DECEMBER 2019 | JANUARY 2020
YOUR SOURCE
FOR FAMILY ADVENTURE
A RAINBOW OF ICELANDIC MOMENTS HOMESICK FOR THE HOLIDAYS: KEEPING TRADITIONS ALIVE CHRISTMAS IN A REFUGEE CAMP
CELEBRATE
ENJOYING HOLIDAYS WITH FAMILY AROUND THE WORLD
Come and join us for the most fascinating geology and history lessons you'll ever have.
At Exploring Iceland, we have been creating family tours for years, and we love to cater to your special wishes!
Iceland is a small island in the North Atlantic, populated with less than 400.000 Icelanders whose heritage goes back to the seafaring Vikings that travelled all the way to North America in the 10th century. A place full of natural wonders such as volcanoes, geysers, glaciers, ice, and lava caves, it also offers history to touch as we follow the footsteps of Eric the Red and Leif the Lucky. Iceland offers exciting, educational, and safe family-friendly travel.
www.exploringiceland.is info@exploringiceland.is Tel:+354 519 155 5
CO N T E N T S
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Insider’s Guide Where to go in Berlin
Feature Bringing Families Together in Iceland
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Op/Ed The privilege of holding a U.S. passport
Cultural Consideration Parma
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Outside the Classroom Tours through ancient Rome
Up & Coming
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Upcoming Events — What’s happening when
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Gear Up — Best travel backpacks
Travel Trends — European Christmas markets
Go Wild Snorkeling Brazil’s Bonito
Little Heroes — An award-winning foreign service teen Sketches — Artwork from the kids
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Features
Connect
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Bonding While Exploring Iceland — A rainbow of unique moments
Homesick for the Holidays — When you’re away from home on special days
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Christmas in a Refugee Camp — Spending the holidays giving to others
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Social Media — Families worth following Op/Ed — The privilege of holding a U.S. passport
Just Go — Creating community on the road
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Essay — Traveling for a better world
Editor’s Note
Go Wild — Snorkeling Brazil’s Bonito
Interview — Putting mom back in the photos with Mumpack Travel
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Cultural Consideration — Learn about the food customs of Italian cheeses and meats
Tips & Tricks
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Navigation — Technology, movies, and holiday traditions
35 39
Stopover — Bangkok, Thailand Skillset — Making your donation count, finding Santa, and traveling with other families
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Choose Your Own Adventure — Thai New Year
Insider’s Guide — Where to go in Berlin
Travel Trends European Christmas markets
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Outside the Classroom — Tours through ancient Rome In the Field — Vatican City
60 Choose Your Own Adventure Thai New Year
Feature Christmas in a Refugee Camp
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Worldschool Project — Paint like Michelangelo and other famous artists Bon Appetit — Taffy pulling, Three Kings cake, and Austrian cookies
Stopover Bangkok, Thailand
Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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Editor-in-Chief
Publisher
Managing Editor
Web Content Editor
Lauren Bordeaux
Social Media
Astrid Vinje Katryn Alexander
Advertising Manager
Meagan Haberer
Mandy Mooneyham Ali Nelson Zélie Pollon
Creative Design & Cat Chiappa Photography
Accounting & Finance
Senior Editor
Darcy Tuscano
Staff Writers
Darcy Tuscano Fiona Croucher Astrid Vinje
Copy Editor
Marie Reymore
Layout Design
Melanie Selvey
Aleksandar Cvetkovic
Everywhere Magazine is published six times each year in both digital and print format. Single issues are priced at $9.99 per print issue; subscriptions are priced at $59.95 for one year of print issues. To subscribe, visit everywheremagazine.com. Postage paid in Boise, ID and at additional mailing offices. For questions, contact Everywhere Magazine LLC at hello@everywheremagazine.com, 1.833.EVERYWHERE (1.833.383.7994), 1650 Targee St. #5322, PO Box 5322, Boise ID 83705. © Everywhere Magazine LLC. All rights are reserved. No reproduction is permitted without the prior written consent of Everywhere Magazine LLC. Everywhere Magazine LLC is not liable for any incorrect information or return of any submitted materials.
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COVER: JANVIER/STOCK.ADOBE.COM (AS EDITED BY ALEKSANDAR CVETKOVIC). PAGES 2–3 — MAP: HOPE/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; ICELAND: TOM ARCHER (COURTESY OF RYAN CONNOLLY AND HIDDEN ICELAND); PASSPORT: JEFF MCCOLLOUGH/ STOCK.ADOBE.COM. THIS PAGE: CAT CHIAPPA.
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H
olidays and special celebrations are anchor points throughout the years, with both novel and traditional elements that are comprised of moments that become memories. These memories help us honor our friends and family, ground our faith, and mark the passage of time. Our December/January issue is all about celebrating together. As a group, our staff and writers have celebrated countless holidays away from friends and family back at home. Each celebration is a time to honor traditions in a new way, with new people, and perhaps in a new location and add to our traditions from experiencing new places and cultures. Travelers are often far from their own families during holidays and special events, so it’s easy to become
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homesick, especially in unfamiliar surroundings. They may choose to celebrate alone, seek out new communities, or create new traditions. Genny describes how she made it work over Christmas and New Year’s in a non-Christian country, Darcy reminds us how uplifting others gives a new perspective, and Ryan invites us to look at the beauty surrounding us. We hope you find inspiration in these pages as you take time to build on your own traditions. Thank you for an entire year of celebrating with us as we share the stories of families who travel and their adventures!
MANDY MOONEYHAM
Editor’s Note
Make the Most of Your Central Florida Vacation – Volunteer at Give Kids The World Village! When a critically ill child wishes to visit Walt Disney World, SeaWorld or Universal Orlando, they stay at Give Kids The World Village, a magical, nonprofit resort. There, children and their families are treated to all-inclusive, weeklong vacations -- at no cost to them. The Village runs on volunteers and they need YOU! Help create magic next time you’re in Central Florida.
See how you and your family can get involved at givekidstheworld.org.
Contributors
Meet some of our talented writers
Lindsey Fenimore
Lindsey is a freelance writer and mom of four living in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. When she’s not busy icing her ankle from twisting it on the quaint cobblestone streets of San Miguel, she enjoys yoga and running, listening to music, and laughing at her own jokes (sometimes all at once).
Genny Arredondo
Travel enthusiast, adventure seeker, environmentalist: many titles can describe contributing author Genny. These days, she lives in Seattle and is known as “Mama” by her two young boys. She previously spent 13 months traveling around the world with her husband and plans on living abroad with her family in the near future.
Ryan Connolly
Ryan is the co-founder of a small, family-friendly travel company called Hidden Iceland. His expertise is in taking families into wilderness settings such as hiking on glaciers, ascending volcanoes, and discovering ice caves. When not adventuring in the wilderness, Ryan loves to teach families and friends about the science behind the northern lights and climate change while peering at the night sky.
Darcy Tuscano
Darcy developed wanderlust at age five when The Sound of Music showed her that a vast world existed outside of her life in the Midwest. Her volunteer work and travels have taken her throughout four continents and 35 countries. In 2015, with her wife, Kate, and their twin boys, she set off on her biggest adventure — moving to a small village on the Spanish Mediterranean coast to live, work, and educate. She is a writer, lover of the outdoors, and humanitarian aid worker.
Paul Carlino
Lauren Bordeaux
Lauren and her family currently live in Vienna, Austria. She and her husband have a daughter, son, and new baby. She loves to explore Europe with her family any chance they can get. Her family has traveled to 14 countries, not including their home country of the United States. She worldschools her kids and enjoys writing about all their adventures. She posts on Instagram about expat life, family travel, and worldschooling at @minivan_memoirs.
Fiona Croucher
Fiona’s first overseas experience was at age 16 on a stopover through Kuala Lumpur. Equal parts terrified and thrilled, she has since traveled to 43 countries and worked in the UK and Turkey. She is based in Western Australia with her husband and three young children. Her family travels at every opportunity, locally and overseas.
Astrid Vinje
Astrid is a lifelong traveler with a passion for experiencing new places and cultures. Her personal travels as well as 12 years of experience working in international development have taken her to the far corners of Asia, Africa, and Latin America. These days, Astrid travels around the world full time with her husband and two kids, living as modern-day nomads.
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ASTRID VINJE: HANER PHOTOGRAPHY; RYAN CONNOLLY: AMY ROBINSON PHOTOGRAPHY.
Paul's conventional life spent biking to work in the Washington, D.C. suburbs veered wildly off-course in 2016 when he and his family embarked on a year-long road trip to Panama in their 1985 VW Westy. Since then, Paul has traded in his position as an attorney for a large government agency for the life of a writer in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. He writes about expat life, worldschooling, overlanding, and taxes.
Stay Warmer. Play Longer.
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UPCOMING EVENTS
December 1, 2019–December 24, 2019 — Berlin, Germany: open a virtual door each day of December on Visit Berlin’s website (use Google translate to read it in English) to participate in Berlin’s advent calendar raffle and win prizes for an upcoming visit to Berlin. www.visitberlin.de/de/adventskalender-gewinnspiel December 5, 2019–January 12, 2020 — St. Peter’s Square, Vatican City: view the Christmas tree and life-sized nativity scene on display in the Square. December 23, 2019 — Þorláksmessa in Rekjavik, Iceland: march for peace in the streets with the locals, then take part in the tradition of eating fermented skate. January 1–December 31, 2020 — Parma, Italy: visit Parma during its tenure as Italy’s Capital of Culture (previously Palermo in 2018 and Matera in 2019). January 12–March 15, 2020 — Yucatan, Mexico: join Anahata’s inclusive worldschooling community for one, two, or three
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months during its winter season. anahata-worldschooling-community-winter.eventcreate.com February 3, 2020 — Antigua, Guatemala: meet other traveling families at Stone Soup’s next pop-up community. stonesouppopup.com/upcoming-community/antiguaguatemala April 1–14, 2020 — Worldschooling Central: join this organized family trip for two weeks in Indonesia. www.worldschoolingcentraltravel.com April 13–15, 2020 — Songkran Festival: this Thai New Year’s festival in Chiang Mai, Thailand, is celebrated with a legendary water fight. June 20, 2020 — World Refugee Day: take part in the United Nations’ World Refugee Day to help raise awareness about the world’s global responsibility for refugees and “to state that the world supports and stands with refugees.” www.un.org/en/events/refugeeday June 29–July 12, 2020 — At Home In The World Retreat: this retreat to Transylvania, Romania, is all about fostering family connection. athomeintheworldretreat.com
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November 15th–December 24th, 2019 — Chicago, Illinois, United States: snack on sausage while shopping for ornaments, table laces, cuckoo clocks, and other handmade treasures at Chicago’s Christkindlmarket, the nation’s oldest and most popular authentic German winter holiday market.
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GEAR UP
Darcy Tuscano
Best Travel Backpacks for Carry-On Only Travel T
rying to find the right bag for travel can be a huge challenge. With airlines charging crazy fees to check a bag, the popularity of "packing light" with carry-on luggage has surged. Yes, you could choose a wheeled suitcase, but a backpack makes more sense when you consider the cobblestoned streets of Europe, the broken sidewalks in Asia, the ease of getting it on and off buses, trains, and taxis, and the ability to squeeze it into more spaces than a wheeled bag (not to mention, you'll never have to worry about a wheel falling off). Plus, a backpack keeps your hands free to do other things, like holding onto your children or valuable documents. Whether you're going for a week, a weekend, or around the world, these backpacks have you covered. All those extra baggage fees you'll save by not checking a bag can now be put towards your fabulous adventures.
Key Features to the Best Travel Backpacks Size — It's worth noting that many European and Asian lowcost airlines have stricter requirements than U.S.-based airlines for bag size and weight. If you're looking for a bag that will fulfill carry-on requirements around the world, look for a bag 40L in size or smaller. Front-Loading Versus Top-Loading Design — Most travel backpacks are now front loading, which is easy to zip open and quickly find your belongings. A top-loading design requires you to reach into your bag and search for your gear, but using packing cubes can help organize everything. Load-Bearing Straps and Hip Belts — A correctly-positioned strap will distribute the weight load from your shoulders to the rest of your body. Look for shoulder straps with cushioning and a well-padded hip belt to alleviate sore shoulders and back pain. Cheaper bags often let you down in this area. Laptop Sleeve — Many packs today can safely stow your technical gear in padded compartments. Rain Resistance — Look for a bag with weather sealant. Also, consider styles that include a rain cover, or purchase a separate rain cover. There's nothing worse than a heavy, wet bag. Women's Versus Men's Features — While there are plenty of "unisex" bags on the market, the better-made packs are made with gender in mind. While the components of the bags remain largely unchanged, the fit and straps are made for different types of bodies, and that means more comfort for you.
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Our Top 5 Picks Tortuga SetOut 35L for Women Tortuga 40L for Women and Men $199 For frequent travelers and digital nomads, Tortuga's packs, though pricey, consistently rate at the top — and for good reason. The quality, rain-resistant material features an amazing array of zippered and sleeved compartments. These bags are game changers in keeping you organized. While not suitable for trekking, Tortuga bags will get you all over the world, including to work meetings, in style. Notable Features: • Front-loading • Excellent organizational compartments including a padded laptop compartment at the back, ensuring a stable load balance • Adjustable waist and chest straps • Hip belt with two zippered compartments • Stowable harness and detachable waist belt to transform your backpack to a duffel bag • Water-resistant 900D polyester material derived from recycled plastic bottles “The laptop sleeve meant it was super fast and easy for me to pull out my laptop at airport security and also pack it back up quickly. I love this feature. ”
BACKGROUND IMAGE: TONJUNG/STOCK.ADOBE.COM; TORTUGA BAG: COURTESY OF TORTUGA; OSPREY BAGS: COURTESY OF OSPREY; KELTY BAG: COURTSEY OF KELTY; TOM BIHN BAG: COURTESY OF TOM BIHN
Osprey Fairpoint 40L for Women and Men $160 This pack is lightweight and a great option for carry-on travel. Even though it's not a true trekking bag, you can easily take this bag on day hikes. The woman-specific bag seems to work better on those with longer torsos. Notable Features: • Front-loading • Secure laptop/tablet sleeve • Locks on the main zipper • Shoulder strap to transform backpack to duffel bag • Internal compression straps “I have the Osprey Farpoint 40 and love it. Just packed it again last night! Very comfortable (love the hip belt) and lots of room. It's comfortable for women and has held up very well.”
Osprey Fairview 40L/38L for Women $135–$160 Finally, Osprey has come out with a backpack not just for women, but specifically for smaller, shorter women! The specifications are nearly identical to the Osprey Fairpoint, giving all the petite ladies out there the perfect hiking and carry on backpack. Notable Features: • All of the pros of the Osprey Farpoint 40 (above) but specifically designed for petite women “I'm 5'1", and the Osprey Fairview 40 worked great for me for 12 days in Italy, with just the right amount of straps to stabilize the bag.”
Kelty Women’s Redwing 40 Backpack $95 This pack will see you through your adventures for a bargain price without compromising on quality or features. It's perfect for quick getaways, or if you've mastered the art of packing light, it could just as easily take you around the world. Notable Features: • Internal sleeve for holding a water reservoir or a laptop • Side compression straps for securing trekking sticks or an umbrella • Front pocket for organizing your travel documents • Airflow back panel for stability and comfort • Wide padded hip belt constructed specifically for a woman's body shape “While it is a top-loading bag, you can get organized easily with a few packing cubes. For this price, it's worth it.” Tom Bihn Aeronaut 45 $300 At the high end of the spectrum is Tom Bihn’s U.S.made carry-on bag. Also available in a smaller 30-liter size, this duffel bag is compartmentalized and can be carried three ways. Notable Features: • Designed and made in the U.S. with 100% finished seams • Backpack straps can be stowed away for a more professional-looking bag • Made with high-tenacity ballistic nylon and OEKO-TEX certified ripstop fabric • Internal frame, padded hip belt, and Absolute shoulder strap available for maximum comfort • Two sizes mean you can find the best fit for your height and carry on needs “I’ve carried this bag for a decade, and it still looks brand new. It holds everything I need for a trip of any length, and the threepocket design means I can find what I’m looking for without digging.”
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FAMILY CAN TRAVEL FIND THE ADVENTURE IN FAMILY TRAVEL
WHETHER IT'S SPENDING A WEEK ON A BEACH OR CLIMBING A MOUNTAIN, GET INSPIRED HERE! www.FamilyCanTravel.com
@familycantravel
SOCIAL MEDIA
Astrid Vinje
IT’S TIME FOR CELEBRATION!
Celebrating togetherness Travel brings families closer together. For the @adventuresoffour family, being together in nature is what makes travel worthwhile and meaningful. They love spending time as a family in the outdoors!
COURTESY OF @ADVENTURESOFFOUR, @THECHIANGGANG, @RAISE_BACKPACKERS, AND @THETRAVELLINGOLDENFAMILY (AS ATTRIBUTED)
@adventuresoffour
Celebrating adventure Our staff writer, Fiona, from @raise_backpackers, loves instilling adventure into her family’s travels. As she likes to say, “A bit of danger and thrill makes a better adventure, especially when you experience it with family, friends, or new friends!” It certainly does! @raise_backpackers
T
his time of year is all about celebration. Families celebrate the holidays, celebrate the New Year, and celebrate the joy of being together as a family. These traveling families show us that there are so many things about being a family that we can celebrate. Celebrating exploration “If you want in on the fun, you have to time it right and jump in.” That’s the philosophy behind @thechianggang family. To them, life is about exploration. While the unexpected may happen and the possibility of failure exists, families should take advantage of opportunities to explore when they arise. They’ll never know what good might come out of it. @thechianggang
Celebrating heritage Travel exposes families to new cultures, but it also allows families to appreciate their own cultures and heritages. Being Italian makes @thetravellingoldenfamily incredibly proud! @thetravellingoldenfamily
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Travel Trends
Darcy Tuscano
Best Family-Friendly European Christmas Markets T
he Christmas markets of northern Europe are nothing short of magical. Imagine strolling along medieval cobblestoned streets, bundled up against the cold, cradling a hot mug of mulled wine while gazing from stalls of homemade crafts and gingerbread to the spires of Gothic cathedrals in the distance. These markets are a fairytale paradise for kids and adults alike with hot chocolate, puppet shows, ice skating, and (of course) the chance to visit Santa Claus. Best of all, many open in late November and continue through Christmas, making it easy to plan a trip before the holidays and still be back home in time for a family celebration.
Cologne, Germany With the third tallest Gothic cathedral as its centerpiece, this epic market on the Rhine River attracts millions of visitors every year. The scent of roasted chestnuts (yes, on an open fire), hot mulled wine, cinnamon rolls, and gingerbread fill the air as holiday songs are sung by choraliers. Children will find their paradise in the Old Town Market complete with an antique carousel, a puppet theater, Santa Claus’s house, and countless toy stands. November 25 to December 23
Vienna, Austria Vienna’s market, over 700 years old, is held in various plazas and castle courtyards throughout the city. Take the kids to Christkindl’s Workshop to make crafty holiday gifts, decorate gingerbread cookies, and learn how to mold delicious marzipan into reindeer or a snowperson. November 15 to December 23
Dresden, Germany A gorgeous city anytime of the year, Dresden becomes a winter dream during the holidays. For 584 years, visitors have flocked to its unique festival, Streizelmarkt, for its wide range of Christmas wares, from very traditional arts and crafts to Ore Mountain wood products. Sample the typical stollen (fruit-laden sweetbread available only during the holidays) and help the kids choose a dazzling Moravian star as a memory for the Christmas tree at home. November 27 to December 24
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Brussels, Belgium While most markets shutter before Christmas Eve, visitors can celebrate the Christmas holiday and New Year’s as well at Winter Wonder Brussels. Be sure to see the market’s magnificent tree and catch the incredible light and sound show projected on the UNESCO World Heritage Centre La Grand-Place. For the nineteenth year running, a huge multimedia dome featuring concerts, movies, and familyfocused activities brings something different than the usual holiday market. November 30 to January 7
Nuremberg, Germany Arguably the biggest and best of all, Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt is one for the bucket list. Dating back nearly 400 years and holding 180 stalls, the Nuremberg markets have brought great joy to children throughout the years with beautiful tree decorations, colorful stars, and wooden nutcrackers. Children of all ages will delight in peeking inside the bakery where the famous spicy-sweet Nuremberg lebkuchen (gingerbread) has been baked for more than 600 years. It’s nearly impossible to leave without sampling a few of the many varieties and purchasing more for the perfect holiday gift. November 28 to December 23
Montreux, Switzerland / Castle of Chillon Montreaux is the chance to step back in time and experience a truly medieval Christmas festival inside a nearly thousandyear-old castle. Wander through the castle while listening to melodies and watching tumblers and fire dancers. Children can listen to folk tales, dip beeswax candles, dance with the jesters, or simply watch the various artisans at work. Afterward, make way to the nearby village of Montreux to find a wonderful market lining the shores of Lake Geneva. Explore Santa’s village and fill up on hot chocolate and crepes while waiting to catch a glimpse of Santa and his reindeer high above the market (yes, really!). Chillon Castle Medieval Festival: weekends only, November 30 to December 15 Montreux Christmas Markets: November 21 to December 24
Prague, Czech Republic During the holidays, Prague’s Old Town Square effectively turns into one giant Christmas market. Shop to the heart’s content for hand-carved wooden toys, delicate blown glass figurines, and every sort of decoration. Plus, it’s open Christmas Eve (unlike holiday markets in a lot of other European cities). November 30 to January 6
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Evian-les-Bains, France For a complete change from the usual Christmas market, head to this quaint French lakeside town for Le Fabuleux Village des Flottins. More festival than market, the focus is less on spending and more on experiencing. Each night, walk around the fires surrounding the driftwood sculptures and view different live performances. Afterward, children gleefully follow a band of merrymakers marching their way to an enormous tree in search of Santa Claus. December 13 to January 5
Innsbruck, Austria Twinkling lights and the sounds of traditional Austrian brass bands form the backdrop to this medieval festival with the twist of the Krampus (an elaborately-costumed, demonlike creature from Alpine folklore). There’s never been a Christmas parade quite like this before! And the kids can enjoy kiachl (freshly-baked farmer’s donuts served with sweet or savory toppings) and a pony ride or puppet show while they wait to visit Santa Claus. November 25 to December 23
Colmar, France In the ancient streets of the Alsace region town of Colmar, follow lights linking a labyrinth of five authentic miniature Christmas villages. Adults will find craftsmen producing unique products and many excellent wines to sample, while the kids will love the colorful animations, traditional toys, ice skating, and a special children’s choir serenading marketgoers with holiday songs from small boats in the canals. November 22 to December 29
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op/ed
Rebecca Eichler
The Privilege of Holding a U.S. Passport I
t’s only 10 a.m., and already the heat is blistering. It’s the tail end of the dry season in Peñas Blancas, the border zone between Nicaragua and Costa Rica, and our sweaty bodies are covered in a fine layer of dry dust whipped up from the road. We enter the stuffy Nicaraguan immigration office where fans listlessly push hot air here and there. The immigration officer takes a cursory glance at our blue passports, comparing our photos to our faces and waves us through. We open the door to exit Nicaragua and our senses are immediately assaulted by the mass of humanity in a type of no-man’s land waiting room between countries. A toddler wearing nothing but a heavy diaper tries to bolt past me through the door I had just exited. I look around for the child’s parent and instead see a slightly older boy doubled over as he rushes past me. He is trailed by his father, who has his hand cupped in front of the boy’s mouth. They make it a few more steps before the floor in front of them is covered in vomit. At least 50 other Haitian migrants are spread across the room in various poses of lethargy. It is evident from the smell of body odor and stale air that they have been stuck in this limbo for a long time. We pick our way through the room without a word and walk purposefully towards the Costa Rican immigration office approximately 100 meters away. We flash our blue passports and, once again, are waved through without question. We see another large group of Haitians waiting to cross into Nicaragua as we exit to Costa Rica. We learn that there are camps just beyond view,
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where hundreds of refugees have been waiting for months to continue their journey north to the United States. A few months later, I spend a week volunteering as an immigration lawyer in an asylum legal aid clinic in Tijuana, Mexico. For five days, I listen to tales of persecution and terror, of violence and cruelty and desperation. Salvadorans, Hondurans, Mexicans, Venezuelans, Cameroonians, Haitians, and others who have traveled here to the border, all united in their goal: to apply for and be granted protection by the United States of America. Every morning at 7 a.m., they gather at the plaza in front of the border checkpoint to see if their turn to apply has come. Most are forced to wait months before even being allowed to ask the U.S. for asylum. In the meantime, they struggle in rough conditions in shelters or on the streets in a dangerous border town with no resources to accommodate them. I advise them as best as I can about their chances for asylum, and at the end of the week, I pack my bag, walk across the pedestrian bridge to the border checkpoint, flash my well-worn blue passport once again, and cross into the United States. I know I am privileged. To many, this means having the financial resources to travel. I do so as much as possible with my family. I have often heard the comment, “you’re so lucky to be able to take that trip.” My children will have spent time on four continents and in dozens of countries before graduating high school. Indeed, it is an enormous privilege to be able to learn, grow, and experience personal change simply by traipsing
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around the world. The privileges afforded by our blue passports may not be as obvious. U.S. passport holders enjoy visa-free travel to over 170 countries in the world. When planning travel, I rarely need to consider visa restrictions. My biggest concern is finding the cheapest flight, not wondering whether we will be allowed to enter our chosen destination. Why is it important to recognize and understand our privileges? It’s important so we can understand that not everybody shares our reality. Privilege is the unearned advantages and opportunities a person has merely for being who they are. A United States citizen is privileged by virtue of being born in the U.S., providing the ability to cross most countries’ boundaries. The world is a more welcoming place for those who are able to explore it and a richer place for those who experience it in person. The vast majority of people do not enjoy the same freedom to travel as a United States citizen does. Having a passport does not mean the same thing to citizens of other countries. It’s often shocking for U.S. citizens to learn that there are countries — the U.S. among them — that are simply inaccessible to others because of where they were born. Recognizing privilege isn’t enough, though. Privilege comes with a responsibility to use it wisely as a tool for positive change. How can a U.S. passport be a tool for positive change? By using it. Get out in the world. Explore. Get off the beaten track, or at the very least, leave the all-inclusive resort and meet local
people. Step beyond the comfort zone and get into unfamiliar situations. Walk around the local market and eat food prepared by local vendors. Doing these things teaches us that people are basically the same all over the world and that we all want the same thing: to live and raise our families in safety with opportunities ahead. The privilege of travel obligates us to be more conscious of our freedoms. It also obligates us to understand our role in the world: those of us who live in safety with the luxury of free movement need to stand up for those who are endangered and trapped. Once upon a time, the United States was known as a leader in humanitarian protection, offering refuge to the tired, hungry, and poor. Today, news coverage of border detention facilities separating children from their parents and tens of thousands of refugees begging for protection are turned away paints a different picture. I hold the pollyanna-ish belief that travel is the answer to world peace, that recognizing our shared humanity means we cannot be enemies. So I urge us all: this holiday season, as we contemplate peace on earth, consider how travel can contribute. Rebecca N. Eichler is an international human rights lawyer. To support the work of the lawyers reuniting and defending the rights of families separated by inhumane immigration policies, learn more about Project Corazon at www.lawyersforgoodgovernment.org / project-corazon.
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JUST GO
Astrid Vinje
Creating Community On The Road A
The Lonely Life of Travel For a traveling family, the concept of community is often fluid and changing, and connections to other families can be difficult. When the idea of home shifts every few days, weeks, or even months, it can be challenging to connect with others outside of one’s immediate family, and extended periods of time away from friends and family from home can be lonely. That’s why the Stone Soup pop-up community resonates so much with traveling families, especially those who have been traveling for a year or more. It’s an opportunity for families to come together and connect before continuing on their separate paths. “I’ve always been a part of forming communities,” Azizi says on starting Stone Soup. “I just think people can do way more for themselves together. I really believe in the power of community . . . and how much we can produce together.” A Worldschooling Oasis in the Heart of the Yucatan The Stone Soup pop-up is not the only intentional community that exists for traveling families. In the heart of the Yucatan peninsula in Mexico, Patty and Christian Rojas have created a more permanent community, Anahata Worldschooling Community, dedicated to traveling families. Set in the town of Ek Balam amidst Mayan ruins, Anahata allows families to live in the compound for months at a time, participating in local cultural immersion activities and sharing meals with other traveling families. “We, as a family, were always looking for communities,” explains Patty. “We wanted a place where [our kids] could grow
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with friends and explore together and learn together. It just felt right to bring a community there.” Originally intending to develop Anahata as a retreat center, the Rojas decided in December 2018 to transform Anahata into a worldschooling community. Since then, families have come from all over the world to experience their center. Cultivating Communities on the Road It may seem challenging to cultivate a sense of community while being on the road, but it doesn’t have to be. Many communities like Anahata and Stone Soup exist around the world in countries like Spain, Portugal, and Canada. All it takes is a bit of online research to find the right groups. Even without joining a formal community, traveling families can still find ways to connect with others. Worldschooling and traveling family Facebook groups make it easier for families to facilitate communication and meet-ups with others. They also serve as useful resources for making initial connections with local families. Azizi cautions, however, that these groups aren’t a substitute for interacting in person. “Virtual [groups] are important,” she explains. “They can be a good place to set a foundation. But it’s still not a community. They shouldn’t replace face-to-face human interaction.” Creating a sense of community while traveling on the road can take work. But fortunately, families don’t have to do it alone. Opportunities for connections abound provided that families are open to taking them. At Villa Adi in Amed, families who were once strangers to one another are finding commonalities and connections that will last for years to come. “As humans, it’s innate that we yearn for connection,” adds Patty. “With the communities, you have an opportunity to connect with like-minded families.”
ALL PHOTOS PAGES 20–21: COURTESY OF ANAHATA WORLDSCHOOLING COMMUNITY
zizi Birkeland stands amidst a crowd of traveling families at the restaurant area of Villa Adi, a small resort in the fishing village of Amed in Bali, Indonesia. Around her, the scene is chaotic, with groups of people talking to one another and young children weaving in and out of the adults. But Azizi remains as steadfast as a tree, her focus fixed on the person with whom she’s conversing. It’s the first day of a month-long gathering of families called Stone Soup Family Pop-Up Communities, and Azizi, the founder of these pop-up communities, is ready and prepared. Many of the families participating in the pop-up community are new to the full-time traveling world. And many are also new to this type of experience: a meet-up of families who agree to live and interact together for a whole month. Azizi refers to this as an “intentional community.” But in many ways, it’s more akin to a combination of a conference, a retreat, and summer camp, with kids thrown into the mix. Since October 2018, Stone Soup pop-up communities have occurred three times in various locations around the world. Azizi hopes to hold another Stone Soup pop-up in February 2020 in Guatemala.
Creating A Community While Traveling Families don’t have to travel for months or years at a time in order to reap the benefits of a traveling community. Even families on short-term trips can build a sense of community when they travel. Here’s how. Set an Intention to Connect with a Community • Be intentional about selecting a community. • Research ahead of time whether that community is the right fit. • Make a plan to meet families while traveling. Actively Seek Out Local Families • Attend local community events or frequent community centers or public spaces where local families like to spend their time. • Join Facebook groups dedicated to families from a specific destination. Reach Out to Other Traveling Families • Find other families who are traveling to the same destination and make a plan to meet up with them. • Start a conversation with other families while traveling. • Use virtual networks and groups to create an initial contact with other traveling families. Take Part in Activities that Promote Connection with Others • Attend a worldschooling meet-up or family travel conference. • Sign up to participate in a pop-up community or stay in a worldschooling community. • Take advantage of opportunities to meet others by taking a class or a workshop. Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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GO WILD
Stephanie Frias
Snorkeling Brazil’s Bonito: A Freshwater Paradise
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ap-a-tap-tap. Tap-a-tap-tap. It’s the sound of little feet padding across carefully-placed wood planks lain beneath a lattice of sunbeams falling through the trees. Each flash of light imprints its own pattern across the forest floor, if only for a moment, just like the echoes of childhood reaching into the darkness of the forest, splashing happiness in their wake. “Mommmmy! Look at me! I’m an anteater, searching for my lunch.” And just like that, he flops to the ground on his belly. From full-speed to full-stop, nose to the planks in search of a tiny army of ants. We had just seen an anteater (as well as a toucan and capuchin monkeys) on our walk. But my son Nico, 5, had no idea yet that the day’s adventure would be more about the underwater
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world than the strange creatures that skirt beneath the trees of the Amazon basin. I reach down, placing my hands under his armpits, scooping him back to his feet. “Come on, little anteater! We’ve got to run; we’re getting left behind.” Although we’re always behind, typically falling to the back of any group, we catch up in just a few strides. His sister Mabelle, 6, is tucked under her daddy’s left arm, crouching over a railing at the end of the path. Together, they are peering over a natural pool of startling cerulean blue water. I hear her chattering to her father about fairies and know she is already falling under the allure of this magical place. Although we aren’t in the Amazon, we are near it, and this lesser-known
Brazilian destination just might be better than the legendary rainforest. Aptly living up to its namesake, Bonito (meaning beautiful in Portuguese), hides in the southeastern state of Mato Grosso do Sul, the gateway to the Pantanal (the world’s largest wetlands). We’re here in these unsuspecting landscapes to go snorkeling: freshwater snorkeling, to be exact, in the warm mineral-rich currents of the Rio Sucuri. Although my husband is an avid diver, the rest of us are less experienced in the water. Equal parts nervous and excited, our combined anticipation bubbles into a boil as we see the pathway descending right into the river. Although I have seen many pretty rivers in my life, this
one compares to nothing my eyes or imagination have ever contrived. Like something etched into the pages of a storybook, the river is fringed by soft green edges hugging the narrow waterway as clear and still as glass. We can see straight to the shallow bottom where the sky reflects onto the sandy floor, painting a blue carpet swirled with dancing golden fish. Our snorkeling guide beckons us into the water, gently stepping backwards into the living aquarium. He instructs us on how to float on our backs like turtles, being oh-so-careful not to disturb the precious ecosystem below. He points to a rope stretched beneath the planks of the walkway above, a place we can test our masks and get our bearings for the water conditions. Surprisingly warm at around 77°F (25°C), it doesn’t take Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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A feeling of serenity quickly envelops us. My husband and daughter are silent, heads fully immersed in the world of visual overlays presented by the earth, water, and sky. Although enamored by our surroundings, Nico and I struggle to find a rhythm. His awkwardness makes it a struggle for me to stay afloat, his movements often tipping me sideways or steering us towards the banks. But I must be connected to nature on a deeper dimension — for in one fell sweep, my hand calmly glides beneath his little body, pushing him by the hip over my shoulders and behind me. Like a duck or a turtle, I feel the strangest urge to carry him on my back while I swim. Nico is delighted, hooting and hollering, saying his Jungle Book dreams are coming true as he floats along the river like Mowgli on top of Baloo. I pull the snorkel from my mouth, telling him to hold onto my lifejacket with his hands and to let his feet float freely behind him. Immediately his weight comes off my body, and we begin to soar through the water in unison, me looking below and him looking above. Soon the current rewards us, bringing us close to my husband Carlos and Mabelle once again. We wave to each other from under the glassy river, holding hands, pointing out giant fish and snail shells, river reef, and mossy fallen logs. Above us, Nico sings to his surroundings, often stopping us to look up at water birds, monkeys, toucans, and macaws. We are the happiest bale of river turtles one ever did see, careening along the most epic freshwater paradise in South America.
Tips for Planning a Trip to Bonito • Although Bonito is by far a lesser-known gem of Brazil, a trip here is perfectly paired with trips to the nearby Pantanal, Chaco, and Iguazu Falls. • Be sure to plan for at least a week in Bonito. This ecotourism and adventure hub is the landing pad for more than 40 excursions, just one of which is freshwater snorkeling. Other attractions include lakes, waterfalls, and caves with related activities like spelunking, rappelling, canopy tours, ziplining, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, SCUBA diving, and more. Most tours are designed for ages 5 and up, although some sites are suitable for younger children. • Book visits and tours at least three months in advance as the number of visitors who can visit each site in this ecoprotected area is limited each day. All sites in Bonito can only be visited with a designated guide. • Combine a stay with tours offered at the eco-friendly, budget-friendly, family-friendly Bonito HI Hostel. Its staff members speak English, and the hostel accepts credit cards and PayPal and maintains high standards. Families can book private rooms with breakfast included and will enjoy the swimming pool, on-site cafe, and sprawling outdoor spaces. • Don’t be scared. All ecotours follow strict safety standards, providing adventurers with appropriate gear, guidance, and education. Prior snorkeling and swimming experience are not required. • Pack light. Snorkeling tours include wetsuits, snorkeling masks, and water shoes. A safety canoe follows snorkelers for the duration of the trip. Underwater Go-Pro cameras are available for rent on site. • Know your limits. This trip is not recommended for those with a fear of snakes, as native anacondas are sometimes spotted during snorkeling excursions.
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PAGES 22–23: LUCHQUEIROZ; PAGE 25 — SNORKELER: THIAGO; FISH: LUCHQUEIROZ; SEA GRASS & BOARDWALK: DOMINIK RUESS (ALL STOCK.ADOBE.COM)
too much prodding to get the kids into the water. The current is stronger than was visible from above yet mild enough to be warranted a lazy river. Mabelle offers a little fuss to her father, suddenly aware that she is in a wild place and not a swimming pool, but her panic wanes in the exact moment that she puts her face into the water and sees the magical world beneath her. Hand in hand, daddy and daughter gently drift to the center of the river. Meanwhile, Nico is glued to my hip in the water, reminding me of the days not long ago when he was just a toddler. He’s not a good swimmer yet and isn’t the least bit interested in putting a mask on his face. We are here, floating in this mystical forest, needing to make a decision to stay or go. He’s old enough now that I’m not willing to sacrifice my experience for his, so I offer him a chance to ride in the canoe that will follow us along the river. But separation doesn’t appeal to him; instead, I coax him into letting go of me and testing the water. Outfitted with a wetsuit and tiny lifejacket, it’s literally impossible for him to sink or flip over, so I dare him to try. His effort is met with a fit of giggles as he feels a sense of empowerment over the situation. He sways, kicks, twirls, and bobs, indeed finding it impossible to drown, let alone get his head beneath the water. With his newfound sense of confidence, he blows me a kiss and happily paddles away. However, he is quick to notice that the current could quickly take him out of my reach and begs me to loop my fingers through his life jacket to keep him close.
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Fiona Croucher
Interview
Mumpack Travel: Backyard to Backpack
ALL PHOTOS PAGES 27–29 COURTESY OF EVIE FARRELL
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vie Farrell made the unconventional decision to take a break from her life in Sydney, Australia, and embark on a life-changing adventure with her young daughter. Her new book, Backyard to Backpack, describes how and why she chose this path. Following a relationship breakdown, the death of a dear friend, and five years of juggling full-time work with being a solo mom, Evie had a wild idea: she would take the money she had been saving for home renovations, sell or store all her things, and take her then 6-year-old daughter Emmie to Southeast Asia for a year. They would spend all their time together with no deadlines, no 12-hour workdays, and not much of a plan. Refusing to be influenced by anyone else’s expectations, Evie and Emmie got on that first plane in 2016 from Sydney, Australia, to the Philippines and have since become a top family travel influencer on social media. Mumpack Travel has over 100K followers on Instagram and a hugely popular blog. Evie and Emmie have inspired countless people to travel with young children and dispelled many myths about Asian countries, their people, and their cultures. After their epic journey came to an end, Evie was approached to write a book about their experiences. She penned Backyard to Backpack, and it was released in 2019. The book tells of Evie’s life and what led her to make such a radical decision and tells a rich tale of all the colorful encounters in Asia she and Emmie shared. Evie and Emmie became closer by spending every day together, living the highs and lows, and problem solving when things didn’t go according to plan. They got lost, sick, scammed, and had their fair share of bad luck. This is trivial, of course, compared to making friends in far-flung places, snorkeling, hiking, ziplining, trying new food almost every day, and having an array of other vibrant experiences. They discovered new things on the road. In response to seeing elephants chained for tourism and performing, they brought attention through their social media following to campaigns such as the Elephant Valley Project urging tourists not to ride elephants.
Evie says there were weeks where she was barely in a photo because she didn’t like the way she looked or was the only one taking photos, so she made a conscious decision to change that. She created #mumsinphotos and #momsinphotos, which aim to get more moms in front of the camera rather than behind it. She is also passionate about changing the stigma surrounding solo moms. Evie’s thoughts on many issues changed with her travels, and she wasn’t afraid to say so. She had a few experiences where she thought she and Emmie were doing the right thing and then realized the impact their actions were having on the local community. They also realized that the best way to help the communities they visited was to buy local — local food, local accommodation, and local tours — so the money they spent stayed in the local economy. Via Mumpack Travel, Evie and Emmie have shown that the unwritten rules of a steady job and a mortgage in the suburbs don’t set the right path for everyone. Taking a chance was just what the two of them needed, and Evie hopes that Backyard to Backpack will be the inspiration for other families to take a chance, too. Backyard to Backpack is for sale on Amazon and at Book Depository, Target, and Barnes and Noble. Connect with Evie and Emmie at Mumpack Travel on Instagram, Facebook, or through their blog at mumpacktravel.com. Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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EXCERPT
And here we go Emmie and I sat side by side on the plane, grinning the biggest smiles of anyone on the flight, our matching Bon Voyage eye masks propped on top of our heads. We couldn’t sit still, we had ants in our pants with the anticipation of taking off. We chattered away, made up silly songs, giggled, wiggled and held hands, and told each other how excited we were to finally be together and how much we loved each other. I’d had a celebratory glass of bubbles and a cheese plate in the Qantas lounge while Emmie had tucked into some ice cream and said more goodbyes to Mum on the phone. I knew this would be our last visit to the lounge—it was one of the lifestyle perks I was saying goodbye to now I was officially unemployed, but it felt right to be flying Qantas out of Australia on the first leg of our trip. The start of our adventure was kind of a soft launch. I’d chosen the Philippines because of its thousands of gorgeous islands scattered across the Pacific Ocean and South China Sea. I thought its tropical vibe would suit our celebratory beginning. We had three-month visas and would spend the first twelve weeks of our trip roaming around and exploring the islands, but that was as far as my planning went. After all the rushing around and farewelling and packing, I was pretty tired. I felt we’d need to land with little fuss and spend a few days recharging, so while I was working and had the money, I’d booked us two nights at the fancy Shangri-La resort in Cebu. It was our first stop, and
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Evie Farrell
we would use the time to reset and plan our next move in a bit of luxe. Philippines, we were on our way! The plane sped down the runway and Emmie and I held hands and started a ritual that we would continue for every flight. ‘And here we go,’ we said together as we lifted off into the sky. We landed in Manila late at night, commemorating our arrival with our new little saying as the wheels touched down: ‘And here we are.’ We connected to another flight on Cebu Pacific Airlines, where they played Top 40 hits as we boarded and held giveaways during the flight. Emmie won a pink travel wallet and we were feeling good when we landed on the island of Cebu. As we walked out of the airport into the steaming hot night air, Emmie grabbed my arm. ‘Mum, that’s our names,’ she said excitedly, pointing to a man holding a sign. ‘Really? What? Where?’ I skeptically scanned the crowd waiting near the exit. Yep, there were our names! Evie and Emmie Farrell written on a sign held by a man in a suit and a driver’s cap. The resort had sent a car for us. This really was fancy! We pushed our trolley over and said hello. The driver loaded our luggage into the boot of the hotel car and we climbed into the coolness of the soft leather seats. ‘Welcome to the Shangri-La Mactan,’ he said. ‘Please take a cool towel and some water, and enjoy your ride to the resort.’ What a way to start our first night away on our big adventure. It was a sign of good things to come, I was sure. ‘Mummy, I love our year of travel!’ Emmie said. ‘It’s not going to be like this all the time,’ I said with a laugh. ‘But we are so very lucky!’ As we drove towards the resort, we gazed out the tinted windows at messy streets lined with small shacks made of metal cast-offs, and families obviously struggling to make a living. In the Philippines, more than one-fifth of the population lives below the poverty line and many are unable to provide an education for their children. I was immediately hit with the contrast of our lives, and it reaffirmed how fortunate we were to even dream of travelling like this, and so, so lucky to have the ability to make it happen. While we were going to a resort right now, for most of our time away we would be staying at guesthouses owned by locals, using local transport and contributing to the local economy. I still hadn’t quite figured out how to help Emmie understand poverty, but I wanted her to know that many families face incredible hardships, yet continue every day with resilience and optimism. I wanted her to understand how she could support
others in a way that was actually helpful and made a long-term impact. We arrived at the resort after more than twelve hours of travelling, and checked into our gorgeous room. It was the first night of our trip, and I wish I could have bottled the air. I felt like joy was radiating from our bodies as we jumped around the room before falling asleep. A few hours later, I was woken by a little face pressed into mine. ‘Mummy, we are on our big adventure! Let’s go to the pool.’ I had my priorities straight though. ‘Soon, Emmie. Buffet breakfast first!’ We spent the day in pure happiness—along with disbelief that this was really, finally happening—swimming and playing in the pools and the ocean, and trying to rest, which was just about impossible with Emmie’s energy. The resort was just what we needed to start our trip, and it got even better when Emmie made a friend. Well, I think his mum made friends with me first. I was lying on a sun lounge, having excused myself from Emmie’s intense pool game schedule, when I felt a bump. I looked up to see an elegant lady perched at my feet. ‘Hello,’ she said, sticking out her hand and speaking in that rapid-fire way Hong Kong women do. ‘I am Rajani. I saw you here and wanted to say hello. My son is six and if he and your daughter play together, we will both get some time to ourselves. Can I offer you a drink?’ Rajani was from Hong Kong, and was on holidays with her family. She and her husband had hangovers from the night before, and while he was still in the room, she felt the best way to fix her problem was a swim and more wine. I loved her on sight. Emmie and Rajani’s son, John, played on the waterslides while we chatted on the lounges. Her husband wandered down and we all played hide-and-seek on the beach, swam in the ocean, fed the tropical fish and relaxed. We were having so much fun that on day two of our trip, I broke the budget—already! Day two!—and extended for one more night. We stayed with our new friends, watching the cultural show, eating suckling pig and drinking beer while Emmie and John joined the Filipino performers on stage for traditional games and dances, their nimble feet tapping between fastmoving bamboo poles. The next day we were ready to go. As we were leaving our room, Emmie flew a little paper aeroplane onto the bulkhead above our bed. She had drawn a picture and a holiday message on the paper and it’s probably still there now, or maybe another family found this little travel love note on their adventures. I hope so. The hotel car dropped us to the ferry terminal and I felt like a bit of an imposter until it had driven away. I had my backpack on
my back and my daughter by my side and we stood in the queue to buy ferry tickets to the island of Bohol, about two hours from Cebu. Now our real adventure was beginning! The port was dusty, dirty and gritty, the kind of place where buildings look almost finished yet simultaneously about to collapse. There was a mishmash of walls and fences, machinery and dusty roadways, and a metal maze for people to queue in as the dust swirled and the man at the one open window slowly sold tickets. I loved it. This was what I’d been waiting for, to be out in the world with Emmie. And to be honest, I was feeling pretty cool with my backpack. Yep nothing to see here, just a mum off to explore the world with her daughter by her side. I felt like I was going to burst out of my body. We bought our tickets, labelled and dropped the backpack onto a trolley for loading into the ferry hull, and waited under a tin shed for boarding, playing Uno and sweating in the heat. Things were going well, and we arrived in Bohol after a comfortable two-hour ride across the Cebu Strait. Once our bag was carefully thrown out of the hull, I heaved it onto my back and off we clomped down the long concrete wharf in the sunshine. We negotiated a rate with a tricycle driver waiting outside the terminal and motored along to a small guesthouse up the hill from Panglao beach that I’d booked the day before. I didn’t like being locked in, and last-minute bookings were how we rolled, but this time I was lucky to get anything at all. It was peak season as well as the Chinese New Year holiday, and accommodation was expensive and scarce. I’d had no idea and made a mental note to check for holidays in the countries we were traveling to, which of course, I never did. Our room at the guesthouse was on the ground floor of a family home. It had a double bed made up with sweet floral sheets and a tiny ensuite. The host looked offended when I rolled out our sleeping sheets, and I felt bad, but I’d travelled with a sleeping sheet since my early backpacker days. It’s simply a silk slip that hooks over a pillow and is used like a sleeping bag, so you don’t have to touch the guesthouse or hostel sheets or pillow. As it turned out, we rarely used our sleeping sheets after the first few weeks of our travels, although Emmie loved hers whenever I pulled it out. The standard of accommodation had improved so much since I first went backpacking and, although we were still budget, we were nowhere near the dodgy level I hit back then with Jacqui. Those were the days, though. Remembering how vast the world seemed then makes me sad about the speed of development today. How much will be left undeveloped by the time Emmie is old enough to take off on a trip? Where will the explorers go when everything has been discovered?
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Navigation
Fiona Croucher
Movies to Inspire Wanderlust in Your Kids LATIN AMERICA
Dora and the Lost City of Gold (2019) Set in the city of Los Angeles, California, and the Amazon jungle of Peru, Dora has incredible adventures. This live-action version is more fun for adults than its cartoon counterpart and is suitable and engaging for children of most ages. Coco (2017) The theme of this animated movie set in Mexico is the Day of the Dead. It follows Miguel, a young boy who dreams of becoming a musician even though his family has banned all music. With beautiful imagery, it’s also a touching film of family connection and reverence.
EUROPE
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atching movies with your children can be a great way to initiate discussions about different places and cultures. You can inspire wanderlust in your children by using films as a tool to introduce a destination for your travels or as a way to learn about other places from the comfort of home. Don’t forget to check individual ratings and reviews to ensure they are appropriate for your children.
NORTH AMERICA
Anne of Green Gables (1985) Adapted from the original book published in 1908, this film is set on Prince Edward Island, Canada. This children’s classic has been portrayed in many movies and miniseries over the last 100 years, the most popular released in 1985 and 2000. These books and films have led many children to want to visit this province of eastern Canada.
A Dog’s Way Home (2019) After a move to New Mexico, USA, an adventurous dog undertakes a journey traveling through the mountains of Colorado as he heads back to his owners in Denver. This movie can help generate discussions about national parks, hiking, and the native animals of the mountain west.
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Leap! (2016) Released as Ballerina in some countries, Leap! is the story of Félicie, a French orphan who dreams of going to Paris, France, to become a ballerina. This animated film has lovely scenes of 1880s Paris. Paddington (2015) and Paddington 2 (2018) These movies depict the adorable bear Paddington and many of the wonderful sights of London, England, including quaint antique stores, red buses, and famous underground “tube” stations. Much of the movies were filmed in the real locations such as the Natural History Museum, and most can be visited with a little research beforehand. There are also a few scenes set in Peru. The Water Horse (2007) Set in Scotland in 1940, this film tells the story of a young boy who finds a mysterious egg along a coastline and takes it home to hatch. The Water Horse is based on Celtic legends such as the Lochness Monster. The Sound of Music (1965) An undeniable classic, The Sound of Music will have your kids longing to run up and down the mountains of Austria singing their hearts out. And they can — it’s possible to stay overnight in the original home of the Von Trapp family in Salzburg, now called Villa Trapp.
ASIA
Abominable (2019) This film begins in Shanghai, China, and follows a city girl who takes on the task of returning Everest, a yeti she found, to his home. Children of Heaven (1997) This award-winning film from Iran has a simple plot about a young boy who lost his sister’s shoes after having them fixed. Children will need to be old enough to read the subtitles as the audio is in Farsi. Lion (2016) Suitable for older teens and adults, Lion is an unforgettable (and true) story about a little boy who gets lost in his home country of India and is eventually adopted in Australia. As a young adult, he begins the search for his parents back in India.
AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND
Tomorrow When the War Began (2010) This film, based on a famous young adult book where some high schoolers go camping in remote bushland in Australia, is best for teens. When they return to their town, they discover that it has been captured by soldiers from a foreign country. This story has also been adapted into a Netflix series, and there are many more books that continue the saga. Paper Planes (2014) Paper Planes follows a boy in Australia who has a talent for making paper planes and dreams of competing in the World Championships in Japan. Whale Rider (2003) Set and filmed in New Zealand, this movie depicting the Maori culture tells the tale of a young girl who wishes to become chief of her tribe, a role which traditionally has been only for males.
AFRICA
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PACIFIC ISLANDS
Moana (2016) Set on a fictional Polynesian island, Moana is an animated musical suitable for all ages. Moana’s family wants her to stay on her island, but she feels a pull to explore “beyond the reef.” Return to Nim’s Island (2013) Starring Bindi Irwin (the daughter of the late Steve Irwin, “the Crocodile Hunter”), this sequel to Nim’s Island is set on an uninhabited Pacific Island where Nim lives with her father, surrounded by exotic animals and living endless adventures.
The Lion King (1994/2019) Set in an unspecified country in Africa, the original and new animated films depict native animals and scenery of the African savannah, all set to the tune of African music. The Lion King is also a very popular musical theater show. Tarzan There have been many cinematic remakes of Tarzan, whose title character first appeared as a book character in 1912. Tarzan is a young man who grew up in the jungle in Africa raised by great apes and later rejects modern society. Some animated versions are suitable for children; check individual adaptations.
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Navigation Holiday Memories From Around the World
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e asked travelers to tell us about their holiday experiences while traveling, including any new traditions they’ve adopted along the road. Here are a few of our favorites.
Several years ago, when my son was only 9, we spent Christmas in Oaxaca, Mexico. I’m a single mother, so it doesn’t occur to me to receive a gift. But this year my son wanted to buy me something. We entered a crowded market, and I sent him off with US$5, a fortune for the surrounding little craft booths. After 15 minutes of nailbiting anxiety — was it OK for him to be alone in this big market? what if he got lost or God forbid, kidnapped? — he turned the corner with the biggest smile I’ve seen in years. In his hand was a plastic container holding my Christmas gift: a little brown, furry hamster. We named him Super Fluff.
Zélie Pollon
We once had the most magical Christmas ever in Guatemala. We split up to buy secret gifts in the market for each other, kids and adults alike, with a set amount of dinero (money), US$5–10. We then wrapped the presents in scarves and other things we had around. After a Christmas breakfast, including masa panqueques (pancakes), oranges, and hot cocoa, we opened the special goods. The whole thing was just so real and heartfelt, such a change from the commercialization here [in the United States]. We've tried to recreate that time, but without those circumstances, it hasn't been the same. “Create your own ritual” is my message to myself.
Kim Davis
We celebrate Winter Solstice with spontaneous madeup rituals and by deciding on a couple of things we want to accomplish [for the upcoming] year.
Eve Sibley
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When we helped open a new university in Abu Dhabi in 2000, the rules were such that only Islamic holidays were days off. On Christmas Day, the faculty (from about 25 different nations) arrived to work as normal, but the students (all Emirati women) were horrified that we should work on what they described as one of our holiest days. They refused to go to classes and petitioned the administrators to let us have the holiday off. After that first year, it was. They were such lovely and caring students.
Kate Green
When the kids were 13 and 10, we were in Flores, Guatemala, for Christmas. We gave them about US$15 each and took turns shopping with each of them in the local markets and shops for each person in the family, spending $5 on a gift for each person. We also bought a tiny artificial tree and set it up. In the weeks prior, we also bought Mexican fabric and sewed our own stockings (a homeschool lesson!).
Rebecca Eichler
My family loves starting Christmas morning by popping open Olde English Crackers. We put on the crowns and take turns reading and laughing (far too hard) at the corny jokes!
Genny Arredondo
We like to travel to warm sunny destinations for Christmas. For Christmas abroad, I pack a small Christmas tree, and each person in our family picks one ornament to take with us. At the beginning of the trip, we pick names out of a hat, making sure not to let anyone else know who they have. Each person spends the equivalent of US$20 on their Christmas person while on vacation, shopping at markets. This can be challenging because everyone is together! On Christmas morning, Hubby and I go out and buy treats from the local market, set up the Christmas tree, and play Christmas music. We have everyone bring in their gifts and put them around the Christmas tree. The gifts are always wrapped very uniquely — in plastic bags, newspaper, pillowcases, whatever we can find on hand. We feast on treats, open gifts, and laugh hysterically! Once done with our Christmas morning tradition, we take our Christmas tree and our music and head to the beach, [wear] Christmas hats, make sand angels, have crab races, and enjoy our day!
Trish Daniels Siegrist
Lindsey Adams Fenimore
Navigation
Helsinki in Headphones: Kids, Technology, and Travel T
here’s no doubt that technology has changed the world of travel. Portable devices make long plane and car rides more comfortable for anyone with children and allow for learning on the road without packing books, board games, cameras, compasses, art supplies, and musical instruments.
PAGE 32 — GERBIL: ULTRAPRO; MEXICAN BLANKETS: PAUL RUSHTON; OLDE ENGLISH CRACKERS: MONKEY BUSINESS; TREE ON BEACH: LEAH-ANNE THOMPSON; PAGE 33: COURTESY OF EPIC!
Epic!
IT’S ALL ABOUT BALANCE AND FLEXIBILITY
The benefits and drawbacks of screen time for children is a hotly debated topic. Studies run the gamut, showing everything from detrimental to negligible to beneficial effects of technology use among children. The American Psychological Association suggests zero technology use for children under 18 months old and strict limits for older children and teens. They cite studies indicating technology use is linked to obesity, drug use, and low academic achievement. Alternatively, a January 2019 study published in the University of Oxford’s Nature Human Behaviour shows a negligible effect of technology on adolescent behavior and psychological well-being. There are also undeniable benefits to having access from anywhere to resources like coding, animation, math games, e-books, music, and peer communication. Karen King (worldschoolingcentral.com) and her husband Cameron have been traveling full time with their son and daughter, ages 14 and 9, for four years. Above all else, Karen recommends flexibility to balance the good and bad of technology while traveling. Some days lend themselves to nature, art, and exploration, while others (such as travel days) are electronic-device heavy. She also sees the benefits of technology in her kids’ lives. “I’ve discovered that technology teaches them so much more than I expected....They learn and explore at their own rate, and the results have been incredible,” Karen adds.
WHO’S IN CHARGE? INSTALLING PARENTAL CONTROLS
Parental controls are an easy way to place certain limits on a child’s device usage by offering time limits, blocking certain types of websites, and restricting which apps are accessible at what time of day. Android and iOS have these basic parental controls built into their operating systems, and third-party apps and software allow additional parental controls. • Net Nanny — Net Nanny also allows for web history monitoring, remote blocking, location tracking, and social media monitoring. It’s especially wellreviewed due to a sophisticated and nuanced filtering capability
that deciphers between innocuous websites containing blocked words (such as a recipe website calling for “chicken breast”) and less desirable websites. Family subscriptions start at $54.99/year for up to five devices. • ScreenTime — this app allows parents to schedule screen time, shut off all access instantly, manage app approval, monitor web history, and track location. Basic monitoring tools are free, while the full package is $6.99/month for up to five devices.
OH, THE PLACES YOU’LL GO! EDUCATIONAL APPS FOR LEARNING ON THE ROAD
App selection has increased tremendously since the days of idle play. From math and reading to composing music and creating art, there are endless options for learning on the road. • Monster Math — this free app for kids in grades K—5 helps kids practice math in a fun, animated, and engaging video game format that helps keep skills fresh while traveling. • Duolingo — this animated language-learning app for everyone 4 and up makes language learning fun through its game-like format and cheerful interface. The basic app is free, with an ad-free version that’s also available offline for $9.99/month. • Khan Academy — this free, comprehensive learning app builds math, reading, writing, language, and problem-solving skills for adults and kids. The program is customized, adaptive, and progressive. They also have an animated kids app for ages 2-6. • Epic — this digital library with over 35,000 e-books, audiobooks, and videos for kids 12 and under has chapter books, full-color picture books, and a read-aloud option. Subscriptions start at $7.99/month. • Garage Band — this free digital music workstation and recording studio allows users to play virtual instruments (guitar, keyboards, drums, and more), create beats, and mix and share professional-sounding recordings. This one is just for iOS users. • Ibis Paint — this free painting and drawing app works well for young children (4+) just learning to draw as well as older teens with sophisticated art skills. Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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STOPOVER
BANGKOK
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hailand has been one of the world’s top tourist destinations for years, and Bangkok, its intriguing and perpetually surprising capital city, is one of its main draws. It’s easy to see why: the diversity of the city and its attractions appeal to a wide range of travelers. Whatever interests you — history and culture, art and architecture, dining and shopping, sports and entertainment, or just kicking back and watching the world go by — you are sure to find something to do in Bangkok. With two major international airports connecting flights from North America, Europe, and wherever else you may happen to find yourself in the world, getting to Bangkok won’t be a problem; you may find pulling away to be much harder, however. IF YOU HAVE ONE DAY
Taking a boat trip is an inexpensive and easy way to see many of Bangkok’s major attractions and experience a more traditional side of the city. Founded on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, Bangkok’s original highways were not streets and roads but a vast network of klongs (canals and tributaries). Although many of these minor waterways have been paved over, many wats (temples), markets, and homes are wateroriented, and the river is still an important means of commerce and transportation. For only a few baht (less than a dime, as US$1 is around ฿30), you can hop on and off the public Chao Phraya River Express boat, which operates essentially as a water bus. The change of scenery will keep kids of all ages occupied, and with stops at many of Bangkok’s major attractions, your family can pick and choose to visit whichever sites interest you the most. Two of the stops provide access to attractions at the top of every must-do list while in Bangkok: Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace at one and Wat Pho at another. Wat Phra Kaew, known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, adjoins the Grand Palace, the official residence of the King of Thailand since 1782. Together, the Temple and Grand Palace encompass over 100 buildings of various architectural styles with mosaicencrusted pillars, carved marble pedestals, gilded statutes, and
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murals illustrating Thai history. Wat Pho is the oldest temple in Thailand and is home to the largest reclining Buddha. When visiting any temple, remember that these are religious sites, so keep voices low. Be sure to wear clothing that covers shoulders and knees, and be prepared to remove shoes or sandals before entering any shrine or other holy building. Once your tiny travelers have tired of playing tourist, do as the locals do and rehydrate with a nutritious, fresh-squeezed juice and grab a tasty bite at the street food stalls before hopping back on the boat. Ride it beyond the city center to the countryside, where you’ll witness a tranquil river scene with plenty of greenery. The Chao Phraya River Express is easy to navigate. It operates four public lines, each one recognizable by the color of the flag at the back of the boat, that ply different lengths of the river (the fare depends on the line chosen). Another slightly more expensive line, identified by a blue flag, serves only the primary tourist sites but entitles riders to an unlimited number of trips on the same day. See www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com for details to plan your route. IF YOU HAVE TWO TO THREE DAYS:
If you happen to find yourself in Bangkok on a weekend, make your way out to the Chatuchak Market where thousands of vendor stalls (yes, thousands) peddle everything from Thai clothes to hand-carved musical instruments, orchids, herbal remedies, opium pipes, live snakes, religious amulets, and local crafts. Keep a close eye on your kids — it’s crowded! As with other markets in the city, haggling over prices is expected, but the volume of competition means prices are pretty reasonable to start. If you are buying in bulk from a single vendor, be sure to ask for a percentage discount. But saving face is very important in Thailand, so respect the shopkeeper and know when to stop haggling over a dollar. There are also plenty of food stalls at the market serving up tasty grilled meats and seafood and other authentic Thai fare —
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IF YOU HAVE FOUR TO SEVEN DAYS
Chances are, it will be hot in Bangkok no matter when you visit, as average temperatures exceed 85°F (29°C) all year, so plan
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your week around a mix of indoor and outdoor activities. In addition to the outdoor activities described above, Bangkok has plenty of indoor attractions to interest families, ranging from the more familiar 21st-century activities like shopping at the mall and amusement, water, and trampoline parks to those with a more cultural gloss such as museums, markets, and Thai theater. To beat the heat and get a taste of modern-day opulence, make your way to the IconSiam mall for a day of indoor shopping and people-watching. Opened at the end of 2018, IconSiam is Bangkok’s newest modern attraction housing two shopping malls, dozens of restaurants and hotels, a floating market, a museum, and a riverside park and walkway. Other popular malls around town, such as Siam Paragon and CentralWorld, also offer indoor shopping, dining, movie theaters, playgrounds, and more. The Bangkok Snake Farm is home to hundreds of reptiles in well-maintained vivariums, including an albino boa constrictor. It has a daily venom extraction demonstration and live snake show, where you just may be the lucky one picked to wear a snake over your shoulders. The Jim Thompson House, the former home of the American silk entrepreneur, is an interesting example of Thai architecture and has an impressive collection of Asian art. You can also learn about the man’s mysterious disappearance while he was out for a walk one day in 1967. Finally, a great night time activity is a Journey to the Enchanted Kingdom of Siam with the Siam Niramit theater performance at the Thai Cultural Center. This 3-act show portrays the historical, spiritual, and cultural beliefs of Thailand with over 100 performers in colorful, traditional costumes. If you have any energy left, arrange a night tour of Bangkok’s major attractions. Seeing the Grand Palace and nearby temples lit up is an exciting way to round off your evening and week in Bangkok.
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or for the more adventurous, offbeat dishes such as fried insects — so bring your appetite, and bring cash, as only the largest boutique stores and restaurants accept credit cards. Parts of the market (including a plant and flower market) are open during the week, but the full-on spectacle is only open on Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. The best and easiest way to reach the market is on public transport, especially the skytrain (BTS) or metro (MRT). Bangkok is notorious for its snail-paced traffic, but if you must travel by car, booking a taxi or ride service using the Grab app is your best bet. If you use a regular taxi, make sure the driver turns on the meter. Although tuk-tuks are attractive as a novelty ride, you may want to avoid them as they are generally more expensive and the lack of windows will cause you to choke on the exhaust from other vehicles as you sit snarled in traffic. If you can’t make it to Chatuchak Market, the MBK Center indoor shopping mall nearly replicates the scene (with the added bonus of air conditioning!). In the backpackers’ area along Khao San Road, you’ll find a vibrant hub of activity with flashy neon signs, live music, and shops selling everything from beach souvenirs to fried scorpions. For an escape from the city without leaving Bangkok, check out Lumphini Park, a well-tended open space in the city center with miles of trails, playgrounds, and a lake where you can rent boats. It’s the perfect spot for kids to expend some energy and parents to relax. Pick up some fried noodles and chicken at one of the vendor stalls before you enter the park to enjoy a shady picnic. While you eat, you may see slinky reptiles called water monitor lizards wading out of the lake to sunbathe. They won’t bother you unless you try to feed them.
SKILLSET
Making Holiday Travel Meaningful 40:
Making Your Dollars Count 41:
Tips for Santa to Find Your Family 42:
Traveling with Other Families
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Skillset
Making Your Dollars Count I
f you have traveled to developing countries, you have likely felt a desire or even an obligation to give to the less fortunate you encounter along the way. Knowing where and how to make a meaningful difference can often feel overwhelming. Everywhere Magazine has a few ideas for how travelers can make a meaningful difference abroad. Support Local Businesses By far, the easiest way to support the communities you visit is by patronizing small, local businesses. That means staying at smaller guest houses and eating at local, family-run restaurants so you can be sure the dollars you spend are directly supporting the people and communities you visit. That being said, smaller businesses are often not listed in guidebooks and do not have the resources to create large websites. In order to find these gems, you’ll need to feel comfortable asking the locals where they eat or for recommendations on where to stay. By asking for recommendations, you’re not only likely to get a more authentic dining experience but also are less likely to suffer from tummy issues, as locals would not generally return to places where the food is not safe. Travelers can also “window shop” by seeing which restaurants appear to be filled with local patrons. While staying or eating somewhere without making reservations ahead of time may feel unsettling to some, discovering new places while traveling can add to the adventure and lead to unexpected connections with the locals. Microloans A small loan equivalent to US$20–30 may seem to most travelers like a small amount of money for a business loan, but it can change the life and earning potential of people in developing countries around the world. There are several companies that fund microloans; one of the most well-known is Kiva.org. Donating to a company that offers microloans is truly a unique opportunity to stretch a little bit of money a long
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Genny Arredondo way. Entrepreneurs exist even in the poorest of countries, but many people in developing countries don’t keep their money in banks and therefore don’t have access to traditional methods of borrowing money. Kiva operates by crowdfunding capital for microloans that are issued to farmers, artists, tradespeople, and other small businessmen and women that may need to expand or just get off the ground. And as a bonus, your money is not a donation; it is a loan and gets paid back to you, often with interest. So, presumably, if you give $25 to Kiva to help expand a pottery business in Africa, once that money is repaid, you could plug it back into the system to help a Guatemalan farmer buy corn, and so on. That turns your single donation into an infinite number of opportunities to help. Volunteer At first glance, volunteering is the easiest way to help because it requires no money, just your time, and you can often determine the length of time you want to give. However, to truly be impactful with your volunteer hours, it pays to do some research on the companies with which you are considering volunteering. Some organizations may not know best the needs of the communities they are helping. You may end up digging latrines for a community that really needs access to clean drinking water. Often, the organizations within the country where you will be volunteering (particularly those with local people in leadership positions!) are a good place to start rather than a company based in your home country but operating abroad. Find a cause about which you are passionate and seek out organizations in-country that thoughtfully work towards those goals. Socially Responsible/Active Businesses These are businesses that make it their mission to use the money you spend at their establishments for the betterment of their communities. These businesses may look no different than other hotels or restaurants but behind the scenes may be donating their proceeds to a social mission or hiring employment-challenged locals. These businesses can be hard to spot without doing a little research in guidebooks or on the internet, but they are great because they essentially use the money you were already going to spend and turn it into so much more. One such business is the Black Sheep Inn on the Quilotoa Loop in Ecuador. It is far more expensive to stay there than many other places in the area (a whopping $30 per person), but their impact in the community is incredible: they only employ locals from their small community, their tours employ local guides and visit local attractions and businesses, and the Inn takes no commission off the top of guide fees. The owners of the Black Sheep Inn have even built a library and computer center and provide scholarships for local students to attend university. Now that’s worth supporting! These are just some ways to give back while traveling; there are so many more. By spending a little time researching your trip up front and using your money in ways that have the most impact, you can easily do a whole lot of good while still getting the most out of your trip.
Darcy Tuscano
Skillset
Traveling for the Holidays: Tips for Santa to Find Your Family
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inter holidays are booked for a wonderful week away with your family. Sure, it sounds fun and carefree, but what do you do about Santa? A recent survey from HomeAway, a vacation rental company, found that almost fifty percent of children who travel over the holidays are worried about Santa finding them. Fortunately, there are lots of tips and tricks for Jolly Old St. Nick to find your children, no matter where you spend the holidays. Send Packages in Advance Check with your hotel or apartment to see if they will hold boxes for you. If so, send a few gifts to your holiday destination (choose gift wrapping if it’s offered!) in order to have things ready when you arrive. Be sure to have one person sneak the gifts in after the children are asleep, so there are no spoiled surprises. Pack an empty suitcase or duffel bag to bring the gifts back home. Bring Gifts with You Packing gifts requires a lot of secrecy, as you have to make sure your children don’t peek in the luggage. If you’re flying, don’t gift wrap packages, as they might not make it through security. Transportation and Security Administration (TSA) opening packages for inspection would ruin all the surprises and mean you have to rewrap them at your destination. Depending on how old your children are, you can also give experiences over gifts (and they are much easier to pack).
Have Santa Deliver a Letter Using festive papers, write a creative letter from Santa explaining that he understands your family is traveling this year, but (not to worry) he knows exactly where to find you. Not super creative? Never fear, check out the websites for Portable North Pole™ (www.portablenorthpole.com) or Free Letters From Santa Claus (freelettersfromsantaclaus.com) to help with the wordsmithing. If you’re staying at a hotel, ask the front desk to “deliver” the letter to your room on Christmas Eve. Don’t forget to write The North Pole as your return address. Make Sure Gifts are Under the Tree Back Home When you’re departing the house for your travels and the kids are already loaded up in the car, conveniently “forget” something and dash back to put the gifts under the tree. Snap a photo of the gifts and show the kids on Christmas morning that Santa came to both places. The kids will be so surprised when they arrive back home. Continue Traditions On the Road By bringing some Christmas traditions with you on your travels, you’re bound to have a great holiday experience. Pack the stockings and a few holiday decorations or buy some new ones at your destination to decorate your hotel room. Then you can spend an evening watching Christmas movies together or doing other traditions you normally follow at home. Just don’t forget the milk and cookies for Santa!
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Fiona Croucher
Traveling with Other Families he dads have all four toddlers in the bath, the moms are planning an adventure for the next day, and the rest of the kids are rehearsing a play. Once all the little ones are asleep, it’s one couple’s turn for a date night or a single parent’s chance for a solo night out while everyone else stays back at the base. This is traveling with other families. When done right, it can take your travel or vacation to the next level. It’s certainly not for everyone, but there are many advantages to traveling with other families, from cost and convenience to social and behavioral. The kids will like having other little ones around — whether they’re cousins, school friends, or family friends, more playmates are almost always better. In addition, kids benefit greatly from playing in multiage groups. A 10- or 12-year-old can entertain a group of preschoolers, and a 7-year-old can teach a 5-year-old to ride a bike. Many 6-year olds love chatting with a baby. Faiza, 35, and Stef, 38, go camping or traveling once or twice a year with families from their kids’ elementary school. “Having a larger group of children changes the dynamic completely,” Faiza says. “My two girls will fight non-stop if we are on our own — but with more children, they can play different games, and the elder one is able to have some quiet time with a book without her sister nagging her to play.” Stef adds, “the kids will hang around me and ask for food constantly if we are alone. The last time we went camping in a group, I’d have to go looking for them to come and eat their dinner. They were having so much fun climbing trees and riding bikes [that] they forgot to get hungry.” Leah, 39, loves camping with other families. “I love sharing a bottle of wine and talking with other parents, and my kids definitely behave better when they are around a group of peers. Everyone has different skills to pitch in — some people are good at building fires, others at catching fish, and some just tell really funny campfire stories. Then there’s someone that takes amazing photos of the kids playing and someone that can braid all the girls’ hair. It always works out.” It’s not always utopian. It can be difficult to organize a multifamily trip, which can cause resentment before anyone even leaves home. Families considering traveling together often have different ideas of travel and vacations. Some parents want to sleep in so they bring the iPads to entertain any early risers, whereas other parents will have everyone up at 5 a.m. to see animals in the national parks. Some families like to try every local restaurant, and others prefer the old faithful of kids’ meals at home. You will need to choose families with similar values to yours or be prepared to compromise on your parenting style. Also, make sure the daily budget has been discussed. Is everyone cooking or eating out? Are day trips going to seek out free excursions in nature or head to pricey tourist destinations? Joey, 41, took her two children away for a week with another family but found it difficult and says she will choose more carefully next time. “I think you have to have similar family values
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and travel styles. For example, I encourage my kids to go and get wet and dirty, and it’s not much fun when the other parents are so anxious that their kids have to watch from the sidelines.” Ready to book a multi-family trip? There are many options for families who want to travel together. Hold a planning meeting or create a group chat and decide on a location and dates that suit everyone. A self-appointed planner and organizer can book everything and have others in the group reimburse them for the expenses. Alternatively, agree on the main details as a group and then ask each family to research and reserve transportation and accommodations individually. Travel styles • Call a campground and make arrangements so that all families are staying in the same area. Each family can stay in its own tents or RVs but can have meals together and create a safe area in the middle where the children can play. • Rent a vacation house that can accommodate two or three families and split the cost. Caution: this is only a good idea if you know the families well or you are all easygoing people. • Book separate rooms at an all-inclusive resort and meet at the pool, for dinner, or for day trips. • On a cruise ship, leave the kids in the kids club and spend the day with your friends or just meet up for dinner. • Head for the same place for a more urban city break and meet up for trips to the aquarium, theme parks, and museums. • Plan a road trip and caravan along the same route, meeting for the night at the same location. • Visit friends living in another city or country. Your friends will see their hometown in a new light while showing you around, and if it works out well, you can return the favor by asking them to come visit you. • Slow travel together long-term, renting for around three months at a time. Share the cost of housing and experience more downtime, or take care of each other’s kids while working online. This option is particularly great for single parents or families with only one child.
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Ryan Connolly
Bringing Families Together in Iceland: A Rainbow of Unique Moments
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t has been said that Iceland is dark, cold, and barren, an area devoid of life or color. But this couldn't be further from the truth, regardless of whether it's spring, summer, autumn, or winter. Shimmering green and purple northern lights, crystal clear blue ice caves, crusty white glaciers, black sand beaches, coats of yellow sulfur around erupting geysers, and iron-rich red and orange rocks dotted across active volcanoes, Iceland's tundra can cover all the colors of the rainbow. Even the wildlife plays its part in creating a rainbow of color, as the largest Atlantic puffin colony calls Iceland its home in the summer months. These little birds are often referred to as the “clowns of the sea” with their bright orange bills and clumsy demeanor. They complement the more stark blacks and dark blues of the local ravens and the earthy browns, greys, and whites of the Icelandic horses. Across the capital of Reykjavik, houses are painted in multiple colors, making the city feel more like a big fishing village instead of the prosperous capital city that celebrates diversity, arts,
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music, and literature as much as its nature and traditions. A Family Journey to Remember This colorful diversity of landscape, wildlife, and city sights makes it the perfect place to experience a completely different kind of vacation, which (as an Icelandic guide) is exactly what I aim to help families do. One of my most memorable journeys involved a family of four kids between 6 and 12 years of age with two parents in tow. It was a five-day excursion last summer punctuated by education, adventure, nature, culture, and 500 sing-alongs of the famous Baby Shark song (now permanently stuck in my head). During our adventure, we traveled all the way from the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the far west, across the entire south coast, and into the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Vatnajökull in the southeast. We visited glaciers, basked in the midnight sun (way past the kids’ bedtime), and walked along black sand beaches, the rainbow of colors a framework for our journey through the country.
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Day 2 - The South Coast We darted out of the city in the early morning light to get to Seljalandsfoss, where the kids had a great time sneaking behind the 200 foot (60 m) waterfall. Drinking water from a river was something the kids were not used to at home. I have to admit to laughing when the youngest in the family stood up after drinking from the stream with water dripping from his face... and mud covering him from head to toe. Luckily, his mum and dad found it funny, too. We continued along the south, visiting other waterfalls and taking time to spot the orange-billed puffins swooping down from the cliff edges. The older kids enjoyed
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Day 1 - The Golden Circle Day 1 is always a little nerve-racking when I am first introduced to a family with whom I’ll be touring the country. First impressions are the most important, but I had nothing to worry about. This family, like many others, was as excited to meet me as I was them. I greeted each of the kids individually with a smile and a high five as I learned their names and let them choose their seats in the minibus. The parents quickly alerted me that their children were obsessed with volcanoes and to expect 3,000 questions per day. My smile got even bigger — volcanoes are my passion, and we would certainly see plenty on the trip. Our first day was all about ticking off the must-see sights of the Golden Circle and focusing on some of the related educational topics the parents wanted me to cover. The Golden Circle is an area of high geothermal and volcanic activity nestled in and around a tectonic rift zone. It is one of the most popular places to visit because the mechanism of tectonic plates pulling apart creates a landscape in constant flux with volcanoes, geysers, crashing waterfalls, melting glaciers, and huge cracks in the ground. The kids spent the morning playing in the natural hot pool at the Secret Lagoon and then met the Icelandic horses during lunch at Friðheimar, a tomato greenhouse. The food is quite exceptional, but it's often the hundreds of friendly yellow and black bumblebees that pollinate the 21-foot-high (6.4 meter) tomato plants that steal the show for the younger ones. In the afternoon, the kids ran along the edge of Gullfoss, known as the Golden Waterfall, as it thundered down into a 100-foot (30 m) crack, then got drenched from being slightly too close to the ever-erupting geyser, Geysir. By late afternoon, it was a welcome break for the parents when we finally sat down together in the original spot of the Althing Parliament, where I delved into the importance of democracy, inclusion, and diversity with the kids. We drove back to Reykjavik with the glowing sun still high in the sky to allow the family time to take in the city atmosphere. Day 1 was a success!
by its color: if it's still a vibrant blue, it's fresh — but if it has climbing on the angular basalt columns while the rest delighted been around for a while, then it has gained its summer crust, in my ability (or inability) to build volcano sandcastles in the dark which is a snowy white color. The phrase “blue is new” was the black sand of the Reynisfjara black sand beach. The strong green catchphrase for the day. On the adjacent shore, an abundance of moss that covers the Eldhraun lava flow from an eruption 200 washed-up glacial ice chunks was easily accessible for the kids years ago was magnificent to see as well. Explaining that the soft, to triumphantly lift above their heads for pictures or to sit on till bouncy moss had the strength to eat through volcanic rock to parts of their body went numb. create usable soil seemed to baffle the adults as much as the kids. The moments of play were briefly By the time we reached our guesthouse interrupted when one of the kids spotted in the southeast of the island, the kids We visited glaciers, basked a sleepy seal sunbathing on the opposite had just enough energy before bed to go in the midnight sun (way beach. It doesn't take much for the sun to and say hello to the newly-born lambs heat up the jet black sand, a favorite spot scattered around the farm. past the kids’ bedtime), and for seals to nap. It took all my skills as a walked along black sand guide to contain their excitement so as to Day 3 - Vatnajökull National Park beaches, the rainbow of not scare the beautiful creature away by In July 2019, Vatnajökull National getting too close. Explaining that making Park was added to the UNESCO World colors a framework for our noise (but not waving) can pique a seal’s Heritage List for its interaction between journey through the country. curiosity and encourage it to come closer glaciers, volcanoes, and the Atlantic ocean. was all the more fun when I revealed to the We started the day at the world-famous kids that barking like a dog was the most effective way to entice Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. The family walked peacefully the seal. (This is true!) Mum and Dad laughed at their four kids together as they watched building-sized icebergs pass by barking at the top of their lungs… for the first five minutes at least them on their route towards the sea. It’s easy to tell an iceberg (the following 45 minutes, maybe less so.) that has recently calved (broken off ) from the distant glacier Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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In the afternoon, we took a hike right to the front of the glacier. The kids got to touch the 700-year-old ice, and it was here that we had a late lunch break and I soberly explained how climate change had melted this particular glacier more in the past 15 years than in the previous 150 years. This moment of sadness was somewhat alleviated when I also explained that the fresh land that was previously under the ice was now fertile and covered with rich vegetation that fed local animals. And, it gave us a chance to pick as many berries as we could fit in our mouths.
releasing Willy back into the wild guide him to jump over a jetty wall to avoid capture and return to freedom.
Day 5 - Midnight Sun in Snæfellsnes We spent our final day on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. We had arrived the previous night to allow time to stroll around the lava fields at the base of the Snæfellsjökull volcano in the low light of the midnight sun. On the final morning, we ventured out of the area towards the Djúpalónssandur beach, which hosts a shipwreck and multicolored rocks creeping out into the sea. This was the perfect Day 4 - The Volcanic Westman Islands playground for the whole family; Mum and Dad relaxed together, The next day, after a short ferry ride to the collection of skipping stones while I taught the kids climbing techniques islands off the coast, we made our way to the top of a real live on the low rocks with soft sand underneath. As the final day volcano. Walking to the top of the 600-foot-high (over 182 m) unfolded, we drove around the towering volcano, walked along volcano, Eldfell, was an easy hike even for the little ones, given broken sea cliffs, snuck behind another its sloping sides. The parents had a hidden waterfall, and enjoyed freshlymoment of solitude to take in the view I captivated the kids’ attention caught fish at a local fishing village. I themselves while I played “find the hot captivated the kids’ attention with stories spot” with the kids: we were searching with stories of trolls, history of trolls, history lessons of the area, and for parts of the volcanic crater that still lessons of the area, and fun fun games that included trying to count had heat blasting out of the cracks from how many waterfalls and volcanoes we the 1973 eruption. To see the sheer glee games that including trying to had seen over the past few days. (They in the youngest one’s face after finding count how many waterfalls and gave up once they reached 100 or so.) a hot hole big enough to sit down in is a We arrived back in Reykjavik in memory I will cherish for a long time. volcanoes we had seen over the early evening, happy and hungry. The second half of the day was more Saying goodbye to the family on this trip about wildlife than the volcanoes. The the past few days. was more emotional than I expected. Westman Islands are also home to the I had truly bonded with the kids and world's largest puffin colony. We took the had gained the trust of the parents. I still have the pictures of time to walk along the south side of the island, getting as close as volcanoes that the kids drew for me as a surprise, and to this day, was safe to see the little birds in their pairs protecting the newlyI still receive emails from the parents updating me on their kids' hatched pufflings. We timed it perfectly that day so that just as newfound passion for exploding volcanoes, climate change, and we sat down at the top of the sea cliffs, a pod of six killer whales nature. was passing by. I was gobsmacked that the kids had never heard This is Iceland. of Free Willy, a favorite childhood movie of mine — so of course, I re-created the entire end scene for them in which the children Packing for Icelandic Winter The average temperature for an Icelandic winter is actually warmer than in New York. This is due to the warming effects of the Gulf Stream, which flows north from the Gulf of Mexico all year round and travels the entire coast of Iceland. In fact, the average temperature in January is slightly above freezing at around 34°F (0.3°C). Although this is unquestionably cold, it doesn't necessarily mean arctic bodysuits are needed every day. For each day of calm, warm, sunny weather, there's a freezing arctic wind that can chill to the bone. Lots of layers (including base layers like thermals) rather than one big puffy jacket are a good idea. Some guests wear as many as six layers on colder days, but three or four layers are usually enough for active days as long as they stay dry. Everything underneath can be added or removed as temperatures fluctuate. Waterproof pants, jacket, and hiking boots are essential. A warm hat that covers the ears and waterproof gloves also help keep happiness levels high. In short, a non-cotton base layer such as merino wool or synthetic fabric with a few warm layers under a fully waterproof outer layer should do the trick.
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Genny Arredondo
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hen I envisioned our “once in a lifetime” around-theon us either. While I enjoy Thai food, it didn’t quite compare at world adventure, I naively thought my only sentiment Christmas time to my mother’s pumpkin pie, stuffed turkey, or would be exuberance in having the opportunity to explore the onions in cream sauce. Our Pad Thai noodles left me yearning world. The thought never occurred to me that I’d be homesick for the flavors of home. and want to come home. After all, I was the kind of person who I distinctly remember lying on our Bangkok hotel room bed was either currently traveling or dreaming of my next trip. But on Christmas morning, watching the ceiling fan spin, dreaming then it happened to our family… and it hit us like a ton of bricks. about our holiday traditions at home, and wondering why the We got homesick! fan wasn’t cooling me down as quickly as I had hoped. We We were finishing our second week in India. While those were a long way from the cool winters and occasionally snowy two weeks were filled with mouth-watering food and the Christmases of home. It didn’t feel like Christmas on the outside extraordinarily beautiful sights of things like the Taj Mahal and or the inside. As someone who cherishes Christmas memories, I the serene village of Pushkar, they were quite literally the most couldn’t help but feel disappointed. overwhelming two weeks of our lives. There is an old travel After a good long while of watching the whirling blades of adage: “you either love India, or you hate it.” We hated it. At least, the fan, I let my thoughts drift and began to consider the notion we thought we did; in retrospect, we were just ill-prepared for that perhaps my current expectations were askew. How could what India had to offer us. I expect a largely non-Christian nation to celebrate a Christian For those who haven’t been, India is full of extremes, both holiday the same way we do in the United States? That was just good and, well, challenging. India is full of rich, culinary flavors not going to happen. Besides, what is the fun of traveling the and bright, mesmerizing colors. However, it’s also the second world, only to have the same experiences found at home? After most populated country behind China — the sheer amount of all, we had spent Thanksgiving in Guatemala the year before people we encountered in India was mind-blowing, literally without our family and had a lovely dinner amongst the locals. people everywhere — and the World Our very first Christmas away, a few Bank estimates that one-quarter of of our family members had met us in By New Year’s Eve, we India’s population live at or below the Costa Rica for a Christmas that was far poverty line. What we saw was hard to from ordinary, yet we had a wonderful had completely let go of process; it was more apparent and felt time despite (or perhaps because of) its far more intense than any of the other 23 differences. The unexpected rigors of expectations and had begun countries on our trip. Our short time in India, compounded by the fact we would to realize the beauty of India left us in sensory overload. be celebrating Christmas for the first Experiencing so many highs and time without any family or friends with celebrating holidays away lows all at once is exhausting, even for us, hit us harder than we anticipated. seasoned travelers. Everyone deals Our compasses were out of whack. from home. with these emotional rollercoasters in We took some time to chat and different ways. If we were at home, we readjust our attitudes to our current would likely have sought solace with friends and family or just situation. It was absurd to expect our enjoyment of the holiday taken some time to reflect and be alone. But we weren’t at home; to come to us. We needed to make this Christmas our own not we were in the thick of it, feeling emotionally inadequate to only by seeking out things that filled some of the voids left by deal with what was becoming our normal day-to-day exposure. our holiday traditions but also by adding in features from the We stopped and came to the determination that we needed new culture around us. We decided to head out into the city to to reassess. We made the decision to leave India for the next find out what Bangkok had to offer. To our surprise, we found country on our list: Thailand. a Santa (of sorts) in the form of a giant hammerhead shark We arrived in Bangkok a few days before Christmas, mascot wearing a Santa hat and suit. Snow was nearby inside exhausted, exasperated, and more than ready for a few familiar an oversized snow globe that guests were invited to enter and comforts of home. Being Christmas time, I couldn’t help but become the figurine inside. We celebrated Christmas dinner wonder what my parents and siblings were doing or what they with a delicious Pad Thai prepared right in front of us on the were eating during one of our most beloved holidays. Our street corner, complete with fresh spring rolls and a pint of families had rarely spent Christmas apart, and the fact that refreshingly cold Singha beer. Not surprisingly, our typical pie mine was traveling abroad and not “home” for the holidays was for dessert was unavailable, so we opted for the new experience not favored by those who were back home. And it wasn’t lost of devouring giant soy-flavored grasshoppers, which were far
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tastier than we had anticipated. By New Year's Eve, we had completely let go of expectations and had begun to realize the beauty of celebrating holidays away from home. That New Year’s Eve in Bangkok remains amongst the most memorable we’ve had to date. In order to experience New Year’s “the Thai way,” we asked our guesthouse receptionist where the locals go to celebrate. After being reassured that it would be appropriate for us to join in the celebration, we headed out and soon found ourselves downtown, surrounded by thousands of local Thais welcoming in the New Year. Our limited Thai language skills and unfamiliarity with local customs made us more than happy to take cues from our newfound friends. In doing so, we found ourselves participating in an unusual bunny dance that we inferred resulted from
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excitement over the upcoming year of the rabbit. As we rang in the New Year and watched the accompanying fireworks overhead, there was no other place that I wanted to be more at that moment. We had overcome our homesickness by grabbing our holidays by the tinsel and experiencing a Christmas and New Year’s Eve like no other, with a little Thai flair. Looking back on our travels (this time, in particular), I realize that our favorite and most treasured experiences have been when we opened ourselves to new experiences and people. They had not been the result of calculated, planned events like holiday traditions, but rather the unexpected and beautiful moments that happen when we let go. Sure, traditions are nice, but we never would have known what we were missing if we hadn’t opened ourselves to new ones.
Supplement
Lindsey Fenimore
Keeping Traditions Alive While Living or Traveling Abroad W
hen I was a child, my siblings and I were allowed to open one present on Christmas Eve. I always crossed my fingers that it would be a toy and not something boring like a headband or wallet. My great-grandmother, an artist, had given us each a Christmas mug she had handpainted when we were born. We would fill the mugs with hot chocolate or hot apple cider and pile on the couch with my dad while he read “Twas The Night Before Christmas” before hustling off to bed and trying to stay awake, in vain, to listen for Santa. The next morning, we would line up outside the living room in order of age — youngest to oldest — before scurrying in to see whether Santa had visited and excitedly ripping into the abundance under the tree.
Religious Traditions
Honoring traditions from back home becomes even more complex when those traditions are religious practices not common abroad. In 2015, Mohammed “Ben” Benabderrazak moved with his wife and three children from Framingham, Massachusetts, to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. Raised Muslim in Morocco, Ben immigrated to the United States in 1984 and met and married a non-Muslim American woman. In Massachusetts, he found community support and camaraderie by attending prayer services at the local mosque. His sisters also lived nearby, and they all got together to cook traditional Moroccan dishes for holidays and other celebrations. San Miguel de Allende, on the other hand, doesn’t have a mosque, and after four years, Ben has yet to meet any other practicing Muslims. However, that hasn’t stopped him from honoring the traditions of his religion and culture for himself and his children. He prays at home, is involved in local charities, and observes Ramadan (a time for fasting, prayer, and reflection). While it’s more difficult to observe Ramadan without others participating, Ben says the experience is empowering. He fasts during the day — this includes no food or water — and has a small, simple meal for iftar (a fast-breaking meal) at sunset.
Traditions create memories and bonds for families and friends. They are the foundation for family storytelling and the cornerstone of religious observance. For anyone who travels regularly or lives abroad, recreating family, cultural, or religious traditions in a foreign country can be a challenge. Finding ingredients for traditional meals or connecting with other people to share in a holiday can make celebrations tedious. Whether it’s seeking out the right spice for a cookie recipe or finding support during Ramadan, there are ways to celebrate home culture holidays in a foreign country while also embracing new traditions.
At the end of Ramadan, there is a celebratory feast called Eid al-Fitr when Ben prepares a large spread of traditional Moroccan dishes and invites his friends to participate. He shares his feast with his diverse group of non-Muslim friends; everyone enjoys the food and participating in his religious and cultural traditions.
“Moroccans love to share. Everything is best enjoyed with others; that’s the Moroccan way. The hardest part about being the only Muslim is not getting to share — pray at the mosque or eat all this wonderful food together. So I invite my friends. I love cooking for other people and sharing my culture,” Ben adds.
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Fun and Festive
Sometimes the focus needs to be less about honoring specific traditions from home and more about creating fun family memories and great stories. The Sherman family (Allison and Dan and their two children) has been traveling full time since 2014. Halloween was the holiday their children loved most, and they discovered that a distinctly American Halloween was hard to come by in other countries. After disappointing attempts to recreate the holiday in Panama, Spain, and Thailand over the years, they tried a different approach in Colombia: they rented a party room, bought decorations, hired a DJ and a lady with a hot dog stand, made costumes, and threw a party to end all Halloween parties. It certainly wasn’t a typical Halloween — but it was fun, and their Halloween misadventures have become family lore. And who knows: hiring a lady with a hot dog stand could be their new family tradition. Many American expats and travelers gather on Thanksgiving for a feast. With unique ingredients and a random assembly of people with nowhere else to go, Thanksgiving abroad can be a great lesson in gratitude, compassion, and inclusion. When a turkey can’t be found, chicken is a great substitute, or even fish. The Fenimore family’s Thanksgiving in Mexico last year included guacamole and chips as an appetizer followed by roast duck, German
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cabbage, and Chinese fried rice. The stories around the table, from people with all different backgrounds, are the highlight of a Thanksgiving abroad. As Anthony Bourdain put it, “meals make the society, hold the fabric together in lots of ways that are charming and interesting and intoxicating. The perfect meal, or the best meals, occur in a context that frequently has very little to do with the food itself.”
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New Traditions
One of the best parts about living or traveling abroad is experiencing new cultures and exposing ourselves and our children to the larger world. The Sherman family found themselves participating in a unique cultural experience when they were in Chiang Mai, Thailand, for Loi Krathong, a celebration in honor of the Hindu Goddess of Water to thank her for providing life to the fields and forests. They made special baskets out of banana leaves and launched them into the river. Learning to respect the traditions of another culture, whether you ‘believe’ or not, can be illuminating for adults and children alike. In San Miguel de Allende, the Fenimores’ adopted city, there are regular parades and fireworks for patron saints. Music, indigenous dances, mojigangas (giant puppets), and fireworks are a hallmark of these celebrations. They sometimes stumble on parades they didn’t expect and often
The bases of most traditions and celebrations are values such as sharing, community, charity, togetherness, and compassion. Those values can be taught in many ways — no special ingredients required. Embracing new experiences, whether it’s a parade honoring an unfamiliar patron saint or goddess or a feast celebrating a new holiday, is a great way to introduce one of the most important values of all — adaptability.
don’t understand the meaning behind them. Thankfully, Mexicans are welcoming and generally love showing others their traditions, so the Fenimores often feel included.
No cranberries to make cranberry sauce? Make a relish with pomegranates and cherries. No Easter baskets to be found? Recycle old cereal boxes and decorate them. (That has to be on Pinterest somewhere!) There are many ingenious ways to recreate your traditions abroad. Children and parents alike will always remember holidays and celebrations patched together with resourcefulness and spent with family, friends, and the occasional visitor. Those stories never get old. Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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Darcy Tuscano
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he puts her precious baby on a rickety boat. Through the inky darkness, she makes it through the frigid waters to freedom on the other side. And then, because of bureaucracy and the powers that be — who never wanted her there in the first place — she waits so long in the freezing cold that her tiny baby — who made it across the sea in a rubber dinghy — dies of exposure while the icy wind freezes her tears.
Standing on the shore of the small Greek island, scanning the water for any sign of life, I listened for voices in the darkness as the waves crashed on the rocks. I remembered the stories of the strong women who arrived here with their children, struggling to reach dry land, safety, and a better life. I didn’t know it would be this hard. In November 2015, I read about a group of American moms who traveled to Greece to hand out baby carriers to Syrian refugees. Intrigued, I thought, “we can do that.” I came up with a grand plan: instead of celebrating with gifts, I, my wife, and our kids would spend the holidays that year giving our time volunteering in the largest refugee camp on Lesvos, Greece. While I’ve always tried to remind my children that it’s better to give than receive, my 5-year-old twin boys would live out the true spirit of Christmas as they gave to those most in need. I quickly brainstormed a plan, started a matching-donation fundraiser, and bought tickets to Athens. Within a couple of weeks, I had raised over $1,000 and made numerous connections through online Facebook grassroots groups. We were on our way. My goal was to join with other American organizations as
they fitted donated baby carriers to mainly Syrian, Afghan, and Iraqi men and women and brought them a bit of comfort and joy on their long journey to a better life. Where appropriate, my twins would hand out "kid joy" bags to refugee children, giving them a chance to interact directly with other kids. Once on the ground in Greece, I would use the donations we raised to buy the necessary items to fill backpacks: small toys, crayons, a drawing pad, stickers, balloons, snack bars, fresh fruit, water, a juice box, socks, mittens, and a hat. The weather in Greece was cold, the journey north through the Balkans would be absolutely freezing, and these families had left everything behind and would be arriving cold, hungry, and frightened. DAY 1 My wife kept the kids entertained today while I assessed the situation on the ground. Up before sunrise, I met up with volunteers at the Port of Athens and helped Iraqi refugees coming off the ferry from Lesvos. One refugee family had a toddler, heavy bags, and no baby carrier. I fitted the father with an Ergo and he was so happy, especially when I told him to lift his hands and he could see that his little boy was still safe and secure. My heart burst with happiness for him as his face lit up with joy at the realization that he could use his hands now. His wife was there as well, but many men were carrying the kids. It was a happy event amongst the sea of sadness. Tents litter every sidewalk and public park space and are all along the port. People are living like animals while they wait to keep moving and cross the border. For how long? For what? To go where? No one seems to know, as it depends on nationality (war-torn Syrians and Iraqis have priority; the Moroccans and Nepalis who have joined the moving human chain do not). Everyone’s goal is to leave Greece immediately and keep moving north. It's a hot mess here. Greece is in no position to handle this. My head is swimming and my heart is heavy. DAY 2 I teamed up with more Greek volunteers and ended up on a bus full of Syrian refugees who were trying to find the best price for a ticket to Macedonia: sisters, their elderly grandmother, a brother, five small children, a pregnant woman, and one brave father holding it all together with the weight of the world before him. He kept asking me, "are you the Red Cross? Are you the United Nations?" How do I say, "there is
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It was snowing as we flew out of Athens and no one from those big aid groups to help you"? I am no arrived on Lesvos, where it's rainy and even colder. one. I am a drop in the ocean of a vast sea. I hate cold rain more than anything. I'm reaching They made it to Greece. They are trying to get to deep and pulling all the power and love inside me so I Sweden. They have such a long journey ahead. They can give it out to people who need it far more than me. do it for the children. Working together, we got this I might be cold and wet, but I have a roof over my family of 10 safely on the right bus and prevented head, am wearing warm, dry clothes, and my children them from overpaying the human traffickers. I are safe. That's all. That's everything. realized that everyone is out to scam everyone else as I witnessed groups of Gypsy families begging from the refugees. DAY 4 It's all so desperate, but at least When the boats land on Lesvos, we provided many families with all refugees are transported to There’s simply not some kindness and love. camps where they must stand in When I told the twins we would enough room in the line for registration to leave the leave Athens the next day, a look island and continue their journey. camps, not enough of extreme concern came over their Currently, processing is taking faces and one of my sons said, "but around 5 days. There are so many tents, blankets, socks, Mommy, we haven't helped enough refugees sleeping outside tonight. shoes, coats. refugees." It’s true. There’s Every day, we hear of many cases basically nothing appropriate they of hypothermia. There's simply Not enough anything. can do to help at the port. not enough room in the camps, Our next stop was Lesvos, the not enough tents, blankets, socks, epicenter of the refugee crisis. shoes, coats. Not enough anything. This Greek island is only 5 km (3 mi) across from the People have to stand in the cold and wait, day after shore of Turkey, where the sea of desperate humans day. If they leave the line, they lose their place. have made their way overland from every corner of the We visited some warehouses where donations from earth. It is the shortest crossing and indeed should be abroad have been pouring in and found that it’s the quite easy. Our family will buy tickets and safely cross perfect place for children to help out. The twins were in an uncrowded, adequately-fueled ferry. This is not given the task of sorting clothing items and were quite possible for the refugees; they can see the coast of happy being put to use. Even warehouse work, while Greece, but it’s off limits. not glamorous, very much saves lives. With well-sorted We had hoped no one would try to make the passage clothing and supplies, volunteers can find things quickly across that day, as it has been snowing and is just too and efficiently. All day we hand out clothes, hats, cold to risk being wet as well. Fortunately, the seas gloves, and boots to volunteers helping as the boats were surprisingly calm. Regardless, these refugees arrive. On the beach in the dead of night, having the have paid $1,000 for a seat in an overcrowded rubber right supplies is crucial to preventing hypothermia. dinghy that may or may not (probably not) have adequate fuel, and a man has a gun to their heads — they get in the boat. There are no refunds. There are no second chances. The choice in life is no longer theirs. Nine boats have already arrived, carrying over 150 people. We will likely see at least 1,000 more arrive today alone. DAY 3 A winter storm is blowing in. Already today, three boats sank on their way to Lesvos. That's at least 150 lives lost in the space of hours. Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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DAY 5 Today was heavy. A 7-month-old baby's life was lost in the Syrian camp. There are no heated sleeping quarters, and the cause of death was most likely overexposure. The news hung over me as we visited a small and very special camp for families who are not quite ready to move on. All of these families have experienced extreme trauma with the crossing — most have lost a child due to drowning — and they will need more recovery time before continuing their journey out of Greece. The camp is creating a special children’s room for art and play. We brought most of our “kid joy” backpacks here and spent the day with all of the kids coloring and painting. It was a great experience for my boys to hand out the backpacks and see what joy the small toys packed inside bring to the children. As we leave, two older women approached me with pictures their children have drawn for us. I felt guilty in my safe car driving back to my warm apartment and silently cried alone in the bathroom. DAY 6 Our family was asked to take part in a project with Medecins Sans Frontiers (Doctors Without Borders) and Green Peace highlighting the growing mountain of life jackets here on Lesvos. Over 90 percent of the life jackets sold by
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traffickers in Turkey are fakes filled with products that don’t float when wet but rather absorb the water and weigh a person down. As we gather the piles of discarded life jackets and form a giant peace sign, I think of all the human beings that trusted these safety devices as they strapped one on and climbed aboard an overcrowded boat hoping for a better life. I try not to think of all the life jackets at the bottom of the sea. DAY 7 While my wife and kids slept in the wee morning hours, I joined a crew of Greek and foreign volunteers to serve hot breakfast to those waiting to board the ferry to Athens. Once we finished there, we drove to the main refugee camp, Moria, and did it all over again. We served everyone: Syrians, Iraqis, Afghanis, Morrocans, Tibetans, Sri Lankans, Pakistanis, Malians, Iranians. They are all here, and they are so very polite and thankful for a hot meal as they wait in the cold. I also got the scoop on the overnight news. Boats. Lots of them last night, through the night and this morning. After my breakfast shift, I drove towards my family and pulled over to take a photo of the piles of life jackets. Out of nowhere, cars started pulling up quickly all around me as I realized, gazing toward the sea, that another boat was coming. And just like that, I’m in it. I had never done a boat rescue before and wasn’t expecting to be thrust into the action this morning. The babies and small children were passed off first as they are the most vulnerable. We needed to take off life jackets and wet clothes but needed to have dry clothes in order to do this. We needed foil blankets to wrap around small shivering bodies. Where were the blankets? Where were some dry socks? Where could the mother change? I needed a baby hat. The baby was crying so much. The little girl couldn’t stop shivering. I held her. She is 8, maybe 9. I held her fiercely and wrapped my body around her to warm her. I brought her whole family to the van of a kind Greek lifeguard, turned up the heat, and didn’t leave her until she had changed into dry clothes and her family was ready for the bus to the camp. She is lucky. She has a family. There are some children arriving all alone. Four boats in one hour. It was chaos every time, but it got done. It all happened so very quickly. Then I had to stop. I could see another boat coming, but I had to go be a mother. I had to turn this off and turn "mommy" back on. I have to be present for my kids and have fun with them, even
after watching the empty United Nations Human Rights Council bus pass by, knowing it’s heading to the beach to pick up more refugees. 29 boats today. 1,450 people today. And I just got word that another boat landed at 11 p.m. and there were no volunteers onshore. No one to help them. Washed ashore, scared, freezing, wet people huddled in the black of night. I can hardly imagine. DAY 8 During our afternoons working in the warehouse, I’ve been putting aside all of the baby carriers I can find. When we are driving anywhere, I pull over and run after women holding babies. There is nothing like the look of a mommy's face as you lighten the load in her arms. My kids stand shyly by my side, offering the “kid joy” backpacks. Despite the language barrier, the mothers and I form a connection through our shared motherhood. I might not directly be saving lives, but I am making someone's life easier — one human at a time. DAY 9 This afternoon I "accidentally" became a mobile clothing distribution point. Driving near the port, I spied a Syrian woman with a baby and stopped to fit her with a baby carrier. The entire family had just come in last night. Everything they had was ruined in the rain. Shoes — oh, how they need shoes. I made a list of everything they needed and zoomed back to the warehouse where my wife and kids quickly helped gather supplies.
Upon returning, we found lines forming to board the 5 p.m. ferry to Athens. I parked my car, opened the back, and started handing out items from the trunk. We found the Syrian family, gave them the supplies, and then started handing out everything we had to the rest of the people in line: kids backpacks, coats, gloves, hats. Everyone was so happy and thankful. There were women kissing us and tears and so many "thank yous." Every member of the family was so incredibly underdressed and has no comprehension of just how cold the journey north will be. I want to do this all night. I don’t know how to stop when so many people are in need, the warehouses have clothes, and we just need to get those supplies down to these ferries. I need to switch gears to mommy mode and my kids made me shake hands on "no work" tomorrow.
It's a delicate balance. I'm trying. Meanwhile, it's all racing through my head. Not enough time. So much to do. DAY 11 "Can you take the baby with you to Spain?" the family had asked in absolute seriousness. "You are American; maybe there is a way." If there were any possibility, the parents would have handed over their precious cargo in order for this child to have a better life. And if there were a way, I would take him and provide it. Due to government regulation of immigration and trafficking, there isn’t an easy way to bring children across borders. I hugged them goodbye and tried not to break down. Instead, I boarded a plane with my family and safely flew back to my home on the Mediterranean coast of Spain. For many months afterward, I could not look at the sea without my eyes scanning the horizon for boats.
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Help Refugees We go where the need is greatest, filling the gaps and acting where others won’t. Set up by friends who decided to raise funds and collect donations to support refugees in Calais, in four years we’ve grown from a social media campaign into a movement that’s helped 1m people.
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Paul Carlino
Choose Your Own Adventure
Celebrate Thai New Year in Chiang Mai T
here we were, stuck in a tuk-tuk like sitting ducks while hundreds of people carrying squirt guns, super soakers, and water cannons milled in and out of the traffic that snarled the streets of Chiang Mai, the largest city in northern Thailand. Suddenly, a young woman we had never seen before stuck her face into the passenger door, turned to look at me, my wife, and two children as we huddled on the bench, and smiled. “Sorry,” she said as she threw a bucket full of the coldest water I had ever felt across our bodies. “Happy New Year!” Situated in the lush mountain ranges of the Thai highlands, Chiang Mai is an increasingly popular tourist destination due to its importance as a cultural center, boasting over 300 Buddhist wat (temples), and the rising popularity of Songkran, the Thai New Year festival that includes a city-wide water fight. The city offers other attractions as well. The mountainous landscape and abundance of valleys that surround the city make it one of the most scenic locales in the country. It has an abundance of flora and fauna, and, at almost 1,000 feet in elevation, boasts a cool and refreshing climate in some months, providing a nice escape from the balmy lowland temperatures present in most other parts of Thailand. The best months to visit Chiang Mai are November to February when rain is uncommon and humidity is low. But the most popular time to see the city is during the Thai New Year in mid-April. To meet demand, Chiang Mai has seen an increase in budget, mid-level, and upscale accommodations, quality restaurants offering traditional foods as well as international fare, and availability of locally-produced textiles, handicrafts, and services. PARTICIPATE IN THE NATIONAL WATER FIGHT Called Songkran, from the Sanskrit word meaning “to move forward,” the new year is one of the most celebrated festivals in Thailand. It developed from humble beginnings — Thais would sprinkle water on each other to wash off bad karma from the Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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VISIT AN ELEPHANT SANCTUARY PARK After the wet and wild Songkran festival, my family packed our bathing suits, towels, and a change of clothes for a half-day visit to one of the many elephant sanctuaries in and around Chiang Mai. Elephants in Thailand have historically been considered a
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SEE A TEMPLE OR TWO OR THREE Nowhere in Chiang Mai is too far from one of the over 300 Buddhist temples that have been built since the 13th century in and around the city. Our hotel, just outside the old city walls, was directly across the street from the whitest, most intricately carved structure we had ever seen. It was a great landmark. While it’s unlikely that any family will have the time to visit all the temples in town, several of the temples are not to be missed. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is the most popular temple to visit. Clinging to the side of a forested mountain, the temple complex (called Doi Suthep, for short) is one of the most holy and beautiful. It features an 80-foot-tall, gold-plated monument,
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prior year and give positive blessings for the upcoming year — to become a full-on national water fight. Thousands of celebrants take to the streets with water guns of every shape and size. Pickup trucks move slowly through the city like tanks, their beds loaded with large pails full of ice water. Jubilant children of all ages are ready to empty buckets on everyone within range, pausing only for monks, the elderly, and babies or for a procession with a statue of Buddha on a decorated platform passes by on its pilgrimage to the nearest temple. After my family was doused in the back of the tuk-tuk, we retreated to our hotel to put on our swimsuits while the hotel’s staff filled a garbage can with water and gave the kids buckets to empty in the direction of passersby — which they did all afternoon ceaselessly. By the time the water throwing wound down at dark, they wanted to know, “why can’t we have a holiday like this at home?” Songkran will run from April 13–15 in 2020, based on the alignment of the sun and stars (the solar calendar, as opposed to the lunar calendar, is used to determine dates of holidays and festivals such as Easter and Chinese New Year). Because the festival is a city-wide event, no accommodation will be far from the action, although accommodations near the Pea Gate will be at the center of it all. Only a water gun is needed to get into the action, and water guns of any size and shape are for sale at almost any store in town. Also, some hotels will provide water and buckets. Either way, it’s a day families won’t forget.
sacred animal associated with royalty, wealth, and power; their significance is clear from the face of the Thai flag, which bears a white elephant at its center. Despite this, elephants continue to be captured from the wild and used for manual labor — they can haul large loads of timber from the forests that no number of men can handle — or as “trick” elephants, taken to the cities and trained to kick soccer balls or provide rides for tourists. Routinely, these elephants toil in stressful conditions and are mistreated and underfed. Years earlier, when we didn’t know any better, we rode an elephant at a circus for fun. We have since learned about their poor treatment and determined that riding these creatures should be avoided. Instead, we hoped to get up close with these giant mammals in a more complementary and fulfilling way. Elephant sanctuary parks serve the dual purpose of rescuing these giant mammals from unnatural and abusive conditions and providing a natural environment for them to heal and rehabilitate. Most sanctuary parks offer half- or full-day visits and will provide transportation to and from area hotels, a meal, a presentation about the elephant herd at that particular park, and time spent with the elephants, feeding them by hand and bathing them in the river. Multi-day excursions may include walks with the elephants through their natural jungle habitat, playing with the elephants in a “mud spa,” or assisting with projects in neighboring elephant camps and villages. On our trip, my kids couldn’t decide whether the biggest thrill was placing entire watermelons in the curl of an elephant’s trunk to be eaten whole or soaping them in the nearby river and scrubbing their rough skin with long brooms while they used their trunks to blow water over their backs (and sometimes over us). But they both agreed our visit was a far more rewarding and enriching experience than getting on an elephant’s back and walking in circles, and we all agreed that the funniest moment was when one of the elephants planted a wet kiss on Mom’s cheek.
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a white elephant statue, and innumerable pagodas, bells, and shrines. In addition to the impressive architecture and monuments, the views across the valley of Chiang Mai and the surrounding countryside are outstanding. And getting to the temple is half the fun — located nearly 10 miles from the city, families can turn their visit into an adventure by renting scooters in town for the journey up the winding mountain road. After arriving at the car park, a climb of 309 steps (we counted!) awaits up a staircase bordered by the longest naga (water serpent) in Thailand. Don’t be afraid, though — nagas are revered in Buddhism and bring good luck. It’s easy to arrange a tour of Doi Suthep that includes transportation from area hotels and stops at several other temples. The 700-year-old complex at Wat Umong is a good one to include for young children, as there is plenty to do besides wander through the temples and monuments. There is a pond on the grounds where kids can feed the enormous catfish and try to spot a turtle for good luck, ask advice from the talking trees (with responses given in both Thai and English), and tour
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ancient underground tunnels. If short on time, several impressive temples are within easy walking distance of each other in the old city. The massive pagoda of Wat Chedi Luang is a distinctive feature of the city skyline, and families can hoist an offering to the temple top using a special pulley system. Wat Phan Tao, located next door, is the last all-wood temple in Chiang Mai. The slanted roof of Wat Phra Singh is what most people picture when imagining a Thai temple, and this style of architecture (used in all temple construction) is most evident here. Another visually-striking temple in the old city is Wat Sri Suphan; painted in shiny silver paint, it reflects brightly by day, but my kids were more impressed by the neon light display that turns the temple multiple colors at night. When visiting any temple, remember that these are religious sites, so keep voices low. Be sure to wear clothing that covers shoulders and knees, and be prepared to remove shoes or sandals before entering any shrine or other holy building.
Whitney Preece Crofut
B
erlin is a dichotomy. A dark and prominent figure in World War II and the Cold War, it has emerged a progressive, artistic, and vibrant gem. Whether interested in history, art, architecture, or food, everyone will find something to love in Berlin.
What To See in Berlin
Berlin is packed with learning opportunities, most of which are in Mitte, the city’s core. Hire a local walking guide to bring the city to life. Start with the Brandenburg Gate, one of Berlin’s most recognized sites. The neoclassical monument completed in 1791 has been the site of major historical events and is now a peace symbol. Nearby, you’ll find the Reichstag building; opened in 1894, it was burned in 1933 during World War II
insider's guide
and reopened in 1999 to house Parliament. The modern dome added in the 1990s creates a spectacular architectural synthesis of old and new. When it comes to modern war history, Berlin was right in the heart of it. If traveling with younger school-age children, some of the war history may be too much for them — but for tweens, teens, and adults, walking the streets where it all happened is a fascinating and meaningful way to understand history. Visit the remains of the Berlin Wall still visible outside the town center, then return to Mitte to visit Checkpoint Charlie, the Museum of Terror, and the Jewish Memorial. And please, don’t be that tourist taking smiling selfies at somber memorial sites. Between sites, stretch your legs and enjoy some fresh air in Tiergarten. This district includes a park by the same name, Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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After you’ve had your fill of museums, begin a self-guided walking tour of Berlin street art. Several tour route maps and guides are available to download. Don’t miss the East Side Gallery, a section of the Wall that has been converted to a half mile of outdoor art. Visit the Hackescher Markt neighborhood; different from the grandeur of historic Mitte, this hip neighborhood has great street art, plenty of local shops, and a wide range of restaurants. Be sure to stop at the Anne Frank Center (a sister property to the Anne Frank Museum in Amsterdam) and the hidden alley of street art outside. If traveling during December, Berlin Christmas markets are a must! Kids are welcome at the markets and will enjoy the handmade Christmas ornaments and wares, musical performances, and the many sweet treats. Gendarmenmarkt is a favorite.
Zoo Berlin, and the Victory Column. You’ll also find green space perfect for a picnic in the park-like space facing the Berlin Cathedral. The cathedral itself is worth a visit, including the 290step climb to panoramic views. Art lovers will enjoy nearby Museum Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site consisting of five museums curating everything from ancient artifacts to 20th-century paintings. You can buy one ticket to view all five or, if time is limited, prioritize the recently renovated Pergamon Museum. It boasts three collections including 6,000 years of Near East culture and art, an 8th- to 19th-century collection of Islamic culture, and a section full of Roman archaeological finds. Around the corner, stop at Humboldt University and gaze down through the glass beneath your feet to the sunken, empty shelves of the book memorial, where 20,000 books were burned by the Nazis during the first world war.
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Further Afield
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Once you’ve explored Berlin’s highlights, consider extending your trip by traveling by train to Bavaria. Bavaria’s more traditional vibe nicely juxtaposes progressive Berlin. You’ll enjoy medieval architecture, beautiful rural villages, ancient castles, and (if traveling during the holidays) a plethora of Christmas markets — and sometimes snow! Begin your Bavarian experience in Munich. Stay at the Meridien, directly across the street from the train station and walking distance from Old Town. Munich Hauptbahnhof, Munich’s main train station, has plenty of inexpensive, good food, especially helpful when you’re hangry and want to grab and go. Explore the medieval city center and the green space surrounding Old Town. For a treat, splurge on Bayern Munich tickets to see a great team and the most civilized crowd in all of European soccer. After exploring Munich, hire a car or guide to day trip through Bavaria. Visit Neuschwanstein, King Ludwig’s famous castle, to take in the gorgeous architecture and scenery and learn about the interesting life of its crazed owner.
Bavaria’s alpine villages are definitely worth a visit as well. Check out Oberammergau, famous for the passion play enacted once a decade since the 1700s as thanks to God for saving the village’s inhabitants from the bubonic plague; the play’s next run is May to October 2020. The quaint town is also known for its buildings adorned in frescoes and wood-carved clocks and ornaments. For a thrill, check out the nearby 8,300-foot alpine coaster; kids 3 and older are welcome with an adult, while kids 8 and older can ride alone. Sites of religious significance (also enjoyable for the secular crowd) include Ettal Abbey and the Pilgrimage Church of Wies. Both are breathtaking churches and offer a chance for kids to learn about and compare the highly ornate Baroque and Rococo designs in art and architecture. Athletes and historians should check out the Olympic Stadium in Garmisch. Commissioned as part of the 1936 Olympics, it remains home to one of the largest ski jumps in the world. Get in the mood by downloading the family-friendly ski movie Eddie the Eagle for your plane ride over the Atlantic. Nuremberg, another family favorite, is a bit further. Take the train from Munich and hire a local guide for the day to provide a glimpse into the World War II history at the fairgrounds and Zeppelin Field. Then, move on to the quaint medieval center. If traveling during December, the Nuremberg Christmas market, known for its golden Christmas angel, is a must. Before you jump back on the train, stop at the traditional Restaurant Bratwurstglocklein and sample their finger-sized brats, a staple in Nuremberg for 700 years. Ask for “three in a bun” like the locals, and your taste buds will thank you. Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO EAT
GETTING AROUND
Because Berlin is so walkable and sites are centralized, staying in Mitte is worth the slightly added cost. If traveling in winter, a hotel with an indoor pool is great for kids after a day of sightseeing. To stay on points or accumulate them for future trips, try the Westin Grand or the Hilton. Both are in Mitte, walking distance to all the prominent sites, and just blocks to the Gendarmenmarkt. If you prefer not to get two rooms for a family of four or prefer to avoid chain hotels, book one of the affordable family suites at the NH Mitte. It’s a well-located, modern property with free bike rental. Or, consider the Adina Apartment Hotels for an apartment-style stay. Its locations in Mitte and the hipper Hackescher Markt neighborhood offer a great location and two-bedroom apartments with a full kitchen.
Berlin offers a wide range of food choices. There are plenty of coffee shops and casual restaurants where you can grab a quick bite. Christmas markets are a great option for affordable German fare like sausage and spaetzle (German egg noodle dumplings); for adults, a sampling of German beer and mulled wine is great, too. The square near Hackescher Höfe is a favorite place for locals and tourists alike for casual food and interesting scenery. You can also find a handful of restaurants as you walk from Museum Isle to the Hackescher Markt neighborhood. Want a little higher-end schnitzel or a place for a date night? Check out Borchardt. It’s a fancier locals spot, so reservations are a must. For a modern, speakeasy vibe, try the kitchen at Crackers. While the menu is a little more unusual, well-traveled kids with adventurous palates will enjoy it.
Berlin is a travel hub, so it’s easy to arrive and depart by plane internationally and is also easily accessed by train within Germany and Western Europe. The country’s infrastructure and transportation are highly efficient, so there’s rarely a need to plan for delays. Once you arrive, Berlin is a highly walkable city, with most key tourist sites in the city center of Mitte. To see the further points of the Berlin Wall, take the S-Bahn (the overground tram) or the U-Bahn (the underground tram). To travel from Berlin to Bavaria, the super high-speed direct train that travels from Berlin to Munich in under four hours is a great option. However, if you have time to spare, take the overnight 10hour train instead; your kids will love the experience of a sleeper cabin, and you’ll get transport and lodging for one low price.
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Cultural Consideration
A Journey Through The Heart Of Parma T
ucked away among the hills of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, 22 miles (48 km) southwest from the city of Parma, sits Osteria La Baccana. It’s a simple osteria (a small family-run restaurant serving home-cooked meals), but the views from its veranda rival that of a five-star restaurant. Our family of four sits at a table on the veranda, waiting for our order. The nearby hills glow green and gold in the early evening summer sun. A breeze blows through the seating area, cooling off the day’s heat. The owner of the osteria, an older woman with a nononsense attitude, instructs us on what we should order. “You need to try the gnocco frito,” she says. “They’re our specialty here.” We order a plate along with some locally-cured Prosciutto di Parma, beef carpaccio, and handmade tortelli. Soon, our table is filled with fried bread and the thinly-sliced dry-cured ham, paper-thin raw beef, and specialty pasta dishes. The meal, though rustic, is delicious. We savor each bite and marvel at the beauty of the setting. As the sun sets behind the hills, we wonder what lies in store for us during our stay in Parma.
A City Steeped in Culinary History
A few days later, we set out to explore the city. Founded by the ancient Etruscans, an Italian civilization predating the Roman Empire, Parma is a city steeped in culinary history. In Roman times, local inhabitants cured pork for preservation. And in the Middle Ages, monks experimented with fermenting milk to form different types of cheese. As travelers, we knew little about the Parma area. To get to know the city and its history better, we decided to start our visit with a walking tour.
The Passeggiata dei Sapori, also known as the Walk of Taste, is a free 24-stop walking tour organized by the Parma tourism board. The tour guides travelers through the streets of old Parma, offering visitors information about Parma’s food history through placards placed along the walking route. Through our walk, we learned how the fertility of Parma’s surrounding Po Valley made the area conducive to growing crops and raising livestock. As such, even in the Middle Ages, Parma had a thriving meat trade. Additionally, the city’s close proximity to brine wells (salt mines) made it easy to access salt for curing and preserving meat. This access to salt, an important ingredient in the cheesemaking process, also made cheese production much easier. Over time, these factors converged to make Parma one of the gastronomical capitals of Italy. Parma is home to ParmigianoReggiano cheese and Prosciutto di Parma ham, both food staples among Italian cuisine. Dairies from the area produce over 3.6 million wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano each year, while local ham factories produce about 9 million legs of ham. Despite the billions of euros the industry brings into the area, the production of these foods remains as true to traditional methods as possible. During our stay in Parma, we visited the Musei del Cibo’s food museums scattered throughout the surrounding towns. There are currently seven with one more expected to open in 2020. Each one, though small, offers an excellent dive into the history and production of a particular food, whether it be tomatoes, wine, prosciutto, or salami. We enjoyed sampling fresh Prosciutto di Parma at the Museo del Prosciutto di Parma and Felino salami at The Museum of Salame.
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Throughout our time in Parma, we marveled at how Italians seem to take so much pride in their food. This attitude differs slightly from the typical American perspective towards food, which seems to focus more on its utilitarian purpose and its sugar and calorie content. From our vantage point as visitors, a meal is more than just a source of sustenance for Italians: it’s an event. Meals are lengthy affairs with multiple courses, and careful thought is placed in its preparation. The ancient traditions that go into creating food, from the production of the ingredients to the composition of the meal, remain strong. Nowhere was that connection to tradition more evident than at Caseificio San Pier Damiani, one of the dairies east of Parma that produces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. The dairy offers tours to the public and walks visitors through the process of creating Parmigiano-Reggiano, from the mixing of the milk with rennet to the aging of the wheels. During our visit, we saw how modern machinery such as temperature-controlled vats helps make the cheesemaking process easier in many ways. Yet we also saw that despite the addition of modern tools, the actual process of cheesemaking, as well as the ingredient list, has remained relatively unchanged since the Middle Ages. According to our guide, true ParmigianoReggiano should only include three ingredients: milk, rennet, and salt. At the end of our stay in Parma, we visited another osteria, Osteria Restori, 42 km (19 mi) southwest of Parma. The father and son owners greeted our family as if we were old friends and sat us at an outdoor table overlooking the rolling hills. Near our table was a large group, talking and laughing loudly over wine and pasta. As I watched them converse with one another, silverware and plates clinking as they happily ate their meal, I thought about our time in Parma. In this part of Italy, food really is life. It not only serves as a source of fuel but also a source of income for families who live in the area. With so much reliance on food, it’s not surprising that it holds such a place of reverence among Italians. Food also brings people and families together at a shared table. Meals are not rushed but savored, and relationships are strengthened throughout the process of preparing and sharing meals. In travel, food can often serve as a window to the culture and history of a destination. We saw the influences of trade, social and economic structures, and even historical events reflected in the dishes we ate. In the case of Italy, I saw a glimpse of a country that takes pride in holding on to its traditions and sharing those traditions with others. My journey through Parma was more than just a typical tourist visit; it was an experience of love and celebration through food.
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EXPERIENCING PARMA’S FOOD There are multiple ways families can experience Parma’s food, including exploring on their own by following a self-guided tour or taking a food tour by a tour company in the region. Passeggiata dei Sapori This free walking tour begins at the Piazza Grande in old Parma and ends on the corner of Borgo Palmia and Strada Luigi Carlo Farini. The 3.3 km (1.5 mi) walking route takes approximately 3–6 hours to complete, depending on the length of time spent at each stop. lapasseggiatadeisapori.it/en Musei del Cibo The seven museums comprising the Musei del Cibo are located in towns outside of Parma along a 79 km (49 mi) route between Polesine Parmense and Langhirano. Admission to each museum is 5€ for adults and €3 for children. (The euro is slightly stronger than the U.S. dollar, so €5 is roughly US$5.50.) However, for €12, families can purchase a Musei del Cibo Card, which grants access to all seven of the museums and expires in a year. www.museidelcibo.it/en Caseificio San Pier Damiani This traditional dairy offers tours in either Italian or English every day of the week, starting at 8:45 a.m. Visitors can see the process of cheesemaking as well as sample various ages of parmesan cheese. Tours cost €20 per person and last approximately two hours. www.sanpierdamiani.com/en Maestro Travel Experience For a more organized tour experience, Maestro Travel Experience offers the TastyBus food tour. A half-day tour, which costs €59 per adult, includes a visit to a Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese factory and a Parma ham factory. The full-day tour, which costs €85, also includes lunch at a typical trattoria (an eatery more formal than an osteria) as well as a visit to a balsamic vinegar distillery. Tours are available every day, starting at 9:30 a.m. www.maestrotravelexperience.com
ALL PHOTOS: ASTRID VINJE
Connections to Tradition
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OUTSIDE THE CLASSROOM
Tour Rome with Kids D
epending on whom you ask, Rome was either founded by Romulus (the son of Mars, who was nursed by a she-wolf in the hills overlooking where the city was eventually built) or grew from farming tribes that settled along the Tiber River. Regardless, everyone agrees that Roman history is vast and varied, and the city has been one of the most influential to the modern world. Finding a way to make history come alive for our kids can sometimes be a challenge, but tours where they can see history come alive are an excellent way to have fun and learn at the same time.
Colosseum Tour The Colosseum, an amphitheater in the center of Rome, was famously used to host munera (gladiatorial shows), venatio (animal hunts), and damnatio ad bestias (execution by wild animal). This amphitheater was the biggest of its time, drawing 50,000+ spectators to witness the displays of bloodsport. Our Colosseum tour guide, Francesco, was able to draw from a deep-base of knowledge of many areas of Roman history and development to convey the right amount of information to pique our kids’ interest without boring them with unnecessary details. And he easily contrasted ancient Rome with Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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real-life experiences that are familiar to our kids, the differences intriguing them. After being led through the vomitorium (the portals that allowed Romans, foreigners, and slaves to fill the arena’s seats in less than 15 minutes), Francesco quipped, “they didn’t have to go through security,” explaining how quickly people could enter the Colosseum to be seated. From the upper level of the arena, we gazed across the city and learned the significance of the nearby Constantine Arch memorializing Constantine I’s military victories. We also viewed buildings along the skyline from Ancient Rome, built in the varied styles of the Renaissance, the Reformation, and contemporary construction, suggesting that the city would go on forever, which contributed to Rome’s nickname of “The Eternal City.” The kids remembered that point as we strolled the streets several days later and found the ancient ruins where Julius Caesar was stabbed to death in 44 B.C. In the lower bowl of the amphitheater, we wondered at the magnitude of the structure, in both size and legend. We noted the similarity of the design and capacity of the nearly 2,000-year-old Colosseum to most current football stadiums. We learned that in ancient Rome, the wealthiest citizens occupied the seats in front closest to the action, much like we see in modern venues (although there are no luxury skyboxes to be seen). The original wooden floor of the arena has long disappeared, worn away by time, but a reconstructed section provides an idea of how the arena floor may have looked in gladiator times. Much of what is now visible is the hypogeum’s underground labyrinth of passages where animals and slaves
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were kept before it was their turn to take part in the games being played above their heads. The subterranean level looks bright and somewhat inviting now, with moss growing on the brick walls, but Francesco drew a vivid picture of the damp, dark, and desperate conditions that existed in 80 A.D. The highlight of the tour, especially for a family as competitive as ours, was a trivia contest proxied by our guide that pitted parents against kids and required us to tally the points we scored for correct answers in Roman numerals. Knowledge of Greek and Roman gods was key!
Crypts, Bones, and Catacombs Rome has been described as a lasagna, with many layers of history, each of its levels full of mysteries and relics of ancient rituals. Since my daughter keeps a collection of artistic skulls and my son has a thing for zombies, we thought going underground for a taste of Rome’s spiritual and macabre past would allow my wife and me to learn about significant places and artifacts of early Christianity without putting the kids to sleep. The most famous site of Rome’s underground history is the 16th-century “bone chapel” in the basement of the Church of Santa Maria della Concezione, where six crypts filled with the bones of 4,000 Capuchin monks have been fashioned into decorations that include chandeliers, skeletons dressed in Capuchin robes, patterns on the ceilings and walls, and skulls with shoulder blades for wings, along with just plain old piles of bones. While my daughter nearly salivated at the sight of all those skulls, our guide Andrea explained that the collection was not
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just to satisfy some macabre impulse of this order of Franciscan monks but to depict various Christian themes, including the cycle of life and rebirth. At our second stop, outside the city walls, we wandered through dozens of underground tunnels in the Catacombs di Priscilla. The tunnels were carved out of the soft volcanic tufa stone that provides the foundation for Rome, containing thousands of shelves where bodies of early Christians were laid to rest. No bones remain because, over the centuries, the tunnels have been looted and the bones have either been sold as souvenirs or returned to their families to be interred on more sacred grounds (for example, in a cemetery next to a church). Our guide did show us one femur bone that had been left behind, which gave my kids pause as they explored the maze of hallways. Some of the corridors run off into infinite darkness, and it was easy to imagine how dank, dark, and scary a place this must have been when it was full of bodies. Back in the city center at the 12th-century Basilica di San Nicola in Carcere, we touched the original columns of the pagan temple over which the church was built before descending underground to stroll along part of an original Roman pedestrian market, with recesses in the walls on either side of the sidewalk where the merchant stalls would have been. The kids were awed to realize that this was the original level where the hustle and bustle of ancient Rome took place, so far removed from the current level of the city where city buses and fashionable Italians were going about the daily business of modern life above our heads. It reminded us again that Rome
has many layers. By going into its crypts and catacombs, we had gotten a taste of the religious foundation on which it was built. Seeing historic sites firsthand added to our family’s understanding of features we’d only seen in books. Being in these tombs and tunnels allowed us to envision what life was like in ancient Rome in a way we couldn’t before. And while it’s certainly possible to visit these attractions independently, a guide service with your family’s needs and interests in mind can make the experience even richer.
W
hile there are many tour operators providing tours of the Colosseum, Rome Tours with Kids (www. rometourswithkids.com) is specifically designed with kids in mind. Tours last two and one-half hours and cost €200 (about US$222), not including the cost of the entry ticket to the Colosseum and the nearby Roman Forum and Palatine Hill complex. As a bonus, however, the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine Hill entry ticket can be used on consecutive days (but not for the same attraction). Numerous operators also offer a glimpse into Rome’s underground. The Crypts, Bones & Catacombs tour offered by Walks of Italy (www.walksofitaly.com) costs €160 (about $178) and lasts about three hours, with about 30 minutes of that time in a bus traveling to the different sites. It is a group tour, but due to the small spaces of the sites visited, groups are kept to a maximum of 15 persons.
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IN THE FIELD
Vatican City Vatican City is the smallest country in the world, encompassing a mere 110 acres and boasting a population fewer than 1,000 people. Still, it is significant to millions as the home of the Pope and headquarters of the Catholic Church. Even for non-Catholics, visiting Vatican City should top the list for any trip to Rome. Vatican City is located entirely within Rome, sharing a border with Rome that spans only two-miles. It’s possible to see the entire country in a few hours. Vatican City houses a treasure trove of world-class cultural artifacts as well as magnificent architecture and other works of art. St. Peter’s Basilica is the largest church in the world and one of the most famous works of Renaissance architecture. The church’s dome, as iconic a landmark as Rome’s Colosseum, was designed in part by Michelangelo. Climb its 551 steps for 360-degree views of St. Peter’s Square and the city of Rome. The entire interior of the church is decorated with marble, gilding, mosaics, monuments, and tombs, and is home to Michelangelo’s Pieta sculpture and a ten-story altar designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the Baroque sculptor credited with creating the style. St. Peter’s Square, the enormous plaza fronting the Basilica, can accommodate as many as 400,000 people. It makes for great people watching, and you may even see the Pope as he delivers his blessing from the Papal chambers in the Vatican Palace. The colonnade that surrounds the plaza is designed to symbolize an embrace of the people in the plaza in the maternal arms of Mother Church. Be sure to check out the ancient red granite obelisk in the center of the square that was brought back from Egypt by Rome’s conquering armies in 37 A.D. St. Peter’s Square and St. Peter’s Basilica are the focal points of Vatican City and are at their peak during the holiday season, when 15,000 people are invited to attend a Christmas Eve Mass delivered in the Basilica by the Pope. Tickets are free upon request on the Vatican’s official website beginning in November, but demand is high, so start the process as early as possible. Not able to get tickets? A simultaneous live broadcast of the mass from St. Peter’s Square can be viewed on a first-come basis. The Vatican Museums are Vatican City’s national museum of art with nearly 70,000 paintings, sculptures, pottery, and other ancient artifacts collected by the popes since the 16th century. It has been calculated that if one minute were spent viewing each item, it would take 11 years to see everything. Highlights include a large collection of artifacts from ancient Egypt; Greek and Roman sculptures; paintings from Leonardo da Vinci, Caravaggio, and Pablo Picasso; and a series of works by Renaissance master Raphael. And of course, no visit to Vatican City is complete without visiting the Sistine Chapel. Completed over a four-year period, this series of frescoes (a method of painting on fresh plaster) by Michelangelo depicts several scenes from the Old Testament, beginning with the Creation of the World and ending at the story of Noah and the Flood. The nine ceiling panels of the Sistine Chapel are considered to be one of the great jewels of Western Art and are alone worth visiting Vatican City.
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Paul Carlino
WORLD SCHOOL PROJECTS
Cat Chiappa
LEARNING FROM THE MASTERS: HOW TO CREATE INSPIRING ARTWORK IN YOUR OWN HOME A
rt museums are wonderful places to be enjoyed by people of all ages as they’re full of rich culture, fascinating objects, and breathtaking art. They tell the story of what makes us human and create opportunities for inspiration and innovation for all
those who step inside. However, even the best museum visits can’t last forever, so here are some ideas for ways to extend the experience for your family beyond the gallery walls and into your own home.
Eric Carle Many children become familiar with the work of Eric Carle at a very young age. He is an American illustrator and writer of many children’s books but is most known for the picture book The Very Hungry Caterpillar. As a lover of nature, Carle’s art is full of images of plants and animals created in a collage technique from painted papers which he uses to create bright and colorful scenes. Visit: If you find yourself in Amherst, Massachusetts, make sure you stop at the Eric Carle Museum of Picture Book Art. www.carlemuseum.org Beyond the Museum: You will need a canvas or stiff card stock of any size (preferably black), washable acrylic paint or watercolors, sturdy watercolor paper, scissors, and glue. Fun animal stencils or animal hole punches are optional. Take some time to read a few of Carle’s iconic children’s classics. Talk about the colors and textures of the illustrations and fun natural history facts about the animals and plants pictured. Next, take a couple of sheets of watercolor paper and completely fill each page with color. Use multiple colors, patterns, and designs, making sure the page is filled. Fingerpaint or create more intricate designs with brushes. Once the painting is complete, use stencils or hole punches to add more design elements to the watercolor paper, then cut the watercolor paper into a variety of shapes and sizes and create a fun scene on the canvas, gluing down each painted piece. This artwork could illustrate your own nature-inspired book!
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“Every child is an artist.” -Pablo Picasso
Frida Kahlo Known for her Mexican, European, and indigenous style, Frida Kahlo painted portraits, self-portraits, and many other works inspired by the nature and artifacts of Mexico. She liked to mix elements of realism and fantasy into her work and often used autobiographical components in her paintings. Visit: Her work can be found in many museums all over the world. However, if you find yourself in Mexico City, try visiting
Michelangelo Often lauded as the greatest artist of all time, Michelangelo was a gifted painter and sculptor, creating some of his most famous works (like the sculptures PietĂ and David) before the age of 30. One of his most iconic works was the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, which took four years to create! Visit: A visit to Rome is not complete without a stop at the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City to view the incredibly influential architecture and artwork of this historic building. www.museuvaticani.va
the Museo Dolores Olmedo as there is a large permanent collection of her work housed inside. www.MuseoDoloresOlmedo.org.mx Beyond the Museum: You will need a full-page black and white portrait of your child, a blank page of sturdy white card stock as large or larger than the portrait, colored pencils, markers, scissors, and recycled magazines for collage elements. First, read the book Frida Kahlo and Her Animalitos by Monica Brown, which teaches kids about Kahlo and highlights the connection to animals and nature in her artwork. The next step is to create a self-portrait of your own. Draw one, or convert a black and white photograph into a line drawing using a computer program like PicMonkey. Then, use colored pencils to brightly color the self-portrait using the bold style of Kahlo. Once the coloring process is complete, use scissors to cut away the portrait from the background and glue it to the center of the card stock. Then, use markers to create a colorful border around the portrait. Flip through the magazines, looking for elements of nature (animals, plants, and more) that represent something important about your family. Cut out the images and artfully glue them to on the page around the self-portrait. Frame the final product and display it in your home for all to enjoy!
Beyond the Museum: You will need a kitchen table or picnic table, a large section of butcher paper taped to the underside, crayons, pencils or markers, and tape. Talk about what it would be like to paint a ceiling, lying on your back for hours at a time. How would your body have felt at the end of each day, week, and year? The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel depicts scenes from the Bible’s Book of Genesis. Talk about your favorite stories. Are there any you imagine taking years to illustrate? After your discussion, lie down underneath the kitchen table, looking up at the taped butcher paper. Use your art supplies to draw or paint your own stories using this newfound vantage point. Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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Bon Appetit
Nita Selvey
Our Taffy Pulling Tradition I
can see it vividly: a crowded house filled with activities and love; a room full of bright eyes, laughter, and giggles; and family and friends with powdered sugar faces and fingers. Oh, the memories of our annual New Year’s Eve taffy pull, now a fourth generation tradition anticipated by everyone in our family for over 55 years. Our taffy pull tradition began one New Year’s Eve in the early 1960s. My mother started the annual event when she began the process of mixing and cooking the taffy, carefully adding one ingredient at a time then stirring and cooking the taffy mixture to the perfect temperature. We always looked forward to testing time, when my mom would check to see if the taffy was cooked to the exact right temperature. She would get a small clear glass of cold water and drizzle the taffy mixture into the water; when the hot taffy made contact with the cold water, the taffy would transform into crystal strings of glass. She’d then drain the water from the cup, leaving the crystal strings for a lucky child to test it (by eating it, of course) for stickiness and stretchability. Amazingly, the taffy always needed to be tested the same number of times as there were children in attendance for the event. With excitement in their eyes, each child looked forward to his or her turn. Once my mother had the taffy cooked to perfection, she poured the golden mixture into a buttered pan and set it aside to cool to the desired temperature for pulling. It had to cool just enough not to burn the hands of the ones doing the pulling, but not so cool it was too difficult to pull. While waiting for the taffy to cool, the adults sat around sharing memories from the past, the youth played games, and the little kiddos ran around
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playing and laughing; my mother kept busy watching on the temperature of the cooling taffy. At last, my mother would announce that the taffy was ready to pull. My daddy would grab the hay hook my grandpa had made, my mother would rub butter on the hook, and the pulling began. Those wanting to help pull would butter their hands and, with my dad’s guidance, would loop the taffy over the hook and quickly begin pulling and twisting. At some point while the taffy was being pulled, mother would rub flavoring (peppermint, strawberry, vanilla, raspberry, or others) along the candy rope. Anyone wanting to pull a blob of taffy was given the opportunity. As the taffy was pulled and cooled, it changed from a golden color to white. It also became harder to twist and stretch. The taffy rope would reach from the kitchen, through the dining room and into the family room. Everyone would line up to help keep the rope of taffy from sagging to the floor. Finally, my daddy would announce that it had been pulled as much as possible, and mother would pour powdered sugar on the table to be spread over the table by hands of every size. My mother would then lay the long rope of now white taffy onto the sweetened table. If the taffy “crawled” around on the table, contracting as it cooled, it had been perfectly cooked and pulled. Once it quit crawling, the taffy was ready to be held for my mother to crack it into pieces with a knife. Everyone consumed assorted sizes of taffy that night, and each family was also given a bag of candy to take home — together with special memories to cherish for a lifetime, or at least until the next New Year’s Eve rolled around.
Bon Appetit
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Lauren Bordeaux
Kid-Friendly Austrian Kinderpunsch and Linzer Cookies C
hristmastime in Vienna, Austria, is absolutely mesmerizing. Strands of twinkling lights sparkle throughout the city, and the smells of chocolate, sugar, and spices fill the air. The chilly weather doesn’t stop tourists or city dwellers from roaming the city squares in search of treats and gifts at the many Christmas markets. Two tasty treats found at nearly all Christmas markets are delicious Linzer Stangerls (Christmas cookies) and Glühwein (hot mulled wine). For kids, the Christmas markets offer Kinderpunsch (children’s punch) as an alternative to Glühwein. Kid-Friendly Linzer Cookies • 1 cup cold butter • 2 cups flour • A little less than 1 cup of powdered sugar • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract • 3 tablespoons white sugar • 2 room temperature egg yolks • ¼ teaspoon cinnamon • Lemon zest • Berry jam • Chocolate, melted Preheat the oven to 360°F (180°C). Mix together butter, sugars, lemon zest, cinnamon, and vanilla extract, either using an electric mixer or blending the ingredients by hand. Add the egg yolks, then slowly add the flour until combined. Traditional Linzer Stangerls are rectangular shaped. However, it’s simpler to use a melon baller to make uniform balls of cookie dough. Or, to make the cookies bar shaped so they’re more dunkable, use a pastry bag to pipe the dough into rectangles. Place the shaped dough on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper or on a greased cookie sheet. Allow 1 inch between each cookie, so the dough doesn’t run together. Bake for about 10 minutes or until the cookies are golden brown. Remove the cookies from the cookie sheet and allow to cool completely on a cooling rack. Spread jam on one cookie using any variety of berry jams, then make a sandwich with another cookie. Linzer cookies traditionally are made with raspberry or red currant jam, but strawberry is delicious as well. Dip one or two sides of the cookie sandwich in melted chocolate. Bitter chocolate is traditionally used, but semi-sweet or milk chocolate can be substituted if preferred. Allow the chocolate to dry and enjoy!
Kinderpunsch Kinderpunsch is super simple and is a perfect treat for kids to help make! • • • • • • •
1 cup water ⅓ cup white sugar 6 cloves 2 cinnamon sticks 3 cups apple juice 1 lemon, sliced 1 1/2 cups orange juice
Simply combine all the above ingredients in a slow cooker and cook on low for about one hour until warm. Or, to prepare in a stock pot, add all the ingredients to the pot, bring the punch to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Serve hot. Everywhere Magazine December 2019/January 2020
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Bon Appetit
Genny Arredondo
Three Kings Cake G
rab some yeast, flour, sugar, and a tiny baby Jesus figurine — we are going to bake a cake! On the Christian calendar, January 6 is the day of the Epiphany when the three kings came to visit baby Jesus in the manger. It is a day celebrated in many cultures around the world, including in parts of Europe, throughout Latin America, and even in the U.S. in Louisiana. What ties many of these celebrations together is the baking of a Three Kings Cake. This creation is traditionally a ringshaped cake decorated with candied fruits and frosting with — surprise! — a small, ceramic baby Jesus figure baked inside. In Spanish-speaking countries, the person who is served the slice of cake with the figure is tasked with hosting a party on the dia de la Candelaria (February 2); in New Orleans, its recipient is tasked with hosting the next year’s party or baking the next year’s cake, while in other parts of the world, it signifies a lucky year. Ingredients: • ¼ teaspoon sugar • ¼ cup water, warmed • 1 packet active dry yeast • ¼ cup milk, warmed • ⅓ cup sugar • ½ tsp salt • ½ stick butter, softened • 3 ½ cups flour • 5 eggs (3 for the cake and 2 for an egg wash)
Mix together the warm milk, butter, remaining sugar, and salt in a large bowl until the butter and sugar are mostly dissolved. Add 3 eggs to the wet ingredient mixture and stir with a spoon until uniform in color. Slowly add in the flour and mix by hand until combined. Knead the dough thoroughly on a lightly-floured surface so that all ingredients are combined into one large dough ball. Then, place the ball back into the greased large bowl, cover it with a kitchen towel, and allow the dough to rise for one hour in a warm area. After the hour is complete, place the dough onto a lightlyfloured surface, roll it into a long rope, and connect the ends to form a ring. Use a little bit of water to get the dry dough to adhere to itself. Place the dough ring on a greased cookie sheet. Insert the baby Jesus into the dough (feel free to substitute a dry bean or glass marble if a ceramic baby Jesus can’t be obtained), and decorate with candied fruit and generous helpings of decorative paste. The paste can be made by mixing together ¼ cup granulated sugar, ¼ cup softened butter, 1 egg, and ¾ cup of flour and piping it onto the cake prior to baking. Once the cake is fully decorated, brush the entire exterior with an egg wash (1 egg mixed with 1 tablespoon water) and sprinkle some granulated sugar over top. Bake the cake at 350°F for 30 minutes. The Three Kings Cake is especially delicious served warm alongside some Mexican hot chocolate for dipping.
Directions: Start off by combining the warm water, ¼ teaspoon sugar, and yeast in a small bowl, and let stand for 5–10 minutes to activate the yeast. (The mixture should become frothy.)
Important safety tip: make sure to remind guests that they should search for the baby Jesus in each bite before consuming. Biting or choking on a porcelain baby Jesus is no joke, and nobody needs a Three Kings Day emergency room trip.
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Lauren Bordeaux
Foreign Service Youth Foundation
COURTESY OF MAGGIE MOORE
M
aggie Moore walked into her new international school in Bangkok, Thailand, not knowing exactly what to expect. She would be making new friends, encountering a new culture, meeting new teachers, and finding new ways to get involved. We’ve all been in those situations, and they can be overwhelming. Maggie, however, found a place to call home within her new school community right away. Since she was 7 years old, Maggie has been actively involved in an organization called Operation Smile. An international medical charity, Operation Smile raises funds to provide free surgeries to children and young adults in developing countries with cleft lip, cleft palate, or other facial and dental conditions. The project is personal for Maggie as she was born with a cleft lip. “When I was around 7 years old, after one of my own surgeries,” Maggie explains, “my passion for helping kids receive life-changing surgeries began.” She proudly set up shop selling lemonade in her quiet American neighborhood. Maggie sold lemonade for hours and days on end for children she had never met but who were born with her same difficulties. In the end, she raised US$90 to benefit Operation Smile. “Not much for many, but to me, that money was one of my second-grade self’s proudest accomplishments,” she said. Five years ago, her family began life in the U.S. Foreign Service. They made their way to Nairobi, Kenya, three years ago and have been living in Bangkok for the past year. When Maggie found out that her new school in Bangkok had an Operation Smile Club, she immediately signed up. She’s been actively involved in the club throughout the year, and living in Bangkok has only grown her desire to help the organization. “By living overseas, we are exposed to the raw and real needs of those less fortunate than us and how we can best serve those needs,” Maggie said. Maggie has helped organize and implement many fundraisers and advocacy events through the Operation Smile Club at her school. Her most treasured and impactful experience was traveling on an Operation Smile Mission to Mae Sot near the Burmese border. She was among a team of nine students and two teachers who assisted a team from Operation Smile. Her team brought “smile bags” filled with hygiene items to the families of kids receiving care for their cleft lips and palates.
Little Heroes She helped comfort kids in the hospital waiting room and was even able to observe a surgery. “It was eye-opening to see the lengths people go to in order to get their kids medical care,” she said. “I saw multiple people sleeping on windowsills, and in the pre-surgery wards, families had mats on the floor in a crowded, stuffy hospital.” This year Maggie was honored with the Foreign Service Youth Foundation’s Community Service Award. She attended the awards ceremony in Washington, D.C., at the U.S. Department of State Headquarters. She won an award of $2,000 and is donating a portion to Operation Smile and putting the rest toward her college fund. Maggie is looking forward to continuing her fundraising and advocacy work. “Operation Smile has provided me with the most amazing experience and new perspectives and outlooks on life and how I can better help others,” she explained. “It brings me such joy to help these kids, and I have made such personal, life-changing connections with them.” To find out more about Operation Smile, visit www.operationsmile.org.
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Sketches
Serafina Croucher is a 6-year-old girl from Western Australia. She has traveled a lot with her family and thrives on the lack of routine that travel allows. She loves caring for animals, reading, crafts, and outdoor adventures, especially if they involve water.
“Yep, the little girl on the bike is me, Amira Gilbert. You see, I am a very stubborn person, and no one (and when I say no one, I mean NO ONE) can make me do what I do not want to do. So there I was, a few years ago, faced with having to ride a bike in the Netherlands — and I don’t like bikes, never have and still don’t. I gave it a try for a few minutes, fell over, cracked it, and cried. The next thing I knew, I was on the handlebars of my dad’s bike, being carried along the trail, seeing all those pretty and amazing Kinderdijk windmills. I still hate bikes, and I am still loath to be on one, but the memory is one of the best from our travels around the world.” Amira Gilbert is 13 (turning 14) years old. She loves to travel, draw, and be with animals. She is a writer and wants to become a fantasy teen author. When she travels, she likes to eat bucketloads of ice cream wherever and whenever she can!
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“Last Christmas, we did a house swap from Perth to Brisbane, Australia. We spent Christmas Day at the South Bank Parklands, which is a man-made beach with pools by the river in the city centre. We played in the water all day. At the house, they had a huge outside deck with a big table, and we had Christmas dinner. From the deck, we could see big trees with lots of flying foxes in them; they would fly around and shriek all evening. We don’t have them at home, so it was really fun to watch!”
CARNE / JULY 2019
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