A YEAR IN THE LIFE - 2016
2016 A YEAR IN THE LIFE 2016 marks our 8th year living full-time in the Swiss Alps, and it seems that the longer we spend here, the more unique and incredible places we discover - from right in our own backyard, to far-flung remote valleys, to hidden corners of well-traveled cities and towns. The convoluted topography of this alpine region has helped to create such a diverse cultural geography and long-held traditions, that when we cross from one valley to the next on foot, on skis, or by bike, we hear different dialects spoken, taste totally unique cuisine, and even feel as though we could be in a different country - which sometimes we are. We like to think that Epic Europe's approach is foremost as travelers ourselves - passionate about discovering new adventures, local characters, the ultimate ski runs, hiking routes, and bike trails in the emblematic locales that define the inimitable alpine idyll that only exists in this, the historic birthplace of luxury adventure travel.
Just as important to our trips are our amazing partners, whether our mountain guides, who have spent many generations mapping the vast mountain landscape to take us to the best ski descents and mountain summits - and bring us home safely; to passionate winemakers who have spent their lives squeezing the best possible crop out of the challenging landscape to produce a worldclass wine from an largely unknown region; to the hoteliers who have created a historic network of authentic hospitality throughout the Alps, from classic 5star hotels to family-run mountain inns, and everything between. Not to mention the enigmatic local farmers, restaurateurs, and characters whose perseverance in the challenging landscape of the Alps has defined the "welcome" that we pass along to our clients and guests - they have become our friends, and make our job easier because they love what they do as much as we do. This passion is contagious, and it is so gratifying to see the moment that this clicks with our clients, and we know that they will be back again to experience more of this passion again. We are so fortunate for this fairy-tale landscape and the opportunities that living in it affords. To be able to call it work is hard to believe, and for that we have to thank our clients and guests, who have now become our friends.
If you traveled with us this past year, you may recognize some of these photos from your trips, and we look forward to the opportunity to explore new places with you in 2017. If not, we can't wait to show you these places and many more in the near future. This annual album is a look back at the past year in our life, which is largely spent discovering and sharing the Alps with our friends and guests. We hope that you enjoy these photos as much as we enjoyed making them, and the year that we spent collecting the experiences that made 2016 our best yet. Peace and love from our corner of the Alps, Here's to a happy and healthy 2017! Susanna Magruder & Jack Shaw And the Epic Europe team
Please keep up with our latest news and adventures:
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date:
location:
time: Celebrating the New Year Ă la Hans
01/01/16
LEJ DA CHAMPFER 1815M
1:30 PM
Christian Andersen; a dry December made for some of the best black ice skating in memory.
date:
07/01/16
location:
LA PLEYEUSE 1330 M
time:
5:15 PM
The days are getting longer, slowly but surely. On the north-facing slopes of Bruson, we enjoy the Alpenglow for almost as many hours as we get the sun.
date:
15/01/16
location:
MOAY 1690M
time:
3:45PM
The grassy fields above the office are perfect for early-season powder conditions.
date:
04/02/16
location:
SIX BLANC 2091M
time: Finally the backyard is filled in, blue skies
10:20 AM
and champagne powder in one of our secret stashes.
date:
09/02/16
location:
VAL DE BAGNES 1520M
time: When it snows heavily down to the valley
12:05 PM
floor, the best skiing is through the summer alpages and farming villages. Like a step back in time, this could be 1936 or 2016.
date:
18/02/16
location:
EVOLÈNE 1371M
time: Les Empailliés - Giant Men of Straw, one of
11:30 AM
the characters of the mythical Carnaval d’Evolène, in the unspoiled Val d’Hérens.
date:
location:
time: “You never know until you go” is one of
26/02/16
GLACIER DE TORTIN 2895 M
10:55 AM
the truest pieces of advice in skiing. On this sleepy Friday, with way more snow than expected, we were glad we went up to Verbier!
date:
12/03/16
location:
ROISETTE VALLE D’AOSTA 3334M
time:
10:05 AM
A quick ski over the border to the Helipad in Cervinia Italy, and the sky is the limit. Today, we have our sights set on the northfacing powder on the Roisette, with the eternally smooth-turning mountain guide Christoph Petrig pointing out the landplatz.
date:
location:
time: And a few days later it was couloir season
15/03/16
CHĂ‚TEAU DES DAMES 3489M
10:45 AM
on Château des Dames, one of the iconic north-facing lines you drool over when skiing the resort at Cervinia.
date:
location:
21/03/16
TĂŠTE DE VALPELLINE 3799M
time:
9:30 AM
The iconic final descent of the Haute Route takes skiers directly below the north face of the Matterhorn, but first serves up several hundred silky turns of boot-top spring powder, yielding to corn snow, and delivering you to Zermatt in time for lunch.
date:
location:
01/04/16
ALPHUBELJOCH 3771M
time: One of the lesser skied heli-runs of the Mat-
10:50 AM
tertal, the Alphubeljoch rewards in the springtime with a 2000m vertical descent to Saas Fee (6562ft.)
date:
location:
22/04/16
PIAZZA OGNISSANTI 50M
time: The roof-top bar at the Westin Excelsior
4:10 PM
Florence is a relaxing perch to escape the crowds, and enjoy an aperitivo overlooking the city.
date:
10/05/16
location:
MONT PILATUS 2119M
time:
2:50 PM
"This mountain is like Swiss Cheese". While most visitors climb to the top of Mont Pilatus via the historic cog railway, the military tunnels allow for a totally protected climb from the lake. From this tunnel, it's hard to imagine wartime in this fairytale setting.
date:
location:
time: LAC Lugano Arte e Cultura - the incredible
12/05/16
LAC LUGANO 278M
6:05 PM
galleries of Lugano’s contemporary art museum. The window frames a beautiful landscape of Lago Ceresio & Monte Bré.
date:
location:
time: The striking contrast of the first flowers of
10/06/16
REGLIBERG 1680M
3:30 PM
spring and new-fallen snow in the Gรถschenertal. We have always thought the Swiss flag should be green, white & blue.
date:
11/06/16
location:
LORETO LUGANO 274M
time:
10:00 AM
For one weekend in June, Lugano is filled with more people in traditional costume, than modern dress, for the Federal Choir Festival. Its especially surreal at 11pm on a Saturday night, when you are the only person in street clothes!
date:
18/06/15
location:
OBERALETSCH 1756M
time:
4:25 PM
Highland Cattle grazing above the Aletsch Glacier; access to these remote meadows was once across the ice, but after the glacier receded in 1973, it was necessary to blast a new trail through the rock walls of the Massa Gorge for the livestock
date:
21/06/16
location:
BREITHORN 4164M
time: Summer solstice and one of the longest days of the year provides plenty of time for
1:15 PM
summiting 4000m peaks. UIAGM guide Roman Haltinner shining amongst the natural castles of Zermatt.
date:
29/06/16
location:
BELLINZONA 229M
time:
10:00 AM
Bellinzona's castles (a UNESCO heritage site) are considered amongst the finest examples of medieval fortification architecture in Switzerland. Perfectly restored, and an utter lack of tourists, this is how we like to experience history.
date:
location:
time: And they say St. Moritz is all fur coats and
28/06/16
ALP SUVRETTA 2211M
5:30 PM
Dom Perignon…I guess we’ll just keep these empty trails, wild streams and beautiful peaks all to ourselves.
date:
location:
time: A bird's-eye view of Lago di Como, where
01/07/16
MONTE GRONA 1736M
3:30 PM
high above the glitz and glamour lies a seemingly endless network of hiking trails and welcoming Italian Refugios.
date:
location:
time: Summer evenings in Zurich on the River
02/07/16
RATHAUSBRĂœCKE 411M
7:15 PM
Limmat. Did you ever wish time could stand still? From the Zum Storchen Hotel, you can enjoy this view as long as you want, they have been there for more than 650 years
date:
05/07/16
location:
VITZNAU 435M
time:
7:55 PM
Sunset cocktail cruise aboard a Belle Epoque steam ship on Lake Luzern, followed by a stay at quite possibly the most luxurious hotel in Switzerland - the Park Hotel Vitznau, - sounds like a good plan to us!
date:
location:
time: It doesn't get much more Swiss than this, a
08/07/16
COL DE MILLE 2472M
2:30 PM
glass of Fendant at an alpine refuge in the height of the summer. "Water of the Alps" makes you see things in a different perspective!
date:
location:
time: A country proud of its postal service; the
11/07/16
ANDERMATT 1447M
10:05 AM
daily journey of the Gotthard Post Coach from Andermatt to Airolo via the Gotthard Pass 2106m, as seen from a cozy room at the Coldesina’s Bären Inn & Restaurant.
date:
12/07/16
location:
MALS VINSCHGAU 1052M
time:
8:00 AM
Here in Vinschgau, part of SĂźdtirol - Alto Adige, the residents are Italian citizens but don't feel they belong to the Italian culture, state, nor language - their identity is Tyrolian. Not sure if we are in Italy, Austria or Switzerland, but we like it!
date:
location:
time: A warm welcome to the Dolomites, with a
12/07/15
LAGO DU CAREZZA 1519M
8:00 PM
firey alpenglow on the Latemar Group. Local legend refers to the rainbow lake and the magical mermaid trapped inside, with this view, we would believe anything!
date:
14/07/16
location:
REFUGIO FANES 2060M
time:
5:00 PM
The final leg of the epic Fanes-SennesBraies Loop between Alta Badia & Cortina, a "grueling" day of incredible beauty, 2 lunches, 4 refugios and more than 2000m of climbing on WW1 army roads and singletrack. Well worth it for these views!
date:
16/07/16
location:
MERANO SĂœDTIROL 325M
time:
4:00 PM
Escaping the 100 degree heat at the best hotel you have never heard of; the 5* Castel Fragsburg, an elegant oasis and historic Tirol hunting lodge overlooking the vineyards of the Alto Adige and sheer peaks of the Vinschgau.
date:
20/07/16
location:
MORCOTE 273M
time:
6:00 PM
From the lakeside village of Morcote, the 404 steps above the Chiesa Santa Maria del Sasso lead to the idyllic Alp Vicania, a great way to build an appetite for lunch of local specialties and wine from the adjacent Castello di Morcote.
date:
location:
time: The mountain pass between Gruyeres and
23/07/16
COL DE JAMAN 1512M
9:30 AM
Montreux was once a bustling trade route; today the train passes through a tunnel, and life continues for the famers on top of the pass just as it did in the 1800’s.
date:
location:
time: Life is too short to always stick to the path.
28/07/16
LA MARLENAZ 1910M
2:20 PM
Our young friend App leads the way, breaking trail through wildflower meadows, looking for adventure.
date:
30/07/16
location:
JUNGENALP 1955M
time:
5:25 PM
High above the Mattertal, small villages perched on cliffsides; until the onset of the last "mini-ice age" in the 15th century, Jungenalp was o year round habitation. Access to the valley was by steep footpath until 1983, when a small cable car was constructed to reach the summer pastures.
date:
01/08/16
location:
TSCHRĂ„MILONGA 1929M
time:
11:00 AM
FĂŞte National Suisse - Bundesfeiertag, AKA Swiss 4th of July. On the 1st of August, the Swiss celebrate their independence by escaping to the Alps, and consuming copious amounts of cheese & local wine and lighting bonfires on mountain-tops. We celebrate with some of the best singletrack in the Valais!
date:
05/08/16
location:
FONDATION BARRY, MARTIGNY 467M
time: At the base of the Grand St. Bernard Pass
11:30 AM
in Martigny, the breeding kennel of the carries on the lineage of the legendary rescue dogs; each year around 20 pedigree puppies are born at the kennel.
date:
location:
time: In our home valley of Bagnes we take
12/08/16
VAL DE BAGNES 821M
7:00 PM
cheese very seriously, so why wouldn't there be a special horse-drawn calèche (carriage) that serves fondue while you tour the farming villages?
date:
location:
time: Tens of thousands of tourists ride the
14/08/16
ALPGSCHWĂ„ND 1215M
10:55 AM
steepest cog railway in the world to the summit of the Pilatus every year, but very few actually "see" the mountain, its people, cows and traditions.
date:
location:
22/08/16
CHALET DES CHÉSERYS 1998M
time: The one, the only Chamonix-Mont Blanc on
11:25 AM
a scorching August afternoon. Glaciers melting, new plant species arriving, what will this valley look like in 100 years?
date:
03/09/16
location:
ST. LUC 1655M
time:
6:15 PM
If only all hotels were family-managed and cared for like the Grand Hotel Bella Tola in the Val d'Anniviers. Anne-Franรงoise and Claude Buchs-Favre have renovated a Belle Epoque beauty, and restored a tradition of hospitality often lost in this modern age.
date:
15/09/16
location:
KALBERALM 2248M
time:
12:20 PM
In the Ortler Region of Sulden, Sßdtirol, on a stormy late-summer afternoon, it’s hard to tell what country you are in. But this little character tells you that mountain folks are all the same, and welcomes us into a cozy alpine hut for soup and tea.
date:
18/09/16
location:
REFUGIO CRĂŠTE SĂˆCHE 2385M
time:
12:30 PM
One of our favorite Sunday activities crossing the border to Valle d'Aosta for a foodie adventure, whether it's Fontina d'Alpage or Nebbiola from Donnas, it never ceases to amaze us how the Italians express themselves through food & drink.
date:
25/09/16
location:
COL FERRET 2272M
time:
4:05 PM
Following spread: Separating the Val ferret (IT) from the Val Ferret (Switzerland) is perhaps one of the most spectacular vantage points in the Alps. Here, looking towards Monte Bianco, as we traverse the border without another soul in sight.
date:
location:
time: Descending from the Italian / Swiss border
25/09/16
LA CHAUDIĂˆRE 2460M
4:05 PM
on the Grand Col Ferret, a moor-like landscape well-suited for sheep-herds and an ancient footpath buffed smooth by centuries’ of use.
date:
04/10/16
location:
BRUSON 1330M
time:
7:20 PM
Our backyard forest in Bruson is renowned for some of the best mushroom hunting in all of Switzerland. The feeling of satisfaction of foraging for your supper is hard to put to words, you will just have to join us for a "hunt".
date:
location:
time: Indian Summer meant an extra long graz-
10/10/16
BOVEIRE D’EN BAS 2230M
1:15 PM
ing season in the neighborhood. Last day on the Alp for these HĂŠrens cows; in our opinion, their summer pasturage occupies some prime property & views!
date:
16/10/16
location:
LE TSEPPI 1793M
time:
4:40 PM
The first snowfall that sticks in the fall kicks the changing foliage into high gear. Golden larch trees at altitude are the first to go, and offer a striking contrast to the frosted Mont Rogneux, our backyard alpine peak. The singletracks are still in prime condition until the next snow, when will that be?
date:
01/11/16
location:
FAFLERALP 1795M
time:
3:05 PM
The isolated Lรถtschental Valley hangs above the border of the Valais and the Bernese Oberland, and gives us one last day of fall mountain biking in the densest larch forests we have found. A week later, we would have our skis out.
date:
location:
time: Cruising another flawless singletrack in the
02/11/16
TELLIALP 1865M
1:30 PM
Valais, with the Bietschhorn (3994m) looming in the distance. Days like this make the wait for winter to arrive not so bad.
date:
location:
time: Another ski season is underway, and while
13/11/16
FONTANEY 2438M
11:00 AM
you may have your rock skis out for earlyseason conditions, when the turns are as smooth as these, it’s hard not to feel like it’s already mid-winter and let ‘em rip.
date:
20/11/16
location:
FONDATION GIANADDA 475M
time:
3:15 PM
Borrowing from world-class museums and private collections, the Fondation Gianadda in Martigny is our closest fine art museum. This fall, we were privileged to experience a Picasso retrospective of portraits from his final years, many never exhibited together before.
date:
22/11/16
location:
GRAN SOMETTA 3088M
time:
4:05 PM
Last rays of sun on another magical earlyseason powder day in Cervinia, Italy. The Italian side of the Matterhorn, or Cervino as they call it, often gets southern storms in November that give us a good reason to go for a mission to test the legs and work out the kinks!
date:
23/11/16
location:
STRADA DELLE GALLIA, DONNAS 322M
time:
10:30 AM
The Roman Road that connected the Po River Valley to the alpine regions was built by Emperor Augustus. The nearly 2000 year-old archway near Donnas is well-preserved, and the wagon-ruts make you feel that time is an insignificant measure compared to this accomplishment.
date:
03/12/16
location:
LA CHAUX VERBIER 2266M
time: Dress like Santa and ski for free - this year
12:15 PM
Verbier broke the record for the number of St. Nick’s on the slopes. Hey, if the Pope can telemark, then Santa can mono-ski!
date:
17/12/16
location:
TEATRO ROMANO, AOSTA 591M
time: Christmas market in the Roman Amphithe-
5:30 PM
ater of Aosta, vin brulĂŠ with the fading sunset over Monte Bianco, setting the stage for the holidays to come.
date:
20/12/16
location:
LAC DE CHAMPEX 1466M
time:
2:05 PM
Alpine black ice is a rare treat, it’s here and then it’s gone, catch it while you can.
date:
location:
time: Winter Solstice sunset split in half by the
21/12/16
ZERMATT 1616M
4:45 PM
Matterhorn. It’s no wonder that ancient civilizations found sacred meaning in the angle of the sun on this day.
Epic Europe specializes in providing singular bespoke travel experiences for small private groups in the historic epicenters of adventure in the Swiss Alps and beyond. www.epiceurope.com | info@epiceurope.com
date:
20/03/16
location:
WINKELMATTEN 1672M
time:
11:45 PM
On the night of the vernal equinox, the astronomic first day of spring, the night sky put on quite a show above our favorite mountain. Meanwhile, the snowcats groomed the pistes for skiers while the village of Zermatt slept soundly.