First Look

San Antonio’s Tokyo Cowboy offers mashup of craft cocktails, Asian-inspired eats

BY NINA RANGEL

When developers of new downtown eatery Tokyo Cowboy billed it as a “Japanese whisky diner,” it’s a safe bet many local diners were left wondering just what the hell that meant.

However, a Thursday, April 27 sneak peek of the street-level spot for local food writers was illuminating. The preview showcased a casual combination of creative craft cocktails and hearty diner-inspired eats with both Japanese and Texas touches.

Tokyo Cowboy’s stylish yet approachable interior bore a similarity to owner Chris Hill’s other downtown ventures — he operates the equally spiffy Esquire Tavern, Downstairs and Hugman’s Oasis on the same block. Natural light washed in from the restaurant’s banks of windows, showcasing warm wood tones, cool green accents and delicate shell light fixtures.

The setting evoked calming, casual vibes, allowing the food and drinks to provide even more of a punch to the palate.

Food writers sampled half a dozen of the eatery’s bites, which its partners call “Tokyo-meets-Texas” fare. Those included a brisket egg roll, a crab butter roll, Spam musubi, dashi corn waffles and steak bavette. Developed by partner Ben Cachila, formerly of Austin’s nationally renowned Japanese eatery Uchi, the dishes all bore heavy Asian influences.

That means adventurous diners can expect touches such as a kimchi vinaigrette and katsuobushi, or simmered, smoked and fermented skipjack tuna shavings.

The brisket egg roll married pickled collard greens, queso asadero and its titular smoked meat in a crispy fried wrapper. A chili-herb ranch dipping sauce provided a dose of heat.

The crisp dashi corn waffle was topped with a tower of pork belly, blanched shrimp, kewpie mayo and

Katsuobushi flakes. The complex bite ended up being our table’s favorite. The steak was also a winner, featuring expertly prepared, succulent flank served with charred scallions, chili and a complex pesto-chimichurri hybrid.

Cocktails ranged from boozy, high-octane affairs to easy drinking, tiki-reminiscent sippers. At our table, the consensus was that the Fist of Fury — rum, lychee, strawberry and mint served over crushed ice —was the most balanced, if heavy on the ice. The Liquid Sword should come with a warning, since its complex flavors of Japanese gin, plum wine, dry vermouth, sherry and shisho bitters aren’t for the faint of heart.

The preview made clear that Tokyo Cowboy offers a different and more approachable feel than Hill’s other spots. It’s easily the most low-key in appearance, and the eclectic food and drink are interesting enough that they may appeal to casual diners rather than folks seeking an elevated bar experience.

Tokyo Cowboy will open to the public Saturday, April 29, at 135 E. Commerce St. It’s in the River Walk space that previously housed Vietnamese comfort food spot House of Má.

The restaurant’s operating hours will be 4-10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 4p.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday.

News

Betty’s Battalion, a landmark bar in the Government Hill area serving military personnel and veterans, has closed after 37 years.

Vegetarian-friendly food truck Righteous Pie is no longer in operation. The mobile kitchen’s owners cited road construction and inflation as their reasons for leaving the business.

The founder of San Antonio’s El Camino and Bésame food truck parks will open a sports bar near UTSA, in the former Cantina Sports Bar.

Owners of San Antonio dance club Cream soon will christen a multi-level goth nightspot at St. Paul Square, just steps from 1902 Nightclub and jazz haven Versa

The Illinois-based Beerhead chain will open a spot in San Antonio later this year specializing in craft brews and pub grub.

Openings

Asian-inspired beer garden Wurst Behavior is now open, offering accessible, beer-ready food with an Asian twist. 358 East Craig Place, (281) 433-1292, wurstbehaviortx.com.

Mila Coffee opened its second location at Make Ready Market on May 1, slinging coffee-based sippers at the owners’ first standalone brickand-mortar shop. 203 W. 8th St., instagram.com/ milacoffeesa.

Bunz Express, from the minds behind Bunz Handcrafted Burgers, has opened in far Northwest San Antonio. 6819 N. Loop 1604 W., (210) 354-3555, tastybunz.com.