< by evebramley

< less than Editor-in-chief Eve Bramley Contact evebramley@hotmail.co.uk 07798751387 Special thanks to Orphan Bird Nadine Goepfert Julia Bjorkeheim Noel Pugh Melitta Baumeister Lauren Payet Rosalie Wittingham Daryoush Haj-Najafi Rob de Niet Lucy Norris

All rights reserved. For educational purposes only. < less than magazine is a stage three BA (Hons) Fashion Journalism project and has no commercial value.ÂŠ No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without written permission from the publishers. 2014 BA (Hons) Fashion Journalism, University of the Creative Arts Epsom. The views expressed in < less than magazine are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the course, its staff or the University of the Creative Arts at Epsom. These parties cannot be held responsible for them.

contents 7

editors letter

the row aw14

jil sander aw14

grown alchemist

last season

dress up aw14

eat your way to beautiful skin

shopping page: jackets

shopping page: bags

shopping page: shoes

shopping page: lingerie

interior inspiration

healthy eating

ursus wehrli: the art of cleanup

noel badges pugh: art in progress and completion

maison martin margiela x mykita

cĂŠline opens flagship london store

minimalist jukebox

nike x a.p.c

iro opens first uk store

ln-cc look book ss14

nadine goepfert: the garments may vary

c/o melitta baumeister

editors letter

the modern minimalist

9 photographs taken from a selection of 396

orphan bird: forms of boundaries

on trend: culottes

on trend: trainers

on trend: nude matte nails

india rose

102

melitta baumeister

112

the new minimalism

118

julia bjorkeheim: linings

120

the return of clean-cut lingerie

124

the building blocks of religion

At Less Than’s inception, I sat and thought long and hard about how to rehash minimalism and make it interesting. What you see before you is the result of months of hard work, self-doubt and one too many late nights. That being said, I have never been more proud to have my name against a piece of work. The concept of this magazine is simple: if you are seeking to put effort into the effortless and uncomplicated, this magazine will take you on a fashion and lifestyle journey. Less Than takes a mature approach to fashion and lifestyle through the simple and minimal aspects of life. It is the antidote to the prevailing bling culture of modern day. We will expand on your interests, be it fashion, interior design or cooking. Less than encapsulates a way of life, should you wish to take it on board. We are taking simplicity and bringing it back to its most elemental level.

The primary function of Less Than is to provide a little window to showcase all of the wondrous things - be it events, collections or even science - that are currently surrounding the world of minimalism. If you simply flick through its pages you will find unknown yet incredible designers, new collaborations and shopping inspirations amongst many other exciting things. A few prize picks are: Nadine Goepfert’s ‘The Garments May Vary’ collection; Margiela & Mykita’s eyewear collaboration; a deeper look inside simplicity within religion; the greatest new skincare brand to hit the market: Grown Alchemist and of course a few catwalk reviews thrown in for good measure. Happy reading and viewing of my proudest achievement to date. Eve Bramley Editor-in-Chief

c/o the row

the row aw14

Daring tranquility is what Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen brought to their fall collection for The Row. An oxymoron though it may be, daringly tranquil is the best way to describe the collection that came down the runway at their AW14 show in New York. As designers they are now well renowned for their understated yet luxurious collections, but in the last few seasons they had begun to experiment with and introduce fragmented embellishment: embroidery and jeweled buttons. This season, they have rejected any unnecessary adornments, instead concentrating on proportion and cut. They have played around with different silhouettes, something that is evident in the cut of the collars and the shapes of trousers and skirts. Opening with a pair of enormous sweaters in beige and grey, made from what they have coined “fur cashmere” - a phrase that even looks luxurious on the page - worn over matching capes, sported as skirts. Their sheer size and texture took the concept of cozy winter-wear to the extreme and probably beyond, proving that bigger is definitively better. They showcased enormous square-collared coats; delicately flared skirts and gigantic scarves with fringing that grazed the floor.

shoes were simple Oxford brogues and the elegant bags were polished crocodile: the most exquisite handbag from The Row to date. Make-up too was naïve; fresh-faced models with strong brows made sure that nothing detracted from the clothes, not that anything could take away from the magnitude and precision of the clean-cut offerings. This collection gives the impression that the designers have come full circle, that they have gone back to their roots to the super-sized simplicity that first put them on the fashion radar. Some may see the collection as slightly haughty or even pretentious, but there’s no denying that their obsession with quality is a breath of fresh air in a world that increasingly relies on disposability.

Accessorizing was sophisticatedly limited; the

c/o jil sander

jil sander aw14

With this collection being the first of many without Sander taking the lead, it’s easy to picture the difficulties that the Jil Sander design team might have come across whilst creating this collection. As no replacement for Sander has been named yet, ‘a team’, including Martin Sulzbacher, Anna Ruberg and Oden Wilson, designed the collection. There was minimal fuss surrounding the whole show, right down to the white concrete slab that constituted the catwalk and the barely-there runway.

finished off the clean look in shades of yellow, pink and green. The collection was decidedly minimal, even the makeup was hardly present, telling us that this brand isn’t changing its image any time soon even with Sander gone.

Opening the show, soft shades of blue, lilac and grey appeared alongside Sanderesque flat lace-ups and classic Sander hair. Ghost coloured outfits floated down the runway, clean-cut coats paired with tailored trousers in monochromatic pastels. The clothes almost seemed to be in flux, just as the brand is, with dresses bunched at the waist and coat lapels upturned. Unexpectedly, dresses, skirts and jumpers brightened up the occasion in vivid coral red, teal and tulip pink, before reducing back to pastel shades. Flatform brogues

grown alchemist natural skincare

“It is true enough to say that the healing and regenerative power of plants and their fruits are as ancient as the earth from which they sprang. However their secrets would remain hidden in the deepest jungles of Borneo, were it not for the collaborative undertakings of an English, French and Antipodean team of cosmetic chemists, who combine wisdom and modern scientific methods to harvest these bountiful botanical riches.” – Grown Alchemist Grown alchemist is a new generation of organic skincare whose aim is to banish harsh chemicals from shops and provide organic formulations that have an even better effect on the skin. This Australian brand has taken some of “the most powerful anti-aging botanical extracts ever found” and transformed them into balms, serums, elixirs and creams to be used on the face, body and scalp. One of their beliefs as a brand is that “it is now not only preferable, but also possible to achieve real beauty results without harmful chemicals.” According to them, the reason that their products work so well is all down to simple biology. The body recognises that the “synergistic molecular structure” of the product is natural, and therefore takes it in and uses it rather than rejecting it. In

c/o grown alchemist

their philosophy they explain the “building blocks of beauty” which includes collagen, elastin, hydration and anti-oxidants. This is a brand that is clearly passionate about what they do and they really know what they’re talking about. They claim that using products with harsh chemicals will eventually speed up the ageing process rather than slowing it down, as the body finds artificial ingredients incompatible and rejects it as a toxin. These toxins can then be stored in fat cells or cause a bodily reaction called ‘oxidation’, which they explain can “increase the signs of aging, causing dryness, fine lines and wrinkles. Worse still, these chemicals can be carcinogenic.” Carcinogens are substances that have been found to directly relate to cancer.

have already amassed a huge following through their clever advertising and, more importantly, their incredible products. Of the many reviews that are online, you won’t be able to find a negative one. At the moment these products can only be bought online in the UK but hopefully soon the brand will branch out into our local stores.

Of course, they aren’t saying that using other products will kill you. They just want the market to be less saturated by chemicals and more products to use natural ingredients. Grown Alchemist products are all 100% organic, meaning that they are richer in antioxidants and essential nutrients. They also have a big focus on sustainability, giving back to the earth and by using organic products, reducing the carbon footprints produced by making chemical laden merchandise. Even though this brand is relatively new, they

c/o lernert & sander

last season

This spring, artists Lernet Engleberts and Sander Plug embarked on a new project to deconstruct designer sweaters from AW13 collections and reduce them to balls of yarn. The artistic duo took the sweaters by designers such as Prada, Jil Sander, Celine and Chloé into their own hands, unravelling them one thread at a time. According to the Lernert & Sander, the balls of yarn symbolise hope and aspiration. The project was commissioned by Amsterdam clothing boutique Kiki Niesten, the only shop in the Netherlands to stock Prada and other big designer brands, for Maastricht’s TEFAF Art Fair. Kiki wanted the artists to create an original window display for the fair, while also making room for next season’s clothing. The original garments retailed from $1,300 upwards, and the balls of yarn were sold for undisclosed amounts, along with still life photographs of the unravelling process for €750 each. The total cost of the sweaters used came to over $4,000.

from a previous season once the new collections hit the catwalks. With the labels still attached to the balls of yarn, they still have prestige and as art they still come with a hefty price tag. The videos of the unravelling process are somewhat hypnotising to watch, even if seeing a beautiful, expensive sweater be taken to pieces is, to an extent, heartbreaking. Lernert & Sander became known for incorporating luxury brands into their work with their 2012 project entitled ‘Everything’, in which they mixed every fragrance brought out in 2012, (over 1400 perfumes), to create a 1.5 litre bottle of ‘Everything. ‘Last Season’ photographs are now available to buy online upon request.

The artists have said that they found the process of taking the garments apart soothing, once the initial uneasy feeling had worn off. They wanted to play with the idea that some people in the fashion industry wouldn’t want to be seen wearing a piece

c/o dress up

dress up aw14

Stephanie Downey is a big believer in using personal inspiration in the collections that she creates for Melbourne born brand Dress Up. Their SS14 collection ‘Flora’ was derived almost entirely from flowers she recalls blooming in her parents’ garden throughout her childhood.

Edmunds, created the block-colour pattern featured throughout the collection. The intriguing ‘Asana’ print is made up of geometric shapes, which represent white negative space created by the body when in different yoga poses, and is then placed on a variety of neutrally coloured items.

For AW14 she took inspiration from yoga and meditation practices, and the idea of “feeling completely relaxed and being insulated from stress.” The collection is called ‘Namaste’ and is based around spiritual exercises, and addresses a “personal and perhaps a societal need to slow down.” The idea throughout the range is to remove the divide between wearing something to look good and wearing something for comfort. Her tailored suits made from knitted Italian fabrics are the perfect example of this, creating a smart yet extremely comfortable outfit.

Downey’s ‘Namaste’ collection ticks all the right boxes in terms of current fashion: there is modern tailoring, innovative fabric use, simple prints and a gorgeous colour palette. The societal statement being made with this collection is almost eclipsed by the beauty of the garments, however it still comes across loud and clear. Perhaps we should all take a leaf out of Downey’s book and insulate ourselves from stress.

The collection pays homage to sportswear within the tailoring: Downey says she has “contradicted simple sportswear details: the neckband and cuff on a woven piece are pin-tucked to emulate a rib knitted fabric.” Greys, blues, yellows and blacks run through the collection almost too smoothly, painted onto superfluous fabrics. Ceramicist and owner of homeware brand Takeawei, Chela

c/o michael w

eat your way to beautiful skin

There are so many creams and lotions on the market to create the illusion of perfect skin, yet really we all know that the best thing we can do for our skin is to eat naturally. Vitamins and minerals are most prevalent in fruits and vegetables for a reason, so here is the definitive guide what to eat to make your skin as genuinely pure and beautiful as it can be.

bananas.

Water: Flushes toxins from vital organs in the body and keeps the skin looking fresh. Drinking 2-3 litres a day can do wonders for the skin; smoothing wrinkles and getting rid of red blotches. Eating fruit or vegetables with a high water content can also do the trick. Eat/drink: water, peaches, green tea and cucumber.

Vitamin E: An antioxidant that protects and repairs the skin. It neutralises molecules that damage collagen and cause dryness and wrinkles, reducing the appearance of ageing skin. Found in: soya, nuts and corn.

Vitamin A: Anti aging vitamin, helping to prevent wrinkles, heal skin and rebuild tissue. Also protects the skin from UV radiation and helps with pigmentation issues. Found in: broccoli, carrots and papaya. Vitamin B: Helps to give your skin a healthy glow, boosts blood circulation and helps the skin take in more oxygen. Plays an important role in cell metabolism, and keeps nerves and muscle tissue healthy. Eat: peas, sweet potatoes and

Vitamin C: Vital to the production for collagen in the skin. Collagen helps the growth of cells and blood vessels, firming and strengthening skin. Can also reduce sunburn and prevent damage from long-term sun exposure. Eat: grapefruit, strawberries and peppers.

regenerate vitamin c and repairs flaky skin. Also can protect against sun damage. Found in: brazil nuts, walnuts and brown rice.

Fatty Acids: These are the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;goodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fats that your body needs, as they regulate cell function, and control what waste and water passes through cells to keep skin hydrated. Ensures that skin is soft and non-oily, making spot flare ups less likely. Eat: Beets, almonds and avocado. Pectin: Helps reduce blemishes and wrinkles, tones and conditions skin and prevents spots and acne. Eat: apples, kiwi and strawberries. Selenium: Protects cells from damage and improves skin through cell water retention, helps

Glove Leather Jacket- Alexander McQueen; £2,595

Wool Coat -Victoria Beckham; £2,350

Encore Structure -Acne Studios; £300

Pinstriped Blazer - Saint Laurent; £1,560

Motorcycle Jacket - Zara; £69.99

Leather Biker Jacket - J Brand; £1,185

Oversized Fireball Jacket -Y-3 Yohji Yamamoto; £800

Longline Wool Coat -Topshop Boutique; £220

Bomber Jacket -Rick Owens; £795

Cutout Cuff Bomber Jacket - J.W Anderson; £965

Lor Blazer -Chapter; £254

Bartlett Blazer - Stella McCartney; £1,290

j a c k e t s

Classic Leather Jacket - R13; £1,550

Hooded Wool Blend Coat -Gucci; £1,980

Satin Bomber Jacket - T by Alexander Wang; £400

Ruched Sleeve Blazer - Helmut Lang; £375

Leather Shoulder Bag - Nina Ricci; £690

Crocodile Backpack - Nancy Gonzalez; £2,895

Croc Effect Envelope Clutch - Alaïa; £600

Large Leather Tote - Mansur Gavriel; £445

Leather Shoulder Bag - Fendi; £1,290

Mallow Leather Backpack - See By Chloé; £420

Textured Leather Clutch - The Row; £650

Leather and Suede Tote - Nina Ricci; £1,200

Transparent Satchel - Charlie May; £290

Faux Leather Backpack - Stella McCartney; £780

Quilted Leather Clutch - Saint Laurent; £870

Sac De Jour Tote - Saint Laurent; £1,560

Baylee Leather Tote - Chloé; £1,235

b a g s

Pashli Leather Backpack - 3.1 Phillip Lim; £740

Leather Clutch -Victoria Beckham; £395

Track Tote Leather Bag - Reed Krakoff; £1,100

Mountain Pull Up + Pony Hair - Car Shoe; £375

s h o e s

Luxor Boot - Opening Ceremony; £265

Air Max 1 - A.P.C x Nike; £120

Roma - A.P.C Women; £209

Pony Skin Vans - Celine; £380

Mulder Boots - Jeffrey Campbell; £105

Suede - Puma; £55

Studded Leather Slides - Giambattista Valli; £585

Hilary - Alexander Wang; £566

Fresia - Damir Doma; £980

Superstars II - Adidas; £65

Leather Pool Sliders - Topshop; £55

106 Vulcanised Leather Trainer - Vans; £60

Platform Chelsea Boots - Yang Li; £700

Mayfly Woven QS - Nike; £165

Gold Tag - Stine Goya x H2O; £80

Committed Love Bra & Thong- Elle MacPherson; £40 bra, £20 thong Victoria Raving Bra & Thong - Stella McCartney; £57 bra, £30 thong

Va Va Voom Strapless Bra & Minikini - Cosabella; £90 bra, £31 thong

Donna Angelica Bra & Thong - La Perla; £122 bra, £35 thong

Gia shelf bra and pants - Atelier Bordelle; £110 bra, £88 knickers Jennifer Bra & Knickers - Hopeless Lingerie; £55 bra, £40 knickers

Kitty Bra & Knickers - Lascivious; £94 bra, £68 knickers

29 28

Villa Satine Corset Bra & Panty Maison Close; £35 bra, £32 panty

Cage Bra & Pants - Kiki de Montparnasse; £236 bra, £195 pants Belle de Nuit Bra & Pant Fleur of England; £99 bra, £89 pant

l i n g e r i e

i n s p i r a t i o n all images on page c/o pinterest

i n t e r i o r

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Garlic kale pasta

c/o gourmet traveller

c/o design sponge

c/o love grows wild

Spicy greens and creamy parmesan bean stew

Grilled portobello and peach burger

Roast carrots with honey, sesame & parmesan

Tomato, pesto & pine nut grilled pizza

c/o happy olks

Taco salad

Pecan crusted french toast

c/o she knows

e a t i n g

c/o damn delicious

Parmesan broth with lemon, chicken and spinach

c/o how sweet eats

h e a l t h y

the art of cleanup

c/o ursus wehrli

ursus wehrli

It’s not hard for life to become overcomplicated and messy if we let things get on top of us. Clutter can take over and chaos can ensue. Fortunately though, artist Ursus Wehrli of Switzerland is a compulsively neat man, and he brings disarray into order with his series ‘The Art of Cleanup’.

artists such as Van Gough and Jason Pollock, each painting being ordered to the same incredible standard. This latest series, ‘The Art of Cleanup’ reorganises and deconstructs life’s necessary mess and reminds us that not everything in life has to be perfect.

His book of the same name has already sold 100,000 copies in less than a year, and is now a best seller in Germany. Wehrli manages to bring new meaning to the word ‘order’ as he rearranges everything from the stars and alphabetical soup to people at the beach. Wehrli’s original claim to fame came when he deconstructed famous paintings, and not in the same way as an art critic might. In his first book, ‘Tidying Up Art’, Wehrli takes all of the elements from each painting such as brush strokes, lines and shapes, and stacks them up in size, shape or colour order. He alters nothing but the order of the shapes on the page. According to Wehrli, the idea came to him as he noticed how the things in his hotel room would transform from messy to ordered every single day, courtesy of a particularly conscientious room service team. He then started to wonder what famous works of art would look like, had they been tidied to the same degree. He took on works from

c/o noel pugh

noel badges pugh: art in progress & completion

“By documenting the stages of each drawing, the ‘thoughts’ of my hand become more clear, giving a deeper sense of connectedness.”

“Flowers are great reminders of life’s delicacy, strength, and beauty. Similar to how quickly they droop and discolor, we have to kiss our bodies goodbye in a matter of time. When I lean in and listen to the flowers, the message rings out loud and clear, “Enjoy your life while you have it.” “– Noel Pugh

Noel is very much of the belief that, when it comes to flowers especially, colour can “obscure hours of detailed ink work.” Sometimes “the urge to go full colour is irresistible,” but Noel admires artists who stick to only black and white all the time, and is looking to shift his aesthetic in that direction. Many of Noel’s drawings do end up in colour so that he can sell the ‘finished’ product. He is also often asked to design tattoos for people, something that he is extremely flattered by but rarely does. “If only I was a tattoo artist!” he says, and explains “I am very stubborn about wholly drawing from life, not from photos, so every flower requested would have to be growing in my neighbourhood, and that seems very unlikely.” He does however allow people to take his designs from his website to use as tattoo reference.

After finishing his studies at San Francisco Art Institute, Noel Pugh was at a bit of a loss as to what to do with himself. “I didn’t cope well with leaving education,” he tells us, “I liked having that safety blanket of praise, I didn’t do well upon entering the ‘real world’.” Despite this, Noel seems to have made quite an impact across the Internet with his stunning series entitled ‘Art in Progress and Completion’. He gathered inspiration for the series through his studies and examining lots of different types of art. “Other artists’ progress shots have always excited me as much and sometimes more than the finished results,” he says, so he created his series in the hope that his progress shots in turn would inspire others. He also loved the idea that something could look more beautiful in what most people would see as an unfinished state. Of course, documenting his work has also served as a brilliant reference;

Noel told us that he may be focusing on something completely different in his next series, and hinted at portraits of people being on the cards. Whatever it is, the next series he releases is sure to be incredible.

c/o margiela & mykita

maison martin margiela x mykita

With both brands being world renowned for their innovative designs and clean aesthetics, it comes as no surprise that the collaboration between Maison Martin Margiela and MYKITA came together as seamlessly as it did. The collaboration has produced a capsule range for SS14 that is in a league of its own in the eyewear world. The collection consists of two models: the Essential and the DUAL. The Essential is described as “historical eyeglass forms translated into the contemporary context”, meaning that the brands have taken a classic sunglasses shape and combined it with a new design technique, coating over the frame to create a monotone piece. The DUAL is the more deconstructed design of the two, taking two pairs of acetate frames and layering them together to create a complimentary shape with contrasting colours.

and MYKITA consistently produce exquisite minimal eyewear by sticking to what is essential. For MYKITA, this collection sits alongside their equally stunning ‘The Spirit of Exploration’ SS14 campaign. They have previously collaborated with Damir Doma, Bernhard Willhelm and Moncler, showing their diversity and expertise with each partnership they take on. The collection is available throughout the summer of 2014.

Belgian fashion house Maison Martin Margiela and Berlin-based brand MYKITA began talking of a collaboration in June 2012, showing how long this process has taken and proving the incredible attention to detail. Both brands are known for being highly minimal: MMM has managed to be an extremely anonymous brand in an age where being known is almost as important as being good,

céline opens flagship

london store

Boasting 3,300 sq ft of space, the space uses raw materials such as stone and wood alongside a stunning marble floor embellished with semi-precious stones. It is the result of eight long months hard work and planning, and the store is as elegant as would be expected from both Philo and Céline. Keeping in line with the brand’s minimal aesthetic, the room is divided by screens into bags, shoes and ready-to-wear clothing. Though simple, the store is brought to life with bursts of natural colour from plants, strategically placed handbags and chandeliers. The back area of the store, which homes the changing rooms, has an earthy, moss green carpet complimented by natural lighting. Philo, who is well known for her clean and structured designs, collaborated with Danish artist FOS, a.k.a Thomas Poulsen for the vast project. Poulsen has recently exhibited at Frieze Art Fair and Art

c/o céline

Luxury brand Céline is the latest to open their flagship boutique store on the famous Mount Street in London. The store, designed by Phoebe Philo alongside the Céline team, is a jungle-esque haven in the midst of a busy city. The brand, which is known for its sophisticated womenswear and world-famous bags, has pulled out all the stops for their latest (and biggest) store in the UK.

Basel, and is becoming widely recognised for his unconventional yet exquisite design style. He has made a selection of bespoke furniture for the Céline flagship store, including shoe displays and bag holders to present the brand’s classic pieces. Of the collaboration, he says: “This marks a high point. Design has always been part of my artistic frame, which by its nature is a part of fashion.”

Céline is the latest in a long line of luxury brands to have opened up shop on Mount Street; they are joining Lanvin, Balenciaga and Rick Owens, with Christopher Kane and Roksanda Ilincic rumoured to be opening later this year.

c/o kraftwerk

minimalist jukebox

In the ever convoluted and confusing world of what constitutes minimalism, minimalist music is something that rarely seems to make sense. The Minimalist Jukebox festival, hosted by the L.A Philharmonic Orchestra, is hoping to bring minimalist music to the masses this spring. In the 1950s and 60s in downtown New York, college students such as Phillip Glass, Terry Riley and Steve Reich began creating alternative, minimal music as a backlash against the idea that no new types of music could be created. Many of them took different directions, some using piano and typical orchestral instruments. Others, including Steve Reich, took a more technical approach and experimented with tape loops and pre-prepared instruments. According to Reed Johnson of the L.A. Times, “Minimalism is an art of reduction to form an elemental repetition. Minimalism can be a surprisingly expansive, elastic concept that connotes an array of experimental possibilities.” English artist, composer and critic Michael Nyman first coined the term ‘minimal music’ in the late 1960s within an article for The Spectator magazine. Minimalism within music originated in classical music and was based on the concept of repeating or looping musical patterns. Terry Riley,

who wrote a string quartet using only C major and then introduced two electronic works using tape delay to emphasise the idea of repetition into minimalism, expanded that concept. Not so long after this, minimalism transferred itself into popular music. During the 1970s the progressive rock genre embraced minimalism and demonstrated a more experimental influence within music, with bands such as Soft Machine and King Crimson. Minimalist composer Tom Johnson describes minimalism as “any music that works with limited or minimal materials: pieces that use only a few notes, pieces that use only a few words of text, or pieces written for very limited instruments.” The Minimalist Jukebox festival, held at various locations across L.A. such as the Walt Disney Concert Hall, includes a series of concerts from March to May, celebrating minimalism within music and exploring its birth, progression and the influences it drew from along the way. Kicking off the festival is a series of Kraftwerk 3-D concerts, and the climax ending will be the L.A. Philharmonic performing “De Materie” by Louis Andriessen, a key piece within minimalist music’s history. Sandwiched between these two incredible performances will be a “Maximum Minimalism” program of pieces by Steve Reich and David Lang among others, as

well as performances by Terry Riley, Sonic Youth, Brian Eno and Cameron Carter. We will also see Grant Gershon conducting the Phil in Philip Glass’ operatic/choral pieces. “The festival has an incredibly varied line-up” according to Chad Smith, L.A. Philharmonic’s vice president of artistic planning. He tells us that when the first Minimalist Jukebox festival took place in 2006, “It was the first time an American orchestra had taken such a deep dive into the most important classical music movement.” This year the L.A Philharmonic intends to take on huge classical pieces such as CIVIL warS by Robert Wilson, while also taking apart rock and electronic minimalist music, something that is rarely explored by orchestral organisations. The festival takes place from March until May 4th 2014.

nike x a.p.c air max 1 collaboration

c/o a.p.c

After last year’s collaboration sold out faster than anyone had expected, this year the new Nike x A.P.C trainer has been highly anticipated. The latest instalment from the two brands comes once again in the form of the minimal and sleek Air Max 1. The trainer’s upper consists of suede and mesh in solid navy, while the midsole is white and the bottom brown, making for a clean revamp on the Nike classic which stays true to A.P.C’s usual aesthetic. The trainers combine comfort and style, and A.P.C have carried over their expected minimalist designs to this partnership, keeping things simple as far as the colour and branding is concerned. The A.P.C logo is kept to the inside sole of the shoe, and the classic Nike tick almost blends into the rest of the shoe’s upper. This will be the sixth collaboration for the two brands; the most recent was released in February 2014 when they put their own spin on the basketball sneaker, the Nike Blazer. The Nike x A.P.C Air Max 1’s are available for both men and women, online and in-store for $120.

c/o iro

iro to open first uk store

Premium French fashion label IRO is set to open its first UK store this summer in London. They will be joining high-end brands such as Phillip Lim, Carven and Sandro in up and coming luxury shopping area, Brompton Cross. The lavish boutique will boast 1,500 sq ft of floor space, making it one of the brand’s biggest stores worldwide. IRO currently have almost 100 stores across the USA, Europe and the UAE, and now they are looking to branch out around the UK. The first store in Brompton Cross will open this summer, followed by three or four additional stores across the UK over the next year.

Brompton Cross – the brand fits perfectly into the eclectic and upmarket tenant mix in the area.” They have also stated that Brompton Cross is now London’s “fourth luxury shopping destination,” and that they will endeavor to find places across the UK that are equally suited to the brand’s chic and minimal aesthetic. The Brompton Cross store is set to open in May 2014.

Brothers Arik and Laurent Bitton founded IRO in 2005, and since then the brand has achieved global success with its clean and sporty womenswear. The idea behind the brand was to mix Parisian elegance with edgy street style to create something unique for women across the globe. The new London store will offer IRO’s womenswear and menswear collections as well as IRO Jeans, their new denim enterprise. According to real estate brokers Cushman and Wakefield, who found the site for IRO’s new store, “IRO’s edgy appeal will ensure success in

ln-cc look book ss14

Upon LN-CC’s inception back in 2010, it was immediately categorised as an impossibly cool store straight from the heart of Dalston. The concept store stocks everything from Damir Doma to Yang Li, as well as a variety of books and records. The store is more of a creative brand in itself than a generic retail outlet. The latest look book for SS14, released April 23rd, has blown all other stores out of the water with the selections for their summer stock list. The shoot features brands like Rick Owen, Lanvin and Acne, and is set in front of the most luxe backdrop imaginable – a marble quarry in Carrara, Italy. Getting to a place where the shots were possible was very difficult; “I don’t know how high up we were, but it was above the clouds,” says John Skelton, LN-CC’s founder and creative director, “it was quite difficult getting all the products and make-up up there. But it was worth it.” Shot by Rory van Millingen, the look book showcases models Gigi Jeon and Max E, the former of which started out as LN-CC’s in-house model and has now walked for Louis Vuitton. images c/o ln-cc

Consistently modern and interesting, the store always manages to pick unexpected and fresh garments from new brands each season. Highlights

from this look book include an oversized trench coat from Damir Doma, sleek riding jackets from Lanvin and Yang Li cotton pants. This store manages to regularly deliver the best brands, which have placed the store on the map as one of the best in London. As for the brands in this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lookbook, Skelton carefully selects them all himself. This shoot perfectly mixes and matches many of the brands sold in the store, and are now available to buy online, as the store is currently closed for renovations. The store seems to have some very exciting things in the pipeline, having just signed a deal with The Level Group with the hope of increasing efficiency and profits. Fear not, though, as creative control is still in the hands of Skelton, the group are purely taking care of the business side for the store. The AW14 look book will be released in August, along with the new list of brands stocked at LNCC and a brand new look for their Dalston store. Until then, enjoy the incredible pieces from SS14 and if any catch your eye, head on over to their website.

nadine goepfert: the garments may vary

“What is the essence of a pair of pants (if it has such a thing)? Certainly not that crisp and wellpressed object to be found on department-store racks; rather, that clump of fabric on the floor, negligently dropped there when the boy stepped out of them, careless, lazy, indifferent. The essence of an object has some relation with its’ destruction: not necessarily what remains after it has been used up, but what is thrown away as being of no use.” – Roland Barthes There are times when a collection is made with such love, care and devotion that it becomes deeply profound and philosophical, as well as wondrous to look at. Berlin based Nadine Goepfert has consistently created beautiful works of art through her clothing designs; these pieces are so technically complex that she considers herself a designer of textiles rather than fashion.

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Goepfert’s work always begins with blank surfaces such as fabric, foam and plastic, which offer up endless possibilities to her experimental mind. Her collections rely on thorough investigative work, with every angle and potential for the materials being considered all the way through her process.

As French philosopher Roland Barthes depicts, the philosophy behind the relationship between wearer and garment is the main focus of Goepfert’s latest collection, ‘The Garments May Vary’. Goepfert notes that the collection was inspired by “the combination of a textiles’ ability to frequently change its form and the possibility of capturing moments and traces through the process of wearing it.” At the heart of this project is Goepfert’s need to re-imagine the relationship between item of clothing and the wearer, as is proved by her focus on the pieces being able to change their form while being worn. The garments that Goepfert has created not only look stunning and stand-alone as glorious pieces of art, but they also change in their form, structure, size and colour with ordinary wear. The collection of clothes that emerged from this project is secondary to the investigation behind them, making Goepfert’s approach to her work extremely unique. Goepfert is passionate about her work, and of her latest collection she says; “I am fascinated by the constant interplay between the body and the garments; the movements that we make which influence the structure of the textile, the moment you undress and leave a garment behind, and the coherent aesthetic of the absence of the wearer”. Goepfert loves the idea that the item of clothing may

have a life of its own outside of being worn, that it may cling to the indentations and markings made by the wearer even after it has been abandoned. Speaking of the heart of a garment, Goepfert informs us that she believes that the essence only evolves within relation to the body or the use of the garment, however: “At the same time textiles or clothes are able to influence the behavior and the movement of the wearer”. Within her ‘The Garments May Vary’ collection, Goepfert uses materials such as memory foam for a pullover and a skirt, welded transparent PVC filled with black liquid for her liquid coat, and cotton coated with a thick wax layer for her wax jacket. Every item in the collection is handmade and hand embroidered, meaning that every piece truly is one of a kind. She tells us: “as a textile designer, I am more interested in the structures, as in the shape of a garment, than the final fashion product. I have a huge collection of pottery and vases from the 90s, which I can see in the design of my garments, but they weren’t conscious sources of inspiration”. Goepfert is stimulated by everything around her, and has the wondrous ability to turn pretty much anything into something beautiful. She told us that the whole ‘The Garments May Vary’ collection came about because she began

to research conservation, and the “associated idea of capturing a certain condition or moment of a naturally changing object”. Of the fashion industry, Goepfert is wary to dip her feet the whole way in: “once you decide to fully be a part of it, fashion business must be really hard. Though my work deals with fashion, I am not only interested in innovation; I am way more interested in people, society and routine”. Even if she were to work on more commercial, marketable items, the core of each project and collection would have to be focused on society and portray a strong message. “The nice thing about working as a textile designer,” she continues, “is that you don’t have to decide to work in one special field. At first you are just working on an interesting surface; its purpose is decided later on in the process”. “I like the idea that you have the possibility to start at the absolute beginning of a product,” Goepfert tells us; “the only thing you have at the start might be a plain yarn, which offers plenty of possibilities”. Goepfert is a strong believer in creating the whole garment herself by hand. Her process from design to completion never starts with the aesthetics: “I have a big interest in literature and philosophy, so most of the time I start reading and researching to

create some kind of working concept. I try to leave space for surprising developments or mistakes, which will lead my work in other interesting directions”. There is no solid structure throughout the progression of her work, rather it is very fluid and could change at any moment. She is able to translate concepts and ideas that aren’t particularly fashionable, and includes them to create something truly unique: “sometimes I get fascinated by the different conditions of a material (such as melting) or techniques which are not necessarily related to textiles (like conservation) and try to find a way to translate those phenomena into textile materials”.

It’s suffice to say that Goepfert is going to be a big name to watch out for, in both the fashion and textile worlds, as her constantly working mind creates more and more brilliant articles. Finally, when asked what she would create if not textiles and fashion, she answered simply, “pottery”.

Of course, Goepfert is also inspired by art and fashion on top of the world of subject matter she takes into account. Dries van Noten, Vladimir Karaleev, Raf Simons and Phoebe Philo are just a few examples of her favourite designers, and she tells us that she is a fan of minimalism, which translates in her collections. When asked why she thought her collections stand out from the crowd, Goepfert became embarrassed and was very grateful for the compliment. She told us that it’s “maybe because it was not my intention to be a part of it, or maybe because I don’t see myself working in only one field”.

the modern minimalist

“Minimalism is not defined by what is not there, but by the rightness of what is and the richness with which this is experienced.” John Pawson Minimalism in art and design denotes any visual concept that has been stripped down to its bare essentials, in both function and aesthetic. In essence, the term minimalism – whether it refers to art and design or to lifestyle – works around the principle of removing any non-essential elements and focusing on abstract traits. That being said, having a minimal approach to fashion and wardrobe building doesn’t mean that that person must also subscribe to a minimalist lifestyle. The classic “minimalism” stereotype is of someone who owns almost nothing and dresses only in white linen, but in reality minimalism is much more simple and much more personal than that. Minimalism is extremely accessible; it’s about personal style and taste, and how a person chooses to express simplicity through their dress and lifestyle.

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Fashion houses like Balenciaga and Jil Sander introduced minimalist design principles into fashion, creating clean, simple silhouettes in muted colours with little decoration. There is a manner of Scandinavian style about these designs; “the Scandinavian look is mainly characterized by

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simplicity, minimalism [and] humanized function” says Danish stylist Dorothea Gundtoft. Designers and brands like Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto, 3.1 Philip Lim, Issey Miyake and Saint Laurent Paris all have a minimalist mindset, something which is evident in their collections. The sublime quality of the clothes created by these brands exceeds anything fast fashion could come up with: they are creating bodies of work that transcend the ‘season to season’ tradition that fashion has become accustomed to.

help people reduce down their wardrobes and declutter their lives, says: “Aim to curate a wardrobe full of garments that you love, that inspire you and that make you feel excited about getting dressed each morning. Every single thing in your wardrobe should express your personal style perfectly, so set your standards high.” It has become increasingly easier for everyone to shop on the high street and pick up a vast amount of clothes for not a lot of money; places like H&M, Topshop and The Gap often sell the basics at discounted prices, but these pieces will only satisfy for one season, two at the most. If clothes are bought on price alone, if shopping becomes more a task of ‘bargain hunting’ than searching for items that truly reflect personal style, they will become dated and boring very quickly. More than anything, personal style is about not compromising for a cheap piece. Letting minimalist ideas influence personal style doesn’t mean that you must dress in a minimal fashion, instead we must embrace the concept of having less but making more out of it. Simplicity, function and self-expression are three key features of this, as is the idea of quality over quantity and most importantly, originality. A minimalist approach to wardrobe building doesn’t determine ’10 wardrobe essentials’ or a rigid

Many people struggle to turn the conceptual idea of their personal style into something tangible that they can see within their wardrobe. Stripping away everything that doesn’t fit in with the ideal personal style leaves a core of what the person really loves. Minimalism recognizes that fast, disposable fashion is not the answer to wardrobe and dress satisfaction; rather the ‘less is more’ ideal really rings true. If you own less, your clothing will have been more carefully sought; it will have more than one dimension and a story as to why it was selected. The satisfaction of a small, complete wardrobe is incomparable to having countless disposable items that equate to having ‘nothing to wear’, which is all too often the case. Anuschka Rees who runs ‘Into Mind’, a blog designed to

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colour palette, it relies on the wearer truly feeling comfortable with what they own and combining items to make stand-out outfits.

These same rules can apply to interior design. Although it depends on personal preference, taking a minimalist attitude to the way the home flows removes much of the stress of living. Once again, reducing everything to its necessary elements is key to this. Similar to the wardrobe ideal, the idea is to do more with less and therefore selecting a few key materials and colours to create a theme in the home makes for a look that is tidy and organized. Storage is extremely important; especially the kind that is so hidden away that no one would ever think it was a storage unit. Of course many will think that a minimally decorated home will be white, white with a dash of white for good measure, but in reality there are near endless options of what can be done in the home while still keeping things simple. Of course, neutral colours are often favoured in minimal design but that doesn’t mean there can’t be a feature or statement colour present, as long as it stands boldly and alone. Shapes are important; unusual cut out shapes or unexpected silhouettes make for originality in the home as well as making it feel more like a living space and less

like a gallery. Extending the theories beyond this, minimalism can be a successful and worthwhile way of life, if we look past the stereotype and focus on the abstract concept on which minimalism relies. A minimalist lifestyle concentrates on clearing out anything non-essential in both a mental and physical way. This can range from a healthy diet and exercising more, to discerning activities that are essential to your being and eliminating what is not. This can also be referred to as essentialism, as Greg Mckeown says in his book Essentialism: The Disciplined Pursuit of Less; “It is about doing less, but better, in every area of our lives.” Minimalism is something that can encapsulate every aspect of life. Be it simplifying wardrobe choices, interior design or a complete lifestyle choice, anyone can live their life with aspects of essentialism mixed into the fold.

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9 selected photographs taken from 396

photography: lauren payet styling: eve bramley model: rosalie wittingham

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top: maison martin margiela, bottom: christopher de gabriele

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shirt: comme de garรงons, trousers: vexed generation

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shirt: prada, trousers: vexed generation, shoes: stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

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jacket: stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own, shorts: vexed generation

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orphan bird: forms of boundaries

Established in 2012, Orphan Bird is a unique clothing brand: they mix a Scandinavian aesthetic with Italian craftsmanship. The brand is based in Gothenburg, Sweden, and was founded by Italian designer, Ciro Supino, and Swedish photographer/ visual artist, Sara Lohman. Supino takes inspiration from his Italian background while Lohman uses Scandinavian-style visuals as her muse, and the two come together to create incredibly unique designs. Their philosophy invokes a feel for something fresh and original: “creating unconventional garments that follow their own natural shape: timeless elegance with a retrofuturistic twist.” We spoke to the team about their AW14/15 ‘Forms of Boundaries’ collection.

without any strict formula, without any boundaries.” She elaborates further, speaking about how the brand came about: “designing clothes has always been captivating to us because of its’ dual function as an artistic expression and functional item. With our fondness for minimal, clean cuts and gender blurring patterns, the urge to create our own label matured in March 2012.” Describing the ‘Forms of Boundaries’ collection, Sara tells us it “is a mix of contemporary architecture between Singapore and the Scandinavian landscape aesthetics.” The team hopes to have reinvented the traditional way of tailoring garments, “exploring new innovative construction techniques: an interaction between diverse shapes and clean cuts, resulting in new unexpected forms.” The brand’s starting point in their design process is to find a concept before they think up any ideas for the actual garments. They want their wearer and viewer to be able to find a real meaning in their garments, as well as in their photos and art installations. “We don’t just design clothes, we design a whole atmosphere.”

Considering that the duo don’t really have a background in the fashion industry, they’re doing an extremely good job of making it seem like they do. Supino began studying fashion design in London but discovered it wasn’t for him, and eventually dropped out to “follow his own pathway instead.” Lohman has spent a long time taking photography courses and spending “many hours in a darkroom.” Many people are unaware that the pair not only run the label together, but they are also actually a couple. True to the title of their latest collection, Sara tells us that their “notion is to create our own movement

The true diversity of this brand shines through in their look book photos; the same clothes are modeled on both men and women, proving their

androgynous aesthetic. When someone puts their clothes on, they want people to see “something innovative yet eminently wearable”, something that they seem to have achieved with great ease. A standout statement within their philosophy is “with our imagination reversed to the past we move forward to the future.” To the brand, this means that they “minimally take influences from the past and reinterpret it with a modern take on the world.” The couple both have a strong fondness for the ‘Vagabond’ style of the 1920s-40s, and have tried to recreate this in their own minimal, clean way. Orphan Bird’s garments are produced in limited quantities meaning the quality is extremely high. Being eco-friendly is an extremely important value to this team; they have created their entire brand around this principle. When they started the brand, they wanted to create something that they could stand for; “a design that represents innovation combined with quality.” Their bags are handcrafted in Italy and the garments are produced in Bulgaria – “everything has a connection within Europe to ensure it maintains the highest environmental standards. Every small element in our business plays an essential role and it’s crucial for us to work with a team that empathizes our values.”

With this brand’s focused vision, it seems that they will be relevant season after season, defying the trends and shaping an individual style. Their prime source of inspiration “has always been the pure nature of architecture combined with the typical Scandinavian aesthetics”, and this really shines through in the collection images. The look book photos are stunning and it appears that the partnership works seamlessly; each person complimenting the other’s talents and creating something beautiful. “We like to see ourselves as two different sides of the same tool; we don’t share the same experiences but we do share the same vision and aesthetics.” Whatever this brand is doing, it’s clearly working and they should continue to evolve along the same path. Creating timeless pieces that don’t match the trends of today is obviously a successful working method for them, and Orphan Bird is definitely one to watch; the only way is up for this unique brand.

on trend: culottes

After reappearing on the catwalks over the last few seasons, it seems that culottes are back for the foreseeable future. AW14 catwalk shows showed us a whole host of the crisp new take on the trousers, cementing their place as one of the biggest trends of 2014. Culottes have a reputation for being notoriously hard to pull off, but the latest revamp of the culotte is sophisticated and flattering.

c/o stockholm street style

The word culottes originated in France and referred to the knee breeches worn by upper-class European gentlemen. During the French Revolution of 1789, working class revolutionaries were known as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;sans-culottesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, literally rejecting aristocratic clothing styles. The first five presidents of the United States wore culottes, too. Because of itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rich and old history, the culotte is often depicted as frumpy and forgotten, but this year designers are proving that culottes can be cool. The culottes that came down the AW14 catwalks were effortlessly chic and refined and came from a variety of brands. The mark of an inventive designer is being able to take an often-criticised garment and turn it into something that everyone is clamouring to wear, as is proved by this trend. To make this trend work tailoring is key, a good cut will ensure that the look stays modern and

interesting. The most-seen shape for the new culotte is a wide leg that ends mid calf, as this suits most body types. These styles arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t masquerading as skirts, as has been seen so frequently in recent years. They are statement pieces and speak for themselves, best paired with a simple t-shirt and pumps. Block colours are best, particularly black, grey, navy and beige, as this is a trend that doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need any fuss.

and size (super wide leg is good for taller women, whereas a more slim line shape works better for the more petite), and pair with a nice chunky statement heel. However you wear them, keep them cropped and interesting to make any outfit effortlessly cool.

The sleekest designs have come from J.W Anderson, Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham and Diane von Furstenberg. Ranging from neutral tones to dark silky styles, the culotte is more versatile than ever before. Crepe and linen varieties take the look down to casual for summer, while more robust pairs in leather or thick cotton are perfect for autumn. For a casual look, pair with an oversized jumper or a silky cami and play around with proportions, testing out which looks work and which donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t. Styling culottes might seem like an impossible task, but whatever feels comfortable will probably look good too. Shorter knee-length culottes have also made an appearance for SS14, taking over from the usual smart shorts for a more boyish look. The key points to making culottes look good are to keep it simple; find the perfect shape for your height

on trend: trainers

The trainer has undergone yet another style revolution. 2014 has seen trainers evolve from streetwear essential to high fashion staple, and fashion’s enchantment with trainers shows no sign of slowing down. In January 2014, Karl Lagerfeld sent models at his Paris haute couture show onto the catwalk wearing lace-up sneakers, closing the book on other shoes and consolidating trainers as 2014’s go-to high fashion footwear. So far this year we’ve seen Raf Simons and Rick Owens collaborate with Adidas and A.P.C with Nike, plus the innumerable trainers brought out by high-end designer brands. Céline, Saint Laurent and Givenchy have all released their own sneakers and have had instant sell-out success.

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The trend started picking up pace in 2013, along with a move towards more functional, comfortable clothing. Part of the charm of pairing sneakers with a glamorous outfit, is that it’s completely unexpected, and of course in the fashion industry, the most surprising looks make for the best trends. New Balance trainers have suddenly reached peak fashion status, despite having been in production for years. Their appeal comes from the fact that they are minimal and understated, comfortable and

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stylish. Adidas Superstars have also been making their comeback, after being relatively unworn for many years now; the all white style trainer has proved to be extremely popular recently. Some of the more high-end focused bloggers have really taken on the trend, as well as fashion editors, models and designers alike. Phoebe Philo took her catwalk bow wearing a pair of Stan Smiths, Cara Delevingne is rarely seen in anything but sneakers and Julia Sarr-Jamois, fashion editor atlarge for i-D, pioneered the revival of Nike Air Maxâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Wearing trainers on the front row at fashion week isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t exactly a new phenomenon, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been building for a few seasons now, but since its inception the trend has moved away from bold, flashy in-yourface sneakers, now preferring to be more plain and anonymous. This trend is not about bright colours grabbing attention, it is understated and palette cleansing. The evolution of the trainer this year pares down the flamboyant styles of late, taking black and white and making them cool again. The more simple the colourway and shape, the more on point the shoe is. The brilliance lies in the simplicity of this trend, and, of course, the comfort.

on trend: nude matte nails

Matte nail varnish exploded into the fashion world last year with a flurry of excitement, but since then seemed to have somewhat disappeared off the map. That being said, the matte nail seems to be making a comeback in nude shades, bringing a look of ultimate sophistication. We first saw the matte nude mani at Alexander Wang AW13, and they’ve slowly been working their way into the trend books. Forgetting about bold, shiny patterned nails, the nude nail has always been clean and chic way to go. Enhancing your natural nails while giving a perfectly smooth result, Butter London’s ‘Nail Foundation’ is a staple to the nude nail. This polish helps you to look expertly groomed even if there isn’t time for a full-blown manicure in the salon, as it eliminates any nail ridges and covers any imperfections. If you can’t find a matte polish in your shade, there are plenty of matte topcoat polishes such as Essie’s ‘Matte About You’ and Nails Inc.’s ‘Westminster Bridge’. You can then pair the topcoat with regular polishes and still create the matte effect. Some of the best nude nail colours are Mac’s ‘Nail Lacquer’, OPI’s ‘Dulce de Leche’ and Estee Lauder’s ‘Nudite’.

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Transparent Satchel - Danielle Foster for Charlie May; £290

tones can be tricky, but as a general rule of thumb, fair skin is complimented best with pink undertones, medium and olive skin tones look best with a peach based polish, and darker complexions benefit from orange based shades. Keeping nails shorter is important when it comes to nude polishes, as longer nails threaten to look more like talons when painted nude, and can come across as quite unkempt. It’s best to try working with your natural nails to create a subtle nude effect. If you’re going for the manicure, a tiny strip of white at the tip of the nail makes for a classier look than the classic manicure. Whether you’re shy of sporting audacious nails, or whether you’re just bored of seeing in-your-face colours and patterns, the matte nude nail always completes a subtle and stylish look and is easy to achieve.

Finding the perfect nude colour for different skin

india rose

In a world where pretty much anyone can start up a fashion blog, it takes someone special to cut through the drivel and single handedly change the blogging game. Someone who has managed to achieve this mean feat is 21-year-old India Rose. India started up her blog, self-titled ‘India Rose’, when she was studying photography in college. Her tutor suggested it would “be a great way to better my chances of getting onto a fashion marketing course. Which it did.” Luckily, and completely unexpectedly, her blog became a huge success and is now read by thousands of people. She’s been awarded Grazia Daily’s ‘best dressed blogger’ and is featured in the upcoming issue of POP magazine, as well as having collaborated with brands like All Saints.

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After growing up in London, India studied Fashion Communication and Promotion at Nottingham Trent University while running her blog, which has led her into working at my-wardrobe as Social Media Coordinator, as well as freelance styling on the side. Her style is something fairly unique these days; pared down and comfortable but with a quiet air of sophistication that can be very difficult to achieve. She tells us that she’d love to create her own fashion line in the future, “but a lot of the pieces would be different to what I currently wear mainly

due to them not existing.” As far as inspirations go, it’s obvious that she doesn’t follow fashion for the trends, rather she’s “inspired by a combination of the people I see on the street, my male friends, hip hop and Scandinavian architecture and design.” She does, however, look to people like Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, Camilla Nickerson, Phoebe Philo and Rei Kawakubo for style tips, as well as looking back to the 80s for outfit ideas. She also tells us that she has a set bundle of designers and brands whose collections she looks out for over each fashion season. These include, but aren’t limited to; The Row, Damir Doma, Yang Li, Acne, Yohji Yamamoto and Opening Ceremony. India can’t limit herself to one favourite fashion city, her favourites are “Paris, New York and Berlin equally. All for different reasons.” Of minimalism, India thinks of it as “more of a way of thinking rather than just an aesthetic. It’s a clean state.” It’s clear from her style that she takes minimalism on board in the way that she dresses, and from her blog we can see that her interior style is based on much of the same. “I’ve never been a hoarder,” she tells us, “I don’t own a lot of stuff. I like to reinvent myself every few months, and doing this in a minimal way allows you to do so without

changing your aesthetic too much.” She also tells us that she’d love people to open their minds to minimalism, as many people see it as dull and boring, whereas India thinks it’s more of a skill to create something simple, free from colour and fuss, and for it to still look “fresh, interesting and timeless.” India’s other love, music, will hopefully soon be making an appearance on her blog. “I haven’t quite figured out how to merge my personal style and fashion parts with my music to put on my blog yet, but I’m getting there” she says. Her music taste is almost, if not equally as expansive as her fashion taste, and when asked about the artists she’s enjoying at the minute she reeled off a list of 10 straight off the bat, including Ninja Tune, Brainfeeder and 50 Weapons. “I’m going through a phase of listening to loads of old jazz and hip hop right now, rather than new artists,” she explains, “I usually keep up with electronic, techno and house releases but it all ends up sounding the same so I need to take a break once in a while.” She also loves events such as Record Store Day, as it helps her to find old and new music to immerse herself into. Reluctantly and with difficulty, she reveals that her top five artists of all time would be “Slum Village, A Tribe Called Quest, Moodymann, Theo Parrish and Flying Lotus.”

Although India occasionally helps out with styling in her spare time, it’s not something that she’d want to pursue. “I don’t think my style is broad enough to be a stylist, but I’d love to style shoots for magazines or brands more regularly,” she explains. Of course, India is lucky enough to be sent clothes as part of her blog from all sorts of big names like Acne, All Saints and Adidas. If money were no limit, the brands that would make up her perfect capsule wardrobe are “The Row, Celine and the whole of LN-CC.” India also tells us that she honestly couldn’t tell us her favourite designer of all time: “A few years ago I would have said Alexander Wang, but our aesthetics seem to have drifted apart. I used to love every single collection of his, now other designers have replaced him in my books.” She does, however, reveal that if she could only wear one brand for the rest of her life then she would choose Acne. As she has only recently moved back to London to start at her my-wardrobe job, she’s been busy rediscovering the city. She tells us that her favourite places to eat are “10 Greek Street, Ceviche, Hoi Polloi and Koba,” and her favourite place for a night out is Corsia Studios. India also has a long list of things she’d love to do if she could take time out

of slowly building her career. “I really want to travel around Asia and South America at some point, I’d love to live in New York and Berlin for a few years and possibly move to Tokyo or Amsterdam for a while. I’d also love to sky dive,” she tells us. The one thing she would do if she could take a year out and come back to her life exactly as it is now is travel. One of her dreams is to immerse herself in South African culture and forget all about fashion, if only for a little while. At the moment a day in India’s life consists of working, fitting in photoshoots on her lunch break and meeting with her agent which all sounds very promising and exciting. At the weekend, though “I stay with friends who live more central and drink lots of beer and wine (but not together, come on now).” The horizon is very bright for India Rose, blog wise and also in any other career path she may choose to go down. Lets keep our fingers crossed that someone has the sense to fund her fashion label, and that one day we can learn to be as effortlessly stylish as she manages every day.

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the new minimalism

With trend forecasters and journalists alike churning out new terminology for every recycled trend as of late, one that has caught our eye is the idea of ‘normcore’ and of ‘lowlux’. These terms essentially refer to a pared down, simple way of dressing: basically a rehashing of minimalism. Some argue that ‘normcore’ refers to more of a personality type than a way of dressing, which makes a little more sense, however minimalism as a way of life encompasses pretty much the same principles. The idea of minimal dressing, as with ‘normcore’ and ‘lowlux’, is to put forward an aesthetic that relies on simple, luxurious basics that display personality over wardrobe choices. The roots of these ‘new’ trends of course lead back to the catwalk, Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo have consistently displayed ‘lowlux’ clothing each season, and yet the trends are being treated as unheard of concepts. In recent years, even guests’ outfits at fashion weeks in Paris and Milan have been extremely pared down in comparison to London, proving the trend hasn’t just appeared from thin air. To break down the trends, they consist of exactly what you would expect to find in a minimal wardrobe aesthetic: slouchy black trousers, crew

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neck sweaters and white trainers, and pretty much anything else with a neutral tone to it. The comfort factor is most important here, not the number of people that stop and stare at your outfit.

c/o blogspot

So how come there is a sudden resurgence of minimalism in fashion, and why is it coming back disguised under new names? Some have described ‘normcore’ as “boring fashion for interesting people,” which could be considered correct to some extent. Generally speaking, anyone consciously following these trends is making an effort to dress as if they don’t look at what they pull out of their wardrobe in the morning. Of course, they most probably take the same amount of time as anyone else to decide on an outfit to wear, but the idea is to appear aloof and above fashion. Many of us have now been dressing as a more truncated version of ourselves for a while now, but now that trend forecasters have designed a term for this, people are reluctant to dress in the same way they might have been doing for years.

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brilliance of this industry. We don’t need a new minimalism. It is so vast and all-encompassing that masking it under names like ‘lowlux’ and ‘normcore’ is almost insulting. Anything can be cool and anything goes; be it ‘normcore’, ‘lowlux’ or ‘circus clown’, people should wear what they want to wear. No one should dress to a simplified version of their incredible personality simply because it’s ‘on-trend’.

That being said, fashion is at heart a fantastical creature that begs to be dressed up and put on show. Sure, there are some of us who like to be more unassuming than the peacocking that takes place every fashion season, but in there lies the

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julia björkeheim: lining

Born and raised in Stockholm, at the ripe age of 16 Julia decided that education wasn’t for her and she set out to pursue other areas of interest. Eventually, she decided that she wanted to design clothes, and in 2009 she moved to London to study menswear at London College of Fashion. However, after just a year she thought she “was really shit at it, so I nagged my way into the second year of womenswear.” Julia was involved in Dazed and Confused’s ‘Fashion for Show’ in 2011, but she really stepped into the spotlight after her MA collection was shown at Graduate Fashion Week in 2013, and since then her next collection has been eagerly anticipated. Her latest collection entitled ‘Linings’ was inspired by the idea of a post-apocalyptic world. Julia tells us: “I used my friends as my muses and imagined them as ‘doomsday preppers’.” She continues to tell us that as time went on, the collection transformed into something “more neat and clean” than had been originally planned. “I experimented a lot with camping equipment,” says Bjorkeheim, “I mashed foam with fabric to create a kind of sleeping pad surface.”

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The collection came out looking very architectural, perhaps owing to the clean cut edges and strong angles that feature throughout, but Julia insists that this is purely coincidental. She says that the square shapes we see throughout the collection were her way of “simulating a classic quilt in a different way.” Even though designers such as Céline, Prada, Issey Miyake and Hussein Chalayan inspire her, Julia insists that her favourite shows each fashion season come from graduates. “There’s so much emotion put into graduate collections, where one person has done everything from the concept, research, sampling, pattern cutting, sourcing and making” she tells us, and it’s clear that her passion for design is deep-rooted. She continues by saying that the graduate shows are “where you see the full potential of the designer”. Julia divulges that minimalism comes out as a big part of her collections. “I can be inspired by anything, but I translate it into minimalism” she says. She also tells us that she doesn’t necessarily look to minimalism for inspiration; it’s just something that she likes to surround herself with. c/o julia björkeheim

To look at her incredible design work, you’d never be able to tell that Julia Bjorkeheim was a “high school dropout”.

When asked about her design process, Julia claims that there is no definitive way to create a collection. “I believe it is impossible to go through a

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design process and manage to keep your original idea to the very end,” she tells us. She explains that designing a collection is an extremely personal process, and that it brings out a wide range of emotions in the designer. She also tells us of her own experience with this, saying: “one day you feel inspired, and the next you doubt yourself and hate everything you do. I believe that most artists, if not all, go through this when creating new work.” As for when we can expect to see new and exciting things from Julia, she tells us that we might not have long to wait at all. “I am working on a side project with a friend at the moment,” she says of her new venture. Julia currently works full time in London as a design assistant, but is keen to continue her own design career. Of this new project she says: “its purpose so far is unclear but we are having a lot of fun doing it. It feels great to design new pieces of my own.” We will have to keep our eyes peeled for the unveiling of Julia’s next project as she is known to be fairly elusive about her work, but hopefully we won’t have too long to wait, as she told us that she “couldn’t ask for anything better than being a fashion designer”.

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the return of clean-cut lingerie

In colours limited to black and white, lingerie companies are starting to realise that simple is the logical progression for women’s underwear. In the face of a relentlessly sunny lingerie market, brands such as Hopeless Lingerie, Kiki de Montparnasse and La Fille d’O are flouting marketable common sense and going with their guts: stripping their lingerie back and producing stunning, bespoke pieces. For all of these brands, essentialism is key and they draw inspiration from everything around them: horror films to architecture, personal troubles to empowerment in the bedroom. Clean-cut, simple and elegant lingerie has had a sudden rise to popularity. So far the best examples are coming from lesser-known independent brands, people who love what they do and can customize the undergarment for the buyer. The shapes and cuts coming from these brands have a modern, architectural appearance with their cleancut lines and the absence of embellishments. Homegrown Australian brand Hopeless Lingerie is a frontrunner when it comes to simplicity and elegance. Owner Gabrielle Adamidis has said:

“Even with the limitation of two fabrics and 4-5 trims, there are still so many shapes and styles I could come up with. I really enjoy working with these limitations and seeing how far I can push them.” Gaby has refrained from making any undergarments using an underwire, as she runs the company from home and makes everything herself, but revealed that the next collection will have some surprises in store, “the most exciting of which is the first Hopeless Lingerie underwire bra [which is] simultaneously the most exciting and terrifying event in Hopeless Lingerie history”. Pieces by Hopeless have been featured in Playboy and worn by celebrities such as Britney; slowly but surely they are making their way into the limelight and leaving a lasting impression. Hopeless’ collection ‘The Death’, morbid as it may sound, is the perfect example of the iconoclasm that has started to define the brand. ‘The Death’ is a collection of extremely minimal silhouettes surrounded by pentagram harnesses, too many straps and gorgeous cage-frame add-ons. Of her inspiration, Gaby says: “I look at horror movies and dark themes and ask myself ‘How can I turn a grizzly and morbid subject matter into something beautiful?’”

c/o hopeless lingerie

Rebelling against the frilly, over the top lingerie of recent years by brands like Victoria’s Secret, Agent Provocateur and Boux Avenue, underwear has taken a turn towards the understated.

Bringing simplicity to the deluxe designer sector is Kiki de Montparnasse: a brand whose brilliant

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simplicity hasn’t gone unnoticed. Named after the woman who helped define the liberal culture in 1920s Paris, Alice Prin, who was nicknamed ‘Queen of Montparnasse’ and ‘Kiki de Montparnasse’, the name itself is a telltale sign of the brand’s attitude. The president of the ultra-luxurious designer brand, Kama Carnes, explains the brand saying: “More compelling than the historical reference is the spirit with which she celebrated her being. With elegant abandon, we continue to inspire the Kiki de Montparnasse experience of empowerment, sophistication, sensuality and joy in our celebration of intimacy.” Their ‘Expose’ collection has set a benchmark against which so many simple lingerie brands have come to be measured against. Their structured, black, long line bras, demi cups and block-sheer bodysuits are beautifully contrasted with their white silk-crocheted pieces and lace-inset camisoles. Belgian brand La Fille d’O are providing empowering, avant-garde lingerie and swimwear that can be worn daily. They have a made to measure fit system: the wearer can adjust their shoulder and girth straps to guarantee they always achieve the perfect fit. Owner Murielle Scherre has ensured that all the brands pieces are fully versatile: “La Fille d’O loves versatility and possibilities; wear your swimwear as lingerie, your lingerie as outerwear.” This brand have been making waves with their ‘Going Exact’ range –

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a collection of bras suitable for breastfeeding mothers and prosthetics for women recovering from a mastectomy. Every piece in their vast collection is handmade meaning that everything is of incredible quality on top of their silky soft fabric choices. These brands are not only redefining lingerie, but they are creating a whole new market, which until now had been left unchartered and not catered for. Mainstream brands will undoubtedly try to replicate the incredible pieces these brands have created, lets hope they can keep one step ahead of the game and keep us all on our toes.

the building blocks of religion

“If you want to be perfect, go and sell all your possessions and give the money to the poor, and you will have treasure in heaven. Then come, follow me.” (Matthew 19:21) According to St Thomas Aquinas, father of Thomism, God is infinitely simple. Over the years, great spiritual leaders of the past were never known for their assets or wealth; generally speaking, they lived simple and humble lives. Rather than filling their existence with material possessions, they favoured teaching and serving people to create a meaningful way of life. In spite of this, people around the world are living highly consumerist lifestyles. If so many people subscribe to religions built on simplicity, why aren’t they practicing the fundamental ideas behind them? Jesus is depicted as owning the clothes on his back and not a lot else, while Ghandi died with less than ten possessions to his name, and one of his most famous quotes was “live simply so that others may simply live”. The prophet Muhammad advised that “wealth is not having vast riches, it is in contentment”. Chinese philosopher and teacher, Confucius, taught, “life is really simple, but we insist on making it complicated”. Threads of simplicity are woven throughout all of the world’s religions, from

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Buddhism to Christianity, Judaism to Islam. Lao Tzu, founder of philosophical Taoism advocated simplicity; “I have just three things to teach: simplicity, patience, compassion. These three are your greatest treasures,” and he favoured eremitism, being unknown and drifting freely without societal pressure. All of these spiritual leaders preferred a simple, spiritual life to material possessions and taught simplicity as a way of life. In Christianity, the idea of simplicity is rooted in biblical teachings, and according to Richard Foster, author of The Freedom of Simplicity, this is “most perfectly exemplified in the life of Jesus Christ”. He goes on to say that “Christian simplicity lives in harmony with the ordered complexity of life”, and his book is almost a guide to this way of living. It is our natural tendency to live complicated lives, as society sends out the message that we should always be busy and involved, however this often means that we spend our time undertaking menial tasks and forget to evaluate what we actually want from our lives. The Christian faith teaches that through believing in God and following his word, we can simplify all of the problems in our lives. Devout Christian Judy Harris says simply: “Christianity narrows it down and keeps me centered and focused on what is true. There is only one God, one Savior and one way.

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That eliminates the muck that clogs my life.” Christian monastics live free from worldly ‘pleasures’, typically in an enclosed environment dedicated to Christian worship. Of course, there are many different types of monks, all of whom live slightly varied lives, but fundamentally they try to achieve a life whose ideal is different from the rest of the world, based on Jesus’s encouragement to “be perfect, as your heavenly Father is perfect.” This is simplicity in its purest form, excluding everything in the world that causes stress, however Richard Foster argues that simplicity in the heart can be achieved alongside the hustle and bustle of everyday life. “The fact that a paradox, complex simplicity, lies at the heart of Christian teaching should not surprise us. The life and teachings of Christ were often coached in paradox; such as ‘the way to find our life is to lose it’ (Matt, 10:39).” He continues, “Those with simplicity of heart understand the Lord, because much of their experience resonates with paradox.” The same philosophies apply within Buddhist teachings. Buddhist monks live a regulated life, doing the ‘right thing’ in the ‘right time and place’. Buddhist monk, Dhammacaro, teaches that wisdom begins with simplicity. He tells us that when he first became a monk, he was equipped with

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 four fundamentals: food, clothes, accommodation and medical care. “I was taught how to eat in moderation, wear a simple robe, stay in a simple place and sleep on the floor, even on the earth, and care for my health. All four requisites, I had to use with discipline which is called ‘consuming things with wisdom’.” He also speaks about how an important principle in monastic life is contentment, meaning that he has to be satisfied with the things that he has, as they are tools for maintaining his life. “They are not to be wasted” he continues, “Most of my time must be spent on education, investigation and the development of wisdom”. He makes the point that these principles are not just for monks, but they can also be applied to everyday life for the layperson. He also informs us that: “In the monastic rule, we don’t do anything for fun. We are trained to do everything to develop our life; reflecting on those in the past and in the present. With this discipline we don’t follow or satisfy our desire, and we know the right thing to do in life.” More generally speaking, Buddhism as a religion is all about enlightenment of the mind and soul. The word comes from ‘budhi’, which means ‘to awaken’, and to many people the religion is more of a philosophy or a way of life. According to the Buddha Dharma Education Association (BDEA),

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the three main principles of Buddhism are to lead a moral life: to be mindful and aware of thoughts and actions, and to develop wisdom and understanding. The foundations of Buddhism are rooted in minimalism, as important aspects include letting go of attachment and kindness and compassion. If taken literally in today’s society, this could mean letting go of attachment to our possessions, not allowing them to define us, and using our time more wisely to develop our relationships with the people we love. These basic Buddhist concepts logically complement minimalism, however as far as the Buddhist laypeople are concerned, owning possessions is not something to be ashamed of, more to be cautious of, as Buddhism maintains that suffering will occur if the mind allows attachment to material things. In the Islamic faith, the Prophet Muhammad lived a very simple life, and taught that Muslim people should “be in this life like a stranger or a traveller”. He taught that on judgment day, Allah would ask everybody about their lives and the more they have to answer for, the longer it will take and the more uncomfortable it will be. The Sura Al-Takatur section of the Qur’an, teaches: “Striving for more distracts you, until you go into your graves”, meaning that the more possessions we have and the more

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meaningless things we do each day, the less we actually achieve within our spirituality and the less we appreciate the presence of God in everyday life. Islam is a natural religion, and practicality is one of its most important teachings. The Prophet Muhammad lead his life as a normal human being in normal circumstances, rather than as an angel with superhuman qualities, and because of this he can be used as an example for the common man to live his life. He led his life according to what was practical, and abstained from actions that would have been impossible for the average person to mimic. For Muslims, The Prophet Muhammad is the greatest example of living minimally. Many Muslims that have adopted a minimalist lifestyle sleep on the floor in their homes to emulate the Prophet’s routine, and keep furniture to a minimum. That is not to say that all Muslims live this way, as the practice of fasting over Ramadan proves. Ramadan is an annual event in the Islamic calendar, where Muslims around the world undergo a month of fasting. Fasting takes place from dawn until sunset, and it is only acceptable to consume food or liquids while the sun is set. In its’ beginnings, the food consumed during Ramadan was a simple meal at night and before sunrise, however in recent

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 years, Muslims partaking in Ramadan have begun to have lavish feasts once the sun has set. The evening meal is referred to as Iftar, and over time it has grown into banquet style festivities, with some occupying banquet halls for 100 or more people. The original intention of Ramadan was for it to be a time of spiritual reflection and increased devotion and worship, but the simplicity of it has, in some places, been forgotten and replaced with more consumerist practices.

simplicity. Religious or not, most of us could benefit from taking these simple ‘rules’ or guidelines into account in our everyday lives. Living a simpler life is healthy for the body and mind, as it reduces stress and brings joy to the small but important things, like family and friendship, rather than focusing on money and power. If everyone in the world could go back to the fundamental ideas behind religion, the world would almost definitely be a more peaceful place today.

Hinduism has a very simple mantra: “Do good and be good. Serve, love, give, purify”. It has a wide range of rules and directions of daily morality, taken from Karma, Dharma and other societal norms. Hinduism is widely recognised as the oldest religion, and many refer to it as the “eternal way”, and depicts duties that Hindus should follow such as honesty, purity and self-restraint. Hinduism has developed many practices to help followers think of spirituality in the midst of the commotion of everyday life. Yoga is a big part of Hindu custom, as it trains the mind and consciousness for peace, health and spirituality, which is done through a series of exercises to control the mind and body. All four of these religions have one thing in common; they were built upon the foundations of

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