Curve Revealed SS 2020 by CURVE

Revealed

BY CURVE SUMMER 2020

ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S WHO I AM LINGERIE UP TO A JJ CUP

YO U R N E W FAVO R I T E Intro ducing Ana. Our essential everyday collection that offers supp or t and style combined.

FA N TA S I E . C O M

Since 1951

A Look Inside the Summer Issue P. 1 1

PROTE S T PR AY ER A ND

P. 3 6 - 3 8

INTERVIEW WITH ENTOS FOUNDER FERNANDA MENA

PEACE

By Tina Wilson P. 1 2 — 1 4

L . A . FA SHION LIFE S T Y LE

P. 4 1 — 4 5

By Karen Cooper P. 1 5 — 1 7

GIVING BACK DURING

By Linda Dyett P. 4 7— 5 3

COVID-19

P. 1 8 — 2 0

H OW S P EC I A LT Y S TO R E S

SPORTS BR AS - THE LEADING EDGE OF ACTIVEWEAR

— NOW A GLOBAL TREND

GENDERLESS BR ANDS TO KEEP ON YOUR R ADAR

P. 5 4 — 5 5

ARE BR AVING THE STORM

SUS TA IN A B IL I T Y PR AC T I CE S TO IMPLEMENT

By Ellen Lewis P. 2 2 — 2 4

A SHIFT OF MINDSET

P. 5 6

BE YOND LINGERIE

- FROM CONSUMER TO CUSTOMER

By Asi Efros P. 2 5 P. 2 6 — 2 7

P. 5 7- 5 9

M A NUFAC T UR ING

L INGER IE FOR E V ERY DAY INTERVIEW WITH

P. 6 0 — 6 1

COR A HARRINGTON

P. 2 9 — 3 1

INTERVIEW WITH ON POINT

LINGERIE SHOPPING IN THE ER A OF BLACK LIVES

MARKET TRENDS 2020

By Kristen Classi-Zummo & Todd Mick P. 6 2 — 6 3

THREE KEYS TO UNLOCK CUS TO M ER LOYA LT Y

M AT TER

By Ali Cudby & Louise Schultz P. 3 2 — 3 3

WELCOME TO THE NEW NORMAL

By Patricia Maeda P. 3 4 — 3 5

SIX LINGERIE ART TRENDS

P. 6 4 — 6 5

P. 6 6

LINGERIE IN HISTORY

WHERE TO BUY

R EVEALED

Summer 2020 Issue COVER IMAGE BY

REVEALED BLOG

Loulette Lingerie

INS TAG R A M TWITTER

DESIGNED & PUBLISHED BY

FACEB O OK

Laura Schneider Sarah Evans Eurovet Americas

LINKEDIN CURVE NEW YORK CURVE LOS ANGELES INTERFILIERE NYC

curve-revealed.com @curvexpo @curvexpo @curvexpo Eurovet Americas / curvexpo curve-newyork.com curve-losangeles.com interfilierenewyork.com

ABOUT CURVE/EUROVET AMERICAS

Eurovet is the undisputed world leader for lingerie and swimwear, from texile to wholesale with international events in Paris, New York, Shanghai, and Shenzhen. It is also the reference point for sports textiles and equipment trade shows in France. In North America, Curve has been the leading trade show platform for intimate apparel and swimwear since launching in 2007. Produced by Eurovet Americas as part of the Comexposium group, Curve’s events in New York, Los Angeles, and Montreal are one-stop shopping and networking experiences for brands, buyers and industry professionals. The show is unwaveringly dedicated to providing top of the line services and events to inspire, educate, and drive the intimate wear world forward. In addition to Curve, Eurovet Americas produces Interﬁlière New York, the leading sourcing show for intimates in the United States.

ISSUE#3

L I NG E R I E • L OU NG E W E A R • L I F E S T Y L E

The Curve Team Marion Pradier Sentucq Laura Schneider Sarah Evans Murphy Connolly Kirsten Griffin Andrea Lazaro

Contributors

Asi Efros Ali Cudby Ellen Lewis Karen Cooper Kristen Classi-Zummo Linda Dyett Louise Schultz Patricia Maeda Tina Wilson Todd Mick

marion@curvexpo.com laura@curvexpo.com sarah@curvexpo.com murphy@curvexpo.com kirsten@curvexpo.com andrea@curvexpo.com

asiefros@gmail.com ali@alicudby.com ellen@lingeriebriefs.com karen@protean-prospects.com kristen.classi-zummo@npd.com ldyett@gmail.com louiseschultz@outlook.com patricia@fashionsnoops.com tina@twillustrator.com todd.mick@npd.com

Meet our Contributors

T I N A W I L S O N I S A N I N T I M AT E A P PA R E L D E S I G N E R / I L -

LU S T R AT O R SPEC I A LI Z I NG I N U N D E RW E A R , SL E E PW E A R , H O S I E R Y, S O C K S A N D L O U N G E W E A R . A S V P O F D E S I G N F O R B R A N D S S U C H A S C H R I S T I A N D I O R , C A LV I N K L E I N , D ON NA K A R A N, R A L P H L AU R E N, O SC A R D E L A R E N TA , BETSY

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TINA WILSON

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President of the Underfashion Club

K A R E N I S A M A R K E T I NG & C ON T E N T S T R AT EG Y PRO F ESSIONAL

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AFRICA

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GR EW UP I N LOS A NGELES. SH E IS A CON T R IBU TOR TO SWISS ART

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ELLEN

THE

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K AREN COOPER

Marketing & Content Strategist

LI NGERIE

B R I E F S . S H E H A S WO R K E D I N T H E I N T I M AT E A P PA R E L I N D U S T RY F O R OV E R 3 5 Y E A R S ON B O T H T H E R E TA I L A N D M A N U FAC T U R I N G S I D E S O F T H E B U S I N E S S . I N 2 0 0 9 S H E L AU NC H E D LI NG E R I E B R I E F S A S A DI GI TA L M E RC H A N DI S I N G P L AT F O R M T O S U P P O R T S P E C I A LT Y S T O R E B U Y E R S . I N T H E PA S T 1 1 Y E A R S L I N G E R I E B R I E F S H A S E V O LV E D F R O M A B L O G T O A M U LT I - FA C E T E D W E B S I T E O F F E R I N G

ELLEN LEWIS

I N S I G H T S I N T O A L L A S P E C T S O F T H E L I N G E R I E A P PA R E L

Partner & Publisher of Lingerie Briefs

BUSINESS.

A S I I S A N I N I M AT E A P PA R E L E X P E R T, S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y AC T I V I S T, W R I T E R A N D T R E N D F O R E C A S T E R W I T H E XPERTISE

LI NGERIE,

AC T I V EW EA R ,

LOU NGEW EA R,

S L E E P W E A R , A N D H O S I E RY. A S I I S T H E F O U N D E R A N D C R E AT I V E DI R EC T O R O F A N N VO G U E , A M A D E-I N-N YC S U S TA I NA B L E H I G H - E N D LI NG E R I E B R A N D. S H E I S A LSO A N EDI T OR W I T H M I N T MODA T R EN D F OR EC A ST I NG A N D A W RITER FOR T HE LI NGERIE JOU R NAL.

ASI EFROS

Founder & Creative Director of Ann Vogue ISSUE#3

L I NG E R I E • L OU NG E W E A R • L I F E S T Y L E

PAT R I C I A M A E DA I S A T R E N D E D I T O R AT FA S H I O N S N O O P S , S P E C I A L I Z E D I N WO M E N S W E A R A N D I N T I M AT E A P PA R E L . W I T H A M A S T E R S ' S D E G R E E I N FA S H I O N S T U D I E S F R O M PA R S O N S S C H O O L O F D E S I G N I N N E W YO R K , PAT R I C I A C O M B I N E S H E R E X T E N S I V E E X P E R I E N C E I N M E R C H A N D I S I N G A N D C U LT U R A L S T U D I E S T O I D E N T I F Y E M E R G I N G FA S H I ON T R E N D S T H AT W I L L I M PA C T C O N S U M E R B E H AV I O R I N S E A S O N S T O C O M E .

PATR ICI A M A EDA

Trend Editor for Fashion Snoops

LI N DA IS A N EW YOR K BA SED W R I T ER A N D EDI T OR W H O IS

FA S C I NAT E D

UNDERGAR MENTS

AND

SUSPECTS

T H E Y A R E T H E L E A D I N G E D G E O F FA S H I O N T O DAY. S H E H A S B E E N P U B L I S H E D I N T H E N E W Y O R K T I M E S , WA S H I N G T O N P O S T, VO G U E , M O N AC L E , N E W YO R K M AG A Z I N E , THE

LINDA DYET T

S T R AT E G I S T,

ALLU R E,

GLAMOUR,

N YCI T Y WOM A N,

AND MANY MORE.

Writer & Editor

A LI CU DBY IS T H E CEO OF YOU R ICON IC BR A N D A N D T H E AU T HOR OF A M A Z ON #1 BEST SELLER K EEP YOU R CUST O M E R S , A B O O K A B O U T C U S T O M E R L O YA LT Y A N D R E T EN TION. ALI ALSO W ROT E BUST ED & FIT M Y BR AS I N ADDITION TO LEADI NG

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CEO of Your Iconic Brand

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N O R T H A M E R I C A E V E N T UA L LY M A N A G I N G T H E U S O P E R AT I ON S F O R 11 Y E A R S . LOU I S E H A S A LOV E F O R T H E I N DU S T RY A N D A D E E P A PPR EC I AT I ON A N D R E SPEC T F O R T HE EN T R EPR EN EU R IAL SPIRIT OF LI NGERIE BOU TIQU E O W N E R S . L O U I S E WA S B O R N & R A I S E D I N M O N T R E A L ;

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THEN

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USA

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Strategic Consultant

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Editor's Notes Dear Intimate Apparel & Lingerie Community:

munity that will come together, raise each other up and be stronger than ever before.

We hope you are safe wherever you are! This very important issue of Revealed finds us all in an unprecedented moment in history. While we are struggling with the ramifications of a global pandemic that continues to affect us all both personally and professionally, we are also experiencing a long overdue awakening of civil and human rights. COVID-19 has affected our industry in both positive and negative ways. While it has unmoored us, it has also forced us to look at new ways of working and reaching our clientele, and pushed us to adapt to an ever changing market. Despite these challenging times, we are comforted to know that we are surrounded by a close-knit com-

The Black Lives Matter movement has also made us reconsider our behaviors and has opened our eyes to necessary changes. We often praise inclusivity and we want Curve to be a place where we can amplify Black voices. This conversation is very necessary, and we want to make sure it continues in the intimate apparel industry as well as throughout our country. Finally, I would like to thank all of you for being faithful to our webinar series every Wednesday! We will continue the series until I hopefully meet you â&#x20AC;&#x153;liveâ&#x20AC;? at one of our shows or a future Curve event! Warmly,

Raphael RAPHAEL CAMP

CEO EUROVET AMERCICAS

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TINA WILSON

OHLALA CHERI

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Protest, Prayer

and Peace

"Sometimes you have to wear your heart on your sleeve and I have heart for BLACK LIVES MATTER." B Y Tina Wilson

“Protest, Prayer and Peace” that was the theme for the songs being played on my favorite radio station WBGO, in the midst of the nationwide protests against brutality. With each song they played I felt prouder, angrier, happier, and yes… sadder. You don’t have to be Black in America to be going through so many different emotions, we all are. But if you are Black, the stakes are different, period.

Ade Hassan broke hallowed ground with Nubian Skin in 2014 by daring to give women of color a wide range of shades that paid homage to our skin tones. I remember when I first saw the line at Curve New York and thinking to myself “I hope she makes it”. She “made it” and we are all the better for it. A recipe for success is curated simplicity. Her classic styling in a myriad of season-less colors can run forever.

In the scheme of things, fashion and anything connected to consumption other than food seems a bit trivial, but what is not trivial is that we all need to make a living, we all need to support our families and our communities. If you have a business, especially a small business, you may be struggling or just breaking even. Black owned businesses in fashion are rare, and in lingerie, even rarer but they exist and they are powerful and necessary and must be supported.

I know I just finished praising simplicity and Anya Lust is anything but, and that’s okay. The brand is all over the place in a very good way. We need fantasy, playfulness, sexiness, tulle, satin, lace, cut outs, straps, ties, bows, and “toys” in this time of seclusion. I have read that sexy lingerie is blowing out and is giving comfy cozy wear a run for it’s money. I hope that is true, it gives me hope.

I first met Amber Tolliver more than a few years ago when she was starting her business, and I was giving advice. I was struck by her determination and uncompromising vision. A few years after meeting her I ran into her on the outskirts of Paris where we both were attending Interfi lière. On the final day of the show we departed together and hopped on the Metro. She led me to the best pharmacy in Paris for beauty products I have ever set foot in. It was a great day of window shopping, cocktails and dinner. I believe we will be hearing a lot more about her brand Liberté whose focus is beautiful modern bras for women of all sizes will that set you free, how timely. The Underargument has to be one of the best brand names to come along in a while. And its message of individuality and embracing our differences is needed now more than ever. We can be different and still be together. Maina, the founder has a way with beautifully edgy garments that are sexy and rebellious. Her muses are real and imperfect, like all of us. “Bridal with Passion and Purpose”, that is the mission of Loulette. They nailed it. Their online shopping experience is filled with gorgeously relevant bridal gowns and honeymoon goodies, and their lingerie assortment has some lovely prints, that are not too “sleepy”and colored in a very modern way. Many of their lace T’s, camisoles and bodysuits can be layered with an evening skirt or pants. This collection is multifaceted and absolutely wearable.

Suzy Black is feminine and pretty… pretty sexy. When you are this sexy, you don’t need a million colors, just black, white, red and lots of skin. I can think of nothing to say about Rihanna and Savage X Fenty that has not already been said. A brand with an accomplished mission to empower all women comes along once in a decade, if we’re lucky. She took the lingerie fashion show and turned it upside down, right along with the industry. D Bleu Dazzled plays with words and words are power. A powerful messages can make significant change. We are witnessing it now like some witnessed it in the 60’s. I admire this brand and it’s messaging, sometimes you have to wear your heart on your “sleeve” and I have heart for BLACK LIVES MATTER. This is the first in series of support for brands of color. Stay safe, protected and masked. Peace, Resistance and Vote! Tina Wilson is a staff contributor of Lingerie Briefs. This article appeared for the first time on June 24 in Tina’s monthly column in Lingerie Briefs.

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L.A. Fashion Lifestyle

Now a global trend B Y Karen Cooper

When you think of Los Angeles, it is impossible to imagine the city without its great weather, laid-back lifestyle, and entertainment industry. L.A.’s unique characteristics have shaped its own city-speciﬁc lifestyle and local fashion, one that has embraced activewear and loungewear as culturally appropriate, everyday apparel for decades. This trend has now exploded across the globe thanks to L.A.’s celebrity inﬂuence and- more recently- a surge in the number of people staying home during the pandemic. Who can forget the epic rise of the Juicy Couture all-velour tracksuit in the early 2000s? That was when celebrities like JLo, Britney Spears, Amy Poehler, and Paris Hilton (who claims to own 100 pairs of the iconic outfit) embraced this more-casual look. Loungewear shot to the top of the pop culture fashion charts, and suddenly it became perfectly acceptable (dare we say “cool”) in L.A. to run errands, go on dates, and even attend meetings in head-to-toe active or loungewear. Fast forward to now: the casual celebrity look has gone completely mainstream, along with an updated version of that Juicy Couture tracksuit from two decades ago: the modern day sweatsuit. “They’ve gone from something you wore on the couch to an every-day, ready-to-wear must-have,” said Shefali Shah, chief merchandising officer of the athleisure boutique Bandier, which has seen double-digit growth in its sales of sweats, according to Business of Fashion (a). While certain cultures may generally still prefer a more formal buttoned-up look for professional activities, people around the world have largely accepted loungewear and activewear as “acceptable fashion” for all. With most of the world in various stages of lockdown or reopening stages, forcing many people to work from home, the popularity of activewear and loungewear as everyday apparel shows no signs of slowing. Even Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour is not above the look, having stunned much of the fashion world in April when she posted a photo of herself working from home in a Breton top and joggers. SKIN

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“Our favorite fashion mavens have [also] been tapping an athleisure aesthetic by styling their outfits with sports bras to inject a more laid back vibe into their designer mix. The sports bra is versatile enough to mix with designer separates for a more elegant feel or style down with your favorite pair of jeans,” says Chelsea Carter in her Editorialist article “Sports Bra Styling Is Back And It’s The Athletic Wear Update Our Closets Needed.”(b). Much like with loungewear, Carter says the resurgence of the sports bra’s popularity can be tied back to LA-based celebrities and the fashion industry’s homage to the 90’s. “Stars such as Gwen Steffani, Jennifer Lopez, and Aaliyah ushered in the concept of sports bra as daywear in the 1990’s. Now a new generation of trendsetters (see: Kendall Jenner and Hailey Baldwin [both L.A. residents]) are conjuring new ways to wear the piece.” Los Angelenos regularly transition from leisure time to working out or vice versa, and their clothing choices reflect that adaptability and multi-functionality, making comfortable loungewear and activewear styles- like sweatsuits, leggings, and sports bras- staples in many L.A. wardrobes. Now the rest of the world, including the intimates industry, is embracing many of these same trends, further amplified by the Coronavirus crises, which has revolutionized where we spend our time and how we interact with each other. With the recent pandemic, we are seeing customers craving designs that really make them feel good,” explained Kirsten Griffin, Visitor Promotions Director for Eurovet Americas / Curve. “We're living, working, and functioning in a very different space now, so shoppers are craving comfort and want their wardrobe choices to help them feel good about themselves. The trend for loungewear pre-pandemic was already growing as a very strong category, and we were already seeing designers reexamining design, fabrications, and functionality with an emphasis on comfort. It's really become acceptable to stay in your pajamas or lounge wear all day. I mean, who would have ever thought that would happen?"

LOOKING AHE AD — FINDING JOY

importance of comfort and emotional wellbeing are playing crucial roles in consumer purchase decisions. These cultural sentiments and their design influences for upcoming seasons were explored in detail in a webinar hosted by Eurovet and Fashion Snoops on May 28, 2020 (c). The webinar highlighted how brands and retailers can (and should) capitalize on the growing trend of consumers embracing activewear and loungewear as part of their “look,” much like Los Angelenos have been doing for decades. “We're really seeing a shift in perception to wear what makes you feel good, and home-wear that can be worn in or out,” explained Griffin. “V.O. SHE has created washable satin and stretch silks styles, which is just one example of how traditional boundaries are really being blurred. While brands like Hanro were already doing a great job of combining ready-towear styles with lingerie details and then letting the customer decide on how to wear it.” Brands like Skin or About have also created fashionable, comfortable loungewear designed to transition seamlessly from indoor to out, while brands like Natori offer loungewear in silk-cashmere blends for added luxurious comfort. As loungewear and activewear categories continue to gain popularity, brands and retailers can embrace these trends to fulfill consumers’ need for comfort for any season, especially as the industry faces revolutionary changes in delivery flow and explores “seasonless” trends moving forward. Ultimately, it’s products with a clear purpose that will be driving sales across the board.

IN COMFORT While it’s true that much is still uncertain these days, we do know that many people are still spending a majority of their time within a one-mile radius of their homes, and the

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"Los Angelenos regularly transition from leisure time to working out or vice versa, and their clothing choices reflect that adaptability"

t r o f m Co

“The way we see it, people are not going to be buying just any product,” said Lilly Berelovich, Founder and Chief Innovation Officer at Fashion Snoops, during the webinar. “It's going to have to be a product with meaning and purpose, so understanding sentiments and what people feel will help us access that.” Keeping consumers’ feelings in mind may prove vital as we make design choices for upcoming seasons and attempt to understand what is (and will be) driving consumer purchases. The popularity of comfortable yet elegant, multi-purpose clothing is no longer unique to L.A.'s lifestyle, and the trend shows no signs of slowing. As we move through the uncertainty of one week to the next, and navigate this current social and economic crisis together, the boundaries between living and working continue to blur. Perhaps we’re all finally ready to take a cue from L.A.’s playbook and embrace comfortable, multi-function clothing as everyday wear. To learn more about current cultural sentiments and how to consider them as part of your designs for intimates, sleepwear, and loungewear, view the full webinar here. Curve’s complete webinar series (past and upcoming) can also be viewed by visiting: www.curve-newyork.com/webinars/. REFERENCES

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SKIN

a) “Everyone Loves Sweatsuits and Fashion Is Cashing In,” by Chavie Lieber, Business of Fashion (March 9, 2020) b) “Sports Bra Styling Is Back And It’s The Athletic Wear Update Our Closets Needed,” by Chelsea Carter, Editorialist (last updated March 29, 2020), c) "Looking Ahead at Key Design Shifts in the Imitates, Sleepwear, and Loungewear Markets" webinar, led by Eurovet in collaboration with Fashion Snoops (May 28, 2020).

Giving Back

During COVID-19 COVID-19 has affected everyone in some way or another. During this time however, many industries and communities have come together to help frontline and essential works. In the lingerie industry, many stores, boutiques, and companies used their resources to create masks, donate care packages and more to help those most affected. COSABELLA

Giveback with Cosabella Masks – for every mask sold, they are donating 20% of the net profits to A Common Thread. Spearheaded by Vogue in collaboration with the CFDA, a Common Thread is a storytelling initiative across all Condé Nast channels, spearheaded by Vogue and to raise both awareness and needed funds for those in the American fashion community who have been impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic. CORIN

Corin, with the participation of the partner Healthy Bust Foundation, transferred part of their production to non-commercial entities providing masks to health care services, such as hospitals, hospices, nursing homes, care and treatment centers for children and the elderly, free of charge. LEONISA

LEONISA

As a company that creates garments, with access to their own cutting-edge machinery and the ability to create their own fabrics in-house, Leonisa is in the unique position to directly help their communities. To help these essential workers, they have increased production of leak-proof, breathable fabric, which they are using to create face masks and protective clothing. WACOAL

In celebration of National Nurse’s Week, and in honor of their heroic work, Wacoal has donated over 3,000 bras in total valued at over $90,000 MSRP to Nurses at hospitals around the country to help them feel comfortable and supported. SOAK

Every purchase of a Handmaid hand cream 12pk or a Soak care kit, Soak will donate the equivalent quantity to frontline workers. They will safely deliver the kits to those who need it most. "Midwives are in such a unique position right now. Their job doesn’t stop, they can’t slow down or stay inside." said Diana Cardozo from Soak. Soak is also donating to birthing center staff, and others who play a vital role in helping people deliver babies, right now. EVGENIA LINGERIE

SOAK

Stephanie Bodner from Evgenia Lingerie started making cotton face masks when a friend, in Oakland, CA reached out about receiving masks. Initially, Bodner donated as many masks and scrub caps as I could, offering them not only to her friend, but also to individuals in need for only the cost of shipping and handling. "The demand grew substantially so I began selling my masks in addition to donation to help offset the cost of the free ones and to cover the cost of labor and materials,” said Stephanie Bodner. R EVEALED

FLEUR OF ENGLAND

Fleur Turner, CEO and Lucy-Ann Stevens, Production Manager have been using their sewing skills to make PPE for local hospitals in their spare time. Lucy-Ann has been making headbands which are used to stop their masks from rubbing, by putting the elastic around the buttons rather than their ears. VERDIANI

FLEUR OF ENGLAND

A dear friend of the Verdiani family, who is an obstetrician at a local hospital, kindly sent them fabric that they usually use during surgeries. Since receiving the fabric Verdiani has produced and donated the masks back to the hospital in Massa, Italy. LOULETTE LINGERIE

Loulette has made hundreds of masks for local healthcare workers. They use some of their own fabrics and they also had some fabrics donated to them after posting on their Instagram. Loulette has also worked with an organization called Fashion Girls For Humanity, where LaTimberly Johnson made instructional videos and PDFs for masks, isolation gowns, nurse caps, and more. THE LIT TLE BR A COMPANY

MILA KRASNA

The Little Bra Companies (TLBC) manufacturing partner turned one of their bra production lines over to make face masks in February. Since then, they have made thousands of face masks for their community and country, and now, for TLBC too. TLBC received their first donation of face masks in February, and sent them directly to ICU nurses in New York, NY and Los Angeles, CA as well as home health nurses in Orange County, CA. Their act of kindness inspired them to pay it forward by adding their own items to the care packages which included a face mask, Romeo Chocolates, August Tea, a gift card to TLBC. From there, they reached out to their TLBC customers asking them to nominate a healthcare worker on the frontline. TLBC had an overwhelming response and donated dozens of care packages. MILAKRASNA

The MilaKrasna company has been a strong advocate of safety and sustainability long before the COVID-19 global outbreak. MilaKrasna recognized there was a need on the market for protective gear and masks and they invested some of their efforts in designing fashionable face masks, which they still have in their collection. A bit later MilaKrasna decided to donate some of the masks to their local medical officers when they were in need. MilaKrasna has been enclosing every purchase with one face mask free of charge. KILO BR AVA

Kilo Brava has donated masks that they purchased from one of their factories. They went to essential employees who did not have access to them at the initial outbreak of covid-19. HANK Y PANK Y

HANK Y PANK Y

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Hanky Panky's Co-Founders worked alongside their premier sample-maker to hand-cut and sew hundreds of lace and cotton masks. These masks were sold on their website with $5 from each purchase being donated to the campaign to acquire KN95 masks for NYC healthcare providers, in partnership with Pearl River Mart.

A N ITA

Anita has manufactured non-medical grade masks and donated to various retailers. Anita has also donated bras and underwear to nurses and frontline workers in conjunction with various initiatives through their retailers. CHRISTINE LINGERIE

Christine Lingerie is pleased to present their premier collection of reversible silk masks: designed to assist in reducing and preventing the spread of COVID-19. Available in seven print and color combinations, their reversible masks feature a built-in nose wire, silk covered ear bands, and a built-in pocket for inserting a filter. All net proceeds from the masks collection will be donated to the Greater Vancouver Food Bank. E V E LY N & B O B B I E

CALIDA

Evelyn & Bobbie donated 300 knickers to "I Support The Girls", an organization that collects and distributes essential items including bras, underwear and hygiene products for women who are homeless, impoverished and/or in distress. During COVID-19 the organization experienced a 35% increase in demand for their products. Evelyn & Bobbie exists to participate in the advancement not only of the industry, but of their culture. Women's empowerment starts with one woman lending one or more hands to move forward with support, confidence and grace. SKARLETT BLUE

As a brand rooted in the heart of NYC, Skarlett Blue donated 300 KN95 masks to their local NYC hospital Mount Sinai Hospital to help in the fight against COVID-19. They also gave away a free mask in every order on skarlettblue.com to help their customers be safe during this time. FA LK E

Community leaders in the retail industry have created care packages to honor and thank the healthcare workers on the frontline of the COVID-19 pandemic. Falke and Easton International are supporting this endeavor by donating comforting products to the workers who care for their loved ones. With the help of Falke and Easton International, retailers are distributing packages of products to hospital workers across the country. Each package contains a thank you letter to the hospital staff and products ranging from functional wellness socks to cozy slippers. The members of this partnership hope that these packages offer the healthcare teams some of the support and comfort they have shown local communities. SKIN

Skin has donated loungewear sets to nurses. The donated set came with an organic cotton hoodie and pants in addition to a pair of slippers. Later, Skin made these sets available to purchase with a discount. CALIDA

The high-quality Calida hygienic masks, made from organic cotton, are being produced via the company’s own production platform in eastern Europe. The materials used are mainly sourced in Switzerland, Austria and Germany, and all come from past collections – giving Calida's own design department’s high-quality handmade prints a new lease on life. No additional materials are required and precious resources are protected – thus ensuring a sustainable approach. The hygienic masks have been designed and manufactured to ensure the best possible fit.

UNDRESS CODE

Undress Code added cotton masks to the orders as a gift, to ensure the safety of their customers. AUBADE

In a generous effort to allow people to be more comfortable, Aubade donated panties to patients recovering from COVID-19. COMMANDO

Commando began manufacturing cloth masks and donating to help meet local hospital demands, as well as the demands of community support organizations. Having domestic, in-house cutting & sewing teams, and U.S.A. supply chain channels allowed them to shift their priorities, and get the project started. Given the growing demand for non-medical cloth masks, Commando is proud that they were able to increase their production & offer these masks to Commando consumers. In addition, they launched a partnership with their local chapter of United Way to help distribute and donate masks to those who need them most. For every mask sold on wearcommando.com, they will donate one to their local chapter of United Way. CHANTELLE

In efforts to support sustainability during COVID-19, Chantelle made masks from certified OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 fabric. They been tested to assure >90% filtration of fine particles after 50 washes. Chantelle have manufactured over 20 million high-quality masks and have donated over 140,000. Starting in the U.S.A. mid-July, the brand will be offering these reusable masks to their retail partners and online for purchase.

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How Specialty Stores

are Braving the Storm Before the pandemic turned the retail world upside down. B Y Ellen Lewis

Before the pandemic turned the retail world upside down, the department store business was already dying on the vine. Witness the latest fall out of Neiman Marcus and J.C. Penny’s. Why? We can certainly cite the internet, e-commerce, social media. But to me, it was the lack of imagination and the disregard for what the consumer really needs and wants.

One of the reasons I personally love the specialty store retail channel is because of the entrepreneurial spirt of their owners. This resolve is the hallmark of small shop business. The driving force was, is and always will be the customer. Constrained by a budget, but not by bean counters, the search for merchandising opportunities remains the motivating force. These merchants can make their own decisions. I know this personally because when I was a buyer at A & S and Macys (a million years ago), department stores were regional. Buyers developed their own financial strategies and made purchases according to individual store profiles learned by visiting their stores constantly. No one told me what to buy. Leonard Cohen said: “There’s a crack in everything. That’s how the light gets in.” This statement captures the mindset of the Lingerie Specialty stores as the quarantine evolved. From an initial state of shock to a call to action, buyers have used their pandemic reality to forge ahead and find a way to survive. Recently, I moderated Curve’s first virtual chat with store owners to discuss their reactions and the actions they have pursued to find a solution to cash flow dilemmas and their business grief. The range of emotions and the initiatives developed by each store have been enlightening. The initial conversations were difficult. The shock, the deer in the headlight reactions, the sense of loss. It was hard to hear. Lodged in the epicenter here in NY, I completely understand Town Shop’s Danny

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Koch. His family has steered this iconic shop since 1888 and never experienced anything like this. NYC has been especially devasting and the epicenter of not only the disease but heartbreaking emotions. But as the weeks have advanced, innovative merchandising methods have emerged proving successful enough to keep many stores above water. In fact, many of these will prove useful in the future. Certainly, social media has taken the reins. Many buyers used this tool to reach customers directly. Liliana Mann, owner of Linea Intima in Ontario, began a live video series of alphabet stories. Featuring one bra cup size daily on Facebook and Instagram, she identified styles targeted for a specific size, for example a D cup. The results have been positive, upping sales each day in these sizes. Susanne Alvarado, owner of Sugar Cookies in downtown NYC, started virtual trunk shows. Using e-mail, social media, and her website, she began partnering with brands. Posting the brands e-commerce images, she offered their collections on her own social media, for example Cosabella. After the sale was made, the item was directly drop shipped from the company, never entering her inventory. A win for both. Kimberly Fairs from A Lion’s Lair in Florida began online auctions on Facebook starting with bits and pieces of her inventory at cost, she sold 120 items the first few days. Jenette Goldstein, owner of Jenette Bras in L.A. and Atlanta, is in a particularly unique situation, having opened two new stores situated on opposite coasts one week prior to the closedown. She has created an omni presence on social media using personal, life evoking stories to stay front and center with her customer. This has also enabled her to sustain communication with her extensive charity network.

LILIANA MANN - LINEA INTIMA IN ON TA R IO

S U S A N N E A LVA R A D O SUGAR COOKIES LINGERIE IN NYC

JENETTE GOLDSTEIN - JENETTE BRAS IN CALIFORNIA & GEORGIA

JEANNE EMORY (LEFT) - BR A GENIE IN LOUISIANA

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T LC IN M O N TA N A

Sonya Perkins of Forever Yours Lingerie in British Columbia was very direct with an outright appeal to her customers for help to keep her store running. Her customers responded. Using social media, especially live video on her robust Instagram, she sold enough product to pay the first month’s rent while closed. One of the initiatives that I personally found surprising, was how Tana Re and Lisa Cetrone, owners of TLC in Montana, managed to run virtual fittings online. Against my belief that this can work, in the first 17 fittings, they gleaned sales from 15 sessions. Thinking outside of the box, they asked each customer to ensure that someone else, a sister, mother, daughter was present during the fitting. This enabled them to instruct the partner on how to adjust the bras. From the viewing, they suggested styles. They sold their first 2 Empreinte bras at $200 in this manner. Staying in touch with customers proved to be a real force as people yearned for human contact. Jeanne Emory owner of Bra Genie in New Orleans spent an incredible amount of time touching base with her consumers. Sending personal handwritten notes to her 100 best customers proved priceless. The feedback and the sales results were outstanding. As she told me, doing things more deliberately, more mindfully helped to deliver the message that Bra Genie cared about their needs through this debacle. Patti Platt and Rebecca Ulrich-Dodson from A La Mode in Maryland focused intensely on preparation for reopening. Learning every detail on cleanliness and prevention from the CDC, they have prepared their stores step by step to insure customer confidence upon return. Communicating this constantly has kept them in constant touch. It is also interest-

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ing to note that the shift in sale’s content for many of these retailers was eye opening. Sugar Cookies, reaching out to their standard customers, mostly boudoir oriented, discovered that she was selling comfort over sexy and introduced products successfully that she had never sold before. Bra Genie’s surge in sleep, lounge and bralettes only reinforces a trend that was evolving even before the pandemic. I can not emphasize enough the level of charitable work that many stores contributed. From Larissa Olson of Chantilly Lace’s launched the Comfort Project for nurses, to Michael and Sarah Weiner of Trousseau’s devotion to creating and donating masks to multiple medical related venues, the community outreach from all these stores was enormous. The cooperation between stores and brands and the efforts on both sides to support each other through this time merits mention. But the list is too extensive to overview here. It does, however, emphasize the astonishing community attitude inherent in the Lingerie Industry. The actions taken by many of the stores around the country prove that there “could” be light at the end of the tunnel. Paraphrasing David Brooks in a recent Times editorial: "We are embarking on The Great Reset. We must identify the forces that drive change, own our own set of strategic opportunities, find new perspectives, and invoke more generosity and solidarity than we could have previously accepted. To be present in the moment is a luxury."

CHRISTINE LINGERIE

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A Shift of Mindset

From Consumer to Customer "We are not rich enough to buy cheap clothes" B Y Asi Efros

“We’re not rich enough to buy cheap clothes” – a quote I remember from my childhood. Growing up in Soviet Russia in the 70’s and 80’s taught me to appreciate every dress I had. As I remember, all of my clothes were unique and hand-crafted by my grandmother from natural textiles. Trips to the fabric store were rare and precious as high-end fabrics were expensive. As a result, all girls back then wore one dress until they grew out of it. Then it was passed down to a sibling or a girl in another family. I remember that wearing beautifully sewn and ﬁtted clothes made me feel loved, cared for, and conﬁdent. Looking back, the 50’s and 60’s in the U.S. and Europe were, in fact, times when we embraced the concept of sustainability. We cherished what we owned and wore, thus creating an aura of abundance out of very little. Clothes weren’t cheap but they were made to last and signified our individual shape and style. Plastics didn’t dominate our existence back then. We enjoyed the tactile experience and graceful forms of reusable glass bottles, metal cutlery, and white-cloth dining. Fresh farm produce fed our bodies and minds with sun-ripened nutrients as processed and genetically modified foods were science fiction at the time. Since we already have an image in our collective memories of how we once were, the transformation of mindset towards a sustainable future is an easier process. The very nature of sustainability is rooted not in the world outside, but in the world within us. It is hidden in the psychology that determines our behavior. Fundamental behavioral values, like our relationship to property, and respect for our own efforts and the efforts of others, govern our interactions with nature and each other.

obsessing about what we don not have is an old Hindu teaching. It bears direct ties to notions of overproduction and overconsumption. Changing the mindset is, by far, the most difficult shift attempted in society. However, the need for that change is apparent and the urgency is high. “By 2030, fashion brands will see a decline in EBIT margins of more than 3% points if they continue ‘business as usual.’ That adds up to approximately €45 billion per year of profit reduction for the industry because of scarce resources, higher labor costs, and overproduction,”according to The Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report. For more than 30 years in the U.S.A., price was the driving force behind consumer spending behavior. Educating consumers about the true cost of garments will eliminate the main obstacle on the way toward a respectful relationship with clothes and appreciation of the craft. Nowadays, from the customer’s point of view, buying sustainable apparel does not mean spending more money. It is about shopping smarter. Let’s illustrate that scenario while following two consumer behavior models. Here are the stories of Customer A and Customer B.

"Luxury brands can embrace new ways to increase their loyal following.Inclusivity of all ages, origins, and body types will further expand brands’ customer bases and build a strong emotional bond between the customerand the brand."

A philosophical concept of appreciating what we have versus

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Customer A

Customer B

spent $400 on 4 garments

spent $400 on 10 garments

Before making a purchase, Customer A researched their choices and selected four garments that complimented their wardrobe. These garments were exquisite and made of high-quality sustainable fibers which were not only good for their skin but also easy on the environment. The unique aesthetic of these garments allowed them to wear them for multiple occasions and to enjoy their lasting properties for a period of three years. Customer A spent those three years in love with their clothes and themself. They treated these garments as an extension of their body and took care of them as if they were their own skin.

Customer B purchased them from one of the established fast fashion retailers on their way home from work. The impromptu buy was inspired by an Instagram post from their favorite fashion influencer. The amount of the purchase was driven by the low price of the garments. Customer B immediately began to wear eight garments.* They were thrilled with them for a few weeks. However, the first wash cycle left them frustrated as four out of eight garments showed signs of shrinkage and peeling.** Customer B discarded them and was left with four. During year two, the garments started to fall apart as they were made in a hurry by means of inexpensive materials. They were left with just two. In year three, Customer B realized that these garments were fashionable no more. They also looked worn and old. As a result, Customer B tossed them into the dumpster.

AFTER

YEARS,

CUSTOMER

STILL

ENJOYED ALL 4 GARMENTS.

Many brands have cultivated their relationship with Custmer A by inviting them into their exquisitely crafted environments year after year. Among them are Natori, Carine Gilson, La Perla, Myla, Eres, Coco de Mer, Olivia von Halle, Natalie Begg, Hanro, and Skin. The newest uncompromising additions are Studio Pia, Ginia,Violet & Wren, Evelyn & Bobbie, and The Underargument. These brands emphasize quality over quantity by stimulating a healthy shopping appetite and teasing the customer with the lure of the fresh rangeonly now and then. Customer A is more than willing to await their next luxurious purchase as they would an exquisite dining experience. Luxury brands can embrace new ways to increase their loyal following.Inclusivity of all ages, origins, and body types will further expand brands’customer bases and build a strong emotional bond between the customer and the brand. Conceptually, new imagery that lovingly reflects her imperfections will bolster women’s appreciation of themselves.

AFTER

YEARS,

CUSTOMER

HAD

N OT H I N G L EF T.

*Over 20% of purchased fast fashion apparel garments are never worn. **Over 50% of purchased fast fashion apparel garments are disposed of inunder a year. What can we do to assist Customer B in reevaluating their decision? As an industry, we can support Customer B in the process of internal transformation. We can educate them by highlighting the garments’ validity.We can motivate them to mindfully plan for her next purchase. We can offer them consciously crafted apparel that dresses not only their body but also their mind. These are some of the tools that retailers and brands may use to support that transformation: Websites display brands’ achievements in bio-economy; Brands entice buyers with sustainable skin-loving textiles; Labels and hangtags report on transparency; Stores centered on community, not consumerism; Sales associates are educators in well-being; In-store signage tells stories of garments, not discounts; Retailers seduce customers with refined displays of quality; The purposeful design of clothes projects value; Influencers are mindful cultural icons; Social media carries the message of eco-conscience; Storytelling is employed by means of all mediums to spotlight herinner beauty.

HANK Y PANK Y

“We’re not rich enough to buy cheap clothes.” I heard this quote again in New York City from a talented young designer who is a Swiss native a few days ago. That phrase traveled through space and time, bridging the past and the future in an instance. For me, it was a sign of a massive tectonic shift of mindset from being that of a consumer to that of a customer. I’m happy to see that we are well on the way towards the most imperative behavioral revolution. Until then... R EVEALED

CUSTOMER A SPENT $ 400

t e s d n i M CUSTOMER B SPENT $400

r o f e i r e g n Li eryday Ev

KILO BR AVA

DREAMGIRL

HANK Y PANK Y

SKARLETT BLUE

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Interview with

Cora Harrington A Honest Conversation on Race in the Intimate Apparel Industry B Y The Curve Team

Tell us about your experience as a Black woman in the lingerie industry. How do you think your experience has been different from other industry professionals? My experience with the intimate apparel industry has been they're often conservative and exclusionary, on the axes of gender, sexuality, disability, and, of course, race and ethnicity. Brands are more likely to ignore Black professionals, to assume Black professionals are working for other people (as opposed to owning their own brands), to confuse Black professionals with each other, and to avoid working with Black professionals. This has not only been my experience, but also the experience of other Black professionals I've spoken to... including the 5 women on my panel. More than that, in terms of how products are actually sold, brands are reluctant to use Black models (especially darker skinned Black models with kinkier hair), reluctant to work with Black influencers, and many brands refuse to offer darker-toned nudes or even change the names of their bra colors from words like "nude" or "skin" to more neutral names that don't imply whiteness is the default.

necessary if we want a more inclusive and diverse industry that is welcoming to Black people. Do you think the lingerie industry should support Black-owned businesses and if yes in what way? Absolutely, and there are a variety of ways to do this. Are Black people included on panels at industry events? Do Black people lead and moderate panels? If not, why? Are Black people present at networking events? Nominated for industry awards? If not, why? Are there more than a handful of Black-owned brands on the tradeshow floor? If not, why? Are Black-owned brands present in your shop or boutique? If not, why? An absence of Black people should not be the norm. It should strike you as unusual. You should notice the absence and then wonder why it exists. We know it's not because of a lack of a talent or a lack of desire, so what is the reason? And be honest with yourself when you answer.

How do you think companies can seriously integrate Black people in a way which can have a lasting impact on the intimate industry itself? Consistency is key as is listening to Black people in this industry. It's not enough to post a black square on Instagram. Do Black people work for your company? Are there any Black execs? Are the Black people in your company offered mentorship? Are you more likely to hire through friends or previous industry contacts instead of searching for and interviewing more diverse candidates? All of this takes effort, and it may feel uncomfortable. That's good. It means you're reaching beyond what's familiar to you. That discomfort is

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COR A HARRINGTON

What advice would you give to a Black entrepreneur who wants to start in the intimate apparel industry? Oh goodness...I think I could write a novel on this, but I'll start with three things I wish I had known. The first is to not be afraid to reach out and introduce yourself to others, especially to other Black people in this industry. I love to hear about and support indie brands. I know the Black women on my panel said they also support up-and-coming industry professionals. We are a resource that didn't exist when many of us started. The second, unfortunately, is something we all know and are familiar with and that's having a very thick skin. I've had people say rude things to me. I've had people insult me. I've had people tell me I don't belong because I didn't do things the "right" way. For me, that was motivation. There is power in digging your heels in and refusing to be thrown out. The third bit of advice is to know when to leave. No one starts a business with the intention of it going awry, but sometimes, the reasons why a business goes under have nothing to do with you. Black entrepreneurs often don't have access to the funding, factories, mentorship, and networking channels other entrepreneurs do. Sometimes you'll have a great idea as a Black entrepreneur and then see that replicated by brands with more resources. You are not a failure if you have to stop. You are a success just for trying to make it here, and don't let anyone - not even yourself - tell you otherwise.

LOUNGE IN SELF LOVE

Yolanda White

Dayo Women Y O L A N D A W H I T E made it her mission to help women see

Cora's Biography C O R A H A R R I N G T O N is the author of In Intimate Detail:

How to Choose, Wear, and Love Lingerie as well as the Founder and Editor in Chief of The Lingerie Addict, the world's leading online lingerie magazine. Named "the woman changing the way we think about lingerie" by Forbes, Cora is currently obsessed with peony season, vegan food, and rewatching Avatar: The Last Airbender for the 5th time.

and love themselves a little bit more. She created L O U N G E I N S E L F L O V E as an engaging and immersive diary that creates a

safe space for any woman to explore, discover and commit to a deeper level of self-love. Now women can engage in a creative experience to capture thoughts, beliefs and feelings in over 25 self love guided exercises with diary pages, more than 30 inspirational quotes to ignite the mind and many self-love coloring experiences. Explore the entire Dayo Women collection at www.dayowomen.com

Visit The Lingerie Addict page at www.thelingerieaddict.com

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A N YA LUS T

Explore

Tina's illustrations at www.twillustrator.com or @tinadesignchef

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Lingerie Shopping in the Era of BLM

Webinar Digest Originally hosted by Curve on June 24th 2020

In June, Eurovet Americas hosted a roundtable of prominent Black voices in lingerie to discuss their professional experiences and what the Black Lives Matter Movement means for the intimate apparel industry. The following is an abbreviated version of a longer, more complex conversation. We encourage you to watch the full webinar if you have not already, available on Curve’s website. Cora Harrington of The Lingerie Addict moderated the conversation alongside panelists Tina Wilson, Designer and President of The Underfashion Club, Amber Tolliver, Founder of Liberte, LaTimberly Johnson, Creative Director and Owner of Loulette Lingerie, Rosa Harris, Owner of Vy’s Closet and Wencillia Querbel (Wen), Founder of Comics Girls Need Bras. The conversation started by addressing the recent #blackouttuesday, where supporters posted black squares on their social media feeds to signal that they would temporarily take a step back from posting to make way for BIPOC voices. Tina was pleased to see so many intimate apparel brands and retailers taking part, but was hesitant to applaud those that are not truly on board with the movement or are not hiring BIPOC and are just using this as an opportunity for some good PR. Amber commented that in order to make change businesses must systematically change the way they are run, which includes creating diversity through representation of models. Echoing the calls for more diversity in hiring Rosa added that as a retailer she needs to feel welcome when curating products for her store and it can be uncomfortable when the teams she works with from brands have no reps that look like her. She encouraged brands that were unsure of how to go about hiring a more diverse team to work with professionals that are experienced in

this area of business development. LaTimberly also added that one of the hardest things is not seeing BIPOC in higher positions. She had felt, as a Black woman, there was no way for her to reach these positions, so she had started her own business. Wen said in addition to diversifying staff, brands need to be conscious of the wording they use to describe their garments, citing that “invisible” or “nude” undergarments are not exactly universal. Each woman made it clear that it is not enough for a company to say they support Black Lives Matter, and that substantive actions need to be taken in all aspects of the business to encourage equity. With a group of Black lingerie industry professionals that each hold different titles their individual experiences varied, but when the topic of microaggressions came up, each had examples to share. Rosa mentioned feeling that her time was not valued or respected the way it would be if she were not Black when a meeting gets interrupted on the busy Curve show floor. Wen also discussed the frustrations of not being as respected as her White counterparts, specifically bringing up one instance of her partnering with a brand, working with them and providing all of her information and still having the content tagged as Cora’s, not her own. Wen mentioned feeling really hurt by what she perceived as a disregard for the hard work she put into the collaboration. Tina reflected on a time when not only were there not many Black lingerie industry professionals, but when she was the only Black member of the Underfashion Club board. Amber and LaTimberly both talked about being met with disbelief when they would introduce themselves as the owner of their brand, and not just the model.

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As the panelists continued to discuss a broad range of topics, the conversation shifted to their individual experiences as Black professionals in the industry. Cora: Amber and Timmy, you both run and design brands, and are you both fairly new designers in comparison to more well-known legacy brands. Can you share some of your experiences in this industry as Black women? Amber: It’s been a beautiful journey, it’s been scary but I had the privilege of actually meeting Tina early on, who became a guiding light for me and a source of encouragement and guidance to keep me from completely going off the cliff. I want to start on a positive note of saying representation is so important. I saw Tina speak at Interfiliere a few years ago. It made me realize, there are other Black female professionals within this industry - it is possible, I can do it. That was really wonderful but again going back to what we discussed earlier this constant need of not only proving myself for going above and beyond which is sometimes really exhausting. Especially then if you look at the product and you actually take time to notice the amount of work that went into it a number of questions I get all the time there would be no need for them because my pieces speak for themselves. LaTimberly: It’s been very tough when you don’t see a lot of other people that look like you. I have been very excited this past year because I have started to meet other Black women in the industry and it gives me hope. In the beginning it was super hard. Growing up I had nothing, so for me to try to start a business, you need funds, investors, you need all of these things, so it was very hard to get the funds to even start. I remember trying to get a business loan and personal loans. My credit is good but I still cannot get it, I still can’t find an investor. That has been one of the things that was kind of eye-opening to me, it was something that I had never really thought about until I tried to start. That support that many other people might have an easier time getting, it’s a little harder when you’re Black and you might not have met anyone that can invest in your entire career. I think it’s important for me now to be there for people who are younger, who have the same dreams as me and to help them wherever I can by mentorships or whatever I can do, so maybe for them it’s easier and it’s not so much of a struggle. Cora: Tina, this next question is for you, though I don’t know you personally you came highly recommended by Raphael from curve and you have been in this industry longer than any of us. What changes have you noticed over the years? Do you believe there should be more mentorship and cultivation of Black designers? What have you seen in a broad view regarding how the industry treats Black people?

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Tina: Mentorship is extremely important to me. I was mentored by really great people, none of those people were people that looked like me, but I got that mentorship anyway. So, I’ve always felt it was my obligation to do that. I try to spend time, answer questions, hire, I do have people intern that are people of color and I hope I made an impact because I’ve been very fortunate. The industry itself still has very few Black people in design. It’s been changing and I think now it’s been a very difficult time in fashion for anyone to get hired, it’s really bad. As minorities, we suffer first and then everyone else suffers later. I don’t know how to help that other than to speak up to the people who employ me about hiring other people that look like me and to be vigilant about that and to give people a chance. This industry has been very good to me and aside from going into a few appointments and fabric appointments and having people ignore me in fabric shows all over the world, it has been a pretty good experience. I want to dedicate myself to helping other people have that experience. Cora: Rosa, you are the only boutique owner on our panel and only two panelists based outside of the US, how does this topic relate to your business and your customer base? Rosa: Over the years it has been very difficult to cater to my customer base. In the Cayman Islands we have a melting pot of ethnicities, Caribbean people being darker skin toned. When I started my business I had a lot of color, nude, and black. It quickly became a challenge when you’d have a continuity piece when they say, “do you have that in black?” no, it only comes in nude. It really was challenging to find for curvy clients, average clients, fuller busted clients, the right product mix and colorways that would sell. Now I would say in the last three years there has been a shift, a really positive shift, in having options. But, with my boutique catering to busty gals, the size ranges can be limited depending on what you’re looking for. I think there’s still some work to do when it comes to product offering and I feel encouraged with what I see with my brands bringing out mochas, café au laits, caramels, and gingers. I think it’s wonderful, but there’s still a lot more that can be infused in various aspects of the business with various different departments within collections. Cora: Wen, you’re the only blogger on the panel and you’re also from France, you live in Canada now, what are your thoughts on how the industry treats Black bloggers in comparison to white bloggers? Do you believe there is room for improvement? Wen: Yes indeed. I’m from France although I grew up in the Caribbean, so I have different points of views. The thing that I don’t really understand right now is that for me it has been harder to work with French brands then it has for US or UK

brands. They are not seeing what I could bring to them. First of all there are not a lot of Black bloggers, especially Black lingerie bloggers. I realized that French brands, most of them I see and meet with every year, and still they would rather work with fashion bloggers that know nothing about lingerie rather than working with me. I’d say that it’s simple, for me it doesn’t really make sense because it’s not even about the number of followers, they would work with people with less followers. Brands need to recognize the amount of work [bloggers] put in. When we put together photoshoots, we have to find the location, the photographers, the makeup artists, then we have to model. When we put these pictures out there, we write about it. We are doing so much work, usually for a very affordable price and they still don’t want to pay us. It’s not enough to receive free samples. I have tons of lingerie and I can also buy lingerie. This is a little bit offensive when I see the French lingerie brands treating me as if they are offering me something for free in exchange for this huge amount of work. I hope bloggers stand up for themselves and don’t keep accepting this treatment from brands. Cora: If there is one way the lingerie industry could support you or if there was one thing you want to see more from the industry what would that look like? Tina: I would like to see, and it’s already well underway, products that reflect the colors and the shapes and the attitudes towards lingerie reflected in people of color because it’s just beginning and there are a few pioneers out there who have already done a great job, like Nubian skin with the colors. Rosa: I agree 100% with Tina in terms of the product range. It would be great if brands did diversify the types of models that they are using so that it can be reflected in our global community because lingerie is global. I would love to see more images of people of color wearing the product. Amber: Taking a chance and opening the doors to people that you may not necessarily would have or you would have thought twice about it. It’s wonderful to be vetted by and approved by someone who’s established in the industry but what makes more meaningful change is for people to break down the barriers. To see something that needs to be fi xed or changed and to take action themselves without needing to be prompted by someone else. I think clearing the path and creating a space for people outside of those who look like you is really important. LaTimberly: I feel like people think they’re taking a chance by offering a drop shipping relationship or a consignment relationship and that’s not really taking a chance. We have inventory to sell and we want to have a real opportunity not just half-assed. We want a full chance; a partnership is what really needs to happen.

We both want something great to come out of this so I don’t want to feel as if I have to do all this amount of work and you’re not recognizing my work because you don’t want to pay me or you don’t want to help me through this. If we’re going to work together, we work together. As these industry professionals discussed during the webinar, in 2020 it is near impossible to avoid the topic of Black Lives Matter (BLM) and diversifying the lingerie industry. Amber explained that if you don't want to “get into politics” you don't need to discuss BLM or defunding the police on your page but what you do need to understand is America is a kaleidoscope of people and you cannot ignore or pretend an entire population of people don’t exist. This movement is about evening out the playing field allowing everyone to have the chance to succeed, added Tina. Brands need to step back as human beings and evaluate why murder makes them uncomfortable, continued LaTimberly. As human beings it’s normal to have these conversations in order for things to get better, sayed Wen. Rosa continued to say the conversation makes some people uncomfortable, and that is okay, but you must educate yourself on why this makes you uncomfortable and have conversations with each other to overcome this. Curve encourages you to not only to listen to BIPOC in the industry but continue the conversation to make changes within your companies in order for a better future.

Webinar Replay Visit the Curve website to review the entire webinar: www.curve-newyork.com/past-webinars

Wen: A partnership should not be one-sided. What I give you, I also want something in return because we’re partners. R EVEALED

Welcome to

The New Normal

While it is impossible to know for sure what this new reality will bring, one thing is clear: nothing will, nor should, remain the same. B Y Patricia Maeda

The COVID-19 pandemic has created a global health crisis, generating an immense ripple effect that goes well beyond the pandemic itself, affecting the global economy, industries of all sectors and society at large. As people across the globe sheltered in place due to precautionary measures, the home environment became the hub where work, play and rest seamlessly coexisted within four walls. Women have rediscovered how clothes can actually be comfortable. We embraced sweatpants, replaced stiff underwire bras with soft bralettes, and ditched thongs for comfy briefs. Not surprisingly, in response to external stressors, cozy loungewear and comfortable underwear became the fashion equivalent of comfort food. Looking ahead, the quest for comfort will extend well beyond quarantine and will most certainly be amplified by the lifestyle changes brought about by the current situation. Shoppers will look for comfortability and practicality in products that can truly better our everyday lives. Brands like Chantelle are pivoting business by promoting a line of one-size-fits-all underwear with high performance elasticity that combines the perfect fit with ultimate comfort. Others like upcoming brands Mary Young and Clo Intimo focus on eliminating uncomfortable elastic bands and underwire with soft bralettes in bamboo jersey and stretchy microfiber, while Evelyn & Bobbie’s wireless bras shift the weight of the breasts to the ribcage, providing all-day comfort. Coupled with a generation obsessed with “self care,” this lifestyle change also points to a valuable opportunity for brands and manufacturers to leverage fabric innovation that delivers restorative benefits and wellness-boosting features. Sleepwear brands like Bare Slumber and Dagsmejan promote thermoregulating fabrics that absorb body heat, converting it into far infrared energy. This process helps increase blood flow and accelerate muscle recovery during sleep. Similarly, lifestyle brand Skin offers slippers with nanoparticles of jade within the fabric that lowers body temperature by up to 10 degrees. When we spend over one-third of our lives in bed, clothes that optimize wellbeing become an integral part of the self-care regime.

clothes that, while comfortable, are far more elaborate than sweatpants. After months in quarantine, there will be a need to ‘dress-up,’ and as the boundaries of private and social lives become increasingly blurred, old pajamas and baggy tess will no longer be desirable. The category of trendy loungewear, which has quickly grown in the past few years thanks to hyped DTC brands like Lunya and Emily Ratajkowski’s Inamorata, will likely get a boost in the post-pandemic reality. Driven by a need for fashionable innerwear that truly functions for modern life (from bed to brunch), the new lifestyle decisively replaces athleisure with more sophisticated silhouettes to cater to the style-conscious woman. It’s time to stop hitting the snooze button and awaken to a new world of fashionable silhouettes, quality materials, and functional details. Brands such as Ginia and V.O.She have fully embraced the niche market between sleepwear and ready-to-wear by providing high quality silk camisoles and sets that easily transition from the bedroom to the streets. In addition, as intimate apparel definitively crosses from the private to the public sphere, brands should promote products that not only deliver the comfort element, but are stylish enough to be worn as outerwear. From peeking bralettes to on-display bodysuits for festival season, lingerie brands like Cosabella are leveraging social media to showcase how bodysuits and bralettes can be paired with skirts and jeans for a full look. No matter which trends you choose to suit your customer, there’s no arguing that the pandemic will decisively change how we dress. Going forward, it’s crucial that intimates brands shift focus from product to consumer, fully understanding how this unique experience has shifted needs, behaviors and lifestyles. Ultimately, it is through our intimate layers that we unveil our most vulnerable needs and start to rebuild a new sense of self for the future.

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6 Lingerie

Art Trends

Art influences our everyday lives, for some of these designer's art has inspired their collections creating wearable pieces of art. 01

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THE LIT TLE BR A COMPANY

The Little Bra Company has been inspired by Luc Leestemaker, a Dutch-American painter. His artwork can be described as influenced by Abstract Expressionism and the CoBra Movement. His deep horizons and use of color, both bold and soft, inspire their collections. More personally, Emily Lau, owner of TLBC, shared her life with Leestemaker from 2005 to 2012. When he passed away, he become the inspiration behind The Little Bra Company. Leestemaker encouraged Lau to start her dream of making lingerie for petite body types. Th rough his strong work ethic and his belief in Lau, she was able to build a company from a bedroom in their home into a premier worldwide brand known for providing better-fitting lingerie for this niche customer. His artwork fills their office headquarters and reminds Lau and her team every day to bring beauty, heart and joy into everything we do. ISSUE#3

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AUBADE

Undress Code has been creating a few art capsules inspired by different artists. Some of these artists include Mondrian and Kandinsky. Undress Code also is inspired by geometric shapes and includes them throughout theirs lines as well as their campaigns to tell the story about the lingerie pieces.

AUBADE

For AW20, Aubade has invited Chinese-artist Hong Wai to collaborate. Together they have redefined the frontier between art and lingerie. They have created a special edition line to represent a bond between two cultures. Best known for her skillful use of the ancient Chinese tradition of ink painting and calligraphy, Hong Wai brings the lingerie design in the world of contemporary ink art, poetically waxing on the woman as her canvas. Related to the philosophy of traditional Chinese ink painting, the voluptuous female body in Wai’s work is like a cosmic body, where brush lines create the movement and force which restores the vitality. There’s a relationship between the emptiness and fullness both real and imagined. Here showcased in all its sensuality, lingerie captures the voluptuous beauty of a female body.

KILO BR AVA

Kilo Brava always has fun incorporating prints and patterns. They love getting inspired by vintage wallpaper prints, and most recently renaissance inspired oversized florals. Color is also very important to Kilo Brava as they weave and merchandise a collection together. They make sure the solid colors they offer always go back to the prints, making it super easy for their buyers to have a gorgeously curated collection that encourages customers to purchase more styles so they can mix & match.

CHRISTINE LINGERIE

KILO BR AVA

Christine Lingerie’s collections include prints exclusive to them, many of which have been inspired by Japanese woodblock art, botanical studies, or watercolor florals.

MONIQUE MORNIN

THE LIT TLE BR A COMPANY

MONIQUE MORIN

Finding balance and harmony is at the heart of Monique Morin’s creative process. She finds beauty in combining bold components to delicate material, accentuating the soft body curve with sharp angular cut outs. The upcoming Wild Lace collection builds on this concept of “opposites attract” by combining ultra-wide and soft elastic bands to a refined floral lace. Colors are always carefully edited for their product assortment. Morin, their Creative Director, refers to her color edits as “The Essentials.” Their blues are denim friendly; they look stunning paired with apparel and complement all women. Monique Morin makes sure to vet each new color though a review process from their multi-cultural team to ensure the color is flattering on a broad range of skin tones.

CHRISTINE LINGERIE

A look inside Entos: Interview with the talended founder Fernanda Mena BY

The Curve Team

We sat down with Fernanda to talk; she generously shared her next collection and the inpirations behind it.

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Entos Founder

Fernanda Mena

"Entos means inside in Greek. I chose this meaning because I truly believe that it's not about the way we physically look, but it is about the way we emotionally feel."

Could you introduce yourself and your brand in a few sentences? My name is Fernanda Mena, I´m 23 years old and I am studying Industrial Design. Entos was born in 2018 from my desire to bring out the hidden beauty in each woman. First it started as a dream that I now live daily with greater goals to achieve day after day. I want my designs to inspire the lingerie world and showcase inclusivity, artfulness but also be provocative and wearable. What is the meaning behind Entos? Entos comes from the Greek word "inside". I chose this meaning because I truly believe that is not about the way we physically look, but it is about the way we emotionally feel. I wanted to create a brand for all body types, for all women, because we all are different kinds of beautiful. Fernanda, you created Entos while you were still in school, what inspired you to start at such a young age? I´ve always loved fashion, I had the opportunity two years ago to work with a very recognized Spanish designer in Madrid “Agatha Ruiz de la Prada”, I was working in design, My team and I made the patterns, the prints, in addition to creating the whole idea and scenario for Madrid Fashion Week. It was an amazing experiences, and Ruiz de la Prada was a inspiring teacher. Consequently, I wanted to combine my two passions lingerie and fashion. The Entos brand was created to change women’s mentalies and perspectives about themselves. What was your ﬁrst collection about? I am very passionate about Art, so I am inspired by different artists in each collection. For example, my first collection was inspired in Edgar Degas, who was a passionate about ballerinas and ballet. I was inspired by his paintings and created a ballet collection with translucent fabrications and elegant silhouettes that were adaptable to different body types.

What is your biggest source of inspiration? I’m amazed by classical art and history. I always try to study artists, paintings, and sculptures from a specific art mouvements. Each piece celebrates creativity, opening a world with endless possibilities. How would you deﬁne Entos' style? Classy and Elegant. What will be the theme of your next collection? What can we expect? My next theme is about Marie Antonette, liberation and women breaking stereotypes through time. You can expect a very elegant and edgy collection. What steps are you taking towards inclusivity? I´m already expanding to offer a wider range of sizes and garment structures for different body types. I am also working on visual and social media representing inclusivity of sizes, races and ideologies. What are your brands ethics and values? EN-AMOR-ARTE (IN LOVE WITH ART): we are proud to create beauty through our talent. DISRUPTIVE: Never be satisfied you can always improve; we want you to be surprise with memorable details. TRANSCEND: We want to focus ourselves in valuable results in everything we do. Always being grateful for the opportunity to be better each day. BEING COHERENT: We try to be honest and transparent, working hard to make possible what seems impossible. Are you taking steps towards sustainability? I have done several things, the first one is that I changed the packaging for a travel bag. I have stopped using plastic or boxes. I developed a new packaging that you can use for traveling or to safely keep your garments at home.

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In my collection, I´m currently using green label and recycled fabrics. I make special styles with fabric that is unusable for larger quantities. Entos practices sustainability by offering versatile pieces that can be used in many different ways. For example, a robe that you can wear with your swimwear, as a nightgown or as street style. I focus on designing with multiple end uses. You don't need to buy three different pieces, you just buy one that you can wear three different ways. You won the Pitch Off event at the February 2020 Curve New York show– congratulations! Did it help you get more exposure and business from lingerie buyers? Yes, it was an amazing experience! Entos is a new brand and this award helped raise brand awareness and gave exposure with key buyers. How have you been impacted by COVID-19? What have you done to overcome these challenges? It has a difficult months. I reinvented my company making facemasks and surgical gowns to support the fight against COVID-19. At the same time, I developed a loungewear collection with an influencer who became the image of the campaign and gave the collection more exposure in México. The partnership worked very well. I think we need to readapt our industry for the needs we have being facing. I am very positive about this situation, we will come out stronger together again. ENTOS

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Anita USA | 1-800-866-6223 Anita Canada | 1-800-465-4272 anita.com |

Sports Bras

The Leading Edge of Activewear

Sports bras have a lot in common with sneakers. Both call for complex design, aerodynamic construction, and a balance between support and comfort. B Y Linda Dyett

Sports bras have a lot in common with sneakers. Both call for complex design, aerodynamic construction, and a balance between support and comfort. They are essential for a wide range of athletic and fitness activities. Both have expanded into the lounge-y athleisure universe, where they've acquired style status and become daily at-home and street-wear. And like sneakers, sports bras are major sellers, outselling all other intimates during the first few months of Covid-19. No wonder Euromonitor predicts a doubling of growth in that arena through 2024. Currently, Wacoal sports bra sales are currently up by double digits. Freya and Elomi, known for their expert fit, have seen their sales almost double. Pour Moi, with its extensive size range, reports exponential growth in activewear sales. "Pre-crisis, this category was already on an upward trajectory, but due to rapid lifestyle changes, it went crazy," reports Krista Tonra, Pour Moi's U.S. sales director. Why is this happening now? For one thing, women furloughed from their jobs or otherwise sequestered at home suddenly have ample time for all those see-and-be-seen Zoom exercise classes, for FaceTiming, gardening, and just lounging around. Sports bras suit all these activities. "Women are looking for function with benefits," says Octavio Quintana, Leonisa USA's executive vice president. A matching sports bra and compression leggings, color-blocked, maybe, or in a tie dye or floral print constitute a new uniform: the 2020 power suit. While activewear includes everything from tanks, crop tops and hoodies to leggings, shorts, and socks; sports bras are the key items—the ones calling for extra-savvy technical expertise in providing all-important bounce control. Jiggle, the enemy here, not only interferes with performance, but can be harmful to breast tissue and ligaments. But here's the tricky part: these bras shouldn't feel restrictive. Intimates brands produce what many regard as the best sports bras, the ones most likely to fit properly, and least likely to cause the dreaded, squished-in mono-bosom look. Unlike athletic and fashion brands, generally sized S to XL, lingerie brands

typically use alphanumeric sizing and are just about the only ones that accommodate cup sizes beyond DD—for which there is a growing demand and supply. As Miryha Fantegrossi, Wacoal America's Vice President of Design and Merchandising, puts it, "Anyone above a C cup should absolutely wear an alphanumeric size bra. Alpha size bras smash everything down rather than properly support breast tissue." Sports bras from lingerie specialists may well use up to fifty components, assembled in dozens of steps by specialists in styling and construction—with or without underwires. For Sarah and Michael Wiener, owners of Trousseau, a bra specialty shop in Vienna, Virginia, "Sports bras must have a rigid band, to avoid bouncing, plus support anchoring from the sides, and a multiple hook closure—or else they'll loosen up and lose support." Details are also likely to include wide padded shoulder straps, a racer or crisscross back, and flat seams. As for fabric, it's likely to be breathable, wicking, antimicrobial, and lightweight, with power mesh cutouts for ventilation (as well as design), and possibly UV protection too (a sure sign that these bras are meant to be seen). Now here's a curious fact about sports bra sales: they're split among several different retail/e-tail categories: lingerie specialists, apparel and specialty fitness dealers (like Nike, New Balance, Sweaty Betty, and Bandier), and fashion venues with activewear collections (Anthropologie, Cos, Uniqlo). Then there's an emerging fourth category—easywear verticals, like Aerie (an American Eagle offshoot) in the U.S.A. and in Europe, Tezenis (under the Calzedonia umbrella). The comfort-oriented stock in trade at these 21st century retailers is a mix of activewear and innerwear that morphs into outerwear.

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Why such a clear-cut distribution divide and why are sports bras from intimates brands such a secret from so many women engaged in fitness activities? One answer: Almost no intimates brands are carried by athletic stores and fashion-oriented retailers. These businesses "underestimate the value of proper support in a sports bra—which involves carrying the full size range," proposes Joy Haizen, managing director of Anita USA. Both athletic apparel dealers and many of their customers lack education about bra fit. "But lingerie stores have the fitting expertise with cups and bands," she adds. There is another possible reason for this split: The intimates category, which got its start in curve-enhancing corsetry, to this day carries the alluring and sensual whiff of lacy lingerie, of balconettes and garter belts. Women's activewear, by contrast, prioritizes muscle tone, function, and the romance of brand identity. The Nike Swoosh and the Adidas trefoil have a definite cachet. But eager to attract athletic store customers, many intimates brands have expanded their sports bra selections beyond the traditional black, white, and nude underwear colors to include vivid brights, subtle pastels, of-the-moment color blocking, statement prints, and strategically placed cutouts. A growing number offer sustainably made products in recycled fabrics. Some follow the lead of posture-correcting brands like IFGfit and Intelliskin, and are delving into alignment bras and leggings. Many are hooking up with brand ambassadors and influencers; and some, especially the smaller, more agile digital natives like Evelyn & Bobbie, excel in social media marketing and online sales.

A N I TA Anita is an award-winning 130-year-old family-run brand with a strong focus on fit. All its designs and product development are done at its headquarters in Brannenburg, Germany. One of Anita Active's top three countries in the U.S. as noted by Joy Haizen from Anita U.S.A. her office consistently provides sports bra and activewear market intelligence. This includes information on active colors, fashion, and lifestyle trends. What's more, Haizen and her staff "point out voids and opportunities in the US market and relay our retailer requests." The Anita Active collection specializes in wireless, ultra-lightweight sports bras whose SKUs range in size from an AA to an H cup. But encouraged by retailers, the new Extreme Control Plus style goes up to a K and features five-part cups, elastic side panels, strategic ventilation zones, a supportive double strap system, and power mesh lining at the back. Suitable for smaller breasts the lightweight Air Control DeltaPad, with patented foam cups, a soft underbust band, sealed seams and, again, that power mesh back. Legging-wise, Anita Sports Tights are made of a textured compression fabric (for relieving muscle strain) with built-in 3D nubs, which almost feel like a refined, circulation-boosting shiatsu massage. This company's technical fabrications may be the best in the business, according to Trousseau's Sarah and Michael Wiener. Anita's newest sports collection features matching high-impact bras and compres-

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sion and massage leggings in python and tattoo prints. "The more we add fashion, the bigger the response we get," says Anita USA's Joy Haizen. And as Danny Koch, owner of the Town Shop in New York, points out, here is a brand that's "very creative with colors and so committed to its styles that they're re-colored multiple times a year." What's more, Anita Active is sold at athletic retailers. In New York, it's available at Paragon Sports; nationwide, it's at Fleet Feet, a chain with over 180 branches. Fleet Feet's director of Merchandise Planning and Analytics, Catherine Moloznik, says "Anita bridges the gap between elegant looking lingerie and activewear, and caters to a demographic that loves a bra with back hooks." These athletic dealers are provided by Anita with fit-centric training sessions. The lingerie retailers, meanwhile receive Anita's yoga- and running-inspired display mannequins.

LEONISA Based in Colombia, Octavio Quintana and his U.S. crew have major input in this company's R&D and designs. The house specialty is shapewear with a sleek, fashion-conscious, body-contouring edge, made of luxurious-to-the-touch, multi-way stretch fabrics. This year Leonisa introduced items like the Eco-Friendly Recycled Sports Bra, with a mesh front and open back, and the Eco-Friendly High-Waisted Shaper Legging--both made from recycled plastic bottles. "The collection completely sold out," notes Quintana. The current bestseller, the Back Support Posture Corrector Wireless Bra, recommended by Hola! Magazine, not only is a boon for improving yoga and weightlifting posture, but is worn by many women at their laptops, to help undo back curvature. Another favorite is the torso-slimming ActiveLife Extra-HiWaist Firm Compression Legging with PowerSlim technology, minimal seaming, a midsection lining that tones the waist and tummy, and strategically designed anti-squash rear end shaping. Customers buy it in multiple colors. "By far the best fitting and feeling leggings I’ve ever worn," said one customer, "It's also ideal worn with crop tops."

WACOAL Headquartered in Japan, with a separate U.S. design team in New York, has a top-selling powerhouse fitness bra for the American market: the no-nonsense, high-impact, compressive Sport Underwire Bra. Doubling as a minimizer with total breast containment, it's unique in having its wires float on the outside, making it chafe-less. With its molded cups, it not only makes for bounce-free horseback riding and kickboxing, but looks good beneath a lace or chiffon blouse. Also popular: the High Impact Convertible Underwire Sports Bra, similarly built with compressive, encapsulated cups. This style has adjustable stretch straps that convert to racerback and color-contrast edging— both of which make it a Zoom favorite.

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Out of the U.K., "Freya makes great bras for the full-busted narrow to average figure" said Trousseau's Sarah and Michael Wiener. The brand is known for its best-selling Sonic Sports Bra, with air spacer cups that mold to the body yet remain breathable. Another plus is an all-around sling for maximum support. A popular new style is the unlined, ultra-lightweight Dynamic Wirefree Hi-Impact Sports Bra in an extended size range, with more colors arriving this fall. Then there's the Kinetic Legging, whose wide waistband has deep-set elastic for torso support. This style comes in various surface designs. Most striking are the Reflective Twisting model, with a slimming meandering vertical stripe, and the Smoke model, whose swirling blue lower leg print makes the wearer look like she's knee deep in a trompe l'oeil lagoon.

A favorite of athletes founded in Australia 110 years ago, Berlei offers the extreme impact Underwire Padded Bra, with compression design, perforated cups for cooling, no-dig swivel straps, and space for a heart rate monitor. Bounce reduction is said to be 60 percent— great for kickboxing, horseback riding, and distance running.

PA NACHE Also British, Panache is widely considered a leader in largecup underwire sports bras. Utilizing advanced biomechanical technology research, these bras have been shown to reduce bounce by 83 percent. The Town Shop's Danny Koch calls the Full-Busted Underwire Sports Bra "a real go-to in an astounding size range"—up to 40GG, in a variety of solids and prints. The Medium Control Wire-Free Sports Bra, with racerback-J-hook conversion, comes in solids and a striking neon reptile print.

FA L K E CHANTELLE Based in France, Chantelle launches its full-coverage High Impact Active Bra—up to an H cup—this November. Its "stay cool" cup spacer technology provides maximum lift, lightness, and breathability, while the back emphasizes smoothness, and a J-hook adds to its functionality. Th is bra is smooth and sleek enough to offer daylong wearability, even outside the gym. As noted by Christin Russo, vice president of Planning and Merchandising at Chantelle Lingerie, Inc., this company "has a long history of listening to consumer needs in the U.S. market, and the development of this new sports bra is no exception. We are a very data-driven company, and use both qualitative and quantitative insights into consumer behavior in the U.S., both online and offline, to best inform our Global Marketing Team based in Paris."

ELOMI British as well, for many years Elomi has been a trusted non-compression brand for larger cup sizes. types. Customers love its smooth-contour Energise Underwire Sports Bra with J Hook, ranging from 32D to 46K. Plus, the cup fabric is both moisture-wicking and stain-resistant.

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A German brand dating back to 1895, Falke excels in "soft, comfortable, high-quality knitwear," according to Trousseau's Sarah and Michael Weiner. Its activewear includes bras, ergonomic tops, jackets, anti-fatigue compression tights, and runner's socks. All its sports bras are seamless. The standout Versatility Maximum Support Women Sport-Bra is a racerback with a locked zip-front closure.

SIMONE PERELE The chic French brand known for its mid-size bra expertise, Simone Perele recently introduced its first sports style, the Harmony Underwire, in High and Medium support versions. The High version has a racerback hook, and a U-shaped ballet back. The Medium features a breathable mesh back, removable cups, and a pullover racerback with a keyhole cutout for air flow.

POUR MOI A British brand that arrived in the U.S. last September, Pour Moi offers a wide array of cup sizes. The Rachel High Impact Underwire Sports Bra, with foam-lined cups and J-hook racerback converter, goes up to size 40GG and has a high style IQ for its vivid color blocking.

The above rundown deals mostly with high- and medium-impact bras. When it comes to low-impact activities like weight training and yoga, the emphasis is on gentle support, softness, and pliability. Bras that excel in these areas are Wacoal's B-Smooth and Chantelle's Soft Stretch collections, as well as two styles from Miel, a newcomer in Canada by way of Colombia: the Racer Racerback and the Lele styles with their quick-drying fabric treated with plant-based antimicrobials. One final bra, worn both for general use and low impact fitness, is the seamless, over-the-head Defy model from Evelyn & Bobbie, a recently established supplier in Portland, Oregon. With the Defy, the breasts are enveloped in an inner 'sling' that replaces traditional underwires in our patented EM EB Core, according to Bree McKeen, Evelyn & Bobbie's founder and CEO. This alpha-sized bra also keeps the breasts secure with high sides and a well-structured criss-cross V-back. Almost morphing into an abbreviated second-skin tank top, the Defy signals a new direction in sports bras design. Already, "sales have been beyond our wildest imagination," says McKeen, adding that sizes are going up to 3X, and new colors and unique molded, removable pads will soon appear.

FR E YA

LEONISA

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PL AY OUT A PPA R EL

Genderless brands

To Keep on Your Radar

We sat down with three brands that are doing things differently. They told us why they felt the need to create a genderless intimate brand and shared their vision for the future of design in the lingerie industry. B Y The Curve Team

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Play Out

Apparel

"We are an underwear and athleisure brand, with no need for the binary of gender." FOUNDER & CO-OWNER E. LEIFER & ABBY SUGAR

E. LEIFER

ABBY SUGER

Preferred pronouns: They/Them Co- Owner & CDO, Liz started their career as a painter and scenic artist, transitioning into film production & creative direction in fashion. They held positions as Product styling Manager for Net-A-Porter & Mr. Porter and as Director of Creative Production at Intermix. As a non-binary member of the trans community and veteran in the industry, Liz utilizes their experiences to learn and grow with the industry as a private brand consultant and stylist.

Preferred pronouns: She/Her Founder and CEO of Play Out Apparel. She launched Play Out's first styles in 2014, as the first and only gender-equal underwear brand to show at Lingerie Fashion Week. As an outgoing, unapologetically queer startup founder, she strives to be a leading voice in and for the LGBTQ+ community. Abbyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entrepreneurial spirit and unique personal style give her an outsiderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advantage in the world of fashion.

Explore

the entire Play Out Apparel collection at www.playoutapparel.com

PL AY OUT A PPA R EL

TELL US ABOUT YOUR BR AND. Play Out Apparel is a brand that works with men, women, trans- and gender-free individuals of all backgrounds, ethnicities, gender presentations, and sexual orientations. We believe that queer fashion, is simply fashion. We do not apply gender to our lingerie – we are gender equal – and we provide styles of underwear for everyone. We believe that self-expression, sexuality and play are very important. We want people to feel comfortable and stylish being their authentic selves. We are also working to move our brand, which is founded on inclusion and diversity, into mainstream fashion as an accepted, included part of the industry.

IN THE PA ST Y E A R S , HAVE YOU NOTICED A SHIF T IN HOW LEGAC Y BR ANDS LGBTQ

HAVE

INCLUDED

COMMUNIT Y ’S

THE

NEEDS/

WANTS INTO THEIR DESIGNS? Mainstream brands have been subtly marketing to the LGBTQ+ community but not adapting their designs. There is an entire group of people who have not been seen in this industry. For example, there is a greater market for those who are not looking for super femme lingerie and giving other brands space to provide for this market of people is important. It is important to call out that in addition to not gendering our lingerie, Play Out does not retouch our models. We think customers should see it is normal and natural to have stretch marks, etc. Every body is beautiful, Play Out wants their customers to be seen, feel confident and comfortable when wearing lingerie.

W H AT YOUR

UNIQUE

DESIGNS,

Something that’s unique about Play Out is that we have a really close relationship with our manufacturer, and she's so supportive of us being a LGBTQ+ brand. We proudly manufacture at a female-owned and operated company in Mexico that employs queer people and people over the age of 55, which in Mexico is very rare. Our manufacturer has helped us shorten our supply chain to reduce our environmental impact, and has already taken steps on her side to cut her carbon footprint, and has reduced excess fabric and production minimums. All of this helps us reduce our brand’s impact on the environment.

HOW

HAS

COVID-19

AFFECTED

PL AY O U T ? COVID-19 has definitely had an impact on Play Out. As an online brand, we’ve noticed an increase in sales. We’ve also been having promotions and sales of our own to help reduce costs for our customers. One specific thing we have been doing is that on Tuesdays, Play Out has a micro-influencer or local artist take over our Instagram channel. During their takeover, we provide a 10% discount code, and then the artist gets 10% of the profits (which many influencers have chosen not to take), and 10% of the profits goes to a charity of their choosing. Ultimately, Play Out is a very value and mission driven brand, whose lingerie goes beyond gender and sexuality. We believe our customers want to feel comfortable with who they are and want to celebrate themselves during this time.

ABOUT

FA B R I C S ,

M A N U FAC T U R IN G PRO CE S S ? When it comes to our designs, some of Play Out’s thongs are made with a pouch and some of our jock straps are made with a flat stitch front. This allows our customers to pick which design they are most comfortable with depending on their needs. PL AY OUT A PPA R EL

In terms of fabric, our polyester blends are breathable, moisture wicking, and have a little stretch, which helps our products maintain their shape after washing and wearing. Our micromodal and polyester blend is soft and great for digital printing. All of our prints are either hand painted by Liz or are limited edition designs from other local artists in the LGBTQ+ community.

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ORIGAMI CUSTOMS

Origami

Customs

"Completely customizable items for people across the gender spectrum." FOUNDER R AE

RAE

Preferred pronouns: They/Them "The Origami Customs line started ten years ago in a small SCUBA diving island in Honduras and has traveled with me through five cities and three countries since. I realized that so many people in my community were missing out on having affirming swimwear and underthings, so I developed a new line, with a focus on figuring out how we could offer any product for any body." As a Non-Binary Queer person, I care deeply about the needs of my community, which is why I offer completely customizable items for people across the gender spectrum. It was always important to me that none of the clothes I made were gendered, and no type of body was excluded from wearing them.

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HAVE YOU NOTICED A SHIF T IN HOW

LEGAC Y

BR ANDS

ARE

IN-

CLUDING THE LGBTQ COMMUNITY’S

NEEDS/ WANTS

INTO

THEIR

We do not purchase new material on the market or order custom material. We only use what's already in existence, so that we are not adding to the amount of material on the planet. We also buy from small, family-owned businesses and do not buy materials from overseas. Additionally, all shipments are packaged in recycled/reusable/recyclable bags.

DESIGNS? I have seen some larger brands attempt to do this, yes. After the notorious Victoria’s Secret scandal two years ago, there was an attempt by mainstream brands to appear “inclusive.” Usually, this focused on throwing one plus-size model or visibly disabled model into their marketing. LGBT issues and representation were often rolled into this image of inclusivity without any specifics as to how the brand is catering towards this market. I can’t honestly say that I’ve seen any large brands have come out with any trans-specific options yet.

HOW

HAS

COVID-19

AFFECTED

ORIGAMI CUSTOMS?

W H AT YOUR

UNIQUE

DESIGNS,

ORIGAMI CUSTOMS

We have actually experienced a joyful expansion of our business. I also noticed a shift from the core range to more of the expressive or delicate lingerie pieces. I attribute this to people wanting things that make them feel incredible in their bodies without the pressure of having to look a certain way when they go out. Moving forward, I’ve been excited to create more design-focused capsule collections, working to showcase some higher-end materials with designs that still translate to any size and shape of body.

ABOUT

FA B R I C S ,

AND

M A N U FAC T U R IN G PRO CE S S ? Origami Customs developed the first fully customizable gaff (compression undies for Transfeminine anatomy) and is now able to offer almost 300 products, which appeal to a wide range of personal aesthetics, in addition to custom orders. My idea from the beginning was to keep my designs fairly simple in style, without many embellishments. Our fabrics are chosen for their closed-loop manufacturing and sustainability. Our styles fabrics fall into four categories of fabric: locally milled Lycra blends for swimwear, compression mesh (used for binders and gaffs), sheer lace and mesh, and bamboo for our lingerie line. Our fabrics are either deadstock (headed for landfill), recycled, or regenerative (in the case of bamboo, for example). Recently we launched capsule collections featuring limited and vintage fabrics, like antique bridal lace, metallic lace, velvet, chiffon, and gold hardware.

Explore the entire Origami Customs collection at www.origamicustoms.com

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Rebirth

Garments

"A line of gender non-conforming clothing for the full spectrum of gender, size and ability." FOUNDER SKY CUBACUB

SKY CUBACUB

Preferred pronouns: They/Them I am a non-binary queer and disabled Filipinx human from Chicago, IL. I’m 28 years old and I started my clothing line in the summer of 2014, debuting on Etsy that November, and it became my full time job in May 2015 after I graduated from college.

Explore

the entire Rebirth Garments collection at www.rebirthgarments.com

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TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOUR

W H AT

BR AND.

D E S I G N S , FA B R I C S , O R M A N U FAC-

Rebirth Garments is a line of gender non-conforming clothing for the full spectrum of gender, size, and ability. I actually dreamt of making gender affirming garments when I was in high school and couldn’t access a chest binder (a garment used to flatten the chest, typically used by transmasculine people). Accessibility to gender affirming clothing is severely limited for those without a credit card to shop online or an ID that allows them into the adult spaces where such clothing is typically located. And even when I could access binders, I was disappointed by their medicalized appearance and feel, so I decided to serve both needs in order to make an intersectional clothing line unlike any other.

UNIQUE

ABOUT

YOUR

TURING PROCESS? The majority of my customers are disabled people (including apparent/non-apparent disabilities), people with sensory sensitivities, transgender/non-binary people, and fat/plussized people. Garments can be made with the seams on the outside for people with sensory sensitivities, or pockets to hold gender affirming prosthetics or insulin pumps. Everything is made from stretch fabric, making it easy to slip on, accommodate weight fluctuation, and facilitate full-range movement. In addition to meeting a specific functional need, Rebirth Garments are made to fulfill the custom aesthetic needs of my clients. I love to make clothing in bright colors and power clashing, dazzle camo patterns in spandex. My signaC EST KEV VIE FOR REBIRTH GARMENTS

I challenge mainstream beauty standards that center cisgender, heterosexual, white, thin, and able-bodied/minded people, by using the ideology of my Radical Visibility Manifesto as a guide, and by centering queer and disabled people of all sizes, ethnicities, and ages. Rebirth Garments embodies Radical Visibility through the use of bright colors, patterns, and innovative designs that accentuate instead of hiding our bodies.

H AV E YOU NOTICED A SHIF T IN HOW LEGAC Y BR ANDS ARE INCLUDING THE LGBTQ COMMUNIT Y ’S NEEDS/ WANTS INTO THEIR DESIGNS? There are a good amount of gender neutral collections that big fashion companies have been creating lately, but Rebirth Garments’ clients are people whose functional and fashion needs are not adequately met by mainstream clothing. I’m more interested in moving the talk away from companies offering a whole new gender-neutral line that is separate, to just not gendering their clothing and categorizing everything by the type of garment (for example: here is the pants section, dresses section, shirts section, etc). A lot of this has to start with how fashion is taught in schools. Teaching fashion should not be teaching “womenswear and menswear,” it should be teaching how to pattern-make for any kind of body type.

HOW HA S COVID-19 AFFECTED REBIRTH GARMENTS? At first my sales went down, but then at the start of May my sales really jumped. I guess people want to support small businesses, which is awesome!

ture style is a lot of color-blocking. I’m still trying to source nice organic stretch cotton in fun colors. So far, I haven’t been very successful, but I have a couple options for special requests. I definitely only want to work in stretch - rather than non-stretch or woven fabric - because that is what I feel most comfortable and confident in making, and that is the type of specialized machinery I have. Feeling confident in one’s outward appearance can revolutionize one’s emotional and political reality, thus, I use Rebirth Garments as a way to nurture a community of people who have often been excluded from mainstream fashion and provide a platform for people to confidently express pride in their identity. In the face of what society tells them to hide, my clients are unapologetic individuals who want to celebrate and highlight their bodies. Instead of hiding the aspects of their identity that make them unique, Rebirth clients are Radically Visible.

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Sustainability

Practices to Implement

Sustainability continues to drive the conversation throughout the lingerie and fashion industry Changes are necessary in order to preserve the planet. Here are some practices companies have implemented to be more sustainable. We encourage you all to do the same. We only have one planet so let's make lasting changes for generations to come.

LEONISA

MONIQUE MORIN

R EUS IN G M ATER I A L S LEONISA

Leonisa is excited to announce a new collection of products designed to help clean up the Earth. The planet is contaminated by 680 billion polyethylene terephthalate (PET) bottles each year. Each one of these bottles takes more than 100 years to break down. Only 57.6% of these PET bottles are recycled throughout the world. Leonisa has committed to reducing the environmental damage that is created by plastic. Leonisa has created a new line of products made of synthetic fibers that come from recycled PET bottles. In order to create these pieces, Leonisa has collaborated with Enka, a company that takes plastic products and transforms them into fibers, which then become the threads that are used in Leonisa’s sustainable line. The brand’s Love for the Planet collection, currently includes a sports bra, leggings, boxer brief, shaper panty, and a new line of Leonisa swimwear. MONIQUE MORIN

Monique Morin finds it important to carry out sustainable practices throughout their production process. The company has a “buy just what you need approach” to avoid waste from the manufacturing cycle to inventory. They also use what is called “dead stock”, which are materials that are left in quantities too small to be of interest to large retailers. When possible, Monique Morin uses pre-dyed components to reduce water pollution. They especially love having the opportunity to use sustainable textiles as seen in their Caress collection. The Caress collection is made of modal, which is plant-based fabric that requires 10 times less water than cotton to produce. In one of their more recent collections, Wild Lace, they were able to integrate recycled fiber content and bio-based material from renewable castor plants.

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SOAK

Since 2012, Soak has reduced their environmental impact by using 100% post-consumer resin bottles. By using recycled plastic for their bottles, Soak diverts over six tons of virgin plastic each year reducing carbon footprint by 15.6 tons of CO2e. Soak introduced in 2019 the Eco Wash Bag. Made out of 100% RPET, each bag is made from at least eight recycled plastic bottles. Within the first production run, over 100,000 plastic bottles have already been diverted from oceans and landfills protecting thousands of wildlife normally affected by plastic bottles.

FA B R I C S A N D DY E S HANK Y PANK Y

In 2018, Hank Panky launched Lingeriecycle™, their sustainability initiative to help divert worn out, no longer wearable bras and panties from landfills. Items sent for recycling are finely shredded. Metal items such as underwires and hooks are separated out by magnets and sent to a metal recycler. Fabric components are ultimately converted into carpet padding. Their partnership with NYC-based FabScrap results in recycling and re-purposing of a portion of our textile waste.

THE UNDER ARGUMENT

Hanky Panky uses sustainably grown Supima® and organically grown domestic cotton fibers in their lingerie and sleepwear. Their USA-grown cottons are produced under the CottonLEADS(SM) sustainability initiative and have a smaller environmental impact than many imported cottons. All of Hanky Panky’s cotton knit fabrics are knitted, dyed and finished in the Southeast USA, using low-impact fiber reactive dyes, which do not contain toxic chemicals. These dyes have a high absorption rate, and use less water than conventional dyeing, resulting in an eco-friendly process which adheres to American environmental regulations. Additionally, their Signature Laces are knitted, dyed, and finished in the USA with low impact dyes.

S LOW FA S H I O N THE UNDER ARGUMENT

The Underargument operates with a slow fashion mindset, producing "on demand" to avoid dead stock. Although they currently offer 40 sizes of bras (vs 8 last year) and are looking to increase this number as they grow, The Underargument only starts producing certain sizes when they have demand and through pre-orders. It is a great way to educate the customer on the production process and how long it takes to "make things". Sustainability for The Underargument also means the preservation of the craft, which is why, although these materials aren't organic, we get all our embroideries and mesh from France, Switzerland and Italy. Additionally, they choose their factory not only based on the quality of their work but also the way they give back to their local community. The Underargument’s factory gives back through the Sekool Foundation which runs educational programs for impoverished children in Antananarivo, Madagascar.

FA I R T R E AT M E N T O F WO R K E R S SKIN

Skin works with small factories in Peru, where they have a close relationship with their factory owners in order to ensure their employees have safe working conditions and the staff is fairly treated. Skin pays fair wages for the work and garments that they contract. Skin assures that their partners are making a profit from their business relationship and negotiate their prices with those standards. They share their business success with their manufacturing partners. Skin has worked with artisans and supported local indigenous crafts and industry in Peru. Skin is proud to create jobs and economic well-being for people across countries. SKIN

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Beyond Lingerie Brands are going above and beyond the norm of creating lingerie, learn what these brands have done to give back to their communities and the environment .

LO U L E T T E L I N G E R I E : S U S TA I N A B L E CHANGES

LOULETTE

Loulette has been working very hard to make some important changes. In terms of collections they are switching most silks to recycled and sustainable fabrics. They are also transitioning more of their production to be made in house so that they can minimize the amount of fabric waste and produce less excess inventory. On the organization front, Loulette has been working with Fast Feet NYC, an organization that helps children and adults with mental and physical disabilities. They have been raising money for the Black Lives Matter movement and to date has raised over $52,000. “Being a Black female, I find it important for myself to do what I can now in order to make a positive change for the future of Black people in the states and in the world,” says owner and designer LaTimberly Johnson.

C A L I D A : A T R U LY G R E E N S T O R Y

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CALIDA

Calida presents the exclusive "We want a better world" C2C capsule collection with luxury fashion label Viktor&Rolf, a truly green story, a 100% compostable collection for a better world. Expanding on their mission to merge conscious design with spectacular beauty, the avant-garde luxury brand Viktor&Rolf joins forces with the Swiss premium underwear label CALIDA to present an innovative and vibrant collection crafted out of carefully curated materials. The two bring their creativity and expertise together to create a truly green story—the first of its kind. Th is 100% compostable collection embraces a unique Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM approach to design, which follows nature’s model of circulating resources in a healthy, efficient way. The whole collection is both Made in Green by Oeko-Tex® and Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM, thus fulfilling the very highest sustainability standards.

O N P O I N T M A N U FAC T U R I N G

w e i v r Inte "At On Point Manufacturing, we quickly saw how an on-demand model would benefit the environment and eliminate waste."

To talk about how OnPoint began, we need to talk a little about the book manufacturing industry. Kirby Best, Chairman of On Point, dedicated 35 years of his career to revolutionizing book manufacturing, the book supply chain and book information analysis. What people don’t realize is there are extraordinary similarities between the book and apparel industries. He start many of his speeches with the question: “Can you name a product that is made out of fabric and is cut, sewn, folded and shipped directly to the customer?” Everybody says a suit, a shirt or a blouse, and his reply was: “actually a hard cover book.” A hard cover book is made out of cloth and is cut, sewn, folded and pressed". They quickly saw how an on-demand model would benefit the environment and eliminate waste. The book industry had very similar issues to the apparel industry in that there were warehouses full of unsold books that would end up being destroyed if they didn’t sell. There was the added benefit that with on-demand a product theoretically never goes “out of print.” On-demand allows any book to stay in print forever and the same is true for the apparel industry. Our on-demand model allows any garment to be reordered at a later time. Using this experience, when Kirby left the book industry, he began a small manufacturing business of performance sleepwear. This was really in direct response to a need his wife had, due to an illness, for sleepwear that was moisture wicking, comfortable and looked nice. At the time, moisture wicking fabrics were far from mainstream. They were only

used for professional athletes who needed performance gear. As their sleepwear gained in popularity, the company transitioned into using that material to make medical uniforms. They also learned that everyone wanted something different – a pocket here, two pockets there, short sleeves, long sleeves, etc. This confirmed that personalization was really important to the customer. It was at this point that OnPoint Manufacturing was born. They moved into their current Florence, AL facility in 2014. Now in addition to medical uniforms and sleepwear, they produce high-end womenswear, this all on-demand and personalized.

A NEW BUSINESS MODEL The apparel industry has been operating on Henry Ford's in-line manufacturing system which revolutionized factories beginning in 1913. It has remained almost unchallenged since then. OnPoint takes the best of the in-line practices and adds a whole new dimension of automation, computer integration and a unique new element, "on-demand" customization. They developed a technologically advanced manufacturing and distribution system from order entry to delivery. Nearly all aspects of the manufacturing process are automated and driven by complex software systems, while retaining the fine skills of the seamstress. Each new system they implement makes their manufacturing process more efficient an helps their customers from creative concept to production faster.

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FACILIT Y IN FLOR ENCE , A L A BA M A

and warehousing of product. They also offer complete fulfillment services which eliminates multiple handling of items, reducing an item’s overall carbon footprint. It’s a highly efficient, environmentally friendly way to make clothing.

ON-DEMAND: THE NEW NORM?

They've been able to shorten the production cycle to 3-5 days and are currently working to shorten that time even further. Traditional manufacturing is typically 90/120 days for overseas production and around 45 days for domestic production. With such quick turnaround times, their model gives their customers the ability to get to market faster. They can also offer personalization options and expand their size options since their garments are not manufactured until an order is placed.

T H E M A N U FAC T U R IN G PRO CE S S “Fit is not a sizing issue. It’s an inventory issue.” This is incredibly important. OPM can fit any person in the world, but no store wants to carry that much inventory. They can’t afford it, nor would the supply chain be efficient with it. That sort of statement is the start to rethinking everything. OPM have the ability to make 40 million sizes for one garment. They're trying to figure out ways that will satisfy the customer’s fit requirements, but will not create excess inventory, multiple handling, or anything that’s inefficient or bad for the environment. Their system will allow a garment to be made exactly for an individual, rather than for a group of people that are a similar size in terms of weight and height.

They would love to say that on-demand manufacturing will become the new normal, but to think that it will take over 100% of the business. On-demand will play a very important role in the global manufacturing of goods, especially garments. But some items will always remain in mass production and will be better off mass produced, such as plain socks. But if you’re buying a blouse or a suit or shift dress, why not have it made exactly the way you want it made, the exact length you want, with the pockets where you want them, etc.? There are just so many advantages to it.

COVID-19 Back in March, OPM saw the shortage of PPE materials and wanted to do what they could to help the efforts. They have an incredibly skilled team of sewers who quickly created a mask pattern using their medical scrub fabric which is infused with an antimicrobial agent. They made the decision to switch their production lines to manufacturing masks late on a Thursday night. On Saturday they switched some equipment around, and by Sunday they were in full production and ramped up 100%. It was a very fast turnover and Kirby thinks that flexibility is important. It has been an interesting time as they shifted their process to a more traditional system manufacturing in bulk versus one-at-a-time. We’ve already begun to switch lines back to our on-demand model as PPE is starting to flood the market again from overseas. But what we’ve learned is being able to make these moves gives us what we call, “burst capacity.” Th is is the ability to maximize production in areas of high demand, like PPE. The ability to adapt quickly for burst capacity will become increasingly important in the future.

A BET TER SOLUTION FOR THE ENVIRONEMENT There is very little waste with on-demand manufacturing. The textile and apparel industries use a “push” business model, but on-demand uses a “pull” model. We manufacture a product when it has already been sold - one at a time. We’ve seen the issues that are present with excess inventory in this industry. Most inventory that sits in warehouses is never sold. What happens to it? It’s either heavily discounted, some may be recycled, or in the worst case it ends up destroyed/ burned, like we saw with Burberry a few years ago. An on-demand model eliminates the need for this excess inventory

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KIRBY BEST

MASK PRODUCTION DURING COVID-19

M A NUFAC TUR ING FACILIT Y IN FLORENCE, ALABAMA

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Market Trends

2020

The NPD Group shares what's happening in apparel retail during the pandemic, and implication for intimates B Y Kristen Classi-Zummo & Todd Mick

Apparel was hit hard by the COVID-19 crisis. According to The NPD Group’s Retail Tracking Service, apparel sales declined 55% in the 6 weeks from March 22-May 2, and the women’s segment contributed to more than half these declines. However, NPD’s Kristen Classi-Zummo, Director of Market Insights & Apparel, says that when looking at individual weeks, there is a bright side. Apparel dollar declines compared to the same time last year have been gradually getting better since the week ending March 28, and some categories are actually seeing growth! As we have been staying home, consumers are opting for practical categories. In the week ending May 2, intimates, sleepwear, and underwear units grew double digits compared to the same week in 2019. During NPD’s April Curve webinar presentation, we discussed the comfort trend and how it was going to continue due to our stay-at-home behaviors. At the end of March 2020, we asked consumers what they had done within the past week while staying home: 48% said they wore activewear/sweats all day, 46% said they wore pajamas/loungewear all day, and 36% said they wore a bra less than usual*. Beyond the comfort of the items we wear, consumers are also looking for comfort in the retail stores they shop. Since only a third of consumers said they would be very/somewhat comfortable shopping in stores once stay-at-home requests are relaxed**, it’s important for retailers to be clear about the steps they are taking to keep consumers safe. Sanitation will be an important area of focus for retailers, especially with 70% of consumers indicating that being provided with sanitizing options would make them feel more comfortable to shop in-store again*** . NPD’s Todd Mick, the Executive Director for Apparel and NPD’s Innerwear Analyst, says that while a lot has happened in the past couple of months, much remains the same. In addition to our daily routines of work-snack-eatstream-sleep-repeat, the same key drivers impacting intimates consumers are still at play – value, comfort, and on line.

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VA LUE

STORES

STILL

W I N

The three largest value apparel retailers with their doors open during the pandemic are Walmart, Target, and Costco. Their Intimates business was strong before the virus hit, and now they are gaining market share. These retailers are positioned to continue their strong performance with product that is styled and priced right for a host of Americans experiencing job loss and financial insecurity. When thinking about the other value players – off-price retailers – given all the cancelled orders in up channel retailers, we know they will have an abundance of new spring goods to sell. Once they open their doors, we will be watching to see if the consumer has pent-up demand for treasure hunting. Retailer dot-coms have been driving growth elsewhere, offering a different kind of value to the consumer. Intimate apparel, sports bras, and sleepwear have been the drivers of week-over-week increases in the department and specialty channels. Now that retail has begun to reopen, more department and specialty store doors are opening and intimates will be an important part of building on that momentum.

CO MFO RT C A P T I VAT E S CO N SU MER SPENDS The emphasis on real consumer benefits over the last couple of years has only been amplified by the current situation. As a result, the comfort category has gone to the next level. NPD’s Retail Tracking Service information shows comfort driven categories like sports bras and sleepwear gaining share. Digging a little deeper into product attributes, wire free and smoothing are winning – both delivering comfort and shaping – just what the consumer is looking for. Seamless bras and bralettes, that offer fit flexibility, comfort, and shaping are also out performing more constructed underwire bras during the pandemic. With a larger number of female consumers now working from home, the comfort trend will only become more important to the intimates industry.

ONLINE

GROW TH

ACCEL ER AT E S

The primary success factor behind those brands and retailers who are faring better than most is their ability to sell online. Be it store closures, or consumers reluctant to shop when stores do reopen, online is going to accelerate as a popular shopping choice for intimates â&#x20AC;&#x201C; already a highly developed online business pre-COVID-19, penetrating at 25%. Incremental growth is already apparent, with online sales of bras capturing almost half of each dollar sales in the three months ending April 2020. Before the pandemic, one in four bras were sold online, today it is one in three â&#x20AC;&#x201C; could this be the new norm? These factors are likely to be constant in a retail environment that will be continuously changing for the foreseeable future, but the way consumers respond to them will evolve. How the intimates industry responds to marketplace changes as it relates to the roles of value, comfort, and e-commerce, will determine future success.

KRISTEN CL ASSI-ZUMMO

TODD MICK

GINIA

*The NPD Group/March 2020 NPD Trend Tracker survey done in conjunction with NPD partner CivicScience ** The NPD Group/ Omnibus Survey May 2020 *** The NPD Group/April 2020 NPD Trend Tracker survey done in conjunction with NPD partner CivicScience

R EVEALED

Three Keys to Unlock Customer

loyalty

BY A L I CU D BY & LO U I S E S C H U LT Z

A customer comes into your store. She wants a new bra or two. Your masterful fitting inspires her to walk out the door with the two bras, as well as matching bottoms and some loungewear. You even remind her to grab a gift for an upcoming birthday party. It’s a win! Isn’t it? Potentially, but not definitely. When lingerie boutique owners rely solely on the in-store experience to build long-term customer relationships, they shortchange their store’s opportunity to grow. Ultimately, the in-store experience is only a small fraction of the overall promise a store delivers to its customers. Therefore, your emails, socials, and follow-up are critical to ensure loyalty. And customer experience is the sum of every point of interaction between a retailer and a customer. Retailers want to encourage customers to become long-term, loyal (and highly profitable) customers. That kind of customer experience doesn’t happen by accident! There are three keys to unlock customer loyalty:

Key #1 Know Your Customers Every customer deserves a great experience when they buy from you. This is true whether the transaction is in-person or online.

the ones who spend the most money every time they shop...they offer the highest value over the lifetime of their relationship with you.

Since your most loyal customers are vastly more profitable than the rest, you want to create opportunities to show these folks that they’re special. You begin with a process to identify them when they come into the store.

EXAMPLE: Customer A comes in and spends $450. Customer B comes in and spends $100. Who’s the better customer?

You need to give your VIPs the special treatment they’ve earned with their loyalty. As the business owner, you probably know some of your VIPs by sight. In my experience, retailers are often surprised when they look at the data and realize who tops the list of their most lucrative, loyal customers.

You don’t know. If Customer A only comes in once (or even once a year) but Customer B comes in five times annually and also refers her friends to your business, then Customer B is vastly more valuable to your store. The first key to unlocking loyalty is to know your customers.

Your lucrative, loyal customers may not always be

"People will forget what you said. People will forget what you did. But people never forget how you made them feel." ISSUE#3

L I NG E R I E • L OU NG E W E A R • L I F E S T Y L E

Key #2 Aim For The Bullseye There’s a wonderful quote by Maya Angelou. It says: “People will forget what you said. People will forget what you did. But people never forget how you made them feel.” In your business, the feeling customers get shouldn’t be left to chance. They must be specific and strategic. I call that your “Bullseye.” The Bullseye is a like a mission statement, but instead of being about your business, it’s about your customers. For example, one store’s Bullseye helps customers tap into being “their best

selves” when they wear foundations that fit. That core message infuses every piece of communication that comes from the store. A clearly articulated Bullseye can help you create marketing messages that compel your customers to sit up and take notice. Knowing how you want your customers to feel guides your messaging. It also guides how you train your team to engage with customers. The more customers feel valued, the more they will want to come back sooner, spend more, and tell their friends about your store.

"In my experience, retailers are often surprised when they look at the data and realize who tops the list of their most lucrative, loyal customers."

Once your Bullseye is ingrained in your communication, and employees embrace the message, you’re ready to take action.

Key #3 Take Consistent Action Employees need to know exactly what they’re supposed to do in order to translate your Bullseye into action. It’s up to boutique owners to turn those feelings into steps that employees can follow successfully. These steps don’t have to be complex, but they’ll need to be reinforced. And repeated to ensure consistency (Probably more times than you’ll want to repeat them).

long-term growth. But customer retention is not a luxury. It’s an imperative. Your path to customer loyalty and retention has three steps:

It’s up to you as the leader to define your expectations for customer engagement. You must clarify how employees should engage and behave to successfully bring those expectations to life. This is especially important now, as you introduce new protocols for safe customer interaction.

3) Develop consistent action steps for employees to be successful with your customer retention initiatives.

With your leadership, employees will appreciate the importance of taking consistent action. Otherwise, customer retention will become a “flavor of the month” initiative with no teeth for

1) Know Your Customers and specifically your most lucrative, loyal customers. 2 Create a Bullseye that defines how you want customers to feel in your store.

Right now, retailers are going through a significant transition. In this economic reality, across every industry, new customer acquisition will be harder. It’s more important than ever to build relationships and keep the customers you’ve already worked so hard to win.

WEBINAR

In a webinar for the Curve community on June 3rd, Louise Schultz and Ali Cudby dug into this truth. www.curve-newyork.com/past-webinars

R EVEALED

Lingerie in History 02

CHANTELLE 1876

At the end of the 19th century, the company that was later to become Chantelle was founded. 02

TRIUMPH 1886

Triumph International is an underwear manufacturer founded in 1886 in Heubach, Germany. They have been an industry leader in women's lingerie and sleepwear since the 1960's. 03

A N I TA 1 8 8 6

Anita originated in 1886 from Dresden Germany and later moved to Bavaria to their current location in the village of Brannenburg, Germany. With over 130 years of experience, Anita has become one of the world's leading heritage brands. 04

FA LK E 1895

Since 1895, the Falke family business has stood for fashionable clothing made from high-quality materials, ﬁnished with handcrafted perfection and an eye for detail. 05

P R E T T Y P O L LY 1 9 1 9

Established in 1919, Pretty Polly has a strong identity that reﬂects decades of expertise and innovation. Pretty Polly has been ﬁrst to market with many of the hosiery products, such as hold ups and seamless tights. 06

CALIDA 1941

For over 75 years, Calida has been transporting its values of sustainability, premium Swiss quality and contemporary design around the world. 07

EMPREINTE 1946

Empreinte was founded in 1946 in the French city of Brest. The founder Jean Le Her, the son of a pharmacist, teamed up with a seamstress who had a passion for lingerie, and combined his technical ingenuity with her design skills to start Empreinte, creating bras in cup sizes A to C.

VERDIANI 1954

Verdiani was founded in 1954 by Dina & Rino Verdiani. The company has now reached the third generation of founders, with their granddaughters. The headquarters is near Florence, in the heart of Tuscany, Italy. ISSUE#3

L I NG E R I E • L OU NG E W E A R • L I F E S T Y L E

10 09

LEONISA 1956

For over 60 years, the forward-thinking Leonisa brand has dominated the lingerie and shapewear market in Central and South America with a stylish and inclusive approach to innerwear. 10

AUBADE 1958

Aubade is a beautiful premium luxury intimate apparel and swimwear brand that has been adding a sense of seduction to everyday wear since 1958. 11

HANK Y PANK Y 197 7

Started in 1977, designer Gale Epstein created a handmade lingerie set for her friend, Lida Orzeck, crafted out of embroidered handkerchiefs. The original designs wowed retailers and industry experts and were the inspiration for the company name, Hanky Panky. 12

DREAMGIRL 1978

Dreamgirl was founded in 1978 and currently ships to over 2,000 retailers worldwide from their 93,000 square foot facility in Bell, CA. Renowned for creating innovative new concepts, Dreamgirl continues to launch industry-changing designs for women. 13

COSABELL A 1983

Italian for "beautiful thing", Cosabella was founded by husband and wife duo Valeria and Ugo Campello. Proud to still be made in Italy with the same passion and creativity as when established in 1983. 14

BR AVADO 1992

Bravado’s story began 28 years ago when two Canadian women could not ﬁnd a nursing bra to wear. 15

COMMANDO 2003

Commando was founded by designer & CEO Kerry O’Brien in 2003, based on the idea that underwear can be functional, beautiful, and use highly technical fabrics to achieve comfort and ﬁt.

R EVEALED

Where To Buy www.us.laperla.com

A La Mode

patti@alamodeintimates.com

www.alamodeintimates.com

La Perla

A Lion's Lair

kim@lionslairdesigns.com

www.llswim.com

Leonisa

wholesale@leonisa.com

www.leonisawholesale.com

About

shop@aboutwear.com

www.aboutwear.com

Liberte

Amber@liberte.co

www.Liberte.co

Aerie

www.ae.com

Linea Intima

contact@lineaintima.ca

www.lineaintima.ca/

American Eagle

www.ae.com

Louisa Braq Paris

salesinternational@louisabracq.com

www.louisabraq.com

www.anita.net

Loulette Lingerie

latimberly@loulettelingerie.com

www.loulettebride.com

Anthropologie

www.anthropologie.com

Lunya

Anya Lust

www.anyalust.com

Mary Young

mary@maryyoung.com

www.maryyoung.com

www.aubade.eu

MilaKrasna

store@milakrasna.com

www.milakrasna.com

Bandier

www.bandier.com

Monique Morin

support@moniquemorinlingerie.com

www.moniquemorinlingerie.com

Bare Slumber

www.bareslumber.com

Myla

customer.services@myla.com

www.myla.com

Anita

Aubade

Mariana.Mayes@anita.net

andrea@eastoninternational.com

www.lunya.co

Berlei

andrea@eastoninternational.com

www.berlei.com

Natalie Begg

sales@nataliebegg.com

www.nataliebegg.com

Bra Genie

jemory@thebragenie.com

www.thebragenie.com

Natori

beth.komosinski@natori.com

www.natori.com

Bravado

mario.pace@bravadodesigns.com

www.bravadodesigns.com

New Balance

www.bretonshirt.com

Nike

Breton shirts

www.newbalance.com www.nike.com

Calida

zonia.carrion@comcast.net

www.calida.com

Nubian Skin

press@nubianskin.com

www.nubianskin.com

Carine Gilson

customerservice@carinegilson.com

www.carinegilson.com

Ohlala Cheri

nicolas@ohlalacheri.com

www.ohlalacheri.com

Chantelle

lindsay.smith@groupechantelle.com

www.us.chantelle.com

Olivia von Halle

studio@oliviavanhalle.com

www.oliviavonhalle.com

Chantilly Lace

larisa@c-lace.com

www.c-lace.com

Origami Customs

origamicustoms@gmail.com

www.origamicustoms.com

Christine Lingerie

contact@christinevancouver.com

www.christinelingerie.com

Panache

a.shnir@panache-lingerie.com

www.panache-lingerie.com

Clo Intimo

info@clostudio.com

www.clostudio.com

Play Out Apparel

aesugar@playout-underwear.com

www.playoutapparel.com

Coco De Mer

beth.richmond@coco-de-mer.com

www.coco-de-mer.com

Pour Moi

Krista.Tonra@pourmoi-clothing.com

www.pourmoi.co.uk

Commando

customerservice@wearcommando.com

www.wearcommando.com

Pretty Polly

lindas@eastoninternational.com

www.prettypolly.co.uk

Corin

info@valenslingerie.com

www.corin.eu

Rebirth Garments

rebirth.garments@gmail.com

www.rebirthgarments.com

Cos

customerservice.us@cosstores.com

www.cosstores.com

Savage x Fenty

Cosabella

jennifer@cosabella.com

www.cosabella.com

Siella Montreal

evennes@chateaubodywear.com

www.mywatsons.com

D Bleu Dazzled

info@dbleudazzled.com

www.dbleudazzled.com

Simone Perele

edrake@simoneperele.com

www.simoneperele.com

www.dagsmejan.com

Skarlett Blue

emily.salaverria@dana-co.com

www.skarlettblue.com

Dagsmejan

www.savagex.com

Dayo Women

yowhite@dayowomen.com

www.dayowomen.com

Skin

susan.beischel@skinworldwide.com

www.skinworldwide.com

Dreamgirl

ggabor@dgbrands.com

www.dreamgirlintl.com

Soak

suzanne@soakwash.com

us.soakwash.com

Elomi

contact@elomi.com

www.elomilingerie.com

Studio Pia

sales@studiopia.co.uk

www.studiopia.co.uk

Empreinte

ja.lediouron@empreinte.eu

www.empreinte.eu

Sugar Cookies Lingerie

info@sugarcookiesnyc.com

www.sugarcookiesnyc.com

Entos

direccion@entoslingerie.com

www.entoslingerie.us

Suzy Black

info@thwnewsuzy.com

www.thenewsuzy.com

www.eresparis.com

Sweaty Betty

Eres

www.sweatybetty.com www.tezenis.com

Evelyn & Bobbie

sales@evelynbobbie.com

www.evelynbobbie.com

Tezenis

Evgenia Lingerie

hello@iamevgenia.com

www.iamevgenia.com

The Little Bra Company

sales@thelittlebracompany.com

www.thelittlebracompany.com

Falke

lindas@eastoninternational.com

www.falke.com

The Underargument

maina@theunderargument.com

www.theunderargument.com

Fantasie

contact@fantasie.com

www.fantasie.com

TLC Lingerie

Fleur of England

fl eur@fl eurofengland.com

www.fl eurofengland.com

Town Shop

danny@townshop.com

www.townshop.com

Freya

contact@freyalingerie.com

www.freyalingerie.com

Triumph

tracey.sarmiento@triumph.com

www.triumph.com

Ginia

ehewitt@fashionata.com

www.giniartw.com

Trousseau

mwiener@trousseaultd.com

www.trousseaultd.com

Hanky Panky

contact-us@hankypanky.com

www.hankypanky.com

Undress Code

izabela@undress-code.com

www.undress-code.com

Hanro

iwood@hanrousa.com

www.shop.hanrousa.com

Uniqlo

www.inamoratawoman.com

V.O. SHE

info@versionsofshe.com

www.versionsofshe.com

www.jenettebras.com

Verdiani

rebecca.verdiani@diliar.it

www.verdiani.it

www.juicycouture.com

Violet & Wren

louise@violetandwren.co.uk

www.violetandwren.co.uk

www.kilobrava.com

Vy's Closet

lookgorgeous@vyscloset.com

www.vyscloset.com/

Wacoal

customerservice@wacoal-america.com

www.wacoal-america.com

Inamorata Jenette Bras

jenette.goldstein@jenettebras.com

Juicy Couture Kilo Brava

ISSUE#3

kristin@kilobrava.com

L I NG E R I E â&#x20AC;˘ L OU NG E W E A R â&#x20AC;˘ L I F E S T Y L E

tana@tlclingerie.com

www.uniqlo.com

Paris

INTERFILIÈRE