Ride the mountain beast

The Land Rovers of Manebhanjyang, more than being a mode of transport, are an institution, says AYANDRALI DUTTA

RIDE RIDE THE THE MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN BEAST BEAST

DARJEELING,the name, conjures up images of tea gardens and the aromatic beverage that has made the place famous. But for adventure lovers, the charm of this town lies in its proximity to Manebhanjyang, the starting point for experiencing the adrenaline rush and thrill of driving a Land Rover to Sandakphu. Most use the cliche —an adventure of a lifetime –—to describe the journey.

Talking of Land Rovers, Manebhanjyang in West Bengal has a prominent historical association with this beast. These vehicles arrived in the Himalayas in the 1940s and were used by the Britishers to access the tea plantations in this region. That’s how initially the first lot of the Series 1 Land Rovers made their way to the place. Between 1958 and 1994, nearly 300 of them were brought into Manebhanjyang with the sole purpose of carrying people and supplies to areas around Sandakphu. Refurbished by the locals these, multi-terrain vehicles, continue to be used today as commercial local transport.

This road has many important check-posts of the Indian Army along the invisible border that divides India and Nepal. Don’t be surprised when over a casual conversation, while sipping tea at a village like Jaubari or Tumling, you realise that you are officially in Nepal!

The distance from Manebhanjyang to Sandakphu is a mere 56 km but it takes around seven hours as roads are practically non-existent for almost half the route. The bad road is compensated by the glorious views as it seems that you are practically sailing through the clouds, albeit, amidst some choppy weather. The sturdiness of these Land Rovers made it possible for them to survive such treacherous roads as these were the only vehicles that could take such a sustained beating.

And these machines, running mostly on kerosene oil instead of diesel, are the lifeblood of this route. Some of these still have the old, metal Great Britain country code ovals riveted to them while others have been fitted with newer engines. The Land Rover Association has imposed a restriction where private vehicles are not allowed (unless there is a special permission) to operate on this route. Each driver is so well-trained that he can do a return journey on the same day unless one wants to witness the golden sunrise of the Mount Kanchenjunga. On a clear day one can see four of the five highest mountain peaks in the world from Sandakphu (in between fourth and fifth highest peaks is Mount Everest).

So, take this trip and the adrenaline junkie in you shall be rewarded.

GETTING THERE

Bagdogra is the nearest airport. Manebhanjyang is 80 km by road from here. Where to stay: Sherpa Chalet Lodge and Sunrise Hotel are the two options to stay at Sandakphu. A few homes also take in travellers.