Experience the Burgess Shale

As we climb higher and higher up the mountainside, the views of Takakkaw Falls just keep getting better and better. We stop often to rest, snap photos, and gaze at the torrent of water plunging down the sheer rock wall that towers over everything. The trail is steep and rocky and not for the faint of heart. But this was not a surprise. Our group of 12 wide-eyed explorers seems up for the challenge. And, the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, keeps us moving onwards and upwards.

Located at an elevation of 2,286 m near the town of Field, the Walcott Quarry is one of the most important fossil deposits in the world. It is the most famous of the three Burgess Shale sites that you can visit in the region. Situated high on a mountainside in Yoho National Park, it was also designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980.

Photo Courtesy of Burgess Shale Geoscience Foundation

Charles Walcott, a paleontologist, discovered the Burgess Shale in 1909. Not surprisingly, given the strange fossils and the sheer number he found, he visited again the next year. Then the next. In fact, Walcott visited the site virtually every year until his death in 1927, at the age of 74. By that time, he had collected over 65,000 fossils while categorizing the strange specimens, most of which had never been recorded before.

In the 1960s, after a thorough reinvestigation of the site, it was discovered that Walcott had barely scratched the surface into the significance and rarity of his findings. The fossils, many of which had little resemblance to modern life forms, were absolutely bizarre, like they were from another planet. Some of the creatures had five eyes, hose-like snouts, and walked upside down on symmetrical spines.

Long story short, the other-worldly fossils of the Burgess Shale are from earth. And they are old. Very old. Way older than the dinosaurs! They date back 508-million years, from the middle Cambrian era. It’s believed they were exquisitely preserved (in black shale) because of the lack of oxygen. The soft-bodied organisms, some with recognizable fluids and the remains of other creatures inside of them, are, literally, everywhere on the sites. And there are only a few places on the entire planet where you can see and photograph them.

Photo Courtesy of Bookman’s Travel Reports

Not surprisingly, when you visit any of the Burgess Shale sites you cannot take anything away. It’s against the law. However, visitors are allowed to photograph the specimens and make paper copies, or imprints, of the fossils when they visit.

While the Walcott Quarry, which requires a difficult day-hike to get to, is the most famous of the Burgess Shale sites, Parks Canada offers additional tours to two other amazing Burgess Shale sites. (You cannot visit any of the sites on your own. They are protected, and you must visit with a guide.)

Photo Courtesy of Blonde Coyote

Here is a closer look at the three options that are available. And, yes, they all require some “sweat equity” to reach.

1. The Walcott Quarry. A strenuous adventure that takes 11 hours. Together with your guide and 12 hikers max, you will leave the trailhead near the base of Takakkaw Falls at 7am and not return until 6pm. You must be over 8 years of age to participate. The elevation gain is 825m. Cost: $70

2. Mount Stephen. This is a steep, difficult hike (poles are mandatory) and takes 7.5 hours. The tour departs at 7am and returns at 2:30pm. The return distance is 8 km and the elevation gain is a whopping 795m. This hike starts and ends at the Visitor Center in Field, BC. Cost: $55

3. Stanley Glacier. While this is the easiest of the three sites to access, it’s not a piece of cake! The hike covers 10 km and gains 450m of elevation. The duration of the tour is 7.5 hours, departing at 8am and returning at 3:30pm. This hike departs at the Stanley Glacier Trailhead, which is located on Highway 93 near Vermillion Pass. Cost: $55.

Photo Courtesy of The Fossil Forum

There is plenty of additional information you’ll want to know before participating in any of these hikes. Obviously, none are recommended for anyone with recurring back, knee, or ankle injuries. They are strenuous! For more information and to book your unforgettable Burgess Shale Adventure please visit pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/yoho/activ/burgess.

By: Andrew Penner