FP Movement Trend report by esmemoran

Audrey Lewis Esme Moran Rachell Marsh Jess Eve

Eggshell Agency

Contents Introduction

4/5

FP Movement, Activewear Introducton Key Drivers Designer Fabric Minimal Solutions Utility Everyday Function Key Takeaways

6 / 27 6/7 8 /9 10 / 13 14 / 17 18 / 21 22 / 25 26 / 27

Wholesale Growth Strategy Introduction Key Drivers Visual Overview Mood Catwalk Pop Up Props and Furniture Lighting Sounds Digital Key takeaways

28 / 49 28 / 29 30 / 31 32 / 33 34 / 35 36 / 37 38 / 39 40 / 41 42 / 43 44 / 45 46 / 47 48 / 49

Introduction COVID 19 and the global pandemic that resulted from it changed society in ways unimaginable before. The past year has been a challenge in every way possible and that has been reflected in consumer behaviour for all industries. Fashion shifted towards home wear, comfort and self care. With people having limited contact with the outside world and people who were not within their household, we all took time to relax and care for ourselves in a time for fear and uncertainty. As we approach A/ W 21, 22 trends will shift towards a change of physical environment and anxiety about leaving our safety of home and reentering society and the workplace. Trends in wholesale strategy and fashion, including activewear, will reflect these emotions and tailor to the consumers new wants and needs.

Activeweaer With a shift towards modular thinking taking place, consumers are looking for items with multi-functional use. This trend has been brought about by new ways of buying and building value into items. Functionality is driven by the need for value and longevity, as well as the growing desire and attention to producing sustainable activewear.(WGSN, 2021) With statistics rising to one in six deaths worldwide being caused by pollution more consumers and companies are taking responsibility for their impact on our planet. The development of this concern will see Functionality as a key trend for A/ W 21, 22. Technological advancements have allowed for the engineering of materials. This heightened technology will be applied to activewear available to the public in the upcoming A/W season. This will present through sub trends of technological advancement and sustainability that will result in Functionality being a key trend for activewear.

RAINS S/S19 ‘Reflections’

RAINS S/S19 ‘Reflections’ 7

Key Drivers New fabrics for more versatile clothing Minimalist elegant functional desires Utility looks back to basics Everyday functional Apparel

Riot Division. 9

Designer Fabric New fabrics are allowing for more effective clothing and materials. Scientific breakthroughs such as CRISPR gene editing and bio-engineering will allow us to ‘grow’ materials to fit our needs, and develop more sustainable closed-loop systems in the process. Technological advancements such as this are lending themselves to the development of materials that add to performance, versatility and impacts on the environment around us. Material innovators are creating fabrics that warn about or offer protection from dirty air. One example of this, The Active Air concept shoe filters air as the wearer walks, purifying eight times the pollution a car emits in the same distance walked.Not just focused on sustainability, fabric development is a catalyst to smaller wardrobes and multi function clothing. Thermo Regulating fabric development allows for one clothing item used in multiple climates for multiple activities. SKIINCORE’s self-heating, wire-free base layer senses the wearer’s temperature and automatically switches on or off. It also learns from and adapts to the wearer’s lifestyle.

Ava sonneveld, survival constrctions. 11

Minimalist Soloutions Minimalism will be a key drive behind Functionality and innovation in the upcoming A/ W season. Elegant but functional designs will allow us to move freely between everyday life. With consumers continuing to be conscious of their effect on the planet they’ll be looking to buy smarter investment pieces that will last, with modular styles key. Minimalist designs will focus on function over fashion, multi layered looks and lines that are paired back for adaptable function. With the current climate of COVID19 and the government announcement of the current exit strategy, we can predict emotions of A/ W 21, 22 to reflect anxiety about returning to normal life. Minimalist designs, paired with the other sub genres to functionality, allows for athletic wear, that reminds the consumer of safety and warmth. Modular parkers will be the activewear development to this seasons trend of puffer jackets. With elements of protection, security and comfort the coat also offers multiple jackets in once, providing the consumer with subconscious emotional support as well as a more sustainable and versatile purchase.

Prada, Linea Rossa 15

Utility Camo print and utility shapes often come back up every winter season for activewear but A/ W 21, 22 will be all about pairing back utility camouflage to more minimalist and understated lightweight nylon shells. Utility is all about functionality. With detachable pieces of clothing, alterations that allow for movement and transformation and multi-use features such as clips and pockets. With values shifting towards sustainability, utility is the perfect feature to functionality. Brands are introducing more detachable features to items, such as trousers that become shorts, allowing for one item to be sufficient for multiple activities. Allowing the flow between daily activities and climates. Key fabric aspects of the utility trend will include nylon ripstop material, taffetas and oxford fabrics that are as rugged as they are lightweight. To add layering to the minimalistic approach, explore contrasting textures such as new suedettes and utility trims, including functional nylon webbing and clip fastenings.

A-COLD-WALL X Nike, F/W18 19

Everyday Function With the consumer seeking calm and comfort they found within their own homes as the last seasons were spent following various lockdowns and restrictions. Activewear will adopt fabrics and cuts that remind the consumer of their safe space while still being performance ready. Having items of clothing that easily transfer from home, to gym, to lunch will be one of the driving factors in activewear trends A/ W 21, 22. One presentation of this will be through Athleisure pieces. Using ‘Spa’ materials such as waffles, towelling and heavy jersey but elevating it to functional apparel. Although these fabrics are cosy and implement relaxation they also have performance properties such as such as anti-crease, anti-odour and stain resistance. Further than this fabrics such as velvet and velour will start to present throughout activewear. Technological developments will allow the line between fashion and performance fabrics and shapes to blend. Engineering of fabrics will mean anything can be produced with the properties necessary for performance. This will be key in multi-function items.

Rosie Broadhead, Skin Series II 23

Key Takeaways Functionality meets FP movement perfectly. The brands range already focus on minimalistic, beautiful and flowing pieces. Therefore staying current with the trend would still allow Free People to maintain their identity. By applying the different aspects of Functionality and what it encompasses, Free People movement will allow its consumer to feel current, committed to the planet and secure in the climate of exiting a global pandemic. With free peoples consumer being a lover of the outside, and quite liberated rather than stuck in a strict routine, versatility in their clothing is of paramount importance. Functionality will also allow the paring down of Free People Movements line. Time and energy can be focused on less, more impactful and successful pieces. This not only benefits the brand but also helps the environment, taking steps in the correct direction of becoming a more sustainable brand daily.

Wholesale Growth Strategy In an uncertain time of restrictions and constant change, people have been confined to their own homes for the last year with little chance to travel and limited socialisation with people outside their immediate family or household. Consumer experience has changed from physical brick and mortar stores to digital online shopping from home. In an unpredictable future of shopping and consumer behaviour we have explored the trend of escapism. Brands should aim to ‘[transport] viewers to a wild and adventurous place as a message of hope in these difficult times’ (WSN, 2021). Escapism can be seen as ‘the tendency to seek distraction and relief from unpleasant realities, especially by seeking entertainment or engaging in fantasy.’ (Oxford languages, 2021) Stores and visual merchandising can create a space for consumers to escape, whether it’s to a different place or mood. In 2020 ‘Coronavirus [had] reduced air travel by 97%’ (houseofcommons,2020), leaving people stuck at home with the urge to travel. With restrictions still in place we still look for any chance of escapism. .

@viancasoleil 29

Key Drivers Embracing simplicity - A clear space to clear the mind of any distractions and anxieties of returning to reality. Desire to escape - Transportation of the mind and emotions in a restricted time for travel. Mindful experience - Surrounded by comforting interiors, to slow down the pace of a shopping experience Immerse the senses - Engaging all senses for consumers allowing them to transport into a different place or emotion

Mood

@viancasoleil

Experiences such as Jason Wu’s catwalk show changes the mood and feeling of the audience, creating the illusion of a sandy beach. Some setups, lighting, visuals and props can changed the mood of a consumer benefitting the store. The urge to escape has increased due to travel restrictions from covid.

Al-Jawad Pike

@ilovelinen

Al-Jawad Pike

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Catwalk

Jacquemus

Jason Wu’s catwalk show was inspired by Tulum, Mexico with the sand, greenery and sounds of crashing waves playing. The whole set was based on the top of a building in Manhattan, New York. This is an example of escapism for consumers in a place that juxtaposes the busy city with a peaceful beach. The presence of leaves and greenery would

immediately suggest a more natural and healthy space to consumers. The Jacquemus catwalk set, and props also give the dreamlike ambiance which shows the theme of escapism through it. The audience experience a temporary form of escape and change of scenery in a time of restricted travel and greater exposure to nature.

Jason Wu

Jacquemus

Valentino

Burberry

Jason Wu 37

Pop Up

Yabu Pushelberg

Adaptable, short term and creative store concepts emerge into the market as large retailers launch temporary storefronts, in the uncertain times and consistent store closures. “With the retail estate market forced to explore shorter and more flexible leases, pop-up retail concepts are set to surge as retail brands embrace more nimble ways to operate” (LSN, 2020) This would be an effective way for FP Movement to establish their brand in new cities without the commitment of

a long term lease and create a ‘space that is adjustable and transformable over time.’(LSN, 2020). This also allows for experimentation with design and concepts. Opening in several cities also allows for market analysis to inform planning of future FP Movement permanent stores. “Primed for unforeseen challenges and market forces, even permanent bricks-and-mortar locations will take cues from pop-ups, becoming more agile in an increasingly uncertain future.” (LSN, 2020)

Kontent

Canberra

Maapilim

Maapilim 39

Props and Furniture

@cinziabayliszullo

To evoke the feeling of escape from reality as well as a calm, comforting feeling with spacious rooms and muted decor. With the simplicity of natural wood detailing along with outdoor life in store, with furniture you can sink into. The waiting chairs mimicking the trendy cloud sofas to waiting chairs will bring the home comforts we are so used to instore. “Curved architecture and interior decor has been shown to increase brain activity as well as helping with fluid and intuitive navigation. Use sculptural curved forms

to divide up spaces, to create breakout areas, or to provide pathways through stores” (WGSN, 2020). Soft and gentle feels throughout the space with touches of light wood, cream detailings and delicate wall hangings. “Forms, finishes and textures will be key for creating a softer look. Create cocooning display fixtures and fitting rooms with curved, domed or cylindrical forms” (WGSN, 2020). Mirrors reflecting around the store to open up the space to induce the feeling of endless possibilities and lack of restrictions.

Adelaide

@cinziabayliszullo

Fred Rigby

Adelaide

Pampus

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Lighting

Kopi

Lighting in stores can be used for ‘creating a restorative cave-meets-space refuge for shoppers’ (WGSN, 2020). Lighting can affect consumer behaviour when in store, Dextra group had done research and ‘The research revealed the significance of colour temperature within retail environments. Although brightness was found to be an important factor for

consumers, other factors, like colour temperature and rendering were just as important. The results also showed consumers’ preference of warm lighting and moderate brightness.’ (Dextra group plc, 2021). Looking into lighting the warmth, shape and colour affects consumer behaviour such as very bright lighting causing consumers to make impulse decisions (The Light bulb, 2021)

Kopi

StudioPepe

Objects of common interest

StudioPepe 43

Sounds

Part of escapism is allowing the body to believe it is somewhere else, in order to achieve this and have a change in mood or emotion, all the senses should be stimulated. Sound is one that can easily be incorporated into stores. Jason Wu’s Spring summer 21 catwalk show also integrated sound into the show. The sounds of crashing waves were played

whilst the audience sat amongst sand and green trees inspired by Tulum Mexico.As part of escapism stores should consider the mood and desired effect of sounds played in store. For example, calm classical music may transform a consumer’s mood whilst shopping. Sound and visual merchandising combined enhances the experiences and creates a stronger sense of escapism.

@cinziabayliszullo

@viancasoleil

Digital

Holographic Mannequins

Incorporating technological advancements such as holographic mannequins blurs the lines between real life and virtual, enhancing the feeling of an out of reality experience. “Digital ateliers will create a fashion future free from the constraints of the material world, where colours, materials and details are chosen for how they look on screen as much as how they appear in real life,

creating a new marketplace for the next era of fashion“ (WGSN, 2020). This also allows for constant adaptability and transformation of the space to feel like you entering a new store each time. Augmented reality (AR) is an emerging trend in marketing and sales strategies. It allows brands to give customers unique experiences with the convenience of tapping into their mobile devices. (LSN, 2021)

Burberry, Kendall Jenner

Animal Crossing 47

Key Takeaways Engaging consumers senses within the store is vital to enhance the experience of escapism for them, whether its sounds, touch or sight. The idea of escapism during a time where travel is restricted creates a stronger desire. Crashing wave sounds and tropical inspired furniture or props may be the closest thing some consumers will reach when it comes to escaping reality. Minimal space creates a stressfree area allowing consumers to relax and enjoy their shopping experience. Comforting aspects seen in home interiors then moving to stores will let consumers associate home living with their in-store experience post pandemic, hopefully relieving global anxiety towards going back into public spaces.

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