19 minute read
EATS
FOOD & DRINK FOOD & DRINK
Mid City Restaurant
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY Mid City Restaurant
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY
City’ i in
It took a couple of tries for me to fully appreciate the allure of Mid City, a relatively new bar and restaurant on Court Street. Last summer, I stopped in for a quick snack and to meet a new editor. All I recall is that the “small plates” struck me as really tiny and included a couple of items that seemed exceptionally unusual. Chicken hearts, anyone? We tried them, I found them not to my liking, and left thinking this place might not be my cup of tea.
But friends kept telling me to give Mid City another shot. ey loved the food, drinks and ambiance and said that the menu had enough variety that I could avoid anything that didn’t suit my taste. e location certainly is prime – at the northern edge of downtown and easily accessible to Over-the-Rhine – as well.
Turns out, the chicken hearts were a hit, according to owner Mike Stankovich, whom I talked with recently. ey’re o the menu for now but could well make a return, he said.
Stankovich also owns the laid-back OTR bar Longfellow and spent many years in the restaurant business in other cities, such as Boston and Washington, D.C. All of that experience seems to have given him a clear notion of what he wanted to do with Mid City.
“I like casual, simple but e ective food and places where the focus is on having a good time,” he said. at’s exactly what I found on a recent visit with friends. Every seat in the bar and dining room was lled, and the whole place resounded with conversation and laughter. e décor is rather minimalist – Stankovich said he was inspired by “old
City’ i in
It took a couple of tries for me to fully appreciate the allure of Mid City, a relatively new bar and restaurant on Court Street. Last summer, I stopped in for a quick snack and to meet a new editor. All I recall is that the “small plates” struck me as really tiny and included a couple of items that seemed exceptionally unusual. Chicken hearts, anyone? We tried them, I found them not to my liking, and left thinking this place might not be my cup of tea.
But friends kept telling me to give Mid City another shot. ey loved the food, drinks and ambiance and said that the menu had enough variety that I could avoid anything that didn’t suit my taste. e location certainly is prime – at the northern edge of downtown and easily accessible to Over-the-Rhine – as well. Turns out, the chicken hearts were a hit, according to owner Mike Stankovich, whom I talked with recently. dining cars and old pizza restaurants” – which helps keep the focus on one’s companions and, of course, the food and drink. I also got a kick out of the wellappointed restroom, which to me is a test of a proprietor’s attention to customers’ comfort. It’s not fancy or especially creative, but all the little thoughtful touches made me feel cared for.
ey’re o the menu for now but could well make a return, he said.
Stankovich also owns the laid-back OTR bar Longfellow and spent many years in the restaurant business in other cities, such as Boston and Washington, D.C. All of that experience seems to have given him a clear notion of what he wanted to do with Mid City.
“I like casual, simple but e ective food and places where the focus is on having a good time,” he said. at’s exactly what I found on a recent visit with friends. Every seat in the bar and dining room was lled, and the whole place resounded with conversation and laughter. e décor is rather minimalist – Stankovich said he was inspired by “old dining cars and old pizza restaurants” – which helps keep the focus on one’s companions and, of course, the food and drink. I also got a kick out of the wellappointed restroom, which to me is a test of a proprietor’s attention to customers’ comfort. It’s not fancy or especially creative, but all the little thoughtful touches made me feel cared for.
“I like casual, simple but effective food places where the focus is on having a good time,” says Mid City owner Mike Stankovich.
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY “I like casual, simple but effective food places where the focus is on having a good time,” says Mid City owner Mike Stankovich.
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY
According to CityBeat’s dining critic, Mid City’s mushrooms in foil is a hit.
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY According to CityBeat’s dining critic, Mid City’s mushrooms in foil is a hit.
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY
Mid City’s minimalist decor is inspired by old dining cars and pizza restaurants.
PHOTO: FACEBOOK.COM/MIDCITYCINTI Mid City’s minimalist decor is inspired by old dining cars and pizza restaurants.
PHOTO: FACEBOOK.COM/MIDCITYCINTI
e kitchen team at Mid City includes veterans of many of Cincinnati’s nest dining establishments, including Mita’s and Fausto. Ever since the dining room opened over a year ago, chef Francisco Alfaro and sous-chef Joe Cheek have cooked most of the hot dishes on a plancha – a metal griddle – or by using a deep fryer. With a few cold items such as salads and a couple of desserts, the team manages an e cient use of space in what is overall a fairly small footprint.
Although they opened the bar in October 2021 and the dining room a little later, Stankovich said Mid City got a “big lift” when Bon Appétit magazine selected it as one of the best new restaurants in the U.S. at happened last summer, and pretty soon it became hard to snag a table or bar stool even on weeknights.
We made a reservation a couple weeks ahead and had to settle for ursday instead of Friday or Saturday. Our table in the small dining room was one of the rst to ll, but within a half-hour the room was packed with high-spirited downtowners.
Our food came out in two rounds, approximating rst and second courses as chosen by the kitchen sta . We’d already been set up with cocktails: a couple of martinis, a Manhattan and a rum-based drink dubbed El Presidente. Soon thereafter, a profusion of plates showed up and we dug in.
Everyone smiled and nodded as we passed the dishes around. Almost everything about this course pleased our palates. Chilled radicchio salad satis ed my desire for a light, crunchy bite and contrasted well with several fried preparations of other veggies. ose included tempura Brussels sprouts, tender artichokes and expertly prepared sweet potato fries, though I later wished they’d held the fries to go with my burger delivered in round two.
A dish simply called Mushrooms in Foil stood out as well, with the tiny, exotic mushrooms cooked in butter and soy sauce and given a welcome bitterness with a hint of turnip greens. All of this went great with the griddled baguette – I love grilled bread in all its iterations – accompanied by pickle butter.
By now, there was no room at the bar, either, but service remained e cient. With the table cleared of spent dishes and another round of drinks o ered, our second course arrived. Maybe I already was getting full, but none of these plates quite measured up to what we’d already enjoyed.
Friends had advised me to order the Skipper Burger, which was o ered as a special. Basically, it’s a small hamburger with saucing that includes a schmear of peanut butter. Stankovich pointed out that many cultures pair meat with peanuts, such as satay. But alas, my burger was so overcooked that it didn’t matter what sauces had been added; to me, it was close to inedible. e chicken skewer my friend ordered was similarly dry from too long on the re and its sauce was too bland to make up for that. Someone else selected fried smelts and I had a bite, but the avor was too strong for my taste. ere was one de nite hit on this round – the Mid City Plate, a bestseller from opening day, according to Stankovich. It’s a medium-sized plate of three kinds of fairly mild sausages, a mound of well-seasoned sauerkraut, boiled potatoes with a side of zippy
e kitchen team at Mid City includes veterans of many of Cincinnati’s nest dining establishments, including Mita’s and Fausto. Ever since the dining room opened over a year ago, chef Francisco Alfaro and sous-chef Joe Cheek have cooked most of the hot dishes on a plancha – a metal griddle – or by using a deep fryer. With a few cold items such as salads and a couple of desserts, the team manages an e cient use of space in what is overall a fairly small footprint. Although they opened the bar in October 2021 and the dining room a little later, Stankovich said Mid City got a “big lift” when Bon Appétit magazine selected it as one of the best new restaurants in the U.S. at happened last summer, and pretty soon it became hard to snag a table or bar stool even on weeknights. We made a reservation a couple weeks ahead and had to settle for ursday instead of Friday or Saturday. Our table in the small dining room was one of the rst to ll, but within a half-hour the room was packed with high-spirited downtowners. Our food came out in two rounds, approximating rst and second courses as chosen by the kitchen sta . We’d mustard that was only slightly more than one person could nish. It also comes in small or large sizes. e wine list is limited but well chosen, and don’t miss the port and sherries o ered with dessert. Sweet bites are Baked Alaska or a slice of Slab Pie. I loved that a tiny bit of the meringue on the Alaska had been scorched black. I dig a hint of “burned” on some foods, such as popcorn, grilled bread or French fries, but not everyone does, as I learned from my table mates. e tab for such a feast did not break the bank, which is always nice. We rolled out of Mid City when the crowd was starting to thin, happy to have gured out the allure of this addition to the Court Street renaissance. already been set up with cocktails: a couple of martinis, a Manhattan and a rum-based drink dubbed El Presidente. Soon thereafter, a profusion of plates showed up and we dug in. Everyone smiled and nodded as we passed the dishes around. Almost everything about this course pleased our palates. Chilled radicchio salad satis ed my desire for a light, crunchy bite and contrasted well with several fried preparations of other veggies. ose included tempura Brussels sprouts, tender artichokes and expertly prepared sweet potato fries, though I later wished they’d held the fries to go with my burger delivered in round two. A dish simply called Mushrooms in Foil stood out as well, with the tiny, exotic mushrooms cooked in butter and soy sauce and given a welcome bitterness with a hint of turnip greens. All of this went great with the griddled baguette – I love grilled bread in all its iterations – accompanied by pickle butter. By now, there was no room at the bar, either, but service remained e cient. With the table cleared of spent dishes and another round of drinks o ered, our second course arrived. Maybe I already was getting full, but none of these plates quite measured up to what we’d already enjoyed. Friends had advised me to order the Skipper Burger, which was o ered as a special. Basically, it’s a small hamburger with saucing that includes a schmear of peanut butter. Stankovich pointed out that many cultures pair meat with peanuts, such as satay. But alas, my burger was so overcooked that it didn’t matter what sauces had been added; to me, it was close to inedible. e chicken skewer my friend ordered was similarly dry from too long on the re and its sauce was too bland to make up for that. Someone else selected fried smelts and I had a bite, but the avor was too strong for my taste. ere was one de nite hit on this round – the Mid City Plate, a bestseller from opening day, according to Stankovich. It’s a medium-sized plate of three kinds of fairly mild sausages, a mound of well-seasoned sauerkraut, boiled potatoes with a side of zippy mustard that was only slightly more than one person could nish. It also comes in small or large sizes. e wine list is limited but well chosen, and don’t miss the port and sherries o ered with dessert. Sweet bites are Baked Alaska or a slice of Slab Pie. I loved that a tiny bit of the meringue on the Alaska had been scorched black. I dig a hint of “burned” on some foods, such as popcorn, grilled bread or French fries, but not everyone does, as I learned from my table mates. e tab for such a feast did not break the bank, which is always nice. We rolled out of Mid City when the crowd was starting to thin, happy to have gured out the allure of this addition to the Court Street renaissance.
Mid City features tempura vegetables.
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY Mid City features tempura vegetables.
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY
Mid City Restaurant,
Mid City Restaurant, 40 E. Court St., Downtown. 40 E. Court St., Downtown. Info: midcitycinti.com. Info: midcitycinti.com.
EATS EATS Chimaek’s Fried Korean Food and Drink Selection Provide an Chimaek’s Fried Korean Food and Drink Selection Provide an Easy Night Out in Covington
Easy Night Out in Covington BY SEAN M. PETERS
BY SEAN M. PETERS
The Kims own Chimaek, shown here, as well as Riverside Korean in Covington.
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY The Kims own Chimaek, shown here, as well as Riverside Korean in Covington.
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY
Bruce and Yujin Kim opened Chimaek in November.
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY Bruce and Yujin Kim opened Chimaek in November.
PHOTO: AIDAN MAHONEY
Covington’s developing dining scene can tally up another win with the addition of Chimaek. e new pub serves succulent fried chicken wings and tenders, crispy vegetable tempura, an array of tangy and savory Korean side dishes and, to round out the experience, plenty of beer and cocktails.
Owned by the same family that runs Riverside Korean Restaurant just around the block, Chimaek opened in November. e restaurant’s name is a combination of shortened words: “chi” for chicken, while “maek” is short for maekju, the Korean word for beer.
“It’s a catchphrase you would use,” Bruce Kim, Chimaek’s co-owner and chef, explains about his restaurant’s name. “Like how, here, you might ask if someone wants ‘B-dubs’ [short for BW3, Bu alo Wild Wings], which usually means you want to go out to eat wings and drink beer. You just look at someone
Covington’s developing dining scene can tally up another win with the addition of Chimaek. e new pub serves succulent fried chicken wings and tenders, crispy vegetable tempura, an array of tangy and savory Korean side dishes and, to round out the experience, plenty of beer and cocktails. Owned by the same family that runs Riverside Korean Restaurant just around the block, Chimaek opened in November. e restaurant’s name is a combination of shortened words: “chi” for chicken, while “maek” is short for maekju, the Korean word for beer. “It’s a catchphrase you would use,” Bruce Kim, Chimaek’s co-owner and chef, explains about his restaurant’s name. “Like how, here, you might ask if someone wants ‘B-dubs’ [short for BW3, Bu alo Wild Wings], which usually means you want to go out to eat wings and drink beer. You just look at someone and ask, ‘chimaek?’” e menu at Chimaek is simple-yete ective. While there are dishes certain to please any palate, the main emphasis is on crunchy fried food to complement beer consumption. For those who are more into cocktails, Kim recommends trying something prepared with soju, a typically low-ABV distilled spirit favored at Korean tables. e bar has several ways to enjoy soju that highlights its clean taste. For the closest approximation to a classic Korean nightlife experience, Kim recommends starting with a few orders of wings for the table with a rst round of drinks. Whether this is a late-night dinner or a fourth meal to soak up an evening’s worth of frivolity, be sure to include an extra order of pickled radish. Sweet and acidic, Kim prepares it as the perfect accompaniment to salty fried chicken. It’s best to keep a good balance of food and drink to make the most of an
and ask, ‘chimaek?’” e menu at Chimaek is simple-yete ective. While there are dishes certain to please any palate, the main emphasis is on crunchy fried food to complement beer consumption. For those who are more into cocktails, Kim recommends trying something prepared with soju, a typically low-ABV distilled spirit favored at Korean tables. e bar has several ways to enjoy soju that highlights its clean taste. For the closest approximation to a classic Korean nightlife experience, Kim recommends starting with a few orders of wings for the table with a rst round of drinks. Whether this is a late-night dinner or a fourth meal to soak up an evening’s worth of frivolity, be sure to include an extra order of pickled radish. Sweet and acidic, Kim prepares it as the perfect accompaniment to salty fried chicken. It’s best to keep a good balance of food and drink to make the most of an
“Chicken and beer – those things go together pretty well,” Chimaek owner Bruce Kim says.
PHOTO: SEAN M. PETERS “Chicken and beer – those things go together pretty well,” Chimaek owner Bruce Kim says.
PHOTO: SEAN M. PETERS evening and, Kim explains, lighter beers evening and, Kim explains, lighter beers like lagers are most popular. e vegetable tempura at Chimaek includes broccoli, cauli ower and thinly sliced sweet potato. It’s lling enough to serve as a worthwhile entree for vegetarian diners, but an order of onion rings or wa e fries drizzled with spicy mayo and teriyaki would be a welcome and shareable addition. Dipping sauces are served on the side unless otherwise ordered for the wings and tenders. “I always do sauce on the side,” Kim says. “If you need some sauce it’s there, but eating it on its own is ne, too. Besides, if the sauce is on it too long, it makes the batter all soggy.” Kim, who owns and operates the Korean eateries with his wife Yujin, moved to Cincinnati via Chicago in 2006. A truck driver for FedEx before he came here, Kim rst took a restaurant job in Riverside Korean when it was still operated by the original owners. Slowly learning the di erent aspects of the dining industry from the ground up, Kim started as a dishwasher before getting like lagers are most popular. e vegetable tempura at Chimaek includes broccoli, cauli ower and thinly sliced sweet potato. It’s lling enough to serve as a worthwhile entree for vegetarian diners, but an order of onion rings or wa e fries drizzled with spicy mayo and teriyaki would be a welcome and shareable addition. Dipping sauces are served on the side unless otherwise ordered for the wings and tenders. “I always do sauce on the side,” Kim says. “If you need some sauce it’s there, but eating it on its own is ne, too. Besides, if the sauce is on it too long, it makes the batter all soggy.” Kim, who owns and operates the Korean eateries with his wife Yujin, moved to Cincinnati via Chicago in 2006. A truck driver for FedEx before he came here, Kim rst took a restaurant job in Riverside Korean when it was still operated by the original owners. Slowly learning the di erent aspects of the dining industry from the ground up, Kim started as a dishwasher before getting introduced to kitchen work. In 2014, he introduced to kitchen work. In 2014, he decided to run Korean Riverside when decided to run Korean Riverside when the opportunity presented itself. “It took me a little bit just to learn it, but thanks to my mom, I learned how to do certain recipes, certain techniques,” Kim says. “ e only advantage for me is my mom’s cooking; I know what it is supposed to taste like.” Kim and his sta launched Chimaek with evening hours to get a feel for things, with current listed hours as 4-10 p.m. Sunday through ursday and staying open an extra hour Friday and Saturday (the restaurant is closed on Mondays). If demand is high enough, there’s potential for lunch service down the line. Looking at the bar and dining room’s decor, it’s boldly colorful, modern while still capturing some old school charm in a very inviting way — much like the food itself. “Chicken and beer – those things go together pretty well,” Kim says. “As long as we’ve got a good establishment with a good vibe, good atmosphere and good the opportunity presented itself. “It took me a little bit just to learn it, but thanks to my mom, I learned how to do certain recipes, certain techniques,” Kim says. “ e only advantage for me is my mom’s cooking; I know what it is supposed to taste like.” Kim and his sta launched Chimaek with evening hours to get a feel for things, with current listed hours as 4-10 p.m. Sunday through ursday and staying open an extra hour Friday and Saturday (the restaurant is closed on Mondays). If demand is high enough, there’s potential for lunch service down the line. Looking at the bar and dining room’s decor, it’s boldly colorful, modern while still capturing some old school charm in a very inviting way — much like the food itself. “Chicken and beer – those things go together pretty well,” Kim says. “As long as we’ve got a good establishment with a good vibe, good atmosphere and good food, I think we’ll do ne.” food, I think we’ll do ne.” Chimaek, 405 Scott St., Covington.
Chimaek, 405 Scott St., Covington. Info: getchimaek.com. Info: getchimaek.com.
