SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 December 4–10, 2015
Sweet Treats
for Holiday Giving on
D6
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Hang On to Your Dreams,
Whatever It Takes
Daniel Mrakovcic in front of a reproduction of “An Architectural Caprice” by Francesco Guardi at Piccolo Fiore. COURTESY OF MARIA NUBILE
At Piccolo Fiore, Daniel Mrakovcic continues his grandfather’s legacy
S
ome dreams cannot be pried loose; they cling stubbornly until they come alive. Nick Nubile gave most of his work life to construction. In the early 1950s, when he moved from Italy’s Abruzzo region to the United States, construction was where the paycheck was. But as he entered his 70s, finally retired, his long-held dream of opening his own restaurant would not let go. “Everybody told him, ‘Don’t do it, don’t do it,” his
wife Maria Nubile said, “but he wanted to have a restaurant—and here we are.” In an industry known for its punishing hours and bringing even the young to their knees, Nick opened Piccolo Fiore, in Midtown East, eight years ago. He named it little flower in Italian, after his favorite Italian song. See Dreams on D2
W i Din n at ner Nick Nubile (R) worked in construction for decades. In his 70s—and retired—he decided to open a restaurant.
Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
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Wellfleet Oysters “Fire n Ice” With Cranberry Mignonette.
Hang On to Your Dreams,
Whatever It Takes Dreams continued from D1 It is not exactly a small place, either. For Manhattan and especially Midtown, it is a spacious restaurant, with multiple dining rooms of different sizes. In the largest one, the Capriccio Room, which seats 120, guests dine within a warm romantic glow and under the eyes of reproductions of painted ladies immortalized by Renaissance master painters Raphael, Bronzino, and Da Vinci. Plenty of elbow room between tables allows for private conversations. And unlike most old-school restaurants, the feel is modern. In the smaller Papaveri Room, which seats 18, beautiful images of red poppies decorate the white backdrop, which reflects the natural light from outside.
at
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
Childhood Summers In the summers Maria would take her grandchildren to Scafa, the town in Abruzzo where she grew up. It was there that Mrakovcic acquired a real passion for Italian food. Among his chores were to gather the fruit (from the backyard) and help his grandmother in the kitchen—his favorite activity. “The most valuable things I learned from her
230 E. 44th St. (between Second & Third avenues) 212-922-0581 piccolofiorenyc.com Hours Monday–Thursday Noon–10:30 p.m. Friday Noon–11 p.m. Saturday 4 p.m.–11 p.m. Friday 4 p.m.–9:30 p.m.
COURTESY OF MARIA NUBILE
Spicy Northeast
Piccolo Fiore
Nick Nubile named Piccolo Fiore after his favorite Italian song.
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Deliciously Sponsored
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Continuing the Legacy Though Nick passed away, his grandson Daniel Mrakovcic has kept his grandfather’s legacy alive, all while dreaming up a future of his own in the culinary arts. Mrakovcic, a tireless sous-chef at Piccolo Fiore and graduate of Johnson & Wales, has a keen penchant for crafting creative tasting menus. In the future, he envisions opening a small, casual tasting-menu-only restaurant. At Piccolo, he is bridging the old and new, bringing modern techniques to the kitchen, while retaining the traditional flavors. Though only 23, he has been in the restaurant business longer than many people of his age have had jobs—he was in his teens when he started working at the restaurant and was 14 when he decided to become a chef. As if the daily routine was not enough, Mrakovcic loves taking on catering jobs of all sizes and cooking for large parties. “He has a passion for this,” said Maria. “He’s a hard worker just like his grandfather. Now that I’m with him, I see so much of [Nick].”
Though a United Nations clientele lunches here, Piccolo Fiore is still a hidden gem.
were how to tell the perfect ripeness of fruit and how to make pasta from scratch,” Mrakovcic said. At Piccolo Fiore, the menu reflects both Old World and New World. Under executive chef Gianfranco Raicovich, the menu leans toward traditional Italian, with a few specialities from Nick and Maria’s native Abruzzo, and some nods to Italian-American dishes like chicken parm. One of the Abruzzo specialties includes the hearty and comforting Maccheroni Alla Chitarra, with Sunday gravy made using Maria’s recipe. Usually started early on a Sunday morning (hence the term Sunday gravy), a big pot of tomatoes and herbs would simmer on the stove, waiting to indulge peckish guests who would tear off chunks of bread and dip them in for a snack. The dish is served with a meatball (made with veal, pork, and beef), sausage, and braciole—braised rolls of flank steak so tender you only need a fork. The pasta is made at the restaurant, by pressing a sheet of dough through what looks like a box with guitar strings. Other long-standing favorites include the Linguine de Mare with calamari, shrimp, clams, and scallops in a spicy marinara sauce, and the signature Fettucine Alla Nicola (a favorite of Nick’s), with portobello mushrooms, veal ragu, and truffled pecorino. Among the entrees, the Agnello Scottadito also finds its origin in the Abruzzo region— roasted lamb chops with a chianti glaze and potato gratin. The popular whole branzino, garnished with smoked sea salt, olive oil, and fresh thyme, is served tableside. As a recent special, Mrakovcic served roasted breast of pheasant—an exacting, demanding bird—with caramelized Brussels sprouts, candied pistachios, and an orange-strawberry gastrique, topped with thin slices of bright edible orchid and pear farro. Perhaps in contrast to the simpler and more rustic dishes on the menu, this one was complex and subtle, with layers of different textures—but just as delicious. If there’s one thing Mrakovcic wants diners to know, it’s, “If they want something specific they can request it.” Should certain ingredients not be available that day, Mrakovcic will put in a special order on short notice. For power lunches, a three-course menu
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
The 120-seat Capriccio Room, decorated with Renaissance art reproductions, can accommodate small and large parties.
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Maccheroni Alla Chitarra, a specialty of the Abruzzo region of Italy.
Mango and raspberry gelati with housemade “pizzelle.” SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
starting at $22 lets you get business done in a tasteful setting. Piccolo Fiore’s five-course tasting menus lets diners get a taste of the chef’s seasonal specials. Holiday Specials The restaurant has a remarkable deal on a fivecourse dinner for Christmas Eve, at $58 per person. Fresh Maine lobster is the star (baked oreganata style or spicy, fra diavolo style). And there’s not only that, but also antipasto of baked clams, fried calamari, cheeses to whet the appetite; then zuppetta di vongole (with littleneck clams and white wine) and linguine all’aragosta (with lobster sauce and fresh tomatoes); finishing off with spumoni baked Alaska. The five-course Christmas Day Feast (also $58 per person) has decadence and celebration as the theme, with Maine lobster bisque, sea scallop salad with shaved fennel, blood orange, and balsamic vinegar; handcut pap-
pardelle with mushroom, duck sugo, sage, and pecorino; grilled filet mignon with chianti glaze, asparagus, and gratin; and finished off with an apple sundae. The New Year’s Eve five-course gala tasting dinner promises to be an affair to remember with live music and of course, a champagne toast to ring in the New Year. Diners can expect choices that recall some of the best of Italy: Daniel Mrakovcic’s bufala mozzarella, housemade pappardelle, roasted pheasant breast, with Chateaubriand, slow-braised veal osso bucco, caramelized Maine Lobster Oreganata, free-range chicken Brussels sprouts, “al mattone” or surf ‘n’ turf ($150 per person, candied pistaplus $20 for surf ‘n’ turf; beverages, tax, and chios, and gratuity not included). orange-strawberry Though a United Nations clientele lunches “gastrique.” here, Piccolo Fiore is still a hidden gem—especially as it is currently covered by scaffolding—so look for the bright, festive lights outside to find it. Best of all—under the family’s care—it is upscale, attentive, and familial all at once. SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu
Agnello Scottadito, lamb chops with Chianti glaze and potato gratin. SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Morton’s World Trade Center
Midtown 551 Fifth Avenue 212-972-3315
World Trade Center 136 Washington Street 212-608-0171
Great Neck 777 Northern Boulevard 516-498-2950
White Plains 9 Maple Avenue 914-683-6101
mortons.com A painting of red poppies graces the Papaveri Room, which seats 18.
Hackensack One Riverside Square 201-487-1303
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MEATBALL & BEER CHOWDOWN Time Out magazine is hosting a meatball and beer tasting, featuring the following restaurants’ meatballs: Houston Hall, The Ainsworth, Brother Jimmy’s BBQ, Atwood Kitchen and Bar Room, and the Crave.it cafe in Chelsea. Craft beer from Greenpoint Beer Works will be served.
stuff to eat and drink around town
Sunday, Dec. 6 Session times: Noon–2 p.m., 2:30 p.m.–4:30 p.m., 5 p.m.–7 p.m. Houston Hall 222 W. Houston St. Tickets: $35 eventbrite.com (search “Meatball and Beer Chowdown”)
FRANCOIS PAYARD PARIS CAKE Pastry chef François Payard has created a special Liberty Holiday Cake to celebrate his native country France and his second home, New York City. The cake is made of dark chocolate Chantilly and layers of praline, with a crème brûlée center. The entire cake is covered in Valrhona dark chocolate mousse made from rare white cocoa beans. The cake comes in a box decorated with New York City’s skyline on the outside, and Paris’s famous landmarks on the inside. A portion of the proceeds will go to the International Red Cross to support those affected by the recent Paris terrorist attacks.
COCOA IN THE CITY The Brooklyn Historical Society is hosting food writer Sarah Lohman to talk about the history of chocolate making. A panel of chocolate makers and confectioners will also discuss how they create their truffles and chocolate bars, with tastings included.
François Payard bakeries Delivery available in Manhattan, $125, serves 8 payard.com
Thursday, Dec. 10 7 p.m.–9 p.m. Brooklyn Historical Society 128 Pierrepont St., Brooklyn Tickets: $12 eventbrite.com (search “Cocoa in the City”)
COURTESY OF CANELE BY CELINE
INSTITUTE OF CULINARY EDUCATION HOLIDAY COOKING CLASSES
Canelés by Canelé by Céline.
The Institute of Culinary Education has full schedule of cooking classes just for holiday entertaining. At the Vegetarian Holiday Dinner class, you can learn how to make dishes like Butternut Squash Ravioli with Chestnut Brown Butter Sauce, and Wild Mushrooms and Fontina Tarts. Or at the In a Nutshell class, you can learn holiday dishes featuring nuts and seeds like PoppyCoated Scallops and Braised Short Ribs with Sweet Potatoes, Prunes, and Chestnuts. For dessert, you can take the Holiday Confections class to learn how to make Old-Fashioned Maple Fudge, Pumpkin Spice Caramels, and all sorts of chocolate bark; or join the Candy Cane Workshop for candy-making with pastry chef Kathryn Gordon. COURTESY OF MAILLE
COURTESY OF DAVID BURKE GROUP
Institute of Culinary Education Brookfield Place 225 Liberty St. Prices vary recreational.ice.edu COURTESY OF INSTITUTE OF CULINARY EDUCATION
Maille’s Chablis White Wine and Black Truffle Mustard. An instructor at the Institute of Culinary Education. COURTESY OF INSTITUTE OF CULINARY EDUCATION
HOLIDAY POP-UP WITH MAILLE AND CANELE BY CELINE French mustard and vinegar maker Maille is joining hands with French pastry maker Canelé by Céline to open a holiday pop-up in midtown Manhattan. For your gift-giving needs, you can choose from mustard gift sets, limited edition jars of Chablis White Wine and Black Truffle Mustard, pastry gift sets, and special savory canelés made with Maille mustard and foie gras. Dec. 2–Dec. 31 Mondays–Fridays, 8 a.m.–7 p.m.; Saturdays, 10 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sundays, noon–6 p.m. 501 Lexington Ave. (at 47th Street) canelebyceline.com maille.com
Holiday confections made at the Institute of Culinary Education.
DAVID BURKE GROUP’S ‘UNVARNISHED’ WINE Chef David Burke’s restaurant group, David Burke Group, is releasing their first private label wine, “Unvarnished.” The wine was created in collaboration with Brooks Winery in Oregon. The wine is a 100 percent pinot noir, with notes of blueberry, dark cherry, blackberry, and plum, and a subtle hint of earthiness. At 13.5 percent ABV, the wine will be sold by the glass and bottle at restaurants under the David Burke Group. David Burke Group restaurants davidburke.com info@davidburke.com
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December 4–10, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com JUSTINE DUNGO
BOULEY RESTAURANT OPEN ON SUNDAYS
PIG AND KHAO NEW BRUNCH MENU AND CHEF SERIES
For the month of December, chef David Bouley is opening his namesake French fine dining restaurant on Sundays. Bouley’s seasonal dishes will be served for lunch and dinner, including Grass-fed Canadian Buffalo with rosemary gnocchi and glazed sweet onions; Forager’s Treasure of Wild Mushrooms with sweet garlic, spices, and grilled toro; and Organic Rabbit Salad with foie gras and riesling dressing.
Pig and Khao, the Southeast-Asian inspired restaurant from Top Chef contestant Leah Cohen, is launching a new brunch menu with Cohen’s take on classic breakfast dishes from the region. These include Banh Xeo, a Vietnamese rice crepe with shrimp, bacon, herbs, pickled carrot, and daikon; and Longsilog, grilled Filipino sausage with sunny side up eggs, garlic fried rice, and tomato cucumber salad. The restaurant is also launching a guest chef series with Cohen’s friends cooking in her kitchen. The first guest chef is Grayson Schmitz, a fellow Top Chef alum, who will serve a five-course menu with dishes like Congee with duck ragu, maitake mushrooms, egg, and soy-foie gras demi glace; Lacquered Pork Cheek with spiced kabocha squash puree, celery, green apple, and herbs; and Semolina Cake with coconut whip cream, mango, and lime powder.
Sundays, through Dec. 27 Lunch: 11:30 a.m.–2:45 p.m. Dinner: 5:30 p.m.–11 p.m. Bouley 163 Duane St. davidbouley.com
Brunch: Saturday & Sunday, 11 a.m.–3:30 p.m. Guest chef dinner with Grayson Schmitz: Sunday, Dec. 13 Tickets: $65 eventbrite.com (search “Chef Series Notorious P.I.G.”)
BRASSERIE CLOSING
Pig and Khao, 68 Clinton St. pigandkhao.com
Since 1959, Brasserie has been serving classic French with a modern twist from within the Seagram building on Park Avenue. But with the expiration of its lease, the restaurant will be closing in January 2016. To celebrate its long history, Brasserie is serving the iconic comfort food dishes that made it famous: French Onion Soup, Quiche Lorraine, and Choucroute, among others.
Leah Cohen, chef-owner of Pig and Khao.
HOLIDAY MARKETS GEORGIA FRIERSON/BROOKLYN FLEA
WINTER FLEA + SMORGASBORG Two popular Brooklyn outdoor markets, Brooklyn Flea and Smorgasborg, are coming together for a joint indoor market at Industry City in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. Thirty smorgasborg vendors will be selling goods and serving food, from Oaxacan tacos to Hong Kong-style waffles to Filipino spring rolls. Vendors will include Ramen Burger, Sunday Gravy, Oaxaca, Lumpia Shack, WOWfulls, Red Hook Lobster Pound, and more. Weekends, through March 2016 10 a.m.–6 p.m. 241 37th St., Brooklyn brooklynflea.com
Brasserie 100 E. 53rd St. patinagroup.com/brasserie
GARMENT DISTRICT Outdoor market organizer Urbanspace has set up a new holiday market at the Garment District. You can shop for holiday gifts made by jewelry, art, and body care vendors, while munching on delectables from Black Iron Burger, Domo Taco (Japanese-Mexican tacos), Mr. Bing (Chinese crepe pancakes), and Bijoux Macarons.
At the Winter Flea market, you can shop for food and gift items. KYLE HUEBBE/SMORGASBURG GEORGIA FRIERSON/BROOKLYN FLEA
Through Thursday, Dec. 24 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Broadway between 39th & 41st streets
QUEENS HOLIDAY MARKET The organizers behind Long Island City Flea (LIC Flea) are putting together a holiday market at the Queens shopping mall, The Shops at Atlas Park. Aside from artisans selling their wares, Michelin-star restaurant Danny Brown Wine Bar and Kitchen and popular street food vendor Arepa Lady will be serving dishes, alongside regular LIC Flea food vendors like Oconomi and Sam’s Fried Ice Cream. Weekends, through Dec. 20 11 a.m.–7 p.m. The Shops at Atlas Park 8000 Cooper Ave., Glendale, NY 11385 facebook.com/LICFlea
ETHAN COVEY
ETHAN COVEY
UNION SQUARE At Union Square, people can shop for food gifts like French truffles from No Chewing Allowed!, organic teas from Miss Tea, chocolate-covered pretzels from Fatty Sundays, and fresh fruit vinegars by Mangé. Food vendors like Wafels and Dinges, Taste of Persia, Arancini Bros., and Bar Suzette will also serve food that you can nosh on as you shop. Through Thursday, Dec. 24 Monday–Friday, 11 a.m.–8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m.–8 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Union Square
Shops at last year’s Union Square Holiday Market.
THE MOMENT WE PLACE THE SUSHI ON THE PLATE, IS THE MOMENT IN WHICH SUSHI CAN BE TRULY UNDERSTOOD. TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
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HOLIDAY
Our best finds for sweet treats, coee, and tea gifts By Annie Wu & Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
The New Umami Experience Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces. Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority. COURTESY OF LEVAIN
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
CLASSICS with FLAIR
Finger-Lickin’ Good Cookies How does Levain make its cookies so impossibly gooey and chewy while still ensuring the batter is fully baked? One may never know, but we’re glad that Levain is here to lift the American chocolate chip cookie to even greater heights. Levain sells assorted gift packages that include classic cookie flavors: chocolate chip walnut, dark chocolate chocolate chip, oatmeal raisin, and dark chocolate peanut butter chip. Packages $27–$71, levainbakery.com
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BÝche de NoÍl If you’re in charge of bringing dessert to a holiday meal, impress the guests with a BÝche de NoÍl (or yule log), the traditional holiday dessert in France. Yes, it is basically a chocolate roll, but with all manner of embellishments. Many patisseries have their own version of the classic treat. Benoit’s pastry chef Jean-Loup Teterel makes his bÝche with a four-spice biscuit, praline feuilletine, chocolate mousse, nibs, orange marmalade, praline glaze, and chocolate shavings—something of a feast for the eyes as well as the tastebuds. Available through Dec. 25. Cakes $40, benoitny.com
Swedish Treats The Swedes are known for their considerable sweet tooth, consuming the most candy per capita in the world. Unna Bakery in Harlem bakes traditional Swedish cookies in small batches, so they’re are always fresh and never greasy. During the holidays, gingersnaps are a must-eat. Unna’s version is crunchy, peppered with almond bits, and only slightly gingery, making it all too easy to keep munching on them. Another treat is the raspberry cave cookie, featuring buttery dough and fresh raspberry jam in the center. Unlike most jam cookies, these don’t have any of that artificial fruit taste.
Fine French cuisine in a romantic and elegant setting, be sure to visit Madison Bistro in Murray Hill, and enjoy Master Chef Claude Godard’s updated traditional bistro fare.
MADISON BISTRO
COUR TES
Raspberry cave box $8, ginger snaps box $10 unnabakery.com
Y OF U N NA
238 Madison Ave. (at 37th Street) madisonbistro.com
Exquisite Trues These beautiful handmade trues impress with not only their exquisite designs, but also their delicate flavors, evocative of eating luscious cakes. Flavors range from the floral Raspberry Rose and Lemon Lavender true, to the dense, yet complex Dominican Republic true. Chocolopolis’s trues, made with singleorigin chocolate, won acclaim at the International Chocolate Awards. Get the Champions Box for a taste of all the winning bonbons (set of 5, $11.99), or to really treat the chocolate lover in your life, get the Assorted Premium True Box for a selection of 16 ($39.99).
Authentic Japanese FREE
Assorted boxes $11.99–$44.99 shop.chocolopolis.com
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
True Shots
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more)
(SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)
6 %00%/1
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE:
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
COURTESY OF TRUFFLE SHOTS
6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
If you know a chocolate fiend who loves eating silky smooth ganache, True Shots are the ultimate gift. Created by a mother-daughter duo in Essex, Connecticut, these nonalcoholic treats are essentially the creamy filling without the chocolate shell, served instead in tall shot glasses. The decadent, melt-in-your-mouth treats come in creative flavors, like the award-winning Caramel Beurre Noisette, made with dark chocolate ganache and a sea-salt-and-brownbutter caramel that provides an intensely nutty flavor; Tellicherry
Cardamom, a magical combination of spicy, fragrant, and sweet; Cassis, with a tart, fruity black currant gelÊe; and Flowers of Sicily, with a vanilla and citrus-flavored white chocolate ganache reminiscent of orange creamsicles. Don’t forget the Signature Dark for a classic dark chocolate that’s just the right balance of bitter and sweet. Because each shot is made fresh to order, they are meant to be consumed within a couple of days. Make sure to schedule your purchase accordingly. Shots $7.50–$9.50 truffleshots.com
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OCTOPUS AFFOGATI WITH LINGUINE Makes 4 servings
COURTESY OF NOBLETREE
My dad Joe has a shellfish allergy, but he can enjoy octopus. His affection for it must be in his Neapolitan blood. Affogati means smothered in Italian, and here the precooked octopus drowned in a tomato sauce. Joe says that wine corks help tenderize the very tough octopus, but that has yet to be scientifically proven. Nonetheless, I’ve never cooked it any other way, so I can’t report if it works or not.
Nobletree CEO John Moore pours coffee at Williams-Sonoma.
From Seed to Sip Coffee connoisseurs know that great coffee is best enjoyed unadulterated; without added milk or sugar, the flavors of the beans sing with the natural qualities of its terroir. Nobletree Coffee, a Brooklyn-based company, grows and harvests beans from their own farm in Ouro Fino, Brazil, allowing them to control every step of the production process. The resulting coffee is clean and complex, with intriguing notes of fruits and nuts, never registering as bitter. Nobletree CEO John Moore explained that the company’s goal is to capture the entire landscape in the coffee’s flavors. “One of the really fun, exciting things about coffee is that it gives you a unique way to taste a place, a people, a foreign—and oftentimes exotic—environment,” he said. Nobletree’s staff selects the seeds, then plants, harvests, roasts, and packages them. “If we could, we would literally grab you,
4 Two 1-pound octopus, heads and beaks removed 4 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 8 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 3 cups Tomato Sauce (page 100) 4 ¼ cup chopped fresh basil 4 Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 1 pound linguine
throw you on a plane, take you down to Brazil with us, take you on a car down the dirt roads, through the farm gates, and have you picking and processing the coffee personally. Short of that experience, this is about as close as you can get,” he added. For the first time, Nobletree is selling exclusive gift sets at Williams-Sonoma’s online store. Get the Cup of Excellence Gift Box, with Nobletree’s Cup of Excellence awardwinning beans, for the coffee lover who only wants the best of the best. For those who are adventurous, get the Pour-over Collection, with three different types of single-origin coffee beans to try. And those who want variations on a beautiful roast will be happily satisfied with the Farm Collection, with roasted, decaf, and espresso beans grown from Nobletree’s farm.
Special equipment: 2 to 4 natural wine corks (not synthetic corks) 1. To cook the octopus: Bring a large pot of water and the wine corks to a boil over high heat.
Gift boxes & collections $59.95–$99.95 Available at williams-sonoma.com nobletreecoffee.com
Add the octopus, reduce heat and simmer at a low boil uncovered for 1 hour. Before draining, reserve and strain ½ cup of the cooking water. Cut the octopus into bite size pieces, and set aside. 2. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat and sauté the garlic for 1-2 minutes, or until golden. Add the octopus, tomato sauce, basil and reserved cooking water. Stir, cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes, or until sauce has thickened. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the linguine and cook according to package directions. Drain well. Return the linguine to the pot. Stir in about half of the tomato sauce and transfer to a large serving bowl. 4. Top the linguine with the remaining sauce and octopus. Serve hot. This recipe can be found on page 95 of my new cookbook “Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook.”
Recipe from
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant.
Panettone
236 W. 56th St. 212-247-3491 www.patsys.com
Cakes $12.60–$26.80 Available at eataly.com
has a new flavor
Holiday in a Cup
COURTESY OF PALAIS DES THES
With its Thé No. 25 collection, Palais des Thés offers a holiday cup that is all comfort. Cozy up with loved ones as you sip a blend perfumed with orange peel, red rose petals, almonds, cloves, vanilla, and other spices. It’s available with a base of black tea, green tea, white tea, or rooibos, or in a caffeine-free infusion—we recommend the black tea. It’s fragrant and citrusy with a hint of spices, but delicate at the same time. The fruit or spices never overwhelm as holiday teas sometimes can ($21 for a 3.5-ounce tin). For something caffeine-free, try the Festive Garden tea. The color is a beautiful light rose, and the fragrance of cocoa is enticing; as you sip, the flavors finish on lightly citrusy and floral notes, from the hibiscus and citrus peels ($27 for a 3.5-ounce tin).
OFFICIAL SOY SAUCE OF
Our sauces are handcrafted and brewed in Hudson Valley NY. We use water sourced from the pristine Catskill Mountain range for flavor you won’t find elsewhere. Wan Ja Shan offers a variety of preservative-free, gluten-free, 100 percent naturally brewed, flavorful organic sauces.
“Best Organic Soy Sauce” -Food and Wine Magazine
palaisdesthes.com
COURTESY OF VALRHONA
Learn From the Masters Valrhona is loved by pastry chefs who use the company’s high-quality, bean-to-bar chocolate to make their confections. In April, the company opened its first U.S. patisserie school in DUMBO, Brooklyn, where it is now offering pastry-making classes to the public. Consider gifting a spot in one of Valrhona’s half-day workshops to your sweet treat-loving friend. Classes are taught by top pastry chefs and limited to 12 people or less. Choose from sessions on making holiday yule log cakes, American bakery classics (brownies, chocolate layer cakes), macarons and petits fours, and Valentine’s Day treats. Classes $159 per person valrhona-chocolate.com
A big, warm, beautiful Italian cookbook with full color throughout, Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook is a great book for those who know the restaurant and love classic Italian dishes.
Natural
COURTESY OF EATALY
Panettone is a traditional holiday cake from Italy, festively wrapped to become a perfect Christmas present. Once you open it, the fragrance of candied fruits and fluffy dough envelops you. At G. Cova & C., a Milan-based company operating since 1930, the tall cake is made with natural yeast and takes at least 30 hours to rise, allowing it to reach maximum fluff. The cake’s lovely texture will have you reaching for a cup of coffee, tea, or dessert wine. Cova’s panettone cakes also come in flavors like cherry; almonds and glazed sugar; and dark chocolate and candied orange peels.
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Serious Hot Pot
The World of Olive Oils, Shipped Fresh to Your Door
Authentic Sichuan “mala tang” will leave you craving more and more.
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
Seriously Addicting
NICHOLAS COLEMAN
The PERFECT Lunch Spot Customize your Hot-Pot with meat or seafood. We also offer a spicy Dried-Pot stirfry. Not a fan of spicy? We have a soup for you! Now you dont have to go to Flushing for a taste of Sichuan flavors. Check us out in Midtown
Manting
150 W. 49th St. 646-921-7777
Limited Time Only Ends Dec. 15th
(subject to availability)
Special Holiday Set
The Hiroshimayaki MOCU-MOCU
CASUAL DINING CAFÉ & SHOP
746 Tenth Ave. (between 50th and 51st Streets) 212-765-0197 Mocu-Mocu.com
A $31 Value Only $23
This traditional Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is not to be missed!
Sevens’ Mixed Grill
The view from the Domenica Fiore villa, overlooking the hilltop town of Orvieto.
For more holiday gift ideas see our
on D6
The first oil to be released for the holidays, and being shipped out at the moment, is from Domenica Fiore. While there he blind tasted 10 separate tanks of its olive oils, harvested at different times and from different plots. “I’ve selected an early hand-harvested monocultivar Canino oil from a single high-elevation grove. The Canino olive is a special cultivar grown between Lazio and Umbria,” he said via email. “It is a very small fruit which ripens later than other cultivars in the region. It has an interesting flavor profile, which is both complex yet balanced with hints of freshly cut grass, almond, artichoke, and a delayed, elongated peppery finish.” For the spring harvest, he will fly to the Southern Hemisphere—likely Chile or Australia. Each 375-milliliter bottle comes with information about the producer, region, cultivar, and harvest date, tasting notes, wine pairing notes regional recipes. It is a revolving selection, so consumers are always receiving new oils. “You end up tasting the world of olive oils,” explained Coleman. $180 annual membership, groveandvine.com
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NICHOLAS COLEMAN
A Turkish Feast
Freshly pressed olive oil at Domenica Fiore in Orvieto, Umbria, Italy. NICHOLAS COLEMAN
Hiroshimayaki + Soup + Pumpkin Obanyaki + Tea / Coffee + Special Present +
If you want to make an olive oil lover happy— over the moon kind of happy—give him or her an annual membership to Grove and Vine. Partners Nicholas Coleman and Dan Amatuzzi are chasing the olive oil harvest around the world, finding the best producers they can, and bringing back fresh olive oil to members, four times a year. You’ll possibly be gifting a life-altering moment. “Anyone who’s ever had fresh olive oil within a couple of weeks of pressing—they’ll always remember where they were, who they were with, what they were eating at the time,” Coleman said. That’s because freshness is one of the key components to quality. “Unlike wine, olive oil does not improve with age,” Coleman said. “Freshness is a key component to quality. The olive is a stone fruit related to the cherry and the plum. In this sense olive oil is a fresh fruit juice.” Amatuzzi, an expert in wines, has seen people’s faces light up when they have a good wine “but it’s wine,” he said. “They know it’s grape juice. With oil, the reaction is remarkable.” The pair has been offering olive oil and wine seminars around the country. Members received olive oil, shipped to their door, never more than a few months after each harvest. That’s a far cry from olive oils sold in many grocery stores, where olive oil can languish on shelves, oxidize, and lose its vibrancy and nuances. Coleman, who also works as the chief oleologist at Eataly NY and has been a judge at international olive oil competitions, has gotten a good feel over the years for the American palate, which recoils from extreme bitterness, for example. He’s just flown back from Italy where he’s working with two producers he loves, Domenica Fiore in Orvieto, Umbria, and Frantoio Franci in Grosseto, Tuscany, to make Grove and Vine’s custom blends.
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Gruyère Crowned CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE Best Cheese at el Pote in the World *valid for dinner 5 pm - 11 pm
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff For the fourth time in 28 years, a Gruyère AOP Premier Cru has clinched the World Champion Trophy at the World Cheese Awards held from Nov. 25 to 29 in Birmingham, England. It’s no mean feat for this Swiss alpine cheese from Cremo SA’s von Mühlenen brand. It was chosen from 2,727 entries, and narrowly beat out—by just one point—a Tomme Chevre Brebis, from Onetik in the French Basque country, and a burrata from La Credenza, a London-based importer. Bob Farrand, the awards founder, sat on the final jury. He praised the nuttiness and fruitiness of the winning cheese, saying, “the flavor just kept going and going,” according to a press release. Italian judge Davide Fiori said, “I love this cheese because it’s not just for eating—it’s for talking about with friends. The taste tells you so much about the pasture it comes from.” The World Cheese Awards is organized by the UK-based Guild of Fine Food. Over 250 cheese experts from 22 countries participated as judges. Next year’s awards take place in San Sebastián, Spain. For the list of winners, see gff.co.uk/awards/ world-cheese-awards
The big cheese: von Mühlenen's Gruyère AOP Premier Cru. COURTESY OF THE GUILD OF FINE FOOD
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
COURTESY OF THE GUILD OF FINE FOOD
Judges tasted 2,727 entries.
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DRINK TO YOUR
HEALTH (HAS A NEW MEANING!)
UP YOUR OLIVE GAME
With These Easy Marinated Party Olives Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pomegranate Soju
Olives, four marinated ways (clockwise, from top R): lemonpumpkin seed, toasted garlic, herb and seed, and agrodolce.
By Alison Ladman
container and refrigerate overnight.
We know that when you were a child, you loved shoving those tasteless canned black olives onto the tips of your fingers, then nibbling them o one at a time. And we know that every time you see a bowl of those same tasteless black olives you’re tempted to do it again. Because there is something satisfying about wiggling and nibbling olive-topped fingers. But unless you’re 5, that just doesn’t pass muster during the holiday entertaining season. So instead, we urge you to up your olive game and try serving these easy marinated olives. No finger wiggling needed.
Agrodolce
Marinated Olives Four Ways Total Time: 1 day (10 minutes active)
Makes: About 2 cups
Combine 1 1/2 cups mixed olives, 1/2 cup golden raisins, 1/4 cup olive oil, 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar, 1/4 cup toasted pine nuts, 2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary, 1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic, and the zest and juice of 1 orange. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
In a dry skillet, toast 1 tablespoon caraway seeds and 1 tablespoon fennel seeds until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Mix in 2 tablespoons each of minced fresh rosemary, minced fresh thyme, and minced fresh marjoram. Add 1/2 cup olive oil and 2 cups Sicilian or other large green olives. To completely coat the olives give the mixture a stir, then place in a covered
Sizzling Bulgogi
Toasted Garlic
Combine the zest of 1 lemon, 1/4 cup pumpkin seed oil (or lemon-flavored olive oil), 1/4 cup toasted pumpkin seeds, and 2 cups Castelvetrano olives. Stir the mixture to completely coat the olives and place in a container with a lid or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. From The Associated Press
Coconut Soju
What to Try Tonight... Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pairs well with Cucumber Soju
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Bossam (Braised Pork Belly)
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Secrets of Stir-Frying COURTESY OF CICI LI
By CiCi Li
SOJU HAUS offers traditional, healthy (no msg!) Korean food, and an ambiance that inspires good company and great conversations. While traditional cocktails often deplete the body of nutrients, SOJU HAUS mindfully pairs food and drink for a more balanced effect on your body.
In a small skillet over medium, heat 1/4 cup olive oil. Add 3 tablespoons chopped garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until lightly browned and fragrant. Add to 2 cups Kalamata olives along with 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes and stir the mixture to completely coat the olives. Place in a container, cover with the lid or plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight. Lemon-Pumpkin Seed
Herb and Seed
Made with Red Vinegar, a popular health drink in many Asian countries.
Have you ever tried a chicken dish in a Chinese restaurant and wondered how it could be so tender and juicy? There are tricks behind that. Marinating is one of the most crucial elements in making a great stir-fry. A marinade not only adds more flavor to the meat but also makes it juicier and more tender. Egg yolk, cornstarch, and oil are also important. The egg yolk makes the meat more tender. The cornstarch thickens the sauce and gives it a silky feel. Oil helps to seal in the meat’s juices and gives stir-fried dishes their glossy shine. Here’s a recipe for cashew chicken stirfry—you can recreate that same tender, juicy chicken you find at restaurants with a few simple steps.
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RECIPE
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CASHEW CHICKEN STIR-FRY Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Serves: 2 • 8 ounces chicken breast, cut into cubes • 2 ounces roasted cashew nuts • 1 green bell pepper, cut into bite-sized pieces • 1 onion, cut into bite-sized pieces • 1 scallion stalk, chopped into 1/2-inch pieces • 4 tablespoons oil For the Chicken Marinade
• • • • •
Pinch of salt Pinch of pepper Pinch of sugar 1/2 an egg white 1/3 teaspoon corn starch mixed with 1 tablespoon of water • 2 tablespoons oil For the Sauce
• 1 tablespoon light soy sauce • 1/2 tablespoon dark soy sauce
• 1/3 teaspoon corn starch mixed with 1 tablespoon water • 1 tablespoon oil
DIRECTIONS To marinate the chicken: in a bowl, mix the salt, pepper, sugar, egg white, and cornstarch water. Then add the chicken to the mixture, mixing with a fork or chopsticks for about a minute. Â Then add 2 tablespoons oil to the bowl and marinate for about 10 minutes. To make the sauce: in a bowl, add light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, and cornstarch water, and oil. Mix well. In a hot pan, add 2 tablespoons oil, and then add the chicken cubes over high heat and stirfry until cooked. Remove the chicken from the pan and set aside. In the same pan, add another 2 tablespoons oil, scallions, green bell pepper, onion, and stir-fry for about 2 minutes. Then add the cooked chicken cubes and roasted cashew nuts. Pour the sauce into the pan and stir-fry for another 30 seconds.
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CajunSea’s nautically themed decor.
BE DELIGHTED. BE AT SONGKRAN.
Fish Green Curry
Lunch ✴ Dinner ✴ Delivery ✴ Catering For Reservations / Catering Orders Call 212-239-8792
330 8th Avenue • SongkranKitchenNYC.com
Asian Restaurant Listings UPPER WEST SIDE Raku—It’s Japanese II Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts 57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
THAI
NO MSG
A spread of dishes from CajunSea.
INDIAN
KOREAN
CHINESE
JAPANESE
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com
SRI LANKAN
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MALAYSIAN
Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
Uncle Ted’s 163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
KOREATOWN
SenYa
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com
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Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com
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A Taste of the
VIETNAMESE
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F
inding authentic Cajun food in New York City is a tall order. For reasons unknown, the fascinating meld of French Acadian, Spanish, African, and Native American flavors found in New Orleans hasn’t quite made a presence in this city. But with the opening of CajunSea, a new seafood-focused restaurant in Midtown Manhattan, New Yorkers can finally treat themselves to the richly indulgent, flamboyant dishes of the Big Easy. CajunSea’s owner Sue Choi is the unexpected culinary ambassador and mastermind of the restaurant’s menu. Originally from Seoul, South Korea, Choi first visited New Orleans on a business trip 20 years ago. She immediately fell in love with the fresh seafood and spicy warmth of Cajun cuisine, visiting the city almost every year to try different restaurants’ take on her favorite dishes, like crawfish boil, gumbo, and jambalaya. “The seasoning and flavors: it feels warm when you eat it. It speaks to my Korean tastes,” Choi said, noting how both cuisines possess intensely comforting spices. Choi and her husband, who also own several popular Koreatown restaurants, were so enraptured by Cajun cuisine that they decided to open an eatery that captured the tastes of their favorite New Orleans dishes. The Cajun Boil ($29–$45), for example, comes with the option of either a Classic Cajun sauce (with cayenne pepper, paprika, oregano, and house special seasoning mix), or garlic butter— a decadent twist on the seasoning that is so packed with flavors, you’ll want to dunk everything in it (diners have requested an extra plate of pasta or rice just to finish up the sauce, Choi told us). With a hint of spice, the sauce soaks into the sweet flesh of the seafood, creating a smooth, luxurious combination that melts in your mouth. Choi explained the dish also gets its intensity from a soup base of herbs
CajunSea
32 W. 33rd St. (between Fifth Avenue & Broadway) 212-564-7333 cajunsea.com Hours Monday–Friday 11:30 a.m.–midnight Saturday & Sunday 11 a.m.–midnight Weekend Cajun Brunch: Sat and Sun 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Happy Hour: Daily 5 p.m.–8 p.m.
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ALL NATURAL ORGANIC YOUNG CHICKEN BROTH NO MSG•EVERYTHING HOMEMADE Hinata’s Special
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OPEN 7 Days M-F 11:30am-11:30pm Sat 12:00pm-11:30pm Sun 4:00pm-11:30pm
HinataRamen.com 159 East 55th St. (b/w Lex. & 3rd ave) # 212.355.2974
The Lobster Roll is made with hard-shell lobster from Canada.
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *
AS SEEN ON: The Wall Street Journal, Good Day New York, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave,
(off SW corner of 31st St)
Jambalaya with chicken and Andouille sausage.
Oysters from the raw bar.
New York, NY 10001 (212)594-8939
Awarded
One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
*Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
and vegetables that boils all day. Another dish that gets an update is the po’boy, which here comes with a choice of breaded shrimp, catfish, or oysters. After Choi tried a takeout spot in New Orleans famous for its po’boys, she decided to add some extra oomph to the classic sandwich. At CajunSea the shrimp is fried in a batter laced with spices. The golden breaded shrimp interplays with crisp iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, red onions, and mayo—resulting in maximum crunch in every bite. Choi’s passion for food began as a young child, watching her mother make traditional Korean dishes at home. Today, her passion translates into an avid love of recipe-testing and eating out. When impressed by a dish, Choi tries to recreate it at home. In Cajun cuisine, the freshness of the seafood is imperative. CajunSea has theirs deliv-
Eggs Benedict with Canadian bacon.
On CajunSea’s brunch menu: Waffles and Berries.
ered five times a week, getting top-quality shrimp, lobster, crab, and oysters from Canada and around the United States. During the daily happy hour, oysters are a dollar each, shucked to order. To retain the natural sweetness of the crustaceans, Choi bought a high-tech machine that steams them in only two to three minutes. Her method of steaming rather than boiling the seafood keeps the flesh succulent—never tough or rubbery. In the Seafood Gumbo With Rice, clams reign supreme with their briny sweetness, mixed into the smoky roux with okra, shrimp, and Andouille sausage. It’s the perfect dish to have on a cold, rainy day. Or, as when Choi first tried gumbo in New Orleans, to cure a hangover. Another comforting dish is the Jambalaya, made with chicken and rice soaked in a delicious broth. Choi’s version has a lightly spicy herb seasoning that just slightly tingles on your tongue, while the Andouille sausage and smoked bacon add layers of that muchdesired smokiness. The rice develops a gooey texture from the broth that makes it even more satisfying. True to the New Orleans spirit of eating to your heart’s content, CajunSea delivers on classic dishes that will leave you feeling happily indulged. And there are always plenty of specials to entice you, including a brunch menu, a ladies’ drinks evening, and an all-day deal on a whole steamed lobster ($19.95).
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December 4–10, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
Bring Stuffed Mushrooms Into the Modern Era (and to a Party)
體驗文人墨客的 詩情雅意 ( 二樓 ) 品味朝鮮王朝的 美味佳餚(三樓)
By Sara Moulton
Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
When I was a child and my mom was throwing dinner parties, I noticed that one of her go-to appetizers was stuffed mushrooms. The fungi in the spotlight were plain old white cultivated mushrooms stuffed with a mixture of buttery chopped mushrooms stems, onions, breadcrumbs, and a little dried thyme or cheese. Those button mushrooms seem pretty ho-hum to us today, but back then they were downright exotic, if only because they were the only mushrooms in the store and they fetched a correspondingly serious price. Today, it’s nothing but pastures of plenty. Go the supermarket and you’ll find mushrooms for miles. Even so, as I started developing this recipe, I began with white mushrooms partly as a sentimental nod to “auld lang syne” and partly because those particular mushrooms happen to be the cheapest in the store. Alas, the old standby didn’t have anywhere near the depth of flavor of its more darkly colored cousins, namely cremini mushrooms, also known as baby bella or baby portabella mushrooms. So I went with the cremini. Technique-wise, I was able to apply some of the moves I’ve learned since I cooked with my mom. The first is the proper way to wash mushrooms. It’s similar to washing lettuce.
You fill up a bowl with cold water and toss in a handful of mushrooms. Then, working fast, you swish them all around, lift them out, and transfer them to paper towels to dry. They emerge from this quick communal bath clean and without having absorbed any water. Next, what’s the best way to remove the stems from the mushrooms? With a grapefruit spoon. It may seem weird, but I promise you it’s the right tool for the job. Use it to neatly dig out the stem, leaving a cozy crevice for stuffing— and without splitting the mushroom in half. If you don’t have a grapefruit spoon, use a melon baller. Finally, I must admit that my mom’s stuffed mushrooms were a little soggy sometimes, which left the caps a tad bland. Accordingly, I precook the caps before stuffing them, removing some of their water and helping to intensify their flavor. When it comes to the stuffing itself, below are two options—Spanish and Italian. Both feature pork and cheese. Neither recalls my mom’s recipe, but both are big on flavor and deeply satisfying. Serve them at a Christmas party and wow your guests. I know my mom would approve. From The Associated Press ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
RECIPE ITALIAN-STYLE STUFFED MUSHROOMS Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour (40 minutes active) Makes: 30
212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra • 30 large (1 1/2 inches in diameter) cremini mushrooms • 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion • 2 teaspoons minced garlic • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage • 2 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, finely chopped • 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, coarsely grated • 1 slice firm white sandwich bread, cut into 1/4-inch cubes (about 1/2 cup) • 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional) • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 400 F. Use a bit of olive oil to lightly coat a rimmed baking sheet. Trim and discard the dry ends of the mushroom stems. Remove the stems from the mushroom caps and finely chop them. Arrange the mushroom caps, open sides down, on the oiled pan and bake on the ovens middle shelf for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the chopped mushroom stems and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid the mushrooms release is almost all reduced. Add the sage and prosciutto and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the cheese, bread cubes and red pepper flakes, if using. After the mushrooms have baked for 10 minutes, remove the pan from the oven. Carefully turn the mushroom caps over and divide the stuffing mixture among them, mounding it slightly. Bake the stuffed caps on the oven’s middle shelf for about 15 minutes, or until the mushrooms are tender and the stuffing is golden brown. If the stuffing browns too quickly, cover the mushrooms loosely with foil.
RECIPE SPANISH-STYLE STUFFED MUSHROOMS
Obsessive Attention to Detail T
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus on sushi and excel at the one thing that mattered most.
212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btw madison & 5th Ave.)
Over three decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like.
This recipe uses Spanish chorizo. If all you can find is Mexican chorizo (which is fresh, not smoked and cured like the Spanish), you’ll need to make sure you cook it more thoroughly. Remove the casing, then dice and cook the sausage in the skillet as described in the directions, stirring frequently until you see it’s just cooked through, which may take a few extra minutes.
Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour (45 minutes active) Makes: 30 • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra • 1/4 pound Spanish chorizo sausage • 30 large (1 1/2 inches in diameter) cremini mushrooms • 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion • 1/4 cup dry sherry • 1 slice firm white sandwich bread, cut into 1/4-inch cubes (about 1/2 cup) • 1 ounce Manchego cheese, coarsely grated • 1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 400 F. Use a bit of olive oil to lightly coat a rimmed baking sheet. Trim and discard the dry ends of the mushroom stems. Remove the stems from the mushroom caps and finely chop them. Arrange the mushroom
caps, open sides down, on the oiled pan and bake on the ovens middle shelf for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, remove the casing from the chorizo and dice it. In a medium skillet over medium, cook the diced chorizo, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon transfer the chorizo to a medium bowl. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped mushroom stems and cook until the liquid the mushrooms release is almost all reduced. Add the sherry and simmer until almost all the liquid is reduced. Transfer the vegetable mixture to the bowl with the chorizo and set aside to cool slightly. Stir in the bread, cheese, and parsley, then season with salt and pepper. After the mushrooms have baked for 10 minutes, remove the pan from the oven. Carefully turn the mushroom caps over and divide the chorizo mixture among them, mounding it slightly. Bake the stuffed caps on the oven’s middle shelf for about 15 minutes, or until the mushrooms are tender and the stuffing is golden brown. If the stuffing browns too quickly, cover the mushrooms loosely with foil.