VOLUME I
THE BASICS OF ETIQUETTE Underwear & Socks
Published by Etiquette Clothiers A registered trademark of United Basics Ltd. Copyright Š 2012 by United Basics Ltd. All Rights Reserved.
THE BASICS OF ETIQUETTE
CREDI TS Copyright Š 2011 by United Basics Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Published by Etiquette Clothiers (New York/Geneva) A registered trademark of United Basics Ltd. Editor-in-chief & Creative Director: Benjamin G. Vergnion Art Director & Photography: Alex B. Cordero Author & Editorial Director: Sarah Stark Illustrations by: Alejandro Sanchez Gaspar Design Agency buro+creative / www.burocreative.com For inquiry contact: Etiquette Clothiers 110 Greene Street, Suite 703 New York, NY 10012 www.etiquetteclothiers.com A trademark of United Basics Ltd. www.unitedbasics.com For information about custom editions, special sales, premium and corporate purchases, please contact Etiquette Clothiers Sales Department at inquiry@etiquetteclothiers.com Distributed globally by United Basics Ltd. Publishing Designed in New York City, U.S.A. Printed in Ljubljana, Slovenia ISBN-13: 978-0-615-60435-0 ISBN-10: 0-61560-435-8 Special thanks to: Georges F.J. Vergnion, Rouane Wakim, Ramzi Wakim, Laurent Dusonchet Metka Vergnion, Victoria Vergnion Detiger, Jonny & Lisa Detiger Guherhan, Nagehan & Ayse Ener, Okan Ozer, John P. Graytok Brantley Gutierrez, Julien Jonchere, Gary Bott, Cristiano Gozzi -< First Edition >
To my little Charlotte & Georges IV who inspire me with more manners and fashion etiquette than most grown-ups I come across. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; B.G.V.
THE BASICS OF ETIQUETTE
CONTENTS
ORIGINS
3
PREFACE
4
HISTORY OF BASICS
6
CHAPTER IV: THE PERFECT FIT Criteria for the Critical Shopper
30
Fit Tips
31
CHAPTER V: PATTERNS YOU SHOULD KNOW
CHAPTER I: UNDERSTUDIES A Style Guide To Underwear Underwear Types
10
Rules Of Wearing
11
Underwear Personality Index
12
Underwear Don’ts
13
Rules For Patterns
34
Etiquette Clothiers Pattern Guide
35
CHAPTER VI: CARE & REPAIR Preserving & Protecting
38
Decoding The Symbols
39
CHAPTER II: FOOTNOTES
Guide To Stain Removal
40
A Style Guide To Sockwear
Darning A Hole In Socks
42
Sewing A Button
43
The Standard Staples
16
The Sock Garter
17
Wearing & Pairing
18
Match Points
19
Color Coding
20
Can’t—Go—Wrong Combos
21
Going Sockless
22
Sock Don’ts
23
CHAPTER VII: STOCKING, STOWING & JET-SETTING Closet Rules
46
How To Fold
47
Ways To Organize
48
Travel & Packing
49
APPENDIX
CHAPTER III: CRAFTSMANSHIP & DESIGN
Glossary
Underwear Anatomy
26
Quality: The Real Deal
27
50
1
ORIGINS
WORD ETI Q UETTE
The word etiquette comes from the French, and some badly behaved royalty. During the reign of Louis XIV, the king’s entourage would come to Versailles and stomp all over the gardens, trampling on the newly planted lawns. The master gardener, an old Scotsman, tried to keep trespassers off by putting up little signs, called etiquettes. These “keep off the grass” warnings were ignored, so the gardener complained to the king, who issued an edict that officially instructed everyone at court to stop trashing the palace grounds and obey the etiquettes.
3
THE BASICS OF ETIQUETTE
ETIQUETTE IS A CODE OF BEHAVIOR The rules of etiquette are usually unwritten — they’re the underlying standards of society, the things that keep us from offending friends and killing strangers on crowded public transportation. Likewise, your style starts with the basics: underwear and socks. Etiquette begins with what you first put on each day. It’s the foundation of your everyday dress routine. The essential building blocks of your personal style. It goes beyond dressing for others. It’s not about wearing hole-free socks because you have to take your shoes off at the airport security line, or saving your best underwear for doctors’ appointments or because you might get lucky that night. It’s a general ongoing practice. A protocol that makes you look presentable and feel prepared for whatever might come your way. There’s something purpose-defeating about sad, stretched-out underwear or a threadbare sock underneath a bespoke suit. Proper dress means caring not just about clothing, but underclothing. Why does it matter? Your underwear is probably the closest thing to you at any given moment. Even though others might not know what’s going on underneath, you’ll walk around with the secret smirk of confidence. It makes you feel spiffy. It puts a little spring in your step. It adds some spark to the day-in, day-out, same-old routine. It prevents you from being embarrassed if an intimate encounter should arise.
4
PREFACE
Etiquette is not a science — it’s an art. These are guiding principles, not hard-and-fast laws. The most important thing about rules is knowing how-and when-to break them. Being well-dressed (and well-mannered) isn’t about rigidity. It’s not about an elite top-hats-and-tails formality, or wearing an old-fashioned monocle while having high-tea with your pinky finger extended. It’s not repression, but expression. It’s a respect for tradition mixed with a modern, who-gives-a-damn, who-the-hell-cares spin. Good style, like good manners, means having a personality, but not being overbearing. A sense of humor, without being rude. It’s knowing what’s appropriate for any given situation — and adding your own je ne sais quoi. It’s a base of civility — with a healthy dose of irreverence tossed in for good measure. Is etiquette obsolete in today’s tell-all, show-all, post-all world? Knowing that your picture might end up tagged in cyberspace for all eternity, isn’t it more important than ever to make sure you look good?
THE BASICS OF ETIQUETTE:
“
You’ve got to cover your bottom
”
and put your best foot forward.
5
THE BASICS OF ETIQUETTE
HISTORY OF BASICS 30,000 B.C.
The Thong’s Ancestor Leather loincloths are used to protect man’s nether region. Not much changes for many millennia.
1341 B.C
Before Mubarak King Tut is born and models underwear on Ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics.
1935
Brief Encounters Men’s briefs hit the scene first appearance, inspired by a postcard of a man in a bikini swimsuit. They’re an instant hit.
1940s—50s
Rock Around the Socks Bobby socks become fashionable. The origin of the name is enigmatic, though it may relate to the “bobby pin” which is also popular.
6
1400s
Codpiece Fashion Craze Beloved for both their practical function (allowing easy access for bathroom breaks) and their decorative purposes (providing ego-boosting padding) an early form of false advertising.
1500s
Rich Guys and Hose Gentlemen of wealth and influence wear stockings. The wealthier and more influential the man, the more ornate and opulent the hosiery.
1980s
Miami Vice Don Johnson sets off the sockless trend, along with pastel colors and the Euro blazer and t-shirt combo.
1985
Going Commando The official term for freestyling it appears in print for the first time.
HISTORY OF BASICS
1887
Democratization of Socks
1600s
The Man Mandate
The mechanical knitting machine is invented. Mass production makes socks affordable for all social classes. The original loom design from England is secreted to France.
Dandy extraordinaire Beau Brummell pronounces that a proper gentleman should have no less than twelve sets of undershorts. Also recommends polishing shoes with champagne.
1770s
1900s
Flamboyant Macaroni Young noblemen in England embrace a feminine form of tight, bright, and often loudly striped stockings popularly known as the “macaroni” style.
A Clean Sweep Hygiene is a new priority. Public health officials press the importance of the regular changing of undergarments. Odor is also cited as a factor.
2008
1990s
Underwear Economy
Dropping Trow Marky Mark proves that underwear can make the man. Also, a generation publicly displays their underwear, as baggy jeans hang precariously closer to Nike-clad feet.
1994
Boxers or Briefs Presidential hopeful Bill Clinton answers the age-old question. His platform: “usually briefs.”
Federal Reserve chairman Alan Greenspan reveals that the state of the men’s underwear industry is an important indicator of the economy’s health. During a recession, guys skimp on the purchase of new undies. Take note!
2009
Late—Night Socks Anna Wintour from Vogue makes first appearance on the Late Show. Calls David Letterman’s socks “interesting.”
7
CHAPTER I
UNDERSTUDIES A Style Guide To Underwear
UNDERWEAR TYPES RULES OF WEARING UNDERWEAR PERSONALITY INDEX UNDERWEAR DON’TS
THE BASICS OF ETIQUETTE
U N DERWEAR T Y PES These are the foundation of your wardrobe. Here’s a quick compendium of the style staples the modern gentleman needs to complete his closet. Note the psychological implications of underwear: Do you want freedom or security?
BR I EFS
B OX E R S
BOXER BRIEFS
T RUNKS
The Old-Fashioned Original
The Easy Classic
The Sporty Standard
The New Hybrid
CHARACTERISTICS:
CHARACTERISTICS:
CHARACTERISTICS:
CHARACTERISTICS:
THE PERKS:
THE PERKS:
THE PERKS:
THE PERKS:
Tighty-whiteys (or brighteys if you opt for color) keep everything under control. Simple and supportive, they’re minimalism at its best.
Prevents dangling. Won’t bunch up under pants. Shows off a six-pack.
10
Typically made of woven shirting fabric, they’re often considered the straight-guy’s go-to. While often worn by traditionalists, it’s also the most freestyle with the roomiest cut.
Looks good if you’re a little out of shape. Keeps you ventilated. Front fly is easy to use. Socially acceptable as loungewear.
Like the name says, it’s a cross between boxers and briefs. Longer in length than trunks, but with a similar streamlined silhouette that keeps you from movin’ and shakin’ too much.
A versatile style. Provides some support for athletic activity. Not so skimpy. Has a sporty spin.
Shorter than a boxer brief, but longer than a brief. Just think “truncated” to remember the length. A best-of-both-worlds style that provides a bit more coverage but still keeps everything in its place.
The wear-anywhere style goes under pretty much everything and works for every body type. Won’t ride up under pants. Has a modern vibe.
UNDERSTUDIES: A STYLE GUIDE TO UNDERWEAR
R U LES O F WEARI NG
“
The golden rule of etiquette:
Simper ubi sub ubi. Always wear underwear.
Pant Pointers
”
When wearing dress pants: Beware of billowy boxers. You don’t want your shorts all bunched up. Either wear the trimfitting, happy-medium of boxer briefs, or stick with the classics and go with briefs. When wearing tight or slim-fitting pants: Briefs are the obvious choice. Unless you’re looking to follow the ladies’ lead and try the thong route to eliminate all signs of underwear lines.
Occasions When on a 1st date/Valentine’s/wedding: Wear nice underwear every day, and you won’t have to worry about this. When working out: Wear briefs for cardio. Boxer briefs for working out, if you don’t feel the need for extra support for your goodies. FACTOID
“LUCKY UNDERWEAR” Scientific studies have proven that lucky underwear improves athletic performance. Recent psychological research shows that a combination of talent, training and good-luck underwear probably made Michael Jordan perform as well as he did.
11
THE BASICS OF ETIQUETTE
U NDE R W E A R PERSONALI T Y I N DEX The Hang Loose Guy Boxers, preferably with a built-in hammock
The Conservative Guy Briefs
The Sporty Guy Boxer Briefs
The Fashion Guy Trunks
The All-Around Guy
A true renaissance man isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t defined by his underwear. This one always keeps his options open with a variety of silhouettes.
12
Thank you for Previewing
“The Basics of Etiquette” -The hardcover edition of the book is available for purchase on our website. A digital version can also be download from the Apple iTunes Store.
ISBN-13: 978-0-615-60435-0 ISBN-10: 0-61560-435-8
Published by Etiquette Clothiers A registered trademark of United Basics Ltd. Copyright © 2012 by United Basics Ltd. All Rights Reserved.