Cigars | Wine

VOLUTES

It’s late afternoon in Mayfair, when foreign shoppers and suited pedestrians turn into patrons across London bars. The lights dim across for quiet conversation, and lovers choose a corner for intimate chats. An Italian cigar sommelier has surrendered himself into a dark leather chair at the Connaught Cigar Merchants. Signor Giuliano Santilli is off duty, smoking Quai d’Orsay 54 and, like a gentleman, offers me the same and a dry Negroni. “Or will you prefer a Manhattan with a Smoking Twist?” He almost charms me out of my usual.

Tito serves us olives and Taralli flavoured with chilli and parmesan for our aperitivo.

While I light my cigar with a match, the pin-holed floor catches my attention. It’s designed by Bryan O’Sullivan Studio with a Swiss extraction system. Solid oak panelling. You may recognise the quality from other cigar clubs; DeArt of Italy crafted the room, the cigar lockers, the humidors, and spirit shelves. DeArt: this humble North Italian family company is eponymous in the cigar world; they really brought the gold standard in for humidor boxes and walk-in humidors.

“Look at the lighting.” Subtle, elegant, and warm. Nothing of the piercing LED nonsense in this haven. “The ceiling matches the flooring. The warm wood embraces us, like an exquisite log cabin in Mayfair.” The barman even offers me a blanket as the extraction is quite cold.

Ornate bottles of vintage Armanacs, Cognacs and Japanese whiskeys adorn the wall behind the barman. The resident Master of Cigars has sourced an impressive collection of Cubans despite the restrictions. Cohibas and Montecristos for miles, and then aged and rare. Let’s not mention them!

Ashing our smokes into a smoked glass Lalique ashtray, we talk on the very serious subject of Cubans. The main issue is how to avoid our favourite sticks from being smoked out of existence. The riots in Cuba, the subsequent export restrictions and price hikes on the emporium have made it difficult for many of us to source and hold quantities of Cuban cigars. Many people have pushed themselves into New World cigars. I could name a few enjoyable sticks. However, in London my favourite haunts are only usually sampling Cubans.

A few days later we’re in North Italy smoking a Montecristo with Silvano and Massimo de Munari, mesmerised by a polished wooden music box playing Mozart. They’ve heard them over and again, but still listen! The tone is unlike any music of today. It is warm to the ears, innocent. Then there’s the ticking of a few Grandfather clocks; gilt details and colours I’ve never seen. “Come and see the factory.” De Munari ushers us into his company’s fastidious warehouse full of machines and pre-fabricated constructions; jewel boxes in raw Spanish cedar, coated in resin and sanded: an entire walk-in humidor in its final stages and even yacht interiors numbered with codes.

He shows me parts due for the Azimut S7. He explains, “You will understand when you see the boat put together. We have the design and we label the pieces like this, to give the assembler the chance to make it quickly in Torino where their factory is.” Azimut is one of Italy’s prizewinning yacht makers, known for elegant seafaring lines, super-luxury interiors designed for aesthetics and comfort.

Fast forward to Salone Nautico in Genova. It’s sunny and we’re on board the Azimut S8. A private luxury villa on water. The deck is smooth under the feet, the carpet is thick and bouncy. Velvet headboards, silk linens, polished-wood drawers and marble ensuites. We open the wardrobes and we recognise the S7 constructions back in the factory. The hanging space graded like the side of the boat and the panels are removable for any works that are required by engineers.

The interiors for San Lorenzo Blue Game 54 is also the work of DeArt craftsmen. After the easy charm of this boat, the first thing we notice is the difference in design style. The main deck window is an industry standard inward facing panel like a tug boat. All the metallic touches are finished in a warm tone to evoke cosiness. “The boat is designed for weeks at a time, you want to feel at home.” v

Leila Russack our cigar afficianado is a local resident and avid cigar smoker, prolific in creating dark disco as Miss Zagato in her analog studio (Oraculo Records, La Dame Noir, Kyma) and Bossa Nova in a smoking garden surrounded by Hydrangeas, Daphnes, Wisteria, Hostas and poppies. With Volutes she takes us into the world of cigars.

< Photo: Vianney Le Caer

The Connaught Cigar Merchants

Oscuro at The Arts Club

San Lorenzo Blue Game 54

Group Wine Director for Caprice Holdings, Terry Kandylis, has 20 years of experience within the drinks industry. He was awarded UK Sommelier of the Year in 2016, Greek Sommelier of the Year in 2015, and was a semi-finalist in the Best Sommelier of Europe competition. Kandylis started his career in his native Greece, where he worked in several fine-dining restaurants before moving to the UK in 2010.

Whether you travel from Athens to Zakynthos or beyond, you will not find a more anticipated restaurant opening than Richard Caring’s Bacchanalia. Our Editor, Christina Raptis, speaks with the charming Terry to discover more.

Nectar of the Gods BACCHANALIA

Kissed by the gods, inspired by the muses, Bacchanalia, the brand-new restaurant concept from Caprice Holdings, has just opened at One Mount Street, bringing an unforgettable dining destination to the heart of London. Offering an immersive experience, Bacchanalia celebrates exceptional Greek and Italian cuisine, exquisite wines, and exuberant revelry.

Richard Caring’s latest restaurant transports diners into another world of heightened senses and imaginings and features a breath-taking dining room like no other. A grand and glorious space filled with 2,000-year-old antiques, spectacular giant sculptures by world-leading artist Damien Hirst, and an array of both period and modern Greek and Roman art. Bacchanalia is a unique restaurant, where celebrating Bacchus the God of Wine and pleasure is at the epicentre of the Italian and Greek cuisine and culture on offer.

Bacchanalia is the place to discover several rare and distinctive wines with 650 different references on the menu. The wine programme mirrors the journey of the vine from the ancient world of Greece, where individuals first domesticated and started trading wine, through to Rome where the Romans spread the vine culture even further to reach every corner of the so-called Old World. The journey doesn’t stop in the renowned vineyards of Europe but continues to the famous regions of the New World, where the vine is celebrated in the same fashion.

Their selection of Greek wines focus on native varieties that will surprise and delight guests with their unique flavour profiles and elements. At the core of the offering are the Italian wines, with two amazing collections named Apollo and Bacchus, paying tribute to the gods of light and wine respectively.

Apollo’s collection is the largest Antinori’s Solaia collection that has ever been put together in the UK, with over 45+ references including large formats of up to six litres and vintages coming directly from the winery to Bacchanalia. There is also a wide selection of other Super Tuscan wines including several vintages from the iconic estates of Sassicaia and Ornellaia. The sunniest plot of the Antinori’s Tignanello estate in Tuscany is the best ambassador to celebrate the God of Light, as Galileo Galilei famously said, “Wine is sunlight, held together by water.”

Bacchus’s collection is a magnificent selection of the ‘perfect’ Italian 100-point wines - these score the maximum points in the ground-breaking Parker System by renowned wine critic Robert Parker, Bacchanalia houses the largest collection of Wine Advocate 100-point wines in London. Wines include both vintages of Giacomo’s Conterno Barolo Monfortino (2004 & 2010), Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2016 and Sassicaia 1985 amongst others.

Guests will also be able to taste a selection of own-label Bacchanalia wines including two champagnes, red, whites, and rosé. Bacchanalia is sure to be the hottest ticket in town and we’ve not even mentioned the fabulous Greek and Italian food that the restaurant promises, I for one can’t wait to experience it. YAMAS!

THE HUT

For those in the know

It is no understatement to say that the British love a party. What’s incredible to me is the lengths people will go to for one. And then I discovered The Hut. The bestknown secret in the culinary world. This Isle of Wight institution is full to the brim with the cognoscenti trailblazing to the tiny island in search of fabulous food, a mediterraneanstyle location, and memories for a lifetime.

The success of the restaurant reflects its two owners - George and Matt Adams - both have an easy smile and a very welcoming attitude. A trait that permeates through the whole team from Steve who heads up operations to each bar and wait staff member.

The smart set arrive at the restaurant via their tender - while scheduled trains to Lymington or Southampton allow for easy access on the ferry. The Hut is all about water’s edge dining and escaping. George and Matt Adams must have seen the classic Kevin Costner movie - Field of Dreams - where he’s told, ‘If you build it, they will come’ and boy do they come to The Hut - in their throngs.

The Hut is an easy-going beach restaurant that serves an unrivalled passion for simple yet delicious food, in a relaxed, beach-front location with stunning views.

Serving delicious fresh seafood and grilled meats in an alfresco and buzzy atmosphere, the Hut creates a unique dining experience which is informal but unforgettable.

There is no big secret to the culinary success - Chef Ian Daw uses fresh ingredients which are carefully prepared to create simple yet flavourful dishes - accompanied, of course, by a signature glass of rose!

The Hut makes its guests feel like they have gone on holiday when they have just gone out for lunch.

His skill in combining the classics with creative touches ensures that the food remains the focal point.

Seafood, naturally at this seafront location steals the show. Dishes including Whole Sea Bream with Mussel & Fennel Ragu, Orange Dressing, Seabass Fillet served with Pak Choi, Fregola, Coconut & Kaafir Lime Sauce are favourites. The more adventurous like Spicy grilled Spatchcock Korean Poussin, Choi Sum, Chilli & Jasmine Rice.

The star of the show is their Seafood Platter - abundant and decadent - best shared with friends.

Chef Ian tells me that a recent special he added to the menu - Indonesian Curry - was so popular that almost 80 out of 100 guests opted for it. Guests were calling and asking for it to be placed on the menu permanently!

It’s not just the seafood and fish though, Sunday Roasts are a huge hit, complete with perfectly cooked roast potatoes. Their rooftop bar with panoramic views and creative cocktails is the perfect setting to pass away endless hours.

The Hut is only open seasonally from April to the end of October and booking a table is a must. The fabulous seafood restaurant The Hut which I sadly only just discovered, is celebrating their 10-year anniversary next year - apparently a lot of people do know!