Lining Up for Lashes

LASH EXTENSIONS PROVIDE THE LOOK OF WEARING MASCARA WITHOUT HAVING TO APPLY IT DAILY, BUT WITH THE RIGHT TECHNIQUE, IT’S ALSO POSSIBLE TO CREATE AN EYELINER EFFECT, BOOSTING THE INCREDIBLE BENEFITS OF LASH EXTENSIONS EVEN FURTHER.

In this step-by-step, Shannon Renee Murphy, Lash Expert, and NovaLash Trainer based in Long Island, New York, will explain how to achieve maximum thickness along the lash line without having to follow a complicated map or use a difficult technique. Plus, this method allows extensions to last longer and look better when shedding, which keeps clients coming back for more. Also, keep in mind that you can apply the following technique to classic or volume lashes.

Step 1

The first step is to assess your client’s natural lashes and determine which lengths and diameters are appropriate. Choose at least three different lengths.

In this technique, you will use a majority of the shortest length in the set, so grab double the amount of the shortest extensions you normally would. To keep the natural lashes healthy and to have the set last longer, I recommend adding no more than 40% additional length to the natural lashes. For added thickness, try matching the length of the natural lashes.

In this set, I used 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm lengths in C curl. For the diameters, I mostly used .07mm for fans in varying dimensions. I also used .10mm to create 2D fans to create texture.

Step 2

After selecting the appropriate extensions, take your shortest length and begin bonding all of the shortest natural lashes. This can take up to 30 minutes to an hour, depending on how quickly you work. This is the most important step in the process. The shorter the extensions you apply, the darker the lash line will appear when the eyes are open.

Step 3

Once you feel you have a solid base of the shortest lengths across the lash line and you are struggling to find more remaining short natural lashes, you can begin applying the medium and long extensions to the longer natural lashes.

During the application process, I recommend going through the set lash-by-lash to fully separate lashes at least 2-3 times. No two extensions or lashes should ever be stuck together.

Step 4

Once you have applied all medium and long lengths, the final step is to go back through the lash line and bond all remaining short natural lashes you can find. Ideally, you will have bonded all lashes possible when the appointment finishes.

Top tip:

If your client requests a cat eye style with longer extensions on the outer corners like in this example, you still need to bond all the short natural lashes in the outer corners with the shortest extensions to fully achieve the eyeliner effect.

Your clients will love the results they get from having a dark lash line that mimics the results of wearing eyeliner. I notice my clients feel more confident and pretty wearing this style of extensions. This technique also produces longerlasting results, which they also appreciate.

Specializing in all things lashes, brows, skincare, and permanent makeup, The Beauty Society is the place to go in the Indianapolis, IN, area. Sasha explained: “We are unique because we put a huge focus on educating our clients and students on maintaining natural lash health while wearing lash extensions long-term through proper aftercare, lash sizing, and placement. We are unique as not only are we a salon servicing guests, but we are also a lash and brow training academy. We are one of Indiana's small handful of IN Department of Health Approved Lash Extension Training Facilities, and we are Indiana's Exclusive Beautiful Brows and Lashes brand Educator.”

While they may once have been thought of as an additional service or an add-on, now they are some of the most popular beauty services. I asked Sasha why she believes these services deserve their own space in the industry. She said: “Salons offering solely lashes and brows have proved to be able to stand on their own and scale tremendously, especially in the last three to five years. Lashes and brows alone create six-figure service providers and seven-figure salons, keeping up with the rest of the hair, nails, and skincare businesses in the industry.”

However, The Beauty Society is not your average beauty salon. I asked Sasha to walk us through the client experience. “What makes us different is that we will not apply lash extensions on a client that the natural lashes cannot handle in a healthy manner; we will not perform microblading on someone whose skin will not heal well but rather opt for powder or nano brows and educate the client on why. This is natural to us as we are a Training Facility for the state as well. We are not a money-grab lash and brow salon like many are, unfortunately. Our guests continue to return to us because they know that we have their best interest in mind and provide continued education to them at a guest level and to our staff and students on a professional level. Our students return to us for multiple training classes due to the high level of support they receive not only during but after class.”

While clients speak highly of The Beauty Society’s welcoming atmosphere and professional vibe of both salons, Sasha explained the two locations are polar opposites when it comes to design. “We have our location in Greenwood, and it is an open-concept lash salon in front with 10 lash beds and then four private rooms in the back for brows, facials, and permanent makeup. Our lash beds are Earthlite Massage tables. We prefer this over lash recliners or a curved lash bed that does not fold up due to the ease of being able to fold these up and store them if ever needed.

“Clean was the vibe when designing this space. Upon entering, you will be greeted with a lot of high gloss white cabinetry and shelving that is contrasted with jet-black leather lash beds and furniture. A pop of shades

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“Our second location is located in a small up-and-coming neighborhood called Bates-Hendricks, currently being revived into a trendy pocket of downtown. This space is like a speakeasy lash lounge almost. You have to know it's there to know that it's there. Located in a renovated historic building, the vibe is much different here than in our other space. This is more intimate and quieter as this space features two lash beds. No high gloss white and acrylic here. You will find exposed brick walls, black cabinetry, and a dark/moody feel. This fits the neighborhood well and also offers a different type of experience to our guests who are looking for something smaller or more intimate than our flagship location.”

Finally, I asked Sasha for her best advice on how to stay on top of the latest brow and lash trends. She said: “PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. I love the lash and brow industry because of how customizable all the looks really are based on the guest. Lashes and brows are not easy. Those that regularly practice a new skill and continue to always learn through inperson and online education no matter where they are at in their career are the ones that excel in this industry.”

Novalash Royal Platinum Bond Lash Extension Adhesive

Royal Platinum Bond is NovaLash’s fastest - drying adhesive and an excellent choice for experienced lash artists. This patented formula is instantly oilproof, waterproof, and extremely durable, giving clients 4 - 8 weeks between infills. novalash.com

Brow Code Professional Stain Hybrid Brow Dye

Designed to achieve richly pigmented and longlasting results like Henna. This offers the power and intensity of henna with the ease of a tint.

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THE LASH & BROW SOCIETY V90 VOLUME TWEEZER

Hand-made and hand-tested, these tweezers are perfect for fan creation and pick up. With a strong grip and beautiful finish. V90 is ideal for both beginner and advanced volume lash artists.

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The Eyebrow Comapny Bold Brow

Rollerball applicator of oils that infuse the eyebrows with nutrients. The goto product for fuller and bold eyebrows.

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