transgressions
NO. 335. THE VICE ISSUE FALL 2015
D i-DEAS, FASHION, MUSIC, PEOPLE
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insi-De the vice issue
succumb to the consequences of your sins
features + fashion 50 lust is a sensation starring grace rokel, lexandra marcela, janelle morgan, gonzalo gelso, kayla willis and jordan chambers photography lloyd shillabeer edited by tonglé dakum styling ashley
chan, sofia molinaro, ericka mcgriff and punya chanana make-up punya chanana text sofia molinaro 68
gluttony starring grace rokela and ali bassir photography lloyd shillabeer edited by tonglé dakum styling ashley chan, sofia molinaro, ericka mcgriff and punya chanana make-up punya chanana and ericka mcgriff hair sofia molinaro text sofia molinaro
84 greed is a bottomless pit starring
hagood coxe and william kesling photography dustin jones edited by tonglé dakum styling ashley chan, sofia molinaro, ericka mcgriff and punya chanana make-up punya chanana and ericka mcgriff text ashley chan 102
sloth: that wicked siren starring brenyce watson and elise kelner
photography matt slade styling ashley chan, sofia molinaro, ericka mcgriff and punya chanana makeup punya chanana and brittany taliaferro hair ericka mcgriff and brittany taliaferro text ericka mcgriff
118 wrath starring brenyce watson, kelsey schmidt, tenielle adderley and ali bassir photography lloyd shillabeer styling ashley chan, sofia molinaro, ericka mcgriff and punya chanana make-up brittany taliaferro, ashley chan, punya chanana and ericka mcgriff hair sofia molinaro text ashley chan 134
envy is an overwhelming emotion starring kate johnson and natalie besl photography honor beeler styling ashley chan, sofia molinaro, ericka mcgriff and punya chanana make-up ericka mcgriff hair sofia molinaro text ericka mcgriff 154
i take a lot of pride in being myself
starring kharlybia roane and tenielle adderley photography kristopher dobbins styling ashley chan, sofia molinaro, ericka mcgriff and punya chanana make-up brittany taliaferro and punya chanana hair ericka mcgriff text punya chanana
Photography Honor Beeler Styling Ashley Chan, Sofia Molinaro, Punya Chanana and Ericka McGriff
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D the vice issue no. 335
The last person I told a lie to was... editor-in-chief punya chanana... my
senior account manager daniel
ny office
i-D united states
part-time boyfriend
fitzgerald...my sister-in-law
managing director, us diana good
99 north 10th street, suite 204,
editorial director, us rory satran
brooklyn, ny 11211
creative director ericka mcgriff... my brother #sorrynotsorry
brand solutions
fashion editor, us tracey nicholson
tel +1 718 599 3101
fashion director sofia molinaro...
head of brand solutions lana elie
marketing manager, us francisca margis
usadvertising@i-d.co
my professor...who has time for
head of creative development bunny
production manager, us essie gibson
kinney
assistant editor, us emily manning
i-D uk
homework?
producer ashley chan... my mother,
head of branded production fiona
oops, sorry mom
sinclair scott
contributors
executive fashion editor james
creative strategist phillip bircham
cass bird, richard burbridge, richard bush, todd cole, petra collins, daniele
mcdermott
new north place, london, EC2A 4JA tel +44 (0) 207 749 7999
i-D australia/new zealand po box 2041, fitzroy, vic 3065
fashion features editor tish weinstock
contributing editors
daleson, delphine danhier, colin
managing editor felix petty
beauty editor gigi wilcox
dodgson, nick dorey, hans feurer, val
casting director diana good... my best
features editor natalie plethora
garland, boo george, guido, oliver
i-D france
friend tracy
arts editor kathy grayson...my son, I
hadlee pearch, george harvey, jamie
magali riboud, studio riboud
designer francesca dunn...i told my
told him he could have a pony
hawkesworth, jeff henrikson, jannes
130 rue de courcelles 75017 paris
sister her hair looked good
film editor diana goldstein
hetta, adam howe, benjamin alexander
tel +33 142 563 336
digital news editor rebecca boyd-wallis
culture correspondent julia ella van der
huseby, daniel jackson, mikael jansson,
i-D italy
music editor tessa griffith
woodsen
kayt jones, matt jones, quentin jones,
via giacomo watt, 32, 20143, milan
assistant editor pat mcgrath
contributing features editors jeremy
kacper kaspryszk, hanna kelifa, steven
tel +39 (0) 287 396 466
assistant music editor neetah shah
abbott, caryn franklin, hanna
klein, nick knight, paola kudacki,
i-D netherlands
staff writer steve salter
delacortte
erika kurihara, mark lebon, tyrone
reguliersdwarsstraat 90-92
fashion assistant declan higgins
contributing fashion editors marie
lebon, thomas lohr, glen luchford, dan
1011 tg amsterdam
design assistant ryan white...my ex-
chaix, jane how, caroline newell
martensen, josh olins, max pearmain,
girlfriend
beauty director pat mcgrath
walter pfeiffer, peter phillips, terry richardson, olivia rose, paolo roversi,
art assistant jennifer preston
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i-D poland ul. hoza 27a/5, 00-521 warszawa tel +48 228 910 445
content manager rory straton...my boss
finance director iris humbledon
karim s adli, mitchell sams, daniel
office manager eleanor galloway
management accountant denise
sannwald, collier schorr, jeremy scott,
i-D spain
williams...my friend Clara
venetia scott, william selden, clare
calle a’iava ‘40. sobreatico
socials and marketing
printing
shilland, david sims, amy troos, willy
0898 barcelona
head of social media stephanie buluga
wyndeham roche
vanderperre, inez van lamsweerde,
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senior marketing manager stephen mai
wyndeham.co.uk
melanie ward, harley weir, paul wetherell, patti wilson, zach wolfe
social intern nicky gray managing director kristin teller
vice media group andrew creighton (president)
advertising
shane smith (ceo)
advertising director denise williams
eddy moretti (cco)
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contributors Ericka McGriff
A strong leader in the making, Ericka, is ready to blow everyone out of the water with her innovative take of the portrayal of the seven most deadly sins. As a transfer student from Spelman College, Ericka combines her intellectual fervors with her creativity to bring readers the best of both worlds. In a highly anticipated and effortless issue about the vices, she goes above and beyond to ensure only the most stimulating read.
Sofia Molinaro
Creative SCAD student, Sofia, brings an international flare to the Vice issue that focuses on the struggles of the seven sins. As a well versed traveler, she brings global insight to broaden our horizons and understanding of human nature’s biggest struggles from all angles. What’s the worst sin of them all? Envy, because jealousy kills...You can tell Sofia is curt and concise, which was beneficial to keep the photoshoots moving at the most efficient pace.
Ashley Chan
A Chicago native who left behind the big city life in exchange for a quiet experience in Savannah. Coming from a place engulfed by consumerism, Ashley is like a fish out of water struggling to find her place in this small town. After joining such a wonderful group and through some self exploration, she has found an inspirational environment that she found to be ideal for collaborative projects. With an eye for design and layout, she contributes the grounded organization of creative thoughts.
Punya Chanana
Punya, a free-spirited individual, with a strong dedication to all things beautiful wanted to shed light on an otherwise controversial topic. But in an inspiring way. So what is the biggest drive behind creating shoots that revolve around the seven sins? My biggest drive behind creating shoots is that I get to style everyone according to what I feel is trending! Not only that but directing models is just so much fun because you feel like a model at that time too!
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D winter 2014 the vice issue Jealous, kill someone. Hungry, stuff your face. Happy, show it off. In love, let the world know. Struggling, get angry! Lazy, stay on the couch. Feeling overwhelmed, love yourself. All of these feelings are one of the seven deadly sins: lust, gluttony, greed, sloth, wrath, envy, and pride. These sins are the main base of the Christian religion and its golden rules. These seven capital sins define the borderline between what is good and what is evil. In this issue of i-D, you will see how transgression against one’s self, plays a role in the foundation of the seven deadly sins. While you turn the pages in this vice issue, you will see how people today refer to the seven deadly sins to help design a more productive and positive model for their lifestyle. Open your mind to uncover and see how we collaborated with photographers who have mastered the perfection of capturing emotions that go into expressing the most deadly sins. Read the featured interviews by the very talented makeup artist, Brittany Taliaferro, who couldn’t have done a better job helping us explore beauty in wrath, sloth and pride. Another interview by Honor Beeler, who took her camera into the depths of the aquatic to reveal why envy is the real queen of resentment. We also take you through the habits of several internet shopaholics to better illustrate how we have interpreted the seven sins in a modern way. We want to show everyone that the sins still apply in today’s world, despite their heritage from the beginning of Christianity. As we take you through a journey that depicts each of the seven deadly sins, you begin to realize that they act as a great reference point that people use to gage their behaviors. They are the true forms of pleasure we so badly want to ignore; they are the emotions, desires, and cravings that ignite that can’t stop, won’t stop attitude. It’s like a fire has been awakened within you, you go to that place where you can no longer control yourself-that place where you no longer care.
PUNYA CHANANA, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
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lust is a sensation PHOTOGRAPHY LLOYD SHILLABEER EDITED TONGLÉ DAKUM Hair Sofia Molinaro. Make-up Punya Chanana. Make-up assistance Ericka McGriff. Styling Ericka McGriff + Punya Chanana + Ashley Chan + Sofia Molinaro. Models Grace Rokela + Lexandra Marcela + Janelle Morgan + Gonzalo Gelso. 50 i-D
“Curiousity is the lust of the mind.” THOMAS HOBBES 51 i-D
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”Lust, forgetful of future suffering, hurries us along the forbidden path.” CRAUFURD TAIT RAMAGE
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lust is more gullible than innocence TEXT SOFIA MOLINARO
lust breaks down our walls of trust to reveal a form of nakedness and vulnerability that parallels the innocence of a child Lust is about possession and greediness of oneself, an intense form of unrestrained sexual craving or overwhelming desire. Lust is what we take from another person to self-satisfy ourselves, when instead love is about giving yourself to a significant other. Lust enslaves us to the senses, to the animal’s part of man. Lust deadens our spiritual senses so we cannot hear God telling us what is wrong. Not one person will ever be perfect or sinless while still being on this earth, but yet it is still a goal we attempt to succeed in. So can we really say that being lost in lust is really a sin? We can argue both sides. Lust is a disordered desire for sexual pleasure. As human beings we desire sexual pleasure; transforming it as not a sin but a desire for two souls to meet that instinct naturally desire a unique sexual union to keep the human race going. These feelings
properties that define the human instinct. Forgiveness or no forgiveness we are all humans and it is human intuitive to desire sexual partners to share our love with. We can argue the fact that we are all born with different beliefs and cultures; we are all prone to believe in something that we have been taught to believe in. Some might strongly believe that lust can be seen as a normal practice of life experiences. A road we are supposed to follow in order to experience new life learning events. Or perhaps exactly because lust shows that it is normal human instinct, we should be able to make our own decisions and decide that we are okay with living inside a sin. Lust is a necessity in a relationship. Too much lust can be seen healthy if controlled, but not enough of it can create a separation
within us become sinful when we cannot resist the temptation becoming a disorder when we participate in sexual relations outside of marriage as a form of pleasure. Marriage helps us run from lust, teaching us to be more loving people and not view others as merely objects to fulfill our sexual pleasures and desires. Could this be because lust can destroy the whole notion of love and giving that love to only one person? Or could it be that lust is supposed to be part of our lives in order to find that one true love? But at the end of the day we were all created to love and seek love in someone else, and if we don’t know how to love we eventually learn how to love. Lust is selfish. The selfishness lies within the using of another person to fulfill our sexual needs and desires by abolishing our capabilities to being able to love somebody. Lust is able to contaminate our body and soul causing us to use other people and damage our own souls. It is written in the New Testament, that ‘each person is tempted when he is lured and enticed by his own desire. Then desire conceives and brings forth sin, and when sin reaches maturity it gives birth to death’. But we were all fashioned to die at some point and lust will be the one to lead us first to that death point. If we are all destined to die, then should we just live in sin anyways? We have all sinned in our lives, so does it really matter if we ask for forgiveness and just live with sin until we die? At the end of the day we make our own decisions and it is those decisions that define really who we are. In the dictionary words to describe lust in its best form are: longing, desire, passion, yearning, and craving, which are all
between both individuals causing a detachment. Lust also causes us to think irrationally, in unreasonable and illogical ways, causing us to make decisions based on what our mind tells us, instead of our heart. Our mind will tell us to do what we desire or feel in the moment, but our heart will always tell us what’s logical and right to do in the long run. It is unhealthy to ignore signs that our body gives us. Ignorance will lead to anger and anger will lead to thinking irrationally causing us make decisions based on our desires and feelings. Most individuals make this mistake. Relationships fall when one starts to get too comfortable with one another, which will eventually bring boringness to the relationship. If lust is present in this kind of situation then the relationship will never fail because lust keeps passion and connection within one another. But with lust we miss all of the warning signs in a relationship. We have the tendencies to associate events to our personal experiences. So just like music. Artists compose songs that we can somehow personally relate to; therefore the presence of this thought becomes personal and stronger to us. As we look at the generation we live in today lust is everywhere, it is in music, entertainment, and our daily lives. We live in a society that is addicted to sex. An era where people feel free to expose their bodies and do what feels right, a time filled with sensuality and sex, we learn that lust is a powerful emotion within oneself. It has the authority to make one-feel butterflies in the stomach or miserable through the consequences. Lust is vice that yearns to be felt. @sofiamolinaro
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“There is no disease so destructive as lust.” CHANAKYA
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PHOTOGRAPHY PAOLA SALAZAR BICARD Models Kayla Willis + Jordan Chambers.
“The human body is the best work of art.” JESS C. SCOTT 57 i-D
”Lust, forgetful of future suffering, hurries us along the forbidden path.” ANONYMOUS 58 i-D
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“I felt like an animal, and animals don’t know sin, do they?” JESS C. SCOTT
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gluttony PHOTOGRAPHY LLOYD SHILLABEER EDITED BY TONGLÉ DAKUM Hair Sofia Molinaro. Make-up Punya Chanana. Make-up assistance Ericka McGriff. Styling Ericka McGriff + Punya Chanana + Ashley Chan + Sofia Molinaro. Models Grace Rokela + Ali Bassir
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“If you allow it, you can do without it; if you don’t allow it, it will become irresistible.” GIORGIO NARDONE
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the many forms of gluttony TEXT SOFIA MOLINARO
there may be no love that is sincerer than food, but a gluttonous desire can appear in a thousand different forms Behind every margin, there is a transgression. The stricter your margins, the more you are tempted to transgress. The more you construct a form of disorder in your daily life, the less you will feel the need to transgress. For instance a small piece of chocolate saves the need to lapse in bigger matters. To be able to keep a balanced diet, small disorders are needed to keep stability. Therefore do not let your temptations posses you completely, because remember that gluttony kills more than the sword! From time to time we all have food cravings, and there’s nothing wrong with that. But what we don’t know is that almost 90% of the time food cravings derive from our minds. Therefore when we specifically crave a certain type of food, it‘s because that food is not present in our daily diet, causing our minds to overanalyze the need for this food. New research shows that this comes from specific areas of the brain responsible for memory and sensing pleasure. These areas are trigger points that are to blame for developing (unhealthy) food cravings. The hippocampus, insula, and caudate, are areas within the brain that spark the yearning of these food cravings that we can absolutely not live without. But don’t worry because there is actually a way to stop you from the desire to eat foods that are particularly high in fat and sugar. All you have to do is simply block the opiate receptors in the brain, which are our pleasure senses, and BAM food cravings gone! But emotion and desire are factors that go way beyond the physiological reasons for food cravings. When you are stressed or anxious is when your cravings shoot to the sky, causing you to crave the ultimate enemy - carbohydrates. It is simple; when your diet lacks in variety of foods, it leads to more food cravings, therefore be careful not to overlook the obvious. It’s not just sugar or carbohydrates that our bodies crave, but mostly the fat within the foods that cause this feeling of necessity. When looking at the specific types of food that are normally desired by people, almost all of them contain more fat than carbohydrates. It is important to make smart decisions. Make better choices for yourself by deciding to choose the more nutritional dishes instead of the high in fat options when looking for something to satisfy your food cravings. At the end of the day we are
all humans and we need some form of sugar or fat in our diets. The common mistake most people make is skipping meals and waiting too many hours before the next meal. This causes our bodies to get so hungry that it ends up wanting us to overeat in order to compensate. It is during this state of extreme hunger that our bodies end up craving quick-fix foods high in sugar or fat like candy bars. A way to fight this type of craving is by eating more often. When you eat several meals a day you are always having your metabolism in motion, therefore your body actually burns more fat and is healthier. The best way to calm our bodies is to nurture them. Gluttony is a sin. We become guilty of gluttony when we use food or drink in a form that can injure our wellbeing or damage our mind. We eat to nourish our bodies; not for satisfaction. Eating itself is not a sin, but if one eats in a manner that is over aggressive, then it turns into something sinful and evil. Poor eating habits like indulging or constant eating are forms of pleasure that trigger junk food inhalation, which will eventually devastate the human body. Wanting more pleasure from something than it is made for or wanting it exactly our way, transforms into a sin. It does happen to become so caught up in a certain type of pleasure, that we eventually cannot appreciate other things and are ready to sacrifice other indulgences for one. When we think about gluttony, we automatically associate it with fat or obesity; the act of not being able to resist any type of temptation or not being capable of controlling yourself from overeating excessively. It is a continuous cycle, we indulge and famish and indulge again. When indulging ourselves we consume huge amounts of food in a short quantity of time and in a helpless manner. We enter gluttony when we request additional desire from something than it was created for. Gluttony is always thought that it only pertains to food, but it also pertains to not being able to have enough of other forms of pleasure like, companionship, sex, entertainment or games. Being able to control our cravings and temptations will free us from sin. @sofiamolinaro
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“Sometimes I had difficulty remembering that ‘all you can eat’ is not a personal challenge.” MARIKA CHRISTIAN
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“In a way, gluttony is an athletic feat, a stretching exercise.” JOHN UPDIKE
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“Shame is a soul eating emotion.” CARL JUNG
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greed is a bottomless pit PHOTOGRAPHY DUSTIN JONES EDITED BY TONGLÉ DAKUM Hair Sofia Molinaro. Make-up Punya Chanana. Make-up assistance Ericka McGriff. Styling Ericka McGriff + Punya Chanana + Ashley Chan + Sofia Molinaro. Models Hagood Coxe + William Kesling.
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“When I shop, the world gets better, and the world is better, but then it’s not, and I need to do it again.” SOPHIE KINSELLA
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JEWELRY ARIELLE ROUTHIER
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indulge yourself TEXT ASHLEY CHAN
we can’t help but to indulge ourselves first and put our wants before the needs of others E-commerce is the fast-growing industry centered around the things that I need. the exchange of services and products through the use of computer networks, such as the Internet, to conduct 2. What do you like most about online shopping? retail sales to be delivered to consumers. But to more avid I love online shopping because it is easy. Someone else patrons this is most commonly known as online shopping.
does all the hard work for you. You can easily compare
Let’s be real now. Visiting a brick and mortar store is so 2002. prices and product offerings between different retailers all With the popularization of Internet and mobile applications, on your computer screen. I have this problem where I have online shopping is unavoidable and conveniently only a few
fifty tabs open on my browser window and 49 of them will
clicks and taps away. Why would I want to shower, put on be shopping sites. make-up, and get dressed in order to take several hours out of my already busy day to visit a mall and do my shopping 3. What problems have you encountered with shopping when it could all be done in the comfort of my sweats on online? my couch? And to top it all off, it will be delivered to my I honestly don’t like it when stores don’t have free shipping doorstep and the only effort I have to put forth are the few
and free returns, because online shopping can be difficult
steps to my front door.
especially when it comes to sizes. It also annoys me when
Now, I for one can see how one can easily get carried away by
things take more than five days to get to me. Waiting for
the sheer convenience of online shopping. Americans even the package is probably the only problem I have with online have a holiday dedicated to the business of e-commerce: shopping, but it’s to be expected. You can’t have everything Cyber Monday. The e-commerce business is a multi-billion you want. dollar business with people spending almost two billion dollars on that single day. The affluence of technology in 4. What are your online shopping habits like? How often do our lives and it’s influence on consumer spending via the you do it? Internet has made it a powerful force to be reckoned with.
I love online shopping! I do it religiously and as I’ve said
Let’s meet a few of the individuals that help make up the
before, I have a million windows and tabs open full of things
driving force behind online retailing and let them share
that I want. When I find something that I like, I think about
their experiences.
all of the ways that I can wear it and it prompts me to spend even more money, because I buy the other components to
First there’s, Charlotte, a girl from a big city, who has an
complete the outfit. I reached a point in my online shopping
even bigger addiction to online shopping.
career when I received boxes and had completely forgotten what was in it. I probably have enough cardboard boxes
1. Do you do most of your consumer spending online or do
from an entire forest. That’s bad, but it’s probably true.
you prefer to visit a physical store? Living in New York has made it almost impossible not to 5. Generally, a shopping addict is described as having an shop online. The lack of a good shopping mall has put an emotional attachment to shopping. Do you think that you end to my frequent visits to the mall. But I naturally do a lot are addicted to online shopping? of shopping online. I have my favorite retailers’ apps on my I definitely am addicted to online shopping. There’s just phone so that I can make a a wish list and keep track of all something about spending money and doing it online 88 i-D
when I’m bored. I don’t have to go to the store and I can just sneakily do it at work or school. Finally, there’s Carla, the one who thrives on online shopping to avoid seeing anyone she knows. 1. Do you do most of your consumer spending online or do you prefer to visit a physical store? Online, because I don’t like being around people. I only go to the grocery stores at the dead of night to avoid crowds. 2.What do you like most about online shopping? There are no closing hours. It is conveniently open 24/7. There isn’t any waiting in line, because it is all through the Internet. I love that I can just stay in bed all day. I don’t have to deal with poor salespeople with bad attitudes. It’s become so easy to shop online that I enjoy it more so than visiting the store. 3. What problems have you encountered with shopping online? Not getting the size correctly and the hassle of having to return it either to the closest store or through the mail. 4. What are your online shopping habits like? How often do you do it? Every time I have a bad day, I treat myself to some retail therapy. I don’t want to go out when I am having a bad day and it’s nice to spend it with the thought of getting new clothes. I order things about two times a week. 5. Generally, a shopping addict is described as having an emotional attachment to shopping. Do you think that you are addicted to online shopping? Yes, I am a shopaholic. All kinds of shopping are fun to me, but online shopping is super easy as long as I know what size I am. You can never get enough. Online shopping is the ultimate satisfaction for anyone craving self-indulgence. The accessibility, the desire, and fulfillment are emotions that
“Whoever said money can’t buy happiness simply didn’t know where to go shopping.”
thrive and fuel the yearning to always want, and need more. It’s the desire to have it all, that iniquities against oneself. @ashleyc 89 i-D
BO DEREK
“Greed is not a financial issue. It’s a heart issue.” ANDY STANLEY
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JEWELRY ARIELLE ROUTHIER
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“She who wants everything every time will lose everything any time.” VIKRANT PARSAL
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“There is a sufficiency in the world for man’s need but not for man’s greed.” MAHATMA GANDHI
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“Life itself is the proper binge.” DRESS ELISE KELNER.
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sloth: that wicked siren
PHOTOGRAPHY MATT SLADE Hair Ericka McGriff + Brittany Taliaferro. Make-up Brittany Taliaferro + Punya Chanana. Make-up assistance Ashley Chan. Styling Ericka McGriff + Punya Chanana + Ashley Chan + Sofia Molinaro. Models Brenyce Watson + Elise Kelner. 103 i-D
“It’s the lazy people who invented the wheel and the bicycle because they didn’t like walking or carrying things.” LECH WALESA
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JACKET BRENYCE WATSON AND DRESS ELISE KELNER.
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JACKET BRENYCE WATSON.
“I don’t feel guilty or unproductive at any point.” OLGA KHAZAN
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the present-day sloth TEXT ERICKA MCGRIFF
is one still a sloth if they are well-dressed and classy? It’s a Friday night, and I have two options: either go out for a night on the town with my girls, or stay at home bundled up, with my computer in my lap, eyes glued to my computer screen, watching Netflix. After about a 2-minute deliberation on what I wanted to do (if you know me, you know it was a no brainer) I choose to stay at home and watch Netflix. But then again if you know a college student (or any modern day human being) you know this is nothing new. It might not be a Friday night, or even the weekend, but you come to realize that many people chose to stay home and watch Netflix any day of the week. You have so many options for online streaming from Amazon Instant Video, to Netflix, Hulu, YouTube, or if you’re a rebel you find it randomly in the gigantic sphere the Internet is. The Internet has taken over how modern day people not only interact, but also view their content. The rise of online streaming is at an all time high, from the array of options for viewing media, to the amount of content it provides, it clearly is winning the fight against television viewing, as online streaming is here to stay. But see, the problem does not really arise until...you binge watch. Binge watching (or now, better known as widespread marathon-viewing sessions, or netflixing) what Dictionary.com defines as the ability “to watch (multiple videos, episodes of a TV show, etc.) in one sitting or over a short period of time.” This problem can arise suddenly and before you know it you don’t even know what you did. It usually happens so quickly you realize seven hours later, that you just spent your entire day staring at your computer screen watching, eating, drinking, addicted to whatever has your attention span for that long of a time. You cannot control yourself. It has the same effect that happens when you binge on anything, (in the same way that binge-drinking or binge-shopping are not activities done in moderation) except once you get going you cannot/do not want to stop. You find yourself doing the exact same thing, the next weekend, better yet the next day if you’re lucky enough not to have anything to do. But the problem continues to grow as you find yourself in multiply dilemmas. For instance, you start watching a show at 8pm, saying to yourself that you wont be long, you’ll only watch 4 episodes, only 2 hours
worth, but then you check your clock and its 2am. You panic realizing that you just spent a good 6 hours doing relatively nothing... And if your like me you might be sh*ting your pants, fathoming that you only have 5 hours until you have to wake up again for an 8am meeting. And then you factor into your time frame that it will mostly likely take you 30minutes to an hour to actually fall asleep, and you frantically try to count sheep, count to 100, anything at this point that will help you fall asleep. With addictions, its always always a must to find someone to blame, and in this case its no different, I obviously blame Netflix, the king of all online streaming. I think they should fire the genius who came up with the idea of producing Orange Is The New Black, or House of Cards, the brilliant mind who one day said, ‘hey lets produce our own original content that can only be viewed on our network, and lets release it season by season rather than one episode at a time.’ Its like he was asking for people to become obsessive human beings, unable to control themselves, devouring a seasons worth of content in just days. But see, the moment when you know you’ve hit rock bottom is when suddenly the show your indulgenced in unexpectedly freezes and a gray box appears, giving you three options: to continue playing, play from beginning, or back to browse. Shame washes over you as even Netflix has pointed out that you’ve been watching a show too long. It’s like they’re saying “Hey there! We’ve noticed that you’ve been watching this show for a really…really long time. Are you sure-like one hundred percent sure- you want to keep watching?” Its like even Netflix has shamed you, and causes you to realize that your own television has judged you. It quickly turns into that thing where you tell yourself you’ll eat just one more cookie, then you convince yourself that you’ll go to the gym tomorrow so you eat one more, and then you look down and realize you’ve finished the entire box, and question your entire being. But how can one resist the availability of commercial-free, high-quality, right at your fingertips, at anytime of the day, content? You can’t so go ahead, uncontrollably binge watch your shows, live in the moment, and question yourself later. @erickawithack
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DRESS ELISE KELNER AND JACKET BRENYCE WATSON.
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“People are not lazy. They simply have impotent goals—that is, goals that do not inspire them.” TONY ROBBINS
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DRESS ELISE KELNER.
“Entertainment is fast becoming an all-you-can-eat buffet. Call it the Netflix effect.” RAJU MUDHAR, TORONTO STAR
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wrath wrath: an anger too heavy to bear
PHOTOGRAPHY LLOYD SHILLABEER EDITED BY TONGLÉ DAKUM Hair Sofia Molinaro. Make-up Punya Chanana + Brittany Taliaferro. Make-up assistance Ericka McGriff + Ashley Chan. Styling Ericka McGriff + Punya Chanana + Ashley Chan + Sofia Molinaro. Models Brenyce Watson + Kelsey Schmidt + Tenielle Adderley + Ali Bassir. 118 i-D
ARM CUFF SOFIA MOLINARO. 119 i-D
plastic wrath TEXT ASHLEY CHAN
the extremities we endure to achieve a level of perfection deemed accurate by misconceptions Wrath is understood as the most vengeful of the seven sins in the way that it is the one most likely felt by others surrounding, and probably in a harmful way too. Wrath can be exerted in a multitude of ways, because it is an emotion that causes us to lose our composure and act in an aggressive manner that will most likely be regretted in the future. The topic that is to be discussed deals with wrath with one’s self image to the most extreme and the grand schemes people endure to get what they view as the “perfect” beauty. First off, there is the phenomenon that is Valeria Lukyanova, known to the public as “Human Barbie”. She is a 29 year old model of Ukrainian descent and she is most notable for her close resemblance to a Barbie doll—body figure, doll face, thinness, the whole nine yards. She has been in the Russian media several times and she has even posted images and videos online on her own to show people how similar she looks to a doll. Her appearance has attracted the attention of people all across the globe. However, her spotlight is not coming as admiration from the public. Many critics have called Lukyanova out as being a hoax hungry for media attention and have accused her of undergoing numerous plastic surgeries to attain her infamous Barbie doll look. She denies such accusations and admits that she did subject herself to breast augmentation, but the rest of her body remains natural. I am a little skeptical about her physique appearing the way that it does along with a good majority of other people out there. It is difficult to believe that her natural physical appearance is so similar to a Barbie in real human form. What I find even more intriguing than her physical appearance is her level of dissatisfaction with self. There are people out there who suffer from an internal struggle everyday with their physical appearance. There is no desire to be unique in her case. She wants to look like a plastic doll that she thinks is the epitome of womanly perfection. Oftentimes, people label women as the only ones who can subject themselves to being victims of vanity. This is false, because Justin Jedlica has configured his entire body
to mirror that of the Ken Barbie doll, which is the male counterpart to Valeria Lukyanova’s Barbie doll. Contrary to the typical storyline of the two falling in love, Human Ken actually disses Human Barbie after meeting at a photo shoot for not assuming her role as a human doll as seriously as he does. Having undergone over 140 different surgical procedures including lip augmentation and pectoral implants, Jedlica has assumed his new identity to an utmost extreme that far surpasses the efforts of Lukyanova. Jedlica first began with a nose job at 18 years old and has spent well over $100,000 to appear the way that he does now: plastic. He has been reported as saying that he has no plans to stop with the surgeries anytime in the near future. The struggle with self is probably the deadliest outcome of the wrath vice. In today’s day and age, the promotion of natural beauty is strong because views have shifted to where we create our own identity. But the mindsets of a more traditional view still have a specific image of beauty that clashes with the natural appearance. Thus a series of surgical procedures will be underway as people rush to attain the image that they deem as ideal. Justin Jedlica and Valeria Lukyanova are prime examples of humans who have grown up thinking that Barbie dolls are the spitting image of perfect and real humans should look like plastic perfection. So what it really boils down to is the anger they feel when they see a Barbie and their reflection in a mirror and the similarities are not exact. Wrath doesn’t always have to be as literal as it sounds. It is not limited to an emotion that is outwardly expressed upon others in a harmful manner. Or anger. Wrath can also be cultivated upon one’s own self simply through strong dissatisfaction. What we often overlook is the harm we can inflict upon ourselves through narrow mindedness such as is the case with the Human Barbie and Ken. Perhaps this is their way of coping with their inner struggles with physical appearance, but what is more is that they were unhappy with who they used to look like. They have made themselves molds of what they deem as the utmost beauty. @ashleyc
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JUSTIN JEDLICA
“Anger is a choice, as well as a habit.”
WAYNE W. DYER
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PHOTOGRAPHY http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2918318/I-want-100-plastic-Human-Ken-doll-risks-blindness-veins-forehead-removed.html http://www.fashionsalon.ca/2014/03/12-more-photos-of-valeria-lukyanova.html
VALERIA LUKYANOVA
“But of the seven deadly sins, wrath is the healthiest— next only to lust.” EDWARD ABBEY
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C.E. MURPHY
“Logic was puny in the face of my wrath.”
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“I don’t usually lose my temper, but if I get angry, it’s true—I’m scary.” EVA MENDES
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“You will not be punished for your anger, you will be punished by your anger.” BUDDHA
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overwhelming emotion
envy is an
PHOTOGRAPHY HONOR BEELER Hair Sofia Molinaro. Make-up Ericka McGriff. Styling Ericka McGriff + Punya Chanana + Ashley Chan + Sofia Molinaro. Models Kate Johnson + Natalie Besl.
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“Envy is the tax which all distinction must pay.” RALPH WALDO EMERSON
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“he who envies others does not obtain peace of mind” ANONYMOUS
“I think the thing that has pushed me the most is the creative and somewhat intimidating atmosphere. There are so many talented students surrounding you; it really pushes you to be more creative and strive to produce more impressive work.” HONOR BEELER, PHOTOGRAPHER
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envy is in the eye of the beholder TEXT ERICKA MCGRIFF
people will never stop talking about your success out of jealousy, but that doesn’t mean you have to stop for them When you come up with an amazing idea you often wonder if colors and movement I was able to capture under the surface and there is anyone out there who can make your vision a reality. And was hooked! I went on from there to get my advanced open water then you meet people like Honor Beeler. She is one of those people scuba certification and specialized in underwater photography, that when she speaks not only do you know she means business,
and I am currently on the path to become a master scuba diver,
but you know that she could photograph diamonds and the end just like my grandfather. result would be something amazing. You bring her an idea and she brings it to life. She is a senior, Chicago native, whose love for 3. How long have you been doing it? photography goes deeper than most, literally…she’s an underwater I have been shooting underwater since I was 11, but only really photographer, who has been doing so since she was 11. Take a look
developed this skill in the last few years. Underwater portraits are
into the mind of Honor Beeler, and realize the possibilities that lie completely different than photographing seascapes and marine within following your dreams.
life!
1. When did you first realize your love for photography?
4. What made you choose to go this path as opposed to regular
I have always loved art since as early as I can remember and during
photography?
High School I decided to take an AP art class. I wanted to do my
I was at my previous college when I first took a camera under
final project on anatomical illustrations, essentially showing the
the water to do human portraits. I had bought a small point and
fascinating inner workings of the human body in an aesthetically
shoot camera with a plastic underwater housing and was dying
beautiful way. Before finally realizing that art was my passion, I
to try it out, but because I was in IL I was a little limited with
actually went to my first college as a pre-med student. I wanted where I could shoot. For a final photo assignment I decided to each of my 10 images to be in a different style and medium, so
photograph romantic dream like images and was inspired by a
part of this included digital photography. I had already taken all shoot I had seen done by underwater photographer Sacha Blue. the dark room classes available, but had never really used a digital When photographing destination weddings, she had the bride and camera before. After photographing a few models, I decide to groom after the ceremony jump into the ocean (still in their tux Photoshop anatomical illustrations on top of their skin to make
and dress) for a more unique wedding shoot. So I went and bought
them look almost inside out or like their skin was a window into
some of the most unattractive wedding dresses I had ever seen
the body. I think I actually feel in love with Photoshop first! I was from the local Salvation Army and took them in our school pool. blown away at how a few simple clicks could make something look
I was amazed at the way these dresses came to life! I was in love
so different, Photoshop allowed me to create things I never could with their movement, and the unpredictable nature of lighting do in traditional media. It was after that project I bought my first
underwater. It was this shoot that made me realize that although
camera and became obsessed with photography.
underwater photography is quite a challenge the end result was well worth it.
2. When did you get into underwater photography? When I was 11 my grandfather, who was a master scuba diver
5. What does a typical shoot look like? How do you pick the
at the time, took me to get scuba certified down in the Florida
location, the models, do you need any special lighting, backdrop,
Keys. It was on that trip when he first lent me a very simple point accessories. Etc? and shoot underwater Sealife camera (only 4 megapixels!) to take In underwater photography there is really no such thing as a underwater. After getting them printed I realized the amazing typical shoot, as all the conditions that go into shooting in the 140 i-D
water are so unpredictable. Especially went shooting in lakes and
8. Do you see yourself in hope of making a career out of this, and
in the ocean each day poses a set of unique challenges. You have
if not, what would you love to do?
to accommodate for the weather, surf, surge and depth, when you Unfortunately, this is type of photography is very expensive and are in a pool you have to plan ahead for location, other swimmers,
therefore difficult to make a career out of, not to mention that
and the limits of indoor lighting. Usually I use my cameras built in there is not a huge market for underwater portraits. However, flash, which of course is not ideal, but when I go on scuba diving
I would love to someday be an art director for a large company
trips I always rent two large strobe arms to help with loss of light. where I can look at hundred of photographs and draw inspiration When photographing indoors, I like to use a large bed sheet as a
from the amazing talent that surrounds us everyday. It may sound
backdrop, which I first submerge in the pool then drape over the surprising, but I do not want to work freelance, it’s too scary to me! edge of the pool. I have found this provides the perfect cover for I would like to have a secure job where I can depend on a paycheck sometimes ugly or beat up pool concrete. One trick I have learned
and insurance, and then spend my extra time pursing my passions
over the years is to always bring lots of trash bags along! Everything
like underwater photography.
gets so water logged this will save you the misery of dealing with wet backdrops and dresses when you get home.
9. Why did you choose SCAD? I have transferred schools more times then anyone I know, I am
6. Is there any special equipment of type of camera that you have
like a walking advertisement for “it’s never too late to transfer.”
to use for underwater photography?
SCAD is actually my third school, but I originally looked at SCAD
I have a couple different underwater cameras. I always save all
for their graduate programs, I loved the school so much I decided
my cameras regardless of how old they are, so I still have my to transfer my senior year of college. I first and foremost picked Grandfather’s very first digital SeaLife camera he lent me when SCAD because I knew I could get the education I needed for the job I was 11, I also have two very simple point and shoot cameras
I so desperately wanted. Their photography program is far beyond
with plastic underwater housing. Right now I am shooting with what any of my other schools were able to offer, and the facilities a Cannon power shot that can shoot in RAW with a hard plastic
and faculty were beyond impressive. As an added plus, SCAD has
housing that can go down to 130 feet. When I shoot marine life I a nationally ranked equestrian team and as for someone who has always rent two large strobes from a local dive shop so I can attach been riding horses since they were 5 this school combined the two them to my camera for extra light. When you shoot in the pool things I loved most in life. or with models you are limited to just a few feet so there is always plenty of natural light. When you are scuba diving down 50-100 10. Has SCAD helped further your talent, as well as, push you to feet you loose light and color so quickly you need the extra light
do more/experiment more? Has it given you the push you needed
from the strobes.
to feel as if you can do anything? I think the thing that has pushed me the most is the creative and
7. If you could shoot anywhere with no budget, have any model,
somewhat intimidating atmosphere. There are so many talented
any location, access to clothing and all, where would you shoot,
students surrounding you, it really pushes you to be more creative
and what would the story of the shoot be?
and strive to produce more impressive work. I have also really
Oh wow, what a question! I have to say the one place I have always
enjoyed being able to take such a wide variety of classes, I wish
wanted to travel for the marine life is Papua New Guinea, as it is
I had known about SCAD when I was in high school, I would
one the few places on earth that is still rather untouched by man have been able to take so many more electives! Not only have I and has some of the most unique and rare sea life on the planet. been able to take advanced classes specializing in studio lighting, Besides photographing the extraordinary sea life, I would love to portraits, and even inkjet printing, but I have also taken courses in bring models along to capture them in the surrounding beauty of
drawing and equestrian studies. This combination of classes has
the sea, also known as their natural habitat. Eventually I would allowed me to see art from so many different perspectives that it love to get my cave diving certification and do photographs in
has pushed me to look outside the box and draw inspiration from
caves as well, as Papua New Guinea has some of the most beautiful
many different areas. @erickawithack
and unexplored caves in the world.
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“Success makes so many people hate you. I wish it wasn’t that way. It would be wonderful to enjoy success without seeing envy in the eyes of those around you.” MARILYN MONROE 143 i-D
“Insecure people put others down to raise themselves up.” HABEEB AKANDE
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“Envy always lasts longer than the happiness of those we envy.” FRANCOIS DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULD
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i take a lot of pride in being myself PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTOPHER DOBBINS Hair Ericka McGriff. Make-up Brittany Taliaferro + Punya Chanana. Styling Ericka McGriff + Punya Chanana + Ashley Chan + Sofia Molinaro. Models Kharlybia Roane + Tenielle Adderley. 154 i-D
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TEXT PUNYA CHANANA
i am comfortable with who i am
BRITTANY TALIAFERRO
Self-importance, arrogance, conceit, egotism, and vanity, all words that relate to the feelings, emotions, and passion towards pride. There are several different definitions of pride. It can be referred to as a type of plant, a form of body decoration, or even a group of animals. The most commonly used definition is being proud, or having a feeling of great accomplishment. The word pride, (positive or negative) has had an effect on how we feel about ourselves. Self-pride is your sense of your own value or worth as a person. It is how much you like accepting, approving, and respecting yourself. The pride you have within yourself determines your success or failure in everything. It is not a black-andwhite thing. Pride like anything else has many shades of gray. It comes from a true commitment to what you have to do, from a sense of self-worth and personal ability. In order to develop pride, you need to believe in your self worth. You can recognize yourself as worthy and capable of loving and being loved. When you have pride in yourself and look your best, others will notice, but most importantly, you will feel empowered to accomplish more with a greater amount of vitality and satisfaction. You will demonstrate your selfworth to others as well as yourself. Always defeat the other with the power of beauty. We sat down with Brittany, a very famous makeup artist around the Savannah College of Art and Design, who is a senior pursuing her BFA in Fashion Marketing and Management to talk about how she defines beauty, as well as, some very helpful tips on what works 156 i-D
best for your skin! She truly understands the art of applying attending the SCAD Atlanta campus, I worked as a Beauty makeup and making every person feel confident and Consultant for Elizabeth Arden Shiseido and Dermablend fabulous. at Dillard’s. In my spare time I had clients from all around town that made me feel good and loved for what I did and 1. Where do you get your creativity? came to visit me all the time for advice. We would go from I get my creativity from being inspired by icons such as counter to counter playing in Chanel, Dior, Clinique, etc. Of Naomi Campbell, Grace Jones, and Michelle Pfeifer. Other course the counter managers would be pissed that I didn’t makeup enthusiast such as Angel Merino, Scott Barnes use my own makeup at my own counter but my customers and Jeffree Star also inspires me! Occasionally, I watch loved me for being diverse in my choices and honest about Rupaul’s Drag Race just to get inspired. It’s just amazing to the products that I loved the most! see someone transition into a whole other being! I have a strong passion for makeup. Makeup is like therapy to me— 7. How do you determine a client’s undertone before you it’s mind relaxing and fun! decide what makeup technique to use? I notice the cast of undertones right away on my clients 2. What are the biggest challenge makeup artists have to face, usually on their cheeks. Undertones come in neutral, face? warm and cool colors and usually I can tell right off the back We struggle with people who want to negotiate the prices what category a person falls under. Warmer tones have that we set for our services. Some customers are often yellow, or golden undertones. Cooler tones have pink, red surprised when we give them our prices and threaten to or blue undertones. Neutrals are somewhere in between go to someone else who is cheaper but little do they know, the others. that person may be cheaper for a reason, they may have your brows looking like sharpie marks but that’s non of my 8. If a customer asks for a style that you are sure would business *sips tea *. We have a full on running business to not suit them, how do you convince the customer to go run; we don’t just charge for our talent and expertise, we otherwise? charge for our expenses to cover. I love helping others out, If a 70-year-old woman came to me and asked me to give there were plenty of times where I sold myself short and her lips like Kylie Jenner and the contour of a Kardashian, I’m took whatever people offered but Makeup artist deserve about it! I’m not going to stop someone from doing what he much more respect than that. or she wants. Afterwards, if I see or notice something that I can make recommendable applications to, then I will let it 3. What is your typical skin care routine? be known. I want us both to be happy with the outcomes I follow a three-step skincare regimen for morning and night. In the morning, I cleanse, tone and moisturize and at 9. Describe a time you had to create a look under pressure? night I repeat and include a nighttime repair serum before This has happened more times than it should have! The one my moisturizer. I remember the most is when I was just starting out to assist my makeup services to SCAD students here in Savannah 4. How do you prepare dry and oily skin for foundation and I wasn’t asking the important questions such as, “What makeup application? is the concept? How many models are we shooting? etc.” First, I prep the skin with a hydrating moisturizer—hydration and the group project that I was helping ended up arriving is key for preparing your skin for foundation, no matter what an hour late, rushing to get everything situated. One of them your skin type. Then, I layer with a mattifying/hydrating comes to me and says, “We want a dramatic smokey eye primer in order to help the foundation lie down smoothly geometric eye look using red, black, and white with lashes and last longer throughout the day. Finally, your skin should and thick eyebrows. Make her look like Cara but by the way be ready for foundation! she’s black but if we straightened her hair she should be fine. Do you do hair? By the way our photographer is here 5. How often do you clean your makeup tools such as and he said he has to leave in 30 minutes so how fast can brushes? How does it affect the wear and tear of your tools you do this?” and how do you feel about the associated expense? I clean my tools once a month in order to prolong the 10. Finally what is the next step for you in your career? quality, durability and longevity of my brushes. The more I am still trying to find out where I want to be after SCAD and you wash your brushes, the lesser the durability of your in my career. Whether it be in fashion, makeup, marketing or brushes. The bristles will begin to shed and it will loose its whatever it is, I want to have a career where I don’t consider blending qualities. It can also happen when you don’t wash it a job but as something that I just love doing. I want to wake them at all. The expenses of brushes depend on personal up every morning feeling excited and enthusiastic about preference and lifestyle. As a makeup artist, I care about coming in to work and working with the people around me. the quality of my brushes because it creates the quality look I want to work with people who bring positive vibes and that I’m going for on my clients. My brushes range from $1 good energy into the working environment, where they to $40 based on the quality, functionality and the life span. encourage one another to keep trying, to work harder and to not feel bad about themselves if they make a mistake. 6. Do you have any experience in retail cosmetology? If I summon the courage to own my own business, I want Yes! I started out working with Mary Kay cosmetics when to build that kind of working environment where everyone I was 13 and have been with them ever since. Also, while respects one another. 157 i-D
“Its not about seducing men, it’s about embracing womanhood.” DITA VON TEESE
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“Beauty is self confidence applied directly to the face.” WORDBONER
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“People are like stained-glass windows. They sparkle and shine when the sun is out, but when the darkness sets in, their true beauty is revealed only if there is a light from within.� ELIZABETH KUBLER ROSS 163 i-D
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behind the scenes at i-D we wanted to take all of our readers on a journey behind the scenes to show everyone the creativity and fun that is put into each issue
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