ISSUE 8 • JUNE 2015
Fantastic
Mexican from La Boca Loca
QUAIL Huka Lodge
from
+ Skillet Chicken & much more www.eatmag.co.nz
CONTENTS 3.................EDITORIAL 4.................APRIL EVENTS 6.................FEATURE 10...............YES CHEF 14...............BAKING 16...............DRINKS 20...............VIBRANT VEGE 22...............CHEESE CULTURE 24...............GIVEAWAYS
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editorial
I
have had a particularly busy month leading up to the release of Eat Mag Issue 8! Firstly, I have finished writing my book on New Zealand beer and breweries and will be being released by Craig Potton Publishing later in the year but most startling I quit my job and bought into a restaurant as well as opening a second! If you’d asked me even two months ago if I’d expected to do this the answer would have been NO WAY! Needless to say, it has been a challenging month with highs and lows.
Please Contact Us ABOUT Short, sharp and sweet, Eat New Zealand is New Zealand’s free monthly e-magazine for passionate Kiwi food and cooking enthusiasts. EDITOR Jules van Cruysen
We have a challenge for you! Check out page 10 for Huka Lodge Executive Chef Paul Froggatt quail dish! Isn’t it a beauty! If you are game enough to give it a go (pun totally intended), please make sure you take a pic and send it to us. We will be publishing the best photos in next issue. Also in this issue we have some awesome recipes from one of my favourite Mexican restaurants La Boca Loca who have just released a new book as well as recipes, articles and more. Good eating.
Jules
✉ GROUP EDITOR Richard Liew ART DIRECTOR Jodi Olsson CONTENT ENQUIRIES Email Jules on jules@eatmag.co.nz ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES Phone Jennifer Liew on 09 522 7257 or email jenniferl@espiremedia.com
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THIS MONTH
June
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mong the most exciting openings, for me anyway, is Hillside Kitchen and Cellar in Thorndon, Wellington. The reason for this is that I’ve opened it with Chef Asher Boote (also owner of Newtown’s Ramen Shop).
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It is a deli in the day with coffee and a hand full of dishes that can be enjoyed in the restaurant or taken away and a selection of cheese, charcuterie and dry goods. At night, we offer more formal dining with three and four-course menus and the option of matched drinks.
Also new in Wellington is The Arborist Bar and Eatery on the corner of Willis and Dixon St inside Trinity Hotel. Previously Eclipse, The Arborist is also installing a rooftop garden bar and offers a creative cocktail list alongside interesting food offerings.
Just concluded is ConversatioNZ the first symposium dedicated to discussing New Zealand food. It is being hosted in Christchurch and is the brainchild of Roots Restaurant owner Giulio Sturla and has the likes of Matt Lambert, Lauraine Jacobs, Michael Meredith, Bevan Smith and Giapo Grazoli presenting at it.
From the 5th to 28th of June, Hawkes Bay is hosting Winter FAWC 2015. FAWC stands for the food and wine classic and is hosted twice annually in summer and winter. With food and wine (obviously) but also art, music, hunting, a midwinter Christmas and more it is an excellent option for a break to one of the sunnier parts of New Zealand.
Jules van Cruysen is the editor of Eat NZ Magazine and a Wellington based food and drinks writer. You can read his work at XYEats.com and follow him on twitter at @xy_eats.
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YES CHEF
JALAPENOS CON QUESO, OCTOPUS & CACTUS SALAD
from La Boca Loca Collected Recipes from the Taqueria La Boca Loca is one of our favourite recipes and to celebrate the launch of their first cook book here are two favourites from the book. La Boca Loca Collected Recipes from the Taqueria is available at all good booksellers.
WORDS BY Lucas Puntam and Marianne Elliott
W
hen we opened in April 2011, fresh jalapeño chillies were nearing the end of their season. So we bought as many as we could, stuffed them with cheese and corn, and deep fried them to make these delicious snacks, known in California as jalapeño poppers.
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One customer complained they were so hot she thought she might need medical assistance. The truth is most jalapeños are hot enough to excite your average chilli lover without blowing out their taste buds. But natural variation means you may strike an especially fiery popper at any moment. That’s half the fun!
JALAPENOS CON QUESO INGREDIENTS Serves 6 12 jalapeño chillies 100g cheddar cheese, grated 1⁄3 cup sweetcorn kernels 50g flour 2 eggs, beaten 100g breadcrumbs vegetable oil for the pan
Peel, slit open three-quarters of the way, and then carefully seed without tearing the chilli open. Mix grated cheese and corn together. Carefully stuff each chilli with cheese mixture. Don’t overfill: you should still be able to close the chilli. Line up three shallow dishes. Place flour in first, eggs in second and breadcrumbs in third. Roll chilli in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs to cover. In a shallow pan over medium heat, preheat enough oil to cover halfway up a chilli. Cook chillies, turning to brown all sides until browned and cheese is melted. Drain on paper towels and serve hot.
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This dish won several of our sceptical
of the beavertail cactus, are available
friends back to octopus. If you’ve ever
at vegetable markets in Mexico and
eaten tough, rubbery calamari you may be
California. In New Zealand, though, they
reluctant to try it, but this is melt-in-your-
are very hard to find fresh. A few can be
mouth tender thanks to the pre-freezing
found in Wellington gardens, but mostly
and the slow boil.
we import jars of preserved nopales. You
Nopales, the succulent paddles (or leaves)
can substitute capsicum.
OCTOPUS & CACTUS SALAD OCTOPUS 1 small octopus, frozen (about 1kg) 1 brown onion 1 carrot 1 bay leaf 1 lemon, halved 6 peppercorns SALAD 1 brown onion, caramelised 200g nopales strips (or roasted capsicum) 200g pico de gallo ½ cup loosely packed chopped fresh coriander leaves ½ cup al pastor marinade 8 fresh corn tortillas
To tenderise the octopus, freeze it for about 90 minutes. Thaw, then cut tentacles and head from the hard base, discarding the base. Place onion, carrot, bay leaf, lemon and peppercorn in a medium pot. Add about two litres of water, bring to boil over high heat and add the octopus. If the octopus isn’t completely submerged, bring more water to a boil and add to the pot. Cover and reduce heat; simmer for 30 to 45 minutes. Remove octopus and let cool in a bowl. Once cooled, cut tentacles into five centimetre pieces, then slice those pieces thinly. Set aside. Peel the head and slice thinly. Marinate cooked octopus slices in the marinade for at least two hours. To prepare the salad, cook the onions, nopales, octopus and pico de gallo in a fry pan, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft Do not cook more than five minutes, or the octopus will get chewy. Remove from the heat, toss together and finish with coriander. Serve with corn tortillas. Reproduced from La Boca Loca, distributed by Potton & Burton, RRP $60.00, available nationwide or from www.labocaloca.co.nz. © Text/recipes: Lucas Putnam & Marianne Elliott © Images: Nicola Edmonds
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WIN WITH EATNZ! Take the Eat New Zealand Readers Challenge and be in to win!
KEEN TO EXPAND YOUR COOKING HORIZONS AND HAVE SOME FUN IN THE PROCESS?
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very month we’ll be challenging you, our awesome readers, to take the Eat New Zealand Readers Challenge. To enter, simply recreate the dishes featured in The Menu, take some photos of each of your finished dishes, and share them on our Facebook page at by the stated date. A selection of all entrants photos and the winner as judged by our editor will be announced in the following issue. Easy!
Enter this month’s readers challenge and share your photos on our facebook page
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THE CUT
Q
Manurau Quail:
Roasted Breast & a Pate of its Leg with Celeriac, Pickled Red Grapes, Toasted Brioche Foam & Light Hazelnuts Jus RECIPE BY Huka Lodge Executive Chef Paul Froggatt WORDS BY Bri DiMattina
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W
ith the laws regarding game easing a few years ago, various species of wild game became fair game for chefs to present on their menus. Amongst the first to pick up on that were Manurau Game, who specifically ‘finish’ wild caught game-birds. Goose, Pigeon, Duck, Quail, Squab and Guinea Fowl - these gourmet game birds have found their way on to some of the best menus in New Zealand. Testimony to that is how regularly their birds appear on the menu at Huka Lodge; amongst Pauls’ favourites are the pigeon and the quail. The quail, he insists are slightly gamier and stronger in flavour the meat noticeably pinker as these are well cared for birds. Most are originally wild in line with their philosophy “to run
the birds in as natural environment as possible”. Rodney (a beef farmer of forty years) and Joyce had this pegged as their retirement project… British chef Paul Froggatt left a trail of Michelin Star restaurants behind to take up his role as Executive Chef at Huka Lodge. He has since become an outstanding ambassador for New Zealand artisans’ produce. It is obvious in his passion for his work that he relishes working with it and sourcing the best that he can find. Only New Zealand products, even down to the cheeses, are used at the Lodge - and this is quite a compliment to local growers and producers. On the day that I met with him, I watched Paul assemble this stunning recipe in a matter of seconds. It follows if you are game!
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MANURAU QUAIL, ROASTED BREAST AND A PATE OF ITS LEG WITH CELERIAC, PICKLED RED GRAPES, TOASTED BRIOCHE FOAM, LIGHT HAZELNUTS JUS Serves 2
Quail Breast 4 Quail Breasts
Pan roast until medium. Quail leg pate 500g Quail leg meat 20 grams Lardo
30 grams Swiss brown mushrooms finely diced 15 grams peeled and roasted hazelnuts chopped 125 ml cream Salt and pepper
Remove the skin and bones from the Quail legs, mince them finely. Cook the Diced Swiss brown mushrooms. Mix everything together. Check seasoning. Roll in to ten gram balls. Cook steam 65ËšC for 12 minutes. Crumb in brioche and fry until golden brown before serving.
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B Toasted Brioche Foam 100grams Double chicken stock 100 grams brown butter 1pc Whole Egg 1pc Egg Yolk
50gram toasted Brioche Sherry Vinegar
Salt and pepper
Warm the double chicken stock and the brown butter separately. Make like Hollandaise with eggs and egg yolks and brown butter. Add the double chicken stock and brioche. Season with salt and vinegar.
Pickled Carrots Carrot Balls
Sweet and Sour picking liquid
Cook the carrot balls in Picking liquid. Keep in liquid until needed.
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P Pickling liquid
150 gram White wine Vinegar 50 Gram Sugar
300 gram Water
100 gram Sushi Vinegar
Bring to the boil. Chill until needed.
Pickled Rutabaga Rutabaga
Pickling Liquid
Cut to size needed. Cook in Pickling liquid.
Pickled Red Grapes Seedless Red Grapes Pickling liquid
Compress the Grapes in the pickling liquid
Roasted Celeriac puree Celeriac Milk
Brown butter
Cook the Celeriac in the milk. Once cooked pass of the liquid. Roast in the brown butter until nice and nutty.
Plate (if you need help use the photo on page 10 as a guide) and serve.
Paul Froggatt is Executive Chef at Huka Logde and has worked at some of the world’s best restaurants including Amber Restaurant at Hong Kong’s Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Restaurant Bernard Loiseau and Gidleigh Park Hotel. Bri DiMattina is the owner of the-market.co.nz which matches artisanal ingredients with New Zealands best chefs.
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FAMILY EATS
SKILLET CHICKEN with BACON & MUSHROOM SAUCE BY Scott Bell of BBQ Like Its Hot
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This is a great, wintry recipe that can be cooked on the BBQ or inside on the stove. 250g middle bacon, sliced 8 free range skinless chicken thighs ¼ cup flour 2 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped Salt & pepper ground 1 medium brown onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed 250g white button mushrooms, sliced ¼ cup white wine 1 cup chicken broth ¼ cup fresh cream 1 tablespoon oil (rice bran, olive) ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped
Prepare grill for indirect high/medium heat. Heat oil in cast iron skillet on grill over heat with lid closed. Prepare the ingredients while waiting for the grill and skillet to heat. When the skillet is nice and hot fry the bacon for around five minutes until cooked and set aside, add more oil if necessary. Mix thyme, salt and pepper with flour and coat chicken evenly and brown each side and set aside. Saute the onions for six to eight onions until soft and brown, add garlic and cook for a further one minute. Add the mushrooms and cook until mushrooms are brown and soft. Season with salt and pepper. Move the skillet to the indirect side of the grill and add wine and simmer for a minute, this should mostly evaporate. Add half the chicken broth and simmer for a further minute. Add the remaining broth and simmer for two minutes. Then stir in the cream and simmer for a further six to eight minutes, allowing to reduce slightly.Finally, stir in the bacon and add the chicken back to the skillet. Replace the lid and let the chicken bake for 20 minutes. Ideally the grill should be around 180°C. Serve chicken on a warmed plate and top with bacon & mushroom sauce and garnish with parsley. A loaf of freshly baked bread smothered in butter would go great alongside this dish.
Scott Bell writes about barbecue on his blog BBQ Like It’s Hot, he specialises on cooking over coals on his Weber Grill.
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DRINKS
Something Strong… Lifestyle and low-alcohol wines, sessionable beers - these are the current darlings of the drinks scene. And anything with a high alcohol by volume (ABV) content is getting a bad wrap: they’re monstrous, they’re unbalanced. That or a large number of drinks are being unfairly pigeonholed. Here we take another look at the big and the boozey. Note: these drinks are powerful, so please enjoy responsibly - like with food, water, conversation and cab fare for the ride home. .
BY Elissa Jordan and Jules van Cruysen
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Sherry Sherry is made in two styles: oxidatively or biologically aged. The deliberate oxidation of Oloroso and Amontillado leads to a rich, nutty, more complex style of wine that is fortified to 18% ABV. Fino and Manzanilla are aged biologically, meaning under a layer of flor yeast that protects the wines from oxidation and will be fortified to 15% ABV. The resulting wines are completely dry and much fresher with a yeasty or salty tang.
Fortified Wines Huey Lewis & the News penned the catchy masterpiece, ‘Hip to be square’, a song celebrating the importance of trends, especially unfashionable trends, could be the theme song for fortified wines. High alcohol drinks are experiencing something of a renaissance with a much younger crowd, despite being most closely associated with the blue rinse brigade. And for good reason, these are absolute treasures of the wine world.
Sherry is traditionally enjoyed with a series of small plates or tapas. Finos and Manzanilla with olives, almonds, sardines or seafood. Oloroso and Amontillado with roasted red peppers and charcuterie. Some tasty sherry’s to try include Hildago La Gitana Manzanilla (light and refreshing, saline finish), Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe Fino (bone dry, savoury with fresh citrus notes) and Lustau Los Arcos Amontillado (walnut and toffee with clove-studded orange peels).
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Port Port is rich and sweet, most commonly seen as a digestif to aid digestion at the end of a meal. Again a style of wine with a raft of sub-styles from ruby and tawny to LBV and Vintage. Each sub-style comes with its own list of rules for how it’s made and aged. Ruby ports are aged two to three years and retain a vibrant, red-fruit character with a fair bit of spice. Tawnys spend a long time ageing in barrel showing more of a raisin and nut character. Vintage ports are only made in exceptional years; they’re the height of complex, Christmas pudding and rich dried fruit notes. These wines can easily age for 50 years. All of these styles are usually fortified between 19-23% ABV. Port is the perfect excuse to stuff yourself silly and still get a sweet treat at the end of the meal.
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On your next big night out, look out for Dows Fine Ruby (dried figs and prunes married to fresh cherries and raspberries), Ferreira Tawny (dried fruits, nuts and spice), Grahams 20-year-old (rich and complex with raisin fruit and a honeyed finish) or Taylors 2011 Vintage (blackberry, tobacco, cloves and marmalade).
So has improved canopy management, which has helped overall ripeness. Finally, the likes of Robert Parker has championed the richer, fullbodied styles of wine. Even with all this high alcohol cheerleading it’s worth noting that not all varieties can handle it. Pinot Noir is one that is far more elegant and balanced when the alcohol is kept in check.
Naturally high alcohol wines Hot regions like much of Australia, Spain and California, can produce naturally high alcohol wines. These sunny spots produce grapes with a higher sugar content. These sugars are converted into alcohol as part of the fermentation. Grape sugars have gone up in the past two decades, resulting in an average increase of 2% ABV. Global warming has played a part in the increase.
Here are a few wines that pack a punch and are best enjoyed when you won’t need to drive anytime soon. Californian Sebastiani Zinfandel 2012 at 14.9% (white pepper, cedar and leather with red berries), Australian Glaetzer Shiraz Amon Ra 2012 at 15.5% (red and black fruit, chocolate and liquorice), an impressive alcohol and bottle price at $100+. Also from Australia but at a far more affordable $16 is the Quarisa Caravan Petite Sirah 2013 at 14.5% (juicy plums, smoke and vanilla sweetness).
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Beers of formidable strength It’s not just wines that can carry a hefty weight of alcohol while remaining balanced and enjoyable. Bourbon barrelaged beers, barley wine and ice beers are all lesser-known styles of beer that put the everyday lager to shame. When it comes to beer alcohol equals flavour, which is not to say that it makes better beer. Balance is more important than sheer power but the more malt (or other adjuncts) added to beer the more flavour it has and the more flavour (in the form of hop aromas and bitterness) it can carry. So it’s not a surprise to see more and more brewers move to bigger and bigger beers; this is especially true of international beers. There are a couple of more common examples of these styles, most of which are amplified versions of other styles like IPA and Stouts. Thus we get double (or imperial) IPA’s and Imperial Stouts (although brewers are beginning to make triple and quadruple examples of these styles with ABV sometimes getting up to the late teens.
For a kiwi example of a Double IPA done right I can look no further than Liberty Citra, it is named after the hop it uses which is packed full of citrusy flavours. It’s big but balanced. Likewise for an Imperial Stout I cannot go past the new Lord Almighty Ursus this is a 12% monster full of vanilla and coffee notes and is a stunning dessert beer.
Elissa Jordan is also known as the Winey Little Bitch, she blogs about New Zealand and International Wine and can be found on twitter @winewinenz Jules van Cruysen is the editor of Eat NZ Magazine and a Wellington based food and drinks writer. You can read his work at XYEats.com and follow him on twitter at @xy_eats.
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WISE WORDS
“The way you see people is the way you treat them, and the way you treat them is what they become.” Johann Wolfgang von Goethe German Writer & Philosopher, 1749-1832
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BAKING
Fruit Crumble
I am pretty sure my husband married me for my mother’s crumble. With the high expectations he has I have had to learn to make a crumble just like my mum’s. It has taken a few years and a few trials and I have added ingredients along the way. I guess I now make my crumble, it must be good as we are still married.
BY Emma Tucker
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M
y tweaks have included adding ground almonds and lowering the sugar content. Mainly we have apple crumble and it certainly works well. A dash of cinnamon, ginger or even cardamom often make an appearance. The beauty of crumble is that it can be made with many different fruits and you can mix and match. Using what is in season is always as good thing, as is using up what sitting in the fruit bowl or fridge. With apples, I do peel the fruit but mostly leave the skin on. It is important to have the fruit cut to roughly the same size so
that it cooks evenly. I never precook the fruit in any way and find that it softens fine as the crumble topping cooks. If using frozen fruit, I don’t defrost it. My favourite contenders for a delicious crumble would have to be apples, blueberries, raspberries, pears, blackberries, rhubarb and stone fruits. Get inventive with the filling and spices, enjoy the easy topping. Autumn is definately the start of crumble season. I often stick a crumble in with a roast dinner about 15 minutes before the roast is finished and then leave in the turned off oven.
2-3 cup of suitable fruit evenly diced 100 g butter melted 1 cup plain flour 1/2 cup oats 1/2 cup ground almonds 1/3 cup of packed light brown sugar 1-2 tsp of chosen spice (cinnamon, ginger or cardamom)
Heat oven to 180 C. Put the prepared fruit into a suitable ovenproof dish, a dish with some depth is good. I use a rectangular four to six serving sized ceramic dish. Melt the butter in a medium sized glass bowl or saucepan. Add all of the other ingredients. Give everything a good strip and leave for around five minutes so the butter soaks into the mixture. Simply sprinkle the crumble mix over the fruit. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes until the fruit appears to be hot and bubbly underneath and the crumble topping is a mid brown colour. As the fruit gets very hot it is a good idea to leave it to cool for a while. Even a 15 minute rest is better than a burnt tongue. Top with your favourite choice between custard, cream or ice cream. Enjoy! Emma Tucker is Muffin-Mum, she writes about baking, cooking and Wellington restaurants.
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CHEESE CULTURE
Kapiti Kikorangi Blue Butter I have written a few articles highlighting some smaller New Zealand Artisans showcasing their stunning artisan cheeses. Kapiti Kikorangi Blue Butter is a well-crafted cheese from humble beginnings which is now on the global stage. Kapiti have won numerous awards over the years for a large range of their cheeses. BY Bri DiMattina
K
apiti cheeses was once a small and artisanal cheesemaker but in the hands of the Kapiti co-founder
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Fonterra bought Kapiti in 2005 from Neville and Ross, but I love the fact that they have, with the utmost integrity,
and cheese-maker Ross McCullum it has
safeguarded the craft behind the cheeses.
become a giant. The story begins in 1984
Years ago they were made individually,
with one staff member and (as always)
entirely by hand. These days the output is
a supportive family, where it began its
larger and the creation more streamlined
journey slowly towards the force it is
but the product no less delicious.
now. While whether it fits the definition
Kahurangi Blue, like most other blue
of artisanal now is up for debate, it
varieties, derives its blue from mold spores
absolutely fits the definition of ‘craft’. As a
of Penicillium (other blue varieties include
well-crafted, true-blue New Zealand gem,
Roquefort or Glaucum). Originally these
it has won a place in this line-up of cheese
cheeses were left to age in caves where
stories. Loved by the New Zealand public
the mold and the moisture were naturally
(they voted for its position as ‘peoples
present, and contributed to the cheese
choice’), it is also a ‘class’ ambassador for
becoming blue. Kapiti uses more scientific
New Zealand export cheeses winning ‘top
methods and modern equipment but
export cheese’ at the NZSCA awards.
achieves a very similar result.
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KAHURANGI BUTTER This little recipe highlights the creaminess of the Kahurangi 300g butter 300g Kahurangi Blue
Have all of these at room temperature. Place the Kahurangi in a bowl (or a mixer with K beater on very low speed).Once softened by the stirring, add the soft (but not melted) butter. Mix further until fully combined. At this point I often split the mixture in two, and add about 60g of toasted walnuts to one of the mixes. Spoon onto a couple of sheets of greaseproof paper and mould gently into rolls. Place in the fridge until it all firms up again. The choices on how to serve this are endless (particularly if you are a blue cheese lover)but some good options include: As a sauce on a great steak, soaking gently into mashed potatoes, or instead of garlic in garlic bread. Bri DiMattina is the owner of The Market which matches artisanal ingredients with New Zealands best chefs.
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SUBSCRIBER GIVEAWAYS
E
ach month all Eat New Zealand subscribers automatically go in the draw to win cool food and cooking giveaways and prizes. Simply check this page each month to see if you’ve won and get in touch with your delivery details by the stated date to claim your prize!
This month’s winners
ont c s t s i k Giveaway #1: c o t s l loca r o f Lara Fischel-Chisholm o. c . Congratulations to e n i v c a m min@ adYou’ve Lara. won a beautiful set of 579 745 all 09 or cCasual Authentis stemless wine glasses from Spiegelau!
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Giveaway #2: Georgia Jackson Congratulations, Georgia. You’ve won an awesome Wellington Gourmet Shopping Bag and a copy of The Dominion Post From the Menu cookbook from Moore Wilson’s!
Giveaway #3: James Rutherford Congratulations, Ron. You’ve won a fun night out for two, with a double pass cooking experience from Social Cooking!
If you’re one of the lucky subscribers named above, email your delivery details to jenniferl@espiremedia.com by 5pm, Friday 26th June 2015, to claim your prize.
For local stockists contact admin@macvine.co.nz or call (09) 579 7451 www.eatmag.co.nz
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“Let the stoics say what they please, we do not eat for the good of living, but because the meat is savory and the appetite is keen.� -Ralph Waldo Emerson
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