Mood enhancer

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PERFUMES with a slight hint or heavy overtones of vanilla are making a comeback.

Apart from vanilla’s classic role as a food flavouring, the 90s were the last time the aroma had a big moment even though ­ for some ­ it never went away.

Who can still remember when Guerlain’s Jicky was a heady fusion of vanilla and lavender before EU directives made all the great parfumiers modify their formulas?

Some 90s perfumes gave vanilla a bad name and the impression that it had to be clinging, cloying and much too sweet, but this need no longer be the case if you hit on what turns out to be right for you.

That shouldn’t be difficult now that leading perfume brands are pushing vanilla once more. Yves Saint Laurent’s Libre and Eilish by Billie Eilish are giving it an up­todate edge while Kayali Vanille Royal has become a huge favourite thanks to TikTok.

The fragrance, which has already amassed 105 million views on the platform, was created by Mona Kattan and

Gabriela Chelariu, a senior perfumer at Switzerlandbased Firmenich, and it has received ecstatic reviews.

“We recently did a worldwide study based on 4,000 consumers from 11 countries, asking them which ingredients they associated with which feelings,” Cheliu told the online publication, Bustle.

“Depending on the country, consumers found vanilla joyful, romantic, comforting, relaxed, or sensual, but they all agreed that it was always something that enhanced their mood.”