FOOD

Detroit Soul

313-366–5600

14300 E. Jefferson Ave., Detroit detroitsoul.net

Dinners $17.99-$22.99 smothered pork chops, where the copious but bland gravy covered up any flavor of pork; I’d get the plain ones next time. A lighter hand was used with fried catfish and perch. These are done with a light, crisp coat and a buttery flavor; even if you don’t order fish for your dinner, try the catfish fritter appetizer, which almost literally melts in the mouth.

Salmon cakes, another appetizer, are similar in their good texture, with the lightest of crusts, though they include more ingredients and have a little bit of peppery bite. This is another one of the traditions that came from poverty, where families could get some protein from an inexpensive can.

Meatloaf is pretty dense and moist, not overly salted though perhaps overgravied.