Top Tables

2022

Clockwise from top left: Juju, YH Seafood Clubhouse, Ava Mediterraegean, Doshi. [photos by Rob Bartlett]

times are a foregone conclusion. (susuruorl.com/juju-rest aurant, opened in August)

No. 3: YH Seafood Clubhouse

Tampa Bay restaurateur John Zhao expressed his enthusiasm for Orlando’s restaurant scene by investing $1.75 million into this sprawling and handsomely appointed restaurant specializing in soaring salvers of Hong Kong-style seafood à la Toronto’s Fishman Lobster Clubhouse. But the real draw at YH is the team of experienced chefs Zhao lured from New York City. Their exceptional skills at firing and plating an ambitious style of Cantonese cuisine, be it dramatically presented Mandarin bass or salt-and-pepper flounder, or showstopping platters of fried lobster piled high with French fries, fried scallions, chilies and garlic, is unmatched. Same goes for the dim sum menu — it may very well be the best in the city. (yhseafoodclubhouse.com, opened in April)

No. 4: Ava Mediterraegean

The trendy Mediterranean hotspot in the heart of Park Avenue may be saturated in SoBe swank, but its menu packs the sort of substance that only makes people-watching at Ava all the more enjoyable. The Riviera Dining Group out of Miami poured a pretty penny into redesigning the old Luma space, and pretty it is. And while there’s a propensity for pyrotechnics in both food and drink, consider the offerings here a foray into Greek “lit.” Indeed, the signature block of potato mille-feuille is absolute fire and worth the trip alone, though bracing dorade tartare and salt-baked branzino also merit consideration. Perhaps most notably, Ava has made many a Winter Parker forget about the space’s much-loved former tenant. (avamediterraegean.com, opened in February)

No. 5: Doshi

Going from ghost kitchen outfit to modern Korean American eating house à la NYC stalwarts Atomix, Ataboy, Jungsik and Jua was no easy feat for chef-owner Gene Kim, but an assist from restaurateurs Johnny and Jimmy Tung made Doshi a reality. The restaurant comprises a six-seat chef’s counter where a contemporary, progressive and seasonal tasting menu is offered, as well as a modern dining room where à la carte options of reimagined Hanguk cuisine go beyond gochujang drizzles and kimchi ornamentation. (doshiorlando.com, opened in March)

Honorable mention: The Wellborn

Team Market Group (Mathers Social Gathering, Robinson Room, Plantees, Taco Kat) took over the historic Wellborn property in 2019, and in just three COVID-era years, they spiffed up the property, cleaned up the grounds and contemporized the aesthetics. This August, under the charge of culinary director Nick Grecco and executive chef Ivesant Geigel, the Wellborn’s menu was completely modernized with an offering of Floribbean-focused small plates that absolutely floor. Of note: brie grilled-cheese brioche stuffed with duck confit and white truffle oil over mango jam, and grilled prawns slicked in chili-lime butter. Noted pastry chef Amanda McFall (Ravenous Pig, Urbain 40) oversees the dessert menu. Best of all, meals can be enjoyed in any of the Wellborn’s inviting and intimate spaces. (thewellborn orlando.com, opened in August)

fkara@orlandoweekly.com