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As a barber, your only limitations are dictated by your client, and their lifestyle. For example, when I am working with general clients, the limitations we are working around are their lifestyle, routine, job and so forth.

Whereas when I’m creating a creative look for a collection, I want to push everything to the limit. I want to break all barriers. I’m going to go beyond what their lifestyle is to add whatever product, or perform whatever service, I believe is going to be beneficial to carry out the look.

Another scenario is when I am grooming an professional athlete. The limitation here is that I know I need to be restrictive of the amount of color or pomades I use, because they sweat so much.

I recently did a cut that was a little different, while I was platform educating at IBS New York . It was on one of my models who had straight hair, and I focused on adding lot of texture using clippers. For that gentleman, it was a little bit of both a general purpose haircut and a creative cut. I didn’t go too far, but I did go further than I would for the standard athlete. The reason I did that was to showcase a picture perfect haircut. I added a little bit of color and hair fibers. I focused on using American Crew Pomade for the purpose of adding texture to his crown to highlight more of the texture that was created with the clippers. I wanted to create a look that was unique and it was perfect for the photoshoot that we did right after.

BY KENNY DUNCAN

To create the look shown in this column, I used the new Andis Centennial Bespoke Trimmer. I used it at the bottom of the fade, into the beard and into the haircut. Both in the temples and the nape area. I then used the Black Andis reVITE with the fade blade both closed and open to do my tapering. I paired it with the K Duncan Comb Collection. to clipper over comb his sides, and then I used the same clipper to do a technique called ‘share style’ which adds texture. At this point of my showcase, I changed the name of my clippers to mechanical shears, which makes it easy for the hairstylists to understand.

Then I used the Andis BeSPOKE Trimmer to do my outline. I used a semi-permanent color to darken the outline on the temple to provide contrast to stand out, then I used a hair fiber. To give it a matte finish, I used American Crew Pomade which highlighted the texture created with the clippers.

If you want to push your own limits, I would advise you to find a mentor in whatever it is that you are not a specialist in. Then you can equip yourself with techniques that will help you go beyond what you would normally do. Your level of expertise paired with somebody else’s expertise will inspire you to incorporate their skillset into what you do. You’d be surprised what two combined skillsets can come up with! It will give you possibilities that will be endless.

I recently experimented with the American Crew range of styling products and fell in love with their Pomade, Boost Powder, Forming Cream, and Whip. The AC Pomade that I used helps me to treat what I like to call ‘organized chaos’. I disrupted the interior length by making some of the hair shorter. And what I want the pomade to do is help some of the hair stick together to help define the texture even more and to help with the separation and lift.

There are products in the American Crew range for all types of hair. For example, fine hair. I would use American Crew Boost Powder because I want to focus on lifting. I don’t want to focus on anything wet, because that can make the hair look thinner. For curly hair, it depends on the ethnicity of the client. The height and number in the curl pattern typically uses moisture to help define a curl, so I want to use products with shea butter as a base to help define the curl when it comes to 3C, 3B, 4A, B and C. When it comes to a 1C, I still focus on using pomades or even gels to help define the curl. Sometimes it will just be water to help accentuate the curl, or maybe use a light holding spray to help hold the style. For the stylist’s workstation I recommend a the K Duncan Comb Collective. The combs are heat resistant, so instead of using a brush to create lift, I prefer to use a comb. I comb the hair to its full attention and then use a hair dryer with a concentrator to point the hot air right at the hair that is being pulled with tension to get a good root lift.

BY IVAN ZOOT

COLUMNIST,

Combs have been used by humans for over 5,000 years. The materials have evolved from wood and bone to modern polymer plastics. If there is an overarching theme to the evolution of our creation and use of combs it is the notion of increasing specialization. Modern combs are designed and

Clipper combs – Used for clipperover-comb techniques. Ideally, these feature wide, flat tooth areas with no pronounced spine ridge. Flexibility is limited in favor of stability and control. Mid-tone colors make it easy to see guide lines and tapering imperfections. Handle areas feature texture for grip and control.

ONECOMB to make specific tasks easier and more efficient. Today’s professional haircutters have lots of comb choices. The key is to match the comb to the cutting tool and the specific cutting situation. Use the guide below to make informed choices of combs and their use and application.

Scissor cutting combs – Perhaps the widest range of shapes, materials and tooth configurations. Straight spines are helpful for scissor-over-comb cutting. Fine teeth aid in maintaining tension on the hair for precision and shape crafting. Length, weight and flexibility become very personal preferences.

Pros reach for OneComb

Blending scissor combs – Wide teeth are preferred so as not to influence the position and fall of the hair. Blending scissors are more about how the hair behaves under its own weight and growth direction. Lighter colors aid in visibility of weight lines and imperfections in the finished shape.

Trimmer combs – Finishing work is addressing the smallest and finest of details. Thin, flexible, fine-tooth combs are ideal for polishing the perimeter of haircuts with close cutting trimmers. Tapered shapes for closer work and mid-tone colors for visibility are important in trimming combs.

You only need one comb – and that's the OneComb by Ivan Zoot. It's the ultimate professional haircutting comb, zoned for optimal performance. For scissor, clipper, trimmer, razor, and blending use. Unique tooth configurations optimize cutting on all hair types and textures with 18 engineered features to make you a better pro haircutter. The tool has a concave positioning arc, sectioning tooth, smooth surface for easy clipperover-comb, castle teeth for all hair types and textures, ruler markings, and is perfectly weighted. It's reversable for left or right-hand use too… the list goes on. Why

Efficiency - Quick to use.

Confidence - You have the tools you need.

Control - The right tool for all hair types and textures.

Razor combs – Razor cutting is all about movement and texture. Wide and staggered tooth patterns make razor cutting flow more naturally. Lower tension on the hair assists in creating soft shapes with maximum movement. Thicker, more rigid materials aid in overall control.

For help building your barber business connect with Ivan at ivanzoot.com

I created my OneComb with these ideas in mind. No one comb can be your one comb until OneComb. OneComb is zoned to offer a variety of tooth designs, patterns and configurations to support all cutting tools and all hair types and textures. Learn more about OneComb at ivanzoot.com

Consistency - Deliver the right cut every time.

Cleanliness - Less station-top clutter. Unbreakable // Recyclable //

CARMEN REYNA IS A CALIFORNIA NATIVE, BASED AT THE BAXTER FINLEY BARBER & SHOP IN WEST HOLLYWOOD, CA. WE SPOKE TO CARMEN ABOUT HER TIPS ON CREATING THE PERFECT WEST COAST STYLES.

Originally from Bakersfield, CA, Carmen has moved up and down the coast for the majority of her adult life. She became licensed in 2010 and has been working in the hair industry ever since.

Carmen said: “I am very fortunate to have been able to live and thrive everywhere I’ve moved to solely on barbering. After caring for people for so long they eventually become family and work flies by because I get to catch up with friends all day. They get a confidence boost, I get paid, and we all win in the end. It’s truly a beautiful profession.”

Carmen specializes in razor cutting and working with curly hair. She is also known for her quick but thorough consultations. She said: “Being a barber, we usually work on 30-minute time slots but that doesn’t mean we need to skimp on the consultation. Good consultation and clear communication are what is going to set you up for success.”

Carmen has been working with Baxter of California products since the beginning of her barbering career, until becoming a barber at their flagship shop, Baxter Finley in 2017. “What initially drew me to the line was that it offered skincare as well as hair, body, shave and lifestyle products, basically everything a man needs for his grooming routine.” Most barber lines only do pomades, but this one has it all. Now that I work at the shop, I have direct access to labs and get to request what I want to be made. If there’s a need for it, we’ll make some prototypes, test them at the barbershop and get them made.

“My new favorite is the Shea Butter Pomade we just released. It’s so moisturizing and great for coarse hair that just needs a little extra love. Imagine a rich leave-in conditioner with a bit of hold. That’s it!

“My other favorite product is our brandnew Exfoliating Beard Oil. It’s formulated with salicylic acid, shea butter as well as other natural ingredients that not only soften the hair, but keeps the skin underneath exfoliated and hydrated to combat itchiness and that ever annoying flaky skin that can accumulate under a beard.”

Baxter of California is a true Californian brand. It was first launched in 1965 by Baxter Finley in

Los Angeles and has been developed, tried, and tested in California ever since. I asked Carmen how Baxter of California represents the West Coast style. She said: “For starters, Baxter Finley Barber & Shop is Los Angeles, CA. We, as in the barbers, lab techs, and all of our team that work behind the scenes are based in LA. We live and work here. It’s more than just the beach. We enjoy the deserts, the forests, mountains, and the beaches. California is a geographic paradise and perfect for outdoor adventures. 1/3 of the countries fresh produce comes from here so that makes for a huge fresh and multi-cultural food scene, which is what makes it so special. Music and entertainment is everywhere and that just adds to why we love it here so much. We really do live the California lifestyle.

Carmen told us what defines Californian hairstyles. She said: “We have all walks of life in California. So, sometimes it’s not a trend. It’s more about what works for the individual, and that can be trendsetting all on its own. It’s more of a mentality. Easy, and effortless. That’s what a good haircut and product should do for you. No fuss necessary.”

Carmen’s top three West Coast styles: “Number one, the mullet, but with a softer, 70’s influence. Less punk, more funk. I would use Baxter of California’s Grooming Cream in dry hair for a light, soft hold.

“Number two, the classic scissor cut. Sits on the ears slightly and is softer around the sides. This is a more relaxed gentleman’s cut that looks great with anything and works well with any type and texture of hair. Any of the classic pomades will work on this, depending on the vibe and occasion you are dressing for. This is a quick, put some pomade in your hands and go type of cut. Dry or well-toweldried hair is preferred, but like I said no fuss.

“And number three, the low fade with a long top. Natural edges but is still very clean. The top is styled very loosely that way you can still put your hands in it. I would style it with the Clay Pomade and Clay Effect Spray. Blow dry at the base to create some volume but leave the ends slightly damp and spray in after. Use very little Clay Pomade, just to hold down the fuzzy bits around the sides of the head.”

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BY TAYLOR LEVEN

TAYLOR LEVEN IS AN EDUCATOR AND OWNER OF HEADSPACE BARBERSHOP IN CHICAGO.

TAYLOR, A LICENSED COSMETOLOGIST AND BARBER, TALKS ABOUT HOW THE BARBERSHOP IS STARTING TO SEE LONGER LENGTHS OF HAIR AND HOW IMPORTANT IT IS TO EDUCATE OUR CLIENTS ON AT-HOME STYLING.

I have a background in both cosmetology and barbering which means I can use both skillsets to get the results I need. Styling short hair and styling long hair are two totally different ball games and for that, I would say my background in cosmetology has definitely helped me with the longer length trends that are resurfacing the barber world. Short hair requires totally different products, brushes, and styling techniques. When I started barbering, there was no education for longer lengths because we just weren’t seeing those styles within the barbershop walls. Product knowledge and styling are so important for people who are wanting to wear their hair long for the first time, because they haven’t been taught how to care for it, maintain it, or style it. It’s our job to teach them.

As more guys are growing their hair out longer, especially if this is new to them, there is a refresh needed on how to style their hair in the morning.

I’ve noticed that half of our time together is spent educating on maintaining and styling. Along with longer lengths, people are also trying to wear more lived-in styles and embrace their natural wave patterns.

With that, we have to educate them on curly hair products, properly maintaining, and daily styling. Our clients are not just paying for a haircut. They are paying for our knowledge on all things hair related. It’s our job to make sure they can make their hair look as good as it does when they leave the shop.

Lately, for longer hair, my favorite styling tool has been a diffuser. Everyone wants low maintenance, those get up and go hairstyles, and the diffuser is perfect for that. It lets the hair dry into its natural fall. My favorite product for the longer length, lived-in looks is grooming cream. Grooming cream is great because it hydrates the hair and gives it control, without having too much hold that you can’t run your fingers through it. It seems to be the perfect get up and go product. You can even put it in damp hair, comb into place, and let it air dry. I would recommend the Victory Brand Grooming Cream. Changing the way we approach a longer style compared to a shorter style is a real shift for barbers. We’re wired to make everything sharp and perfect, but longer length hairstyles are more soft around the edges. Not everything has to be lined up and tapered to perfection. These longer trends are more about shape, and flattering the clients features.

When you are styling longer hair, it’s important to take hair texture into account.

I will normally take a grooming cream for more ruly hair and I will either air dry or diffuse. For hair that is very unruly and frizzy, I’ve found the JPMS Straight Works Straightening Gel is an amazing leave-in product that will smooth out the client’s hair. I always say it’s the closest thing you can get to a keratin treatment, plus you can blow dry it in as well.

Dry shampoo is a great product to educate our clients on. They shouldn’t be washing their hair every day, especially if they want to keep their long hair hydrated and shiny. Dry shampoo is the perfect product in between shampoos, to give the appearance of a fresh wash.

If you want to upskill yourself a little more on styling longer hair we are lucky to have access to so much education online! I recommend looking up styling videos on YouTube. Practice makes perfect! Try out some styles on a mannequin or other barbers at the shop. If we don’t evolve with the new trends we will get left behind. We must keep up and keep educating ourselves! It’s easier than ever before.

IN 2022, ALEX MARTINEZ (AKA @SNAXTHEBARBER_)

WAS AWARDED BARBERCON’S “BEST KEPT SECRET” TROPHY. BUT NOW, BARBEREVO IS LETTING THE SECRET OUT! ALEX’S STYLE AND ATTENTION TO DETAIL ARE WHAT GOT HIM NOTICED, AND WHAT HE HAS BECOME KNOWN FOR.

Alex has been working at Mikes

Custom Kuts Barbershop (owned by Michael Giraldo) on Long Island, NJ for about a decade now. Mikes is known for being the home to top barbers who are often taking home trophies from industry events.

Alex said: “The journey of how I have become the barber I am today has been pretty cool. I have learned a lot about the industry and how to be professional when it comes to my craft from Mike.”

I asked Alex how he felt about taking home BarberCon’s “Best Kept Secret Award” on top of his Trophy for 2nd place for BarberCon’s Best Traditional Haircut. He said: “I was absolutely shocked! I didn’t get into this industry to be some Instagram famous barber, I just really enjoy the art of cutting and styling hair. So, for people to notice and to receive an award for my work, was a really cool thing. I feel like that’s what led me to win, just staying consistent and working as hard as I can.”

I asked Alex how he would describe his style, and what his favorite styles to create are. He said: “Traditional haircuts with a lot of volume and designs are definitely what I attract most. The designs started a few years back when I decided to bring the graffiti aspect of my life to my work life.”

So, what products are in Alex’s styling bag? He said: “I always enjoy using Muk haircare because of their wide array of products. A lot of my clients like the Filthy Muk Styling Paste, with a gritty finish and firm hold, when I’m doing a traditional haircut like pompadours, side parts or even slick backs, or the Dry Muk Styling Paste with a matt finish and strong hold when I’m doing a very texture-based haircut.

Muk has recently launched a new professional line called Mr. Muk. “The Mr. Muk products are great, the same quality of product as the originals, but have more a masculine scent, and comes in a glass container instead of a aluminum can.”

Finally, I asked Alex, what advice he has for barbers out there who want to get their work noticed. He said: “Don’t be afraid to post! Post everything. See your own progression and have others see it as well. Work hard, and step outside your comfort zone!”

Popular Nobody X Andis Slimline Pro Li Trimmer

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AMERICAN CREW FIBER ™

High hold, low shine product that helps thicken, texturize and increase fullness of the hair. It is ideal for the man who wants to add texture to his style while having absolute control. Fiber™ protects against moisture loss, conditions the hair and provides a smooth after feel. The finish results in a strong, pliable hold with a matte appearance. Fiber™ works well with shorter hair, 1-3 inches in length. americancrew.com

Baxter Of Californa Beard Grooming Oil

Our Beard Grooming Oil is here to tame any and all beard styles. Enriched with Squalene and Avocado Oil, it moisturizes and conditions not only your hair, but also the often-forgotten skin underneath your beard.

$29.00 // baxterofcalifornia.com

Captain Fawcett Sea Salt Spray

EDITOR’S CHOICE

Lifts landlocked follicles with its plant extracts and sea minerals that nourishes and fixes moisture. Adds natural texture with a matte finish.

$32.29 // captainfawcett.com

Ivan Zoot Comb Onecomb

You only need one comb. OneComb by Ivan Zoot is the ultimate professional haircutting comb. Zoned for optimal performance. For scissor, clipper, trimmer, razor, and blending scissor use. Unique tooth configurations optimize cutting on all hair types and textures with all techniques. Has 18 engineered features to make you a better pro haircutter.

$20.00 // ivanzoot.com

Brosh Cloudy Pomade

Brosh and Cloudy has created a pomade to help raise money for the Barber Academy Project. The pomade has a strong holding power that can tackle even the thickest hair types. With 10% of sales used to fund employment support in Ghana.

$25.44// broshpomade.com

WAHL PROFESSIONAL POWER STATION ™

This premium, weighted power station charges three Wahl Professional cordless clippers, trimmers or shavers with one cord and includes a USB-C port for phone or iPad charging. Six included tool inserts means you can mix and match any combo of tools.

$199.00 // wahlpro.com

DON JUAN PRE-STYLER GROOMING SPRAY

Don Juan Pre-styling Grooming Spray gives hair texture, with a light hold and a natural finish. Works well as a standalone product or as a pre-styler for use in combination with other Don Juan products.

$14.99 // donjuanpomade.com

Beard Octane Regulator Beard Butta

Get that beard looking & feeling on point, with our conditioning natural Beard Butta (aka Beard Butter)! Scent Notes: Fresh Watermint, Bright Lemongrass & Smooth Oakmoss Cologne.

$21.00 // beardoctane.com

18.21 MAN MADE WASH

A luxury 3-1 body wash, fortified shampoo and sumptuous conditioner for men, inspired by the spirit of swanky, prohibition-era speakeasy lounges. Cleans and conditions from the crown down!

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A GREAT BARBERSHOP IS ALL ABOUT STRIKING A BALANCE BETWEEN FASHION AND FUNCTION. HOW DO YOU CREATE A SPACE THAT IS RELAXING, COMFORTABLE, AND FASHIONABLE, WHILE ALSO BEING FUNCTIONAL AND PRACTICAL? BARBERSHOP OWNERS SHARE THEIR ADVICE ON HOW TO CREATE ASTYLISH SPACE FOR YOUR STYLISH CLIENTS.

Barbershop