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BAR GUIDE Bars for Beer Lovers
Tres Generaciones Cadillac Margarita
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Publisher Chris Keating Editor in Chief Rosalind Early
EDITORIAL
Managing Editor Jessica Rogen Editor at Large Daniel Hill Digital Content Editors Jaime Lees, Jenna Jones Food Editor Cheryl Baehr Staff Writers Ryan Krull, Monica Obradovic, Benjamin Simon Copy Editor Evie Hemphill Photographers Theo Welling, Jen West Editorial Interns Julian McCall, Carlos Mendoza, Lulu Nix, Kasey Noss, Olivia Poolos
ART & PRODUCTION
Art Director Evan Sult Creative Director Haimanti Germain Production Manager Sean Bieri Graphic Designer Aspen Smit
TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction
By Rosalind Early
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Breweries for Beer Lovers
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Classic Breweries
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Breweries Worth the Trip
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Finally, a Non-Alcoholic Beer You Want to Drink By Cheryl Baehr
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Beer Places for Food Lovers
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Beer Bars
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Cheap Beer Bars
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M U LTI M E D IA ADVE RTI S I N G
Associate Publisher Colin Bell Account Manager Jennifer Samuel Directors of Business Development Rachel Hoppman, Chelsea Nazaruk
Directors of Sponsorship Sales Deanna Schmidt
MARKETING
Director of Marketing & Events Christina Kimerle Marketing Coordinator Sydney Schaefer
BUSINESS
Regional Operations Director Emily Fear
CIRCULATION
Circulation Manager Kevin G. Powers
EUCLID MEDIA GROUP
Chief Executive Officer Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Officers Chris Keating, Michael Wagner Executive Editor Sarah Fenske VP of Digital Services Stacy Volhein VP of Marketing Emily Tintera, Cassandra Yardeni Executive Assistant Mackenzie Dean www.euclidmediagroup.com
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SUNTORY
Photo by THEO
WELLING Bartender ANGIE LOEFFLER sets you up
at Social House.
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WELCOME TO THE
— 2022
BAR GUIDE B Y R O S A L I N D E A R LY
ST. LOUIS IS A beer town. According to beer historians, John Coons somewhat poetically opened the city’s first brewery in 1809 at the site where the Gateway Arch now stands. But beer didn’t really get going in St. Louis until German immigrants flooded the place in the mid-1800s. When Adam Lemp closed down his grocery store to open up a saloon and brewery, he had no idea that he was starting a trend. Soon there were 40 breweries in town, including one owned by Eberhard Anheuser. Adolphus Busch, Anheuser's son-in-law, would join him to help grow the enterprise. In the 1920s, Prohibition sank a lot of breweries, including Lemp’s, but a few managed to survive, including Anheuser-Busch. For much of the 20th century, we were a city in the shadow of Anheuser-Busch. And we loved it. Driving past the brewery, smelling the hops, taking a (then free) brewery tour was as St. Louis as asking someone where they went to high school. Thankfully, though, someone wanted more for us, and that someone was Tom Schlafly, who opened the city’s first modern craft brewery in 1991. Schlafly’s success cracked open the scene, and breweries started popping up all over the place. An especially fruitful year
was 2011, which brought, among others, Perennial, 4 Hands, Civil Life and Urban Chestnut — now all considered stalwarts of the St. Louis beer scene. Our breweries and brewpubs are one of the chief reasons USA Today gave us the Best Beer Scene title in 2018 and 2019. (We came in second in 2020 and 2021.) But real beer lovers know that brewpubs are only half the scene. You also need beer bars. Bars where there are 40 beers on tap, and you can try sours, stouts and brews named after small German and Irish villages. You need a spot where, when you look at the beer list, you need a minute, OK? So if you love beer, particularly St. Louis beer, and you want to know the best places to hoist a few, then this guide has got you covered. Not only do we take you into the best breweries in the area, but we also recommend where to go when food is just as important as the beer selection, when you need a good beer bar — or when you really just want the beer to be cheap. We also recommend some places that are farther afield but definitely worth the trip, and we introduce you to WellBeing, a nonalcoholic craft beer that’s actually good. So grab your favorite lager or ale and get to reading. Prost! BAR GUIDE 2022 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 7
Six Mile Bridge.
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BREWERIES — — FOR — — BEER LOVERS
2nd Shift Brewing
1601 Sublette Avenue No. 2, 314-669-9013 2ndshiftbrewing.com In 1999, Steve Crider got a homebrewing kit for Christmas. By the following year, he was brewing 20 to 40 gallons of beer a week, he told Sauce Magazine in 2016. He was, by his own admission, obsessed, but it wasn’t until 2006 that the machinist started to think about opening a brewery. The result was 2nd Shift, originally located in New Haven, Missouri. Crider named the first beer he released Art of Neurosis because it took him 30 iterations to fine-tune it. But his efforts paid off: The beer was roundly praised, and 2nd Shift was on the map. In 2016, Crider and his family left New Haven to open their current location — a 13,000-square-foot production facility and tasting room on the Hill (the neighborhood's first brewery). Crider’s beers have become known throughout the city and further afield due to his healthy appetite for experimentation, which creates beers that defy expectations and satisfy thirst. ROSALIND EARLY
ALPHA BREWING
4310 Fyler Avenue, 314-621-2337 alphabrewingcompany.com Not so long ago, breweries and bars might
have had a single sour or wild-fermented brew on offer. It’s still unusual to spot more than one on a menu. Alpha Brewing, which opened its Tower Grove South location in 2018, exceeds expectations in this regard. The brewery’s sours, currently six, include Apocrypha, a sour black ale aged in pinot noir barrels, and Passionfruit Funk, a sour blond ale brewed with passionfruit. For those without the taste for the slightly lip-puckering brews, Alpha offers a range of stouts, ales, premixed cocktails and hard seltzers, many brewed with citrus. In addition, Alpha serves great renditions of classic bar food such as burgers, wings and pretzels — and has an impressive, umbrella-and-picnic-table-strewn biergarten in which to enjoy all of the above. JESSICA ROGEN
BLUEWOOD BREWING
1821 Cherokee Street, 314-261-4079 bluewoodbrewing.com Bluewood Brewing and the embedded Burger 809 have a laid-back and welcoming vibe. The bartenders know their stuff and are incredibly willing to help you figure out what option, or what flight of options, to get. Plus, the space itself is both child and pet friendly; you can have a drink on the patio with your furry friend or watch your kiddo grab a board game
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Earthbound Beer.
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while you kick back. There are weekly trivia nights, live music and additional activities throughout the month. There is also a window to the brewmasters plying their craft, which gives the brewery experience an effortlessly cool vibe.
JENNA JONES
EARTHBOUND BEER
2724 Cherokee Street, 314-769-9576 earthboundbeer.com Earthbound Beer operates as a brewery, but it’s really a St. Louis landmark. Mosey down Cherokee Street, and it won’t be too long before you stumble upon it. The brewery’s building is more than 150 years old, with rumored wonders in its underground lagering cellars. Up top, the beer is just as spectacular as the building's history. With brews like Chicken and Waffles Blonde, Meteor IPA, Cookie Brown and more, everyone can find something. Earthbound is also a pillar of the community: Proceeds from some of the beers go to local organizations such as the Missouri Abortion Fund, PROMO and Circus Flora. There’s also the occasional pop-up from the Filipino BBQ specialists at the Fattened Caf. JENNA JONES
HEAVY RIFF BREWING COMPANY 6413 Clayton Avenue, no phone heavyriffbrewing.com
At Heavy Riff, the worlds of music and beer coalesce into an experience that simply rocks. The microbrewery in the heart of Dogtown serves up music-inspired brews to match its decor of guitars and music posters. On tap, you’ll find a wide selection of numbers on “the setlist.” A toasty brown ale called the Velvet Underbrown is hearty but not overwhelming. The sour Mamas and the Papayas beer boasts a satisfying tartness. Heavy Riff’s menu offers barbecue eats and smoked meats such as the smoked reuben — housemade corned beef, slowly cooked on hickory and cherry wood and served on marbled rye bread with Swiss cheese and house-ginned sauerkraut. Both the tap and food menus satisfy, and with Heavy Riff’s non-fussy, rock & roll atmosphere, it’s a good place to have a relaxed hang. MONICA OBRADOVIC
THE MODERN BREWERY 5231 Manchester Avenue, no phone modernbrewery.com
Modern Brewery President and CEO BAR GUIDE 2022 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 11
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Beamer Eisele studied brewing at Harvard. While some may be surprised that the university offers such a course of study, no one doubts that Eisele is a very knowledgeable brewmaster, as Modern Brewery has some of the most sought-after beers in the metro area and supplies beer to popular locations around town. Modern Brewery’s offerings include a salted-chocolate stout, a tangerine-tasting mimosa-style sour and its flagship IPA, Citrapolis. Modern Brewing recently opened a 6,000-squarefoot space in a garage between warehouses on Manchester Avenue. The brewery paused in-person dining during the pandemic, though, and is currently offering only to-go orders. BENJAMIN SIMON
NARROW GAUGE BREWING COMPANY
1595 North Highway 67, Florissant; 314-501-6108 narrowgaugestl.shop From its humble beginnings in the basement of the Florissant Italian restaurant Cugino’s, Narrow Gauge Brewing Company has grown into one of the area’s most respected craft breweries. Its IPAs, sours, stouts and numerous other styles have made Florissant a must-visit for beer aficionados — that’s reason in itself to stop by the north-county taproom, though having all that delicious Italian food located in the adjacent Cugino’s adds to the allure. With expanded capacity on the horizon (the owners secured a larger space just down the road from their current digs), this dark-horse brand is making sure its presence is known well beyond north county. CHERYL BAEHR
PERENNIAL ARTISAN ALES
Multiple locations including 8125 Michigan Avenue, 314-631-7300 perennialbeer.com The phrase “tiny but mighty” comes to mind when writing about small-batch brewery Perennial Artisan Ales, which continues to grow as the years go by. Opened in 2011, the brewery and tasting room added a 15-barrel brewhouse in 2016. Then, in 2020, Perennial partnered
Perennial Lockwood.
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with Olive + Oak to create Perennial on Lockwood, a restaurant with a top-notch beer list. Perennial focuses on the adventurous beer lover. The brewery’s Belgian- and American-style craft beers often incorporate unique ingredients that range from fruits to spices to wild yeast strains and result in batches that defy traditional categories. While the brewery focuses on small batches, the taproom has a wide range of beers available to be explored. JENNA JONES
ROCKWELL BEER COMPANY
Multiple locations including 1320 South Vandeventer Avenue, 314-256-1657 rockwellbeer.com Fun-and-approachable Rockwell Beer Co. is the lively brewery along South Vandeventer made out of shipping containers. If the weather is remotely pleasant, customers fill its beer garden. Newcomers to the craft-beer scene may initially feel overwhelmed by all its offerings, but Rockwell makes choosing easy. Its beer menu is divvied up into four main categories — hoppy; malty; light and crisp; or funky, fruity and tart. The brewery strives to have a fresh take on the craft, aiming for fun, not fussy. Its BAR GUIDE 2022 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 13
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second location in Francis Park is the picture of that ethos.
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SIDE PROJECT BREWING
Multiple locations including 7458 Manchester Road, Maplewood; no phone sideprojectbrewing.com Not simply one of the best craft breweries in the area, Side Project Brewing is considered by hardcore beer folks as the pinnacle of the brew universe anywhere; in 2019, Rate Beer named it the No. 2 brewer in the world. That’s right, the world. When you taste Cory King’s barrel-aged brews, you understand the acclaim. Forged from a background in fine dining, Side Project reflects King and his wife Karen’s passion for wine and Belgian-style beers; the brand began as a true “side project” when King was with the also-acclaimed Perennial Artisan Ales. Eventually, he and Karen took the leap and founded their own brewery, garnering legions of followers from far and wide over their last nine years in business. With a new outdoor tasting venue across the street from their original space, there are now more ways to experience what is arguably the area’s top craft brewery. CHERYL BAEHR
SIX MILE BRIDGE
11841 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights; 314-942-2211 sixmilebridgebeer.com When Six Mile Bridge founder Ryan Sherring shared a batch of his homebrew with a business associate back home in South Africa, he never thought it would lead to a brewery in the United States. Fast forward roughly a decade, and Sherring, together with his wife, Lindsay, now runs a growing operation that includes both a Maryland Heights brewpub and Botanica, a sister restaurant in Wildwood that incorporates Six Mile Bridge beers into a thoughtful menu balanced between upscale and casual. As good as the food is at both locations, Six Mile Bridge is fundamentally about the beer, which has garnered much acclaim.
The Coffee Maple Stout is a particular favorite. If you think summertime is too hot for such a beer, one sip will prove there is no season for something so delicious. CHERYL BAEHR
THIRD WHEEL BREWING
4008 I-70 North Outer Road, St. Peters; no phone thirdwheelbrewing.com Third Wheel Brewing has a lot of beer, including rare ones. There’s Ophelia’s Wit, for example, a Belgian witbier brewed with coriander, orange peel and rosemary. Or try Goomah, a stout with a creamy chocolate and dark caramel taste. Visitors can also sample the three Beers for a Cause. Proceeds go to support Ukraine (Brew For Ukraine, a wheat), the St. Louis Pink Boots Society (She Is Power, a Belgian IPA) and the LGBTQ community (Glitter and Be Gay, an Australian sparkling ale). Third Wheel’s St. Peters home opened in 2017 as the town’s first brewery. Inside, people will find an old-school feel with wooden chairs, wooden tables and wooden floors. BENJAMIN SIMON
WELLSPENT BREWING 2917 Olive Street, 314-696-2919 wellspentbeer.com
Kyle Kohlmorgen, head brewer and founder at Wellspent, started brewing beer in college. He founded Wellspent Brewing in 2017, but for a while, it looked like it might not last. In August 2019, Kohlmorgen closed shop and put everything up for sale. But with a new partner on board, Wellspent reopened in 2020, and thank goodness for that because the craft beers here aren’t to be missed. Kohlmorgen’s Baq 2 Baq, a 12 percent Belgian quadrupel aged in red-wine barrels, won a gold medal at the Festival of Wood & Barrel-Aged Beer. We also recommend I Choose Not to Run, a coffee stout made with Blueprint Coffee’s Tekton blend and a bit of barrel-aged stout. For those wanting something lighter, Wellspent also offers On the Bright Side, a tart, raspberry-infused wheat beer that has a touch of sea salt and is the perfect drink for a summer day. ROSALIND EARLY B A R G U I D E 2 0 2 2 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 15
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CLASSIC BREWERIES
—— — 4 HANDS BREWING CO.
1220 South Eighth Street, 314-436-1559 4handsbrewery.com Established in 2011 with a small tasting room adjacent to the brewery, 4 Hands has grown into a vast, two-level establishment. On the first floor, patrons can snag Peacemaker’s tasty bar food as well as a selection of the brewery’s offerings, including the classic Imperial Chocolate Milk Stout; Strange Stout, a collaboration with Strange Donuts; Vigilante, made with Mission Taco Joint; and more. Upstairs is the large, open tasting room, which has free Skee-Ball and other arcade games, as well as a rotating lineup of beer, cocktails, wine, cider and nonalcoholic drinks. The brewery has nine core beers but adds variety with standout seasonal releases such as Contact High, a hoppy wheat beer; Apricot Prussia, a Berliner Weisse; and Ill Repute, a pumpkin-pie stout. JESSICA ROGEN
ANHEUSER-BUSCH ST. LOUIS BREWERY 1200 Lynch Street, 314-577-2626 budweisertours.com
When you think beer in St. Louis, you think Anheuser-Busch. The largest brewing company in the world, Anheus-
er-Busch InBev maintains its U.S. regional headquarters here in town and serves up Budweiser, Becks, Michelob and Stella Artois to the masses. For a day full of beer served with a side of St. Louis history, visit the brewery on Lynch Street. You can sign up for a tour of the campus and see where all of the magic is made. Guides will walk you through the beer-making process, take you through the cellars and show you the Clydesdale paddock and stables. At the end of the tour, they hand you a cold beer (if you’re 21 or older, of course). You can also just pop into the biergarten for a cold one — it’s open between 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. each day of the week. JAIME LEES
CIVIL LIFE BREWING CO. 3714 Holt Avenue, no phone civil-life-online.square.site
Civil Life Brewing Company has been a St. Louis mainstay since Jake Hafner and Dylan Mosley opened it in 2011. And with a recent expansion, Civil Life has doubled the size of its outdoor patio, making it an even greater spot to sip some brews on warm nights. Aside from the brewery’s cozy atmosphere, regulars return to the south St. Louis pub for its crisp and roasty Schwarzbier — a cold-fermented black lager with notes of coffee and chocolate. Another must-try is Civil Life’s flagship beer, the
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American Brown, a medium-bodied beer with a satisfying blend of caramel, cocoa and coffee notes. Arguably even more iconic than its beers are Civil Life’s popular “Be Civil” yard signs. Featuring the brand’s mascot, a mustached gentleman in a bowler hat, the signs can be seen throughout the city, reminding even those who’ve never had the pleasure of sipping Civil Life’s beer to take it easy and spread civility. MONICA OBRADOVIC
SCHLAFLY
Multiple locations including 2100 Locust Street, 314-241-2337 schlafly.com When it opened in 1991, Schlafly became St. Louis’ first new brewpub since Prohibition, and effectively kicked off the area’s craft-beer revolution. Now an institution in its own right, Schlafly has expanded from a singular taproom on Locust to include Schlafly Bottleworks in Maplewood, Bankside Brewpub in St. Charles and Highland Square Brewpub in Highland, Illinois. Each place is a little different but Schlafly keeps them all connected to the community by hosting events such as Art Outside, an art fair for local and national artists and a chance for Schlafly to debut its new seasonal beers. JENNA JONES
URBAN CHESTNUT BREWING COMPANY
Multiple locations including 4465 Manchester Avenue, 314-222-0143 urbanchestnut.com Urban Chestnut started in 2011 as a collaboration between former Anheuser-Busch employees. Since then, it has turned into one of St. Louis’ most popular craft breweries, selling beers all over the country, and all over the world. Everything about Urban Chestnut feels like a cross between St. Louis and Europe. This is not surprising since brewmaster Florian Kuplent learned the brewing craft in Germany and even maintains an Urban Chestnut in Hallertau, Germany, near his hometown. In St. Louis, you can enjoy Urban Chestnut at either of its
Urban Chestnut Brewing Company.
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two St. Louis brewpubs: An outdoor biergarten in Midtown or a beer hall in the Grove where you can sip on an IPA while eating New York-style pizza and a currywurst. The perfect blend of American and German? We think we may have found it. BENJAMIN SIMON
O’FALLON BREWERY
45 Progress Parkway, Maryland Heights; 636-474-2337 ofallonbrewery.com If you want a delicious beer, look no further than O’Fallon Brewery. It makes all the beers. Want a beer that tastes like a cookie? Try O’Fallon’s Dad’s Oatmeal Cookie Stout. Appearing around the holidays, this fan favorite tastes exactly like a Dad’s oatmeal cookie with notes of cinnamon, caramel, oats and vanilla. Want a nonalcoholic THC-infused beer? Try the Mohi, a partnership with O’Fallon Brewery and Swade Cannabis. Want an ultra-local beer that reminds you of a St. Louis neighborhood? Head to the Hill or Soulard, where you can find O’Fallon brews specifically made for those neighborhoods. But also don’t miss heading to O’Fallon Brewery itself, where you can get the Smoked Porter, a dark beer that was named the best smoked beer in America. ROSALIND EARLY BAR GUIDE 2022 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 21
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Millpond Brewing and Incubator.
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COURTESY MILLPOND BREWING
BREWERIES — — — — WORTH — —
THE TRIP
HOPSKELLAR BREWING COMPANY 116 East Third Street, Waterloo, Illinois; 618-939-2337 hopskellar.com
Hopskellar is a lesson in perseverance. Located in downtown Waterloo, Illinois, the brewery opened in September 2016. By October, it was closed after a fire tore ruined the kitchen, wrecked the brewing equipment and even destroyed much of the dining room. Brewmaster and operating partner Matthew Schweizer was determined to rebuild. Within a year, the brewery was open again and bringing its Northern England-influenced ales back to Waterloo’s craft-beer scene. Among the offerings are a pale mild ale, Northern pale ale and a Northern English brown ale. Once you’ve had your fill of English-inspired beer, head around the corner to Stubborn German Brewing Company (119 South Main Street, Waterloo, Illinois; 618-504-2444, stubborngermanbrewing.com) for, you guessed it, German-style brews. ROSALIND EARLY
LOGBOAT BREWING COMPANY
504 Fay Street, Columbia, Missouri; 573-397-6786 logboatbrewing.com Friends and beer aficionados Judson Ball, Tyson Hunt and Andrew Sharp
broke ground on Logboat Brewing Company in 2013, and it soon became a Columbia, Missouri, institution. The beers, with whimsical can art, include a Missouri lager; a mild brown ale; and Stormin’ Norman golden ale, named after Norman Stewart, Mizzou’s winningest basketball coach. But the beer isn’t the only draw to this taproom and brewery. On a nice day, you can enjoy the Logboat Park, a grassy area with games. Ozark Mountain Biscuits is not far away and the smell often wafts over. Cold beer, outdoor games and the smell of baking bread? This place is definitely worth the roughly two-hour trip. ROSALIND EARLY
MILLPOND BREWING AND INCUBATOR
308 East Washington Street, Millstadt, Illinois; 618-476-9933 millpondbrewing.com If you like home brewing, then you must stop at Millpond Brewing and Incubator. Bryan Schubert started the business after spending nine years as a homebrewer himself. From that he, alongside his brother-in-law, developed an idea: to offer homebrewers the chance to sell their beer
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Old Bakery.
COURTESY OLD BAKERY
at Millpond (the incubator part). Don’t worry, you won’t be drinking beer from some stranger’s closet. The homebrewers use the Millpond system to scale up their production. Patrons get a chance to try one-of-a-kind beers in the former Shell-station-turned-brewery.
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OLD BAKERY BEER
400 Landmarks Boulevard, Alton, Illinois; 618-463-1470 oldbakerybeer.com After years of living in St. Louis and working at Urban Chestnut Brewing Company, James Rogalsky and his wife, Lauren Pattan, returned to their hometown of Alton, Illinois. They had one goal: start a microbrewery. They did, and now, Old Bakery is one of the most popular breweries in the St. Louis metro area. Located in a rehabilitated historical building that was a bakery in the late 1800s, Old Bakery features an open bierhall with a 50-foot-long centerpiece bar from the 100-year-old floor of a one-room school in Collinsville. Old Bakery prides itself on sustainability. It's
decked out with repurposed wood tables, LED lighting and a food-waste composting system. BENJAMIN SIMON
OLD BRIDGEVIEW BREWING
16 East Front Street, Washington, Missouri; no phone oldbridgeview.com Situated in Washington, Missouri’s quaint downtown near the waterfront, Old Bridgeview Brewing is an easy hour's drive from St. Louis. The community brewery has new beers every week, most made from locally sourced ingredients. Plus, Old Bridgeview regularly serves browns and IPAs on tap and has stouts for all seasons. A must-try is the Fraulein Hilda, a German-style Berliner Weisse that’s refreshing and tart, served with a housemade herb-and-fruit woodruff syrup to add some extra sweetness. Old Bridgeview is owned by three local homebrewers, and as you approach the bar to place your order, you’ll likely be greeted by one of them who can answer any questions you have. For customers who want something other than beer, Old
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Public House Brewing Company.
Bridgeview has kombucha on tap, oolong iced tea, hard apple cider and vodka seltzer. MONICA OBRADOVIC
PUBLIC HOUSE BREWING COMPANY 551 State Route B, St. James, Missouri; 573-261-3333 publichousebrewery.com
Public House’s bright beer cans are intriguing works of art. There’s the cream ale with a bear rocking out in headphones and sunglasses, or Among the Willows, which features a scene from an Old West shootout. À la René Magritte, the Samuel Clementine, a seasonal beer, features a man with an orange for a face. Bierleichen (which means beer corpse in German) features a blue zombie. It would be hard to top the colorful cans, but the brews inside manage to do just that. The cream ale is a perfection of the American craft-beer style. It’s a malt-forward beer with a delicious flaked maize aroma and golden color. Drink it in the spacious taproom, where you can also get treats like hummus tacos and jalapeño mac and cheese bites, or head out
ERIC GINNARD/PUBLIC HOUSE BREWING COMPANY
to the beautiful gardens, where Public House often hosts concerts in the warmer months. ROSALIND EARLY
SCRATCH BREWING COMPANY 264 Thompson Road, Ava, Illinois; 618-426-1415 scratchbeer.com
Dubbed America’s Coolest Microbrewery by Men’s Journal, Scratch Brewing Company is less a brewery than an examination of the interplay between beer and land. Drawing on the concept of terroir — a common factor when discussing wine or cheese — owners Aaron Kleindon and Marika Josephson's brews reflect the surrounding Shawnee National Forest, resulting in forage-focused brews that feel more like a brewing subculture than a method. Located about two hours from St. Louis on 75 wooded acres in southern Illinois, Scratch offers city dwellers a journey into an entirely different way of thinking about beer. CHERYL BAEHR
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FINALLY, A NONALCOHOLIC BEER YOU WANT TO DRINK Leave it to St. Louis, the ultimate beer town, to make NA beer taste good BY CHERYL BAEHR
BEFORE HE FOUNDED WellBeing Brewing Company, Jeff Stevens spent most of his career in advertising for national liquor brands. He traveled the world working in the beer-and-spirits industry and was always in bars, whether entertaining clients or just being social. There was one huge problem, however: Stevens doesn’t drink. “I quit drinking when I was 24, but I was always in a position where I was around people drinking,” Stevens explains. “I drank a lot of nonalcoholic beer because it doesn’t have caffeine [or] a lot of sugar — and it was OK. But as the craft-beer industry began to really take off, I asked myself why there wasn’t any craft nonalcoholic beer. I finally said, ‘I’m going to do this. I’m going to figure this out.’” For a non-drinker like Stevens, craft nonalcoholic beer seemed like a no-brainer considering the skyrocketing popularity of the alcohol-filled version. However, as Stevens began to research the void in the market, he came to an obvious realization: People who brew beer like drinking beer that contains alcohol. NA beer was an afterthought — something people brewed because they felt they had to, not because their hearts were in it. As 32
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a consequence, only the big brands did it, not the passionate craft brewers. Stevens, however, loved beer and lamented that his non-drinker status prevented him from enjoying it to its fullest capacity. He quickly found out that he was not alone. Not only was the NA category growing overseas, it was becoming apparent that, even in a beer-obsessed place like St. Louis, there was a need for such a product. “There are so many people who are not drinking — not necessarily all the time, but for a particular moment,” Stevens explains. Those consumers quickly found WellBeing, the NA craft-beer brand Stevens launched in January 2018. Unlike other NA brewers that remove alcohol from beer by stopping fermentation and boiling it off, WellBeing employs a high-tech method using equipment from Munich that eliminates the alcohol at room temperature after the beer is fully fermented. This results in nonalcoholic beer that tastes fully brewed — because it is. “If you taste a traditional nonalcoholic beer, it tastes like a watered-down lager or super sweet because the sugar doesn’t
Jeff Stevens of WellBeing Brewing Company.
ferment. It just tastes off,” Stevens explains. “Ours starts out as full-alcohol beer that could be packaged as such, but instead, we remove the alcohol at the very end. It has the right body.” Though WellBeing is Stevens’ brainchild, he relies on brewers at O’Fallon Brewery, as well as a new facility in Virginia Beach, Virginia, to bring his vision to life. WellBeing has also recently partnered with St. Louis craft-beer icon Schlafly to scale the brand as demand continues to increase. Steven credits his growth not only to those who want to solely consume nonalcoholic beer but also to those who want to alternate NA brews with those that contain alcohol, a concept he refers to as the “modern
JEN WEST
drinkers' flight.” He feels it dovetails with a cultural moment where the focus is less about over-imbibing and more about enjoying the drink itself. Plus, drinking a craft NA removes the awkwardness from group situations. “The thing about not drinking is that you are worried you are killing somebody’s buzz and feel bad,” he says. “But then they feel bad because they are worried they shouldn’t be drinking in front of you. [Beers like our Hellraiser say], ‘Hey, I’m not drinking, but I am still ready to party. We can go pool-hopping or whatever. I’m ready to blow off some steam, and if you want to get silly, I am here to get silly. I can just drive you home.’” BAR GUIDE 2022 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 33
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The Royale.
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BEER PLACES — — FOR — — FOOD LOVERS BRIDGE TAP HOUSE & WINE BAR 1004 Locust Street, 314-241-8141 thebridgestl.com
A narrow, two-story restaurant decorated with dark wood, willow chandeliers, an elegant bar and shelves filled with bottles, Bridge has some serious aesthetics. It’s hard to know what to mention first: its food or its beer selection. That’s because the downtown St. Louis spot was deliberately designed by restaurateur Dave Bailey to be the best of both worlds. There’s a rotating selection of more than 55 beers on tap plus more than 100 bottles, make-your-own beer flights and tap takeover events. A healthy selection of the beers on tap come from St. Louis brewers, which is in line with the restaurant’s focus on locally sourced ingredients. Some dishes there that always pair well with your favorite brew are the soft pretzels, succulent Mojo-roasted pork sandwich and the pasta — always housemade. JESSICA ROGEN
GOOD NEWS BREWING
Multiple locations including 330 Sonderen Street, O’Fallon; 636-294-6593 goodnewsbrewing.com On the outskirts of St. Louis sits
suburbia’s best-kept secret: Good News Brewing. Not only does the brewery have great beer, but the pizzas are worth a trip all by themselves: They’re wood-fired creations sent from above. Maybe you have a hankering for some barbecue or buffalo chicken or just a plain cheese pizza — Good News has all that and more. Beers include pale ales, coffee milk stouts and others. Hot tip: Each location has its own character and varying menu items and hours, so it’s wise to look up the location before you make the trek. JENNA JONES
PEEL WOOD FIRED PIZZA
Multiple locations including 208 South Meramec Avenue, Clayton; 314-696-2515 peelpizza.com At Peel, chefs Brandon Case and Patrick Thirion have created a “neo-Neapolitan” pizza, with a thin crust that’s crisped up in the wood-fired oven and topped with traditional ingredients — pepperoni, mozzarella — or more exotic combos, such as Creole shrimp or balsamic chicken. When Case and Thirion first opened Peel in Edwardsville, St. Louisans happily made the trek for the 11-inch pies. Then Peel expanded into O’Fallon, Illinois,
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Retreat Gastropub.
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and added a microbrewery. Finally in 2018, Peel came to Clayton with the biggest pizza parlor in the metro area, a 280-seater with a huge bar area, perfect for a casual after-work dinner with friends. And what goes better with pizza than a cold beer? The offerings rotate, but if you see it on the menu, grab Peel's Pinky and the Brain, a hoppy Belgian beer brewed with pink guava fruit. We love it with the maple bourbon pork pizza or the apple Gorgonzola salad. ROSALIND EARLY
RETREAT GASTROPUB 6 North Sarah Street, 314-261-4497 retreatgastropub.com
A Central West End destination since 2015, Retreat Gastropub is perfect for date night or a last-minute meetup with your friends — it’s stylishly rustic without trying too hard and never less
than approachable. The place may be best loved for its cocktails, which first brought to prominence the mixology magic of Tim Wiggins (now known for Yellowbelly and Lazy Tiger, too). But Retreat is a true multi-tasker, managing to combine Wiggins’ drinks with a stellar food menu and also, yes, a great beer list. Ten rotating taps offer a manageable roster that still covers quite a bit of ground — and with a menu of expertly executed new American classics ranging from smoked salmon dip to strip steak, there’s something good to eat with each one. Drafts are just $5 during happy hour. SARAH FENSKE
THE ROYALE FOOD & SPIRITS
3132 South Kingshighway Boulevard, 314-772-3600 theroyale.com For a well-rounded evening, you won’t find a more accommodating place on the south BAR GUIDE 2022 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 39
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Square One Brewery.
side than the Royale. Start your visit with a breezy, relaxed dinner in the Royale’s courtyard — one of the best in St. Louis. The menu includes vegetarian and vegan options that are flavorful and filling. House favorites such as the fish tacos and the smashed burgers get all of the attention, but the sides such as the Brussels sprouts salad or Asian garden salad are outstanding, too. After dinner you can keep the party going with drinks. The Royale has locally inspired classic cocktails, including a Lafayette sidecar, as well as a wide selection of beers. If a simple Busch Light is what you seek, they have that. But if you want deep Belgians or fruity ciders, they have that, too. The teetotalers can also find NA beers and mocktails on offer. Ask the servers or bartenders, and they will probably be eager to introduce you to new beers from local favorites like Perennial Artisan Ales. JAIME LEES
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SQUARE ONE BREWERY 1727 Park Avenue, 314-231-2537 squareonebrewery.com
For 16 years, and through any number of changes to the neighborhood, Square One Brewery has been Lafayette Square’s go-to brewpub. That this mainstay also includes a distillery is just the bourbon shot on top. Square One offers a dozen of its own beers, which range from an Irish stout to the Park Avenue Pale Ale, its homegrown take on an Americanized pale ale, made with Cascade hops. It also boasts one of the best patios in town, a leafy, brick-lined courtyard where you, your neighbors, their kids and even their dogs can dine al fresco alongside a gently bubbling fountain. As night falls, the place to be is the warmly lit front room: Try to score a seat at the impressive wood bar or a nearby booth. SARAH FENSKE BAR GUIDE 2022 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 41
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BEER BARS
21ST STREET BREWERS BAR 2017 Chouteau Avenue, 314-241-6969 21stbrew.com
Part of Paul and Wendy Hamilton’s empire on the edge of Lafayette Square, 21st Street Brewers Bar fills the patio and basement of the building better known as the home of Vin de Set and PW Pizza. But this near-hidden gem deserves wider acclaim. With 50 beers on tap and another 80 offered by the bottle, the cozy cellar bar has something for everyone — and that includes wine drinkers (there’s a short roster of basics by the glass) and even non-drinkers (the food is genuinely good and you can order from PW’s menu of pub grub and pizza). Friendly service, an array of seating options (including some couches) and later hours than anywhere in the Square make this a nightcap destination. SARAH FENSKE
AMSTERDAM TAVERN
3175 Morgan Ford Road, 314-772-8224 amsterdamtavern.com They say St. Louis is a soccer city, and nowhere is that more apparent than at Amsterdam Tavern. Self-dubbed the “Home of the Beautiful Game,” Amster-
dam Tavern is St. Louis’ go-to bar to watch soccer games. There are soccer jerseys, flags, scarves and even a picture of Bob Marley wearing a soccer jersey covering the walls. But don’t let this distract you: The Amsterdam Tavern wouldn’t be a European-style bar without some good beer. The diverse beer selection includes 17 beers on tap and more than 30 can and bottle beers, including local favorites such as Schafly’s Dry Hop APA and Logboat Brewing’s Snapper IPA. BENJAMIN SIMON
THE CROW’S NEST
7336 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-781-0989 eatcrowstl.com Over the years, Maplewood hot spot the Crow’s Nest has increasingly made its identity that of a restaurant first and a bar second, with customers more likely to seek out its delicious poutine, top-notch sandwiches and, of course, its ever-popular Metal Brunch than the suds it has on offer. That’s all well and good, but it overlooks one crucial detail: The Crow’s Nest is one of only a small handful of bars to carry Trooper in the St. Louis area. Brought to you by legendary new wave of British heavy metal act Iron Maiden, the beer sports the band’s iconic mascot Eddie and B A R G U I D E 2 0 2 2 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 47
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Gezellig.
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brings the full-bodied taste of a deep golden ale with a side of ass-kicking heavy metal — plenty of reason for hopheads and metalheads alike to make the Crow’s Nest a go-to drinking destination. DANIEL HILL
GEZELLIG
4191 Manchester Avenue, no phone gezelligstl.com At any time, you can pop onto the Gezellig Tap House & Bottleshop’s website for a preview of what’s on tap and how full the casks are. That’s cool, but it’s nothing compared to the sight of Gezellig’s giant, wall-to-wall coolers filled with brews from around the world. Patrons serve themselves and can drink in-house or make a four or six pack to take home. Those enjoying beverages on location can supplement their brews with a slice from Pie Guy Pizza. Gezellig is an untranslatable Dutch word that roughly equates to cozy, comfortable and enjoyable, and though the bar’s large, open and industrial space isn’t exactly cozy, Gezellig is undeniably a welcoming spot to find a previously unknown beer. JESSICA ROGEN
HAIR OF THE DOG
1212 Washington Avenue, 314-241-3644 facebook.com/hairofthedogbarstl A Washington Avenue mainstay, Hair of the Dog is where to go when you’re trying to get away from the bros and bachelorette parties that sometimes frequent Washington Avenue — or when you just want a really good beer. Hair of the Dog has 250 of them, 43 of those on tap. Plus, this no-frills place is easy on the wallet with a Wednesday happy hour and a wide selection of affordable drafts and bottles. Still not sold? Where else can you see graffiti artist Peat Wolleager’s work honoring beloved “Dead Fat Comedians”? ROSALIND EARLY
INTERNATIONAL TAP HOUSE
Multiple locations including 1711 South Ninth Street, 314-621-4333 internationaltaphouse.com Now with two locations, iTAP has one of the best beer selections in all the city. The St. Bernardus ABT 12 from Belgium is a reliable place to start if you find the selection overwhelming. iTAP’s bottle BAR GUIDE 2022 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 49
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Pop's Blue Moon.
game is even more extensive. Standouts include Xingu, a Brazilian black lager, and Weihenstephaner, a light bready malt from Germany that has been brewed the same way since the year 1040. iTAP also has an extensive nonalcoholic selection for the teetotaler in the group. The array of big screens tuned to the Cards or Blues is the perfect way for your eyes to pass the time while your taste buds are out trotting the globe. RYAN KRULL
POP’S BLUE MOON
5249 Pattison Avenue, 314-776-4200 popsbluemoon.com If you’re new to sober life but want to find a place where you can still hang out with your drinking friends, the best option for you is Pop’s Blue Moon. This bar on the north side of the Hill neighborhood serves all people, whether they’re drinking alcohol or not. In addition to having a full bar with a robust liquor and beer selection, Pop’s Blue Moon also offers nonalcoholic beers so you can crack open a cold one right alongside your buddies. There's
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even a selection of canned CBD drinks available, in case you don’t do alcohol but you’re “California sober.” So if you’re thinking about quitting but don’t want to miss out on the socialization, make Pop’s Blue Moon your new home base. JAIME LEES
SOHA BAR & GRILL
2605 Hampton Avenue, 314-802-7877 sohabarandgrill.com You’ll find 40 beers on tap and an even wider selection of canned beers at SOHA Bar & Grill. The bar welcomes patrons with a tavern-like atmosphere that includes a fireplace and flat screens tuned to sports. Between drinks, tinker with SOHA’s various games including Skee-Ball and arcade basketball. The kitchen serves up typical yet tasty bar food, with options ranging from pizzas and salads to burgers and fried pickles. Situated right next to the Hampton exit off Highway 44, SOHA isn’t too far from anywhere, and the bar-and-grill’s friendly service makes it a great south-city watering hole to have a relaxed weeknight beer. MONICA OBRADOVIC
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CBGB.
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CHEAP BEER BARS — — — — —
BJ’S BAR
184 West Washington Street, Florissant; 314-837-7783 bjsbarpizzaflorissant.com People around Florissant know BJ’s Bar for a variety of reasons: its outstanding, Provel-free version of St. Louis-style pizza; its odd-shaped corner building; the smokers outside pumping on overdrive during the municipality’s Valley of Flowers festival. But it’s the vintage, light-up Stag sign that hangs prominently over what was likely the front door at one point in time that shows that, ultimately, BJ’s is an unpretentious, beer-focused watering hole. The quintessential dive bar has served as a place for blue-collar Florissant natives to belly up for decades; popularized by its large and small-sized Mason jars of icy-cold domestic brews, this is not a place where you ask to see a craft-beer list. Such beverages pair poorly with the Bob Seger blaring on from the jukebox in the back anyway. CHERYL BAEHR
THE CAT’S MEOW
2600 South 11th Street, 314-766-8617 No website Here in St. Louis, we love a no-frills bar,
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and the Cat’s Meow is offering exactly zero frills. There’s an internet jukebox on the premises and the toilets flush, but that’s about all you’re going to get when it comes to amenities in this small Soulard watering hole. At the Cat’s Meow, the tables are nothing special, the floors are dingy and the decor is a hodgepodge of crap, kitsch and Mardi Gras leftovers. But do you know what they do have? Good vibes and cheap beers in abundance. The people there are friendly, and if you’re drinking alone, you won’t have any problem finding someone to split a bucket of beer with in this bar. And if you’re not scared of mosquitoes or the occasional opossum, take that bucket out to the back patio for a nice night of Soulard drinking under the stars. JAIME LEES
CBGB
3163 South Grand Boulevard, no phone No website Named after the famed New York City establishment where iconic acts like the Ramones and Patti Smith got their start, South Grand dive-bar mainstay CBGB carries on the punk ethos even after its namesake burned out long ago. The patio B A R G U I D E 2 0 2 2 | R I V E R F R O N T T I M E S 57
America’s #1 Comedy Club
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PURCHASE TICKETS ONLINE AT STLOUISFUNNYBONE.COM 58
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Stella Stella Blues.Blues.
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are only $1.25.$1.25. EvenEven betterbetter than than the cheap the cheap facing facing Grand Grand is theisbest the best real estate real estate in thein theare only drinks is theisbar’s the bar’s openopen concept. concept. BuiltBuilt in a in a city on citycertain on certain nights. nights. The men’s The men’s room,room, drinks former former auto-repair auto-repair garage, garage, the Gravois the Gravois which which has been has been known known not tonot lock, to lock, side theofestablishment the establishment opens opens onto onto the the features features two toilets two toilets squaring squaring off against off against side of street. When When the breeze the breeze comes comes through through one another. one another. The drinks The drinks are cheap. are cheap. The The street. you’llyou’ll feel like feelD.B. like himself, D.B. himself, soaring soaring in thein the only only food food on offer on offer are small are small bagsbags of of clouds. clouds. pretzels pretzels and Fritos, and Fritos, and aand fewaother few other RYANRYAN KRULL KRULL snacks. snacks. TheyThey do have do have an NA anoption, NA option, which which appropriately appropriately tastes tastes like ass. like The ass. The whole whole placeplace smells smells like smoke. like smoke. Don’tDon’t 1530 East 1530Fourth East Fourth Street,Street, Alton,Alton, Illinois; Illinois; 618-462-5532 618-462-5532 bringbring your your mommom and dad and unless dad unless your your fasteddiesbonair.com fasteddiesbonair.com mommom and dad and are dadIggy are Iggy Pop. Pop. RYANRYAN KRULL KRULL Fast Fast Eddie’s Eddie’s Bon Air BonisAir a regional is a regional favorite favorite known known for good for good timestimes and great and great eats. eats. The The AltonAlton institution institution serves serves up live up music live music 6109 Gravois 6109 Gravois Avenue, Avenue, 314-499-7119 314-499-7119 and delicious and delicious food,food, with with people people flocking flocking dbcoopers.com dbcoopers.com to trytotheir try their cheap cheap burgers burgers and the andfamous the famous Hot Chick Hot Chick On-AOn-A Stick.Stick. It’s the It’skind the kind of of For decades For decades now, now, adventurers adventurers havehave placeplace meant meant for the formanner the manner of day-drinkof day-drinkscoured scoured the American the American Northwest Northwest in in ing wherein you devote you devote the entire the entire time time search search of theofmillions the millions that athat man a man known known ing wherein the sun theis sun in is theinsky theto sky living to living at Fast at Fast as D.B. as Cooper D.B. Cooper had with had with him when him when he he Eddie’s Eddie’s and taking and taking in whatever in whatever comes comes jettisoned jettisoned himself himself fromfrom an airplane an airplane way. way. But cheap But cheap beer beer is what is what builtbuilt somewhere somewhere over over Washington Washington state.state. TheyThey your your this place, and cheap and cheap beer beer is what is what keepskeeps say asay penny a penny savedsaved is a penny is a penny earned, earned, so so this place, it going. It first It opened first opened in 1921 in 1921 as “Bon as “Bon instead instead of getting of getting the skyjacker's the skyjacker's money, money, it going. — a bar — aset barup setbyupAnheuser-Busch. by Anheuser-Busch. just head just head to DBtoCooper’s DB Cooper’s Safe Safe House House and and Air” Air” Sholar Sholar Sr. (a.k.a. Sr. (a.k.a. “Fast“Fast Eddie”) Eddie”) scorescore somesome incredibly incredibly cheap cheap drinks. drinks. As As EddieEddie bought it in 1981 it in 1981 and cranked and cranked up the up the the massive the massive sign sign outside outside attests, attests, the beers the beersbought
FASTFAST EDDIE’S EDDIE’S BONBON AIR AIR
DB COOPER’S DB COOPER’S SAFESAFE HOUSE HOUSE
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Trophy Room.
party, and it’s been expanding ever since. The bar now serves half a million customers each year who drink over 50,000 cases of beer. JAIME LEES
THE HEAVY ANCHOR
5226 Gravois Avenue, 314-352-5226 theheavyanchor.com The Heavy Anchor doubles as a bar and music venue, and it’s never immediately clear what version of the south-city dive bar you’ll get. Known to host a rowdy concert or two, the venue’s stage has welcomed innumerable local music acts in addition to comedy open mics every Monday. Other weekday festivities include movie nights and karaoke. But one constant at the Heavy Anchor is its cheap beer: You’ll pay as little as $3.50 for brews of the Bud Light, Busch, PBR and Stag varieties. The two most expensive drinks on the menu are a sazerac cocktail and a pale ale by Modern Brewery, each
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priced at $9. You’ll find local brews on tap, as well as such hometown munchies as Dogtown Pizza and Billy Goat chips. On the menu you’ll also find nonalcoholic and CBD offerings such as Mighty Kind’s line of seltzers. The Heavy Anchor caters well to the indie and punk crowd, but only those who are 21 and older can enter. MONICA OBRADOVIC
JUST BILL’S
2543 Woodson Road, Overland; 314-427-2999 No website North county positively overflows with divey drinking holes, much like a draft beer with too much head, but for our (dwindling) money, there’s just no bar in town that can compete with the rock-bottom prices at Just Bill’s. The Overland establishment isn’t fancy by any means, but for the bourbon-and-Busch-beer set that dominates its clientele, there’s nowhere better. Indeed, a thirsty patron BAR GUIDE 2022 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 61
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The Silver Balllroom. The Silver Balllroom.
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THETHE SILVER BALLROOM SILVER BALLROOM
can can slapslap a five down on the bar bar a five down on weathered the weathered andand receive a bottle and and a shot in return, receive a bottle a shot in return, 4701 Morgan Ford Road, 314-832-9223 4701 Morgan Ford Road, 314-832-9223 withwith enough money left over to give the the enough money left over to give bartender a well-deserved tip. Just Bill’sBill’s thesilverballroom.com thesilverballroom.com bartender a well-deserved tip. Just owner Robin FieldField frequently explains Silver Ballroom’s “Retox Center” and and owner Robin frequently explains The The Silver Ballroom’s “Retox Center” thatthat the spot is hardly a money-making staffstaff of “Enablers” havehave beenbeen the spot is hardly a money-making dedicated dedicated of “Enablers” endeavor — he—makes his living through thirsty denizens of St.ofLouis’ endeavor he makes his living through keeping keeping thirsty denizens St. Louis’ a day job elsewhere — but the the BevoBevo Mill Mill neighborhood quenched for for a day job elsewhere — he butsays he says neighborhood quenched sense of community that comes through thanthan a decade now by adhering to to sense of community that comes through moremore a decade now by adhering keeping his prices as low the three Ps: punk rock,rock, pinball and PBR. keeping his prices as as lowpossible as possible the three Ps: punk pinball and PBR. more thanthan makes it allitworthwhile. On On Sure, the bar has a menu of specialty more makes all worthwhile. Sure, the bar has a menu of specialty thatthat point, his grateful customers gladly and fancier drinks on offer, but but point, his grateful customers gladly cocktails cocktails and fancier drinks on offer, agree. DANIEL HILL those looking to wet their whistles for agree. DANIEL HILL those looking to wet their whistlesasfor as littlelittle money as possible knowknow that that theirtheir money as possible BAR GUIDE 2022 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 63
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best bet is to plunk down $3 for a tallboy of Pabst (or Stag, Busch or Busch Lite). And there are few bars in town with better options for spending the pennies you’ve managed to pinch in the process — with its expertly curated jukebox, plethora of pinball machines and, of course, the astoundingly delicious Korean food of in-house eatery Tiny Chef, the Silver Ballroom makes a strong case that the cheapest play is indeed the best one. DANIEL HILL
STELLA BLUES
3269 Morgan Ford Road, 314-762-0144 No website Stella Blues is a total gem tucked away in a corner of Tower Grove South. Named after the final track on the first side of a 1973 Grateful Dead album, this neighborhood bar is definitely worth making a special trip. The drinks are reasonably priced, the bartenders are friendly and the vibes are great all around. In addition to the expert bar service, Stella Blues also offers Korean American fusion BBQ. Kyochon-style chicken wings and a torpedo sandwich with bulgogi beef are two of the standout offerings. When the weather is nice, it’s hard to beat the back patio, which is sequestered from the traffic on Morgan Ford, giving it the feel of a south-city backyard hang. It’s a great place to spend a night out with friends or to go make some new pals — strangers stop strangers just to shake their hands. RYAN KRULL
TROPHY ROOM
5099 Arsenal Street, 314-664-4810 facebook.com/trophyroomstl There’s nothing particularly fancy about the Trophy Room. A longstanding south-city establishment parked at the corner of Brannon Avenue and Arsenal Street, the unassuming sports bar has the usual amenities: dartboards, pool tables, a decent patio and more A-B products than you can shake a stick at. But in its simplicity lies its magic — and its danger. With its low prices and exceptionally thirsty clientele, the Trophy Room is uniquely able to launch
its customers into a state of delirious intoxication before they even know what hit 'em. One minute you’re staring idly at the Keno numbers, the next you’re surrounded by a boisterous bar full of cops and criminals in equal parts, all downing suds like water and having an unforgettable night that no one will remember the following day. Handle with care. DANIEL HILL
THE WAITING ROOM
10419 St Charles Rock Road, St. Ann; 314-890-8333 waitingroombar.com In the Year of Our Lord 2022, when nearly all transactions take place via microchips and satellites, the concept of cash can feel somewhat old-timey — and the notion of small, metal discs one trades for goods and services even doubly so. But your change is welcomed at the Waiting Room. That’s in part due to the St. Ann bar’s selection of pinball machines, of course, but also due to its low prices, which make it plenty possible to pay for your purchase with pennies. But it’s not just Stag and Busch on offer here. Part of the Waiting Room’s mission is to support local businesses, and in keeping, the bar keeps a rotating stock of six local craft beers on tap — meaning even the frugal can imbibe with good taste at the forefront. DANIEL HILL
WHALEN’S BAR & RESTAURANT 3837 St. Anns Lane, Normandy; 314-385-0829 No website
If you’re looking for a cheap brew on the north side, head to Whalen's without delay. Tucked in the crook between Florissant Road and St. Anns Lane in Normandy, Whalen’s offers pretty much any domestic beer at a reasonable price: $2.75 for longnecks (no cans) during happy hour (3 to 6 p.m.) or $4.25 otherwise. A true neighborhood and family bar, Whalen’s comes alive each night as the regulars drop in for a brew, a bite of its Irish and American fare or Saturday night karaoke. You know stopping in is going to be a good time upon hearing the bar’s unofficial slogan: “We’re Whalen’s, damnit.” JESSICA ROGEN BAR GUIDE 2022 | RIVERFRONT TIMES 65
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