PEOPLE OF GALLE FORT - 2019

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GALLE FORT

PEOPLE OF .d,q fldgqj

PEOPLE OF GALLE FORT

PEOPLE OF GALLE FORT

.d,q fldgqj fhyp Nfhl;il

Galle Fort is a gem of a heritage town, its red-roofed white-washed colonial houses catapult you back to days-long-gone. But more than the buildings, it’s the people that make this place unique. Fort is a place that celebrates unity in diversity; a glorious potpourri of ethnicity with a cosmopolitan vibe that is a vivid reminder of its multicultural past.

We wanted to find the soul of Galle

So we wandered, we listened, and we met some amazing people on the way.

MEET THE LOCALS HEAR THEIR STORIES LEARN WHAT THEY LOVE

THE SOUL OF

GALLE

.d,q k.rfha Ôjkd,sh

efuj ;jpd; capHehb

STORIES OF compassion creation passion pleasure profession reflection

compassion

[

noun ]

~ a strong feeling of sympathy, understanding and kindness for others and a willingness to help them

COMPASSION IN FORT

The Fort community is united. Residents know each other by name and house number, and often their families have a long history of friendship. Sharing foods at festival times, supporting the different religious institutions and each other is an integral part of everyday life.

Galle Fort life is inexplicable… There is only one religion: the religion of love. There is only one caste: the caste of humanity. There is only one language: the language of the heart.

Banking in the blood

SISTERS, FORT RESIDENTS AND RETIRED BANKERS

66 Leyn Baan Street

wxl 66> f,aka ndka ùÈh . 66> nyapd; ghz; t Pjp

f,a j,g uqiqjQ nexl=lrKh . ,uj ;jj ;jpy tq ;fpaply;

Our great-grandfather moved to the Fort from Jaffna to work for the Mercantile Bank on Church Street when it was under British management. At that time, there were about six Jaffna Tamil families living here. Our father gave us special encouragement in our careers; we both worked for the same bank until we retired. Living here we have earned good people and we feel safe. We need go out of the Fort for very little – there are courts, banks, schools. We would never sell the house. When we go to Colombo we feel lost. Just seeing the Galle Road gives us a headache!

A cosmopolitan mix nyq cd;sl uqiqjla . nghJg;gw ;whsHfspd; xU fyit

We practise different religions in the Fort but we all live together in perfect harmony and with good will. What unites us is love, and food, of course! During Ramadan, friends send us chicken biriyani, a soup called kanjee and a dessert called watalappan. At Sinhala and Tamil New Year we are delivered treats such as kokis and kevum and at Christmas our Christian friend brings us delicious Christmas cake. For Thai Pongal we give sweet milk rice known as sakkarai sadam. There has always been a friendly atmosphere.

Memories

u;lhk . epidTfs;

Our mother used to love sitting here in the evenings and she would often offer sweets and cold drinks to people passing by. Each morning, we walk the dogs on the ramparts and look over to Rumassala, which is believed to have be a part of the Himalayas dropped by Hanuman, the monkey god. Jayanthi enjoys swimming off Sea Beach and I enjoy going to the library. My father was a member there for 70 years and I remember when Norah Roberts, author of Galle As Quiet as Sleep was the librarian.

SHANTHINI & JAYANTHI MAHADEVA

I like how quiet the Fort is; at night it’s almost silent. There are good people all around in Fort. Everyone is a friend.

MR SUGATHADASA

FORT RESIDENT, FORMER ACCOUNTANT AND RETIRED LIBRARIAN

69 Lighthouse Street

wxl 69, m%oSmd.dr ùÈh . 69 fyq;fiu tpsf;f t Pjp

The Fort connection fldgqfõ in`o;djh Nfhl ;ilAldhd njhlHG

My wife and I moved to the Fort in 1977. She taught at Southlands Collage and so knew lots of people already. The house was previously occupied by government servants – mainly Jaffna Tamils who came to work in Galle as engineers and doctors because there was a shortage of qualified staff.

Rampart rambles

fldgq neïfï je,ajgdrï . nfhj;jsg gFjpfspy Rw ;wpj ;jphpjy;

I enjoy doing a quarter of a mile walk along the ramparts. On the way back home, I stop at the temple for about an hour and speak with the priest. Once a month, I take food to the monks. I like how quiet the Fort is; at night it’s almost silent. A vehicle comes through only once every few hours.

Zest for life

Ôú;h ú`oSu . tho;tpy; xU RitahHtk

I was the Fort librarian from 2011-2016. During that time, I improved the place and organised the shelves. I would have stayed on but I was advised to rest. When I finally retired, I was 90! Even now, I still go for all the committee meetings. My favourite books date from the British period. Some were printed as far back as the early 1800s; they describe the living conditions of Sri Lankans at the time.

ABEYWICKRAMA

”I’ve travelled widely but I’ve never seen another place like it. Even the forts in Malacca and Penang don’t compare in terms of the mixed culture. There is nowhere like our Galle Fort; my heart is there.

SHERIFF

FORMER FORT RESIDENT AND GEMMOLOGIST

Lighthouse Street

m%oSmd.dr ùÈh . fyq;fiu tpsf;f t Pjp

Open houses wereKq ksjdi . jpwe;j t PLfs;

I grew up on Lighthouse Street opposite Fortaleza until my family moved to Colombo in 1970. The Fort is unique because of the mixed culture that prevails even to this day. Also safety has always been 100%. Our front doors were opened at 6am; newspapers and milk were taken in and they would remain wide open all day. My brothers and I would loaf around at night and the last one in would lock up. I’ve never seen that type of safety anywhere else.

Beach days

fjrf<a f.fjk ojia . flw;fiu ehl;fs

In my time the community was so closely knit. On Saturdays we would spend the whole morning on Lady’s Sea Bath beach. We would be in swimming shorts for most of the day. Sometimes I would have lunch at a friend’s place and some other friend who had come late into the Fort, would probably be having lunch at mine.

Adventures

úl%uhk . rhfrq;fs;

With my friends I once spent the night on Crow Island, opposite Flag Rock. We waded over and under cover of the bushes set up camp. We swam and speared fish. Using driftwood, we lit a fire and cooked our catch for dinner. We started dancing around the fire and creating one hell of a scene. The harbour police were patrolling up and down but they couldn’t approach - it was too rough and rocky!

My mother knew everyone in the Fort. She practiced for 48 years and for 8 of those she was the only female lawyer in Galle. The courts have an important place here and I feel strongly that they should remain.

VIVEKA

FORT RESIDENT AND CIVIL LAWYER

1 Church Cross Street

A legal tradition

kS;s mrïmrdj . rl;l hPjpahd ghuk;ghpak

Following in the footsteps of my mother, Charlotte Samaranayake, I practice as a civil lawyer focusing on land matters and divorce. I have very few clients from the Fort as it’s a place where there aren’t many problems but occasionally, I handle property cases. I have an office on Leyn Baan Street, on the edge of the Law Court Square, which was previously my mother’s and it still has her nameboard. She practiced for 48 years and for 8 of those she was the only female lawyer in Galle. Now the gender balance has shifted and I estimate that about 75% of the lawyers in the Fort are women.

Historic values

ft;sydisl w.h . tuyhw ;Wg ngWkjp

The courts have an important place here and I feel strongly that they should remain. They are part of its history. They also add security and are conveniently placed for the public as they are within short walking distance of the Galle Bus Stand.

Christmas memories

k;a;,a u;l . ej;jhH epidTfs

My mother knew everyone in the Fort. She was the lawyer for Nesta Brohier who formally owned the New Oriental Hotel (now the Amangalla on Church Street). We were invited there each Christmas Eve. Nesta served delicious breeder, a sweet cake, which she made as one of her Dutch traditions. At that time everyone knew each other so well and there was a large Burgher community in the Fort. Later many of the families migrated abroad.

DHARSHINI

”I love the Fort and the whole Galle area – I enjoy knowing so many people by name. We are like one family. Even during the 1980s when there were political problems in the country, there was unity here.

FORT RESIDENT, FORMER ACCOUNTANT AND RETIRED LIBRARIAN

Adapting to Fort life

fldgqfõ Ôú;hg wkq.; ùu . Nfhl;il tho;f ;iff;F gof;fg ;gLjy;

73 Pedlar Street

My father bought this old Dutch house in 1979. When we first moved here, we didn’t like the Fort because it was undeveloped and there were lots of cows wandering the streets. Many of the houses were in disrepair and the rooms were dark. However, over time we came to realise this is a fine place to live, mainly because there are so few problems. People live together peacefully as one community. Even if we leave our front door open and go out for a few hours, the house will be safe.

Cultural roots ixialD;sl uQ,hka . fyhrhu NtHfs

My wife, two children and I lived in the US for 13 years but once my father passed away, we returned to Sri Lanka. Compared to the US, we have much less material comfort, but we feel it’s important our children understand their culture and roots. Once they have that grounding, they won’t be lost in the world.

A safe haven wdrlaIs; keõ f;dg . ghJfhg ;ghd xU Gfyplk;

Even during the 1980s when there were political problems in the country, there was unity here. While there was a curfew in Galle, residents played cricket on the ramparts. More recently, when there was unrest outside the Fort, we had our children’s friends to stay. For Sri Lankan New Year and Ramadan we have always shared foods; people are very close. We all know each other by name; it’s not like other places where people are scattered. If something happens, we get together. We look after each and everybody. We have a community vigilance service among Fort residents but there are very rarely problems here. We are like one family.

PRASANNA ABEYWICKRAMA

[ noun ] ~ the process of making something new creation

CREATION IN FORT

The Fort is a place that inspires artists, jewellery designers, experience creators and restauranteurs. For many, it is a canvas that allows freedom of expression.

Who I am today has a lot to do with the Fort. It has moulded me in every way, it has been my university. It’s where I’ve learnt everything.

ATHEEQ

CEO OF CEYLON SOUL, EXPERIENCE CREATOR AND PHOTOGRAPHER

Often found at the Galle Fort Art Gallery on Leyn Baan Street

f,aka ndka ùÈfha fyda frday,a úSÈfha msysá frdà fj<`oief,ysoS ks;r yuqúh yel nghJthf nyapd; ghz; t Pjpapy; my ;yJ itj ;jparhiy tPjpapy; cs;s nuhl ;bf filapy; fhzKbAk;;

Fort philosophies

fldgqfõ Ñka;kh . Nfhl;il jj ;Jtq;fs;

Who I am today has a lot to do with the Fort. It has moulded me in every way: the languages I speak, the philosophies I have in my head, those I have met. The philosophy of the place includes oneness, unity, togetherness, sharing and caring. The Fort is rich in every way. You have safety and really good food. The meal that reminds me most of the Fort is ghee rice, breadfruit curry, fried beef and salad. My introduction to chutney came from one of my aunties who lived in Leyn Baan street. She makes a phenomenal chutney from dates, mangoes and limes.

Sharing the Fort’s soul

fldgqfõ Ôjkd,sh fnod yod .ekSu . Nfhl;ilapd; capHg ;Gs;s jd;ikiag gfpHe;Jnfhs;sy; For about ten years, I have given walking tours of the Fort. I have met flm stars, criminal lawyers, royalty, business people, broad and narrow-minded people, those of different sexualities and statuses. I don’t know all the precise details about every building but I know about the community. What we have in common is humanity and a way of life. Ivalue this place so much and really treasure it. I could be doing other things but I stick to being here. I am living in paradise. Everything I have started in my life has taken off fromhere including my interest in travel and photography.

Time to talk

l;djg fj,dj . NgRtjw ;fhd Neuk

By mingling with other people and also living in Colombo and Singapore I have learnt a lot, but this is where I have learnt the most. Just observing how people interact is interesting. If you see someone you know, you always stop and say hi. A route which would normally take 30 seconds, takes 5 minutes in the Fort because people always stop to speak to you. That is so different to just ignoring or tooting your horn. Here nobody will just pass by without stopping.

IFTHIKAR

Galle Fort is a colony made up of family and friends.

JEWELLER AND FORMER FORT RESIDENT

47 Church Street

Bursting with history

w;S;h;a iu`. je<,Shdu . tuyhw ;iw tpthpj;jy;

My father opened the shop here in 1978 in what was his bedroom! When I frst joined the family business, I would cycle to Elliott Street in Galle three times a day. This is where the goldsmiths have their shops. Many are from the Sinhalese nandana caste. Generations of experience means they can set million-dollar stones with confdence. Sadly, this skill is vanishing. The best goldsmiths can earn as much as doctors; they are as skilled as anyone on the island.

Wealth of experience

m<mqreoafoa jákdlu . mDgtk; vd;Dk; nry;tk;

My passion lies in designing and making unusual pieces of jewellery, as well as travelling abroad for shows. When I was younger, I studied with a French designer who taught me a lot. We make everything in our Fort workshop. We employ a goldsmith and silversmith, as well as two gem cutters – one specialises in faceting and the other in cabochon stones. Several employees have been with us for at least 20 years.

Standouts

woaú;Sh ks¾udK . gpugy;ak; tha;e;jit

I have a few favourite pieces including a gold and single cut diamond necklace from my mother’s side of the family – it’s about 150-years-old. My grandfather was an opal merchant and the scales he used for weighing the stones, which were shipped from Australia, is another treasured item. From the jewellery I have designed, I particularly like a hammered gold ring set with multi-coloured sapphires. In my opinion, the Ceylon sapphires are still the best in the world. They have few inclusions and a beautiful sky-blue colour.

I was born in what is now The Rampart Hotel. There is a connection between all residents. I really love the Fort: it’s quiet and safe. We had so much freedom growing up here.

CO-OWNER

AND MANAGER OF AMEEN HOTEL

40 Hospital Street

wxl 40, frday,a ùÈh . 40 itj ;jparhiy tPjp

A Fort staple fldgqfõ m%Odk ia:dkh . Nfhl;ilAldhd ,izg ;G

The restaurant started at our home. I began by making soup, then lunches and roti. Our dishes were popular so we decided to begin the business. That was 25 years ago. When we frst opened, we sold fried rice and kottu roti. Now our bestseller is the rice and curry we serve at lunchtime. People also come and enjoy cups of tea. Normally, we are open all week apart from Fridays because of Jumma prayers. Our busiest times are between 8-10am and 12-2pm. During Ramadan we are very busy after 5pm when customers come to break their fast.

A meeting spot yuqùfï ;smam, . re;jpg ;gjw ;fhd xU ,lk

Everybody comes to the restaurant and they are all friendly with us. People often refer to it as ‘akka’s (older sister’s) shop’. The community here is so nice. There is no racism. There is a connection between all residents. Everyone respects each other and there’s a lot of harmony. I love this job, especially as I am doing it in my home town.

Close

to home

ksjig kqÿßka . tPl;Lf;F mUfhikapy;

I don’t have a favourite spot in the Fort but I like the fact my house is here and in my free time, I enjoy taking walks.

SITHEY KADEEJA MOHOMAD

I would love to have a home here in future.
There is no other place like this. You can be on the ramparts in a few minutes. When I stay in Colombo for too long, I feel like I’m in a cage.

FORT RESIDENT, SOFTWARE ENGINEER STUDENT AND GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Fort life

fldgqfõ Ôú;h . Nfhl;il tho;f;if

My favourite time in the Fort is at about 8.30pm when the streets are quiet. You can wear what you like and roam around. During the Galle Literary Festival, which I have volunteered at for the past four years, it’s especially fun as we often stay up past midnight. I am lucky because my parents are quite relaxed. My favourite area has to be Pedlar Street because it’s always full of people and has a good vibe. I also love the ramparts. When I was growing up my sisters and I had friends everywhere. We would play seven stones and cricket on the street, and football on the ramparts with the boys.

Ice-cream shop whsia l%Sï fj<`oi, . I];fphPk fil

My aunty has an ice-cream shop called Dairy King right next to our house so I help her serve the customers. I enjoy meeting people from different cultures. Sometimes we talk and share stories for hours, especially if they come in the evening. The ice-cream is all homemade using my aunt’s secret recipe. My favourite favours are passionfruit and crunchy cashew. In fact, I like all of them apart from the spicy ones like ginger.

A narrow escape

kQf,ka fíÍula . mUe;jg ;G

When the Tsunami hit in 2004, I was 5. I was happily playing in front of the house, when I noticed people running. I quickly told my uncle who was watching a cricket match on TV. He didn’t think it was serious and thought it was an extra high tide or something like that. Before long, water was pouring down Church Street. My aunt picked me up but because I was quite chubby in those days, she couldn’t carry me easily. I slipped and got carried down the street but was luckily rescued by an uncle who was standing outside the Arabic College. I remember searching for my shoe underwater before he pulled me out. The water was brown - I can still see and feel it. That was an experience I will never forget.

AFREEN KUMIE

I was often inspired to include elements of the Fort in my paintings and I will always think of it as part of my life.

ASIA H

ARTIST, GALLERY CO-OWNER AND FITNESS RETREAT MANAGING PARTNER

Exotic Roots, 50A Lighthouse Street

tlafidála rEÜia, wxl 50 tAa, m%oSmd.dr ùÈh maw ;gz ;G NtHfs;> 50A fyq;fiutpsf;f t Pjp

Fort inspiration

fldgqfõ m%fndaOh . m%fndaOh Nfhl;ilapdhy <Hf;fg ;gly;

When I was younger, I was often inspired to include elements of the Fort in my paintings: the architecture and tuk tuks. I would describe my paintings as fantasy art. They were inspired by Sri Lanka and included elephants, temples, and fowers iconic to the island. I was also infuenced by old books and vintage tapestries from Sri Lanka, India, China and Japan. Now I am a lot freer in my style, and just paint whatever I feel like!

Creative impulses

ks¾udkd;aul msìoSu . Mf;fG+Htkhd J}z ;Ljy;fs;

More than anything, my Mum was my main inspiration as she was always painting when we were growing up. Also having freedom and time helps my creativity. Sometimes ideas pop into my head just before I go to sleep. When I start painting, the ideas fow and I spend days and weeks on one project. I like these times because everything clears from my mind and I can just blast some music or listen to a podcast and create.

A family effort

mjqf,a jEhula . xU FLk;g Kaw ;rp

It feels like the Fort has changed a lot since we frst moved to Galle in 2001 but everything in life changes and I still love it. My favourite place is our gallery. My Mum and I moved it from Church Street to the current location. It took a long time but I loved working on it and it brought us closer as mother and daughter. It was a good challenge! I enjoy meeting new people when I’m at the gallery.

[ noun ] ~ ambition that is materialised into action by putting heart and soul into something

PASSION IN FORT

The Fort is a place where passions exist close to the surface. It’s common to meet people who love what they do whether it’s adrenalin-fuelled freestyle diving, sharing old recipes passed down through generations or preserving the unique historical heritage.

Galle Fort has unique dishes and menus, passed down through families for generations.

Mother’s touch

ujf.a w;a.=Kh . jhapd; ] ;ghprk;

FORMER FORT RESIDENT, HOME COOK AND RETIRED MEDIA AGENT

Leyn Baan Street

f,aka ndka úÈh . nyapd; ghz; t Pjp

My mother, Seniya Noordeen, grew up in the Fort. She enjoyed sharing her recipes and gave cookery classes. These were very popular and so in 1958 she wrote a book called ‘Muslim Cookery’, which is now in its 5th edition. The Fort has special dishes including adukku roti, layers of pancake with a beef filling; curries; an almond sherbet drink; and firiny, a semolina pudding. I really miss my mother’s food. Even her simple biryani was so tasty - the mix of spices was what made it.

Special preparations

úfYaIs; lEu jÜfgdare . tpNrl jahhpg ;Gf;fs;

She used to make some lovely fish curries including a badau (mullet) curry. The seafood is so fresh in Galle. I couldn’t even think of making that dish in Colombo. It is prepared with aubergine, sweet potato, jackfruit, breadfruit, unripe mango, coconut milk and spices such as cinnamon and mustard seeds. Another Fort specialty is avial. It is a curry made with a mixture of sweet potato, half-ripe papaya, spinach and dried fish. Ground rice and coconut is added which makes the sauce thick and nutritious. It is commonly served with seer fish and a range of sambols.

Picnics

flá úfkdao .uka . Rw;Wyhf;fs

‘Picnic rice’ is a whole Galle Fort menu. It consists of about 16 dry curries including: beef, chicken, fish, prawns/salted fish, aubergine and ash plantain, potato, mango, fried boiled eggs, fried jackfruit seeds, fried sweet potato pieces and chutney. The picnic would be taken to friends’ houses outside the Fort. There the curries were laid out on a verandah or under the shade of a tree on a large banana leaf. Everyone would sit either side and enjoy the feast!

RILEY RAHUMAN

I am very attached to the Fort; we are a very closely-knit community. We don’t think of religion, race or creed.

Rampart life

FORT RESIDENT, FRENCH AND ENGLISH TEACHER, AND CONSTANT LEARNER

61 Leyn Baan Street

wxl 61, f,aka ndka ùÈh . 61 nyapd; ghz; t Pjp

fldgq mjqf¾ Ôú;h . muzpg ;ghd tho;f;if

Each morning we would be collected by a private school bus which cost 3 cents a journey. We shared the bus with the boys until we attained age and after that travelled by bullock cart. As soon as we came home in the afternoon, we used to run out of our back door onto the ramparts. There we would happily play games such as hopscotch and rounders. Sometimes we organised sports meets. Later I became an avid reader – my favourite authors were Enid Blyton and Agatha Christie. We used to exchange our books for 10 cents at Dr Reuben’s ‘Read and Return’ shop on Pedlar Street.

Never stop learning fkdkj;sk bf.kqu . fw;wiy xUNghJk epWj ;jhjpUj ;jy;

I taught for 38 years, first in a government school and then at Sacred Heart Convent in Galle. These days I give tuition classes at home. Initially I was an English teacher but at 38 I learnt French and am now fluent. At 52 I gained my degree! I’ve never thought about why I continue studying – I just like to learn. I even learnt to swim at the age of 54. After the tsunami an English lady started a group for female teachers and doctors which I joined. Some mornings, when I spot others bathing, I go in opposite the Lighthouse.

Close community

ióm ck;djla . mz ;kpj ;j r%fk

Every Thursday I go to a ladies-get-together and prayer group on Lighthouse Street. We take it in turns to prepare a dish which we enjoy afterwards with some coffee. Pastries, buns, biriyani and a macaroni dish are some of the favourites. On the First Tuesday of every month, twelve of us meet at the Muslim Cultural Association. Our classic refreshment is faluda, a sweet drink. I am very attached to the Fort; it’s home sweet home.

MRS FATHIMA HANIM SIYOOTHY

Money is not what motivates me. This is a passion as much as a profession and I get to dive in one of the most beautiful places in the world.

FREESTYLE DIVER AND NATURAL PHILOSOPHER

Flag Rock Bastion, Rampart Street

fldä., n,fldgqj fldgq neïu ùÈh . nfhb ghiw nfhj;jsk;> uk;ghHl; t Pjp

Free spirit

ksoyia Ôj .=Kh . RahjPdkhd czHT

I’ve been diving from the rampart walls since I was 13. Visitors to the Fort sometimes throw coins off Flag Rock and so with friends, we would jump in and collect them! For a year I only jumped from the lowest level as a form of training. The first time I attempted to dive from the top, I jumped clumsily because I was so nervous. I’ve had small scratches but luckily, I’ve never been seriously injured. Now there are only three of us that dive: me, Asanka and Laksitha. You need to be very physically fit and have a lot of confidence. Some say it’s the shallowest freestyle dive in the world because the pools are only about 4 foot deep.

It’s all in the technique Ys,am l%ufha jeo.;alu . ,it midj ;Jk; El ;gj;jpNyNa jq ;fpAs;sJ

Before every jump I say a small prayer and pay respect to my legs and feet. Then I run up to the edge of the rock and spring up on my toes, sailing out for 2 metres before shallow diving into the pools below. When the water level is at its lowest from December-March we can show off our skills even more. It’s possible to dive 365 days of the year but there are some days when it’s very rough that I do still get nervous and feel that it’s not worth the risk. Even though I lost ten members of my family in the 2004 Tsunami, I have so much respect and love for the ocean.

Diving with passion

lsñoSfï ,eÈhdj . NguhHtj ;Jld; RopNahb ePe;Jjy;

I love the atmosphere in the Fort; it’s peaceful and safe. I also enjoy meeting people from different countries and learning a little of their languages. I have been filmed by television channels but to me, it doesn’t matter who watches, this is my profession and passion.

CHATHURA BUDDIKA

Fort is a peaceful place with a special essence. I love the community. So many different people come here: bank staff, sisters from the chapel, trainee teachers from Southlands College and young monks.

YOUNG MEN’S BUDDHIST ASSOCIATION RESTAURANT OWNER

Young Men’s Buddhist Association (YMBA), Lighthouse Street

;reK fn!oaO ix.uh ^jhs’ tï’ î’ tA’&, m%oSmd.dr ùÈh ,isQH ngsj ;j rq;fk; (it.vk ;.g P.V.)> fyq;fiu tpsf;f tPjp

A community service

m%cd fiajhla . xU r%f Nrit

My husband began the restaurant in 1998 – he loved the Fort and I continue to run it in his honour. The residents here have only ever helped me. Money doesn’t matter. In 21 years. I haven’t saved. My main aim is to ensure people’s stomachs are full. My happiness comes from meeting different customers, providing them with affordable meals and having good connections with the local community. Those of all faiths, professions and social backgrounds come.

Culinary Specialities

bjqï msyqï úfYaI;d . rikaw ;fiy rpwg;gk ;rq ;fs

Our most popular dish is red rice and curry, which we serve every day from 5.30am-3.30pm. Many customers say they enjoy the friendly atmosphere, and dishes such as our gotukola salad, jackfruit and bitter gourd curries, which remind them of home-cooked food. Egg hoppers are also very popular in the mornings – we make these with brown rice flour. We even make a special mild coconut milk curry for our customers who have gastritis. When we are short of staff I cook but I don’t think my curries taste as good as the ones my staff make!

A spiritual place

wdOHd;añl ia:dkhla . xU Md;k Pf ,lk

The Fort is a peaceful place with a special essence – I always feel safe even when I’m on my own. I begin each day at 5am by sweeping the restaurant, spraying turmeric water to cleanse it, burning charcoal to clear spirits, and then placing flowers and lighting a lamp in front of the shrine to Lord Buddha. Most days I also visit the temple – it’s a spiritual place which brings me mental peace. Sometimes I make an offering to the Bodhi tree, which has special powers, or I take food to the monks.

AIYOMI DILRUKSHI RAMANAYAKE

I am deeply interested in the Fort because it has so much significance as a living colonial heritage site. We are trying to restore the original streetscape and preserve the buildings. We have to protect it for the next generation.

PROJECT OFFICER AT GALLE HERITAGE FOUNDATION AND ARCHAEOLOGIST

12 Rampart Street

wxl 12, fldgq neïu úÈh . 12 uk;ghHl; t Pjp

A unique location wiu iu ia:dkhla . jdpj ;Jtkhd XH miktplk

Galle harbour has been a very strategic and valuable location for centuries. This is what makes it so special. We are in the mouth of the world. It was part of the land silk route, the sea silk route, the slave and spice routes. Even today so many ships pass by. I particularly enjoyed working on the restoration of the Dutch spice warehouses. Originally the Portuguese had storage buildings on the same site where they kept wild cinnamon, areca nut and pepper. In the Dutch period, spices as well as elephants were stored there before they were shipped to Batavia in Indonesia.

A recent discovery uE; ld,Sk fidhd.ekSula . rkPgj ;jpa fz ;lwpjy;

An exciting new find is a tunnel, between Sun and Moon Bastion, which was the Portuguese entrance to the Fort. Originally there would have been a wooden sliding gate and an observation post. Those would have been nice characteristics.

Lookout point

ne,qï ., . fz;Nzwpl;Lg ghHg ;gjw;fhd ,lk

My favourite spot in the Fort is Flag Rock bastion because of its strategic location. The base was constructed by the Portuguese and then built on by the Dutch. It was a lookout point, a flag holder for the Dutch and where the British built the first lighthouse. This peninsula was also important to Sri Lankan rulers. In the 12th century, a Sri Lankan queen called Sugala had a military base here and in the 16th century, King Rajasinha I had warehouses in the area. The Fort has a rich history!

THARANGA LIYANA ARACHCHI

[ noun ] ~ a feeling of enjoyment, happiness, or satisfaction pleasure

PLEASURE IN FORT

For many, the walled citadel is a playground. Each afternoon the ramparts and even some streets transform into cricket pitches. Residents and visitors swim off the beaches, families fly kites, children play outside their houses and the same ice cream seller arrives daily by bicycle as he has done for almost three decades.

I love living in the Fort; My brother and I have a lot of friends on Pedlar Street. After school we play cricket, hide and seek and football in front of our houses. Some friends are Muslim and some are Buddhist.

FORT RESIDENT AND STUDENT AT ALL SAINTS PRIMARY SCHOOL

Punto, 42 Pedlar Street

mska;=, wxl 42, fmâ,¾ ùÈh . Gd;Nlh> 42 ngl;yH t Pjp

Fort playground

fldgqj l%Svdx.kh . Nfhl ;il tpisahl;L ikjhdk

It’s fun to live near the sea. At the weekends I swim off Sea Bath beach, close to the Lighthouse, with my father or grandmother. My brother and I have a lot of friends on Pedlar Street. After school we play cricket, hide and seek and football in front of our houses. Some friends are Muslim and some are Buddhist – I’m happy to help everyone, no matter what their religion. In future, I hope to become a doctor. I already know how to treat colds and a few other common illnesses. At my school, which is only 10m over the road, the subjects I enjoy most are Science and Maths.

Personal favourites

mqoa.,sl m%sh;djhk . jdpg;gl;l tpUg ;Gf;fs

My favourite building in the Fort is the Dutch Hospital because of the grand architecture. My grandfather’s homemade red rice and fish curry is the meal I most look forward to, as well as the strawberry ice cream at Pedlar’s Inn Gelato. Another thing I like about the Fort is meeting people from different places. It has changed a lot since I was small – I remember when the roads were sandy and there was a large bougainvillea and jam fruit tree outside the police station. People used to come around selling halipa (a type of sweet) which they carried in baskets.

Street gardening

ùÈfha j.d lghq;= . tPjpj Njhl;lk

Since I was about 7, I have been growing plants which I keep at the side of the street. My favourites are the orchids but I also have a lemon tree, as well as spinach, tomato, mint, and mung bean plants. When I’m not gardening or playing with my brother and our friends, I enjoy reading old Sinhala comic stories.

”I have been fishing off the ramparts since I was 17 – I still love it just as much today. I have lots of friends in the Fort. I have no plans to retire and plan to fish here until my last days.

A.S.M. MUBARAK

OCTOPUS FISHERMAN OFF THE RAMPARTS

In the water between the Lighthouse and Flag Rock

fldä., iy m%Èmd.drh w;r uqyqfoaoS oelsh yel fyq;fiu tpsf;fk; kw ;Wk; nfhb ghiw Mfpatw ;Wf ;F ,ilapyhd MW

Rampart fishing

fldgq mjqf¾ ëjr l¾udka;h . muzhd nfhj ;jsq;fspy; kPd ;gpbj ;jy;

For the past 43 years I have bicycled into the Fort several times a week to fish for octopus off the ramparts. The best times are at 8am and 2pm because the water is clear and you can see easily, particularly from December-March when the sea is calm.

It’s all in the technique

Ys,am l%ufha jeo.;alu . ,it midj ;Jk; El ;gj;jpNyNa jq ;fpAs;sJ

To catch the octopus I use a net, a spear or sometimes just my hands. Timing is key. It’s so instinctive for me; something inside. Sometimes all I do is prick the octopus and then put my arm out – it reacts by wrapping itself around. If the octopus is angry, it may put a lot of pressure on my arm, but usually this is not the case. I wade through the sea rather than catch them when I’m underwater because there is the possibility that a large one could grab me. This hasn’t happened but I am still careful. I definitely think octopuses understand humans. Sometimes they seem so confident.

Big

catch

úYd, ud¿ wiajekakl . nghpjhd kPd ;gpb

Totally hooked

iodld,sl weñKqula . Kw;wpYk; gpbf;fg ;gl;l epiy

The largest octopus I caught was about 5 kilos. One this size can be sold for up to Rs.4500 to restaurants in the Fort or in the Galle Fish Market. If I can’t sell my catch, I give them to friends. Sometimes we cook a dish at home. My favourite way to prepare them is devilled with chilli and tomato. I have lots of friends in the Fort. I have no plans to retire and plan to fish here until my last days.

”Growing up, we were never at home, we were always on the ramparts. We used to play cricket with our cousins. The balls would often land in Southlands College so we would jump over the wall and get them back.

THREE SIBLINGS OF LONG TIME FORT FAMILY 28 Middle Street

Uzman - a history lover’s perspective Wiaudka - w;S;hg wdorh lrkakl=f.a oDIaÀh c];khd ;- tuyhw ;iw Nerpg ;gthpd; fz ;Nzhl ;lk;

The entire Fort is home for us; we are free to go anywhere within the walls. We can walk into anyone’s house – they are all open. Where else in the world can you do that? Everyone who lives here is family. My mother’s side of the family, the Macan Markars, have lived in the Fort for eight generations and my grandma always told stories about the colonial era. History comes alive here. It has always been my passion and no doubt her stories, as well as growing up in such a historic place inspired this interest.

Aslam - the Fort as a playground wia,dï - fldgqj l%Svdx.khla f,i m] ;yhk - Nfhl;il xU tpisahl;L ikjhdkhf

Growing up, I was never at home, I was always on the ramparts. In those days we didn’t have phones but we located our friends based on where their bikes were. The rule was that I had to be home for sunset prayers at 6.30pm. If I was late, my mother would come close to the mosque to find me. My friends would warn me if they spotted her. Then I would hide and quickly make my way through the small cross streets. Arriving home before her, I would pretend I had been there the whole time!

Ahla - an interior designer’s view wya,d - wNHka;r w,xlrK Ys,amshl=f.a oelau m`;yh - cs;Jiw tbtikg ;ghshpd; fz ;Nzhl;lk

Three generations of our family have been to Southlands College, which is literally just over the road. It was useful being so close because if I forgot a textbook, I would just shout over the wall and my Mum would pass it over! The Fort is home for me - there is nowhere like it. In Colombo, houses have to be locked but here our door is open every day. When my cousins visit, we get ice cream from Dairy King, which is my Uncle’s shop on Church Street.

UZMAN, ASLAM & AHLA ANVER

”I’ve been playing cricket on the ramparts since I was 18. You never quite know how the ball is going to bounce. With the sea wind that blows over the rampart walls every delivery is unpredictable, but it’s all part of the fun!

CRICKET

PLAYER AND SHOP MANAGER AT DECORISTA

Cricket pitch below the Army Camp, Rampart Street

yuqod l`ojqrg my<ska msysá l%slÜ msáh, fldgqneïu úSÈh ,uhZt KfhKf;Ff; fPohf fhzg ;gLk; fphpf;fw; MLfsk;> uhk;gHl tPjp

Afternoon innings

ikaOHd bksu . gpw;gfy Ml;lk;

I’ve been playing cricket on the ramparts since I was 18. As soon as I finish work at the shop, I walk over to the pitch below the army camp and meet my friends. It’s a fluid team and people come and go. Tourists often join us, which is fun, particularly Brits and Australians who are keen on cricket. It’s supposed to be ‘friendly cricket’ but it often gets very competitive.

Challenging terrain

wNsfhda.d;aul ìu . MLfsg; gug ;G

As the pitch is not properly prepared, you never quite know how the ball is going to bounce. That along with the sea wind that blows over the rampart walls, makes it a tough place to play but it’s all part of the fun. Every delivery is unpredictable! I am an all-rounder but particularly enjoy hitting a cover drive shot when I’m batting. The ball often ends up on the roof of Sea Green Guesthouse! Luckily, we know the owners and they are always friendly.

Secrets to success

id¾:l;ajfha ryi . ntw;wpapd; ,ufrpaq;fs;

To play cricket, you have to be intelligent. It’s not a quick sport. You have to have self-belief. Confidence and experience are key. Kumar Sangakkara, a former Sri Lankan cricket captain, is my favourite player – he is a genuine batsman.

VIMUKTHI SAMPATH

I’ve been cycling into the Fort for 26 years, people know and remember me from when they were small. Ice creams bring children so much enjoyment. That makes me happy!

B. A.

EXPERT ICE CREAM SELLER

Usually stationed opposite the Rampart Hotel, Rampart Street

Fldgq neïu ùÈfha ?ïmdÜ fydag,h m%;súreoaO mi /`oS isáhs nghJthf uhk;gHl N`hl;lYf;F vjphpy; trpf;fpd;wtH> uhk;gHl tPjp

Generations of ice cream lovers mrïmrd.; whsial%Sï f,da,Sk . I];fphPk gphpaHfspd; re;jjpfs;

I’ve now been cycling into the Fort for 26 years. I like being on a bicycle because it makes travelling easy and I can reach places even if the roads are narrow. Originally, I worked for Walls and now for Cargills Magic. I like how I have seen my customers grow! For example, there are policemen in Galle who used to buy ice-creams from me when they were small, and still do today!

Award-winning ch.%yKh . tpUJ ngwy;

Over the years I’ve won gold medals from the company for the sales I’ve done. The monthly target is normally 2 lakhs but some months I manage 3. I think the fact that I smile a lot and people have known me for years helps!

Bestsellers jeäu úl=kqula . kpfr;rpwe ;j tpahghhp

Visitors from abroad tend to go for Cornettos and Fantastics, a type of choc ice. Among Sri Lankans the faluda lollies are very popular. My personal favourite is the orange lolly because cycling makes me thirsty and it’s refreshing. At one point I would eat two a day but I rarely do anymore because I’ve had too many! Even my three children are tired of ice cream now.

Come rain or shine wõjg jeiaig . kioahapDk ntapyhapDk

I like the Fort because it’s clean and where I stand is well-shaded. I’m normally here from 8am-7.30pm. The Fort residents have my mobile number, so they call me when they want a special delivery to their house. Sometimes I provide ice-creams for special events at the mosque and occasionally the young monks from the temple come and have a treat before midday. I have a good connection to the community. People know and remember me from when they were small. I plan to keep going as long as I can!

DHARMASENA

[ noun ] ~ work that requires a particular skill, special training or specific knowledge

PROFESSION IN FORT

A large part of the Fort’s vibrancy derives from the fact it is a place of life and work. Each day professionals from all fields can be found engaged in their trade whether they are fishermen, divers, teachers, lawyers, clerks, shopkeepers or librarians.

Galle Fort is special because it’s one of the very few living fortresses in the world. It has a history of over 400 years and is an epitome of all communities living in harmony. It’s an honour and a privilege to be a resident and part of this wonderful place.

KAMANI

LIBRARIAN, RADIOGRAPHER AND FORT RESIDENT

Galle Fort Library, Church Street

mqia;ld, md,sldjla” úlsrK Ys,amsKshla iy fldgqfjys mÈxÑldßKshl

A community service m%cd fiajhla . xU r%f Nrit

I have been the librarian since June 2018. It has been a change of career as I am a professionally qualified medical radiographer and worked in Zambia, Sri Lanka and California for almost 19 years. I consider my role to be a service rather than a job. Since I returned to Sri Lanka I have wanted to serve this place. I’ve always loved reading, particularly history, adventure, science-fiction and books by Wilbur Smith and Arthur Hailey. My favourite book in the library is The Island of Ceylon by Robert Percival because it gives a good sense of what the country was like in the British colonial period.

A historic space ft;sydisl ia:dkhla . tuyhw ;Wr; rpwg ;Gkpf ;f XH ,lk

The library is special because it’s the oldest in the recorded history of Sri Lanka. I adore its old looks and the traditions preserved since it was established in 1832. I enjoy the simple and serene environment, and also the friendliness of the community. There are officially 130 members but only a few are active. The library is valued by the community because it’s a historical monument. We have members representing all communities including expats who reside in Sri Lanka and therefore I believe that it provides a focal point.

Fresh innovations

kejqï kjH;d . rpwe;j Gj ;jhf;fq;fs

Since I began, we have initiated a junior club and enrolled young members. It’s wonderful to see them reading here. There is now air-conditioning and we are on the way to computerising and re-categorising all the books. There is also a new Sinhala literary section.

ABEYWICKRAMA

fhyp Nfhl;il E}yfk;> Njthya t Pjp

We used to play hide and seek and a game called seven stones in the office spaces around the Law Court Square. Boys and girls played together regardless of religion.

PUSHPA

OWNER AND MANAGER OF WANIGASEKARA STORES AND COMMUNICATION CENTRE

13B Leyn Baan Street

wxl 13 î, f,aka ndka ùÈh . 13B nyapd; ghz; t Pjp

Birthplace

Wmkaìu . gpwe;j ,lk

My parents came to the Fort in 1948 and I was born here. For a while we lived in what is now the Historical Mansion Museum. Then my parents bought this building and began the shop. It has been going for about 60 years. For most of my career I was a Commerce teacher at Southlands College, but in 2016 I retired and decided to run the store. I like the freedom of having my own business.

A hub in Law Court Square

Widú p;=ri%fha uOHia:dkh . rl;l e Pjpkd;w rJf;fk; xU ikak;

My busiest time is from 8.30-9.30am and 12-1.30pm before the morning and afternoon court sessions. I type-set and photocopy a lot of confidential legal documents and deeds which are used in the cases. Even though some lawyers are short on office space, the courts are an important part of the Fort’s history.

One love

tlu wdorhla . xNu md;G

I love the Fort because it has a friendly atmosphere. During the 1980s when there was political violence in Galle, we felt safe here. No one was harmed inside the Fort. I always tell customers that you should not judge people based on their religion. The Fort community is very united. We share our foods and sweets during all the festivities.

WANIGASEKARA

The Fort has a different feeling with the old buildings and history. The Court Square is a beautiful setting to work in and I believe the courts should remain in the Fort.

DONA SAJATHA

ONE OF THE LONGEST

SERVING CLERKS

IN THE LAW COURT SQUARE

21/7 Leyn Baan Street

21$7> f,aka ndka ùÈh . 21.7> nyapd; ghz; t Pjp

A long innings

È.= bksula . xU ePz ;l fhy Nrit

I have a feeling that I’m one of the longest serving clerks in the Law Court Square. I have been working for a property lawyer for the past thirty years. My job involves typing up documents in English on a type-writer and searching for deeds at the Land Registry Office in Galle. The new records are easy to find as there is a computerised system but the older ones can be a challenge to track down. The busiest time of day is between 8-9am as I often have to prepare last-minute documents before the courts begin. I still love my job and have no plans to retire.

Lunch breaks

Èjd wdydr úfõlh . kjpaNghrd ,ilNtis

Half way through the day, I enjoy taking a walk through the streets or on the ramparts to admire the views. I also drop in at the communication centre and chat a little with my friend Pushpa Akka.

A unique working place

wiuiu fiajd ia:dkhla . xU jdpj ;Jtkhd gzpaplk

I like how the Fort is now: it has a different feeling, everything is of a higher quality with cafes, shops and good roads. The Court Square is a beautiful setting to work in and I believe the courts should remain in the Fort.

SAMARAWICKREMA

Before the Fort was very quiet and calm; it has changed a lot but it’s still a good place, with few problems. I hope that my children and grandchildren remain in the Fort.

The fort in the 1960s

oYlfha .d,q fldgqj . 1960 fspy; Nfhl;il

Night fishing

RETIRED LOBSTER DIVER AND OWNER OF ABACATE CAFÉ

No. 6, New Lane 1

When I was growing up in the Fort, the common mode of transport was by hand-pulled rikshaw and many children travelled to and from school on bullock carts. At this time, households kept hens and cows, which is quite rare today. Two large herds of cows resided on Lighthouse Street and would block whole lanes as they moved through. The advantage was there was always fresh milk available. It was a more liberal time – women would chat on the streets and I would walk to school in Galle with 50 cents in my pocket. With that I could buy 5 pancakes.

rd;%s ld,fha uiqka ueÍu . ,uT kPd ;gpb

From the age of fourteen, I used to dive for lobsters off the ramparts. The best spot was Crow Island which you can see from Flag Rock. Here the water is about 15-20 foot deep. I would go at night with 3 friends – one of us would hold a bag, and the other two would dive. We would shine our torches and spot the lobsters’ red eyes. In the early 1970s, each one would sell for 2 rupees, 25 cents. There were a few hazards involved though – sea urchins, poisonous eels and blue jellyfish in the monsoon season.

Under the avocado tree w,sfmar .i hg . ntz;nza gokuj ;jpd; f Po;

Today I run a café named ‘Abacate’ after the Portuguese word for avocado. I enjoy meeting people and hope that my children and grandchildren remain in the Fort.

SIRIPALA BASNAYAKE

The Fort is a very peaceful place. In the 64 years I’ve lived here, there hasn’t been trouble between people; we may believe in different religions but we are all very close.

LONG-TIME FORT RESIDENTS AND KEEPERS OF THE CORNER STORE

Shafeek Kade, 100 Pedlar Street

I*Sla lfâ, wxl 100, fmâ,¾ ùÈh . ~/g Pf; fil> 100 ngl;yH t Pjp

One stop shop

ish¿ foa we;s fj<`oi, . xU filapy; epWj ;jk

We are open from 6am-8.30pm 363 days of the year; we only close for the last day of Ramadan and Haj. Our day begins at 5am when we light incense to cleanse the shop. Soon after this fresh bread is delivered. In the morning our main trade is in newspapers and the sweet-smelling white loaves. These days we sell a lot of snacks and cool drinks to tourists including cashew nuts, chocolate and Coca Cola. Up until ten years ago we had supplies delivered by a lovely man called Vathiar who transported sacks of rice and lentils on his bullock cart.

Community hub

m%cd uOHia:dkhla . r%f ikak;

Having lived here all my life and meeting people at the shop, I know everybody in the Fort. This means that my job as senior polling agent during elections is easy because I can quickly verify everyone’s names and addresses at the polling booth.

A unique place

wiu iu ia:dkhl . jdpj ;Jtkhd XH ,lk

We enjoy chatting to regulars and meeting visitors – it’s one of our favourite parts of the job and makes us happy. The business has expanded a lot since my father first started a fruit shop on this spot in the 1940s. We couldn’t live outside the Fort. I was born here. All the people are with us. We couldn’t find another place like this in Sri Lanka.

MR & MRS SHAFEEK CAREEM

[ noun ] ~ careful consideration or thought about a subject matter, idea, or purpose

REFLECTION IN FORT

Home to a multi-faith community, the Fort is a spiritual place which inspires reflection. Religious leaders from the mosque, the Buddhist temple and the churches regularly meet to support each other. Those connected to the walled citadel have wonderful stories to share — of history, culture and philosophy.

The Fort is a living monument which gives it richness and depth. It’s a place of historic significance but also very much linked to people’s lives. This heritage gives people identity. I strongly believe that if people are removed from the Fort, it will lose its soul.

PASTOR OF THE CHRISTIAN REFORMED CHURCH

Dutch Reformed Church, Church Street

´,kao frmrudÿ foajia:dkh, m,a,sh ùÈh . xy ;yhe;jH rPHjpUj ;j rig> Njthya t Pjp

A multi-faith community

nyq wd.ñl m%cdjla . xU gy; ek ;gpf;if r%fk;

The Fort is unique. We are strongly tied across faiths. All the places of worship have importance in the community. The neighbourhood is made up of Muslim, Hindu, Buddhist and Christian residents. Everyone rallies together to support each other in times of difficulty. Non-Christian residents have told me that the church is part of their lives and history. People have taken it in turns to protect the building at different times. When it was suggested that the churches move their congregations outside of the Fort, the residents opposed this and strongly felt they should remain.

An inspiring space

m%fndaOckl wjldYhla . vOr;rpA+l;Lk; XH ,lk

The Fort is where the Christian Reformed Church (formerly known as the Dutch Reformed Church) began in Sri Lanka on the 6th October 1642. In those days the congregation worshipped in four different places including the spice warehouses and gunpowder storeroom near the lighthouse. This Church was built in 1755, primarily for the Dutch administrators. This is our bedrock. Any pastor would want to serve here within his lifetime. When I preach here on a Sunday, it has a special feeling even though we have a small congregation of 85-90. It has been a wonderful privilege to work here.

Meaningful connections

wre;anr in`o;d . mHj ;jKs;s njhlHGfs;

When Dutch visitors come they have a lot of connections to the tombstones and plaques on the walls. Some people sit here and cry - they get a real sense of home and also of the lives of their ancestors. It may have been where their great-great-grandmother was baptised or their great-great-grandfather got married. I have a lot of letters from people expressing how much their visits meant.

REVEREND LAKMAL WIJERATNE

”The Fort is a different world. I have lived in Colombo and Kandy but this is the place. Life here is about people; it’s not about buildings. This is not a static city. It has always been a centre of trade. We must see it as a whole.

CO-OWNER

OF THE HISTORICAL

MANSION MUSEUM, ANTIQUE COLLECTOR AND MOTORBIKE TOURER

31-39 Leyn Baan Street

wxl 31-39, f,aka ndka ùÈh . 31-39 nyapd; ghz; t Pjp

A heritage building fm!rdKsl f.dvke.s,a,la . xU tuyhw ;Wf fl;llk

Old treasures merKs ksOdkhka . gioa nghf;fp~q;fs;

We think this building was originally a complex of storerooms or a warehouse for Dutch traders. It’s conveniently located close to the old harbour and at that time people bought ropes on this street. Following that it was owned by the well-known Macan Markar family and then my father bought it in 1978. He was always a passionate antique collector – on family trips our van would come to an abrupt stop as soon as he spotted some old treasure on the side of the road. The antique collection is open to the public and we welcome people to come in with a free mind. My favourite pieces include a jakwood and ebony gaalu almaary (Galle almirah) which is made in a local style with floral fretwork. I also like the boolees which are clay flasks that seafarers carried with them to store water and liquor. The Dutch ones have an image of a bearded man and a unique symbol which signifies the area they came from in Holland.

Memories u;lhka . epidTfs;

During our school days, my father paid 25 cents for us to go on the bullock cart but we always walked behind because the girls pushed us out! After school we would throw our bags into the house, take our shoes off and be on the beach in minutes. Until the late 80s there was a man-pulled rikshaw at the junction by Barefoot. It was used solely by Ibrahim Uncle, previous owner of the Fort Printers. He used to travel in it with a long cigar – it was like a Benz for him.

NASSER HUSSAIN

My family has now lived in the Fort for seven generations. It’s a spiritual place where we have friends, relations, the mosque, and prayers are called out across the rooftops.

STORYTELLER

AND OWNER OF THE ROYAL DUTCH CAFÉ

72 Leyn Baan Street

wxl 72, f,aka ndka ùÈh . 72 nyapd; ghz; t Pjp

Spice routes l=¿nvq udj; . thridj jputpaq;fspd; mwpKfk

My family has now lived in the Fort for seven generations. When I pass the small harbour outside the Fort walls I think of my ancestors who originally came to Sri Lanka as traders from Morocco in the 16th century during the Portuguese period. They brought items such as swords and shields and swapped them for spices. It’s said that the biblical King Solomon also moored his ship in Galle in search of pearls and gems.

Street games ùÈ l%Svd . t PjpNahu tpisahl;Lf;fs;

Growing up in the 1950s, we used to swim off the ramparts and play games on the streets - with marbles, date seeds and cigarette cards such as Three Roses. There were chickens and goats everywhere. During Ramadan we would finish our evening prayers and then wade into the ocean with a lantern and fish for mullet. We would also jump into our friends’ houses, take food and go and sit on the ramparts. It was a beautiful time – there was unity. Two or three families would live in one house.

Inflation WoaOukh . gztPf ;fk;

It was also cheaper then. If you had 100 rupees you were a rich man! A quarter loaf of bread and a short-eat cost only 5 cents. The Fort has become commercialised – it’s a sad story – but I still feel comfortable walking around in my sarong.

Favourite spots leu;sui ia:dk . tpUg ;gj ;jpw ;Fhpa ,lq ;fs;

There are a few places which remind me of the Fort in the old days. 1st Cross Street is still very residential – so for a sense of Fort life, this is one of my favourite lanes. Then the small shop in front of the army camp is a good place to have a rest and enjoy a cup of tea or a hopper. When walking down Leyn Baan Street, my eye is always drawn to the small general shop at the junction. It reminds me of my carefree bachelor days when I used to buy cigarettes and toffees there.

FAZAL JIFFRY BADURDEEN

”In the Fort, we are very close. When Ban Ki-moon came here in 2016 he met with all the religious leaders and was impressed by our peaceful, multi-faith community. He said this is a nice place to live.

ELDER AND TRUSTEE OF THE MOSQUE

37 Rampart Street RAUF

wxl 37, fldgq neïu ùÈh . 37 uk;ghHl; t Pjp Runs in the family

mjqf,a fm<m . FLk ;g epytuk

As one of the two trustees selected by the community, I take care of the interests of the mosque. It’s a job that my father also did for 30 years. I was born in 78 Lighthouse Street, my mother’s house, so the Fort has always been home. Growing up my friends and I used to go fishing behind the Lighthouse and Dutch Hospital. We knew the best spots to find different types of fish including mullet. Off the jetty in the old harbour, we would catch small fish using pins with earthworms attached. We would cook them at home and then eat them with string hoppers on the ramparts.

Harmony and cohesion

iu.sh iy taldnoaO;djh . ey;ypzf ;fk; kw ;Wk; xw ;Wik

The Fort community Is very united. I regularly speak to the head monk, as well as the reverend fathers. When we need to discuss important matters, we all meet at the temple. There have been times when Christians and Buddhists have guarded the mosque during prayer time and vice versa. During Ramadan, we invite residents of all faiths to come and break fast with us at the Muslim Cultural Association.

A sweet tooth

ñysß u;l . gpbj ;j ,dpg ;GzT

In the 1960s, when I was doing my O-Levels, I used to go to Sinhala classes four times a week at the temple. The head monk at that time wouldn’t accept any money but we knew he liked watalappan, a type of caramel pudding, and so my mother would specially make it for him. When we wanted to leave the class early, we would move the clock forward!

Ban Ki-moon

nEka lS-uQk . ghd fP-%d;

In the Fort, we are very close. When Ban Ki-moon – the then Secretary general of the United Nations - came here in 2016 he met with all the religious leaders and was impressed by our peaceful, multi-faith community. He said this is a nice place to live. Before taking a helicopter to Temple Trees for tea, he even took a 15-minute walk with us on the ramparts.

There is a culture of sharing in the Fort. We share at festival times –residents of all religions donate food for celebrations. The Fort has always been a multi-faith community. It’s unique in that way. There is no difference between people – you can feel it.

PANANGALA HEMA

HEAD PRIEST AT THE SRI SUDHARMALAYA BUDDHIST TEMPLE

Sri Sudharmalaya Buddhist Temple

YS% iqO¾ud,h fn!oaO úydria:dkh . = RjHkhyha ngsj ;j tpfhiu

Temple restoration

úydr m%;sixialrKh . tpfhiu kWrPuikg ;G

I first came to the temple in 1979 when I was 12. I was born in the Galle District about 27 miles from here. At the age of 19, I became responsible for the temple. For a few years I was on my own, but I didn’t feel lonely. I had so much work to do extending the shrine room and restoring the building which dates from 1886.

Daily life

ffoksl Ôú;h . md;whl tho;f ;if

A typical day for me begins at 4.30am. I walk on the ramparts in front of the temple. I like the calmness. I have a clear memory of everyone gathering at Moon Bastion when the tsunami hit in 2004. It was a safe point. Following my walk, I clean the temple, bathe, worship, have breakfast and then begin community service. Residents come and ask for advice with a variety of personal and business problems. We also have community meetings and give financial help to people in need.

Being human

ñksil= ùu . kdpjdhf tho;jy

Human life is very temporal. Religion is like a boat that helps you along the river of life. Every religion has a different story for the end of life. Apart from that we are all the same. We have the same feelings, the same needs. It’s important for us to live together and be kind to each other within this limited life.

LOKA THERO

ABOUT THE CONTRIBUTORS

DAISY PERRY

COPYWRITER

Daisy is a writer who finds inspiration in everyday Sri Lankan life. She loves listening to and recording people’s stories. In the Fort, she is most likely to be found having tea with friends or having a swim off Lady’s Sea Bath Beach.

ATHEEQ IFTHIKAR

PHOTOGRAPHER

Atheeq is a photographer with a passion for Galle Fort. In fact, it is here that he learnt how to use a camera. He loves capturing people’s unique characteristics. Atheeq is most likely to be found on the ramparts giving a walking tour or at his friend’s art gallery on Leyn Baan Street.

PRAVEEN MOHOTTIGE

PHOTOGRAPHER ASSISTANT AND RESEARCHER

Praveen is a lawyer turned Galle Fort expert. His input was invaluable in terms of photography coordination and research. His positive attitude led the team to some great stories. Praveen can often be found at sunset, guitar in hand, in his favourite spot on top of the old gunpowder store opposite The Rampart Hotel.

THARANGA ARACHCHI

COPYWRITER

Tharanga is the Project Officer at Galle Heritage Foundation, which means his days are dedicated to conserving the ramparts, houses and warehouses within the Fort. If he’s not in his office on Rampart Street, he’s likely to be found in a Fort garden or a bastion examining the latest archeologiacl finds.

GAYAN SUMANASIRI

MAP DESIGNER

A landscape architect who seeks different perspectives in order to reveal the lighter sides of life.

HIRANTHA SENARATHNA

MAP DESIGNER

Hirantha is a Landscape Architect, who tries to expose the intangible sense of a place to the world.

SHEHAN DISSANAYAKE

MAP DESIGNER

Shenan is a Landscape Architect. He seeks inner happiness by colouring dreams with his hands.

WAJIRINDA DE SILVA

MAP DESIGNER

“A simple thought leads to be a better path.”

ABOUT THE CONTRIBUTORS

P.APEKSHA P. RODRIGO

SURVEY TEAM

Apeksha is a Graduate in Archaeology at the University of Ruhuna. Her favourite place in the Fort is the lighthouse. It’s a unique place from which you get a glorious view of the coast.

BHASHINI T. PALIHAWADANA

SURVEY TEAM

Bhashini is a Graduate in Archaeology from the University of Ruhuna. The ramparts are her favourite place in the Fort. She likes to walk there in the evening when the beauty of sea is at its best.

THARUPA RAJAPAKSHA

SURVEY TEAM

Tharupa is a graduate of the University of Ruhuna who specializes in archaeology. Her favourite place in Galle Fort is the lighthouse with its glorious views of the seaside. A place with so much history and a popular spot for wedding photo shoots.

K.A.ISHARA CHATHURANGI

SURVEY TEAM

Ishara is a graduate of the University of Ruhuna who completed a degere in Archaeology. Black fort is her favourite place in the citadel because of its layers of history.

PRIYANJI B.M. KULASINGHE

SURVEY TEAM

Bhagya is an archaeology graduate from the University of Ruhuna. In the Fort, she loves Pedlar Street and enjoys finding hidden spots off the busy thoroughfare.

IRESH C. LIYANARACHCHI

SURVEY TEAM

A graduate of the University of Ruhuna, Chathuranga is an archaeologist, a photographer and diver. He loves Pedlar street because it’s a beautiful setting for photo shoots.

AMRITA ADVANI

PROJECT COORDINATOR

Amrita is an island girl with a love for travel. She loves exploring the Fort to find hidden gems of places and can’t wait for you to discover them too!

JANIS LAW

BOOKLET DESIGNER

Janis majors in architecture and is a travel enthusiast. She loves visiting ancient sites and exploring places with incredibly good vibes. She enjoys seeing how historical sites re-originate to current contexts and how they project to the city and the people.

HEAR THEIR STORIES LEARN WHAT THEY LOVE

Download the iDiscover Asia App or read their full stories online www.i-discoverasia.com

The Galle Heritage Foundation aims to conserve Galle Fort as a historic cultural city centre and a site of archaeological importance and develop it to be a cultural tourist location of excellence.

www.galleheritage.gov.lk

Sri Lanka and the Netherlands have a long, shared history. With this project the Royal Netherlands Embassy in Colombo wants to show that cultural heritage is more than just a reminder of our past, it continues to live in our buildings, names, streets, people and even food. It is what makes the city of Galle unique today and in future generations.

www.netherlandsandyou.nl

These hotels are at the frontline of revitalizing Fort’s heritage buildings with great respect to the soul of Galle.

iDiscover is about the spirit of place. We maek maps and create apps for locals to share their favourite places and stories with you.

i-discoverasia.com

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