Fast Fashion Midterm by eujpark

FAST FASHION And Its Effects on the Environment + Workers

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Eujin Park

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ABSTRACT Fast Fashion promotes the idea of recreating trendy pieces from the runway in a short amount of time, with cheap quality fabrics. This produces a cycle of bringing the newest styles into retail stores for consumers to buy, then when the trend is over these items get discarded or worn out due to the material. The overproduction and consumption of clothing has made the fashion industry the second largest polluter. Although the toll on our environment is a key issue, the movement for sustainable fashion emerged after the Rana Plaza in Bangladesh, a clothing manufacturing complex, collapsed in 2013. Over 1,000 garment workers were killed which lead to the reevaluation of these dangerous and oppressive environments.

TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction

Introduction

Problem + Purpose Statement

Research Methodology

Importance of Study

Research Findings

Preliminary Research Assumptions

Environment, Users + Beneficiaries

Hypotheses + Solution

Personas

Definition of Terms

‘Day in the Life’ Scenarios

Project Scope/Parameters

Panel of Experts

Timeline

PERT Chart

Conclusion

Survey Final Hypothesis Conclusion

Introduction

Survey

Proposed Solution + Rationale

Panel of Experts Bio

Inspirations, Design Attributes + Design Drivers

Bibliography

Preliminary Ideas Deliverables Comparative Analysis Mapping Matrix Storyboard Conclusion

CHAPTER ONE Area of Study

Due to toxic textile dyes, excess clothing fabrics and water waste, it is the second largest polluter in the world. Not only does fast fashion affect the environment, it violates many human rights issues pertaining to the garment workers in manufacturing factories/warehouses.

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Fast Fashion is a business model where high fashion, trendy clothing are replicated then mass produced at low costs and expedited rates.

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INTRODUCTION

PROBLEM STATEMENT Fast Fashion is the second largest polluter in the world due to toxic textile dyes, excess clothing fabrics, and water waste.

PURPOSE STATEMENT The purpose of this study is to create a social awareness campaign about the negative impact of fast fashion on our environment and garment workers.

IMPORTANCE OF STUDY The fashion industry produces surplus amounts of fabrics and dyes which ultimately end up as waste; this makes the effects of fast fashion the second largest polluter in the world. In addition, many garment workers are over–worked, treated poorly and underpaid in toxic factories. This study will address the urging matter of ‘slowing down’ fast fashion companies and demonstrate alternatives to sustainable shopping.

PRELIMINARY RESEARCH For the beginning stages, secondary research was used to gather data and information about the topic; this includes articles, research papers and websites. This provided a deeper insight on the magnitude of how fast fashion effects the environment and garment workers.

“Today, the United States makes only 2 percent of the clothing its consumers purchase — in 1990, it was 50 percent” (Cline, 2012)

“...in order to be profitable in the industry, fashion apparel retailers need to take the ‘speed to market’ approach to capitalize on fashion that is not in the stores of their competitors” (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010) “Wages are extremely low in countries like Bangladesh, where the average garment worker earns the equivalent of $38 per month” (Drennan, 2015)

ASSUMPTIONS Some assumptions made about the topic of fast fashion in the preliminary research stage are:

1. Many individuals may not be well informed about the negative impacts of fast fashion. 2. Consumers might not know of many alternative options for shopping sustainably. 3. Awareness about fast fashion can inspire people to shop consciously and urge companies to shift towards sustainability.

HYPOTHESES Three hypotheses derived from the assumptions and preliminary research stage.

Illuminating information about the harmful effects of fast fashion will provide more knowledge on the industry.

Knowing companies that sell ethical clothing alternatives will encourage consumers to think about more sustainable shopping.

Spreading awareness about fast fashion can urge companies to shift towards more ethical manufacturing and textile solutions.

DEFINITIONS/TERMS

Definitions provided by Oxford Languages and Solene Rauturier from Good On You

Common terms used throughout the research in relation to fast fashion.

Carbon Footprint: The total amount of greenhouse gases (including carbon dioxide and methane) that are generated by our actions Ethical: Relating to moral principles or the branch of knowledge dealing with these topics Fast Fashion: Inexpensive clothing produced rapidly by mass-market retailers in response to the latest trends Greenwashing: The use of marketing to portray an organization’s products, activities, or policies as environmentally friendly when they are not Microplastics/Microfibres: Plastic particles smaller than 5mm; they are found in synthetic clothes Organic: Raw materials that are not genetically modified (GM), and have been grown without any chemical pesticides and insecticides Rana Plaza: A clothing manufacturing complex in Bangladesh that collapsed in 2013, killing over 1,000 workers Second–Hand: Refers to clothes that have had a previous owner and that were donated or resold Sustainability: The ability to be maintained at a certain rate or level Textiles: Type of woven cloth or knit and is related to weaving Transparency: The practice of openly sharing information about how, where, and by whom a product was made Upcycle: A process that reuses wasted materials or discarded objects to create a product of higher quality or value to the original

PROJECT SCOPE/PARAMETERS This lists the work required to present the final deliverable along with other parameters.

1. Understanding the content and background of fast fashion by reading articles/journals from online databases 2. Gain insight from experts in the field in regards to the information and feedback on the process 3. Send out a survey to receive data from various individuals as potential consumers 4. Time constraints can restrain the amount of research or content delivered; Design solution will consist of deliverables such as a poster, social media posts, and various marketing merchandise 5. COVID–19 pandemic limits various group settings & large events

“93% of brands surveyed by the Fashion Checker aren’t paying garment workers a living wage” (Fashion Checker, 2020)

TIMELINE 17 week span timeline of the research project.

WK 01

WK 02

WK 03

WK 04

• Personal Introduction Post on Blogger • Review Past 505 Research Reports and Journal Blogs • Complete Quiz 1

• Comment on 6 Different Blog Posts • Draft 3 Research Project Topics w/ Problem + Purpose Statements • Complete Quiz 2

• Problem + Purpose Statement w/ Assets • Complete Quiz 3

• “Day in the Life” Persona Scenario (Part A) • Complete Quiz 4

WK 05

WK 06

WK 07

WK 08

• “Day in the Life” Persona Scenario (Part B) • 10 Part Research Proposal Outline • Upload Survey Link • Create Timeline

• PERT Chart, Comparative Studies, Bibliography • Abstract Draft

• Midterm Presentation • Polish Midterm Report

• Midterm Report Due • Preliminary Concept for Design Solution • Feedback from Experts

WK 09

WK 10

WK 11

WK 12

• Spring Break

• Design Solution Development + Iterations

• Design Solution Development + Iterations • Feedback from Experts

• Revise Designs for Prototype/Mockups • Draft + Iterate Poster

WK 13

WK 14

WK 15

• Work on Design Report • Work on Poster

• Work on Design Report • Work on Poster • Prototype/Mockups

• Polish Design Solution • Polish Presentation • Feedback from Experts

WK 16

WK 17

• Final Presentation

• Final Report Due • Final Project Poster Due • Final Solution Due

“The fashion industry produces 10% of all humanity’s carbon emissions and is the second–largest consumer of the world’s water supply” (McFall–Johnsen, 2020)

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CONCLUSION This chapter introduces the topic of fast fashion and states the problem + purpose statement of the research; it was made known that the effects of fast fashion makes it the second largest polluter in the world. In addtion to the negative environmental impacts, the fashion industry treats their garment workers poorly and overworked in toxic buildings. The three hypotheses suggested are the preliminary statements that tie in with the solution of creating an awareness campaign about fast fashion. With further research, the hypotheses will be narrowed down to one, and confirm/deny the assumptions made. Chapter 2 will investigate the topic further with research methodologies/findings, personas/users, and reveal the collected data used for this study.

Photo Credits: jesadaphorn

CHAPTER TWO Research

By developing a deeper understanding of the topic and consumers, it will aid in finalizing one final hypothesis for the research project.

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Chapter Two consists of the various research methodologies used to gather data. This includes both primary and secondary research findings through online databases, surveys, charts and expert feedback/guidance.

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INTRODUCTION

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RESEARCH METHODOLOGY The procedures and techniques used throughout the process of research.

Online Databases

Personas/Scenarios

Panel of Experts

Information sourced from various articles, journals, books and websites

Fictional scenarios and people created to empathize and understand the users/consumers

Professionals and experts related to the topic that gave feedback and guidance for the overall project

Survey

Charts/Diagrams

Storyboards

Sent to various individuals to gather data on personal decision making and shopping habits

Mapping matrix & comparative analysis to assist in evaluating the existing campaigns on fast fashion

Visual panel of sketches to view how an individual might interact with or benefit from the solution

RESEARCH FINDINGS Further information on fast fashion sourced from primary and secondary research.

Negative Impacts of Fast Fashion • Human Rights Violation

• Water Pollution

• Resource Depletion

• Animal Cruelty

• Climate Change

• Air Pollution

• Food Insecurity Photo Credits: EKO Energy

“A 2017 report from the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) estimated that 35% of all microplastics — very small pieces of plastic that never biodegrade — in the ocean came from the laundering of synthetic textiles like polyester” (McFall–Johnsen, 2020) “The vast majority of the people who make our clothes are not paid enough to fulfill their basic needs, yet only 27% of big brands disclose their approach to living wages for workers in the supply chain” (Fashion Revolution, 2021)

ENVIRONMENT/USERS/BENEFICIARIES The environment refers to the setting/context of where the deliverable would be utilized. The users and beneficiaries are the individuals who use or consume the product and people who benefit from it.

Environment

Users/Beneficiaries

• Fashion Companies + Stores

• Fashion Designers + Industry

• Fashion Campaign + Press

• Fashion Consumers + Influencers

• Garment Factories/Warehouses

• Environmental Activists

• Design Meetings + Production

• Sustainable Organizations

• Social Media Platforms

• Celebrities

PERSONAS

1 = Easy to accomplish 5 = Difficult to accomplish

These are six fictional identities created based on the research to represent potential users or consumers; personas assist in understanding the users’ experiences, needs, etc.

Vision

Hearing

Mobility

Grasp

Balance

Strength

Memory

Attention

Sasha

Hiro

Sasha is a free–spirited 23 year old who works as a model for smaller clothing companies. Currently, she resides in Los Angeles to pursue her modeling career but is originally from Brooklyn, NY. She is inspired by the 70’s for its retro, funk aesthetics and loves being out in the city. Sasha is extremely social and enjoys being around people and anything creative. Being in the fashion industry, she is constantly around fast fashion retailers and has learned more information on related topics which sparked her interest in becoming an advocate for sustainable clothing.

Hiro is a San Francisco, CA resident who travels frequently back and forth to Japan, his hometown. He is a 37 year old CEO + Creative Director for his own clothing brand that incorporates Japanese influence into Western style clothing. Hiro graduated with a Bachelor’s in Communication Design, then went back to school for a Master’s in Menswear Fashion. His brand promotes ethical manufacturing and only uses sustainable materials. In his free time, Hiro likes to ride his bike, watch cultural movies and sketch anything that comes to mind.

PERSONAS

1 = Easy to accomplish 5 = Difficult to accomplish

continued

Vision

Hearing

Mobility

Grasp

Balance

Strength

Memory

Attention

Danielle

Mark

Danielle is a 17 year old social media influencer who focuses on fashion, beauty and lifestyle content. She is a senior at her high school and doesn’t plan on going to college right away. She wants to focus on her media content and move out to San Francisco, CA from her hometown in Portland, OR. Some hobbies she enjoys are thrifting for vintage pieces, taking photos with her film camera and styling outfits. Due to her mom being an environmentalist and activist, Danielle has always been conscious about protecting our Earth and reducing her carbon footprint.

Mark is a 54 year old, happily married to his husband and has a daughter and son. He studied and started his work as an environmental engineer, having a knack for logical and problem solving skills. After years of that profession, Mark gained an interest for industrial design which benefited his creative process in manufacturing and producing products. Aside from work, he loves spending time with family, reading books and trying new restaurants. He loves to learn about anything and is very open–minded to all types of topics and conversation.

PERSONAS

1 = Easy to accomplish 5 = Difficult to accomplish

continued

Vision

Hearing

Mobility

Grasp

Balance

Strength

Memory

Attention

Julia

Connor

Julia is a kind–hearted, environmental activist who was born and raised in San Francisco, CA. As a 32 year old, she has led many protests and events for local organizations and works at a non profit which advocates for the environment. She has been a vegetarian for many years, and recently began to only shop sustainable or through second hand stores after learning about her grandmother as a garment worker in terrible environments. Julia likes to read lots of books, paint, and go on picnics with her girlfriend by the beach or park.

Connor is a 20 year old college student majoring in Business with a minor in Marketing. His interests are in fashion and music, along with surfing and climbing; he loves the outdoors and traveling to new places. Connor currently resides in San Francisco and hopes to work at a company related to his interests as a marketing manager. He recently learned about the effects of fast fashion and wants to start shopping more ethically and sustainable.

DAILY SCENARIOS A schedule of how the personas’ normal weekday would look like.

8 AM 10 AM 12 PM 2 PM 4 PM 6 PM 8 PM

Sasha

Hiro

Danielle

Mark

Julia

Connor

Look on Pinterest + Drink Coffee

Drive to Work + Listen to Podcast

Drive to School + Pick Up Coffee

Drop Off Kids at School + Commute

Wake Up + Go to Local Cafe

Early Surfing + Morning Routine

Get Makeup + Hair Done By Stylist

Company Meetings

Screenwriting in Film Class

Work on Pitch Deck Slides

Prep for Community Picnic Event

In Business Management Course

Photoshoot for Company

Lunch + Read Fashion Articles

Take Photos with Friends For Lunch

Client Meetings with Design Team

Host Fundraiser at Picnic Event

Go Rock Climbing with Friends

Healthy Lunch with Friends

Overlook + Direct Photoshoots

Leave School + Go Thrift Shopping

Quick Lunch + Read Philo Book

Meet with Small Shop Partners

Lunch with Friends

Prep + Start on 2nd Photoshoot

Phone Calls with Japan Team

Do Homework + Study for Exams

Product Team Project Collaboration

Call Organizations + Local Volunteers

In Accounting Analytics Course

Go Home to Cook Dinner

Dinner then Bike Ride Outside

Plan Social Content + Film Video

Dinner + Quality Time with Family

Vegetarian Dinner with Girlfriend

Do Homework + Study for Exams

Paint + Watch Netflix Show

Prep for Next Day + Sketch

Edit Video + More Content Work

Read Environmental Book for Bed

Research Ethical Shops + Read

Find Sustainable Clothing Shops

PANEL OF EXPERTS Knowledgeable individuals who are experts on the fashion industry and closely related topics.

Rebecca Cahua

Amy Dorie, Ph.D

Danette Scheib

Founder of Designing a Difference Sewing House

Assistant Professor in Apparel Design & Merchandising

Co–Founder of Lemon Twist & Clothing Designer

• Founder of nonprofit that provides employment opportunities in the Bay Area apparel manufacturing industry

• Assistant professor at San Francisco State University in Apparel Design & Manufacturing

• Co–founder of clothing company in San Francisco; Featured in multiple media outlets

• PhD in Apparel Design & Merchandising, Minor in Statistics from Iowa State University

• Provides lectures at SFSU in the Apparel Design & Manufacturing department

• MA degree in Family & Consumer Sciences

• BA degree in Apparel & Textiles from Iowa State University

• MA degree in Family & Consumer Sciences • BS in Apparel Design & Manufacturing from San Francisco State University

• BS in Apparel Design & Manufacturing from SFSU

PERT CHART A diagram that acts as a tool to organize and schedule the process/tasks needed to complete a project; PERT stands for Program Evaluation and Review Technique.

Research

Project Scope

Ideation

Midterm

Prototype

Refined Concept

Initial Concept

Final

Presentation

Report

SURVEY A forum of questions that relate to the research topic to gather data from anonymous participants/potential consumers. Q5. Do you rewear your clothing items?

Q10. Did you know that the effects of fast fashion makes it the second largest polluter in the world?

50%

57%

Yes and No

Yes, all the time

Q12. If you knew the information above (Q10 & Q11), would you be more conscious about where you shop?

Survey Findings

64% Probably

27% Yes, definitely

• People are interested/willing to shop sustainably if they knew more information • Social media campaigns are the most effective way to spread awareness

User Feedback “In addition to being aware about fast fashion and its effects on the environment, I think it is also important to be knowledgable about how to treat/use/recycle your clothes, especially if fast fashion brands are the only options within one's budget.”

Q13. If you knew about fast fashion, what are the reasons as to why you wouldn’t shop sustainably/ethically?

Q14. Rank the following in order of the most effective form of a campaign for spreading awareness about fast fashion? (1 = least effective, 4 = most effective)

85% Social Media Campaign

46% Events/ Organizations

• Due to the pandemic, events/organizations would not be the most effective campaign method • Posters/Postcard received 38% of votes, making it the alternative option

37% Non fast fashion brands are too expensive

34% I don’t know many sustainable/ethical brands

HYPOTHESIS Knowing companies that sell ethical clothing alternatives will encourage consumers to think about more sustainable shopping.

PROPOSED SOLUTION Create a social awareness campaign about fast fashion and its effects on the environment and garment workers.

Photo Credits: Marcus Loke

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CONCLUSION This chapter revealed the research methodologies utilized to gather information and observe potential users. With the accumulated research, it will aid in developing an effective design solution. There is a final hypothesis that best relates to the problem statement, with a proposed solution that establishes the deliverables expected. Chapter 3 will articulate the design process including a comparative analysis, storyboards, mapping matrix and ideation procedures.

CHAPTER THREE Design Solution

Chapter Three shows the initial concepts + inspiration that accumulates to the final design solution. In addition to deliverable concepts, it will provide charts and diagrams with the necessary research.

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PROPOSED SOLUTION + RATIONALE The favorable design solution in response to research findings and feedback provided in the preliminary research stage. In addition, the rationale behind the solution decision.

Deliverables • Poster • Social Media Posts • Marketing Merchandise

Solution Create a social awareness campaign about fast fashion and its effects on the environment and garment workers

Rationale • Results from survey proposed social media as the most effective platform to spread awareness about fast fashion • Informational without too much text/ wordiness • Easy to access with any device in public or comfort of your home • Can engage with comments or create an online community

“The key ingredients of fast fashion are the ability to track fashion trends quickly and to identify potentially popular new designs through daily proximity to fashion markets, fashion images and fashion makers” (Doeringer & Crean, 2004)

INSPIRATION + CONCEPT DRIVERS Visual inspiration and references for the design solution concept.

Social Media Posts • Cohesive layout of posts & design

• Data/facts about fast fashion

• Presents a clear color scheme

• Lists for sustainable clothing stores, shops and brands

• Minimal text for information, paired with clean photos

• Alternative methods to shopping sustainably + how to contribute

INSPIRATION + CONCEPT DRIVERS continued

Posters • Minimal text but bold • Presents a clear color scheme

• Quotes/Slogans/Call to action

• Engaging and visually pleasing; Relevant yet clean images

• Bold Text or Image • Not too cluttered or full or text

COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS Case studies or research sources that are utilized to compare existing groups or related design solutions in order to identify the highlights/relationships of the products.

Print Pros • Can Keep a Physical Copy of Campaign/Information • Doesn’t Require Internet or Social Platforms • Posters Can Be Utilized as Decorative Purposes

Everlane: Warming Jackets

Existing Print Campaigns • Simple but Effective Message/ Campaign

Jigsaw: For Life Not Landfill

• Vibrant/Pleasing Colors • Clean Images/Photos • Visually Pleasing; Can Easily Grab Attention • Graphic Based, Minimal Text Adolfo Dominguez: Be More Old

COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS continued

Print Cons • Easy to Lose Physical Copies • Can Easily Become Cluttered • Not Easily Accessible at Anytime • Contributes to Paper Waste

Custom Prints: Fast Fashion Graphic Print

Existing Print Campaigns • Doesn’t Provide Any Context or Information About the Problem • Weak Visual Appeal

Rachel Bennett: Sustainable Fashion

• Looks Outdated/Not Very Captivating

Patagonia: Buy Less Demand More

COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS continued

Digital Pros • Can Easily Be Shared on Multiple Social Platforms • Most Individuals Have/Utilize a Form of Social Media • Easy to Update Information or Correct Mistakes • Information Can Be Accessed at Home and in Public

@fash_rev

Existing Print Campaigns • Consistent Branding/Posts • Gathers Information in One Space to Access Easily • Visually Attractive & Cohesive; Engaging • Follows Modern Trends but Includes Quality Information

@fash_rev

COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS continued

Digital Cons • Need Internet Access to View Posts • Need a Form of Social Media • Posts Can be Deleted; Technical Issues May Arise Existing Print Campaigns

@forthefeelfashion

• Looks Cluttered, Unorganized & Random • Weak Visual Appeal • Too Much Text • No Consistent Branding

@fashionroundtable

MAPPING MATRIX A visual representation of comparison between related/existing products.

Patagonia: Buy Less Demand More

Adolfo Dominguez: Be More Old

Jigsaw: For Life Not Landfill

Rachel Bennett: Sustainable Fashion

Everlane: Warming Jackets

Effective

Ineffective @forthefeelfashion

@fash_rev

Custom Prints: Fast Fashion Graphic Print

@fash_rev

Digital

@fashionroundtable

STORYBOARD A visual panel of sketches to view how an individual might interact with or benefit from the proposed solution.

User reads an article on fast fashion and learns how harmful it is.

The user wants more information on how and where to shop ethically.

She sees a poster about fast fashion walking around clothing shops.

The user visits the Instagram on the poster & finds accessible information.

She finds sustainable apparel brands to visit & shops for new clothing.

User is happy about her new clothes & contributing to bettering the planet.

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CONCLUSION This chapter looks at the process of developing the final solution. Through comparative studies, storyboards and other research, a final concept has been created to effectively spread awareness about fast fashion. The deliverables consist of social media posts for an awareness campaign, posters and merchandise. The outcome of this solution is to push individuals to start thinking about what they wear and who made it.

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