Estonia’s firm ties to the Marimekko brand

VINCENT TEETSOV

Their saturated, rich printed patterns are widespread. A symbol of dazzling 60s style, especially the Unikko poppy flower pattern and the scratchy urban-floral crossover of the Pieni Siirtolapuutarha pattern.

They’re on dresses, tea towels, handbags, aprons, oven mitts, pillow cases, sheets of fabric for sewing hobbyists, and more. You can find Marimekko’s products sold by so many retailers, from brick-and-mortar (including The Finnish Place in Thornhill) to online stores. You might see “Designed in Finland” and the names of specific designers for each of their patterns, but throughout, “Made in Estonia” is often found on product tags.

Whereabouts in Estonia are these items made exactly? As of May 2020 there were 11 manufacturers and suppliers that made Marimekko products in Estonia. Most of these are around Tallinn, but there are suppliers in Rapla, Jõhvi, and Tartu as well.

The labour of 309 Estonians is enlisted as part of Marimekko’s broader manufacturing workforce, working within the product ranges of home textiles, accessories, bags, and garments. Marimekko is open about where each manufacturer or supplier is located, providing details on the number of employees they have, and how long they have had a working relationship with each location. Of these Estonian manufacturers, two started working with the Finnish design house in the 90s and two started working with them in the late 2010s. Most business relationships were started between 2000 and 2008.

The largest of these is Gevatex OÜ, founded in 1996, with factories in Narva and in the Tallinn district of Rocca al Mare. Within Gevatex’s ranks, Marimekko reported that there were 90 employees, with specialized skills in manufacturing bags. Their relationship with Marimekko has endured for a long time, since 2002, with consistency in quality control and production speed. In fact, they state that they “can accept orders within 20,000 to 25,000 units per month.” This places Marimekko products side by side with the rest of Gevatex’s output, including military pack equipment and straps and handles for luggage.

Crucially, all manufacturers have to be in alignment with Marimekko’s commitment to sustainable manufacturing. In terms of materials, the Finnish company endeavours to work with cotton, wool, and silk predominantly. Among this, 88% of the cotton used is sourced as part of the Better Cotton Initiative, which seeks to support the livelihood of farmers and ecologically friendly practices of growing cotton. Innovation has come in the form of birch-cellulose fibre research and development with Aalto University in Espoo, Finland.

Marimekko’s employees maintain contact with suppliers and conduct regular visits to factories, with a majority in Europe and several across Asia. The process begins with the printing of fabric in Helsinki. Then, it’s sent to Estonia where the cutting and sewing begins. Speaking of another facility, Sangar Ltd.’s factory in Tartu, Marimekko says, “It takes about 40 minutes to make one button shirt from cutting to shipment, involving up to 40 employees on the production line.” After they’re made, products are neatly prepared for packaging and shipping out.

Though Marimekko has voiced the difficulty of factories finding new employees, these workers often stay at their respective factories for many years. They’ve seen many collections come and go and have an excitement about the brand. Plus, they have actively shaped the process that goes into manufacturing, before products get to the stage of being modelled and shared with the voracious fashion world.

From February 28th to April 28th, 2013, Eesti Tarbekunstija Disainimuuseum (the Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design) held an exhibit about Marimekko, curated by Harri Kivilinna and compiled by the Helsinki Design Museum. Through workshops, a kid’s camp, lectures, tours, and a collection of articles of clothing, homeware, and fabric samples, visitors retrospectively looked at the global reach of Marimekko’s designs. Since the company was created by Armi and Viljo Ratia in 1951, the company’s designs have been punchy and inventive.

Marimekko took over the global market with their designers, who whipped up a hurricane of colour. But, by making these designs wearable and usable over nearly three decades, Estonians have been key enablers for a globally-influential Nordic fashion brand.

Photo: company.marimekko.com