Miguel Navarro of Es Fum

CUISINE THAT WARMS THE HEART

MIGUEL NAVARRO OFES FUM

WORDS MARISA CUTILLAS PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF THE ST. REGIS MARDAVALL MALLORCA RESORT

Serious gastronomes who visit the largest of the Balearic Islands (Mallorca) religiously book a stay at the fivestar St. Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort. This exquisite ‘palace away from home’, nestled between the Tramuntana mountain range and the Mediterranean, pampers guests with features such as a seafront golf course, contemporary Mallorcan artworks, and personal butler service. It is only fitting that a hotel of this calibre should have its own Michelin-starred restaurant, Es Fum, reigned over by the young Chef, Miguel Navarro.

Miguel’s youth belies his vast experience. He was only 16 when he began his culinary career at his family’s restaurant on La Gomera island. He was quickly bitten by the culinary bug and jumped at the chance to apprentice at Restaurante Martín Berasategui, the three-Michelin star establishment located in Gipuzkoa in the Basque Country. Five years later, Miguel began working for The Ritz-Carlton Abama Hotel, where, once again under the guiding hand of Martín Berasategui, he achieved the first Michelin star for the restaurant, MB. In 2010, he decided to broaden his horizons, heading to Germany to work alongside Chef Sven Elverfeld of Aqua – a three-Michelin-starred restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton Wolfsburg.

He continued to learn new techniques at a myriad of threeMichelin-starred establishments, including Piazza Duomo in Italy, Azurmendi in the Basque Country, and El Celler de Can Roca in Girona. He additionally formed part of Martin Berasategui’s team in Barcelona, letting his talent unfold alongside Paolo Casagrande at the threeMichelin-starred stalwart, Lasarte, in the city.

Having built an impressive CV, Miguel was ready to return to his roots in Mallorca – the home of his grandmother. Since 2017, He has shone as Executive Chef at Es Fum, achieving a Repsol sun in addition to the coveted Michelin star.

Miguel describes his vision for Es Fum as “warm cuisine for a warm climate… our aim is to extract the maximum flavour from products of the very best quality.” He finds his inspiration in the people, places, and moments that have given him the greatest joy in life. His wish is to share these positive sensations with diners. The Chef also has a keen interest in plant-based cuisine, in accordance with increased demand from clients. Vegans, vegetarians, and health buffs alike will delight in delicate, creatively presented dishes such as tender asparagus and pea quinoa, glazed vegetables, smoked tofu and black olives.

You can opt for one of two menus at Es Fum. The Petite Menú comprises five dishes and one dessert, while the Menú Degustación (Tasting Menu) is made up of seven dishes, a cocktail and dessert. The smaller menu will tantalise your taste buds with dishes like marinated tuna loin; creamy fennel rice, smoked octopus and bitter lemon crème; and lamb cutlets, aubergine caviar and mustard jus. For dessert, how does a date, pistachio and black tea treat sound?

The Tasting Menu surpasses even the savviest diner’s expectations with dishes like the black ravioli with red shrimp and watercress foam; egg yolk with cauliflower and Maxorata cheese; grilled amberjack fish with a sprout salad; and pigeon breast, apricots and a balsamic sauce. Top this all off with the Es Fum Gin fizz, chocolate, and coffee.

Dishes are accompanied by a list of wines curated by Es Fum’s sommelier, Julianna González. The restaurant has 150 different bottles to select from.

Sustainability is a priority at Es Fum. The team is doing its best to foster the circular economy, taking residues from food and the Hotel’s own garden to generate compost. The latter is, in turn, sent to the restaurant’s providers, who use it to grow produce that makes its way to Es Fum. All data pertaining to each product (including the residue collected, the amount of compost generated and the degree to which carbon footprints are reduced) is stored on the blockchain, where it can be viewed at any time.

At Es Fum, Miguel and his team seek to stimulate the senses not only through the aroma, taste, and visual appeal of their dishes, but also through the beauty of light, the inviting textures of the restaurant’s decorative elements, and the artworks that embellish the restaurant. For an inspiring, succulent, uplifting meal, book a table in the Autumn/ Winter season and let the warmth, artistry, and flavour overtake you. e