municipal historical archive, located in the same building, preserves the memory of the community of Bracciano and the roots of his identity. This justifies the exhibition criterion: collected works, in fact, bear witness to the life of Bracciano over the centuries, offering the visitor an image of everyday life rather than the extraordinary episode. The museum is divided into five halls: the fist one introduces the museum and the community of Bracciano, understood as the institution from which it derives the City. The maps show the land and the old industrial site while artworks tell us about the institutional life of the city and some local personalities. In hall B are exposed Etruscan found in the territory of Bracciano, documenting the presence of settlements in the era prior to the Romanization of Etruria. The hall C exhibits of Roman and early Christian, some of which come from the important archaeological site of Clodii Forum. In hall D are exposed artworks made for major local clients, both public and private, were born in the town: valuable the statue Venere e Adone from Cristoforo Stati (18th c.), considered one of the masterpieces of Lazio’s mannerism. The hall E exhibits objects of worship, liturgical and architectural remains from the Church of Santa Maria Novella. On Saturday and Sunday you may consider a visit to the Museum of the Duomo. Bracciano, via Umberto I, 5 Navigate to (GPS)
+39 06.99805106
Web Site
4
Air Force Museum
(Museo dell’Aeronautica)
Bracciano Opening:
summer time Tue - Sun 09.00 - 17.30
winter time Tue - Sun 09.00 - 17.00
The first aviation exhibition to be put on display in Italy was mounted in 1913 in Castel S. Angelo in Rome. In 1923 the Air Force had been established as one of the Italian Armed Forces. In 1939 the exhibition was located in Lungotevere delle Vittorie. From 1950 onwards, the idea of setting up an Historical Aviation Museum surfaced again: as a result, the aviation material held by the Air Force was moved virtually entirely to the airport at Vigna di Valle where a centre for the collection of historical and scientific material relating to flight had already been set up. Nowadays the Museum is located on the south shores of Lake Bracciano where in 1904 the first Experimental Aviation Yard was established, and where in 1908 the first Italian military airship, the N.1, was built. The Museum is set amongst the buildings and structures of the seaplane base, today the only site of this kind where the typical architecture of an Aviation centre that evolved from the birth of aviation to the 1960’s are preserved intact. In its 13,000 sq. it houses over sixty aircraft and a vast collection of engines as well as mementos of all types that tell, in chronological order, the history of military flying in Italyand of the men who lived it and shaped it. The Museum tour winds through the various sectors dedicated to the Pioneers, the Airships, WWI, Nobile’s epic Polar Flights, the Great Flights in Mass Formation, the Schneider Trophy, the period between the wars, WWII and the post-war revival. Bracciano, via Circumlacuale Navigate to (GPS)
+39 06.99887509
musexpo@tiscali.it
Web Site
Archeonatura Antica Pisciarelli
5
Bracciano Opening:
free access
(Pisciarelli, hamlet of Bracciano)
Three historical aqueducts (from the Romans up to XVIII sec.), a great and charming ancient cistern, divided into three environments and, once, supported by 16 columns, several water intakes, a Roman sepulcher and a road (Via Clodia), a bridge with which you can cross a crystal clear stream, the ruins of a church of the 16th c., an old iron foundry, some abandoned farmhouses, and a cave used in early Christian: all this artifacts are hidden in the wood of Pisciarelli, along a network of trails that’s ideal for a walk or a bike ride. You may choose how long your route are going to be, and how much time are you going to spend on it, enjoying the archaeology, the history and the nature. Let a scholar who has professionally studied this monuments guides you in the tour. At the end a delicious tasting of local products will wait for you in a agriturismo nearby. Call +39 06.99815284. Bracciano, via Olmata Tre Cancelli Navigate to (GPS)
Ask for a guide: +39 06.99815284
Web Site
Viva Sporting!
6
Bracciano Opening:
May - September every day 08.00 am - 02.00pm
(beach - bar- restaurant)
The Vivasporting is located on the shores of the Bracciano Lake, it’s a natural oasis just a few steps away from the historical town. It’s one of the most saught-after beaches of the lake, where you can spend thoughtless days sunbathing and jumping in the clear water. Our restaurant is open for lunch and dinner. We propose fine taditional cuisine with natural and local dishes. Most of the vegetables we serve are taken from our garden, from the tomatoes to the spices wich you can find planted on every corner of the location. Even the different types of cheese and meat is taken from local producers. Later in the afternoon you can join us sipping an aperitif, which is one of the most fascinating moments here at the Viva: we use fresh fruit and create many different and innovative types of cocktails, all served while admiring the beautiful sunset on the lake. Many courses take place at Vivasporting: Canoeing, Windsurfing, Tango, Zumba, Pilates, Volleyball, Salsa, etc... On summer evenings you can join various events like Swing and Jazz sessions, theater performances and also Disco evenings, there’s always something going on! Bracciano, via Circumlacuale, 27d Navigate to (GPS)
+39 320.87.60.696 - 340.28.75.063
Web Site
7
Adriani’s dairy
(Caseificio Adriani)
Bracciano &Anguillara Opening:
Mon - Sat store 08.30 - 13.00 16.30 - 20.00 dairy 08.30 - 13.00 16.00 - 20.00 weekly rest on Thursday afternoon
At the time of Granpa Serafino, shepherds and cheese makers, those who possessed sheeps, had to walk from Abruzzo to the Campagna Romana (transhumance): they left the Apennines in September, when it was time of sfigliatura (when the lambs were born), and in the mountain the grassland was depleted. They arrived in Rome within a week (the most far-sighted reached Lake Bracciano, where the microclimate is ideal for clover, sulla and oat), where they found the new grasses. The shepherds curdled the milk in the huts where they lived during the winter, and the next morning they departed by vignarola, a long horse-drawn cart, to go and sell their products to the citizens of Rome. This ancient story continues, between the tradition and the latest technology, in the Adriani’s Dairy: our products are recognized at the highest level of quality, so as to have won, several times, the Premio Roma. Our pride are the Serafino, a caciotta from sheep, and the Caciocardo, a cheese made by vegetable rennet obtained from wild thistle, following the recipe of Columella’s De Re Rustica. Adriani’s store: Bracciano, via Volpi, 19 Navigate to (GPS)
Dairy: Anguillara, via Casale S. Angelo km 16
Web Site
8
Anguillara Sabazia
Town and museums
Anguillara Opening: Museum of rural culture Museum of Neolithic
on public holidays 09.00 - 12.00 15.00 - 19.00 Tuesday to Sunday 10.00 - 13.00 16.00 - 20.00
Anguillara is a charming town perched on a promontory lying on the lake. The site has been inhabited since the Neolithic, as evidenced by the discovery of a submerged village near the area known as La Marmotta: at Centro Espositivo del Neolitico di Anguillara Sabazia (Via Anguillarese, 147) you can see a canoe of 9.50 meters (31 ft) carved out of a single tree trunk. The existence of mineral water springs (still in use today), aroused the interest of the Romans: the ruins of Villa of AQVA CLAVDIA (by the emperor Claudius) are located in the homonymous archaeological and nature park, close to the modern plant. From the same period was the villa of Rutilia Polla, mentioned in the Digest (a compendium of Roman law compiled by order of the emperor Justinian I): some ruins lie underwater close to the modern pier. The so-called Mura di Santo Stefano (photo 2) is a monumental example of rustic Roman villa (2nd c.), later converted into a church. The medieval town dates back to the 11th c., when it was in the hands of Anguillara’s family; at the end of the 15th c. it became a feud of the Orsini’s family, which built the homonymous tower, which today houses the museum of rural culture. The 16th c. Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta is located on top of town, in a strategic location that allows you to enjoy a superb view of the lake: it houses the impressive organ built by Domenico Alari (19th c.), and several sacred paintings. Anguillara Sabazia Navigate to (GPS)
Tourist Office: +39 06.9968415
Web Site
9
Lake Martignano
Anguillara Opening:
free access
The small Lake Martignano (2.44 sq km, 0,94 sq mi) lies on the east side of Lago di Bracciano, where it occupies the crater of an ancient volcano (from the Sabatino’s volcanic system). In Roman times the lake was known as Alsietinus Lacus: in 2 BC Augustus built an aqueduct that carried the water to Rome (in Trastevere), to feed the naumachia (a place where naval battles could be staged). The course of the aqueduct, which was mainly subterranean, is practically unknown. In the 19° c. a new pipe was built to feed the Acqua Paola, the aqueduct wanted by Pope Paul V at the begin of the 17° c.: few ruins of both Roman and modern aqueducts lie on the south side of the lake. Nowadays the lake, divided between the municipalities of Rome (enclave of Polline), Anguillara and Campagnano, is an attractive tourist destination due to the clean bathing water, the green and peaceful beaches (both free and private) and the existence of bathing facilities. If you like walking and biking tours you’ll find 8 km (5 mi) of bike paths network, which links the lake to Anguillara Sabazia by dirt roads, through the best environments of Bracciano Martignano Nature Reserve.
Anguillara, via Comunale Martignano Navigate to (GPS)
Tourist Office: +39 06.9968415
Web Site
Opening: Etruscan Museum
Town, castle, museum
Tue - Fri 10.00 - 13.00 15.00 - 17.00 Saturday 09.00 - 13.00 16.00 - 20.00 Sunday 09.00 - 13.00
winter time
Trevignano Romano
Trevignano summer time
10
Tue - Fri 10.00 - 13.00 15.00 - 17.00 Saturday 09.00 - 13.00 15.00 - 19.00 Sunday 09.00 - 13.00
Trevignano, the smallest of the lakeside towns, runs entirely along the shoreline. Its lakeside promenade is long and well mantained: this makes Trevignano the best choice for a nice walk. Archeology buffs will find it very interesting the small Etruscan museum housed in the Town Hall, where artifacts from the surrounding area are on display: the most importantare the flabellum (a fan used by those who exercised power), the chariots, and the skeleton of the warrior (8th c. BC). On this side of the lake the history began early: scholars believe that stood here Sabate, a proto-Etruscan city which disappeared swallowed by the waters, as told by the the ancient greek geographer Strabo. On top of Trevignano stands the medieval fortress, which you can reach through a short climbing path. The castle was built at the beginning of 13th c. by order of Pope Innocent III; later it was made more powerful by the Orsini. The castle was destroyed in 1497 by soldiers of the Pope Alexander VI, during the war against the Lords of Bracciano, and never rebuilt. There’s no reason to skip the visit: on site you’ll enjoy both the impressive ruins and one of the best view of the lake. The Church of St. Mary Assumed into Heaven is worth a visit: it was erected in the 16th c., on the foundations of an ancient religious building in Gothic style. The bell tower was formerly a tower of the fortress. Trevignano Romano Navigate to (GPS)
Museum: +39 06.999120201
Web Site
11
Trevignano Vino
Trevignano Opening:
(Winery)
Sun 10.30 - 13.00 Mon - Sat 09.00 - 13.00 15.00 - 18.30
On the hills of Lake Bracciano, on the outskirts of Trevignano Romano, it is the winery Trevignano Vino, which it was founded by family Capitani (1974), who planted native vines like Trebbiano, Greco, Malvasia, Sangiovese and Montepulciano, that best fit the volcanic soil. In those years the winery began production of Primo di Trevignano, a still white wine, Bianco del Lago, a lively wine excellent as an aperitif, Rosso del Lago, a well balanced red wine, Rosè il Lago, a Sangiovese vinified in white, lively and lovely. Later Trevignano Vino started the production of I.G.P. Lazio wines: the Merlot, that shows all the characteristics of the vine, the Syrah, that is vinified in steel and show the typical spicy notes, the Syrah Barricato, refined 8 months in oak barrels, and the Sauvignon, a well structured wine. Since 2009 Trevignano Vino produces also the extra virgin olive oil: pleasant and delicate, it has the flavor of our territory. By distilling Sangiovese’s grapes a white Acquavite is produced: the taste is smooth and enveloping. In the farm shop, which is immersed in the vineyards, you can learn about and buy a selection of local handicrafts, that are great paired with our wines. Capitani’s family is pleased to welcome in the farm shop the travelers, tourists and customers who want to taste the wines, find out the pairings, and know the secrets of winemaking. Trevignano R., via di Monterosi, 113 Navigate to (GPS)
+39 338.16.15.092 - 06.99.82.56.12
Web Site
12
Caldara’s natural monument
Manziana Opening:
free access
(Monumento naturale della Caldara)
The village of Manziana is home to two very interesting biological and geological sites: Macchia Grande, about 580 ha (1.430 ac) of Mediterranean maquis, in which a number of historical and archaeological sites are hiding, and Caldara’s natural monument. Caldara is a circular depression, probably a small crater (a caldera, hence the name), evidence of the presence of the ancient volcano Sabatino, which 600.000 years ago occupied the entire rift valley between Monti della Tolfa and Soratte. In Caldara there are three distinctive natural environments: the swamp of sulphurous waters, the birch grove and the peat bog. At the heart of Caldara there is a bog in which the water gurgling in various springs as a result of the gaseous emissions of sulfur dioxide: the thick layer of mud that has been accumulated has generated the swamp. The water is rich in sulfur compounds, thatis recognizable for having a characteristicodour. The white birch (Betula pendula) is a species that lives in cold climates, in the tundra: at these latitudes is extremely unusual.via It could be a wreck post-glaManziana, della Caldara cial: the birches, perfectly acclimatized, would have remained in this area until the present day thanks to the special microclimate. Other trees in the area are the black alders, the oaks, the Montpellier maples, the European crab apple, the medlar, the Hop Hornbeam, the Field Elm, the blackthorn, and many shrubs. Manziana, via della Caldara Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 06.9962980
Web Site
13
Monterano Nature Reserve
Canale Monterano
(Riserva Naturale di Monterano)
Opening:
free access
The Monterano Nature Reserve covers just over 10.8 km² (4 sq miles) with a great variety of habitats and an abundant biodiversity: wooded hills, volcanic gorges, meadows, pastures and a river, the Mignone (classified Site of Community Importance by EU). In the park there are numerous attractions: waterfalls, abandoned sulfur mines, lunar landscapes, a reproduction of the typical hut of the butteri (the cowboys of the Maremma), a botanical garden and many Etruscan sites. The most impressive place, however, is the abandoned town of Monterano. The site was inhabited since Bronze Age; later became an Etruscan site, until Rome conquered it: during this period was known as Manturanum. At the beginning the early Middle Ages became a Diocese, sign indicating the importance of the town at that time. The most impressive building is the castle, probably dating back to 8th c. In the 17th c. Gian Lorenzo Bernini redesigned the fortress transforming it into a ducal palace, decorating the outer wall of Piazza Lunga with a fountain on which dominates the statue of a lion, hence the name of the Lion Fountain. Contemporary is the Bernini’s convent of San Bonaventura, visible today in a flat area outside of the village, at the center of which emerges the octagonal fountain. The aqueduct was built in 17th c. The village was depopulated during the Napoleonic domination. Canale Monterano Navigate to (GPS)
Nature Reserve: +39 06.9962724
Web Site
Oriolo
14
Palazzo Altieri Beech forest Parco della Mola
Opening: Palazzo Altieri
Tue - Sun 08.30 - 19.30
Beech forest
free access
Parco della Mola
free access
The village of Oriolo was founded in the second half of the 16th c., under the Lord Georgio Santacroce: he, after having deforested part of the large Selva di Manziana, invited to his lands farmers and foresters (Capannari) from Tuscany and Umbria. He built the baronial mansion (Palazzo Altieri), today the main historical attraction of Oriolo. It was built between 1578 and 1585. It is a classic example of 16th c. Roman villa, with Mannerist influences. The palace reached its current form in the 17th - 18th c. by Altieri’s family, under the direction of Carlo Fontana. The interior is divided into large rooms, decorated with stucco, frescoes and paintings of good quality, some attributed to the school of Taddeo Zuccari. The palace is home to the Galleria Altieri, a collection of oil paintings on canvas portraying in chronological order all the Popes who succeeded in history from St. Peter to Benedict XVI. Just outside the town you can see a beautiful beech forest still intact. It occupies a large area in the Monte Raschio, at an altitude of 450 mt. AMSL: despite the beech trees prefer higher altitudes, they have settled well here due to the special microclimate. The Parco della Mola is named after the gristmill, built in 1573, which used the waters of the river Mignone. In the park you can still see the canalization works, the weir, and some walls of tufa. A picturesque pond with a waterfall lies between marsh and riparian vegetation. The area is rich in springs. The park has been equipped with tables for dining. Oriolo Romano Navigate to (GPS)
Palazzo Altieri: +39 06.99837145
Web Site
15
Cerveteri Opening:
Etruscan necropolis of Banditaccia
Tue - Sun 08.30 - 18.30
There are many necropolis surrounding Cerveteri as the modern town is the heir of the Etruscan city Caere. The total area is 450 ha (1,110 ac), but can be visited only 10 ha of the Necropolis of Banditaccia, the only one open to the public. In 2004 the site has been declared by UNESCO a World Heritage Site. The tombs date from the 9th c. BC (Villanovan culture) to the late Etruscan age (3rd c. BC). The most ancient ones are in the shape of a pit, in which the ashes of thedead were housed; also simple potholes are present. From the Etruscan period are two types of tombs: the mounds and the so-called dice, the latter being simple square tombs built in long rows along roads. The mounds are circular structures built in tuff, and the interiors, carved from the living rock, house a reconstruction of the house of the dead, including a corridor (dromos), a central hall and several rooms. The most famous of these mounds is the so-called Tomba dei Rilievi. The most recent tombs date from the 3rd c. BC. Some of them are marked by external cippi, which are cylindrical for men, and in the shape of a small house for women. Some of the artifacts found here are on display at Museo Nazionale Cerite, housed in the Castle Ruspoli (in the historic center of Cerveteri). The museum is fully multimedial and interactive thanks to augmented reality. Cerveteri, piazzale della Necropoli Navigate to (GPS)
+39 06.9940001
Web Site
16
Cerveteri
Medieval hamlet of Ceri (Ceri, frazione di Cerveteri)
Opening:
free access
Ceri is a village in the municipality of Cervetri: it occupies a fortified plateau of tuff at a short distance from the town. It stands on an Etruscan settlement that was certainly an integral part of the ancient city of Caere. The hamlet as it looks today was founded when the inhabitants of Caere moved in looking for a better protected site: the documents attest it happens since 1054 A.D. To the new site they gave the name of Caere Novum (simply Ceri, not to be confused with Cerenova), in order to distinguish it from the ancient city, Caere Vetus (Cerveteri). In the same period, the castle was constructed for the defense of the town. You arrive in the village walking on a road carved deeply into the rock: after the double bend you arrive in the square where they are visible, still embedded in a home, the remains of a building in opus latericium (brickwork) that testifies the life of the site in Roman times. The main attraction is the Romanesque Church of the Madonna di Ceri (which was previously dedicated to St. Felice). The original building dates back to 11th c., built on the highest point of the settlement, presumably on an Etruscan sanctuary. In the church are preserved frescoes dated from the early 12th c. attributed to the art workshop which painted the frescoes of St. Clemente in Rome. This cycle is an important example of religious painting relating to the artistic program of the Gregorian Reform. Cerveteri, via di Ceri Navigate to (GPS)
Tourist Office: +39 06.99552637
Web Site
17
Torre Flavia Marina di S. Nicola Nature Reserve of Palo
Ladispoli Opening:
free access
Ladispoli is a modern town founded in 1888, which lies on the Mediterranean Sea. It occupies the area of the ancient Alsium, one of the ports of the Etruscan Cerveteri. Ladispoli has two interesting beaches: Marina di S. Nicola and Torre Flavia. The last one takes its name from the medieval coastal tower erected in the 16th c. over a Roman monument restored several times during the Middle Ages. The beach is a wide strip of sand that connects the WWF’s eponymous natural oasis to the tower. There are both free beach and bathing facilities. Marina di San Nicola is a seaside village located south of Ladispoli: the beach is popular with those seeking privacy and tranquility, the sea is ideal for those who practice surf. Close to the beach you will find the archaeological remains of a Roman villa traditionally identified as Villa of Pompey as alleged possession of Pompey the Great, but more likely the ruins of the ancient city of Alsium. A pedestrian promenade leads to the WWF’s Oasis of Palo Laziale. The vegetation of the oasis includes a hydric wood with pools and ponds, some areas with Mediterranean plants and a park with exotic plant species. Iinteresting is the Garden of Wild Orchids in the Mediterranean, a botanical garden located in the oasis. Very impressive is the coastal fortress of Palo, a private castle which is not open to the public, but that can be seen from the beach. The medieval fortified farmhouse of Montironi, located close an Etruscan site, worth a visit. Ladispoli Navigate to (GPS)
City Hall: +39 06.99231310
Web Site
Tolfa
18
Town Castle of Frangipane
Opening: Museum
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
15.00 - 18.00 10.00 - 13.00 15.00 - 18.00 10.00 - 13.00 15.00 - 18.00 10.00 - 13.00 15.00 - 18.00 10.00 - 13.00
Tolfa is a beautiful town of medieval origin, and the main center in the Monti della Tolfa, an extinct volcanic group between Civitavecchia and the Lake of Bracciano. The town stands on a rocky spur overlooking the valley, and is dominated by the picturesque ruins of the Castle of the Frangipane (half of the 15th c.). The oldest traces of settlement date back to Neolithic: there are also traces of the Bronze Age.The present-day village has developed in the Middle Ages around the fort that existed before the fortress, since 11th c., following the shape of the conical hill, which has given Tolfa the characteristic semicircular plan. All that remains of the castle, which was destroyed by the French under Napoleon in 1799, are the crenellated walls, the cylindrical keep built in square blocks of local stone, and part of the central body, where still remains a basement with loopholes and a large central hall with groin vault. On the site you will enjoy a splendid view of the Monti della Tolfa. Adjacent to the castle is picturesquely embedded the small Church of the Madonna della Rocca: inside is an altar piece attributed to the brothers Carracci (16th c.). In town there is the Church of Madonna della Sughera (built around a cork tree, where two hunters had the apparition of the Virgin Mary and the Child Jesus), whose construction (15th c.) was commissioned by Agostino Chigi. Inside there are the public library and the Civic Museum, which houses artifacts dating back to the Etruscan, Roman, Medieval and Modern times. Civic Museum: Tolfa, largo 15 marzo 1799 Navigate to (GPS)
Civic Museum: +39 0766.92127
Web Site
19
Town Castle
Vejano Opening:
free access
Vejano is small town in southern Tuscia, perched on a volcanic outcrop. It is worth a visit because it shows clearly the shape of the typical medieval settlement of Tuscia: the houses, one against the other, have been built like a boundary wall, which surrounds the castle. Both houses and fortress have been built by blocks of local tufa. The castle, built by Anguillara’s family, was destroyed in 1493 by Pope Alexander VI Borgia, and rebuilt by Onofrio Santacroce in 1518. It has a triangular plan equipped with three imposing towers: it is distinguished from other fortresses and castles of Tuscia as the foundations are dug into the tuff. The lower floor was used as stables and cellars, gendarmerie and prisons, while the top masonry was the residence of the lords of Viano. A moat protected access from enemies, while the three towers dominated the valley from every angle. The castle is not open to the public but you can see a lot of it from outside. You may stop at Vejano during a journey to another destination. Vejano Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 0761.463051
Web Site
Blera
20
Blera
(the town)
Civitella Cesi
Opening:
free access
(hamlet of Blera)
Blera is a small town in Tuscia: in ancient times, it was an Etruscan town on the Via Clodia. In 772 AD it was destroyed by the Lombards of King Desiderius. In the 13th-14th c. it belonged to the Di Vico family. In 1247 the army of Frederick II ravaged it. In the 15th c. Pope Boniface IX gave Blera to the Anguillara’s family, who owned it until 1572. Later it followed the history of the Papal States. Blera is now a well-preserved medieval town, whose walls still exist partially, and also two ancient bridges, both belonging to the Via Clodia, and many tombs hewn in the rock with small chambers imitating the architectural forms of houses. In the town’s center there is the Museum of the Horse which aims to raise awareness of the relationship between man and horse. The museum has a section dedicated to the prehistory and protohistory and an open area that documents the folkloric aspects of the Maremma and the Roman countryside. Civitella Cesi is a hamlet perched on a small hill of tufa, in the municipality of Blera. It offers to visitors the charm of walking in a village characterized by narrow cobbled alleys and intimate atmosphere. The castle, which dominates the few houses, dating back to the thirteenth century, but its present appearance is the result of renovations carried out over the centuries. The Church of San Leonardo, is the result of the 18th c. restoration of an older building. The interior has a cross plan with three apses and altar. Blera Navigate to (GPS)
City Hall: +39 0761.479255
Web Site
Blera
21
Etruscan town of S. Giovenale
Opening:
free access
In the municipal territory of Blera lies the archaeological site of San Giovenale. The excavations have brought to light a town of Villanovan origin, which was built on a Bronze Age’s settlement. While for the Etruscan age necropolis are well documented, San Giovenale is one of the few still remaining examples of a town. The most important part of housing is located on the hill known as del Borgo: the site allows you to have a fairly comprehensive view of the organization of an Etruscan settlement and the structure of its houses, including fireplaces and pits. Very interesting are the remains of the acropolis, built of large blocks of tufa. The strong position of the tuff cliff determined the choice of Vico’s family to erect a castle (14th c.), whose ruins overlooks the archaeological site. Near the Acropolis lies the necropolis of Vignale, with a wide variety of tombs. Impressive is Tagliata delle Poggette an Etruscan road embedded in the tuff and lined with rock tombs, which led from the necropolis to the village on the hill. Blera Navigate to (GPS)
City Hall: +39 0761.479255
Web Site
22
Barbarano
Barbarano (the town)
Opening:
free access
Barbarano Romano is located on a triangular tufa plateau. Inhabited since prehistoric times, the settlement is permanently occupied since the Dark Ages. The importance Barbarano reached during the Middle Ages is proved by the existence of a triple ring of walls: the first one (11° c.) is part of the so-called “castle”; the second one, equipped with square towers, dates back to the 13° c.; the third one (15° c.) had circular towers, stronger against the new firearms. The “castle” no longer exists: the so-called area is now occupied by the oldest buildings, including the Town Hall, all of them built with blocks of tufa. Characteristics cellars dug into the tufa surround Barbarano, at the foot of the plateau. Barbarano Romano Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 0761.414601
Web Site
23
Barbarano
Manturanum Regional Park
(Parco Regionale Manturanum)
Opening:
free access
Manturanum Regional Park covers an area of 1240 ha (3064 ac) characterized by large tufa valleys, covered with dense vegetation, where two major rivers flow: Vesca and Biedano. Inside the park there is the hill of San Giuliano, which takes its name from a small Romanesque church situated on its top: on the reddish tuff slopes of the hill lies the large and impressive Etruscan rocky necropolis of San Giuliano. The site is home to important archaeological remains dating back to the Villanovan (9째 c. BC). The whole Etruscan age is well documented: Orientalizing by circular burial mounds, Archaic by cube and semicube tombs, Hellenistic by Tomba del Cervo (tomb of the deer) characterized by the great semicube room used to house dozens of sarcophagi of the same family. The facade is decorated with a false door Doric, beyond which a long hallway (dromos) leads to the room. The cube is flanked by two stairways: on the left one there is a bas-relief depicting a deer attacked by a wolf or a dog (that gives it its name). After the destruction of Veii (396 b.C.) began the inexorable decline of the Etruscan civilization: the inhabitants of these places took refuge on the height of San Giuliano, where they built the high defensive tuff walls that still exist. After the conquest, the Romans linked the settlement by means of the Via Clodia, of which remain visible parts. Several quarry roads cross the park. The site was definitively abandoned in the Middle Ages (11째 c.). Barbarano Romano Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 0761.414601
Web Site
24
Bassano Romano
Bassano Romano
(the town)
Opening:
free access
Bassano is a village that is half way between the lakes of Bracciano and Vico, surrounded by an environment rich in lush vegetation, mainly characterized by old trees of beech, chestnut and oak. The origins of Bassano date back the year 1000, when the first settlement was founded in order to exploit the natural resources of the area. Between the Middle Ages and the modern age the feud of Bassano, later promoted to marquisate than principality, belonged to the most important Italian noble families of their time (Anguillara, Giustiniani, Odescalchi). The marquis Vincenzo Giustiniani, in particular, commissioned to the young Michelangelo the statue of the so-called Christ Carrying the Cross, today conserved in the Church of the Monastery of St. Vicenzo, in its original location. The church is a pilgrimage destination, a place where you invoke the divine mercy and the gift of peace. Every last Tuesday of the month is celebrated a Mass followed by an hour of adoration. Here the monks celebrate each day the Liturgy of the Hours and pray in the choir. The most important building of the village is Palazzo Giustiniani-Odescalchi, originally a feudal manor, later converted into valuable summer residence, enriched by an Italian garden. Inside the village you can see some defensive towers, now converted into housing, such as the one located at the head of the bridge delle Vaschie (17째 c.). Bassano Romano Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 0761.636901
Web Site
25
Capranica (the town)
Capranica Opening:
free access
Capranica (in local dialect Crapà) is a small town of Tuscia perched on the southern foothills of the Monti Cimini: the old town is on a tuff plateau surrounded by woods of oaks, turkey oaks and chestnuts. The first settlements on the territory date back to Etruscan times, but the earliest records are from Middle Ages, when Capranica was the capital of a County. The village grew in importance because it was a stage of the Via Francigena, the medieval route that led to Rome: today is a pilgrimage route through Italy, similar to Camino de Santiago. During the 14° c. the Anguillara’s built the castle, over an earlier stronghold. In 1465 Pope Paul II defeated the last representative of the Anguillara’s family, and conquered the feud: he did then destroy the castle, leaving only one tower. Today remains only the tower that houses one of the entrance gates, and on which has been mounted a clock (photo 1). Many churches enrich the town: the most important one is the Church of the Madonna del Piano (photo 2). It has been built between the 12° and 14° c., and has been renovated in 1559 on a design by Giacomo Barozzi da Vignola. Unfortunately the architecture of Vignola has been compromised by the restoration of 1632, occurred after an earthquake. The Church of St. Francis (12° c.) is worth a visit: inside it houses the magnificent Gothic sepulcher of Anguillara’s (15° c.), and a fresco of St. Anthony of Padua attribuited to Michelangelo. Capranica Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 0761.66791
Web Site
Sutri
26
Sutri
Opening: Museum of Patrimonium
(the town)
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
15.30 - 18.30 15.30 - 18.30 10.00 - 12.00 15.30 - 18.30 10.00 - 18.30 10.00 - 18.30 10.00 - 18.30
Sutri is a small town in the Tuscia, perched on a spur of tuff. In the past it has been a Bronze Age settlement, an Etruscan village, a Roman town (Sutrium, the first Latin colony of Rome) and, in the Middle Ages, an important fortress to protect the road to Rome (Via Francigena). Etruscans and Romans have left many important traces, now preserved in the Urban park of the ancient City of Sutri, while the town reminds of the Middle Ages. In the Dark Ages Sutri has been a settlement of paramount importance because it controlled the Via Francigena: for this reason it has been involved in the wars between the Lombards and Byzantines, until the year 728, when King Liutprand gave the city to Pope Gregory II: this donation is considered the beginning of the temporal power of the Church, and the first step into the establishment of the Patrimony of St. Peter. In the 9째 c. is the setting for the legend of valiant Roland, nephew of Charlemagne, who was born in Sutri, in the cave called del Paladino Orlando (originally an Etruscan chamber tomb). In the Middle Ages Sutri was at the center of fighting between the Guelphs and Ghibellines, ended in 1433 when the town was set on fire. Since 5째 c. Sutri is a bishopric. In the town you may want to visit the City gate called Franceta, the old wash (which, in summer, is home to valuable musical events), the Romanesque Church of St. Sylvester Pope with the Italian hours clock, and the Musem fo Patrimonium, which preserves artifacts dating from Roman to Contemporary. Sutri Navigate to (GPS)
Tourist Office: +39 0761.609380
Web Site
Urban Park of the Ancient City of Sutri (Parco Urbano dell’antichissima Città di Sutri)
Sutri
27 Opening: Park
free access Tue - Sun 09.00 - 18.00
Mithraeum Service Center
Every day 09.00 - 13.00 14.00 - 18.00
In just 7 he (17 ac) the small park contains several important archaeological sites, placed in a rich and lush natural environment and very easy to reach. Roman amphitheater (2nd - 1st c. BC) is surely the most impressive site: its peculiarity is that it is entirely dug into the tufa. The plant is elliptical in shape and consists of three rows of bleachers, able to contain more than 9,000 people. The Roman necropolis (1st c. BC), is visible along the road to Rome and consists of 64 tombs carved into the tuff wall. It’s considered one of the most representative examples of Roman hypogea. Very interesting is the Mithraeum: it’s been Etruscan tomb, pagan temple (dedicated to the god Mithras), Christian church (at first dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel, later to St. Mary with the child). The building, dug into the tuff, is rich in frescoes that adorn the walls and columns. Sutri, via Cassia Navigate to (GPS)
Park’s Service Center: +39 0761.609393
Web Site
28
Ronciglione
Ronciglione (the town)
Opening:
free access
Ronciglione is a small town which, from the tuff spur where it’s perched, overlooks the southern shore of the Lake of Vico. The necropolis (columbaria) scattered in the tufa valleys show that the settlement was inhabited since Etruscan times. Traces of Roman suggest that Ronciglione has been a castrum built to control the intersection of the consular roads Cassia and Cassia Cimina. The medieval settlement has been founded by the 11th c., by the will of di Vico’s family, who built the large towers, I Torrioni (photo 1) to protect the only natural access to the village. The building has undergone many renovations: the last one took place in the years 1475-1480 by the Florentine architect Giovanni Dolci, who added the circular keep and the four corner towers. Between 1526 and 1649 Ronciglione has been a feud of the Farnese: under their wise lordship the town lived a period of great development and splendor, during which important monuments such as the Porta Romana, the Town Hall, and the Fountain of unicorns were built. The Romanesque Church of St. Mary of Providence (photo 2) is a must visit: it was built on the edge of a cliff in the 11th c. The Duomo, designed by Rainaldi, was built in 1671: it’s dedicated to Saints Peter and Catherine. The Romanesque Church of St. Eusebius is worth a visit: it’s situated on the way to Rome, 2 km. (1,25 miles) away from the village. Ronciglione Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 0761.62901
Web Site
29
Campagnano (the town)
Campagnano di Roma
Stracciacappe
Opening:
free access
Campagnano is a town in the Roman countryside, perched on a tuffaceous hill at the foot of Monte Razzano. Inhabited since the Bronze Age, in Etruscan age the settlement falls under the control of Veii. In the Roman era, on the summit of Monte Razzano, is erected a small temple dedicated to Bacchus, from which originated the name ad Baccanas given to the valley below, where, in the 1st c. AD, next to the Via Cassia, is built the mansio (an official stopping place) ad Vacanas. In the Middle Ages Campagnano is a fortified village along the Via Francigena, the medieval route to Rome. In 1410 the Senate of Rome sells the feud of Campagnano to Gentile Orsini: than, in 1558 it’s annexed to the Duchy of Bracciano, at that time ruled by Paolo Giordano I Orsini. A basic tour of the town includes a visit to Fontana dei Delfini, Fontana Secca, Palace Venturi, Collegiate Church of St. John the Baptist, Church of Piety and Church of the Gonfalone. Just north of Lake Martignano lies the crater of Stracciacappe (photo 2), once occupied by a lake (until 19th c.). The whole area is included inside the Regional Natural Park of Bracciano and Martignano, and is linked to both lakes through a network of bike paths and dirt tracks. In the north-west slope of the crater, over a small hill, stands the Tower of Stracciacappe. The ruin, which dates back to 11th c., is all that remains of the keep of an early medieval settlement: it has the typical square plan of the Latium military architecture of that time, and allows you to get an idea of how originally the castle of Bracciano was, before the expansion of 15th c. Campagnano di Roma Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 06.9015601
Web Site
Valleys of Sorb (Valli del Sorbo)
Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Sorb
30
Campagnano di Roma Opening:
free access
Much of the territory of Campagnano spreads within the Regional Natural Park of Veio. Here lies the Valli del Sorbo (Valleys of Sorb), approved as a Site of Community Importance for the presence of characteristic tuffaceous valleys, crossed by streams that are home to a fairly preserved and interesting wildlife. Within the park, at a distance of 6 km. from the Campagnano, the Sanctuary of Santa Maria del Sorbo soars on valleys. The monastery, built in 1427 by Cardinal Giordano Orsini, rises above the ruins of Castrum Sorbi, a castle which dated back to 10th c., built to control both Via Cassia and Via Flaminia, and abandoned during the 13th c. The foundation of the monastery goes with a local legend that tells of the apparition of Our Lady on a sorb tree (typical plant of this area) to a young shepherd of swine. The complex is spread over three levels, connected by a staircase. In the lower levels there are several buildings dating back to 17th and 18th centuries, while on top lies the church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. You enter through a portal, highlighted by a simple frame made of peperino: “AD 1487” is carved on the lintel. The interior, large and shallow, has three naves with ten columns on which you set round arches built with blocks of tufa. The middle nave has the ceiling with wooden trusses. In the church is preserved a painting on wood (11° c.) depicting a Madonna with jeweled robes and throne in Byzantine style. Campagnano di Roma, via del Sorbo Navigate to (GPS)
Park of Veii: +39 06.9042774
Web Site
Nepi
31
Nepi
(the town)
Opening: Civic museum
Catacomb of S. Savinilla
Tue - Fri 11.00 - 13.00 16.00 - 18.00 Sat - Sun 10.00 - 13.00 15.00 - 18.00 ask at the museum
Nepi, city of waters (Nepa is the Etruscan word for water) is a small town that is located on a spur of tuff cut to the north and south by two gorges. Originally it was a Faliscan settlement, highly influenced by Etruscan culture: later, after the Roman conquest, became, along with Sutri, the first Latin colony of Rome (383 BC). Sacked several times during the barbarian invasions, grew in importance during the Dark Ages, as it was located along the Via Amerina, the only connection between Rome and Ravenna during the Gothic War (535-554 AD). In the early Middle Ages it has been for a short time a free commune, than it has been annexed to the Papal State. The town was fortified at the end of the 15th c. by Cardinal Rodrigo Borgia (later Pope Alexander VI), who built the square fortress with four circular towers. In 1537 Nepi was subjected to the Farnese’s family, which added the Farnesian bastions. The aqueduct of Nepi (photo 2), built in 1727, intersect the fortification by a monumental double row of arches: what results is an highly suggestive scenario. The Co-cathedral Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta dates from the late 15th c.: the interior has a basilica plan, with five naves separated by pillars; under the apsidal chancel lies the crypt ad oratorium (11th c.), supported by 24 columns and pilasters. From the Church of San Tolomeo alle Sante Grotte you access the underground complex of the Catacombe di Santa Savinilla, a late-imperial cemetery: it consists of three main galleries and numerous tunnels dug into the lithoid tuff. Along the walls are piled different kinds of burials: arcosolia, niches, tombe a mensa. The site preserves frescoes dating from the 13th c. Civic museum: Nepi, via Falisca, 31 Navigate to (GPS)
Civic museum: +39 0761.570604
Web Site
32
Regional Park Treja’s Valley (Parco Regionale Valle del Treja)
Mazzano Romano Opening:
free access
The protected area spreads over an area of 600 he (1482 ac) covered by dense vegetation and crossed by the river Treja. The whole area can be visited on foot or on horseback, following the marked trails. Many species of animals inhabited the area: foxes, badgers, porcupines, weasels, woodpeckers, jays, owls, coquettes, barn owls and tawny owls. Many plants thrive in the dense vegetation, including orchids, daffodils, periwinkles, buttercups, cyclamens, primroses and wood violets. The list of park’s sites to visit include the waterfalls of Monte Gelato (photo 1), formed by the Treja, an highly suggestive site which has been used as setting in many films. Nearby lies an old restored water mill. There are also several water sources: following the path on the left bank of Treja, after about 1 km from the waterfalls you’ll find a fountain of fresh and effervescent water (Fontana Salsa). Near Mazzano is an old furnace that still bakes bricks and tiles according to the ancient tradition. In the northern side of the park lies the archaeological site of Narce, an ancient Faliscan settlement, which has been continuously inhabited since the Bronze Age to the 2nd c. BC. Many examples of Faliscan art and culture have been found in the numerous tombs discovered near the settlement. Between the 6th and 5th c. BC the inhabitants of Narce erected two suburban sanctuaries: that one of Monte Li Santi at Le Rote (photo 2), can be visited (it’s located along the banks of the Treja). Park: Mazzano, strada Vallelunga le Rote Navigate to (GPS)
Park’s office: +39 0761.587617
Web Site
33
Calcata (the town)
Calcata Opening:
free access
Calcata is a small town perched on a mountain of tufa, at the center of the Park Valle del Treja. The existence of Calcata is documented from the 8th c.: the current village, however, dates from the 13th c., when the family of Anguillara built the walls and the baronial castle. The settlement of Narce, located behind the village proves that the site was inhabited as early as the 13th c. B.C., by the population of Falisci (literally people of Falerii). Later the site was ruled by Etruscan. Over time the weaknesses of the tuff cliff led the inhabitants to move downstream, preserving the charm of the place. Nowadays the village is completely closed to traffic and you can only enter village on foot, through a large fortified portal. Behind the gate there is a small square on which stands the Church of SS. Name of Jesus, dating from the first half of the 14th c. The church preserves some late Renaissance stuccos and a polychrome marble tabernacle (XVI c.). From the square narrow streets unfold: they wind through small houses and old cellars, now restored and used as stores of objects of art and antiques. Wandering through the village you can rediscover the ancient walls of the houses windows, portals and the famous medieval profferli. A visit to Granarone, an old restored medieval barn where they organize concerts, debates, conferences and courses in painting and sculpture, is recommended. Today Calcata is inhabited mostly by artists from all over the world. Calcata Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 0761.587021
Web Site
34
Santa Severa
Santa Marinella Opening: Antiquarium Museum
Tue - Sun 09.00 - 19.00 09.00 - 13.00 15.00 - 17.00
Santa Severa is a seaside village in the municipality of Santa Marinella: it stands where once stood Pyrgi, one of the ports of the Etruscan Cerveteri. It’s renowned for the beach that overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea and the mighty coastal fortress. The free sandy beach is long and wide: few bathing facilities are on the sidelines. The castle was built in the 14th c.: the village was formed in several stages during the 15th-16th c. The castle is home to the Museum of the Sea and the Ancient Navigation, which offers an exhibition that introduces visitors to underwater archeology and ancient navigation. In front of the castle there’s a small Antiquarium, which contains a large graphic and photographic documentation of the excavation of the archaeological site of Pyrgi and many of the materials found during the excavations, in which the archaeologists have uncovered a Tuscan temple with three cells, abundant fragments of pottery and a relief representing a gigantomachia. Antiquarium: +39 0766.570194 Navigate to (GPS)
Museum: +39 0766.570209
Web Site
35
Town Borgo della Farnesiana
Allumiere Opening: Museum
Tue - Sun 09.00 - 13.00
Allumiere is a small town located on the Tolfa Mountains, 522 meters above sea level. The territory, inhabited since the Paleolithic, has been populated, repeatedly, during the Copper Age, the Bronze Age and, by Etruscans, in the Archaic. In Roman times the countryside was controlled and utilized by the system of villae rusticae. A genuine town was founded in the late 16th c., after the discovery of the mines of alum and the fall of Constantinople, which interrupted the supply of that mineral from the East. The town of Allumiere corresponds to what was the largest storage facility and material processing plant. In the historic center is the Allumiere’s archaeological, natural, mineralogical museum, in the building (16th c.) that housed the mines’ administration. In the same square stands the Parish Church of St. Mary’s Assumption: it was built in 1608 above a small chapel which was used by mine workers. Initially the church was formed by a single nave: in 1857 two side naves were added. Another settlement built to service the mining industry was Borgo della Farnesiana (photo 1), today a semi-abandoned hamlet of Allumiere. The village, founded by Pope Paul III Farnese, has not changed over time: it included a mill, an oven, a farm and a Neo-Gothic Church dedicated the Immaculata (photo 2). Likewise isolated is the Baroque Sanctuary of Our Lady of Cibona: it was built in the 17th c. next to the eponymous alum quarry, to serve the workers. Museum: Allumiere, piazza della Repubblica, 29 Navigate to (GPS)
Museum: +39 0766.967793
Web Site
36
Civitavecchia
City Harbor
Opening: Museum
Tue - Sun 08.30 - 19.30
Civitavecchia is a port city overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea: its port is among the most important in Italy, second in Europe by number of passengers. Although the territory is inhabited since the Neolithic, a real city is formed only in imperial times, at the behest of Trajan, who wanted to build here the new port of Rome. The work proceeded for three years, (107 - 110 AD), during which time the emperor made his residence nearby, at Centumcellae, where he had built a great palace. Civitavecchia had a troubled life during the Dark Ages, being at the center of the ambitions of Byzantines, Lombards, Papacy and being prey to Saracens: it came firmly under the temporal power of the Church only in the 15th c., after being disputed between the Guelphs and Ghibellines at the begin of Middle Ages. Pope Julius II (1503 - 1513) began construction of the Bramante’s coastal fortress: it was completed in 1535 by Michelangelo, who designed the upper part of the hexagon keep. More fortifications were added over time, as the walls of Sangallo (1555). In the 17th c. Civitavecchia was equipped with arsenal, for being the headquarters of Papal Navy. At the end of the same century was restored the Trajan aqueduct, which supplied the city. The old port is now, as a whole, an important architectural work in addition to military structures are valuable the Fountain of Vanvitelli, the tower of the lazaret, the antemurale. Today it is on the end of the long seafront promenade where there are many restaurants and bars. The National Archaeological Museum, housed in the 18th c. palace that was once the seat of the papal garrison, contains a number of findings from Centumcellae. Civitavecchia Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 0766.5901
Web Site
37
Archaeological site of Terme Taurine Baths of Fincocella
Civitavecchia Opening: Terme Taurine
Every day 08.30 - 19.30
The archaeological site of Terme Taurine (or Trajan) is located a few kilometers from Civitavecchia, on a hill from which you can enjoy the beautiful views of the Tyrrhenian. It lies in open countryside and is a genuine archaeological park. The name Taurine comes from the Latin word taurus (bull): Rutilius Namatianus tells that a god in the guise of a bull, scraping the ground with the hoof, found the sulfur hot water. The complex is divided into two areas: the Republican Baths (1st c. BC), built in opus reticulatum (reticulated work) and the Imperial Baths, built in opus latericium (brick work) between 123 and 136 AD. Among the ruins you will find baths, massage rooms and mosaics with ornamental motifs. Since 2000 in the ancient complex there is also a botanical garden. Today in the archaeological park there is no water, but in the nearby there is the Baths of Ficoncella (photo 3) a free thermal complex, where you can immerse yourself in one of the five pools. The waters are hot, odorless, and therapeutic. Civitavecchia, via delle Terme Taurine Navigate to (GPS)
Terme Taurine: +39 327269699665
Web Site
38
Town Necropolis Ara della Regina (archaeological site)
Tarquinia Opening: Necropolis
Tue - Sun 08.30 - 1h to sunset
Museum
Tue - Sun 08.30 - 19.30
Ara della Regina
free access
Tarquinia has been one of the oldest and most important settlements of the Etruscan Dodecapolis, which fell under the power of Rome at the beginning of the 3rd c. BC. In the Dark Ages it became Lombard, Carolingian and then part of the State of the Church. Later, due to the Saracens, the ancient town was abandoned and rebuilt in the current site. The Etruscans have left important traces: the Necropolis of Monterozzi contains about 6000 graves, which date back up to the 7th c. BC. They preserve the most important collection of paintings of Etruscan art that we know. In 2004 the site was declared a World Heritage Site. Many of the artifacts found in the necropolis are collected in the National Etruscan Museum of Tarquinia, which is housed in the 15th c. Palazzo Vitelleschi (photo 1). The museum, one of the most important in Italy, preserves numerous sarcophagi, Greek and Etruscan pottery, coins and jewels. Several air-conditioned rooms preserve some graves rebuilt and decorated with the original frescoes. Another important Etruscan site is Ara della Regina (photo 2): it’s an Etruscan temple (4th c. BC) probably dedicated to Diana (Artume in Etruscan) goddess of night, fertility and nature. The stone base is all that remains of the original building: scholars suggest that it was the access to the naos (the interior cell of the temple, where the statue of the deity was kept). The site offers a splendid view of the sea. Necropolis: Tarquinia, Strada Provinciale 43 Navigate to (GPS)
Necropolis: +39 0766.856308
Web Site
39
Town
Vetralla Opening: Museum
Sat 16.30 - 19.00 Sun 10.30 - 13.00 16.00 - 19.00
The territory of Vetralla was intensely inhabited by the Etruscans, as shown by the rich archaeological evidences, like the rocky necropolis of Norchia. In Roman times the area has grown thanks to the Via Cassia (which passed through it): in the site occupied by the Church of Santa Maria in Forcassi stood the ancient Forum Cassii, a mansio indicated on the Tabula Peutingeriana, located along the consular road. Some ruins of the mansio and some well preserved parts of Via Cassia are all that remains of the ancient town. A permanent settlement was formed only in the Dark Ages, when the population moved to Monte Fogliano, a more easily defensible site, where today the modern Vetralla still stands. In 728 AD it becomes part of the State of the Church: in Vetralla Pope Eugene III ordered the Second Crusade (1145 AD). Over time the feud of Vetralla was assigned to several noble families linked to the papacy, like Orsini, Di Vico, Cybo and Farnese. Today the town offers a long promenade that crosses the historic center, which is overlooked by palaces and churches: that of St. Francis (12th c.) preserves the most important cycle of Franciscans frescoes outside Assisi. Ancient columns and materials, probably from Forum Cassii, have been reused to built the church. One of the towers of the ancient city wall is home to the Museum of the City and Territory (photo2), where an extensive documentation on wine, rural traditions and handicrafts is preserved. Vetralla Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 0761.461267
Web Site
40
Palazzo Farnese
Caprarola Opening: Palace Park
Tue - Sun 08.30 - 19.30 weekdays 10.00, 11.00, 12.00, 15.00 16.00 (15 mar - 31 oct) 17.00 (15 apr - 15 oct)
Palazzo Farnese stands on a hill at the foot of the Monti Cimini, dominating the village and the surrounding area: it’s a tangible sign of the power of the Farnese family, which is counted among the protagonists of the history of the 16th c. The building, which is both fortress, palace, and suburban villa, is the result of the stratification of two distinct phases of construction. The first project was entrusted to Sangallo, who conceived it as a fortress able to withstand the new firearms. He oversaw the work until 1534, when the construction stopped: the works resumed in 1559, under the supervision of Vignola, who forced changes to the village too, obtaining the long straight road. The architect replaced the angular ramparts (from the original project) with terraces: in this way the fort became a palace. In the center of the residence was built a two story circular courtyard. The helical Scala Regia acts as liaison between the noble floors: it’s considered one of Vignola’s most original inventions. The best painters and architects of the time worked in the sumptuous home. Along the rooms on the main floor unfolds an extraordinary wall decoration: in quantity and quality is one of the most important pictorial cycles of the late Mannerism. Behind the palace, connected by bridges, there are two secret gardens. Further on, on the slopes of the hill, a park with terraces, fountains and water features was built to valorise the “Casina del Piacere”, originally a hunting lodge. Caprarola, piazza Farnese 1 Navigate to (GPS)
Palazzo Farnese: +39 0761 646052
Web Site
41
Falerii Novi (archaeological site)
Fabrica di Roma Opening:
free access
Falerii was the main city of Faliscan, a pre-Roman population in central Italy, whose origins are not clear. After the Roman conquest of Southern Etruria Falerii joined the Etruscan dodecapolis. During the First Punic War, Falerii, already Romanized, rebelled to the control of Rome, but than they reconquered it and destroyed it. Later the Romans founded a new settlement, which was called Falerii Novi (New Falerii): then the old town took the name of Falerii Veteres (Old Falerii). During the 10th c., due to the raids of the Normans, Falerii Novi was abandoned and reconstituted on the old site of Faleri veteres, which later became Civita Castellana. Well preserved city walls surround the ruins of Falerii: through the ancient gate of Porta Giove (photo 1) you can reach the site. The archaeological excavations have uncovered homes, theater and city streets, including a section of Via Cimina. The most visible monument is the Romanesque Church of Santa Maria of Falerii (photo 3), whih was built in the 12th c. Fabrica di Roma, via Faleri Novi Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 0761.569001
Web Site
42
Town Castle Ruspoli
Vignanello Opening: Castle Ruspoli
Apr - Nov Sunday 10.00 - 13.00 15.00 - 18.00
August only on reservation
The territory of Vignanello extends to the eastern slopes of the Monti Cimini, surrounded by deep gorges carved by small streams. The area is frequented from the Upper Paleolithic, thanks to the numerous tufa caves scattered around the area in which Homo Sapiens Sapiens could easily find shelter. The settlement was formed during the barbarian invasions, by the population seeking refuge. In 1169 AD Vignanello is conquered by Frederick Barbarossa, who included it in the imperial possessions: later it was disputed by the feudal families of Aldobrandini, Orsini, Di Vico, Farnese (which took the feud in 1534) and finally Ruspoli-Marescotti. The castle (photo 2) was built in the 16th c., designed by Sangallo, above the fortress of the 11th c., that was built by Benedictine monks. In 1611 Ottavia Orsini wanted to add an Italian garden (photo 3), divided into three different parts. Vignanello, piazza della Repubblica Navigate to (GPS)
Town hall: +39 0761.7563200
Web Site
43
Town Forte Sangallo
Civita Castellana Opening: Museum & Fortress
Tue - Sun 08.00 - 19.00
The town is located on a spur of red tufa (generated by volcano Vicano), among the deep gorges of two tributaries of Treja river, along the Via Flaminia. According to legend the greek Halaesus, son of Agamemnon and Briseis, founded Falerii Veteres, the ancient Civita Castellana. In fact, the town was founded by the Faliscan, pre-Roman people who lived in central Italy. After the Roman conquest they had to move to Falerii Novi, but later they were definitely Romanized. During the Gothic wars and, later, the Lombard invasion, the settlement has been repopulated: so Civita Castellana was born. During the Middle Ages the town was disputed between the families of Di Vico and Savelli, until 1426 AD when the State of the Church reasserted its dominance. Between 1499 and 1503 the fortress (photo 2) was build, designed by Sangallo, the way of star fort, a style of fortifications that evolved during the age of gunpowder. It’s situated in the western side of the city, outside of the old town, an area already occupied by medieval fortifications, to defend the only not naturally defended side. Both the walls and the keep were equipped with firing positions, arranged along the entire perimeter: in 1527 it helped Civita Castellana to resist the assault of Landsknecht. Today it houses the Museo Nazionale dell’Agro Falisco, that shows the historical evolution of Faliscan civilization. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Maggiore (photo 2) dates back to the early 13th c. The church has a single nave; the high altar consists of a Roman sarcophagus (4th c. AD). Civita Castellana, via Mazzocchi Navigate to (GPS)
Museum: +39 0761.513735
Web Site
44
Town
Tuscania Opening:
free access
Tuscania is a town that rises over seven tuff promontories, between the rivers Marta and Capecchio, from where it controls the Marta’s valley, that it has been an important communication route and transhumance that connected, since prehistoric times, the Lake Bolsena to the Tyrrhenian Sea. In the past Tuscania has been Paleolithic site, Etruscan city (connected to Tarquinia), Roman municipium; in the Dark Ages was affected by the Gothic wars, but rises again as a free commune at the beginning of the Middle Ages. In the 14th c. it becomes part of the Papal States, until 1870. The medieval core of the city is still surrounded by walls: they are predominantly made up of tuff curtain walls, along which some fortified structures related to the ancient watchtowers remain, such as the ruins of the Castle of the ravelin (photo 1). The current walls are the result of the post 16th c. restoration: the oldest are those Etruscans, of which few traces remain. In the place where probably stood the Etruscan acropolis, San Pietro hill, around 1093 AD the Church of St. Peter (photo 2) has been built. The portal and the richly decorated rose window characterize the facade. The interior is divided into three naves: on the right one are a ciborium dating back to the 13th c. and the main entrance to the crypt. This is a large room punctuated with 28 columns (all of them taken from Roman or early medieval buildings) that support the roof divided into small vaults. The Romanesque Church of St. Mary Major, has a facade with rose window and three finely decorated portals: in front there is a massive bell tower, possibly from a previous era. Tuscania, piazzale Trieste Navigate to (GPS)
Tourist Office: + 39 0761.4454259
Web Site
45
Viterbo Opening:
Old Town
free access
Viterbo has ancient origins (the name comes from Urbs Vetus, that means old city) and has a large medieval historic center surrounded by well-kept defensive walls and well-preserved neighborhoods. Viterbo is known as the City of the Popes because in the 13th c. It’s been the Papal seat (1257 - 1281). In the 12th c. Viterbo has been a free city allied to the Holy Roman Empire (against Rome): during this period it imposes itself as the main town of Tuscia. Later the direct involvement of the popes guaranteed the city a period of splendor, which ended with the Avignon captivity, period during which Viterbo became a dominion in the hands of the Di Vico’s family. In the modern era the city lost the international vocation that it had had in the Middle Ages, and its destiny followed that of the State of the Church. The Middle Ages has imprinted on Viterbo its image: the entire old town shows intact traces of this past. In the charming Piazza San Lorenzo are located the most important buildigs: one is Palazzo dei Papi (photo 1), which has been papal seat and home of 5 conclaves. It is a massive building with mighty buttresses overhanging a valley: inside is located the impressive Hall of the Conclave. Outside the Loggia delle Benedizioni opens on the side of the square with a game of arches supported by slender columns. The Cathedral of St. Lawrence (photo 2) was built in the Romanesque style in the 12th c. The interior has three naves separated by two rows of columns culminating in elegant capitals. Viterbo Navigate to (GPS)
Tourist Office: + 39 0761.325992
Web Site
46
Ferento
Viterbo Opening:
free access
(archaeological site)
Ferento was founded by exiles of Acquaviva, Etruscan city destroyed by rival Tarquinia (around 500 BC). In Roman times it became a municipium, where were born the Emperor Otho and Domitilla the Elder, wife of Vespasian. During the Dark Ages ferento lived an era of decline, because of the continuous wars that afflicted Italy, but the end of the city took place in the 12th c., when it was swept away by expansionist ambitions of Viterbo: in the New Year’s Eve of 1272 AD the army of Viterbo destroyed what remained of Ferento. For centuries to come Viterbo always hindered the rebuilding of Ferento: thanks to that fury today a magnificent archaeological site is preserved. The Roman theater is the most impressive building: it’s partly leaning on the natural slope of the land and partly supported by masonry structures. The auditorium was carved directly into the rock. To the east of the theater is located the great thermal complex: we recognize the classical division of spaces into tepidarium, caldarium, and frigidarium, plus some ancillary rooms, like apodyterium (changing room) and unctorium (anointing room). All the rooms were paved with mosaic tiles. The baths, dating back to the Augustan age, became a block of private homes in medieval times. Viterbo, Strada Ferento Navigate to (GPS)
Tourist Office: + 39 0761.325992
Web Site
47
Villa Lante della Rovere
Viterbo Opening:
Jan - Feb Mar 1 - 15 Apr 16 Apr - 15 Sep 16 Sep - Oct Nov - Dec
Tue - Sun 08.30 - 16.30 08.30 - 17.30 08.30 - 18.30 08.30 - 19.30 08.30 - 18.30 08.30 - 16.30
In the hamlet of Bagnaia is Villa Lante della Rovere, one of the most famous mannerist Italian gardens: it was voted most beautiful gardens of Italy in 2011. In 1568 Cardinal Francesco Gambara, related to the Farnese, had the idea to transform the park of Bagnaia into a artistic villa with gardens, woods and water. The project was commissioned to Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola: he built the older of the two cottages that are in Villa Lante: the second one, almost identical, was build 30 years later, by a different owner. The two square buildings have a ground floor where several rusticated lodges support the floor above: a small tower or lantern stands on top of both sloping tile roofs. The buildings are very different in frescoes: landscape painting decorates the cottage so-called Gambara, while a more classical style prevails in the so-called cottage Montalto. However the main attraction of Villa Lante are the gardens, especially the water features such as waterfalls, fountains and grottos dripping. The park extends through parterres (flat surfaces, made up of flower beds that extend in symmetrical patterns, separated and connected by gravel paths) and terraces. The geometries of the park are arranged so to amaze th obsevers, by proposing them different environments according to different observation points. The unique feature of Villa Lante is the predominance of the garden over the architectural work. The Garden is thus an enchanting place created and built by a powerful cardinal in the name of the supremacy of man over nature. Viterbo, via Jacopo Barozzi, 71 Navigate to (GPS)
Villa Lante: + 39 0761.288008
Web Site
48
Bullicame
Viterbo Opening:
free access
(free natural thermal baths)
Viterbo is located in the center of a large hydrothermal basin fed by dozens water springs that supply natural and artificial pools: in some of these you can freely immerse at any time of day. The most famous thermal site is the Bullicame (photos 1 & 2), mentioned in Dante’s Divine Comedy: the sulfur water, which has important beneficial properties, flows at 55° C from a natural crateere, to feed 3 pools. Two springs with similar properties supply the so-called Piscine Carletti (photo 3). Here the water gushes out at 58° C, but the channeling in a dozen pools that are different in shape, size, and disposition allow you to choose the best temperature. The bed of some pools is muddy so that you can make mud masks. If you are in a group, and you have a flashlight, you can try the experience of a night swim, but remember: it’s your own risk because the baths are not guarded. Always remember to bring a towel (preferably a bathrobe) and a change. Remember that the waters are sulphurous: leaves the thermal bath as last activity before going back to the room.
Navigate to (GPS)
Viterbo, Strada Provinciale 15 Tourist Office: + 39 0761.325992
Web Site
49
San Martino al Cimino
Viterbo Opening:
free access
(hamlet of Viterbo)
At the beginning of the 13th c. Pope Innocent III granted the lands in the north of Lake Vico to the Cistercian monks of the abbey of Pontigny, with a mandate to build an abbey and develop agricolture: in 1225 the church was completed. Around the religious complex the village of San Martino al Cimino arose and grew, even after 1564, when the abbey was abandoned. In 1645 Pope Innocent X gave the village to the Olimpia Maidalchini, and gave back to the church, at that time in ruins, the title of abbatial church. Lady Olimpia completely restored the church, adding two towers as buttresses, built a palace on the ruins of the large monastic structures and watched on the reconstruction and reorganization of the village. The church (photo 2) shows a solemn facade adorned with a rose window and a large Gothic polifora. The interior is simple and austere, reminiscent of the great Gothic cathedrals and abbeys Cistercians for the high vaulted ceiling, large windows and the colonnade pillars with a cross. In the Doria-Pamphili Palace there is the room of Olympia, where the ceiling is raised and lowered by a pulley system. Viterbo, piazza Buratti Navigate to (GPS)
Tourist Office: + 39 0761.325992
Web Site
50
Town Castle
Soriano nel Cimino Opening: Castle
Sunday and holidays 10.30 - 13.00 15.00 - 18.00
Soriano is located at an altitude of 509 mt AMSL on the slopes of Monte Cimino, the highest peak of the Monti Cimini. During the Middle Ages in the territory there were several scattered settlements, consisting of a few houses grouped around small castles: from the 13th c. the village of Soriano prevailed above all. Between 1278 and 1366 the feud has been in the hands of the Orsini: Pope Nicholas III, the most illustrious of the family, between 1277 and 1279, built the Castle Orsini (photo 1), around an earlier tower (about 1000 AD) that was incorporated as the keep of the new building. The rectangular cĂ ssero was set against the older tower, connected through a wall bounded by a cylindrical tower to the north, and to the south by a minor branch. The castle was restored and reinforced in the late 15th c. Soriano has been the center of the struggle between Guelphs and Ghibellines until 1435, when Cardinal Vitelleschi recaptured it and, in the churchyard of St Eutizio, beheaded Giacomo Di Vico, last descendant of the powerful pro-imperial family. At the end of the 18th c., the Duomo of St. Nicholas of Bari (photo 2) was built in neoclassical style. The interior has a Greek cross with three naves and decorated dome. Soriano nel Cimino, via dei Telari Navigate to (GPS)
Town Hall: + 39 0761.742235
Web Site
51
Monsters’ Park (Parco dei Mostri)
Bomarzo
Opening:
Jan - Mar Apr - Oct Nov - Dec
Everyday 08.30 - sunset 08.30 - 19.00 08.30 - sunset
The so-called Monster Park (or Sacred Forest) of Bomarzo is a monument located on the slopes of a natural amphitheater. In 1552 Pier Francesco Orsini (called Vicino Orsini), lord of Bomarzo, commissioned the construction to the architect and antiquarian Pirro Ligorio. The park, in the intentions of Orsini, had to be a place where he could elaborate the mourning for the loss of his wife Giulia Farnese: as a sentence engraved on a pillar states “Sol per sfogare il core” (“Just to ease the heart”). In 1585, after the death of the last Prince Orsini, the park was abandoned for nearly four centuries: only in the late 20th c. it was restored and opened to the public. Pirro Ligorio built a park that still remain an enigma: according to the canons of the grotesque, wandering around the 3 he (7,40 ac) of Mediterranean scrub and green areas, you’ll find impossible architectures, like the tilted house (photo 1) or some enigmatic statues, like the ogre (photo 2), representing the stages of a journey of alchemical array. The park will appeal to both adults and children. Bomarzo, via Madonna della Valle Navigate to (GPS)
Park: + 39 0761.924029
Web Site
52
Town
Montefiascone Opening:
free access
Montefiascone is located on the south-eastern slope of the Volsini mountain range Volsini. The territory has been attended continuously since the Copper Age, but the first real settlement dates back to Roman times. The town gained in importance during the Middle Ages for being a fortified village along the Via Francigena, the main road leading to Rome: during the investiture controversy was disputed between the papacy and the empire. During the Avignon captivity popes sent representatives in Montefiascone, from where they ruled the Papal States. In the 15th c. begins the decline of the town: the Popes, after returning to Italy, forgot it. In the 17th c. To make things worse Montefiascone was ravaged by both the plague and the earthquake that destroyed the nearby Bagnoregio. Today the name of Montefiascone is closely related to the wine, whose tradition dates back to Frederick Barbarossa: Est! Est!! Est!!! is the name of the DOC white wine, whose name’s origin goes back to the story of the Prussian Prince John Defuk and the servant Martino, on the journey to Rome of 1111 AD. The old town and the fortress are the main attractions of Montefiascone. It has also a stretch of coast of Lake Bolsena. Montefiascone, via Indipendenza Navigate to (GPS)
Tourist Office: +39 0761.832060
Web Site
53
Civita di Bagnoregio (Old Town)
Bagnoregio Opening: Museum Jun - Sep
Tue - Sun 09.30 - 19.00 14.00 - 18.30
Mar - May Oct - 6 Jan
Fri - Sun 10.00 - 13.00 14.00 - 17.30
Civita is both the Old Town an an hamlet of Bagnoregio. It’s perched on a tuff cliff subjected to washing away: this causes an erosion that destroys the buildings built on the edge of the cliff: this is why Civita is known as The dying city. Erosion has profoundly transformed the surrounding area, drawing valleys of gullies and contributing to isolate the town, which today can only be reached via a pedestrian bridge (photo 1). Etruscan have been the first to occupy the site: at that time the settlement had five town gate. Etruscan and Roman effectively combatted the erosion by constructing hydraulic works, but later the maintenance was abandoned, with the result that the erosion began again, and finally the village had to be abandoned. Within the village buildings are preserved as they were in the past: many medieval houses, the Church of San Donato (photo 2), which overlooks the main square, the Bishop’s Palace, a mill of the 16th c., the birthplace of St. Bonaventure and the town gate of Santa Maria (decorated with two lions keeping in the paws a human head, in memory of a popular uprising against the Monaldeschi family from Orvieto). The Church of San Donato dates back to the 5th c. but has been restored in the 16th c., according to the shapes of the Renaissance: however, some traces of the Romanesque plan still remain. Between 600 AD and 1695 AD it has been a cathedral church. Alemanni Palace houses the Geological Museum of Landslides, which preserves the mineralogical and fossil evidences from the territory. Bagnoregio, via Tecchi Navigate to (GPS)
Town Hall: +39 0761.780815
Web Site
Your notes 1. remember to leave feedbacks to
Rome has many lakes, but only two are Lakes of Rome: Bracciano & Martignano. They are the core of a beautiful area rich in history, natural beauty, tradition and food culture, but they are the gateway to a wider territory too, where a lot more beauties and flavors are: Tuscia, the land that separates Rome from Tuscany. This is the first interactive guide that help you enjoing this part of Italy at best: actually, through the intensive use of QR codes, this book interacts with your smartphone, or tablet, both giving you driving directions (by activating the navigator) and providing you additional and updated informations (by loading related web pages). We understand that your vacation is like a story: it has a beginning, an end, and in the middle there is the experience. Similarly this guide is divided into Start and eXperience, because around the Lakes of Rome eating is not just feeding, exploring is not just seeing new things, enjoying is not just taking delight, but everything is experiencing.
Enzo Ramella is a PhD who loves the territory and wants to make it known and appreciated.
ISBN 978-1-326-32828-3
90000
9 781326 328283