Esthetique vol12 by Yuko Nakao

O c t .1. 2 015

issue.12

Active Couture

VPL IRADJ MOINI Photography Brian Offidani Hair Emi Agio Makeup U-ki Style Yuko Nakao Model Brianna (Wilhelmina Models)

STATEMENTS of design

Text Skyler Rohwedder

Iradji Mioni's bold brand history of almost daring statements with an air of

For our first designer feature, one could not think of a better diplomatic

mystique complements the rich history and brand heritage of VPL with their

representative to discuss design with other than IRADJI MIONI.

entry into "athleleisure".

Unapologetically bold and daring in style with a charming, humble demeanor

In these vibrant images, Esthetique showcases true statements of self-

and divergent approach to design, he complements ESTHETIQUE's mantra

expression in collaboration with iconic brands synonymous with these

of portraying this industry with the unexpected or behind the scenes fashion

attributes.

scope.

VPL explores the aspect of the fashion side of technical athletic wear in unexpected fabrications, designs, and often dramatic details with the

Changing the perception of costume jewelry as now a twist on Haute Couture

unexpected that the brand is known for and doesn't disappoint.

status collectables, Iranian born and raised jewelry designer, IRADJ MIONI,

True to both brand's heritage of pushing boundaries and breaking

invites one into his showroom-combined workspace in a warm and truly

preconceived rules, Esthetique features VPL and Iradji Mioni designs in an

accessible manner. Mesmerized by the gemstones, metals, Swarovski crystals,

almost ironic view on personal style and attitude among the often cultural

stacks of lush velvet trays of finished ornate pieces mixed with, let’s just say,

homogeneous phenomenon of athleleisure. The almost stoic or “urban

historical statement baubles is immediately enticing. Now combine this with

homogenous expression on the model is contrasted beautifully by the daring

an almost uncontrollable urge to try on the serpent bangle cuff – yes, truly

statement outfits.

mesmerizing for a glance behind the scenes. However, one is now definitely thinking of who has passed through this

The added luxury of Annebelle New York outerwear layered on the looks adds

charming gated entrance and already tried on this serpent bangle? Am I next?

to the element of contradicting perceptions on luxury and athletic wear in

Isn’t there a VIP room?

todays largest trend.

The answer is No. He doesn’t need one.

Modern technical yet fashionably forward athletic apparel shown with layers

of historic luxe jewelry and iconic vintage feeling furs poses the question;

He then begins to answer ever so causally with a grin of humor as we discuss

is the next athleisure phase trending towards more personal statements and

his background, work, and so forth. I don’t know him nor does he know me,

the desire of creative Haute Couture creations shining through the utilitarian

yet.

urban street styles?

One thing is absolutely clear, do not let his go-with-the-flow manner fool you,

he was never confused on what he wanted to achieve in fashion. (Although

than her diamond collection. Now owning over 1000 pieces, some featured in

he will argue that point with you while smiling.) Blurring the boundaries of

a display at the Museum of Arts and Design in conjunction with her tome-like

luxury status collections with a wholesale retail business didn’t happen over

publication “Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger.”

night. Migrating from Iran in the 1980’s, his formal training is in architecture as government regulations mandated one must pursue a more reputable trade,

Status jewelry is now re-defined in the industry– done, now that’s settled.

commonly in the sciences. Motivated by the fashion and cultural movements

What’s next?

of the time; he still found a muse in architecture through creation itself and the

He explains this as if it isn’t rather extraordinary.

likes of Antoni Gaudi; best known for forming a unique perspective in works

“He designs what he loves and it resonates with his clientele who approach

with an individualized and and distinct modern style directly influenced by

him. They come to me.That’s it.”

his admitted passions in life. Bauhaus in Germany was also an early influence

(So is it the “build it and they will come” theory? I do think he downplays just

know for crafting and creating “total” masterpieces in design, integrating all

how much work goes into his business!)

areas of the arts to result in a more moderinist approach to architecture and design. The structural, sculpted, mixed material, and balancing of different

Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, and Elle adorn Beyoncé, Oprah, and celebrities often

proportions or layers noted in his designs are direct influences of his formal

with his seasonal creations.

architectural training.

Oh, and there is this fact. He designed one of the most famous brooches right

Except one minute detail on his studies “he hated it”!

out of Madeline Albrights personal arsenal of jeweled pins used for foreign affair engagements. This man does not name drop! He simply smiles when

Following fashion influences and beginning to design jewelry on the side was

pressed further on these collaborations and muses and laughs; “Oh that, I

how he spent the majority of his time.

really don’t know them” as he clasps his hands together and tilts his head back

His design muse? It is a rather large passion for all designs Yves Saint Laurent

a bit holding in his laughter.

and his cult status following at the time. Pushing the boundaries with a more an avant-garde approach to design while still remaining focused on detail and

If one asked Iris Apfel, I suspect we would hear a different story. His work was

service, his “craft” began.

showcased from her collection in 2006 at the MET and, of course, he has 3 permanent pieces on display in the TROP exhibit in the Louvre.

Designing formally in NYC since 1989, notable for his show collaborations

(Is there a confidentiality waiver I have to sign next?)

with Oscar De La Renta, his handmade, now literal “statement” pieces are coveted by tastemakers, world-renowned collectors, and celebrities alike.

It is a true testament to his customized approach to design and detail, belief

Barbara Berger, as he chuckles, once claimed his pieces received more attention

in offering only superior customer service and reputation of a perfectionist

attitude toward his designs. While he is diplomatic in service, he does not

Service oriented is an understatement.

compromise his designs. Designing a seasonal collection, as a large brand, still hand sketching, he doesn’t edit based on corporate hierarchy, buyers or clients.

How would you describe your rise to success?

That’s rare. It’s just his vision and designs.

“Simple, I design what I love and others have contacted me, starting with Oscar de la Renta. I will continue to design and do what I love. I always knew I would

Pardon?

be successful if I did this.” He than discusses his love of all things fashion since

There must be another workspace with assistant designers, graphic designers,

his childhood.

and a sales team.

Yes, this is definitely rare in the age of personal digital branding and social

No.

strategy. His strategy is detailed, focused on customer service showcasing designs he does for fun. (Yes.)

One may be surprised at the behind the scenes glimpse into his work area. It is as eclectic as his clientele. Reminiscent of his work ethic, it reflects this almost

Why fashion, why jewelry?

tangible post-industrial craftsmanship style practiced through trade combined

Simple again, he knew he needed to create. Jewelry “is the only medium for

with a full-scale wholesale business, shipping to the finest jewelry departments

true expressive Haute Couture in NYC and I always knew I would pursue

in NY or featured in trunk shows and tradeshows where he has quite the

fashion as a career”. He found a niche market and clever way to build his brand.

following.

He discusses accessories can instantly elevate a look or create style yet can be

It’s also just him or on rare occasions his nephew.

collected and kept for decades while remaining relevant

(I noticed your website can use some sprucing up to showcase these dazzling

Overlapping semi-precious stones mirrors his technique of overlapping the

designs and their rich history. I’ll send an email later.)

genre of fine jewelry and costume jewelry. It is this rare combination of expressive design, craftsmanship and modernity

What are you working on today?

is what we explore throughout our visit and what has established his reputation

“Monday was well…” as we discuss everyone’s love of that inevitable

as a pivotal designer in costume jewelry.

unproductive Monday. Today, he was reviewing last season’s shipment to

Bergdorf’s and personally merchandising an appropriate fall assortment for

As we look around at his designs, he almost defiantly states,

the next shipment. “Jewel-tones for fall is a must, yes, jewel-tones “ after the

“I knew when I was 5!”

summer he stresses no turquoise or lighter shades.

Humble, yes, confidant more so! Now we are getting somewhere!

This aspect is clearly not his favorite, yet he meticulously hand selects

Confused in his early career choices as he seems to want to answer to the press,

assortments for his wholesale accounts as well.

I think no.

How did you pursue fashion and what was your greatest design or aesthetic

I didn’t ask this; but do non-brand affiliation clientele You Tube channels

influence?

devoted only to discussing collecting and wearing your pieces define success?

“My formal training is as an Architect, indeed, an influence in designing

As I’m still looking for the VIP or sales showroom I am definitely drafting my

today”. He studied this profession solely due to government regulations at the

“let’s give you a new website” email in my head.

time restricting areas of study. It was “a means to an end as one did not study fashion design as a profession.” Thus, inspired by the structural components of his studies and the likes of his selective inspirations; he entered into fashion. Thus, he relays that the technical skills and field of architecture were appealing from a design perspective. However, “I hated it, I was watching Yves Saint Laurent and fascinated with this avant-garde direction, but one must study something…” Why Yves Saint Laurent? “The designs were unexpected and consistently delivered a level of taste each season…women and the industry responded to it.” Obviously inspired by pushing boundaries, innovation, and originality “these designs captured your attention” yet they are still just as captivating today. This is what he has achieved thus far in his collections. This concept and his background in architexture do remain the key influences in his designs today. His unique creativity in mixing gemstones, unusual colors and materials in bold, daring, and often elaborate shapes are combined with an undeniably strong structural, yes architectural 3-D component, that creates a fusion of his signature natural organic fluidity and modern sculptural statement pieces. His designs are a rare combination of a vintage and feminine aesthetic within a framework inherently ornate, sculptural, and oversized.

For more information, please contact: info@esthétique.com

Homegents Photography HAYATO SA KUR A I / Hair KIYONR SUD Makeup REI / Style YUKO NA K AO Model BRUNO, CONNOR and STA NTON（One Model Management）

[left page] Stanton : Jacket Paisley & Gray / Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants Ernest Hemingway / Tie Stylist's own [on this page] [right]Connor : Sweater WHYRED / Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants WHYRED / Bow tie Ernest Hemingway [left]Stanton : Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants WHYRED / Tie Ernest Hemingway / Suspenders Stylist's own

Stanton : Shirt Curator NYC / Pants Ernest Hemingway

Bruno : Sweater Ernest Hemingway / Pants Curator NYC 22

Bruno : Suit Ernest Hemingway / Sweater Calvin Klein Jeans

Connor : Jacket Paisley & Gray / Shirt Ernest Hemingway / Pants Paisley & Gray

[left] Bruno : Canvas suit WHYRED / Shirt Paisley & Gray [right] Connor : Coat WHYRED / Sweater Ernest Hemingway / Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants Ernest Hemingway

[left page] All shirts Paisley&Gray/ All pants WHYRED / Tie Stylist's own [on this page] Stanton : Jacket Paisley & Gray / T-shirt WHYRED / Pants Paisley & Gray

[middle]Bruno : Sweat shirt WHYRED / Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants WHYRED [right] Connor : Jacket WHYRED / Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants WHYRED [left]Stanton : Jacket and shirt Paisley & Gray / Top Curator NYC / Pants WHYRED

THE CELESTIAL PARK Photography Gregory Keith Style Yuko Nakao Makeup Moises Ramirez

using M.A.C. Cosmetics

Hair Kat Zemtsova

using Amika

Nail Shani Evans Model Lika (ELITE Model Management) 34

Featured designer

BIG PARK with jewelry by KARA ROSS NEW YORK

Korean originated emerging women label, BIG PARK had landed to New York Fashion Week since spring 2015. The new fall season was concepting “LOVE”, inspired by the operetta... and all the romantic sculptures inside the Louvre in Paris. Creative Director and CEO Park Youn Soo and his daughter, Sooy as a designer, submerged the viewer into Jean de la Fontaine’s 1669 love story of ‘Psyche and Cupid’. Beautiful stained glass frescos evoke the exquisite icons of European Middle Age Catholicism.

Handsome W Kalu_Shirt KEVIN JOHNN / Hat Vintage / Earrings BRANDY PHAM

Women

Photography Marta Elena Hair and Makeup Micha Style Yuko Nakao Model Alex and Kalu (Elite Model Management)

Alex_Suit PAISLEY&GRAY / Shirt KEVIN JOHNN / Hat Vintage / Gloves HESTRA Kalu_Suit KEVIN JOHNN / Hat Vintage / Gloves HESTRA

Alex_ Suit BY MALINA / Shirt TROUBADOUR

Kalu_Jacket KEVIN JOHNN / Pants Stylist's own / Necklace BRADY PHAM

Alex_Shorts and belt Stylist's own / Earrings BRANDY PHAM Kalu_Suit BY MALINA / Shirt TROUBADOUR

of the Moment

Photograph Kazumasa Kawasaki Styling Atsushi Nagao Makeup Mari (S-14) Hair Asami Ota Model Yuka Mannami (Donna Models)

Jumpsuits SATOKO OZAWA

Jacket and pants MAINTENANT,shoes ENFOLD 48

Jacket OKIRAKU,tops KATTYXIOMARA,skirt HOUSE_COMMUNE,shoes Sellenatela

Shirt MAINTENANT,pants IHNN,shoes Sellenatela 50

Tops ENFOLD

Knit HOUSE_COMMUNE

Tops ENFOLD,pants HOUSE_COMMUNE,shoes Sellenatela

Dress G-Star RAW 54

Tops SATOKO OZAWA

Tops STUDIOUS,skirt ANDREA PONPILIO,shoes Sellenatela

Cover Page and Back Page _ Photography HAYATO SAKURAI Hair KIYONR SUD Makeup REI Style YUKO NAKAO Model CONNOR(Cover) and BRUNO(Back) ------------------Art Director_Yuki Joriku Media Producer_ Copeland Lanier Copy and Digital Content Editor _Skyler Rohwedder Asian Marketing Director _Shermin Luo

Contact info@esthetiqueny.com Address 127 Ludlow Street 4B New York, NY 10002 Japan:1-25-3 Sata Higashimachi, Moriguchi-city, Osaka, Japan

Communication_Kumi Higuchi