Discover Moray Speyside

Discover

MORAY Speyside

Discover Moray Speyside Moray Speyside Visitor Guide First published in United Kingdom August 2018 Copyright © ANDREW LOVEDAY

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior permission in writing of the author, nor be circulated in writing of any publisher, nor be otherwise circulated in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published without a similar condition including this condition, being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.

The contents of this publication are believed correct at the time of printing. Nevertheless, the publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions.

Assessments of attractions and so forth are based upon the author’s own personal experience and, therefore, descriptions given in this guide necessarily contain an element of subjective opinion which may not dictate a reader’s own experiences on another occasion.

Contents Our Moray

6

Moray Is

7

Moray Was

17

Tour #1

Elgin - Castle to Cathedral to Cashmere

27

Tour #2

Beaches and Wildlife

39

Tour #3

Speyside and Whisky

51

Tour #4

Sea and Farm

61

Moray Outdoors

69

Malt Whisky Trail

77

Moray Legend - MacBeth

83

Travel Facts

91

Our Moray Speyside One of the greatest joys for any resident in Moray is to share with the world our regions beauty and diversity.

Whether you are a long-time resident or a first-time visitor, this Discover Moray Speyside visitor guide has an array of ideas for making the most of what’s on offer – and there really is something for everyone.

Throughout this small and unique part of Scotland, history is brought to vivid and haunting life in the brooding shadows of mighty castles and the alleyways of medieval towns.

The diversity of the towns of Elgin, Forres, Lossiemouth, Buckie, Keith and Dufftown, and the areas in which they are located, ensure that you can choose a destination that fits your needs.

Descriptions feature key historical elements of each place, highlights of annual events and an insider’s view on where to explore.

The visitor guide incorporates our four Best Of experience tours that cover the whole of Moray.

Tour 1 is a short tour of the attractions and history that helped shape today’s Elgin.

Tour 2 takes you North of Elgin and to the wildlife and activities that make the Moray Firth a unique experience destination.

Tour 3 captures the spirit of Moray Speyside as it guides you along the world famous whisky trail. Whatever your taste, there’s something for everyone.

Tour 4 provides you with an insight into the key commercial activities both past and present.

Vibrant colours, sandy beaches and breath-taking views await you – and of course, the best of food and the finest of whisky, to give you renewed purpose.

As you travel around you’ll notice that Moray prides itself on an abundance of locally produced and award-winning food that links the sea, the soil, wildlife, livestock and most of all, its irrepressible people.

Its time to put down your smartphone, forget the stresses of modern-day life and re-connect with your surroundings.

And if it’s the kind of place that you can see yourself relocating to; we’re immensely proud that Moray offers a happier, healthier way of life, with its great outdoors – and it’s also bursting at the seams with history and culture.

This is our Moray Speyside.

Come awa’ in. We know you will enjoy your stay.

MORAY IS

Moray can be whatever the resident or visitor wants it to be – a place of peace and tranquility or somewhere to exercise the spirit of adventure.

Moray One of the smallest regions in Scotland, however, it punches above its weight when it comes to the quality of life, scenery and facilities.

From the mighty peaks of the Cairngorms to the unspoiled coastline of the Moray Firth, Moray is an attractive place with 70 percent of its area being open countryside and 25 percent being made up of woodlands.

Most people live in the 6 main towns of Elgin, Lossiemouth, Forres, Dufftown, Keith and Buckie. The overall population density is below the national average and there is a clear difference between the sparsely populated upland areas to the south and the more populated northern coast with its rich agricultural land, in the Laich of Moray.

The coastal towns in the north such as Buckie and Lossiemouth provide contrast to the main towns of Elgin and Forres and the agriculturally rich Laich.

The Spey Valley, home to the whisky industries and world renowned food processors such as Walkers and Baxters, paves the way to the towns of Keith and Dufftown and the rugged and spectacular highlands of the south, which form part of the Cairngorm mountain range.

Moray retains its own unique identity and one of which it is justifiably proud and for residents and visitors alike, it offers all that is best in Scotland.

Weather The best thing about the weather in Moray is that whatever you write about it will probably be true at some point in the year. And it’s all because Moray enjoys its own special micro-climate.

Whilst Scotland is more generally associated with a wet climate, weather conditions vary considerably across the country with the rainfall concentrated mainly in the West, not the East where Moray lies.

The Grampian Mountains provide shelter from the prevailing south westerly winds which, coupled with the influence of the warming North Atlantic Drift on the coastal waters, has a calming effect on the Moray climate - resulting in it being milder and dryer - and statistically one of the driest locations in the UK. In reality, Moray records less rainfall than the average in England and is drier and sunnier than the average in Scotland In fact, if you are looking for some winter sun, there's more sun in Moray

than in London between November through March.

The common quote of ‘four seasons in one day’ is an exaggeration however, there are certainly plenty of statistical differences in rainfall, sunshine hours and temperature, even within comparatively short distances, because of the varied landscape of hill and laich.

That makes planning for a trip a little more challenging and particularly if it involves hilltops and high forests – sometimes you just have to hope the weather passes over quickly.

That’s the secret of our fast changing weather. It'll change eventually - or sooner.

Scenery The UK’s highest landmass, the Cairngorm Mountains, dominates Moray in many ways. The great glaciers that flowed down from these granite hills during the Ice Age cut their way through the rock, leaving behind a series of river valleys that radiate out from the mountains and flow down to the sea.

The Moray Firth supports the North Sea’s only known resident population of bottlenose dolphins. This small population of about 200 animals ranges throughout the Moray Firth and down the east coast.

With its idyllic seaside villages, beautiful cliff scenery and large sand dunes on the Moray shore, the spectacular Moray Firth is a sight to behold and named one of the world’s most beautiful and unspoiled coastlines by National Geographic Traveller.

The wide variety of landscapes is reflected in the wildlife found in the region. The coast, with its sandstone cliffs is home to countless millions of seabirds and the Moray Firth dolphins, whilst the hills and the high forests are home to deer and birds of prey Whether you are walker, wildlife enthusiast, seeking tranquil beaches, or a visitor simply taking a tour— you will find lots to do in this unique part of Scotland.

From land, groups of these bottlenose dolphins can often be seen breaching close to shore on calm days, with April to September being the best months to see these animals in their natural habitat.

Communities The main towns and the smaller communities have a character all of their own and each plays its part in making Moray such a pleasant and rewarding area to live and to visit.

The seaside towns and villages have much to offer the visitor; traditional buildings, working harbours, and miles of sandy beaches combine to give the area its own unique charm. Inland, the towns and villages by the peaty waters of the River Spey are home to many of Scotland’s most celebrated whisky distilleries.

The coastal towns of Cullen, Portknockie and Findochty, each with strong links to the sea, have a close community feel to them and traditional values remain strong.

Cullen is best known as the home of ‘Cullen skink’ and is an extremely attractive town. Originally built around the mouth of the Burn of Deskford, it has an imposing viaduct that frames the harbour.

Founded in 1677, the village of Portknockie overlooks the Moray Firth and offers a great location to spot dolphins. In the 19th century it was a significant fishing port and the harbor today continues to be busy with private boats.

Findochty is a friendly fishing village in a peaceful and pretty location.

Like its neighbour, an interesting focal point is offered by the bustling atmosphere and abundance of boats at the harbor.

Moving west, the villages of Garmouth, Spey Bay and Kingston are clustered round the estuary of the River Spey and in close proximity to salmon and wildlife.

Today's Garmouth is a charming village that, over time, has developed into a community of attractive cottages and houses arranged around a pattern of streets that have grown organically and arranged apparently at random. The result is a village that contrasts strongly with the many planned settlements of Moray.

The River Spey is one of the most interesting and unpolluted rivers in Britain.

Its fast-flowing, pure water has made it famous for salmon fishing and whisky.

It is also the hub of a network of habitats, supporting a wide range of species that are rare or endangered elsewhere in Europe.

The whole river has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and a Special Area of Conservation (the European equivalent).

The River Spey - and the Speyside Way - finally reach the sea at the small village of Spey Bay on the eastern side of the river mouth. The village now houses the Scottish Whale and Dolphin Centre in the former Tugnet Ice House, by far the largest ice house in Scotland and a reminder of its role as a salmon netting station.

Moving inland, Fochabers is a planned town of great character and is the home of Baxters tinned food processors, a factory and Highland Village visitor attraction that dominates the western approaches. Built by the Duke of Gordon in 1776, the town has a square with church and fountain, a good choice of antique shops and can claim to have one of the most attractive cricket grounds in Scotland, located as it is on the banks of the River Spey.

Maintaining an inland route brings you to Llanbryde and Elgin.

The village of Llanbryde was bypassed by the main A96 in the early 1990’s which significantly reduced the volume of traffic that once cut the village in half. Its curving main street passes between picturesque houses and offers a much more pleasant experience for both the visitor and resident.

Elgin today remains a fine town of great character and has retained, over the centuries, fragments of earlier times as it reworked and rebuilt its townscape.

Narrow alleyways leading off the High Street are part of a medieval street plan that remains visible today and some arcaded merchant houses, from the 18th century, have also survived. The grandest buildings are found on the High Street and the Plainstones where it splits to pass both sides of St Giles' church.

The west front of Elgin Cathedral’s is stunning and, without doubt, one of the finest pieces of architecture in Scotland.

Leaving Elgin and heading north back toward the coast brings the visitor to Lossiemouth.

At one time Lossiemouth was the hub of fishing activity in the area as well as the major port for Elgin and boasts 2 fantastic beaches, a championship golf course and a lighthouse. Home to RAF Lossiemouth, the town has a connection to politics through its famous son Ramsay MacDonald.

Moving west, the coastal villages of Hopeman, Cummingston, Burghead and Findhorn.

Split by a man made harbour, Hopeman has 2 sandy beaches. The east beach is surrounded by large grassy sand dunes, brightly coloured beach huts and large rocky areas with excellent rockpools (the one on the eastern edge is known as Daisy Rock). The west beach is the smaller of the two, however, both offer excellent vantage points for dolphin watching.

Cummingston is sandwiched between the two fishing villages of Hopeman and Burghead.

Where Back Street and Seaview Road join, a lane leads north to a small car park serving the children's play park. A footpath provides onward access down to the beach and connects to the Moray Coastal Trail network.

Burghead is a fishing village that sits at the northeast end of a vast sandy bay that curves all the way to Findhorn. The Burghead visitor centre is located at the head of the cliffs that were once a site for a great pictish capital. It is one of the best vantage points in Moray to spot dolphins.

Findhorn and the surrounding area is one of the most attractive places on the Moray coast with unspoilt golden sandy beaches, pine forests and beautiful coves.

Famous for both a variety of water sports and wildlife, there is something for everyone; relaxing on the glorious beach, visiting the world famous Findhorn community or watching the variety of wildlife in Findhorn Bay— and all in close proximity to refreshments offered at one of Findhorn’s popular pubs or cafés.

Back inland is Forres.

One of Scotland's oldest towns, Forres is arguably the most picturesque.

Like Elgin, Forres also maintains, in part, its medieval street plan and the former market place, in the main street, was the focal point for trade and the central point for all commercial activity in the town.

Forres has a wealth of green spaces, and none more attractive than Grant Park. In fact, the town takes its attractiveness so seriously that it's won several Britain in Bloom and Scotland in Bloom competitions for its beautiful traditional gardens and stunning floral sculptures and they’re just waiting for you to walk around and enjoy.

A scenic route through the Highlands leads to Tomintoul and Dufftown.

Tomintoul is the Highest Village in the Highlands with the stunning landscapes of the Cairngorms National Park and Glenlivet estate on its doorstep.

Tomintoul provides access to the Lecht skiing area, via the A939 to Cockbridge road, and has gained a certain notoriety as it is usually the first road in Scotland to be blocked by snow.

Founded in 1817, Dufftown is a planned town with wide streets which centre on a square and landmark clock tower.

There are no less than five distilleries either in the town or immediately around it which puts Dufftown at the very heart of the whisky trail and is a mecca for enthusiasts.

With its fine clocktower and the ruins of Balvenie Castle it’s a beautiful town in its own right and, additionally, provides access to wide, fast rivers, glens and rolling hills that build up to the majestic Ben Rinnes, that are perfect for outdoor enthusiasts and walkers of all abilities.

According to Harry Potter’s Hermione, Dufftown is "not very far" from Hogwarts Castle.

On from Dufftown to Aberlour and Craigellachie.

Aberlour, or Charlestown of Aberlour, is a large, attractive village that lies along the south east bank of the River Spey.

Its attractive granite stone buildings, decorative parks and gardens and generously wide high street, are framed at either end by the Aberlour Distillery and the world renowned Walker’s Shortbread.

Craigellachie lies at the lower end of beautiful Strathspey. At some 400 feet above sea level, the village is surrounded by hills and woodland of stunning beauty overlooking the River Spey which is spanned by the famous Telford Bridge.

Taking a route south leads to

Keith and then back to Elgin via Rothes.

At the gateway to the Malt Whisky Trail, Keith is a planned town which has three distinct commercial and residential sections: Old Town, the site of the original settlement; Keith which is the main commercial centre and Fife Keith which was originally a separate town built in competition by the Earl of Fife but which, having proved less economically successful, was eventually joined to form one settlement separated now only by the river.

Rothes sits on the west side of the valley floor of the River Spey and it’s no surprise to find that Rothes is home to a number of distilleries and associated industries. One of the ironies of a visit to Rothes is that its distilleries, with the exception of Glen Grant, remain very unobvious.

Whisky For centuries uisge beatha (the Gaelic for ‘water of life’) has been produced in Moray Speyside from the simple ingredients of barley, water and yeast.

There are two main distinctions: malt whisky and grain whisky.

Malt whisky uses only malted barley. Grain whisky may use malted barley and also some other cereals, notably maize.

A single malt is the product of a single distillery, while a blend, as its name suggests, is a blend of malt and grain whiskies – the higher the proportion of malt whisky the better (and in most cases, more expensive) the blend.

The Speyside Malt Whisky Trail takes visitors on a tour of some of the most important centres of whisky production, and the traditional crafts associated with the industry.

Centred on the Speyside region, whisky lovers can visit working and historic distilleries, see the art of the cooper (barrel-maker), and of course get a chance to enjoy some of the finished product with old and new friends .

Events Speyfest This four-day festival of Celtic culture featuring music, song and crafts is held in Fochabers, normally in late July or early August. Organised by a local committee, many of the events take place in marquees pitched on the village playing fields. The festival features performers from home and abroad and has become an annual fixture on the Scottish music scene.

Keith Country Show The Keith Show staged over two days in early August is Moray’s only major agricultural show and dates back to 1872. Held at Seafield Park, it attracts large entries of cattle, sheep and horses and is an important occa-

sion on the local farming community’s calendar.

Away from the Arena, there are a wide variety of trade stands, the food and drink fayre, craft fair and lifestyle marquee. Also, the acclaimed vintage display, truck show, highland dancing, pony club games, massed pipe bands, music and dance stage and the impressive Grand Parade of Livestock.

Keith Music Festival Performers and fans from all over Scotland flock to what has become known simply as the Keith Festival – a three-day celebration of Scottish traditional music and song. Hotels, pubs and local halls host ceilidhs, concerts and competitions during the event, which has been held every June for the past quarter of a century.

Whisky Festival Aficionados of Scotland’s national drink make the annual pilgrimage to the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival which takes place in May. A packed programme of events spans several days and includes distillery tours, whisky tastings, talks, theme dinners, ceilidhs and visits to places of interest.

Burning of The Clavie On January 11 the people of Burghead celebrate the Pictish New Year with the Burning of the Clavie, an ancient fire ceremony which, according to tradition, wards off evil spirits for the year ahead.

A barrel filled with burning tar is carried through the streets of the town, with smouldering embers handed out as a token of good luck.

Highland Games Four of Moray’s communities stage their own annual Highland Games in the summer – Dufftown, Tomintoul, Aberlour and Forres.

Featuring a mixture of track and field events, the emphasis is on the traditional competitions such as tossing the caber. The games are particularly popular with visitors to the area and their participation in the various competitions is encouraged.

Highland Games today are devoted to preserving and promoting Scottish Culture at its best, very often being the main highlight and focus of community life.

Dufftown Highland Games features the heavy events; hammers, shot, weights for distance and height and caber. It also features one of the best, hardest and strongly competed hill races in Scotland. The Games are as much about music and dancing as they are about sports.

There is also a competitive element here too and the Dufftown Games is a Massed Band Event.

Historically, the clan chieftains pitted their pipers against those of other clans and the prestige that came from success was considerable.

The competitive element is a major attraction in its own right but when combined with the spectacle of Highland dancers and pipers and the colour and grandeur of the Scottish scenery which forms their backdrop, the Dufftown Highland Games become a must on any itinerary.

Gordon Castle Highland and Country Fair An action packed programme of music, furry and feathered friends, traditional events, country pursuits, children’s entertainment and activities and a huge range of trade stands.

The Games are held in front of the picturesque Castle Tower in the well established and enlarged Highland Games Arena. Sited in front of the Castle, visitors are able to sit in comfort and enjoy the heavy eventers battling it out to win those traditional and much loved events such as Tossing the Caber, Shot Put and Hammer.

Elgin Food & Drink Festival This foodie festival spills out into the streets surrounding the city centre with copious market stalls laden with produce from Moray and beyond.

This is complimented by a craft market where you can browse for hand make, unique and unusual gifts and crafts. There are exciting cookery demonstrations using locally available produce, to give you ideas and inspiration.

To make sure everyone is catered for there are children's activities and entertainment on offer. While you are visiting you may also wish to browse the wide range of exciting and unique shops located around the City.

MORAY WAS

Moray can be whatever the resident or visitor wants it to be – a place of peace and tranquility or somewhere to exercise the spirit of adventure.

Prehistoric Moray Differentiating the various periods of early human history in Moray is a complex task.

As a broad overview, the retreat of the ice marked the end of the Paleolithic, and the adoption of farming the end of the Mesolithic. The Neolithic period lasted until metalworking commenced.

Evidence also indicates that these events may have begun at different times in different parts of both Scotland and Moray.

The timelines and specific activities between the Neolithic and the later periods are not clear cut.

Based on the finding of flint arrowheads, it’s reasonable to assume that prehistoric man visited or inhabited the area prior to about 2000BC. At these early times the lands were covered by the great ‘Atlantic Forest’.

Extensive pine forests would have covered the hills, which changed to oak and beech woods as the altitude decreased to the lower lands that bordered onto the swampy coastline of the estuaries of the Spey, Findhorn, and the Lossie. The lands of Covesea and Roseisle were separated from the mainland by a sea loch later known as the Loch of Spynie.

Bronze and Iron Age From the commencement of the Bronze Age to about 2000 BC the archaeological record shows a decline in the number of large new stone buildings constructed and that at this time woodland increased at the expense of the area under cultivation. This would indicate a decline in population.

Bronze and Iron Age metalworking was slowly introduced to Scotland and Moray from Europe over a lengthy period.

Scotland's population and, by association, the population of Moray grew in the second millennium BC as the Bronze Age developed.

As the Iron Age emerged from the preceding Bronze Age, there was also the emergence of a Celtic culture in Scotland and Moray at around the 1st millennium BC. The nature of the residents and their immediate predecessors remains unknown.

Dating from 800BC to AD300, the remains of substantial stone buildings from early Iron Age have been identified throughout Scotland and particularly in the North.

Whilst some sites are no more than piles of rubble, impressive towers and outbuildings do remain with the grandest having been created around the 2nd century BC. The circular broch towers are the most massive constructions from this time.

Often referred to as Atlantic Roundhouses, there is evidence that the early peoples of the Iron Age built Roundhouses in Moray.

Roman Moray Moray had been inhabited for thousands of years before the Romans arrived. However, the first reference of Moray in writing was recorded in the Greco-Roman period.

The work On the Ocean by Aristotle mentions two "very large" islands called Albion (Great Britain) and Ierne (Ireland). The Greek explorer and geographer Pytheas visited Britain sometime between 322 and 285 BC and may have circumnavigated the mainland, which he describes as being triangular in shape.

Originals of On the Ocean do not survive, but copies are known to have existed in the 1st century so at the least a rudimentary knowledge of the geography of north Britain would have been available to Roman military intelligence.

Julius Agricola, the Roman governor of Britain, invaded Scotland in 79/80 AD and established fortifications on a line between the rivers Clyde and Forth before invading northern Scotland in 83 AD. Ptolemy identified 18 tribes in Scotland. Whilst contemporary accounts from the Agricolan invasion would have been his main source of information, it’s also likely that he drew on earlier sources of information.

He identifies the tribes in Moray as Vacomagi and Caledonij.

The tribes were brought together by the arrival, and the threat, of the greatest military force the ancient world had ever seen. A threat that they would face and fight under the one banner of the Caledonians.

In Moray, Ptolemy identifies a roman military station at Tuessis which was located near the present Gordon Castle to cover a ford on the river Tuessis (Spey).

There are remains of an encampment a mile north of Castle Gordon that have every appearance of being Roman.

Ptolemey also mentions Ptoroton Stratopedon, or Castra Alta, on the Sinus Varius (Moray Firth) which, from its relative position to Tuellis, has to be present day Burghead or Lossiemouth.

By the Iron Age the cooling climate had put an end to any thoughts of habitation at the higher levels.

The higher ridges of land in the Laich of Moray, however, may have proved ideal for a primitive form of agriculture and animal husbandry.

The earliest permanent settlements may well, therefore, have formed along these ridges, such as at Birnie and Alves.

Richard of Cirencester, a monk of Westminster in the reign of Edward III, made the history of Britain the object of his studies. He drew upon Roman sources in identifying Roman stations at Banatia to the west of Ptoroton and at Varis (present day Forres).

There is a question mark as to whether Richard of Cirencester actually existed. That said, the sources used for the resultant De Situ Britannia are considered sound.

Roman marching camps have been identified at Auchinhove and Muiryfold, a hoard of Roman coins was found at Birnie and there is evidence of a marching camp at Longmorn.

In the summer of 84, Agricola, after sending the fleet ahead to raid the coast for supplies, and having established a series of temporary camps along the way, met Calgacus and the Caledonians in what is known as the battle of Mons Graupius.

The Romans recorded a significant victory.

In the wake of defeat and as the winter drew in, the Caledonians must have feared for their future.

However, Rome was facing a more pressing military crisis on the Rhine front and Roman politics intervened. The Emperor Domition ordered Agricola back to Rome and the legions withdrew south.

In 208, the Roman emperor himself, Septimus Severus, was forced to come to Scotland to quell constant guerrilla attacks.

The first Pictish settlements would have been quite small, often no more than three or four extended family groups, thriving on a mixture of subsistence agriculture and a hunter-gatherer economy.

There were few routes of communication in the area at this time as Moray was an area of forest tracks and dryways across the marshland.

However, the the shallowwaters of the coast would have made the sea and the rivers an effective means of communication between the settlements.

He also pushed as far north as Moray but failed to win any battles and, on his death, his son Caracalla made a grudged peace with the tribes and retreated back south.

The Caledonians could not easily beat the Romans in battle, but they caused them enough trouble to ensure that Scotland and Moray never really became part of the empire.

The Picts The intermittent Roman presence in Moray coincided with the emergence of the Picts. They are often assumed to have been the descendants of the Caledonians though the evidence for this connection is circumstantial and the name by which the Picts called themselves is unknown.

The Pictish relationship with Rome appears to have been less overtly hostile than their Caledonian predecessors, at least in the beginning.

There were no pitched battles and conflict was generally limited to raiding parties from both sides of the frontier until immediately prior to and after the Roman retreat from Britannia.

Everyone has heard of the Picts but we know little about them. They left no written language and the only records are their carved stones.

They were a warrior people led by powerful kings and lords. They became Christianised and disappeared around 900 AD. The Vikings were responsible for wiping out many of the Pictish nobility in battle in 839.

The Picts came under the control of Cinead (Kenneth) MacAlpin, a Gaelic king from Dál Riata (The Scotti). He brought together the different tribes into a new kingdom of Alba which eventually became Scotland.

There is much surviving evidence for the Picts in Moray.

The two important ecclesiastical sites at Birnie and Kinnedar, thirteen symbol stones and the six surviving bull stones from Burghead form the more visible evidence.

Sueno’s stone is by far the most impressive symbol stone and possibly a cenotaph.

In addition there are several forts and 13 probable burial sites.

The sheer size of the fort at Burghead indicates that it was a Pictish royal site and likely to have been the Pictish capital. It is the largest fortified site in early historic Scotland.

The Vikings The Vikings arrived on Scottish shores around 800 AD, first as raiders, and then later as settlers. In 893 the Norwegians waged a major offensive in Scotland in which "the flower of the Pictish nobility was destroyed".

It was in the aftermath of this attack that Kenneth MacAlpin, King of Scottish Dalriada, found opportunity to unify the remaining Scots and Pictish peoples.

At around the same time, Halfdan broke away from the Great Norwegian Army to attack eastern Scotland and Viking raiders, based in the Orkneys, raided into the Moray Firth.

In the 11th century the Norwegian general Helgy attacked and captured Burghead as part of the campaign to establish settlement of Moray.

It is Helgy, according to Torfeus’ history of the Orkneys that founded Helgyn or Elgyn.

In 1010 Malcolm II defeated the Norwegians in the Battle of Mortlach at Dufftown.

The men of Moray continued to stand fast against raiders until the emergence of the Kingdom of Scotland and its 13th century expansion to the west resulted in the 1266 Treaty of Perth and the Hebrides and Mann were yielded to the Kingdom of Scotland.

In 1468, Orkney was pledged by the King of Norway as security against the payment of the dowry of his daughter.

Dark and Middle Ages In 1032 Mac Bethad mac Findláich (Macbeth) was elected Mormaer of Moray.

Macbeth, engaged and defeated in battle, King Duncan I at Pitgaveney (then called Bothnagowan) near Elgin in 1040.

He was crowned King of High Scotland at Scone.

Macbeth himself was in turn killed and defeated in 1057. His stepson Lulach claimed the Scottish throne briefly before being himself killed in 1058.

The last ruling 'king' or 'earl' of Moray, was Óengus (Angus) son of the daughter of Lulach. Óengus (Angus) challenged David I of Scotland in battle, but was defeated and killed at Stracathro in Angus, in 1130.

King David I was determined, after the battle of Stracathro, to subdue and ultimately destroy the Kingdom of Moray.

He founded the priory at Urquart, Royal castles and burghs were established at Forres and Elgin and a castle at Auchindoun.

As part of the suppression, he granted land in Moray to Freskin, Lord of Strathbrock, a Flemish Knight and immigrant.

Duffus castle was built by Freskin in 1140.

Birnie Kirk was built the same year and was the seat of the Bishop of Moray.

The Abbey at Kinloss was founded in 1141 and confirmed by a papal bull in 1174.

The Bishops Palace at Spynie was built at around 1222 and Kinneddar Castle (a second Bishops Palace) was also built at Kinnedar in 1280.

In 1224 the foundation stone for Elgin Cathedral was ceremoniously laid and effectively became the seat of the Bishop of Moray.

Adjacent to the castle grounds at Kinneddar stood the ancient Kirk of Kinneddar which became the second cathedral of Moray following the

move of the bishop's seat from Birnie to Elgin.

The priory at Pluscarden was founded in 1230 by King Alexander II. King David I of Scotland's suppression of the Kingdom of Moray in 1130 did not mark the end of the province's significance or of the problems its management caused to the kings of Scotland.

Despite the end of its line of rulers, Moray continued to be referred to in the early 13th century as a land separate to Scotia.

The houses of the town dwellers were built of a timber frame, with wattle and daub infill, and thatched roofs, the floors being of beaten earth or clay.

Even when the realm of Scotland was recognised as stretching as far north as Caithness, Moray was still recognised as one of the chief northern provinces.

The rural dwellers had ‘cottages’, often little more than huts, with rough stone or even turf walls, and a heather thatch on the roof.

The demise of Alexander III in 1285 led to a time of Scottish revolt and punitive attacks by King Edward. Led by William Wallace and Andrew de Moray in 1297, the First War of Scottish Independence was followed by outbreaks of plague which led to a substantial depopulation of Moray in both the Burghs and the rural areas.

Except for the very wealthy, windows were almost unheard of at this time, although some building had apertures closed by shutters.

During the 14th century the Loch of Spynie began to silt up, eventually

robbing Elgin of its harbour at Spynie, however, the ports of Garmouth and Findhorn continued to play a major role in the economy of the area. In 1393 the port of Garmouth became the principal port for Elgin.

Royal authority over the whole of mainland Scotland was finally reestablished with the crowning of King James I, and the early 15th century generally saw peace return to Moray.

The 16th century was a time of exploration, and the beginning of the decline of the ignorant and superstitious Middle Ages. It was also a period when the clergy were becoming more powerful and acquiring more and more land.

The Burghs continued to grow, and populations increased. The tollbooth became the centre for the collection of taxes, the seat of local government, the court, prison, and sometime even a place of execution.

Reformation, Civil war and Rebellion The Reformation in Scotland was a complex social process, nevertheless, it is quite clear that, by the end of the 16th century, the established church was held in general contempt.

1694 saw the start of what was to become known as the “The seven ill years”.

For the next seven years the climate showed a marked deterioration, which was probably due to volcanic activity in Iceland and the consequent dust clouds in the atmosphere.

The crops failed totally for four years out of these seven.

Many of the rural poor came to the Burghs to search for food, of which there was very little, and they only added to the toll of poor people who were often found dead, or dying of starvation, in the streets.

It is possible that some quarter to a third of the population succumbed to the effects of starvation or the associated illnesses.

Prior to the suppression of Roman Catholicism in the middle of the 16th century, the bishops of Moray occupied a position of power in both Moray and Scotland and most combined the functions of a politician with those of the cleric to their own personal advantage, and not always in the interests of their diocese.

With few exceptions they belonged to the great governing families either of the district or of the realm. Representatives of the Douglases, Inneses, Dunbars, Hepburns, and others are to be found among them. The register of the diocese also includes the name of four Stewarts who were either allied to or offshoots from the royal family of Scotland.

The change from Roman Catholicism to Protestantism in Moray passed with none of the friction which might have been expected in a district which owed so much in the way of material advantage to the old religion.

In 1589 James VI. seized the opportunity to convert the bishopric into a temporal lordship.

The bishopric of Moray lasted 581 years in all and during that period its influence upon the district had been broadly good. Moray owes almost everything from the growth of its towns, and its position as a cathedral city, to progress and developments made in the same period and a period that remains part of its proudest inheritance.

From 1644–1645 a Scottish civil war was fought between Scottish Royalists—supporters of Charles I under James Graham, 1st Marquis of Montrose—and the Covenanters, who were allied to the English Parliament and had controlled Scotland since 1639.

The Scottish Royalists, aided by Irish troops, had a rapid series of victories in 1644–45, but were eventually defeated by the Covenanters.

The Covenanters then found themselves at odds with the English Parliament, in response they crowned Charles II at Scone and stated their intention to place him on the thrones of England and Ireland as well.

Charles II landed from Holland at Garmouth at the mouth of the River Spey, on 3rd July 1650. The actual spot at which the king was set ashore is now part of the village of Kingston.

This led to the Third English Civil War, when Scotland and Moray was invaded and occupied by the Parliamentarian New Model Army under Oliver Cromwell.

On the 23rd July 1745, Charles Edward (Bonnie Prince Charlie) landed in the Hebrides after a long and tedious voyage of over a month.

His arrival did little to shake the loyalty of Moray. A Jacobite party was formed, but it included few men of note within the district. The magistrates of the burghs, the ministers of religion, and all who had any stake within the county, with very few exceptions, remained faithful to the

Government.

The failure of the Rising was practically assured by the Jacobite retreat from Derby (5th December 1745).

On the 18th February 1746 the Prince was at Castlehill, Inverness.

On the 9th of March 1746, the Prince marched eastward into Moray, where he spent eleven days. For most of the time he stayed in Elgin, and paid a short visit to Gordon Castle before returning to Inverness.

The Industrial Revolution and Empire Whilst Moray was little affected by the industrial revolution of the 18th and 19th century, the craze for improvement that swept through Scotland during the later 18th century was to leave its mark.

The countryside was redesigned, encompassing the fertile farmland of the coastal Laich of Moray, to the rugged highland whisky country of Strathspey. Lochs were drained and bogs reclaimed. Fieldscapes were replanned, new crops were sown and new farming traditions took hold.

The state of the towns continued to raise concern, and various plans were put into action to remove the dung-heaps from the main streets and generally to tidy up the towns and villages.

At the same time, a Great Rebuilding was implemented and shaped to a neo classical template .

Elgin in particular was transformed, with the High Street the focus for many of its grandest buildings.

The St Giles church was built in the neo classical style in 1825 and the Elgin Museum was built in 1842. Both symbols of the fine new buildings that made Elgin a City worth visiting.

Knockando Woolmill was listed in parish records in 1774 and still uses some of machinery dating from 1870.

Johnstons of Elgin was established in 1797 and the same mill continues to produce the cashmere garments sold today.

Craigellachie Bridge was built by Thomas Telford in 1814 as part of his Highland Roads and Bridges commission.

Dr Gray’s Hospital was built in 1819 from money bequeathed by Dr Alexander Gray who made his fortune in India.

George Alexander Anderson bequeathed the money to found The Institution for the Support of Old Age and Education of Youth in 1831.

Baxters was founded in 1868 with a grocers shop in Fochabers and Walkers was founded in 1898 with the opening of a village bakery in Aberlour.

Gas lights were introduced in the 1830’s, the arrival of the railways did much to promote tourism and stimulate the local fishing industry, and agriculture was becoming extremely profitable with the facility to now ‘export’ produce by rail.

A wealth of information abut Moray can be found at the Local Heritage Centre and Elgin Museum.

TOUR #1

Castle to Cathedral to Cashmere

Elgin was first documented in the Cartulary of Moray in 1190 after David I raised Elgin to the status of a Royal Burgh in 1130.

Elgin The administrative and commercial capital of Moray and a town steeped in history.

Elgin was founded in early medieval times, its small, steep, green hill providing a natural fortress.

Elgin was a town with a population of less than 4,000 at the beginning of the nineteenth century and largely confined to three parallel lines of streets.

Fortunes made abroad, the arrival of the railway, and economic growth in the Victorian period transformed Elgin to a town with a population now in excess of 20,000.

For much of recorded history Elgin was isolated from the rest of Scotland by the Cairngorms to the south and protected by two rivers, the Spey and the Findhorn.

By the 17th century Elgin boasted many fine buildings and reflecting the prosperity of its merchants and craftsmen. During the 19th century Elgin reinvented itself as a grand neo-classical city backed by a number of new industries, and especially the distilling of whisky.

This part of the guide follows the Castle to Cathedral to Cashmere Heritage Experience trail which brings over 1000 years of history to life through various modern media.

The Heritage Experience is the result of the collective working of more than 17 organisations and their volunteers, with a wide range of experience and knowledge of Elgin.

The tour will take you from the site of the former castle at Elgin to the Cathedral, via the medieval High Street, and on to the mill at Johnstons of Elgin.

Castle In 1040, MacBeth mortally wounded King Duncan I, near Elgin, at Pitgaveny. Ladyhill is believed to have been the site of a defensive structure used by Duncan I as a garrison before the battle and, ultimately, where he returned to die of his wounds.

A castle was built on Ladyhill during the reign of David I and a symbol of the Royal Burgh status that David I had granted Elgin. It was from the Chapel of Our Lady, attached to the castle, that Ladyhill takes its name.

David I built royal castles to exert control and rule over medieval Scotland. The wild terrain of medieval Moray was a particular challenge and Elgin Castle with its commanding outlook made an ideal fortress The stone castle which replaced earlier timber and earth buildings was a place of prestige and power.

Elgin’s increasing prestige with Scottish monarchs

is captured in the Charter of Malcolm IV, in 1160, which makes specific reference to a Royal castle on Ladyhill.

As part of his tour of suppression in 1296, Edward I of England, the “Hammer of the Scots”, reported that he was impressed by the castle.

In the journal of his stay, which is held in the British Library, he records that Elgin is a good castle and good town – “bon chastell et bonne ville”.

Robert the Bruce retook Scotland in 1308 after Edward’s death in 1307.

In his determination to eliminate any opportunity for the English to maintain a foothold in Scotland, he slighted Scottish castles and finally succeeded at Elgin on his third attempt.

The opportunity to hunt for stags, goats and wild boar in the nearby forests, in the centuries that followed, remained attractive to the kings and queens of Scotland. In the absence of a Royal castle at Elgin, the royal parties stayed at Thunderton House, Duffus castle or Gordon castle.

The castle, having outlived its usefulness, fell into decay and was demolished in the 16th century. The stone would have been recycled for local town development.

Erected in 1839, and believed to be the spot where George, the last Duke of Gordon, proposed to his wife to be, Elizabeth Brodie, the central feature now on Ladyhill is the 80ft high Duke of Gordon monument.

Ladyhill is a prominent viewpoint and provides an excellent opportunity to view the well preserved medieval street plan of Elgin.

Medieval High Street The citizens or burgesses of Elgin were granted special rights by the king (Royal Burgh) and enjoyed many trading privileges in the area.

The town distinguished itself from the villages and countryside by the demarcation of its limits.

A toll would have been paid to enter medieval Elgin through one of four ‘ports’ or town gates and all items brought into the town, for sale, were taxed.

On passing through the town gate, the visitor would have been presented with a single street settlement with timber houses built gable to gable along the High Street.

A tolbooth or town house was the main municipal building of a Scottish burgh, from medieval times until the 19th century.

The tolbooth usually provided a council meeting chamber, a court house and a

jail.

The tolbooth was one of

three essential features in a Scottish burgh, along with the mercat cross and the kirk (church).

At the side of each house was an archway or ‘pend’ which led through to the burbage plots or ‘tofts’. The pend could be closed at night with a vett, a heavy gate to keep out intruders.

The burgage plots, or tofts, were the portions of land which the burgesses were allocated alongside their dwellings. Here they sank their wells, dug their midden pits, reared animals, grew vegetables, and housed their workshops. Dykes (dry stone wall) at the end of each plot formed a boundary to the burgh.

The dwellings and tofts would have formed the classic herringbone pattern of medieval burgage plots running back from the main street frontage.

As the population of Elgin grew, people began to build down the west side of each toft, forming closes at right angles to the High Street.

There could be 8 –10 houses down each close, each accommodating several families.

Each close had a privy (toilet), a midden and sometimes a pigsty at the bottom end, along with an open drain flowing to the High Street.

A Day In The Life The day officially began with the town drummer at 4 am or 5 am.

The town drummer would make his way up and down the closes in the morning to get people up to go and work in the factories – the tanneries and woollen mills. It was also a signal that the night watchman’s duty was at an end and that first mass of the day would be observed.

Most shops opened at 6 am, providing plenty of early morning shopping before the first meal of the day at 9 or 10 am.

Sanitation was an ongoing concern. Open drain channels ran down the centre of streets or along the sides. Many stables opened out onto the streets and dung heaps encroached on the main passage. People often threw dirty water out of windows in the general direction of the drains.

Each individual householder was charged with keeping the space in front of their house relatively clean. In practice the only real incentive to do so was an outbreak of the plague or a visit of the King.

Pigs were another nuisance in the streets.

Whilst pigs were cheap, and a good source of food, most houses were small and gardens even smaller, so pigs were often let out into the streets to forage.

Stray pigs were such a nuisance that they were liable to be killed and the owner charged for the return of the dead animal.

Elgin was said to be a town which ‘in filthiness exceeded all the towns of the north east’.

The north side of the High Street alone had 54 dung heaps and 12 pigsties. To avoid the mess, pedestrians used stepping stones ----– a row of huge blocks, known as the ‘croon’ or crown which ran down the centre of the High Street.

In 1820 in a big clean-up operation, these stones were removed and the open sewers and drains covered over.

Provost Innes boasted that he had ‘paved the streets with 1,000 guineas’ – the cost of the improvements.

If a "hue and cry" was raised to chase a criminal, all citizens had to join in or risk being fined.

For the criminal, the penalty was much higher. A thief found in possession of stolen goods was hanged.

Due to closely packed wooden houses and inadequate water supply, fire was the constant fear. Fires were difficult to control and could produce widespread damage.

Due to fire risk, each householder was required to keep a full vessel of water outside his door in summer. At the point that a fire was discovered, it was every citizen's duty to come running with whatever equipment they had. Often firehooks were used to haul burning thatch off a roof, and to pull down adjacent buildings to provide a firebreak.

Morning was the active time for markets. Things quieted down after noon, and most shops closed at 3 o'clock. Some kept open until light faded, and others, such as the barbers and blacksmiths, were open until the town drummer signalled curfew.

Foreign merchants were heavily regulated. They had to wait two or more hours before they could enter the market, giving the locals the best of the business.

To keep the peace, curfews were imposed in the town. The church bells would be rung at 8 or 9 pm to indicate that it was time for brewers, smiths and taverners to cease their working day.

Billing observed: When the wanderer has entered the town itself, he will find himself surrounded by objects that might occupy his pencil or his pen for weeks.

Besides the grand mass of the Cathedral, and the clustered castellated remains of its Close, every street and turning presents some curious quaint architectural peculiarity, from the graceful gothic arches of the Maison Dieu to the old grey burgher’s house, sticking its narrow crow stepped gable, and all its fantastic, irregular, blinking little windows, in to the center of the street.

The town drummer would again make his way up and down the closes to reinforce the message that the curfew was in place.

The town gates would be closed and a watch would patrol the streets looking for thieves. It became the custom that anyone out after curfew had to have a good excuse and carry a light and the carrying of weapons was carefully regulated, especially where foreigners were concerned.

Nobility, as was usual, were not required to observe the regulations.

Todays High Street Elgin High Street is now pedestrianised, however, it still provides a glimpse into a time when it was the main thoroughfare for commercial and medieval traffic.

Narrow wynds or closes run off the High Street and it’s these closes that linked the three parallel lines of streets that ran from the castle to the cathedral.

There were around 200 closes packed into a small area, and perhaps 30 families living in each one. The better houses were nearer the street, and all windows faced east to allow some sort of privacy.

Each close had its own social life, tradition and character. Some were named after the families who lived there, while others took their names from the occupations carried out along them, such as the Glovers’ Close.

Batchen Lane (190 High Street) Explore this modern lane running between the High Street and South Street and discover its historic past.

Batchen Lane was named after auctioneer John Batchen who demolished much of Thunderton House to make way for the lane in 1800.

Thunderton House dates back to the 16th century and was once one of the finest historic buildings in Elgin.

With its own gardens, bowling green and orchards, it was a grand residence and, after the Royal Castle on Ladyhill was slighted and demolished, it became the official Royal Residence and Palace of the early Scottish kings.

Prince Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) spent 11 days at the house in March 1746 before returning to Inverness to await the arrival of the king’s army at Culloden.

Although greatly altered, Thunderton House remains the oldest house in the High Street.

High Street/North Street The corner where the High Street meets North Street looked very different in the 19th century. Modern buildings have replaced the grand Assembly Rooms which stood on this spot from 1822 and included a magnificent ballroom.

The North of Scotland Bank was built next door in 1857, replacing the earlier Drummuir House. During the 19th century banking became increasingly important to Elgin’s economy, and the building on the opposite corner was also originally a bank.

Along North Street you’ll find Holy Trinity Episcopal Church. It was built in 1824 to a design by William Robertson, who was also the architect of the Elgin Court House.

Newmarket Close (130 High Street) The graveyard of St Giles church was, through the early centuries, the central location for Elgin’s weekly market.

A more spacious market area for traders was created when the Plainstones were laid out in 1787, however, it wasn’t until 1851 that, with the building of the New Market, traders had the benefit of a covered market.

The market buildings stretched all the way to South Street and included a theatre which attracted touring and local companies.

The arches between the pillars in this close are bricked up, but they once housed the stalls of the New Market.

The Heart of the High Street At the heart of Elgin High Street are the Plainstones and St Giles church.

There has been a church dedicated to St Giles on the site for more than 800 years. The graceful new St Giles Church which you can see today opened in 1827, a symbol of Elgin’s new prosperity and self-confidence and now regarded as one of the finest neoclassical buildings in Scotland.

Even before the first church stood on the Plainstones a Pictish stone dominated the site, marking it out as a special place.

The elegant fountain in front of the church has been erected on the site of the old tolbooth and the Great War memorial, nearby, was unveiled in 1921.

Every town had its mercat cross, erected at the heart of the market place. It served as a meeting place, a place for public announcements or to celebrate important events.

Elgin’s cross is first mentioned in 1365, and may have originally stood in St Giles kirkyard where the markets were held.

In 1792 the Muckle Cross was dismantled. The lion from the top – thought to date from around 1630 – was preserved. The cross that is in place today was erected in 1888, said to be a replica of the medieval

cross, and the original lion was placed on the top.

The Dandy Lion sculpture by Vik Quickly is a 7ft colourful sculpture of a lovable character that is a play on words representing different elements of Elgin’s past and is a ‘must see’ for all.

Still on the plainstones, just behind the Muckle Cross, is the sculpture of the town drummer.

There is also a mounting block, or a ‘loupin’-on stane’, used to make it easier to mount horses. It was also the milestone from which all local distances were measured.

St Giles Shopping Centre (117 High Street) The entrance to St Giles’ Shopping Centre was once the site of the manse for the minister of St Giles Church. The elegant stonework, on this stretch of Edwardian shop fronts, has remained largely intact at higher levels.

Palace Buildings (108 High Street) This stretch of the High Street once offered rest and refreshment for travellers in a range of inns and hotels. The Plough Inn stood on this site for many years and had stables on South Back Gait (now South Street).

The Palace Hotel was built in its place in the 1880s, incorporating some beams from the old Plough Inn. It didn’t last long as a hotel, but the building remains and is now known as Palace Buildings.

Tower Hotel (101 High Street) Tower Hotel was possibly a 17th century stone defensible town lodging, founded by Andrew Leslie of Glen of Rothes and may have been a house of the Knights of St John., In the mid 19th century, Dr Mackay remodelled the house and all that remains is a three storey rubble built circular tower of 1634..

Red Lion Inn and Close (42-46 High Street) The building at 42-46 High Street was the Red Lion Inn in the 18th century. The Inn that Dr Johnson reported having received his only poor meal in Scotland.

Red Lion close led to the stables.

Masonic Building and Close (15-17 High Street) Behind the Masonic Building, 15-17 High Street, is Masonic Close and a great example of the blending of the new with the old by the former Elgin Town Council.

Bracos House and Close (7 High Street) The carefully preserved merchants house at Number 7, High Street was built in 1694 and banking House of William Duff of Dipple and Braco from 1702 to 1722. The building shows influence from abroad with its arcades, or piazzas, of open arches.

Braco’s close has retained its historic buildings and cobbled street surface.

Sheriff Court A B-listed building, built in 1864 – 1866, in the elegant neoclassicism

style. The inside is remarkably unaltered and the parapet was originally decorated with 10 urns.

Elgin Museum The institutional buildings tended to gather at the east end of the High Street. Elgin Museum was founded in the 19th century and the Alisted building is still going strong today.

The museum is the oldest continuously independent museum in Scotland and was opened in 1843, initially to provide a home for the numerous remarkable fossils discovered in the local sandstone quarries.

The Little Cross The first Little Cross was erected as part of a penance by Alexander Macdonald of the Isles in 1402.

It marked the limits of the Sanctuary of the Cathedral and was also a place of punishment where ’jougs’ and ’stocks’ were situated.

The Little Cross of 1733 and the Muckle Cross are symbols of a medieval High Street that widens to a cobbled market place. The present Muckle Cross dates to 1888, however, there was a cross as early as 1365.

“A very agreeable place to live in” is the quote attributed to Daniel Defoe when he referenced his visit to Elgin.

If Defoe were to visit Elgin today, he would likely note that the well preserved medieval street plan and fine buildings, that characterise Elgin High Street, have endured and that his observation remains true today.

Cathedral In 1224, the foundation stone of the new Elgin Cathedral was ceremoniously laid. Now standing as one of the most glorious ruins in Scotland, “the lantern of the North”, remains a must see attraction in Moray.

Chambers in his Picture of Scotland made the following observation: It is an allowed Fact, which the (Cathedral) ruins seem still to attest, that this was by far the most splendid specimen of ecclesiastical architecture in Scotland, the abbey church of Melrose not excepted. It must be acknowledged that the edifice last mentioned is a wonderful instance of symmetry and elaborate decoration; yet in extent, in loftiness, in impressive magnificence, and even in minute decoration, Elgin has been manifestly superior. Enough still remains to impress the solitary traveller with a sense of admiration mixed with astonishment.

The estates of the Bishopic in Moray, along with the patronages of the Bishop, were sold, after the Reformation, by King James VI. He assigned them to Alexander Lindesay, a son of the Earl of Crawford, for a payment of 10,000 gold crowns and a sum that Alexander had lent the King when in Denmark.

Elgin Cathedral was a simple cruciform building, but after it was damaged by fire in 1270 the choir doubled in length and a Chapter House was built.

In 1390, the “Wolf Of Badenoch”, son of King Robert II, burned the Cathedral and the towns of Elgin and Forres after being excommunicated by the Bishop of Moray. The resultant repairs included the rebuilding of the central tower and the Chapter House.

After the Reformation in 1560, the Cathedral was effectively redundant.

The lead was stripped from the roofs in 1567 and the choir roof collapsed in 1637. In 1711, the central tower collapsed, destroying the North transept.

Whilst much of the Cathedral has crumbled away, the main 13th century construction still remains.

The massive West towers provide an imposing entrance for visitors and invites further exploration of the tombs and effigies in the choir chapel.

The 15th century octagonal Chapter House with its large traceried windows is, with the exception of the monastic Chapter House at Incholm Abbey, unique in Scotland and compliments the external wall of the South transept from the original build.

Bishops House Large cathedrals such as Elgin had many chapel altars and daily services and required an ongoing supply of canons assisted by a number of qualified chaplains and vicars.

Bishop Bricius's chapter (1203) of eight clerics consisted of the dean, precentor, treasurer, chancellor, archdeacon and three ordinary canons.

By 1390, the number of clerics increased to 18.

A chanonry with a substantial wall, over 3.5 metres high, 2 metres thick and around 820 metres in length, enclosed the cathedral and manses and separated the church community from the laity.

The surviving Panns Port illustrates the portcullis defences of the gate-houses and was one of four gatehouses incorporated within the chanonry wall.

What is clear, is that chanonry was a fortified structure allowing the bishops, canons and guests the opportunity to practise freely within it’s walled structure.

In 1390, however, the charnory defences proved ineffective when the burning of the cathedral, by the “Wolf of Badenoch”, included 18 manses of the resident canons.

In 1489 the cathedral records show a chanonry still lacking many of its manses. The chapter ordered that 13 canons, including the precentor, should immediately "erect, construct, build, and duly repair” their manses.

The Manse of the Precentor, and now historically recorded as the “Bishop’s House”, is now partially ruined and dated 1557.

Remains of the Dean's Manse and the Archdeacon's Manse are now part of private buildings.

Biblical Garden The creation of the garden, the first of its kind in Scotland, is particularly appropriate, as Moray has, for over fourteen centuries, played an important role in the development and changing fortunes of the church.

The biblical garden is a themed garden, 3 acres in size and adjacent to the cathedral in King Street. It is planned that every plant mentioned in the bible will be grown in this garden. There are plaques describing the plants and the relevant parts in the bible. The garden’s paved pathways form a Celtic cross with a sculpture, representing Jesus, the only figure depicted in white, meeting the Samaritan woman at the well at the center.

The gardens are open from May to September and as well as offering the visitor an ever changing experience as the garden transitions through the summer, it also provides a practical training facility for the students of horticulture at Moray College.

The biblical garden is believed to be the largest biblical garden in Europe, possibly the world.

Cashmere The Johnstons of Elgin woolen mill was founded on the picturesque banks of the River Lossie in 1797.

By the mid-19th century the mill was creating some of the finest cashmere, wool, and tweed products in the world.

A tour of the mill highlights the importance of both the mills position by the river’s soft water, and the emphasis placed on preserving the skills required for a cashmere process that hasn’t changed much in 200 years.

The largest employer in the area, Johnstons success is underpinned, through generations of families, by a cohort of skilled craftsmen and women that is the envy of its competitors.

In recognition of its export achievements, standards and employment, the company won the gold award at the prestigious UK Fashion and Textile awards in 2011 and has a Royal Warrant by HRH The Prince of Wales.

The mill produces vast amounts of cashmere for a variety of international luxury labels as well as its own brand of clothing, homeware and accessories, many of which can be found on the rails and shelves of the mill shop.

Johnstons of Elgin is the second oldest family business in Scotland, has a unique mix of history and community, and is one of the most prominent mills in the world, playing an integral part in the luxury textiles industry.

Elgin today is a city steeped in history; ruined castle on a hill, classical town centre, award winning museum and mill, restored 18th century town houses and wynds and a beautiful cathedral.

TOUR #2 Beaches and Wildlife

Tour 2 takes you North of Elgin and to the wildlife and activities that make the Moray Firth a unique experience destination.

Spynie Palace For five centuries, Spynie Palace was the fortified residence of the Bishops of Moray, standing some two miles north of Elgin on the edge of Spynie Loch, a sea loch providing direct access and a safe anchorage.

It was the centre of a thriving settlement.

A Bishop of Moray called Giric or Gregory appears in the records as early as 1120. Spynie church was chosen by Bishop Brice, as his cathedral in 1207 and whilst the Bishop’s seat was eventually moved to the Cathedral at Elgin, the Bishop’s of Moray continued to reside at Spynie until 1686.

In the early middle ages it was still possible to sail from the mouth of the River Lossie to Spynie Palace via Spynie Loch.

This earlier ‘Laich of Moray’ was drained ultimately in the mid-19th century by the Spynie Canal, designed by Thomas Telford, to reveal the flat and fertile farmland.

Today’s Spynie Loch is much smaller than the original Laich of Moray and Spynie Loch, as we now know it, was created for fishing and wildfowling.

Nothing remains of the original 13th century timber buildings and the layout of the palace, as it appears today, reflects the developments made up to 1500.

The massive David's Tower is the highlight, and is one of the largest tower houses in Scotland and originally contained five floors. The views from the top are worth the climb.

The conflict and uncertainty of the middle decades of the 1600s led to the physical decline of Spynie Palace.

That said, and together with St Andrews Castle in Fife, Spynie remains the largest surviving medieval bishop’s house in Scotland.

For today's visitor Spynie Palace still has a remarkable grandeur.

Duffus Castle Duffus Castle stands on an elevated mound on what was once the north western shore of the Loch of Spynie. With a deep moat, parapet wall and drawbridge, it was a typical Norman castle and the finest of its type in the north of Scotland.

The castle was built in 1140 by Freskin, Lord of Strathbrock, a Flemish Knight. The land was granted to him by King David I and one of the major landed fiefs granted to Anglo-Norman and Flemish immigrants.

The castle passed to the Cheyne family, supporters of the English king, Edward I, during his campaigns in Scotland, and was attacked and burnt down by the Scots in 1297 during the Wars of Independence.

It was rebuilt in stone in the fourteenth century with the wooden palisade around the bailey replaced by a stone curtain wall and a stone tower built on the motte. Duffus is one of the oldest surviving strongholds in Scotland.

On approaching the castle, it is clear that a considerable part of the stone keep has slid down the motte and parts of the curtain wall on the south east side of the bailey are leaning out at an angle.

Much of the castle, however is complete and is well preserved. For the modern visitor it’s a great opportunity to see one of the most impressive fourteenth-century stone towers in Scotland.

St Peter’s Kirk The construction of a castle, in mediaeval times, was, and with few exceptions, the pre curser for the creation of a church or Kirk. St Peter’s was the chosen location, for the Lairds of the castle at Duffus, from as early as 1226.

The church was under the invocation of St Peter and was in existence as early as 1226. It contained a chapel dedicated to St Laurence, as well as an altar of St Catherine.

With its links to the castle, the church was burned, with the castle, during the War of Independence in 1297. Sir Reginald de Cheyne, feudal lord of Duffus castle, however, remained faithful to King Edward I and, on that basis, Edward I made a grant of 200 oaks from the forests of Longmorn and Darnaway to help restore the two buildings.

The Gothic porch, with a groined vault, formed the principle entrance and was added later, in 1524 by Alexander Sutherland.

The remains of a medieval tower is the Sutherland burial vault and the St Peter’s Cross, a typical market cross stands to the South amongst some excellent examples of sixteenth century table-tombs and originally surrounded by a path constructed by a party of Cromwell’s Ironsides.

St Peter’s Kirk is a substantial building with walls in excellent condition and sited at the entrance to Gordonstoun School.

Lossiemouth Set at the mouth of the River Lossie on the beautiful Moray coast of Scotland, the town of Lossiemouth is a well established port town. Home to several examples of incredible architecture from different centuries and two fabulous beaches.

The town owes its existence to Elgin's need for a port to service its trade. For many centuries this role was fulfilled at Spynie, however, a series of storms led to a build up of sand and shingle that blocked the entrance to Loch Spynie.

Modern Lossiemouth combinies many small fishing cottages either side of some strikingly wide streets, with Commerce Street a fine example.

The most famous son of Lossiemouth is Ramsay Macdonald, the first Prime Minister from the Labour Party. That said, Lossiemouth has more to offer than its harbours, its famous inhabitants and the regular plan of the town itself.

It has two, simply breathtaking, beaches and good dining opportunities.

The beach at West Bay, stretches for three miles to the west, beyond the headland housing Covesea Lighthouse and the landing lights signifying the end of one of the runways of RAF Lossiemouth. The East Beach is reached by a pedestrian bridge and includes some impressive sand dunes at its start.

Lossiemouth offers history and diversity and there is something for everyone to see and do.

Hopeman Prehistoric dinosaur footprints, wildlife and a druids site are just some of the additional benefits of visiting this fishing village that has two beaches and a complex harbour that is the home to the Gordonstoun School sea-

manship department.

The village was founded in the nineteenth century for people displaced during the Highland clearance. The harbour divides the two large sandy beaches. The East beach has large grassy sand dunes and excellent rock pools. At its edge there are large rock formations and a smaller hidden beach, Clashach Cove which was a place of worship for the druids in the fifth century.

Overlooking the beach is Hopeman Lodge and once a boarding house for Gordonstoun School. At its foot is the Bramou Well, which is said to have healing powers.

The dinosuar footprints can be seen at the pavilion and along the beach path.

The same beach path also has the best collection of individually and brightly painted beach huts of any beach in Scotland.

Black headed gulls, curlews and oyster catchers are just some of the birds that can be observed on the beaches and the harbour wall provides the perfect vantage point to see the bottlenose dolphins as they move along the Moray Firth.

Cummingston If there was a competition to name the undiscovered parts of Moray for its visitors, Cummingston beach would be somewhere at the top of the list. The Sandstone cliffs are a feature of this Moray coastal location.

Accessed via Seaview Road, the beach at Cummingston is backed by a range of sandstone cliffs containing the Caves of Caussie.

The caves were used by tinkers or Scottish gypsies and had a part to play in the smuggling activities of the seventeenth and early eighteenth century , trade which was financed by merchants in Elgin.

The old railway line is now part of the Moray Coastal Trail network and is popular with walkers and cyclists.

The sandstone cliffs and caves are used for tuition by Scottish climbing centres and considered the best bouldering in Scotland.

Travelling to Cummingston from Hopeman and on entering Cummingston, Seaview road is on the right. Turn into Seaview road and then turn left and follow the road to the car park.

A footpath provides access to the beach and the wells that once provided the village water supply.

Parts of the sandstone cliffs at Cummingston are designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

Burghead A stronghold on the Scottish coast, a Pictish capital, a busy fishing port and the

Gordonstoun is one of the few remaining full boarding schools in the UK for approximately 600 boys and girls from ages 8 - 18.

Approximately one third of the School’s students come from overseas, representing 40 nationalities, and this helps create a mix of language and culture.

Each January, the skies above Burghead are lit up with flames as thousands of revellers gather to witness one of the most spectacular and revered rituals of the Pictish world – the Burning of the Clavie.

The fiery ceremony marking the start of the Pictish new year on January 11 is steeped in ancient tradition.

With its roots firmly in paganism, the Burning of the Clavie was condemned by the church in the 18th century but is now firmly established as one of a handful of distinctly Scottish signature celebrations.

annual burning of the Clavie. The history of Burghead goes back over 2000 years and now captured at the former Coastguard lookout.

The biggest Iron Age fort in Britain was built by the early Picts, in the fourth to seventh century, as the Pictish capital of the Kingdom of Fortriu. In 884, Torridon or Burghead as it’s now known, was the target for Sigurd the Powerful, Earl of Orkney and a Viking. It was retaken in 1010 by the Scots.

In 1805 the village was developed into a much larger settlement, although destroying much of the ancient fort in the process, with a harbour and warehouses built by Thomas Telford. As part of the works, and development of the fishing port, Pictish symbol stones, know as the “Burghead Bulls” were discovered and the Burghead Well revealed.

The Burghead Headland now houses a visitor centre adapted from the former Coastguard lookout. The centre provides visitors with the opportunity to experience the history of Burghead and serves as the perfect lookout for the Moray dolphins.

The annual burning of the Clavie, on 11 January, is one of the most revered Pictish rituals in the world and one of a handful of distinctly Scottish signature events.

Roseisle Roseisle forest and beach sits between Findhorn and Burghead on Burghead Bay. The sandy beach is sheltered by sand dunes and scots pine trees with views across the Moray Firth.

Planted in the 1930’s, the woods are a natural haven for wildlife and provide shelter for walks and cycling. There is also play and barbeque equipment, toilets and a wildlife hide. There are 3 main walks ranging from 1.3 to 1.6 miles.

Access to Burghead beach, including a disabled platform and ramp, is one of the features of Roseisle. The beach is, in itself, a walk and provides opportunity to see seals and dolphins.

Findhorn In the seventeenth century Findhorn was the principal seaport of Moray and vessels regularly sailed to and from all parts of the North Sea and as far as the Baltic Ports. But there's more to Findhorn than an attractive village, a lovely bay and a superb beach.

Findhorn was for a time an important commercial and fishing port with a thriving shipbuilding industry, however, the twentieth century saw a decline in fishing.

Both herring and salmon industries are no more.

The Crown and Anchor Inn, dating from 1739, is the oldest surviving structure in the village. Other buildings of note include Findhorn House built in 1775, The Kimberley Inn, the James Milne Institute, and the ice house Heritage Centre.

Findhorn has been transformed over the years into a peaceful haven where all can enjoy the fishing, nature reserve, seals, dolphins and Ospreys fishing at low tide and a great diversity of birds, lichen and wild life.

Today much of the village's life still revolves around the bay, though now as one of the major sailing and watersports centres along this stretch of coast and home to the Royal Findhorn Sailing Club.

Internationally, it is perhaps best known as the home of the Findhorn Foundation, which now includes 30 different businesses and initiatives, an education centre, and an eco-village comprising 29 ecological buildings.

Kinloss Abbey Kinloss Abbey is a Scheduled Ancient Monument and Grade A Listed Building of considerable significance in the context of the history of the North East of Scotland.

The Abbey was founded in 1150 by King David I and was colonised by Cistercian monks of the Melrose Abbey.

The Monastery obtained many endowments from the King and his successors and became one of the largest and wealthiest Cistercian houses in Scotland. In 1312, Robert I (The Bruce) granted the Abbey the valuable salmon fishing rights to the Findhorn and in 1362, the Earl of Sutherland bestowed, upon the Abbey, the Hospital and lands of John the Baptist of Hebnisden.

During its history the Abbey had many Royal visitors. Edward I (the 'Hammer of the Scots') camped at Kinloss Abbey for approximately 3 weeks during the autumn of 1303, Edward III stayed in 1336 and Mary Queen of Scots stayed in the Abbey in 1562, despite the church having transferred to Protestantism.

The Reformation of Parliament in 1560 finally saw the end of Kinloss Abbey, as Protestantism became the religion of the land. The last Abbot systematically dismantled the wealth and the fabric of the church until it was taken into temporal Lordship in 1601.

The ruins were eventually sold to Alexander Brodie of Lethen in 1643 who sold the stone on to Cromwell in 1650 for the construction of the Cidedal in Inverness.

Overlooking a tidal bay and the Moray Firth, Findhorn is one of Moray’s quaintest and most visited villages and over the years has become something of a playground for yachting and watersport enthusiasts.

Brodie Castle Located near Forres in Moray and near a small hill known as “Macbeth’s Hillock”, this grand castle was originally erected by Clan Brodie in 1567 and remained their ancestral seat until 1980 when the National Trust took over ownership.

The Clan Brodie has been associated with the land the castle is built on since around 1160, when it is believed that King Malcolm IV gave the land to the family. The castle was built in 1567 and architecturally, the castle has a very well preserved central keep with two 5-storey towers on opposing corners. As with many fortified stately homes of the time it has no wall. It does, however, contain a guardroom and secret passages to help the occupants escape assassination attempts.

An ancient Pictish monument known as Rodney's Stone can be seen in the castle grounds and has the longest of all pictish inscriptions found too date.

The castle underwent an extensive period of expansion and renovation during the 1830s and 40s which transformed this 16th century tower house in to the grand Scots Baronial-style mansion standing today.

Carefully restored by the National Trust, the castle’s rooms, passageway and towers are treasure troves of priceless antiques and unusual artifacts and including a unique 16th century vaulted guard house.

Forres The ancient royal burgh of Forres has links with Macbeth.

Before he became king of Scotland he fought Duncan near Pitgaveny where Duncan was killed on 10 August 1040.

Randolph’s Leap, within easy walking distance of the B9007 Carrbridge-Forres road, is a deep gorge where the fastflowing waters of the River Findhorn have eroded the sandstone rock.

It takes its name from Randolph, a 14th century Earl of Moray who was forced to give up the chase after an enemy when he leaped from one side of the chasm to the other.

Macbeth was immediately crowned at Scone to legitimize his position and he ruled over Moray from his castle in Forres.

The castle no longer exists, however, it’s location on Castle Hill is now marked by the monument to Dr James Thomson who cared for Russian wounded after the battle of Alma, 1854.

There are a number of fine buildings in the town centre which confirm the town’s earlier wealth and its role as a principal market town.

The town retains its original medieval street plan with “wynds” and

“pends” off the High Street. The toll booth was built in 1838 and the mercat cross dates from 1844 and incorporates the original that it replaced.

Near the centre of the town is the town-house, built in 1839 on the site of the old toll booth and, nearby, is the impressive St Laurence Church.

The Falconer museum was built in 1870, with funds from Hugh Falconer, a contemporary of Charles Darwin. The museum includes fossils from Falconer’s expedition to the Himalayas and a comprehensive archive and history of Forres and the surrounding area.

The Witches Stone is one of three original stones that marked the spot where three witches, accused of plotting the death of King Dubh or Duff, were put to death in 962. They were rolled down Cluny Hill in barrels and burnt at the point that they came to rest. King Dubh is said to have been murdered, in 967 by Donwald, governor of Forres castle and his body hidden under Kinloss bridge.

It is said that this account, with the murder of Dubh and the burning of the three witches was the inspiration for Shakespeare’s play.

Grant Park and its sunken garden are home to award winning floral sculptures and displays and a must see.

Close by is Nelson Tower, built to commemorate the death of Nelson at Trafalger and climbing its 96 steps (21 meters) is rewarded by spectacular views over Forres and the surrounding area.

Forres, is one of the oldest towns in Scotland and was once one of the most important places in Scotland. It remains one of the most attractive.

The octagonal Nelson’s Tower at Forres was built by public subscription in 1806 to honour Horatio Nelson and his famous victory at Trafalgar.

Visitors can climb the 96-step spiral stairway to the rooftop and enjoy spectacular views across the Moray Firth.

Sueno’s Stone The most remarkable sculptured monument in Britain, probably a cenotaph, standing over 20 feet high and dating to the end of the first millennium AD. Without doubt, the largest surviving sculptured stone in Europe and Pictish stone in the world.

The most striking thing about Sueno's Stone is its enormous scale. It stands over 6.5m or 21ft high and carries intricate carvings that completely cover the front and rear faces of the stone, and its sides. An account of a battle told in a series of horizontal strips set within panels which are displayed one above another down the length of the stone.

Similar techniques have been used elsewhere, especially on the Pictish symbol stone at Aberlemno Kirk, but it is the sheer scale of the battle being depicted, and the scale of the stone that has resulted, that makes Sueno's Stone unique. There is even historical evidence that it is one of two stones that may have formed a processional entrance to something greater.

There are many views on the battle that the stone records. An encounter between Norse and Picts or Norse and Scots, or the battle known to have been fought at Forres in 966 in which King Dubh or Duff of Alba fought for control over Moray.

Dubh was subsequently murdered and his body hidden under a bridge at nearby Kinloss. If you subscribe to this theory then the arched structure, shown on the stone, is the bridge under which Dubh's body was hidden.

Dallas Dhu and Califer Hill The picturesque distillery of Dallas Dhu was built in 1898 to produce malt whisky for blending. It’s location is close to Califer Hill viewpoint which provides an equally picturesque view over Findhorn bay and the Black Isle.

Orginally named Dallasmore, the distillery features a pagoda roof designed by the Scottish architect, Charles Doing. When ownership of the distillery changed in 1899, it was renamed Dallas Dhu. Most of its equipment was powered by steam engines and a large water wheel which were replaced in the 1950’s with electric.

Dallas Dhu is unique amongst Scottish distilleries in that, whilst it ceased production in 1983, it has been maintained as a working museum by Historic Scotland. It could, effectively, start production at any time if required. It currently plays a valuable role in promoting the heritage of whisky.

With its limited upgrades, Dallas Dhu remains close to its original state and provides a rare opportunity to experience how a distillery would have looked and operated over a century ago.

Califer hill viewpoint is a picnic site with extensive views over the Moray Firth and beyond. A viewing platform indicates directions and distances to places that can be seen.

Pluscarden Abbey For most of its history a priory, Pluscarden Abbey is home to Benedictine monks. The only medieval monastery in Britain that is still inhabited by monks and being used for its original purpose.

Founded in 1230 by King Alexander III, the monastery is located in the glen of the Black Burn. The old Pilgrim Road to Pluscarden swept round to the imposing North Gate of the Priory. The North Gate was originally protected by a large gatehouse, the ruins of which can still be seen.

The stained glass windows of the Choir, whilst much reduced since the fire of 1390 (at the hands of the Wolf of Badenoch), was a medieval wonder and the first, of its scale, anywhere in Scotland.

In the north precinct wall there are the recesses in which the monks kept their wicker beehives to produce wax for candles.

In 1454, following a merger with the priory of Urquhart, Pluscarden Priory became a Benedictine House.

The years immediately preceding the Scottish Reformation, and those after, saw the decline of the priory.

During the 17th century, the priory became ruinous and was used as a quarry for the rebuilding of St Giles Kirk, in Elgin.

The restoration by John, 3rd Marquis of Bute and the transfer of the buildings to the Benedictine community of Prinknash Abbey in 1948 was a turning point. The ongoing restoration, by the monks, resulted in the priory being raised to Abbey status in 1974.

Quarrelwood Henge A 'henge' is simply a earthen enclosure, usually composed of one or more circular banks and ditches.

The Quarrelwood henge is located within a Forestry Commission plantation on the western fringe of Elgin and built near the crest of a hill.

The enclosure is formed by an oval bank and ditch, with the bank on the outer slope There is a break in the bank on the west side to create an entrance.

There is a ditch around the enclosure, and within the henge are a pair of standing stones, about 1 metre high, which may be remnants of an earlier stone circle.

There is reason to believe that the site of Pluscarden had religious associations long before 1230 and that a hermit's cell and a well dedicated to St. Andrew may have been situated here .

TOUR #3 Speyside and Whisky

Tour 3 captures the spirit of Moray Speyside as it guides you along the world famous whisky trail.

Birnie Kirk The Kirk at Birnie is one of the few examples of surviving Norman architecture in a parish church in Scotland and was the seat of the first four Bishops of Moray from 1107-1184 before the seat was permanently moved to Elgin.

The site has been used for worship long before the current 12th century building was erected, and was probably the site of an early Celtic church dating back to the 6th century.

There are no remains of earlier structures but as part of the oval churchyard, it’s just possible to make out the outline of an early christian enclosure.

The most obvious example of the Norman architecture is the chancel arch, with its traditional rounded Norman arch, supported on wide halfpillars with carved capitals. Within the chancel, set in a caged enclosure below the south window, is an ancient silver and copper bell thought to be Celtic. Tradition says that the bell was cast in Rome, and personally blessed by the Pope.

In the churchyard, by the gate that leads to the graveyard extension, there is a Pictish carved stone. It is decorated with an eagle, z-rod, and a notched rectangle, all traditional Pictish symbols.

Millbuies Country Park

Millbuies is one of the area’s most popular beauty spots.

Gifted by philanthropist George Boyd Anderson, it has pleasant walks around a loch on which there is trout fishing. A wayfaring map and nature trail booklets are available.

An excellent outdoor environment for family activity is complemented by the car park, grass area for play with picnic tables, barbecue points and toilets.

The main path around the loch has various other paths leading off to scenic views. The paths are surrounded by a variety of trees and the loch is stocked with rainbow trout.

The park is the natural habitat for a wide range of wildlife including red squirrels, roe deer, badger and rabbit and on the loch there are mallard, moorhen and swans.

Rothes A planned town that forms a cross to replicate the Saltire in honour of St. Andrew, Rothes was inhabited as far back as 600 AD. Speyside is the home par excellence of Scotch whisky and Rothes lies at the heart of the famous ‘Whisky Trail’.

Rothes is home to 4 distilleries, and hardly a corner can be turned without seeing the charcoal stained stone bonded warehouses and pagoda roofs distinct of the distilling industry.

Of course, no visit would be complete without sampling the ‘water of life’ for which the region is famed and no better place than the Glen Grant

distillery.

The Distillery stands on the west side of the main road at the north end of Rothes and no visit to the distillery would be complete without a tour of the garden.

Glen Grant Garden occupies some 22 acres of the glen formed by the Back Burn, which flows down through the distillery towards the River Spey from the hills to the west. Access to the garden, and to the distillery, is via the visitor centre which you reach via a short woodland path from the landscaped and well tended visitor car park.

At the south end of the village lie the remains of Rothes Castle built on a hill by Peter de Pollok about 1200 AD to command traffic up and down this stretch of Speyside. The castle's remains consist of a fragment of the massive outer wall overlooking the High Street.

Aberlour This picturesque village stretches for almost a mile along the A95, offering passing motorists views of its broad High Street Close, dotted with trees.

The focal point for the village is the square that lies towards the south west end of the village.

Many aspects of Aberlour’s history can be found where the High Street crosses the Lour burn. The pack horse bridge, built before 1624 leads to the old Kirk of Skirdustan (St. Drostan). The only part of this Kirk still remaining is the ivy covered gable wall in the cemetery.

The Aberlour Distillery, which is open to visitors, was built by James Fleming in 1879, reusing the name of a nearby distillery which had burned down while his was being constructed and is well known by many for the Aberlour single cask malt whisky, also known as Aberlour A'bunadh On the side nearest the River Spey is the Parish Church, built in 1812 as part of the new town to replace St Drostan's Church.

The other end of Aberlour is home to a different, but equally famous industry.

Walkers Shortbread is the largest independent biscuit maker in the UK, and produces 60% of all the shortbread exported from Scotland: it is also the UK's largest biscuit exporter, serving over 40 countries.

Ballindalloch Castle Known as ‘The Pearl of the North’ Ballindalloch Castle has been the home of the Macpherson-Grants since the 16th century and today is one of the finest surviving examples of a classic Scottish baronial castle.

Ballindalloch Castle is an impressive and attractive Z-plan tower house, which was extended and altered in 1845.

The walls of the tower are pierced by shotholes and small windows.

A lower wing was added in the 18th century, and in the 19th century the house was extended again.

The Rivers Spey and Avon run through the estate, offering excellent fishing, and the cattle that graze here belong to the oldest Aberdeen Angus herd in the world.

The beautifully maintained walled and rock gardens are spectacular when in full bloom and offer a tranquil haven during the summer months.

Knockando Woolmill Ballindalloch castle is part of a famous Highland sporting estate.

The estate welcomes guests from around the world to enjoy excellent fly-fishing on the Rivers Spey and Avon, as well as pheasant and grouse shooting and world renowned roe stalking.

Listed as the 'Wauk Mill' in parish records from 1784, the mill has since maintained its traditions of spinning and weaving through generations of families.

It is the oldest continually operating rural mill in Scotland and visitors can experience the unique sounds and smells of yarn being spun and cloth woven on the Victorian machinery that is still in use today.

Drumin Castle Drumin Castle stands on a rocky bluff overlooking the confluence of the River Livet and the River Avon and protected by them on its north eastern and north western sides.

Drumin Castle was probably built in 1376 and stands in an ideal defensive location which may have been fortified as far back as the Iron Age. In 1372 the lands in the area were granted by King Robert II to his fourth illegitimate son, Alexander Stewart, 1st Earl of Buchan,the younger brother of the future Robert III. Alexander Stewart is remembered by history as Wolf of Badenoch and best known for descending on Elgin on 17 June 1390 and destroying Elgin Cathedral.

Packhorse Bridge The Packhorse Bridge spans the Livet where it tumbles through a narrow, rocky gorge at Bridgend. It is the oldest surviving structure to cross the River Livet and is thought to have been built at the same time as nearby Blairfindy Castle.

Hundreds of years old and still

standing strong, the bridge helped early bootleggers distribute their whisky undetected.

Only two of the original arches survive, the third having been ripped away during the Muckle Spate of 1829.

It is easily accessible, with a small car park off the B9008, but the bridge is in a rather precarious condition so can no longer be crossed.

Knock Earth House Discovered in the 1960's by a ploughman working his field, this stone lined underground chamber, now known as the Knock Earth House is of uncertain origin.

It is thought that it may have originally been constructed as a 'earth house' or souterrain - an underground structure dating from the late Bronze Age (c 1200BC).

The site is an ancient listed monument, so if exploring please take care not to disturb any stones.

Tomintoul The highest village in the Highlands, Tomintoul is a perfect example of an 18th century Scottish Highland planned village with a central square and many Georgian and Victorian buildings.

Tomintoul nestles at a height of 354m or 1,160ft on the northern slopes of the Cairngorm Mountains. Travel south west from here and you encounter nothing more developed than the odd track for nearly 40 miles There were settlements in this area by the 1640s, but Tomintoul itself did not come into being until 1776.

In the aftermath of the 1745 Jacobite uprising many changes swept the Highlands, and a desire to control both political and economic activity was high on the agenda.

It was during this period that the 4th Duke of Gordon decided to build a new village to house the populations of a number of dispersed settlements across his estate. This may in part have been driven by a desire to improve people's fairly miserable lives, but it was also designed to make it easier to stamp out cattle reiving and whisky smuggling, both elements of a way of life in this part of the Highlands that had lasted for generations.

The town is an ideal place from which to explore the Glenlivet Estate (a key part of the Malt Whisky Trail) and the north eastern Cairngorms.

Within the Glenlivet Estate there are over one hundred miles of easy access walking and biking trails and those looking for more active outdoor pursuits can enjoy horse riding, clay pigeon shooting, fine fishing beats, and in winter a variety of snow sports which are available at the nearby ski resort.

‘The Still’ Viewpoint’ The viewpoint installation at the former limestone quarry, just outside Tomintoul, and sits on the Snow Roads Scenic Route. There is plenty of parking in the large layby and its only a short walk up to the viewpoint.

Called Still, it was designed by Glasgow-based architects Angus Ritchie and Daniel Tyler.

The box-like structure has mirrored interior walls that reflect the landscape that can be seen from two open ends of the installation.

The Lecht The Lecht is one of the most intimate, friendly and innovative snowsport centres in Scotland.

In recent years the resort has been at the forefront of developing alternative snow and mountain sports in Scotland.

Small but perfectly formed, the Lecht has everything you’d expect at a much larger resort and then some.

Serious sport skiers will be delighted to find a race piste with timing and slalom poles, freestylers are catered for with a park when conditions allow and beginners have the luxury of a travelator – dubbed the Magic Carpet – for getting back up to the top of the nursery slopes.

Summer Activities include 2 downhill mountain trails for Mountain Bikes with a skills park

Scalan Seminary After the Reformation of 1560 the Catholic Church almost died out in Scotland.

For a short time in the early 1600's there was not a single Catholic priest in the whole country, and for much of the century there were so few that the Mass was often little more than a memory even to those who had remained Catholic.

In 1716 Catholic Bishops established a college for priests and chose this remote spot at the foot of the Ladder Hills to avoid persecution by Hanoverian soldiers.

For much of the 18th century, the college at Scalan in the Braes of Glenlivet was the only place in Scotland where young men were trained to be priests.

The Scalan seminary is arguably one of the most significant sites of historical interest in Moray.

Dufftown Set in the heart of Speyside, Dufftown is situated on the banks of the River Fiddich and the Dullan Water at the foot of the Conval Hills.

Dufftown feels like the planned village it is and its focus is the main square as this is at the intersection of the roads running into and through Dufftown. In the centre of the square is the distinctive clock tower.

For most of its existence the town has been the most important centre of pure malt whisky distilling in Scotland. and founders of the Spirit of Speyside whisky festival.

Dufftown produces more whisky than any other town in Scotland, is the ‘malt whisky capital’, the central point of the Malt Whisky Trail and home to the Glenfiddich distillery.

The Dufftown Highland Games are held on the last Saturday in July and offer a taste of something Scottish for everybody.

The games offer a full programme of Light and Heavy Events, Massed Pipe Bands, Highland Dancing, Hill Races, fun for the entire family and much more.

Just beyond Glenfiddich Distillery on the road to Craigellachie is the old Dufftown Railway Station. This is now a terminus for the Keith and Dufftown Railway which runs seasonal services for the 45 minute trip to Keith.

Two miles south of Dufftown is Auchindoun. This was the site of an Iron Age hill fort, within which was later built Auchindoun Castle, a tower house constructed in the 15th century.

The Whisky Shop, Dufftown is an independent whisky information centre and offers an exceptional selection of over 600 whiskies and related items for you to buy.

You can get helpful advice on which whiskies to buy, how to fully enjoy Scotland's finest product and make the most of your trip to Speyside.

Mortlach Kirk Founded in 566 AD by St Moulag, the Kirk is one of the oldest Christian settlements in Scotland.

In the church vestibule is a carved Pictish stone bearing the image of a beast. One of the stained glass windows depicts Pictish stones as well.

The earliest parts of the church may date to the 8th century, or possibly even earlier, but much of what can be seen today dates to a major rebuilding in the 12th century.

The north wall with its postern door has a leper's squint and in the graveyard is the watch-house used to guard against body-snatchers.

In the lower graveyard stands the Battle Stone, a late Pictish symbol stone.

Mortlach itself is the site where in 1010 King Malcolm II defeated a huge force of Vikings on the hill opposite the kirk.

Balvenie Castle Immediately north of the town centre at Dufftown is Balvenie Castle, a 13th century fortress once owned by a succession of powerful noble families, including the Comyns, Douglasses, and Stewarts, and visited by Mary, Queen of Scots.

The castle is surrounded by a high curtain wall, within which stands a three-storey 16th century tower house built by the 4th Earl of Atholl.

Balvenie castle is said to be home to a phantom ‘White Lady’, as well as a groom and two phantom horses.

Others have heard the sound of a disembodied voice, and also sweet flute music.

The entrance, still with the original yett, is flanked by a projecting round tower.

The early work contains a massive vaulted cellar and bakery on the ground floor, and a great hall with a pointed vault above. The upper floors are ruined.

The site was strategically significant as it commands the mouths of Glen Fiddich and Glen Rinnes along with routes to Huntly, Keith, Cullen and Elgin.

Craigellachie The name means "rocky hill" and was first applied to the cliff on which much of the village is sited, above the River Spey.

Craigellachie dates back to at least 1750, when there was a ferry across the Spey where today's village now stands.

In the village you will find one of Craigellachie's two distilleries, the appropriately named Craigellachie Distillery. This dates back to 1891, though much of what you see today was built in in 1965.

Craigellachie's second and more widely known distillery is The Macallan and the whisky produced is highly rated as a single malt.

The Macallan distillery is found a little to the west of the village, on the other side of the River Spey.

Outside Craigellachie on the Dufftown road is the Speyside Cooperage. Here 100,000 barrels a year are constructed or repaired, mainly for the distilleries of the area.

Craigellachie Bridge The iconic Bridge is one of Moray’s most photographed structures and is one of the finest examples of Thomas Telford’s work.

Opened in 1814, it carried vehicular traffic over the River Spey until the early 1970s when a new road bridge was built downstream.

The bridge is a remarkable piece of engineering and can be viewed from deck level or from the riverbank below.

The bridge, which has a single 150ft span, was revolutionary for its time and is the only surviving iron bridge in Scotland.

Macallan Distillery The new distillery and visitor experience is located on the stunning Easter Elchies estate, which has been home to the leading luxury single malt since 1824. From humble beginnings, the brand has risen to become the leading international single malt by value and enjoys leading positions in some of the world’s most significant Scotch whisky markets including the USA, Taiwan, and Japan.

The striking piece of contemporary architecture is cut into the slope of the land, taking its cues from ancient Scottish hills and maximising the aesthetic beauty of the building whilst minimising the visual impact on the Speyside landscape, which has been classified as an ‘Area of Great Landscape Value’.

The undulating timber roof structure is one of the most complicated timber roof structures in the world, comprising 380,000 individual components.

TOUR #4 Sea and Farm

Tour 4 provdes an insight into the key commercial activities both past and present that shaped the Moray of today.

Fochabers Fochabers is not a large town, but it is very attractive and offers visitors a selection of very fine buildings to enjoy.

The fine Georgian church on the south side of the square is especially striking, complete with its clock-tower dated 1798 and in close proximity there is an impressive fountain.

At the end of July, the playing fields on East Street in the town are home to the annual Speyfest, three days of the best in traditional and contemporary Celtic music.

Baxters, a family-run company specialising in soup and preserves, has been operating in Fochabers since 1868. The Baxters site comes complete with an excellent visitor centre. Here you can find out about the history of the company and the visitor centre also houses a good value restaurant.

Gordon Castle and Walled Garden The family of Gordon is an ancient clan whose lineage dates back to the reign of King Robert the Bruce in the 14th Century. A castle was first established on the site of the Estate in 1479 by George, Second Earl of Huntly, the great, great grandson of Sir Adam Gordon, who had fought with Robert the Bruce at the Battle of Inverury in 1308.

In the late 18th Century Alexander, 4th Duke of Gordon, set about transforming the fortress of Gordon Castle into a grand baronial mansion, a Scottish Versailles, designed for show not defence.

The Walled Garden at Gordon Castle has a long history, with evidence of a walled garden existing e from the 17th century.

Built in its present form in 1803, it was soon bustling with activity and abundant with flowers, fruit, vegetables and herbs to supply the Castle.

The Walled Garden’s national significance was recognized in the Inventory of Gardens and Designed Landscapes in Scotland (1987), where it was judged to be ‘outstanding,’ and a ‘work of art.’

Spey Bay Spey Bay is a beautiful coastal reserve with the largest shingle beach in Scotland.

Constant changes caused by the river create a succession of habitats, from bare shingle to coastal grasslands, brackish saltmarsh and wet woodland.

Spey Bay's origins are linked fundamentally to the salmon fishing on the Spey.

The fishing station is no longer operational but the Tugnet icehouse - the largest in Scotland - remains as a tourist attraction and is now home to the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society.

The centre offers landbased dolphin and whale watching, and has exhibitions and regular events which are popular attractions for the whole family.

The mouth of the Spey is also a wildfowl sanctuary with many geese, ducks, swans and other water birds regular visitors to the area.

The annual Really Wild Festival in May is a celebration of Moray’s scenic outdoors and the fantastic array of wildlife and heritage that the area has to offer.

The free festival offers a programme of family activities, including a 23ft climbing wall that allows children and adults to enjoy spectacular views right across the Moray Firth.

Garmouth On first sight, Garmouth is a jumble of attractive cottages and houses, arranged apparently at random around a pattern of streets that seems to have grown organically over time. The result is a charming village that contrasts strongly with the planned settlements in Moray.

A plaque in the village commemorates the landing of King Charles II on

Tugnet Ice House is a threevaulted ice house and is the largest building of its kind in Scotland with only a third showing above ground level.

It was built in 1830 and was used as a cold store to keep locally-caught salmon fresh until shipping.

23 June 1650, in defiance of Cromwell, and his signing of the Covenant and the Solemn League immediately after coming ashore.

Given its location it is difficult to imagine that Garmout was a significant port from the 16th century until the middle of the 19th century and that the village of Kingston was once the centre of a thriving shipbuilding industry which sent its vessels all over the world.

Buckie Buckie began to take shape in the late eighteenth century and early nineteenth century. A new town was laid out along the ridge above and behind the fishing villages by the Gordon family of Cluny, whose grand mansion, Letterfourie House, had been built a little inland by Robert Adam in 1773.

Formed ultimately by the merging of several separate nearby fishing villages such as Nether Buckie, Easter Buckie, Yardie and Portessie, in 1877, a new harbour was built by the Cluny family (hence its name, Cluny Harbour) to replace the stone harbour built twenty years earlier in Nether Buckie.

At the time it was one of the finest harbours in Scotland and remains one of the most active and fascinating in Scotland.

Despite the setbacks that have befallen the Scottish fishing fleet in recent years, Buckie remains a great place to see fishing boats going about their business. It is also unusual in remaining home to an active shipyard.

As well as the harbour, everyday life in Buckie offers no shortage of charming sights and attractions, and the Victorian architecture is an impressive presence within the town, underlining its rich history.

St Peter’s Church is one such stunning building - and it can be seen for miles along the coastline.

The twin-spired gothic masterpiece was originally intended to be a cathedral of the Roman Catholic Church in 1857, but never achieved the intended status. Nevertheless it is definitely one of the most magnificent churches in the North East of Scotland.

Portknockie and Bow Fiddle Rock The Moray Coastal Trail between Buckie and Cullen offers fantastic views including Portknockie’s Bow Fiddle rock, so named because it resembles the top of a fiddler’s bow.

Portknockie is a small cliff top fishing village on the Moray coast between Buckie and Cullen with a history dating back to 1677. It was a major fishing port in the 19th century and today the harbour serves as a marina for private boats.

The waters around Portknockie are home to dolphins and sea birds and it is where the Bow Fiddle Rock, with its unique ‘bow shaped’ formation can be seen.

There is a clear path and a bench to view the rock from, but you can get better views by walking west towards the coastline.

Cullen The Royal Burgh of Cullen has stunning sandy beaches and seascapes, coastal paths, an historic harbour designed by Thomas Telford, great shops and eateries and all set against the stunning backdrop of old railway viaducts.

A popular tourist destination and a relaxing seaside holiday resort, Cullen's wealth in the 18th century was built on textiles, and threadmaking in particular.

However the main period of growth came with the herring boom in the 19th century.

New Cullen and Seatown of Cullen were built in the 1820s, the latter close to the pier built by Thomas Telford in 1819.

This fishing heritage lies behind Cullen's main claim to fame: a smoked haddock, potato and onion soup named after the town Cullen Skink.

One of the most striking features to come out of the development of the town in the 19th Century was the railway viaduct and designed to imitate an ancient gateway.

The railway viaduct was completed in 1886 by the Great North of Scotland Railway. It provides a spectacular and unique backdrop to the town as well as the arches providing “framed” views of Cullen Bay. The rocks on the shore are known locally as the Three Kings of Cullen.

Cullen Auld Kirk The Auld Kirk dates mainly to the 11th century although there is evidence that the roots of the kirk go back a further two centuries.

One of Moray’s best-known landmarks is the longdisused stone viaduct that towers over Cullen.

The railway had to be constructed over the town, rather than past it, because the then Countess of Seafield would not allow it to run through the grounds of Cullen House.

The existence of a church at Cullen was first recorded in 1236, and again in 1275.

It is likely that part of the present building dates back to this time, since the rounded arch window, originally a doorway, in the southwest corner of the church indicates a building of early 13th century.

Elizabeth de Burgh (Queen) died at the Royal residence of Cullen Castle on 26th October 1327. Her entrails were removed during the embalming process and buried in the Auld Kirk. The rest of her body was taken to Dunfermline Abbey for burial, where it was joined, eighteen months later, by her husband, King Robert (Bruce).

The church is known for its fine stone carvings and of particular interest is the beautifully carved tomb of Alexander Ogilvie of that Ilk (d. 1554).

Further features include a Laird's gallery of 1602, built for the Seafield family, and a lovely sacrament house set in the north wall.

Keith An agricultural town on the River Isla, its origins date as far back as the 8th century when it was an important centre for the cattle trade.

In its early history Keith was styled as Burgh of Barony which gave it the right to convict criminals.

Historically, agriculture was the most important industry and barley, oats and flax would have been grown.

The banks of the River Isla also formed the focus for a more enduring industry for Keith: distilling.

There are four distilleries in Keith or in its immediate area and by far its best know is Strathisla and it is also, by far, the most picturesque distillery in Scotland.

It is also the oldest legally operating distillery in the Highlands, having been in operation since 1786.

In the New town of Keith a system of lotted lands was introduced whereby each house was given a piece of land to cultivate or rear cattle.

The’ Cottage Industry’ of spinning and weaving gave way to a more struc-

tured method of large scale woollen mills.

Textiles remained an important source of wealth for Keith until quite recent times. The Isla Bank Mills to the north of the town were a centre for the tweed industry from the 1850s until the 1990s and are now home to a successful business park.

At the Keith Kilt School, students are taught the art of kilt making and the Scottish Tartans Museum is the only one of its kind.

Keith sits in a valley surrounded and protected by a number of outstanding hills, all of which have fine walking routes.

In the east there is Balloch Hill, to the west Ben Aigen and Muldearie Hills, north has the Knock Hill and to the south the mighty Ben Rinnes can be seen, and on the skyline the smaller Cairds Hill.

Today Keith continues to flourish with many small industries replacing the woollen mills, like the Kilt Making School, Printers and Cabinets Makers to name but a few.

With its ‘Industrial Heritage ‘its agriculture, distilleries, many specialised manufacturers, and hill and nature walks on its doorstep Keith lends itself to service industries and tourism.

Keith Country Show The River Isla could be forded at old Keith and this gave rise to the’ Great Simmareve Fair’ when traders and manufacturers from as far south as Glasgow and merchants from as far afield as Highlands, Orkney and Western Isles congregated in Keith for the sale of black cattle and horses.

The Simmareve Fair, in mid September, lasted a week and was ultimately replaced by the ‘Keith Country Show’.

Though farming methods today are somewhat different than those of our fore fathers, Keith Show still holds true to its agricultural roots.

This can be seen by the variety of exhibitions, demonstrations and traders available within the showground.

The Auld Brig in Keith was a packhorse bridge built in 1609 of stone and is one of the oldest surviving structures of its kind in Scotland.

It was designed to take people on foot or ponies and horses but not a cart or carriage.

MORAY OUTDOORS

Moray’s mountains, rivers, forests and spectacular coastline offer the opportunity to indulge in a vast range of outdoor pursuits.

Moray Outdoors When it comes to outdoor activities in Moray, your options are virtually endless.

Whether you’re a water adventurist or a land lover, Moray has got it covered.

Fish, sail, kayak, canoe, dive or simply dip your toes in the ocean, there is a wide choice of freshwater or ocean for you to explore. Or keep your feet on land and explore the many hiking and biking trails and end the day with dinner on the beach watching the sunset.

Regardless of your ability, taste or preferences, Moray has some type of outdoor activity for you. What’s even better is that you don’t have to drive for days, or even hours, to find something amazing to do.

In short, Moray is one big adventure playground with boundless possibilities for outdoor activities and adventure.

Adventure Outdoors The only way to make adventure activities even more memorable is to experience them in the most breathtaking places in the world.

Moray is a destination of choice for adventure lovers and outdoor activity enthusiasts and the place to experience new, authentic and enriching outdoor activities.

Swift-flowing rivers, thunderous waterfalls spilling over rocky precipices and bike trails slicing through Moray’s tranquil highland and forests provide a natural playground perfect for an adventure holiday. Then there is Moray's dramatic coastline where you can scramble over rocky shores, explore secret coves and jump straight into the sea.

If you are seeking activities with a guaranteed adrenalin rush, or challenges that will push you to your physical and mental limits, you've come to the right place - Moray has an incredible adventure activity offering.

The team at Outfit Moray ‒ a top-quality, safety-first outdoor adventure provider ‒ will help you discover all the beauty of the Moray landscape, and choose from a rainbow of thrilling, emotion-packed outdoor activities.

Whilst Outfit Moray is widely known as an outdoor learning and adventure charity which supports vulnerable and disadvantaged young people, they also provide you, your group or family with a life enhancing outdoor experience through their commercial adventure days.

And they don't just cater for seasoned thrill seekers. Unlike more extreme outdoor sports, canyoning, gorge swimming and coasteering are splendid family outdoor activities.

After getting kitted out in specialist waterproof gear and safety equipment - supervised by an experienced and qualified instructor at all times - kids can relish sliding down natural flumes, riding tidal swells and swimming into sea coves.

Check out the unrivalled list of adventure activities provided by Outfit Moray:

Gorge Swimming Gorge swimming takes you well off the beaten track, through an exhilarating landscape of waterfalls, plunge pools and fast-moving water, carved at the bottom of the ravine.

The Outfit Moray instructors help you negotiate the gorge, with waterfalls to be climbed, slides to be descended, jumps to be jumped and pools to be swum. They also supply warm winter wet suits and wet suit boots to keep you warm while you enjoy the thrill of a lifetime.

Coasteering This is an amazing activity involving exploring the “tidal impact zone”, where land meets sea.

Outfit Moray use the rocky coves near the historic fishing village of Portknockie for most of their coasteering sessions and provide full length, 5mm, winter wetsuits, boots and gloves to keep you toasty warm and their expert instructors keep you informed and entertained.

There is a variety of routes whether you want a mild and educational or a wild and exciting experience.

Canoeing Outfit Moray have years of canoeing experience, whether it be gliding across a calm loch or enjoying the white water of the UK’s fastest river, the Spey.

They choose from a wide range of locations to make sure they get it right for you.

Even though canoeing is seen as a dry sport, if you fancy testing your skills, they can supply you with a wet suit just in case. Outfit Moray has all the kit you need for a great day on the water; all you need is enthusiasm and a towel; just in case.

Kayaking Whether you are on a loch or bobbing down a rapid on a river, Outfit Moray has everything you need to have a day to remember.

More maneuverable than canoes, kayaks are great for negotiating a rapid or for learning skills and playing games on lochs. Outfit Moray can teach beginners the basics or improve the skills of more advanced paddlers. They provide you with all the kit you need to keep you warm and safe including wet suits, cags, a paddle, buoyancy aids and helmets.

All you need is some sun cream and a towel just in case!

Rock Climbing Rock climbing is an enjoyable experience even for those who are a little afraid of heights.

The venues that Outfit Moray use are great places for groups and families and have great picnic spots to boot.

On the rock, their qualified instructors will make your experience safe and as enjoyable as possible and can give you the skills you need to continue climbing on your own.

They supply you with all technical equipment needed, including helmets, harnesses and rock shoes. The only thing you have to bring is a passion for adventure!

Outfit Moray can provide sessions covering: abseiling (descending the crag), indoor rock climbing, learning to lead (learning to place and evaluate your own protection whilst climbing), and multi pitch rock climbing (rock climbing in the mountains).

Tyrolean Tyrolean traverses were first used in the Mountains of the Tyrol Region of Austria to make inaccessible areas more accessible.

Outfit Moray have a number of venues across Moray that they use for this activity which challenges your teamwork, rope skills and bravery. They use mountaineering equipment including ropes, helmets, and harnesses to safely transport your group over the top of a river with the aim of not getting your group wet.

How good are your knots?

Body Boarding and Surfing Outfit Moray provide surfing or body boarding lessons in a variety of locations around Moray.

They will provide everything you need from a safe soft surf or body board, perfect for catching your first wave, to warm 5mm wetsuits and boots to keep you warm while you are doing it. They even have gloves and hoods for the colder months when the waves are often even better.

Instructors are qualified both to coach the sports, as well as in beach life guarding techniques to keep you safe.

Try these exhilarating sports and your life might never be the same again.

Bushcraft Bushcraft skills have become increasingly popular in recent years and this is a great activity for families or groups to test their skills and learn some more.

Outfit Moray use a number of local woodlands around Moray to cover subjects including fire craft, outdoor cooking, shelter building and the environment.

Using skills that are fast disappearing in the modern world, your instructor will guide you through a session that might include traditional fire lighting skills,

cooking on fires, shelter building and minimising our impact on the environments we use.

Archery Outfit Moray have a mobile archery range which allows them to set up on large fields or suitable parks.

They use modern re-curve wooden bows in a variety of sizes to suit the budding archer’s needs and have qualified instructors who will work with you on achieving that perfect score.

Archery is a very enjoyable and addictive activity that will suit any age group and all abilities at a wide range of venues around Moray.

Hill Walking Hill walking in Scotland is world famous with stunning remote isolated wilderness teeming with wildlife and history.

The size of Scotland’s mountains means accessing all but the remotest peaks can be done in a day and you can have your feet up by the fire in a bothy or local pub by nightfall.

Outfit Moray have experienced and qualified Mountain Leaders, able to tailor your trip to meet your own personal aims and able to teach you the basic skills to keep yourself safe in the Scottish hills. They also have all the equipment you will need, including boots, waterproofs, rucksacks and fleeces, to allow you to get out and have a great day in all but the fiercest of Scottish weather.

Mountain Biking Using a variety of venues, Outfit Moray cater for all group and family needs, from the wide rolling trails of Culbin Forest to the Speyside Way to whizzing down the single tracks of the Moray Monster Trails in Fochabers.

Outfit Moray provide all the equipment needed for a safe and exciting days riding including bike, helmet, gloves and repair kits.

You can either have the full guided experience, a day of coaching to improve your skills or simply hire our bikes to explore what Moray.

Outfit Moray also offer night biking, bike skills courses, bike maintenance classes and are an approved provider of Cycling Scotland’s ‘Go Mountain Bike’ scheme.

Contact Outfit Moray: Shore Street Lossiemouth Moray IV31 6AS By phone: 01343 549571

Outfit Moray email: info@outfitmoray.com

Walking and Hiking Outdoors The Moray Coast Trail With its marvellous landscapes from rugged cliffs, caves and sheltered coves to fishertown harbours and sweeping stretches of sandy beaches, Moray has a coastline alive with wildlife that would be the envy of many other regions in Britain.

As might be expected, it makes for an excellent walking route - the Moray Coastal Trail.

Beginning inland at the town of Forres, it soon hits the coastline at Findhorn, famed for its eco-community.

The section from Burghead to Lossiemouth has some superb clifftop walking with great seaviews. Further on is Spey Bay, renowned for its dolphins, the shipbuilding heritage of Buckie and finally a string of picturesque former fishing villages leads on to Cullen, just over 72km from the start.

Speyside Way The Speyside Way is a delightful self-guided walking holiday through the heart of the Whisky Country to the foothills of the Cairngorm Mountains. Speyside is one of the loveliest and most unspoilt parts of the British Isles. It is overlooked by some of its highest mountains and beneath them are some of Scotland's grandest pine forests.

This wonderful area is known as 'Scotland's larder', and is home to many attractive villages, castles and wildlife.

The Speyside Way runs from Buckie on the shore of the Moray Firth, southwestwards to Aviemore on the edge of the Cairngorm Mountains, a distance of approximately 65 miles. There is also a 15-mile spur to Tomintoul.

The Speyside Way can be split into 9 sections, of which 5 are Moray specific: Section 1: Buckie to Spey Bay Section 2: Spey Bay to Fochabers Section 3: Fochabers to Craigellachie Section 4: Craigellachie to Ballindalloch Section 5: Tomintoul Spur – Ballindalloch to Tomintoul The route passes through some of Scotland's most beautiful landscapes; by rivers and mountains, over moorland and along forest paths.

Follow the River Spey from the wave-battered coastline up through birchwoods and pastures, with views of heather-clad hills giving way steadily to the rising peaks of the Cairngorm Mountains.

The trail is alive with welcoming villages and a wide variety of wildlife, from ospreys to dolphins, while budding historians will love the Pictish relics, standing stones and ancient castles.

As you walk the Speyside Way through splendid scenery, from open coastlands

and rich farmland to heather clad hills and ancient Caledonian forests, look out for the dolphins as you pass Spey Bay. Some of Scotland’s most famous distilleries await, too, including Glen Grant, Macallan, and Glenlivet. Overall, the Speyside Way is an approachable, settled route through a wild and beguiling landscape.

This route has been classified as a walking and cycle route but not all of the trail is suitable for cycling. The off road section between Ballindalloch and Tomintoul should be avoided on bikes.

Generally, the going is mainly gentle rather than arduous, and footpaths are mostly well maintained. That said, the Tomintoul spur is a challenging days walking which is rewarded by the great views and sense of wilderness as you walk through the magnificent Cairngorm mountains.

Dolphin Outdoors One of the biggest attractions in Moray has to be the Moray Firth Dolphins, the largest school of dolphins in the UK. "Scotland is one of the best land-based dolphin watching hot spots in the world" - Simon King, BBC Springwatch.

The Moray Firth is home to the most northerly colony of Bottlenose Dolphins in the world and this is one of only two resident populations in the UK. The most recent population studies seem to indicate a stable or very slightly increasing population with numbers recently revised from 130 individuals in the colony to approximately 200.

The Moray Firth dolphins are also rather unique in that they are the largest Bottlenose Dolphins you will see anywhere in the world, growing to 4m in length and weighing up to 350kg. It is often only when you see them breach clear of the water that you get a true sense of their size and power.

Typically an adult dolphin will live to about 40 years of age and certain individuals are very recognisable due to nicks and scratches on the dorsal fins.

You could start your dolphin-spotting quest at the WDC Scottish Dolphin Centre at Spey Bay. They have all the expertise you need to point you towards the most up-to-date sightings. They have an exhibition centre and a cafe too.

The WDC Scottish Dolphin Centre is situated at the mouth of the River Spey and is a haven for wildlife including bottlenose dolphins, ospreys, grey and common seals, the occasional otter and many coastal birds. The Centre is based in an 18th century salmon fishing station and has a fascinating history.

The vantage points at Burghead Headland and Hopeman also offer an unrivalled viewing position as these famous dolphins travel in search of food.

Several companies run dolphin-spotting boat trips around the Moray Firth.

However, researchers claim that the increased traffic is causing the dolphins unnecessary stress, particularly during the all-important breeding period when passing vessels are thought to force calves underwater for uncomfortably long periods, so if you decide to go on a cruise to see the dolphins – and perhaps minke whales, porpoises, seals and otters – make sure the operator is a member of the Dolphin Space Programme’s accreditation scheme.

Like the Dolphins some species, such as the shy Harbour Porpoise can be seen in the Firth all year round, others such as the Pilot Whale, Minke Whale, Orca and Basking Shark are much more occasional visitors.

MALT WHISKY TRAIL

The Malt Whisky Trail meanders its way through the stunning Highlands of Moray, visiting 8 distilleries and the Speyside Cooperage

The Malt Whisky Trail The only trail of its kind in the world.

Whisky is Scotland’s premier product. It’s exported to over 200 countries and worth more than £2.5 billion (US $3.3 billion) annually.

The whisky industry of Scotland originates from the 15th Century when in 1494 the earliest record of distilling in Scotland was documented.

Since then the whisky industry has developed to become an intrinsic part of Scottish life and today generates vital employment opportunities and export revenue for the country.

The whisky trail goes through Scotland’s best known whisky region, Speyside. There are eight distilleries and a cooperage that make up the trail.

Each whisky distillery on the distillery tour follows its own traditions, lore and recipes for everything from malting the barley to the height and size of its stills. The unique characteristics of each Speyside whisky distillery result in delightful, hand-crafted whisky from each one.

All offer visitors a sample of the finished product and some include an informative nosing and tasting while others give an insight into the complex art of blending whisky and malt.

Benromach Located outside of Forres, the distillery was founded in Forres in 1898 and renovated in 1993 when it was bought by Gordon & MacPhail. There is a good visitor centre with a number of distinct tours which include the opportunity to blend your own bottle. You can do the welcome tour, essential tour, exclusive managers tour, or bottle your own experience tour.

Cardhu This used to be Cardow Farm, but now is a distillery located in Knockando.

The best thing about The Malt Whisky Trail is that it’s the only malt whisky trail in the world!

So when you take a vacation to Moray to discover the difference between whisky and whiskey, you’ll truly be experiencing a one of a kind trip!

It was officially founded in 1824 by John Cumming, under the name Cardow, but it is thought there was distillation taking place on the site for at least a decade prior to this official opening date.

The Cardhu distillery was purchased by John Walker and Sons Ltd in 1893 and to this day, their malt whisky is one of the main ingredients in the Johnnie Walker blended whiskies – the world’s most popular blend.

Dallas Dhu Distillery Although no longer in production, tours of Dallas Dhu still take place all year.

The first barrel of whisky was distilled here in 1899 and the last was in 1983.

The Dallas Dhu Distillery is a time capsule; a perfectly preserved example of a late 19th-century whisky distillery. Trace the distilling process from malt to the barrel, in a historic setting that changed very little since it opened in 1899.

Glenfiddich Located in Dufftown, the Glenfiddich distillery was built by the Grant family in 1887.

Glenfiddich has a number of claims to fame. Perhaps most importantly, it was Glenfiddich which, in 1963, decided to market a single malt whisky to the world.

Up to that point, most thought that Scotch whisky was blended whisky. The new market that has grown so significantly since owes much to Glenfiddich; and it is fitting that theirs is the biggest selling single malt worldwide.

Glenfiddich is also one of the most popular distilleries with visitors.

In part this is because its name is so well known, but in large measure it is because the visitor facilities are so good.

Glen Grant This whisky is named after it’s founder, Major James Grant, and is located in Rothes.

Major Grant’s mission was to create a “single malt as it should be.” He applied his unconventional and forward thinking vision to the design of the innovative tall slender pot stills and unique purifiers to create a light, delicate single malt Scotch whisky.

Glen Grant is one of the top producing distilleries in all of Scotland with about half of their production used by Chivas Regal for blending.

It offers everything you might expect or want from a distillery that welcomes visitors, plus elements that you most certainly wouldn't expect.

More specifically, there is the wonderful Glen Grant Garden.

What makes the garden particularly noteworthy is that it turns Glen Grant into an attraction that offers something of interest for the members of the party who are too young for a distillery tour or simply not interested in one. A distillery that provides something for all the family is a rarity indeed.

The Glenlivet Glenlivet was the first legally licensed distillery in Scotland and is now one of the biggest selling single malts in the world.

Founder George Smith had, like many others around that time, been distilling small volumes of whisky illegally, but he was the first to apply for a license once the 1823 Excise Act was put in place.

Many illegal distillers disagreed with the Excise Act and subsequently made threats to Smith’s life, but he persisted, and famously carried a set of pistols for protection.

In 1864, George Smith formed a business relationship with Andrew P. Usher, a whisky agent, and Glenlivet became one of the first distilleries to export its whisky.

Glenlivet was the winner of the Best Visitor Attraction Award at the 2013 Scottish Thistle Awards, and reflected in the visitor experience today.

Speyside distilleries produce a mind-boggling array of whiskies, from rare single malts to popular blends with the fruity aromas or spicy flavours of bourbon or sherry casks.

Glen Moray Glen Moray distillery stands in the neck of a loop in the River Lossie on the western edge of Elgin.

The original road into Elgin passes through the distillery grounds under the shadow of Gallow Hill, where executions were carried out until the end of the 17th century.

The distillery started life as the "West Brewery" in 1831 before being converted to produce whisky in 1897. This unusual history has resulted in a slightly unusual layout, with the core buildings being arranged around a square.

Strathisla This is the oldest licensed distillery in Scotland.

The distillery is best known as the home of Chivas Regal, "the world's most prestigious premium blended Scotch".

It started life as the brewery of the local monastery and turned itself to the making of whisky in 1786, and one of the few distilleries in what is now the Speyside region to go legal.

It is also, without a shadow of doubt, the prettiest distillery in Scotland.

The setting and landscape, the shape of the stone buildings including the triangular section of the still house, the imposing pagodas, and the water wheel all combine to produce an effect that is quite unique.

The layout of the distillery and the confined nature of some of the spaces mean that Strathisla may not be the ideal place in which to try to understand the distilling process for the first time, but this is amply made up for by the sheer charm and character of the place.

If you’ve been fortunate to visit a number of distilleries, after a while, they can be a little difficult to distinguish from one another. Strathisla, however, is unforgettable and you are unlikely ever to confuse it with an-

ywhere else.

Speyside Cooperage Although not a distillery, this is a must-see part of the trail because it is the only working cooperage in the UK. Here, the casks are produced from the best American oak, and they are said to be a fundamental to the whisky making process in Scotland.

The Speyside Cooperage is a remarkable fusion of two very different worlds. The visitors on the one hand, and the industry they have come to see on the other. The front of the cooperage is very focused on the needs of visitors. To one side of the main reception is a very well stocked shop, carrying a rather wider range of goods than you'd find in a typical distillery shop, and, of course, something of an emphasis on craft gifts and wooden products. Beyond the shop is the Speyside Cooperage's coffee shop with tables and chairs, of course, made from casks.

The cooperage effectively does three similar but different jobs. Firstly it builds new casks for use in the brewing industry, which explains the scatter of fresh wood casks you are likely to see on your visit.

The second job is to rebuild American barrels previously used for storing bourbon so they can be used by Scottish distilleries for maturing Scotch whisky.

The third job undertaken at the Speyside Cooperage is the refurbishment and repair of casks already in use by distilleries. In total the Speyside Distillery produces, assembles or repairs over 100,000 casks each year.

When To Visit The best time to travel to Moray and visit the malt whisky trail is in May or September when the whisky festivals are held. However, the distilleries on the trail are open all year round.

Moray Legend MACBETH

Mac Bethad mac Findláich was born in 1005. The last of the Gaelic Kings of Scotland, Macbeth has become less of an historical figure and more a fictional character. Time to put the record straight.

Macbeth was born the same year that his grandfather (Malcolm II) became King of Alba.

His father, Finleigh controlled the province of Moray as Mormaer (high steward of an ancient Celtic province) a powerful and independentminded province that only reluctantly became fully integrated with Alba.

Finleigh had previously lost Moray to Sigurd Hlodvisson “the Stout”, the Jarl of Caithness and Orkney after defeat in battle, at Skitten, in 989.

Later, Malcolm II (Máel Coluim mac Cináeda) attempted to regain the province by force without success. He decided to enter into an alliance with Sigurd. He granted the earldom of Caithness to Sigurd, and the hand of his daughter Olif in marriage, in return for the previously lost provinces.

Malcolm II had also married his first daughter Bethoc to Crínán, the Abbot of Dunkeld and Mormaer of Atholl. His second daughter Doada was married to Finleigh, Mormaer of Moray.

Macbeth was the son of Finleigh and of Doada, the daughter of Malcolm II. By hereditary right he was Mormaer of Ross.

He married Grouch, granddaughter of Kenneth III and widow of the (then) Mormaer of Moray, who fled to him with her infant son Lulach after the slaughter of her husband and fifty of his clan by Malcolm II. Macbeth, therefore, was Thane of Cromarty by inheritance, Thane of Moray by marriage, and both on his wife’s side and his own, had a definite claim to the throne - in fact according to tanist law, he was the immediate heir.

Each of the daughters had a son to their respective husbands. The son of Sigurd was named Thorfinn (Thorfinn Sigurdsson); the son of Crinan was named Duncan (Donnchadmac Crínáin); and the son of Finleigh was named Macbeth (Mac Bethad mac Findláich).

At the age of seven Macbeth was sent away to be educated, a requirement for the children of important chieftains and set by law. The term of study lasted about ten years and was under the tutelage of a Christian monk within his grandfathers court and household.

He was not alone.

Jarl Sigurd died in battle in Ireland when Thorfinn was only 5 years old.

Malcolm II, with whom the boy was a favourite, took steps to provide for him and conferred on him the districts of Caithness and Sutherland with the title of Mormaer.

He also provided the boy Torfinn with the same tutelage that was afforded to Macbeth.

What isn’t clear, is whether Duncan was afforded the same opportunity. Although it does seem likely.

Macbeth’s father died in 1020 (reputedly at the hands of his cousins Malcolm and Gille Coemgáin) and the title of Mormaer passed to Gille Co-

emgáin.

Gille Coemgáin’s death, burnt alive with approximately 50 of his followers at his stronghold, and ordered by Malcolm II, resulted in the election of Macbeth to the title of Mormaer of Moray in 1032.

Thorfinn, in the same period, had also succeeded to the jarldom of Orkney and Shetland. From that point onward he had a divided allegiance.

To Scotland for his earldom and to Norway for his jarldom.

Thorfinn says in the Heimskringla that he was allied to Malcolm II and counted on Malcolm’s support to resist the “tyranny” of Norwegian King Olaf Haraldsson.

In 1034, King Malcolm II died.

On 30 November 1034, Duncan, grandson of Malcolm II, as the tánaíse ríg (the King in Waiting as nominated by Malcolm II) was acclaimed as King Duncan I, High King and successor to the provinces of Alba, at the age of thirty -three.

His initial 6 years reign was uneventful, however, and in his ambition and decision, to open two fronts of expansion, he paid the ultimate price.

Duncan did not share the same relationship, as allies, that his grandfather had with his cousin Thorfinn.

He was determined to recover, by force of arms if necessary, the earldom of Caithness and Sutherland, or to make Thorfinn pay tribute for it.

In 1038, and in a twist of fate, the Earl of Northumbria attacked southern Scotland and was halted

by Duncan I. His generals wanted him to take revenge by invading northern England.

Duncan I, however, had set his mind on invading the Orkneys.

Against the better judgement of his generals, he decided to do both.

In 1040, he opened up two fronts, sending his nephew Moddan to the Orkneys whilst he lead a force south into England.

At Durham, Duncan's cavalry attempted an assault on the fortified city of Durham and were nearly annihilated.

The Northumbrians mounted a counteraction and routed the rest of his army.

Malcolm II, died at Glamis, on 25 November 1034.

The Prophecy of Berchan, says Malcolm died a violent death, and suggests it was a "kinslaying" without actually naming his killers.

Tigernach's chronicle says only: Máel Coluim son of Cináed, king of Alba, the honour of western Europe, died.

While fleeing north in disorder, Duncan I met his nephew Moddan who told him about his own defeat in the Orkneys.

Gathering the remains of his army and drawing on his clans and supporters Duncan I raised a considerable force and advanced north, Duncan by sea, Moddan by land. The aim, simply, was to secure the territory held by Thorfinn.

Duncan landed in Caithness, unknown to Thorfinn who had set sail for Orkney. They were so close to each other that Duncan and his men were able to make out the sails of Thorfinn's ships as he was crossing the Pentland Firth, to cast anchor off Deerness.

There Duncan took the Norwegians completely by surprise.

Naval battles involved the ships grappling each other to create a floating platform on which, to all intents and purposes, a land battle was fought.

Duncan, however, was unsuccessful and retreated to the Moray Firth to recruit fresh troops.

Thorfinn and his foster-father Thorkel pressed their advantage by plundering the shores of the Moray Firth.

Thorkel was then despatched with an army to dispose of Moddan.

At Thurso, Thorkel sliced off Moddan's head as he leapt from his burning house. He then rejoined Thorfinn and the two set out to confront Duncan.

What isn’t clear, up to this point, is the role of Macbeth.

Macbeth was immortalised in the play by William Shakespeare although the play is historically inaccurate.

In Shakespeare's play, Macbeth is portrayed as a good-hearted general when he was ruler of Moray to King Duncan, but is manipulated by his wife Lady Macbeth and three witches into becoming a villainous, depressive maniac haunted by the murder of Duncan.

Macbeth was, by all accounts, one of the King’s most distinguished generals. Whether that reputation was gained in the service of Malcolm II or Duncan I is open to debate.

What is clear, is that on 14 August, 1040, the army of the Jarl of Orkney, was supported in arms by the Mormaer of Moray, Macbeth.

Duncan I, who was supported by reinforcements from Ireland, met Thorfinn in the battle of Torfness (Burghead) at Standing Stone in the parish of Duffus.

Having suffered significant losses the King withdrew from the battle and headed back toward his fleet at Spynie.

Macbeth, who was stationed on the River Lossie, intercepted and defeated the King in a second battle at Pitgaveney (then called Bothnagowan) near Elgin.

Macbeth himself delivered a mortal wound to the King on the battlefield and an act that is in sharp contrast to the Shakespearian play.

It is not clear whether the King died on the battlefield or later of his wound and having first sought refuge in Elgin.

Whilst the slaying of Duncan I may not have been murder, it could reasonably be regarded, on Macbeth’s behalf, as treason.

Later that month Macbeth entered Scone, the Scottish capital, leading the victorious army and with Thorfinn’s support. To the citizens of the capital he presented himself as candidate to the throne.

"If chance will have me king, why, chance may crown me."

(Act I, Scene III) Macbeth, at the age of thirty-five, was crowned High King of Scotland.

He then quickly secured all that was unconquered by the Norwegians and Thorfinn.

In effect, the whole country was virtually under the dominion of the two cousins; Thorfinn himself ruling over the north western provinces, while Macbeth reigned over everything else.

The overthrow of Duncan was the overthrow of an unpopular king with ill judged intentions of expanding into England and the Orkney Kingdom.

Contemporary chroniclers did not write favourably of Duncan, viewing him as a tyrant and oppressor.

They believed that by choosing MacBeth, Scotland had changed to a better ruler.

For the most part Macbeth ruled a relatively peaceful and prosperous kingdom. He and his wife Gruoch were particularly generous to the church, especially to the monastery of Loch Leven in Kinross.

The only domestic disruption during Macbeth's reign occurred in 1045.

Raising some of the southern clans, CrĂ­nĂĄn, the Abbot of Dunkeld and Mormaer of Atholl (father of King Duncan I), met King Macbeth in battle near Dunkeld. After a brief engagement the rebels were defeated and the Mormaer of Atholl killed in the action.

Scotland enjoyed nine years of peace giving Macbeth the opportunity to make a pilgrimage to Rome. There he met the pope and gave alms to the poor as befitting a head of state.

After his return from Rome the political problems of England began affecting his realm. In 1052 Normans fleeing the chaotic situation in England fled north and were welcome in Macbeth's court. By Celtic law and custom, all travellers were always given haven. However, this act of kindness incurred the resentment of powerful English lords.

From 1054 to 1057 Macbeth was under constant assault from his southern neighbour.

In the summer of 1054, Malcolm MacDuncan (son of King Duncan I), and more commonly referred to as Malcolm Ceannmor, accompanied the Earl of Northumbria in an invasion of the southern provinces of Scotland.

On the 27th of July, Macbeth's forces met the invaders at Dunsinnan, close to Scone between Perth and Dundee. The outcome was indecisive, however, Malcolm took control of Cumbria the southernmost province in Scotland - becoming their king.

Malcolm did not gain any support from the Scottish clans, they remained stoutly loyal to their King Macbeth.

The role of the Norwegians and, specifically, that of the son of the King of Norway and Torfinn, the Jarl of Orkney, would, however, play a significant role in Macbeth’s downfall.

Their attempt to invade England, and the destruction of their fleet at sea, prompted a response from the King of England (Edward the Confessor) who sent an army into Scotland to remove the power of the Norwegians.

The end came on August 15, 1057 when, after battle, Malcolm MacDuncan's men killed King Macbeth as he tried to make it to his province, Moray, with a contingent of bodyguards.

His final stand was the Peel-Ring at Lumphanan and here in the end,

seeing the situation desperate, he armed himself, had the gates opened and rode forth “to try his last”.

He received his death wound at Cairnbeth and his horse galloped off with the bleeding King still mounted. After crossing the valley, it carried him round the shoulder of the hill opposite, and two miles northward.

With the death of MacBeth, the Celtic way began a steady decline.

With Malcolm III on the throne, "fundamental changes in the institutions of the kingdom, in the customs; laws and even the church" took place.

It is reasonable to say that in MacBeth Scotland and Moray had its last Celtic ruler.

No man saw Macbeth die. His pursuers found his body on the side of Perk Hill, where he must have dropped from his horse. There, tradition says, he was buried. A cairn, now planted with trees, marks the spot.

His body was finally buried on the holy isle of Iona in a ceremony worthy of a lawful king of Scotland, contrary to Shakespeare's play.

"what 's done is done."

(Act III, Scene II) Despite the portrayal of Macbeth as a murderer and tyrant, history tends to reflect a more just rule during what was the latter period of the Dark Ages in Scotland.

He imposed law and order and encouraged the development of Christianity.

The Irish and Pictish additions to the ‘Historia Britonum’ speak of him as “the vigorous Macbrethack.”

The "Duan Albanach" calls him “Macbeathadh the renowned.”

Macbeth was no more or less brutal or murderous than any other ruler of this time.

Wyntourn writes of Macbeth: All hys tyme was gret plente, Abowndand bath on land and se. He wes in justice rycht lawchfull, And till hys legis all awfull.

TRAVEL FACTS

Visitor Information The main Visitor Information Point in Moray is in Elgin Library, and is operated in partnership with VisitScotland.

Visitor Information Elgin Library Cooper Park Elgin IV30 1HS 01343 562608 visitorinfo@moray.gov.uk Getting Here

By Air Moray is easily accessible from two airports, Aberdeen and Inverness.

Car hire is available at both airports and both provide easy access to the bus service operated by Stagecoach Bluebird.

National and international flights, either direct or by connection, are available from airports within the UK.

By Rail Moray is connected by a regular rail service, operated by First Scotrail, which runs between Aberdeen and Inverness. The route incorporates the towns of Keith, Elgin and Forres.

The First Scotrail service connects stations in the south and specifically Glasgow and Edinburgh with both Inverness and Aberdeen.

By Road Moray can be accessed from a variety of directions by road.

The A96 is the principal link between Aberdeen and Inverness, with Elgin at its centre. Aberdeen is less than one hour's drive and Inverness is approximately 45 minutes. The A9 is the main link from Glasgow, Stirling and Perth and both Edinburgh and Glasgow are less than 4 hours drive by car.

There is a regular bus service which operates between Aberdeen and Inverness, run by Stagecoach Bluebird, with connections throughout the Moray area.

Time Differences Moray observes the same time as the rest of the UK. Between the end of October and the end of March, Greenwich Mean Time operates; therefore, at 12 noon in Elgin it is 8-10pm in Australia, 4-8.30am in Canada, 12 noon in Eire, midnight in New Zealand and 4-7am in the USA. From the end of March to the end of October, British Summertime operates (one hour ahead). There are noticeably longer summer daylight hours in Moray.

Visas and Vaccinations Scotland’s visa requirement are identical to those of the rest of the UK. US citizens need a valid passport, though visas are not required for a stay of less than six months. No special vaccinations are required. Moray’s indigenous biting insect, the midge, is no more than an irritation and

does not pose any serious threat.

Credit Cards Most larger shops, stores, hotels and restaurants in Moray will accept the majority of international credit cards, such as Access, Mastercard, Visa and American Express. It is advisable to carry some cash in case of difficulty.

Driving in Moray Driving in Moray, like the rest of the UK, is on the left side of the road.

In some parts of Moray there are still some single track roads with passing places.

Insurance Visitors bringing their own cards from overseas will require ‘green card insurance’ and should also have in their possession the registration documents of their car.

Driving Licence Any holder of an overseas driving licence may for a period of up to one year drive a motor vehicle in the UK, but only for a class of vehicle which the licence authorises.

Speed Limits On dual carriageway 70mph 112kmh); on single carriageways 60mph (96kmh); in built up areas 30mph/48kmh unless otherwise signposted.

Drinking and Driving The police in Scotland strongly advise against drinking alcohol and driving afterwards. This advice applies to citizens of the UK and overseas visitors alike. Anyone caught driving with more than the legal limit of alcohol in their bloodstream by the police is subject to prosecution.

Medical Insurance If you fall ill in Moray, unless you are a UK or EU citizen, you are eligible only for free emergency treatment at National Health Service Accident and Emergency departments of hospitals. If you are hospitalized even from an Accident and Emergency department or referred to an out -patient clinic, you will be asked to pay. Therefore, you are strongly advised to take out adequate insurance cover before travelling to Moray.

Your travel agent will advise.

Acknowledgements Kim Grant Photography Andy Innes Aerial Photography

Reference Barbara Crawford - The Earldom of Caithness and the Kingdom of Scotland, in Northern Scotland S Driscoll - Power and authority in early historic Scotland John Grant - Survey of the Province of Moray Lachlan Shaw - The History of the Province of Moray S Sinclair - The statistical account of Scotland Wikipedia - various

Dedication This book is dedicated to my life long Partner.

My shining beacon and my life support system whose unflinching support has been pivotal in both success and challenge.

Alison, thank you for all your support, love and patience and for helping me choose the right path.

I could not have done it without you!

Everything You Need to See the Best Of

Moray Throughout this small and unique part of Scotland, history and magnificent scenery are ever present.

From the brooding shadows of mighty castles and the alleyways of medieval towns to the glorious sandy beaches of the Moray Firth and the pine forests of the Cairngorm mountains.

This definitive guide reveals the true glory and character of Moray life and landscape.

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History and culture

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Wildlife and environment

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Where to go and what to see

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Practical information

And more.