2022 Experience The Mountain Parks

Experience the Mountain Parks

Welcome to Canada’s Mountain National Parks!

Welcome to the 17th edition of Experience the Mountain Parks. With its roots in the Parks Canada Mountain Guide, ours is now the ONLY visitor’s guide to the many activities, attractions, events, and stunning landscapes across all 7 of the mountain national parks within Alberta & BC!

In this traveller’s companion, you’ll discover incredible experiences within the region, through compelling stories & images. And you’ll love our user-friendly maps! Keep it handy and expect to refer to it often.

Whether you are exploring the mountain parks as a couple, a young family on a staycation, with your grandchildren

on a “grand-cation”, or just sightseeing on your own, we’re here to help! The themed tours in this guide will not only highlight the major attractions, but we’ll unveil numerous hidden gems throughout the parks.

Our stories offer safe and fun activities that often contain educational components. You will love our coverage of communities and our contributors pull back the curtain on the rich history within the region.

We sincerely hope you have a magical time here and are truly honoured to be of service.

Christine Weston

To download this, or any of our Travel Guides & Maps to your mobile device, go to ExperienceTravelGuides.com/Library

Our Contributors

Kerry Robins believes in authenticity, and has a casual conversation with her audience. Her writing spans two decades. She is a storyteller at heart and an independent writer for various magazines. Alberta’s mountain sceneries inspire her. She appreciates nature and feels at home when she is outside enjoying all-season activities.

Chic Scott has devoted his life to skiing and climbing. Chic is an honourary member of the Calgary Mountain Club, Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and Alpine Club of Canada. A recipient of the Banff Mountain Film Festival Summit of Excellence Award, Chic lives in Banff, where he continues to write, lecture and, of course, ski.

Graeme Pole is the best-selling author of thirteen books that describe the natural history and the human history of western Canada. Three of his titles have been finalists in the Banff Mountain Book Festival. His most recent is the novel, Siren Call.

Visit his website: mountainvision.ca

Allen R. Gibson is a writer and marketer who’s enjoyed Western Canadian road trips since childhood. He shares his love of the west through travel writing and as a tour guide with Insight Vacations, when he’s not helping tourism businesses with their marketing.

Allen can be reached at EightStarTours@gmail.com

Andrew Penner is an independent writer and photographer living in Calgary, Alberta. His work has been featured in Westworld, Westjet Magazine, Golf Magazine, Golf Tips, Golf Canada, and many leading golf and lifestyle publications. When not travelling or working, he enjoys reading, movies, and chilling out in the backyard with his wife, Dawn, and their four boys.

Experience the Mountain Parks

Welcome to the 2022 – 2023 Edition

Use it to plan your holiday and as your travelling companion once you’ve arrived.

Experience Publishing is a privately-owned company with offices in Calgary, Alberta. We specialize in the production of our Experience Travel Guides & Maps in print as well as digital formats. Printed copies are delivered to our network of distribution outlets through out Alberta and BC and into Montana and Saskatchewan. Travellers are encouraged to pick up a FREE printed copy through these outlets or use a mobile-friendly copy of this, or any of our current or archived guides from ExperienceTravelGuides.com/library.

We wish to thank Parks Canada, Travel Alberta, Waterton Chamber of Commerce, Tourism Golden, Destination BC and all of our contributors, sponsors, and advertising partners for their generous support.

Please support our advertisers and sponsors. If you get the chance, kindly mention where you saw their ad. Without their support this guide would not be possible.

Founder: Bob Harris, CMI Publishing bob@ExperiencePublishing.ca

Publisher: Christine Weston christine@ExperiencePublishing.ca Ph: 403-479-2849

Cartographer: Rob Storeshaw robstoreshaw@shaw.ca

Book Keeper: Adrienne Albrecht adrienne@ExperiencePublishing.ca

Advertising Sales Reps: Allen Gibson, Brian Peck, Joseph Macdonald,

Circulation: Allen Gibson, Dale & Kelly Schultz, Warren & Sandy Pearson, David Saxby.

Distribution Outlets: Free copies available through most Visitor Information Centres, AMA travel offices, retail stores, attractions, and hotels & motels in the region. For a complete list: experiencemountainparks.com/our-distributors

Cover photo: Medicine Lake, JNP, Jeff Bartlett @photojbartlett

Share Your Experience: Upload your photos to be eligible to win great prizes ExperienceTravelGuides.com/Contests

Follow us @ExperienceTravelGuides

Table of Contents

Destinations

Banff National Park 14

Glacier National Park 62 Golden 55 Hinton 40

Jasper National Park 32 Kootenay Rockies 46 Kootenay National Park 47 Radium Hot Springs 50 Waterton Lakes National Park 10 Wells Gray Provincial Park 43 West Kootenays 64 Yellowhead County 42 Yoho National Park 52

Specialty Pages

A Rocky Mountain Original 18

Campground Directory 66

Discover Craft Beer 44

Experience Cycling in the Mountain Parks 26 Experience the Icefields Parkway 30 Flora and Fauna in the Mountain Parks 28 Hidden Gems 36, 49, 54

Hit the Highway with an RV 6 Photo Contest 48

Postcards from the Parks 8 Rocky Mountain High 24 Stand Up Paddleboarding 22 The Golden Triangle 60

Map Pages

Alberta 7

Banff National Park 15

Banff Townsite 17

Bow Valley Parkway 20 British Columbia 42 Columbia Valley 46

Glacier & Mt. Revelstoke National Parks 63

Icefields Parkway 34 & 35

Jasper National Park 32

Jasper Townsite 39 Kootenay National Park 47 Lake Louise Townsite 21

Radium Hot Springs Townsite 51 Waterton Lakes National Park 13 West Kootenays 64 Yoho National Park 53

Hit the Highway with an RV

As we approached Fairmont Hot Springs, the steam from the hot pools visible from the highway, our plan suddenly changed. As it turned out, we would not make it to Golden that day. The hot pools were calling. And we needed to go. Ah, yes, the “change the plan on the fly program.” Just one of the many benefits of RVing!

Indeed, cruising down the highway with a luxurious houseon-wheels - last spring our family rented a cozy CanaDream RV that comfortably slept five - is definitely something to add to your bucket list. RVing is synonymous with exploration and adventure. The world is your oyster! You can take the roads less travelled. And you can see them in a whole new way.

As we discovered, hitting the road with an RV opens the door to so much more than what’s possible when you travel with an automobile. With an RV, you’re self-contained. You have freedom to roam. The pressure is off! Jam-packed hotels, busy restaurants, keeping a tight schedule, these are not exactly

relevant when you’ve got your own home sitting right there behind the cab.

Granted, there are plenty of tricks-of-the-trade when it comes to RVing. On our spring journey down the legendary Powder Highway in the Kootenay Rockies (yes, you can RV in winter!) there were some important lessons learned. Like, for example, if you’re travelling in winter, bring a shovel! During our over night stay in the parking lot at the Kimberley Alpine Resort, we received 40 centimeters of pillow-soft powder overnight. Needless to say, when it was time to move on, digging out our “home” with only the aid of our skis took a little longer than expected! But, man, the skiing was epic! The Powder Highway certainly lived up to expectations.

Of course, there are hundreds of options in terms of places to go and things to experience. In summer, the Powder Highway becomes a playground filled with pristine lakes and endless places to explore and experience. In terms of destinations to

Jasper National Park Photo Courtesy of Parks Canada / Rogier Gruys

Hit the Highway with an RV

travel to, another one of my favourites is the Slocan Valley. Under-the-radar towns and villages like Nakusp, New Denver, and Winlaw are prime places for the RVing way of life.

And of course, in terms of additional tips for newbie RVers, I’ve compiled a few more (with some help from CanaDream, one of the largest RV rental companies in Canada).

1. Don’t Drive Too Much In One Day

CanaDream recommends 3-4 hrs maximum driving time per day. You should allow plenty of time to recreate out doors! Visit a winery, hike to a lookout, sit on a beach. This, ultimately, is why you’re on the road to begin with.

2. Get The Right RV

So you’re a newbie and have no clue which RV is right for your party? And you’ve also never driven one before? Not a problem! All the reputable RV rental companies, including CanaDream, will make sure you are set up with the perfect vehicle based on the number of people in your party. They will walk you through every detail and there are online tutorials you can take as well.

3. Keep An Eye Out For Special Offers

Every week new online specials are offered. One-way relocation specials (RVs go from A to B but sometimes don’t come back to A, depending on a party’s travel plans!) are very common. Check often!

4. Do Your Research

Planning a general route and booking the most popular RV parks (if you want to go that route) can save you some frustration along the way. CanaDream has a Trip Planner tool that allows you to completely customize your travels. They also have plenty of information on over 1,000 camp grounds, activities, tours, and attractions.

5. Be Flexible

Altering your original plan - you cand and will discover the unexpected! - as you “cruise” along is not something

to fear. It’s something to embrace! Take advantage of those really special locations that speak to you.

6. Plan Your Meals

Preparing food, BBQing, s’mores by the campfire, stock ing the cooler, it’s a big part of the fun when you’re RVing. There is plenty of space for food in an RV, including a bigger-than-you-think refrigerator and freezer. Load up and plan your awesome gourmet meals!

Regardless of which “home” you decide to choose, which road you travel, and what, exactly, you pack in your cooler, an RV adventure is going to leave you and your clan with many, many magnificent memories. My final tip? Just do it!

By: Andrew Penner

Be sure to book your reservations in advance and enjoy the adventure!

Postcards from the Parks

If you were a globetrotting landscape photographer and could only take one more breathtaking image, where would you go? What would you shoot? Maritime seascape? Remote desert scene in Africa? Burning lava flows in Hawaii? For many “shooters,” the answer would be a majestic, postcard-perfect scene in the Canadian Rockies. Indeed, the baby-blue lakes, rushing rivers, and jagged, snow-dusted mountains in Alberta and British Columbia, can make for the ultimate photographic prize.

Perhaps the challenge, if you could only choose one location in the mountain parks, would be just that. Choosing just one! Here are five locations that would do just fine for your final postcard.

Lake O’Hara: Getting into the remote Lake O’Hara region – you need to be on the ball and book a seat on the bus (serviced by Parks Canada) or walk up the 11 km road – is not a piece of cake. However, if you find your way there you’ll be rewarded. The region is peppered with lakes, tarns, cirques, crystal-clear streams, and soaring mountains.

Moraine Lake: Good enough to be featured on the Canadian $20 bill for decades, the Valley of the Ten Peaks, as seen from the rock pile at the east end of Moraine Lake, is one of the most famous scenes in the Canadian Rockies. Capture this in the morning, when low-angled light paints the peaks, and you’ve got a keepsake to cherish.

Vermillion Lakes: If you’re staying in Banff, you don’t have to venture far to find some sweet scenes. The Vermillion Lakes Road serves up classic photo-ops that have been shuttered by thousands of visitors. True, you won’t be alone here, but the beauty of Mount Rundle reflected in the calm water of the spring-fed lakes is a shot every serious landscape photographer needs in their portfolio.

Spirit Island: Made famous thanks to an image capturing its surreal beauty was hung in Grand Central Station for over forty years, Spirit Island is the quintessential Canadian Rockies shot. The clutch of pines on the island, the lake, the mountains, it’s simply sublime. From Jasper, drive to Maligne Lake and for $71/adult take the 1.5 hr classic cruise to reach the island and snag your shot. Unfortunately, it’s a quick stop so make sure you’re first off the boat! Or, better yet, take the Premium cruise ($101/adult), a 2 hour tour geared for photographers. (see pg2)

Waterton Lakes National Park: Perched on the wind-blasted bluff above the lake, the historic Prince of Wales Hotel is a striking subject in this classic scene. Getting the shot is simple: pull over when the hotel comes into view and shoot until your heart is content. In fall, when the aspens go gold, the scene can really “pop.”

Story and Photos By Andrew Penner

Alberta Fast Facts

Capital City: Edmonton Population: 4.37 million

History: Entered Canadian Confederation in 1905

Total Area: 661,848 km sq/255,541 mi sq

Highest Point: Mount Columbia, 3,747 m/12,293 ft

Lowest Point: Slave River, 152 m/499 ft above sea level

Longest River: Peace River, 1,923 km/1,195 mi

Provincial Flower: Wild Rose

Provincial Tree: Lodgepole Pine

Provincial Bird: Great Horned Owl

Provincial Fish: Bull Trout

Provincial Motto: “Strong and Free”

Experience Alberta

Experience Waterton Lakes National Park

As a child, I was lucky to have grandparents who lived 60 km away from Waterton Lakes National Park. On hot summer days, my siblings - or cousins - and I would beg one of the adults to take us there for the day. We would head straight to the outdoor pool, rent green bathing suits for one dollar, and go for a swim. After that, a picnic of fried chicken and baked beans made for a perfect summer day.

Waterton seemed to be mine. We roamed freely, there was nothing to trouble us. We learned to respect the wilderness, were taught by our parents that bears needed their distance, and learned the hard way that the water in the Waterton Lakes is freezing, always freezing, no matter how hot the day. I’ve been working on my rock skipping skills my entire life, and nowhere, absolutely nowhere that I have been, has rocks as smooth and round and pancake flat as does Waterton.

Waterton changed very little since my childhood until recent years. The 2017 Kenow Fire burned 80% of the hiking trails,

many of which are still to reopen. That fire also destroyed the original Visitors’ Centre, a charming stone building nestled beneath The Bear’s Hump on the edge of town. Now, three years after the fire, Waterton’s beauty is even more unique.

A hike on one of the trails will take you through a kaleidoscope of wild mountain colour. Imagine a patchwork quilt with blue lupine and purple bee balm blooming in vast drifts, with the bright green of ash-fertilized grass and nodding white daisies sprinkled with the pink of Alberta roses. All this colour is set against black tree trunks and backed by an Alberta blue sky.

Waterton is unique. Wildflowers grow there that are found in few other places in the Rockies. It is part of the Crown of the Continent ecosystem, biologically and physically diverse, and then... there’s that wind. Strong enough to blow a two-burner campstove, lit and with a pot of bubbling porridge on it, across a picnic table, or to lift a tent with a sleeping family of five right off the ground, Waterton’s winds are legendary. They shape the

The 2017 Kenow Wildfire impacted Waterton Lakes National Park areas and facilities. To find out what is currently open and closed in the park, please visit pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/ab/waterton/visit/ideale_best

Experience Waterton Lakes National Park

forests and sculpt the hills. There’s a local saying, “If it isn’t windy, it isn’t Waterton.”

Waterton Park was set aside in 1895, nestled in the southwest corner of the Province of Alberta, it borders Glacier National Park in the State of Montana, USA. In 1931, Rotary Clubs from each region suggested the two parks be joined, creating the first International Peace Park in the world. A symbol of friendship, this partnership also creates cooperation in the stewardship of this unique area. Hikers can put their boots on in Canada, and hike in the United States.

It is also a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The Triple Crown Hikes: Crypt Lake, the Carthew-Alderson and Akamina Ridge trails are all world-class bucket-list hikes. The Triple Crown Challenge of completing all three hikes – a total distance of 55.2 km – in one summer, will get you bragging rights, a commemorative pin, and your name in lights a local café.

Waterton has a year-round population of about 300. In summer those numbers swell into the thousands, but it was made for

walking. The town itself is only six by four streets wide, so park your car and walk everywhere. Walk the path on the shore of the lakes, find a perfect skipping rock and see how many times you can make it bounce across the water. But study the rock and notice the colour of it before you send it off. Waterton’s fascinating geology has resulted in names such as Red Rock Canyon, and colourful red and green argillite stones that in spired this name can be found on the beaches, sand, riverbeds, and waterfall-cut canyons, as well as in man-made habitats, put to use forming old rock walls, the foundations of the older buildings in town, even as part of sidewalks.

Waterton’s unique character is a treasure. A designation as respected as the UNESCO Biosphere term should be coined to commemorate its charm, beauty, and simplicity. So, Happy Anniversary Waterton! May your gentle charms remind us to slow down, wild winds make us feel alive, wildflowers dazzle us, your many bears demand our complete respect (and very safe distance) and may your representation of peace as well as cooperation help us to understand one another.

By: Lisa Christensen

Photos Courtesy of Robin Laurenson

Alpine Stables

Come visit Alpine Stables and experience spectacular scenery on horse back in Waterton Lakes National Park!

Alpine Stables has seen a lot of changes in the last 50 years, including multiple floods, changes in Waterton landmarks and growth of our family, now in the 5th generation. One of the biggest changes being the Kenow Fire of 2017 where all of Alpine Stables’ buildings were lost.

What remains is our love for Waterton and sharing the natural and cultural history with visitors from around the world. Since 1969-we are proud to partner with Parks Canada in showcasing this remarkable place.

Experience Banff National Park

Banff National Park (BNP) runs northwesterly from Canmore to the Columbia Icefield. This is the birthplace of Canada’s national park system. Established in 1885, after three railway workers discovered hot springs, BNP has become a world class destination. The park now hosts an estimated 4 million visitors each year. Our map on pg 15 details eight of the many popular attractions and provides the locations of the campgrounds.

The international airports in Calgary and Edmonton serve travellers flying into the region. Buses run to BNP year-round, from each of these large urban centres. In addition, both Via Rail and Rocky Mountaineer Vacations operate rail passenger sightseeing trips in western Canada, with stops in Banff and Jasper from May to October.

Within BNP are two important communities: The Town of Banff and the Village of Lake Louise. It’s easy to get around either community without your vehicle. That’s great because parking is at a premium and some lots cannot accommodate large vehicles such as RVs. Municipal lots and street parking and are free but have time restrictions. “Roam” is the name of the local public transit system. You’ll find our map of the Town of Banff on pg 17, along with 15 map keys starting on pg 18, to ensure a magical time.

With a record number of visitors in the national parks each of the past few years, the owners of HopOnBanff claim that since 2017, their service has changed the way visitors see the Park. Buy a Day Pass, hop on and hop off as you like, and avoid the hassle of finding a parking spot. HopOnBanff is affordable, safe, and eco-friendly.

The Legacy Trail runs 26 km along the highway right-of-way between Banff and Canmore. Part of The Great Trail, formerly the Trans-Canada Trail, it is a popular paved, recreational trail suitable for walking, bicycling, and in-line skating. Note: riding from Canmore to Banff is mainly uphill and typically into the wind, so expect it to take twice as long to ride to Banff as it takes you to ride to Canmore.

Located 45 min west of Banff is the Village of Lake Louise. The mountains that surround are internationally renowned for their majestic beauty. Lake Louise is often referred to as the Hiking Capital of Canada. In the summer, go for a simple stroll around the lake, a physically demanding climb, or be whisked away in a gondola to the top of the world.

You will find our map of Lake Louise on pg 21 along with important map keys.

Pick up a copy of Experience Western Adventures & Cowboy Trails for an authentic western adventure or download it ExperienceTravelGuides.com

COLUMBIABRITISHALBERTA

Banff National Park Map Keys

Along the Trans-Canada Highway 1 Drive with care on this busy thoroughfare. Look for five animal overpasses just between Banff and Lake Louise, one more west of Lake Louise, all built to allow wildlife to cross the road safely.

The Town of Banff - All Services Visitor Centre 224 Banff Ave & 327 Railway Ave.

Along the Bow Valley Parkway Hwy 1A Stop at roadside viewpoints and interpretive exhibits along this scenic road between Banff and Lake Louise. See Pg 21

Experience Banff National Park

Banff National Park Map Keys

See map page 17

Johnston Canyon

25 km (30 min) from Banff

Exciting cat-walks cling to the canyon walls. Interpretive Display, 1.1 km (20 min) to the Lower Falls, 2.7 km to the Upper Falls. Stay on the trail and away from the edge.

Village of Lake Louise - Most Services Parks Canada Visitor Centre by Samson Mall. Ride the Gondola mid-May to mid-Oct. “The Hiking Capital of Canada” reflects the best high elevation hiking in the Rockies - including the Plain of Six Glaciers, and the famous Iceline Trail in Yoho National Park. See pg 23 for Shuttle Service

Along the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93

Named for the series of glaciers lining this route, the parkway is one of the world’s great mountain highroads. This drive along the “backbone of the continent” from Lake Louise to the town of Jasper takes half a day, with time to stop and admire the views. Stock up on camera supplies. For details turn to pg 34 & 35

Crowfoot Glacier

34 km (25 min) from Lake Louise

A century ago, there were three “toes” of ice here. How many can you see today?

Bow Summit and Peyto Lake Viewpoint

40 km (30 min) from Lake Louise - Interpretive Display 2088 m (6849’) above sea level. A short walk from the parking area leads to a view of brilliant turquoise Peyto Lake and, in July and August, an astonishing array of alpine flowers.

Mistaya Canyon

72 km (50 min) from Lake Louise Only 10 min by trail from the road. Look for rounded potholes and a natural arch on the canyon walls.

Saskatchewan Crossing

77 km (55 min) from Lake Louise - Interpretive Display

Three rivers converge here: the Mistaya (Great Bear) River from the south, the Howse River from the west (the route used in 1807 by David Thompson to cross the Great Divide), the North Saskatchewan from the north - arising in the Columbia Icefield and emptying into Lake Winnipeg. Services available April - October.

Columbia Icefield and Info Centre 130 km (1.5 hrs) from Lake Louise 90 min Motorized Tours take you onto the glacier. Glacier Exhibits illustrate the effects of global warming. Restaurant, picnics, rooms, guided ice walks and more. Most Services available May 1 - Oct 15.

Banff Townsite Map Keys

See map page 19

Parks Canada Visitor Centre

224 Banff Avenue and 327 Railway Avenue 403-762-1550

Cave & Basin National Historic Site 311 Cave Avenue. The birthplace of Canada’s national park system.

Banff Park Museum National Historic Site

91 Banff Ave (by the Bow River Bridge) Discover Banff’s wildlife 403-762-1558

The Cascades of Time Garden

Flower gardens with walking path behind the Banff Park Administration Building. Great for families: FREE ADMISSION. Open Daily.

Bow Falls & Banff Springs

Hotel National Historic Site

Magnificent views from either side of the Bow River.

Upper Hot Springs Pool

1-800-767-1611 Mountain Avenue. Heritage Bath House Locker, swimsuit and towel rentals, Café, and Gift Shop. Open year-round. Summer 9 am - 11 pm. hotsprings.ca

Banff Gondola & Sulphur Mountain

1-800-760-6934 Mountain Avenue. Open year-round. Take the Gondola to the summit for breathtaking views. Interpretive boardwalk to historic exhibit.

Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum 403-762-2388 1 Birch Avenue. Aboriginal history, displays, live performances and demonstrations. Operated by several First Nations including the Cree, the Blackfoot Confederacy, Tsuu T’ina and the Stoney. buffalonationsmuseum.ca.

Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies

403-762-2291 111 Bear Street. Brings mountain history, art and culture alive. Special learning programs for young children. whyte.org.

Vermilion Lakes

The turnoff is 1 km west of Banff, on the south side of the Trans-Canada Highway. Enjoy views of Mount Rundle from the pull-outs along this road.

Cascade Ponds (Minnewanka Loop)

10 min - A favourite with locals and visitors alike. Grassy meadows, clear shallow pools, and a small beach. Picnic areas with fire pits. Accessible on foot and bicycle via Banff Legacy Trail.

Red Paintbrush - Courtesy of Lloyd Dykstra

Baby Bear - Courtesy of Hilke Beuck

Daisy - Courtesy of James Anderson

Elk - Courtesy of Wendy Anderson

Experience Banff

Banff Townsite Map Keys

Continued from page 18

Bankhead (Minnewanka Loop)

Charming short and easy stroll through the surface workings of the coal mine and the outline of the old town site. Picnic area and trailhead. Road closed in winter.

Lake Minnewanka (Lake of the Water Spirits)

Boat tours available, 800-760-6934

Leisurely lakeside stroll to Stewart Canyon (30 min).

Johnson Lake (Minnewanka Loop)

An easy trail circles this shallow lake. A small beach and good wildlife watching. Picnic tables.

The Hoodoos (Tunnel Mountain Road)

A short interpretive trail leads to this superb view point, or book a rafting trip to view the Hoodoos from the Bow River.

BowRiver

A Rocky Mountain Original - Bill Peyto

and prospecting. Eventually he settled down in Banff, a small frontier town that was just getting started.

The Canadian Pacific Railway at that time was bringing mountain climbers and adventure seekers to their new hotels in the Rocky Mountains and guides were needed to lead them through the wilderness. This line of work appealed to Bill and he started working for guide and outfitter Tom Wilson in 1894.

Over the next 1/2 dozen years Peyto was involved in some of the most important early explorations and climbs in the Canadian Rockies: the exploration of Mount Assiniboine in 1895; the first ascent of Mount Athabasca in 1898 with J. Norman Collie; the exploration of the Yoho Valley in 1901 with Edward Whymper and the first ascent of Mount Assiniboine in 1901 with Sir James Outram.

Norman Collie described Peyto: “[He] made an ideal picture of the wild west, mounted as he was on an Indian steed, with Mexican stirrups. A great sombrero hat pushed to one side, a buckskin shirt ornate with Indian fringes on sleeves and seams, and cartridge belt holding a hunting knife and a six-shooter, recalled the romantic days of old when this was the costume throughout the entire west.”

“He was efficient, daring, highly imaginative, an excellent man with the horses and a good friend. He spoke in a low, quiet voice of a true westerner, but even so he spoke rarely. His forte was doing things, not talking about them.” (Walter Wilcox)

Ebenezer William Peyto (pronounced Peetoe) was a Rocky Mountain original, one of the most colourful characters ever seen in the Bow Valley area. He was a guide and an outfitter, prospector, soldier and early Banff National Park Warden.

He was born February 14, 1869, in Welling, Kent, not far from London, England, Peyto was the third son in a large family of nine. He emigrated to Canada in 1887 when he was 18 years old.

For the first several years he travelled in and around western Canada, working for the CPR, homesteading near Cochrane

Bill Peyto was a brave and daring soldier who served his country well, first in the Lord Strathcona Horse Regiment in the Boer War where he saw lots of action.

Back in Canada, Bill fell in love and married Emily Wood on January 6, 1902. A son, Robert (Robin) W.F. Peyto was born on Nov 19, 1904. These were some of the best years of Bill’s life and he was tremendously happy. But the marriage ended in tragedy when Emily died suddenly on Sept. 6, 1906. This broke Bill’s heart and that year he gave up guiding. For the next few years he lived a solitary life, keeping himself busy trapping and prospecting. Much of his time he spent at his cabin, which he called Bookrest, high in the mountains near Simpson Pass, where he had a copper mine. His son, Robert, went to the Okanagan to live with relatives.

A Rocky Mountain Original - Bill Peyto

In 1913 Bill was hired as one of the first wardens in Banff National Park, where he patrolled the Healy Creek/Sunshine District keeping his eye out for poachers.

In 1915 Bill again signed up for military service, although he was 46 years old. He served in the Twelfth Mounted Regiment and Machine Gun Brigade in Belgium and France and was wounded in his right leg by a piece of shrapnel at the Battle of Ypres on June 2, 1916.

He returned to Canada about a year later and went back to his duties as a warden, enforcing park regulations and served until 1936 when he retired.

Bill is famous for his wild escapades and many stories abound. One that is often told is the time he brought a live lynx that he had trapped, tied up securely to a pack frame, into a bar

in Banff. According to historian Ted Hart he released the cat, “and stood back to enjoy the scene as it proceeded to wreak havoc among the terrified victims.”

Bill married a second time, in 1921 to Ethel Wells, and lived quietly in Banff. He tried to sign up to fight in WWII but, at 70 years of age, he was deemed to old. He died on March 23, 1943.

Bill Peyto’s presence is still felt in Banff in many ways. For several decades a large sign with a photo of a wild-eyed Peyto greeted tourists as they entered the town. Peyto Glacier, Peyto Lake and Peyto Peak, along the Icefields Parkway are all named for him. There is a book about him and singer/song writer Corrie Brewster even wrote a song about Bill. His grave, in the Old Banff Cemetery, is much visited by those who enjoy the old stories of Banff.

By: Chic Scott

Experience the Bow Valley Parkway

Johnston Canyon - Courtesy of: Leighton Lum

This travel restriction will allow wildlife to move unimpeded across the landscape, use high-quality habitat, and engage in normal behaviour. It is part of a larger action plan to ensure the ecologically rich Bow Valley Parkway area continues as a worldclass setting for visitors to learn about and experience the park, and as a safe environment for wildlife. All businesses remain open during this period of mandatory travel restriction and are easily accessible via the Castle Junction exit.

Banff/Lake Louise

Campground Directory on pg 66

legend on page 67

REACH NEW PEAKS! OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK, JUNE 24 - SEPT 11, 2022. LEARN MORE AT BANFFSUNSHINEMEADOWS.COM

Experience Lake Louise

Lake Louise Visitor Centre at Samson Mall

Banff/Lake Louise Tourism 403-762-8421. Parks Canada Visitor Centre 403-522-3833. Gift Shop. Open 7 days a week. For hours visit: pc.gc.ca/banff.

Lake Louise - 5 min from the Village Stoney Indians called it the "Lake of Little Fishes" The easy stroll around the lakeshore is stunning. Access point for more difficult hikes.

Moraine Lake - 20 min from the Village Nestled in the Valley of the Ten Peaks. Hiking restrictions when grizzly bears in the area: tight groups of 4+ hikers. Open late May to early Oct.

Lake Louise Sightseeing Gondola

4.5 km from the village; 403-522-3555 Summer Gondola runs mid-May to mid-Oct. but come back to ski early Nov. to mid-May.

Parks Canada has made a number of changes for the 2022 season visit parkscanada.gc.ca for up-to-date information.

Stand Up Paddleboarding

Stand up Paddleboarding (SUP) is one of the most popular water sports across the world today, and what better place to try it than on one of our beautiful mountain lakes? Paddlers can glide across tranquil waters with loons calling in the back ground at sunrise, or catch some easy waves while riding the Bow River from Banff to Canmore. For more of an adventure, try the newest craze to hit the Rockies. Rent an inflatable board and go SUP Hiking to pristine backcountry lakes.

Getting Started – Where to Rent and Get Outfitted

Before you jump on the lake, you’ll need to equip yourself with a board, paddle, and personal floatation device (pfd). A rental package will usually include an ankle leash, and includes other safety gear such as a whistle and a rescue throw bag which are both required by all paddlers in Canada.

There aren’t many lakeside rental companies operating in the Rockies so you may want to rent a board in Calgary, Canmore, or Banff and transport it to your destination. Inflatable boards are the easiest to transport, and the Banff Canoe Club rents them out by the day with a pump and all required gear. The Kananaskis Outfitters rents boards on weekends at the Barrier Lake Day Use Area in Kananaskis.

Nervous to try SUP for the first time without a lesson? Bow Valley SUP, operating out of the Banff and Canmore area, can get you set up with a lesson, rental, and guided first trip. They also offer family-friendly trips and a rental service for those wanting to head out alone.

Top 10 Lakes to SUP Across the Canadian Rockies

1. Vermillion Lakes, Banff—These three lakes are located next to the Banff townsite and provide great opportunities for wildlife viewing. Mt. Rundle provides a stunning backdrop and the water is usually calm for novice paddlers. There are docks located along Vermillion Lakes Drive at each lake and parking can be found along the side of the road. The first lake can also be reached from the Banff Canoe Club docks in town by paddling up Echo Creek. This trip offers beginners a chance to try moving water with a small current that can be paddled both up and downstream.

2. Two Jack Lake and Johnson Lake, Banff—These two lakes are located just outside of town on Lake Minnewanka Loop Rd. Lake Minnewanka is a great place to paddle, however wind and big waves make it much more dangerous than the smaller Two Jack and Johnson Lakes. Both lakes have day use parking with beach areas for families.

3. Lake Louise and Moraine Lake—These iconic Banff lakes should be on every paddler’s bucket list. Views don’t get better than from Lake Louise with Mt. Victoria as your backdrop, or from Moraine Lake circled by the 10 classic peaks that were featured on the Canadian 20 dollar bill.

4. Bow Lake, Banff—This lake is the crown jewel for paddlers travelling along the famous Icefields Parkway. (see pg 34) It’s also one of the hardest lakes to tackle by SUP because of the strong winds. If it’s a calm day, consider it your lucky

Moraine Lake

Touring Across the Canadian Rockies

day, seize the chance to paddle this magnificent lake! For an added adventure, paddle to the far end of Bow Lake and then proceed on foot to the beautiful Bow Falls. Just remember to bring along a pair of dry shoes.

5. Cameron Lake, Waterton—While the 3 Waterton Lakes see heavy wind and large waves, Cameron Lake is smaller, calmer, and perfect for novice paddlers.

6. Middle and Upper Waterton Lakes—If you’re experienced on a board, you’ll want to paddle from Middle to Upper Waterton Lake through the Bosporus. Pay attention to the wind and you can do the paddle one-way as an incredible down winder that just might be the highlight of your trip to the Rockies. There are many docks and day use areas available for launching, and you can set up a shuttle with the help of a bicycle using the Kootenai Brown Bike Trail.

7. Pyramid and Patricia Lakes—When visiting Jasper National Park, these are the two lakes you want to SUP for calm water, stunning reflections, and the chance to paddle with loons at sunrise. Both lakes are located in close proximity on the Pyramid Bench and the two paddles can be broken up with brunch at the Pyramid Lake Resort. Unfortunately, there are no SUP rentals in the Jasper area at this time.

8. Emerald Lake, Yoho—this is named for the colour of the water that glows beneath you on a board. You can even stay

overnight at the Emerald Lake Lodge and get out on the water at sunrise and sunset for a rare chance to be alone on this popular lake. While you can rent canoes onsite, there are no SUP rentals in the area.

9. Barrier Lake, Kananaskis Country—this Lake is a good one for paddlers and is close to Calgary if you want a day trip from the city. Kananaskis Outfitters rents boards lakeside at the Barrier Lake Day Use Area on summer weekends, making this one of the easiest spots to paddle.

10. Lower and Upper Kananaskis Lakes—If you have some experience under your belt, try either lake in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. The Upper Lake has several small islands that make the perfect spot for a picnic lunch and the Lower Lake has multiple day use areas if you want to set up a oneway shuttle in advance. For a real adventure, reserve a campsite at the Point Backcountry Campground on Upper Kananaskis Lake and try your first SUP back packing trip. Recruit friends in a canoe for the outing and you won’t have to worry about how to transport your gear!

See you on the water this summer!

Banff Canoe Club - banffcanoeclub.com

Bow Valley SUP - bowvalleysup.ca Kananaskis Outfitters - kananaskisoutfitters.com

Photos and Story by: Tanya Koob

Upper Kananaskis Lake Lake Louise

and British Columbia, this year, cannabis edibles are sure to be on a few tongues.

Edibles are the perfect option for those who want to avoid smoking cannabis. Edibles are made with cannabis oils or dried flowers. They made their legal debut here in Canada in October 2019, one-year after dried flower was legalized.

But before you chomp into your tasty cannabis-laced treat, chat with your doctor to make sure edibles are right for you.

Ingesting cannabis is very different than inhaling it and can interact with other medications. Side effects include low blood pressure, anxiety, depression, hallucinations and a racing heart.

Do your research. Choosing a recognized, licensed seller will ensures your product is always safe and consistent. Edibles can be purchased either online or at a store.

And when consuming cannabis edibles, “start low and go slow” because the effects can stay with you far longer than after inhaling it - up to 24 hours.

• Don’t drive for at least 24 hours.

• Don’t drink alcohol edibles don’t mix well with alcohol.

• It can take from 1/2 hr to 4 hrs to feel the effects.

• The ‘high’ from ingesting cannabis is more potent than after inhaling it.

Health Canada advises you to know the THC content in their edibles, and 10 mg is considered an average dose. However, they say that’s enough to produce significant side effects in novices or casual users, and advises starting with a 5 mg dose. Wait up to two hours before consuming more.

At this point you’re probably wondering, “What’s it going to do to me?” Everyone is different and the time it takes to feel anything will vary along with differences in side effects.

Edibles are a great alternative to smoking or inhaling cannabis, but be informed and stay safe. That goes for dried flower as well. For more info on cannabis read ‘Rocky Mountain High’ featured last May in Experience the Mountain Parks. Visit Health Canada online for more information.

By: Kerri Robins

Where and when you can and cannot consume cannabis in Alberta’s National Parks (Banff, Jasper, Waterton Lakes)

You can smoke or vape cannabis:

• If you are 18+ years old;

• In campsites with valid permits from 7am to 11pm;

• In public areas including day-use area;

• On front and back country trails;

• In the hamlet of Lake Louise;

• In Waterton Lakes National Park public areas within the town boundary; and

You cannot smoke or vape cannabis:

• In campground common areas including playgrounds, kitchen shelters, washrooms, trails, roads;

• Within five metres of buildings throughout the park or small municipalities;

• During summer long weekends from Victoria Day through Labour Day;

• During special events or festivals;

• In any public places within the Town of Banff and municipality of Jasper including day-use areas at Pyramid, Annette, Edith beaches and Palisades Centre; and Banff Upper Hot Springs.

Where and when you can and cannot consume cannabis in British Columbia’s National Parks (Kootenay, Yoho, Mount Revelstoke, Glacier)

You can smoke or vape cannabis:

• If you are 19+ years old;

• In campsites with valid permits;

• In public areas including day-use area;

• On front and back country trails; and

• In the townsite of Field (Yoho National Park) in public areas within the town boundary.

You cannot smoke or vape cannabis:

• In campground common areas including playgrounds, kitchen shelters, washrooms, trails, roads; and

• Within six metres of buildings throughout the park or small municipalities.

Experience Cycling in the Mountain Parks

Just seconds into my descent down Superberm, one of the fastest, flowiest downhill mountain biking trails at Kicking Horse Resort, the exhileration, the fear, and the fun-factor goes off the charts. After hitting a few super-fast berms, I pop off a little jump and feel the wonder of weightless. (A really short, just-inches-off-the-ground flight, but it was a flight none theless!). Indeed, ripping down the mountainside on a full suspension bike is speaking to me. I’m definitely listening.

While mountain biking is one of the coolest and craziest things I’ve done in the mountains, I’ve long since realized that it certainly isn’t the only way to enjoy the mountains on two wheels. Far from it. From e-bikes to road bikes, and everything in between, there are tons of great biking adventures to be had in the mountains. And they all have plenty of merit.

Here are four of the best biking excursions that the mountain parks have to offer. Fear not, none of them require mandatory air time. (With the exception of heli-biking, of course!)

Biking the Rocky Mountain Legacy Trail Between Canmore and Banff: Meandering in close proximity to the Trans-Canada Highway, the 22km paved pathway that links Canmore and Banff is a beautiful, family-friendly adventure that cyclists of

all abilities can enjoy. While the journey takes approximately two hours to complete, first-timers will want to stop numerous times to soak in the stunning views, linger at the viewpoints, and enjoy a few snacks along the way. Many people make it a full-day, there-and-back adventure, you can also make it a oneway trip and take a shuttle back to either Banff or Canmore. ROAM public transit offers regular shuttles (with your bike) to get you back to your starting point.

The Old Coach Trail in Radium Hot Springs: Traversing high on arid benchlands – with spectacular views of the Columbia Valley Wetlands and the Purcell Mountains – the 9 km outand-back Old Coach Trail between Radium and Dry Gulch makes for an fun family-friendly bike ride. Although you will likely encounter some roots, rocks, and pitchy sections, the gravel trail is rated “green.” Travelled by cars and carriages over a hundred years ago, this trail features spectacular view points and abandoned relics (mainly old cars rusting away in the trees!) of a long-gone era of coach and automobile travel.

Mountain Biking in Golden: True, the downhill single-track trails at Kicking Horse Bike Park are phenomenal! However, Golden is fast-becomming a mountain biking Mecca for all genres of riding. Cross-country enthusiasts have a handful of

Photo Courtesy of Mike Nimmo at Kicking Horse Resort

Waterton Lakes National Park

Photo Courtesy Travel Alberta / Katie Goldie

Jasper National Park Photo Courtesy Ryan Bray

Experience Cycling in the Mountain Parks

areas to explore including Moonrakers (34 trails), Columbia Basin Trust (14 trails), Mountain Shadows (17 trails), and Mount 7 (22 trails). For experienced riders (that don’t mind a little cliff-side exposure!), the 5 km, 515 metre plunge down the Canyon Creek Trail in the Moonrakers network is one of Golden’s signature trails. Bring your “A” game.

Road Cycling the Icefields Parkway: Without a doubt this is one of the world’s most scenic highways. Unfortunately, when you’re going highway speed in a vehicle, you’re going to miss a lot. On a bike, not so much! Want to bike the parkway but don’t quite know how to manage the logistics? No problem. Go with Mountain Madness Tours. They’ve guided thousands of cyclists and have it down to a tee. While the trip between Jasper and Banff usually takes four days, it can be customized depending on your group’s skill and fitness level. Also, if you want to add a trip down to Waterton Lakes National Park (the ride down Alberta’s Cowboy Trail is phenomenal!) or ride all the way back to Calgary or Vancouver, it can be done. All you need is a sense of adventure and some pretty strong legs!

E-Biking in Waterton Lakes National Park: True, Waterton Lakes National Park suffered some significant fire damage in 2017. However, the beauty of this park is still fully intact! Not

only that, but one of the region’s most beautiful roads is now closed to cars...but open for hikers and bikers! Yes, this means that the stunning Red Rock Parkway makes for one of the best biking opportunities in the mountain parks. And perhaps the best way to enjoy this scenic stretch of road is via an E-bike, which provides an extra power boost when you really need it. E-bikes (as well as a full fleet of other bikes) are available for rent at Pat’s in downtown Waterton. Even if you don’t make it out to the parkway, just peddaling around the townsite is a memorable activity nearly everyone can do.

Heli-biking in Revelstoke: One would think that if you can heli-ski and heli-hike, then you can surely also heli-bike. And, if you go to Revelstoke, that is correct! The Mount Cartier heli-biking adventure is definitely not for the faint of heart (or the newbie rider!) After your heli-drop near the summit of Mount Cartier, you’re in for a fast, white-knuckle, blackdiamond descent down rocky single-track and aerie ridgelines. It’s steep, it plunges over 7,000 feet, it’s 17 km long, and it will leave you breathless. Your beer at the end will be the best one you’ve ever had. Book your trip with Wandering Wheels, they were the pioneers of this world-renowned adventure. Visit wanderingwheels.ca.

By: Andrew Penner

Jasper National Park

Photo CourtesyParks Canada/Nicole Gaboury

Photo Courtesy Tourism Jasper

Crowsnest Pass

Photo Courtesy Quin Schrock @everchanginghorizon

Experience the Flora in the Mountain Parks

As you explore one of Canada’s most spectacular landscapes, you’ll often be staring toward immense ramparts. At other times, you’ll be squinting to spot some of an area’s amazing animals. Just remember to look down to appreciate some of the unique wild flowers that line the trails and roadsides.

The Crocus

To many locals, the crocus is the official harbinger of spring. Its delicate pinkishpurple flowers announce the start of the wild-flower season.

Orchids

As the spring gives way to summer, the calypso orchid or fairy slipper emerges from carpets of needles lying beneath towering forests of lodgepole pine.

An Amazing Diversity

As you learn to recognize wildflowers, take note of where you encounter them. Was the area in the open sun or more shaded? Were the plants protected from the elements or subjected to high winds? Was the soil moist or dry? Learning to recognize the landscape within which the flowers live will help you anticipate which flowers to expect as you head out on future wildflower walks.

Flowers of the Montane

The valley bottom plays host to most of the early season wildflowers. Watch for

the tiny bloom of the blue violet and the creamy flowers of the yellow locoweed. Try to find the star flowered Solomon’s seal, bunchberry, wild strawberry, bear berry, twinflower or a prickly rose.

Flowers of the High Country

This season is short so the flowers need to bloom as soon as conditions allow. Watch for red and purple flowers, like the common red paintbrush, alpine forgetme-not, and the tiny moss campion. Other high elevation flowers include the cow parsnip and the club like flower clusters of the bear grass.

This summer, get to know a few of the wild flowers. They’ll be your constant roadside and trailside companions as you roll your way through the mountains and unlike bears, they don’t run away as soon as you try to get a good look at them. But remember: look, don’t pick!

Meadow of Scarlet Paintbrush - Courtesy Terry Webb

Crocus - Courtesy Jerre Paquette

Blanket of Daisies - Courtesy Jeremy Klager

Galypso Orchid - Courtesy Joshua Angiola

Red Paintbrush - Courtesy Lloyd Dykstra

Seedhead, Wilcox Pass - Courtesy Terry Webb

Experience the Fauna in the Mountain Parks

Dawn and dusk are your best bet for spotting animals in their natural setting. However, it’s important to keep in mind that these are WILD animals.

Bears

Both black and grizzly bears can be seen along highways as they feed on spring dandelions or summer buffaloberries.

Black bears may be any colour, so colour itself is a poor indicator. Instead, look for a prominent shoulder hump and a slightly dished-in appearance to the face - a sure sign that you’re watching a grizzly.

Bighorn Sheep or Mountain Goats?

Bighorn sheep make appearances along the roadside, mountain goats do not. To help you identify them, remember that mountain goats are snow white. Male big horn sheep get the large full-curl horns. Females have small, goat-like horns.

The Many Members of the Deer Family

Here you’ll find white-tail and mule deer, elk or wapiti, moose, and even caribou in the northern reaches.

You’ll likely see more animals while you’re driving. Mule and white-tailed deer, along with large populations of elk (or wapiti) line many of the highways. They typically graze the grassy roadside shoulders and hillsides taking advantage of plentiful forage.

Keep Them Wild; Keep Yourself Safe

We all want to keep the animals safe and your visit memorable. Here are some tips for safely observing wildlife in the mountains: Stay in your vehicle when you see an animal. They are very large and equally fast. Be sure to stop your vehicle only if it is safe to do so. Blind corners and steep hills can obscure other drivers’ view of your vehicle. Do not feed or entice animals to move closer to you. Animals that approach humans for handouts are likely to lash out defensively if they feel threatened. Help us keep the wild in wildlife.

Remember to keep your smart phone, camera and binoculars ready for action. Spotting wildlife often happens suddenly with little warning and ends just as fast.

By Ward Cameron

Elk - Courtesy of Sheila McKeand

Mountain Goats - Joey Olivieri

Wolfs - Courtesy Francis Sandoval

Bears - Courtesy Leonard Heinonen

Coyotes - Courtesy Nicholas Taffs

Bear - Courtesy Trevor Ward

Big Horn Sheep - Courtesy Richard Collens

Experiencing the Icefields Parkway

Athabasca Falls Ice Explorers

Peyto Lake Viewpoint

Lake Louise framed Chateau Window

Experiencing the Icefields Parkway

Considered one of the most beautiful mountain drives in the world, along with the spectacular-in-a-different-way “Going To The Sun” road in Montana, the Parkway is a true gem. For just under 300 km, there are only a handful of human habitations like lodges, hostels, cafeterias as well as the Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre. The rest of the time there’s nothing but highway, lakes, mountains, glaciers and wildlife.

And you. Having one of those quasi-spiritual experiences that an overdose of beauty can bring.

Taking your car is no longer the only, or perhaps even the best, way to witness the scenery. There are many guided tours that include this route as part of their itinerary. There’s even the option of cruising along on the back of a Harley!

The Parkway itself is pretty straightforward. If driving, you pay your National Park admission fee at the gates, if you don’t already have one, and cruise on up the road. And, while you’ll see a lot of spectacular scenery on that road, it’s when you dive in to the side-trips that the experience becomes truly epic.

Jasper Motorcycle Tours is an exciting option for experiencing the Parkway, offering 1 to 3 hour tours around Jasper, or down the Parkway as far as the Icefields. They do the driving; you and a smallish friend go in the Harley’s sidecar. Rates start at $319 for adults, $160 for kids. The best part is you get to wear leathers and show everybody at home your inner biker.

From Banff, you can now take an express transit bus as far as Lake Louise - Canada’s highest permanent settlement - with a day pass for $20 and, given the parking difficulties there, it could be your best option. See roamtransit.com for information. Buses even accept US dollars. To see the whole Parkway, an option is a an 8 hour one way guided tour from either Banff or Jasper for $159. Info: banffjaspercollection.com

The peak diversion is the Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre, about an hour south of Jasper or 2 hr north of Banff. Ride one

of the giant ‘Ice-Explorers’ out on to the massive Athabasca Glacier, one arm of an ice field complex that is over one and a half times the size of Paris! The young folk who drive these monsters are well trained at both driving and entertaining you, and it’s an experience you won’t soon forget. A recent addition to this adventure is the construction of a glass-bottomed walk way that juts over the side of the Sunwapta Valley, located just north of the Centre.

Admission to either experience is via the visitor centre and its fleet of busses. Adult combo tour of both attractions is $103, less if you’re an Alberta resident. Like most of the big sights in Alberta’s Rockies, these are now owned by Pursuit. The company also runs the Banff Gondola and the Maligne and Minnewanka Lake cruises, so it’s worth investigating a ‘combo package’ if you’ll be spending a few days in the area. It’s also worth bringing your own snacks or lunches to these attractions, let’s just say in-house prices are reflective of the isolation.

A nice spot to grab lunch is at Sunwapta Falls, 53 km south of Jasper. A visit to Athabasca Falls is not to be missed! Not the tallest, but the sheer force of the water is fantastic. Plan on spending half an hour, and walk all the way to the bottom of the gorge along the well laid out trail and viewing platforms.

However you do it, experiencing the Icefields Parkway is an awesome experience of the sheer scale and magnificence of Mother Nature. Even the bears agree.

Experience Travel Guides contributor Allen Gibson regularly leads tours on the Parkway.

The Icefields Centre now has free wifi - one of the few spots on the parkway where you’ll have net or cell service. You won’t be able to replicate the photo of Peyto Lake this year - the view point is closed for a revamp all year.

See helpful map on page 34!

Photos and Story By: Allen Gibson

If you’ve yet to explore the Icefields Parkway between Banff and Jasper we have one question for you – what are you waiting for!?

Experience Jasper National Park

Special Feature

Miette Hot Springs

61 km (1 hr) North of Jasper on Hwy 16 & Miette Rd. The hottest mineral springs in the Canadian Rockies. Two refreshing cool pools. Towels, bathing suits & locker rentals. Open May to Oct. 1-800-767-1611

See Campground Directory on pg 66

See legend on page 67

Parks Canada has made a number of changes for the 2022 season visit parkscanada.gc.ca for up-to-date information.

Experience Jasper National Park

Jasper National Park Map Keys

The Town of Jasper - All Services Jasper Park Information Centre 500 Connaught Dr.

Mount Edith Cavell

29 km (30 min) south of Jasper via 93A. A switchback road climbs 14.5 km (9 mi) to a popular viewpoint. Trailers or RVs larger than 7 m are not permitted. Open mid June - Sept.

Athabasca Falls

30 km (30 min) south of Jasper via 93A or 93. A bridge and platforms give views of the thundering falls. Stay on the trail and inside the protective fences.

Sunwapta Falls 55 km (40 min) south of Jasper via 93. A paved road and short trail lead to the falls. Sunwapta is an indigenous term meaning “turbulent river.” Stop at the resort for a great meal and excellent gift ideas.

Columbia Icefield and Athabasca Glacier 103 km (75 min) from Jasper on the Icefields Parkway, Hwy 93 Guided glacier hikes (Icewalks) icewalks.com or phone 1-800-565-7547 (June - September) For Pursuit’s Glacier Adventure, book your trip at the Icefield Centre or call 1-877-423-7433.

Jasper House National Historic Site

35km (30 min) North of Jasper on Hwy 16. A short walk on an easy trail leads to an interpretive viewpoint looking beyond the Athabasca River towards the Jasper House historic site.

Maligne Canyon

11.5 km (15 min) east of Jasper on the Maligne Valley Road. 3.7 km interpretive trail with foot bridges over canyon. Stay away from the edge. Very deep (50 m) narrow canyon. In winter take a guided tour inside the gorge. It is unsafe to descend into the canyon without a professional guide.

Medicine Lake

27 km (30 min) from Jasper on the Maligne Valley Rd. The Maligne River flows in, but where does it flow out? Drained by one of the largest underground river systems in North America.

Maligne Lake

48 km (55 min) from Jasper on the Maligne Valley Rd. The beauty of this lake is legendary. A Boat Tour of this 22 km long lake is a “must see”. Chalet open mid-May to early October, 8:30 am - 7 pm. Boat tours start when spring ice conditions permit. Tour hours 10 am - 3 pm, extended to 5 pm in the summer. Call for a Reservation 1-888-285-0376. malignelake.com.

Jasper National Park is the largest of Canada’s Rocky Mountain Parks, and part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Discover the rugged mountains, glaciers, alpine meadows, forests, broad valleys, and wild rivers contained within more than 11,000 km2 of protected area. Wildlife is abundant here. It is common to see elk, bighorn sheep, deer, coyote and even black bear.

Jasper may have the greatest variety of accommodations in the mountain parks. Within the park, you could pitch your tent, park your RV, stay in a wilderness hostel, or be pampered in a resort. In town, your options include hotels, motels, private home accommodations and B&B’s.

All of these choices are excellent. Each will appeal to a wide range of travellers and several unique properties are available in each category. If you are looking for something a little different, consider a private cabin.

Typically located on the edge of town, cabins offer a rustic charm ideal for those who really just want to get away from it all. Decompress in privacy without sacrificing comfort. Use this opportunity to read a book, go for a stroll, run a trail or just gaze at the amazing night sky.

Pick

Jasper Visitor Map for more highlights and activities in both Jasper National Park and Jasper.

Photo Courtesy of Matt Meisenheimer

Experience

While plotting the border between Alberta and BC in the early 1900s, this roadway was the brainchild of Arthur O. Wheeler, who described this route as a “wonder trail”. Work began in 1931 as part of a depression-era public works program to put men to work, but the rugged terrain and short season meant the project took 9 years to complete.

Isolated for centuries, 1940 ushered in an era of tourism to the region when this road opened to the public. Today, more than a million travellers experience the parkway annually.

It is often referred to as “The Backbone of the Canadian Rock ies”. National Geographic calls it “One of the World’s Ten Greatest Drives”. For many, it is the road trip of a lifetime.

Stretching 230 km between Lake Louise and Jasper, this world-class journey amidst the peaks of the Canadian Rockies, offers easy access to a vast wilderness of ancient glaciers. It’s complete with guided adventures onto the icefields, majestic viewpoints and interpretive displays designed to enrich your understanding of glaciers and climate change.

Experience the Icefields Parkway

It is possible to travel this route in just three hours, but that would be a crime. The Icefields Parkway offers the best hiking, biking and photo opportunities in the Rockies. There are unforgettable stops along the way. The most photographed locations are the ones that are easily accessed: Bow Lake, Peyto Lake, Mistaya Canyon, Athabasca Glacier, the Columbia Icefields Centre, Athabasca Falls and Sunwapta Falls.

But there are some locations tucked away, unsigned, where you may find your “mountain moment”. Some that are well worth the hike include: Herbert Lake, Panther Falls, Parker Ridge, Tangle Falls and the two-for-one stop at Waterfowl Lakes Campground to take in Cephren Lake and Cirque Lake. Pick up a copy of Experience Jasper Visitor Map to see Jasper’s Treasures

Hidden Gems - Maligne Ravine

It’s been said in the Rockies that when water is flowing, a canyon is growing. If you hike Maligne Canyon from Sixth Bridge, the 3.7 km outing will convince you this is true. For those with less time, you may hike from Fifth Bridge (2.7 km), or complete the 800 m loop near the teahouse. This outing is great for cloudy and rainy days.

From Sixth Bridge picnic area, cross the Maligne River and head upstream. Jesuit missionary, Pierre-Jean De Smet, referred to the river in 1846 using the French word “maligne,” which means “wicked.”

After 800 m of pleasant riverbank you reach the mouth of the canyon. Note the change in the character of the forest. Dampness and chill prevail. Two rivers flow through the canyon. If you were to compare the volume of flow at Sixth Bridge with the volume at First Bridge in mid-summer, you would see that the lower canyon contains much more water (eight times as much) as the upper canyon. An under ground river, which begins up the valley at Medicine Lake, empties 24,000 litres per second into the canyon. This underground river may be the largest in the world.

After climbing above the river, the trail descends again to the damp forest at riverside. Beaten paths lead to the riverbank, but the wet, silt-covered rock is certain death if you misplace a step.

Above the Fourth Bridge, the canyon narrows dramatically. Down stream the river is eroding relatively weak shales. Upstream the river has a tougher time with resistant limestone. This rock is fossil-rich.

The Maligne River takes a mighty drop beneath Third Bridge, where the canyon’s depth is 10 m and you cross to the opposite bank. The air also changes. Below the bridge, within the canyon, it’s cool and damp. From here on you climb along the canyon rim, where the air is noticeably warmer.

Maligne Canyon is deepest (55 m) at Second Bridge. Locals know the pocket of ice on the wall as “The Icebox.” At First Bridge, the canyon is 38 m deep and the entire river is forced through a 1 m slot. Although the canyon is shallow from here on, it features wonderful potholes. These are circular depressions drilled into the limestone by boulders caught in eddies, a process that requires thousands of years.

From the teahouse, walk back down as you are certain to see things you missed before. And spending more time in the company of the lower Maligne River, a ribbon of blue-green beauty, is bound to yield many more exciting discoveries!

Story by: Graeme Pole

Photos and

The History of Miette Hot Springs

In 1908, just a year after Jasper National Park was created, coal was discovered at Pocahontas, a mining town that once sat on Miette Road near Hwy 16. While resource extraction is no longer permitted in Canada’s national parks, in those days resource extraction provided a welcome source of royalties paid to the federal government.

Taking its name from a famous Virginia Coal Field, the community of Pocahontas quickly swelled to a population of 2000 over the next decade. Isolated in Jasper National Park’s wilderness, Pocahontas’ connection to the outside world was the railway.

During WWI, the rail line shut down and the eventual competition between the Grand Trunk Pacific and Canadian Northern Railways lead to bankruptcy that had a profound impact on Pocahontas. When the Grand Trunk Pacific and Canadian Northern merged into the government-owned Canadian National Railways, an inefficient spur line was all that was left connecting the community to the outside world. More misfortunes followed as the coal being mined was not suitable for heating homes or running railway locomotives.

By 1921, the mine closed after only 11 years in operation. Industrial buildings were demolished and houses were moved east into other towns. Eventually, Pocahontas was all but forgotten. The legacy left behind? A log pool with mud and moss chinking built at Miette Hot Springs in 1919 by workers during a labour dispute.

Accessible via a rough-hewn trail cut through the forest in 1910, the original pool was used by only the hardiest and most determined of travellers. Arriving on foot or by horseback, visitation to the hot springs became increasingly popular throughout the 1920s.

During the Depression, relief projects employed hundreds of men who built a new road, campground, and aquacourt. Wedged into the base of a narrow ravine near the source, the original aquacourt site was considered to be geologically unstable and replaced in 1986.

As Canada celebrates the 150th Anniversary of Confederation, visiting Miette Hot Springs remains a popular pastime of visitors. The easy-toaccess Miette Hot Springs road is a popular place to view wildlife and easy stops such as the Punchbowl Falls and Ashlar Ridge viewpoint are great places to take in the view. The short walk from the day-use area next to Miette Hot Springs to the water’s source gives history buffs a chance to explore the ruins of the old aquacourt. An on-site café and nearby accommodations, including hotels as well as the Pocahontas Campground, means that soaking in Miette Hot Springs is no longer just for hardy and determined travellers!

Bathers in the Miette Hot Springs Pool, Jasper National Park, Ab, 1929 Photo Courtesy of Jasper-Yellowhead Museum & Archive - PA 39-57

Miette Hot Springs, 2014

Photo Courtesy of Parks Canada, Lee Simmons Photographer

Experience Jasper National Park

If dark starry night skies give you goose bumps, you’ve come to the right place!

The landscape within Jasper National Park is a vision during daylight, but it also has a night time magic very rare in the world these days. The park boasts one of the largest dark sky preserves in the world. You can see dreamy nightscapes of planets and constellations year-round, although the stars are brightest during the monthly phase of the new moon.

In March 2011 the Royal Astronomical Society of Canada (RASC) officially designated Jasper National Park as a Dark Sky Preserve (DSP). A DSP is an area in which no artificial lighting is visible and active measures are in place to promote the reduction of light pollution, the protection of nocturnal habitat, and the visibility of the night skies.

While Jasper is nestled within soaring mountain ranges, it also has the largest clearings in the Rockies, ideal for dramatic open spaces for stargazing. This kind of wilderness astronomy

in the Canadian Rockies is a pursuit gaining real traction with parents and grandparents, alike. They take advantage of the perfect conditions to share this amazing experience with their children and grandchildren. Families are replacing clumsy & expensive telescopes with iPads and GPS-based star-finders to browse their way around the vast sky.

Astronomy programs are offered daily at the Planetarium and Jasper’s Dark Sky Festival is a “must see”. Since inception, this festival has grown into one of North America’s largest annual celebrations of the night sky. Plan to return for the ultimate Jasper Dark Sky experience, from October that includes:

• Guided virtual tour in climate-controlled dome theatre

• See the local aboriginal First Nations constellations

• Tour of the most powerful telescopes in the Rockies

• See recent 4K sky imagery with a new video telescope

• Learn how to photograph auroras and the Milky Way

• Guided tour deep space and Q&A with astronomy expert

What to Bring? (in addition to warm clothes) You’ll be simply amazed as to what you will be able to see with the naked eye, but if you have a Smart Phone or an iPad, load up a GPS-based star finder program from your App Store, and get familiar with it, before you leave home.

Your camera! Remember to take pictures of your experience and enter our reader contest! (see pg 48)

Image-stabilized binoculars feature optics that adjust many times a second to counteract your unsteady hands, effectively transforming such devices into small telescopes without the need to pack a tripod.

Photo Courtesy of Jasper Planetarium

Jasper Information Centre

National Historic Site, 500 Connaught Dr. Friends of Jasper Gift Shop.

Jasper Information Centre: 780-852-6176

Tourism Jasper Visitor Desk: 780-852-6236

Patricia & Pyramid Lakes

5/7 km (10/15 min) drive from Jasper. Patricia Lake has a 2-3 hour loop trail. Read the plaque for WWII historical significance. Enjoy hiking, fishing, swimming, cross-country skiing, trail rides, and snow shoeing. Easy to access.

Old Fort Point Loop

1.5 km (5 min) drive via 93A and Old Fort Point Road - 3.8 km loop (1-2 hr) fairly steep hike to the top of this popular hill that overlooks the town & Athabasca River.

Lakes Annette, Edith & Beauvert

5 km (10 min) drive via Hwy 16

Sandy beaches, swim in spring-fed “kettle” lakes 2.4 km (45 min - 1.5 hr) Wheelchair and stroller accessible interpretive trail.

Jasper SkyTram

7 km (15 min) drive from town

Phone 866-850-8726. jasperskytram.com. Open late Mar. to mid-Oct. (weather dependant). Guided tours and stunning views from atop Whistlers Mountain. Canada’s longest and highest aerial tramway (7,500 ft. above sea level).

The Discovery Trail

This trail can be accessed at several points throughout Jasper. (8.3 km loop) Portions are wheelchair accessible downtown.

Jasper-Yellowhead Museum & Archives

400 Bonhomme St.; 780-852-3013

jaspermuseum.org. Discover the spirit of Jasper. Admission Fee: Adults $7. Permanent exhibits of Jasper’s history. Monthly exhibits in Showcase Gallery. Summer (mid May - mid Oct) 10 am - 5 pm Winter (Thurs. - Sun, only) 10 am - 5 pm

Fitness & Aquatic Centre & Arena

NEW Fitness Facility!

Arena, Indoor Climbing Wall, 50m Waterslide 25m Pool, Hot Tub & Steam Room, Showers Tennis & Raquetball Courts, Meeting & Event Facilities

Fitness & Pool: 780-852-3663 Activity Centre: 780-852-3381

Experience Yellowhead County & Hinton

More and more travellers are making Hinton and Yellowhead County part of their vacation plans – and it isn’t hard to see why. The abundance and variety of lodgings here give visitor’s countless opportunities to explore the Canadian Rockies and the surrounding foothills.

Located only a few hours west of Edmonton, along Hwy 16, Yellowhead County stretches from Evansburg, at the junction

of Hwy 22 (The Cowboy Trail) in the east, to the gates of the Jasper National Park gates in the west.

Accommodations run from teepees, lodges, resorts, and B&Bs, to full-service hotels with indoor swimming pools. There are more than 30 campgrounds here, operated by the municipality, private sector and Alberta Parks. They provide a full range of serviced and non-serviced campsites to choose from.

Yellowhead County has something for anyone wanting to explore some of the most majestic landscapes in western Canada.

1. Visit one of the many parks in our area.

2. Guided horse-back tours in the Rockies and foothills.

3. Stop in at one of the museums from Evansburg to Hinton.

4. Go tubing in the Pembina, McLeod or Athabasca River.

5. Hop on your mountain bike to try some of the great trails.

6. Relax at the family friendly beaches and campgrounds.

7. Hike the Hoodoos in Sundance Provincial Park.

8. Check out the Coal Branch and Cardinal Divide.

With a population of 9,900 residents and located a short 15-minute drive east of the Jasper National Park boundary, Hinton is a regional hub in West Yellowhead County.

The town boasts a number of outdoor recreational facilities and attractions. Canada’s longest freshwater boardwalk, the Beaver Boardwalk is a great family outing that showcases a local wetland system around Maxwell Lake. It features two

Hinton, Photo Courtesy of Travel Alberta

Hinton, Photo Courtesy of Leigh McAdam @hikebiketravel

Experience Yellowhead County & Hinton

observation towers, seating areas, interpretive signs, and more than a dozen beavers. Arrive in the early morning or evening for the best chance to see them in action.

Hinton is getting a reputation as a mountain biking hotspot in Western Canada, too. The biking trail network is constantly changing. Those who venture out can experience woodland beauty, wetlands or breathtaking vistas with an interesting mix of roots, side hills, climbs and technical features.

On a rainy day, check out the Northern Rockies Museum of Heritage and Culture. Imagine the sounds as the old steam engine rolls into Hinton. Back then, the population was only 500 and saw little growth until the coal mines. Those mines were part of a vast network that became known as the Coal Branch.

A hidden gem in the area, consider a self-guided tour of the abandoned coal mines. It starts 10 minutes west of town on Hwy 40 South. A serendipity of this travel route is that it is great for wildlife spotting. Watch for bear, moose, elk, wolves and cougars. You’ll likely find herds of Big Horn sheep right along the side of the road. However, cell service is not reliable here and the road changes from paved to gravel. To learn more, pick up a copy of our Coal Mine Tour Map at the info centre. Located at 309 Gregg Avenue in the central shopping district, the staff has received high praise for their service!

Hinton’s backyard is a mecca for campers, quadders, hikers, bikers, skiers, hunters, and fishers – along with rock climb

ers, white water rafters, canoers and kayakers. Located 15 min north of Hinton on Hwy 40, with views of the majestic mountains, the William A. Switzer Provincial Park is an un crowded gem nestled in the foothills. The park offers multiple campgrounds, beach activities, visitor centre, interpretation programs, and numerous trails for hiking, and biking and cross-country skiing. You’ll also find excellent wildlife watch ing opportunities from easily-accessible viewing platforms and self-guided interpretive trails.

Traditionally, Hinton hosts two major summer festivals. The Föhn Festival is their signature event! It is designed to showcase their rich diversity and has been combined with their Canada Day Celebrations. fohnfest.com

Historically, the Wild Mountain Music Festival runs the 3rd weekend of July. Held at the Entrance Ranch, 8 km north on Hwy 40, it features two stages, beer gardens, vendors, and kids’ activities. In 2021, camp on-site or take the shuttle from Hinton. visit us at

another stay day

Old Entrance, Photo Courtesy of Yellowhead County / Lara Felsing

Hinton, Photo Courtesy of Travel Alberta / Ryan Bray

Experience British Columbia

BC Fast Facts

Capital City: Victoria Population: 4.99 million History: Entered Canadian Confederation in 1871

Total Area: 944,735km sq/364,764mi sq

Highest Point: Fairweather Mountain, 4,663m/15,299ft

Lowest Point: Pacific Ocean, Sea Level Longest River: Fraser River, 1,368 km/850 mi Provincial Flower: Pacific Dogwood Provincial Tree: Western Redcedar Provincial Bird: Steller’s Jay Provincial Gemstone: Jade Provincial Motto: “Splendour Without Diminishment”

Experience Wells Gray Provincial Park

Our coverage of British Columbia (BC) begins with the communities of Clearwater, Valemount, Blue River, and Wells Gray Provincial Park.

Wells Gray Provincial Park contains 5,250 sq km of alpine wilderness, borne from volcanoes and carved by glaciers. It boasts one of the most unique land scapes in all of BC; where your days are measured in vertical feet, big game sightings and the number of waterfall shots on your camera.

Helmcken Falls is Canada’s 4th highest waterfall and just one of the 39 named waterfalls you’ll find here. It’s where the Murtle and Clearwater Rivers roar into life each spring and wildlife sightings are as common as sunrise and sunset.

Murtle Lake is North America’s largest canoe-only lake. It is here, through a kaleidoscope of colour where you can hike through the wildflower meadows of the Trophy Mountains. You’ll find serenity among oldgrowth interior rainforests.

Select Valemount, Blue River or Clearwater as your staging ground for wilderness adventures. Tour by car, on foot, or by saddle… in the Canada you imagined.

Located one hour west of Jasper on Hwy 16, drop by the Mount Robson Visitor Centre, or stop at the Info Centres in Valemount or in Clearwater. The friendly staff will ensure you get the most from your visit to this breath-taking area!

For more information visit: WellsGray.ca VisitValemount.ca

Helmcken Falls, Courtesy of Claude Robidoux

Courtesy of Chance Breckenridge

Courtesy of Claude Robidoux

Discover Our Craft Beer

At 3:00 pm – after pouncing down powder-coated slopes at the Kicking Horse Resort – my wife and I returned to Golden tired, happy, and very, very thirsty. Indeed, recreating in the Rockies will do that to you! On our wish list? A cozy, craft-beer taproom with friendly locals, delicious beer, and good vibes. Serving up one of the best IPAs in the land, the newly-minted Whitetooth Brewery proved to be the perfect spot.

Like many of the pretty little mountain towns that sit snug in the valleys in British Columbia and Alberta, Golden’s local taproom is a hub of activity. People, growlers in hand, come and go throughout the day. Indeed, craft beer joints are a going concern. And they’re popping up everywhere.

Without a doubt, the craft beer “revolution” (depending on who you ask, that’s probably not putting it too strongly!) has found some strong footing in the mountainous regions of Western Canada. At least a couple of dozen micro-breweries have bought some space, installed the tanks, poured in the hops (and a few other important ingredients), and, shortly thereafter, opened up their taps to the masses. And thirsty mountain folk – and visiting prairie folk! - are gulping it down by the hectoliter.

And this is for good reason. The beer is good. Often great! Talented brewers are creating a wide assortment of delicious concoctions – pale ales, stouts, porters, sours, lagers, India Pale Ales, and numerous other styles – that cater to a wide-variety of tastes (because not everyone is a hophead, although I put myself firmly in that camp!).

So, regardless of where you are in the mountains, chances are good you’re in close proximity to a fantastic little taproom with a friendly face, or two, eager to pour you a perfect pint of a locally-brewed liquid “love.” Although I haven’t encountered a bad one (not even close!), here are six of my favourite craft breweries in the mountains. (These are in no particular order. And sorry for the ones I didn’t mention, you are still loved!).

Arrowhead Brewing Company, Invermere – Sure, it’s a little edgy, roadhouse rough, they aren’t afraid to let their hair down and experiment with a host of different beer styles. Put it all together and, whether you’re a biker or a beach bum, the relaxed and rustic atmosphere of their taproom and their hard-hitting beer (I’m a fan of “Night Train,” their black IPA that’s definitely the full meal deal) is going to have you the moment you kick down the creaky door and step inside.

Discover Our Craft Beer

Fisher Peak Brewing Co, Cranbrook – It all goes down at The Heid Out, a downtown Cranbrook restaurant and brewhouse of the finest order. Featuring handmade food sourced from local farms and producers, you won’t find a better place in the Kootenays to eat scrumptious food paired with exceptional beer. Their Soggy Otter Brown Ale is a classic.

Nelson Brewing Company, Nelson – Given its prominent arts and culture inclinations, the historic town of Nelson is on the leading edge of the creative craft beer movement. And Nelson Brewing Company, located in the ancient firehall just up the hill from Baker Street, is the major player. With an all-organic line-up of tasty brews – hopheads will love Paddywhack, a West Coast-style IPA with bite – and hipster-cool merchandise available in their taproom, a visit here will not disappoint.

Grizzly Paw Pub & Brewing Company, Canmore – A fixture in downtown Canmore for nearly 20 years, the Grizzly Paw Pub & Brewing Company is definitely the place to be on Friday night. Or any other night. Or day. With quality food and home made soda (for the drivers!), nobody needs to leave this place thirsty. My advice? Try a taster set and hone in on the brew that speaks your language the loudest.

Whitetooth Brewing Co., Golden – Featuring tasty West Coast and Belgium-inspired beer that will satisfy the thirst of hardcore mountain adventurers (and Golden is full of them!), the small taproom at the Whitetooth Brewing Company is usually wall-to-wall with locals swapping stories and swilling suds. The easy-drinking Whitetooth Session Ale is the perfect starter.

Mt. Begbie Brewing Co. in Revelstoke won the Canadian Brewery of the Year award in Ottawa, amongst 1876 entries from 333 breweries across Canada. Their Kolsch also took top honours, which then went on to win the “Best Kolsch” at the World Brewing Awards. So we basically have the best kolsch in the world, right here in Revelstoke.

Without a doubt, there are many other micro-breweries in the mountains that won’t steer you wrong. These cozy places have many things in common. Yes, good beer is the first thing! But they are also friendly, unpretentious places where everyone is welcomed. So, rest assured, wherever you are recreating, a thirst-quenching, locally-made pint is being poured near you. And, as always, enjoy in moderation...and remember NEVER drink and drive!

By: Andrew Penner

93 runs north from Wickenburg, Arizona, 2,768 kms to Jasper, Ab. American visitors cross into Canada at the Roosville Border Crossing which is open 24/7 year round. For much of the 330 km within BC, Hwy 93 follows the Columbia River Valley and passes through historic communities like Fort Steele, resorts such as Fairmont Hot Springs, and the quaint town of Radium Hot Springs, before veering northeast through Kootenay National Park. Unplug, slow down and drink in the charm of this section of your journey.

Experience Kootenay National Park

Kootenay National Park

Kootenay National Park Visitor Centre

In the village of Radium Hot Springs. Tourism Radium Information Desk OPEN YEAR ROUND 250-347-9331

Friends of Kootenay Gift Shop Parks Canada Info Desk 250-347-9505 Ktunaxa Nation culture & history exhibit.

Redstreak Restoration Trail 1 km trail. Follow interpretive signs to learn why grasslands and open forests are so important for wildlife.

Sinclair Canyon

1.5 km from Radium. The iron-rich cliffs of the Redwall Fault provide a dramatic entrance to the park. Watch for bighorn sheep.

Olive Lake

13 km (15 min) from Radium. Interpretive trail bordering a clear, shallow lake. Look for brook trout in the jewel-coloured water

Kootenay Valley Viewpoint

16 km (20 min) from Radium. Stop here for dramatic views of the Kootenay River Valley, and the Mitchell and Vermilion ranges.

Kootenay Park Lodge 63 km (45 min) from Radium. Located at Vermilion Crossing. Gift Shop, Cabins & Dining. Lodge Open Mid-May to Mid-Sept.

Paint Pots

85 km (1 hr) from Radium. Cold, iron-rich mineral springs bubble up through small pools, staining the earth a deep ochre.

Stanley Glacier

Burgess Shale

Hike

90 km from Radium Hot Springs. Fee applies for the guided hike.

Continental Divide

Vermilion Pass, Fireweed Trail 95 km (1.2 hr) from Radium. Elevation: 1640 m. The Continental Divide is the dividing line between the Pacific and Atlantic watersheds. A 15-min interpretive trail loops through a regenerating forest.

Special Features

Radium Hot Springs Pools

3 km from Radium; Admission fee. Hot pool is a relaxing 39 oC (102 oF). Cool pool is a refreshing 29 oC (84 oF). Lockers, swimsuit and towel rentals available. Visit hotsprings.ca for hours, fees and information.

Parks Canada has made a number of changes for the 2022 season visit parkscanada.gc.ca for up-to-date information.

250-347-6525 www.friendsofkootenay.ca

Photo Courtesy of Grace Hovius

Hidden Gems - Kootenay’s Marble Canyon

Marble Marvel

The 800 m Marble Canyon trail crosses seven bridges along the route of a “migrating” waterfall. It also provides valuable insight into the rebirth of a forest.

At the first bridge, we’re greeted by cold air, an example of the canyon’s effect on local climate. Glaciers 20 km up the valley chill the air that settles on the valley floor. And the shaded depths of the canyon cool the air more.

At the second bridge is a natural arch, which marks the waterfall’s location about 9000 years ago. Please don’t attempt to cross here! People have died from falling at this spot. The large boulder near the fifth bridge is a glacial erratic, deposited when the glacier that carved the Tokumm Creek Valley receded.

Spray from the canyon saturates the thin soils on the rim. Only lichens and mat-like plants can take hold. Before the 2003 fire the complement of plants near Marble Canyon included some species normally found north of the Arctic Circle. With most of the damp forest consumed by fire, the plants now include species associated with drier, lodgepole pine forests.

The canyon’s deepest point is the 39 m drop underneath the seventh bridge, the present location of the waterfall. Constant pounding at the base creates a plunge pool. It enlarges over time and undercuts the rock above. The hanging lip of the waterfall collapses into the pool and the brink moves a couple

of metres upstream. This process has helped Marble Canyon’s waterfall to shift more than 600 m upstream in 11,000 years.

Ochre Beds and Paint Pots

This 1 km walk leads to colourful deposits of clay and the out lets of three mineral springs. On the way you are treated to a suspension bridge crossing of the Vermilion River.

Sediments deposited on the bottom of an ancient glacial lake became the clay of the Ochre Beds. The remarkable colours result from saturation of the clay with iron-rich water from the outlets of three mineral springs - the Paint Pots.

The Ktunaxa (toon-AWK-ah) First Peoples knew the Ochre Beds as, “The place where the red earth spirit is taken.” The Ktunaxa gathered the colourful clay, formed it into cakes and baked it in fire. They ground the resulting compound into powder and mixed it with animal fat or fish grease to create a body paint, which was used in rituals and for trade.

In the early 1900s industry came to the Ochre Beds. The clay was excavated and shipped to Calgary as a source of pigment for paint. It failed and rusting equipment remains.

What once was considered sacred still is. Please keep to the beaten path and do not walk in the ochre deposits or remove any of the material.

Graeme Pole

Photos and Story by:

Lower Marble Canyon

Paint Pots

Headbanging in Radium Hot Springs

Come late fall, the village of Radium Hot Springs, as it goes with many mountain towns, slows down considerably. Many of the summer soakers, hikers, bikers, golfers, and the like, have made their journey home. However, some Radium “residents” never leave. In fact, come late fall, they start “raising the roof” with a headbanging show that always draws a crowd.

Radium Hot Springs – a beautiful Kootenay Rockies village located 260 km west of Calgary in the Columbia Valley – is known for many things. Obviously, the gorgeous natural hot pools (the largest in Canada) immediately come to mind. The exceptional golf – there are two spectacular courses in town - the hiking, the Columbia Valley Wetlands, the quaint motel-lined downtown “strip,” which boasts ice cream shops, candy stores, restaurants, mini-golf, and the like, are all staples on Radium Hot Spring’s “To Do ” list.

Throughout the year, Radium also hosts a number of popular events including the unique Headbanger Festival. But it’s not quite what you’re thinking. There are no eardrum-busting heavy metal bands, mosh pits, or wild, all-night parties. No, the Headbanger Festival in Radium Hot Springs celebrates (in

a good, clean, family-friendly way!) the fall rutting season. And the bighorn sheep always put on quite a show.

“Watching the big rams engage in their head-butting rituals is an awesome experience,” says Kent Kebe, former manager at Tourism Radium. “It’s one of the most impressive displays in the natural world you can see in Western Canada.”

The festival incorporates lots of chances to witness the headbutting first-hand. (This banging of heads occurs when two rams square off and smash horns in a thundering display of raw aggression and dominance. The winner then becomes the leader of the herd and earns the right to mate with the ewes.)

Parks Canada presentations, guest speakers, photography workshops, interpretive hikes, and family art projects are other highlights of the weekend; one that is all about celebrating the iconic wildlife in Radium and educating attendees on how wildlife and humans can better co-exist.

“Radium is one of the few places in North America where a herd of bighorn sheep lives and roams freely in a residential

Photo Courtesy of James Anderson

Radium Springs Golf Course

Photo Courtesy of Andrew Penner

Radium Hot Springs

Photo Courtesy of Parks Canada / C. Douce

Headbanging in Radium Hot Springs

area,” says Kebe. “So the educational piece surrounding how this is best managed, how humans, predators, and bighorn sheep interact, is a pivotal part of this weekend. There are unique challenges and many people from around the world are very interested in how we are managing this situation.”

Although the numbers of the Radium herd has gone down over the years (it’s now approximately 160 animals, down from 220 ten years ago), greater awareness and understanding of all the issues involved (such as harmful food sources, traffic hazards, and large predators like cougars entering the town) is making a difference. “Nature is connected. Together with Parks Canada, our goal is to ensure sustainability and long-term success for both humans and animals,” says Kebe.

Obviously, attendees of the weekend festival will also get a taste for what the charming town of Radium Hot Springs is all about. The soothing hot springs – located up the hill from town in Kootenay National Park – are iconic and should not be

missed. Interestingly, while soaking in the natural hot springs pools, you can glance up on the bordering mountainside and often view wildlife, including bighorn sheep!

Ringed with snow-capped mountains, rushing rivers, hoodoos, dramatic canyons, and a beautiful network of trails, the out door recreational opportunities are endless. Right in the heart of town, for example, the Sinclair Canyon hiking trails offer a beautiful half-day of walking. (A hike, followed by a soak in the hot springs, capped off with ice cream is, in my opinion, a perfect day in Radium!)

Regardless of whether you’re in Radium Hot Springs for the fall Headbanger Festival, or for some camping and a few rounds of golf in the middle of summer, one thing is certain: you will be “wowed” by the gorgeous mountain scenery. And leave with a greater appreciation for the mountains and the natural world around you.

By: Andrew Penner

Year-Round Fun in Yoho National Park

Visit a National Historic Site

Parks Canada operates more than just National Parks. Take the whole family to one of our National Historic Sites for a fun way to learn about Canada’s rich heritage. The Twin Falls Tea House is operated seasonally as a private lodge. The Canadian Pacific Railway started building this chalet in 1908 and it was designated as a national historic site in 1992. Twin Falls is a charming example of early rustic, log-framed design and a vivid reminder of the early days of trail riding, hiking, and mountaineering.

Spiral Tunnels

When BC joined Confederation in 1871, it was on the condition that Prime Minister John A. Macdonald would build a railway to link the province to the rest of the country. The problem? The steep grades in the mountains. The solution? Spiral tunnels blasted through the mountains to reduce the grade. The tunnels remain an amazing engineering feat to this day. Part of the Kicking Horse Pass National Historic Site, the Spiral Tunnels are an easy place to stop and close to the village of Field.

Hike the classics!

The Iceline Trail is arguably the most iconic trail in the park. It offers miles of glaciers and stunning mountain views! This is a strenuous full-day hike.

For a shorter adventure, Takakkaw Falls is a thundering waterfall within a short walk from your car. At 302 meters, it’s one of the highest, easy-to-access water falls in Canada. Insider tip: there’s also a rock climbing route that goes up beside the waterfall. Try to spot the climbers!

Things to do in Winter Autumn

Stroll Through the Village of Field

Emerald Lake is a great winter wonderland

destination. With its Nordic trails and expansive views, this is truly a Canadian adventure! Skis and snowshoes can be rented at Emerald Sports & Gifts, which is located right beside the lake.

Yoho is home to some spectacular ice climbing routes near the village of Field. It’s the perfect winter experience for skilled climbers and adventurous souls.

Under a sea of blazing aspens and snow-dusted peaks, Field is a gem in the fall. Discover its historical houses, walk its garden-lined streets, and shop or eat in the local cafes. Local secret: fall is simply the best time to visit Yoho!

Check the trail report at www.pc.gc.cq/yoho and road conditions on www.drivebc.ca

In the winter, be sure to check avalanche conditions before heading out into the backcountry (www.pc.gc.ca/avalanche).

Photo by Deschênes Steve

Cross-Country Skiing and Snowshoeing

Photo by Barbara Budenz

Photo by Mari Omori

Photo by Trevor Ward

Experience Yoho National Park

Yoho National Park

Yoho Visitor Centre at Field, BC Just off the Trans-Canada Highway. Parks Canada Info Desk open May to mid October. Phone: 250-343-6783. Friends of Yoho National Park Gift Shop. Burgess Shale fossil displays.

The Village of Field 27 km (30 min) west of Lake Louise, Alberta - most services. Quaint mountain town with numerous Guesthouses and Bed & Breakfast Accommodation.

Spiral Tunnels Viewpoint and Kicking Horse Pass National Historic Site

8 km (5 min) east of Field. watch trains snake through this engineering marvel constructed in 1909 for rail safety. Interpretive exhibits. Open Mid-June to Mid-October.

Takakkaw Falls

17 km (25 min) from Field. In the Cree language, Takakkaw means “magnificent.” One of the highest waterfalls in Canada. Walk to the base of the falls, or start a magnificent day-hike or backpacking trip on one of the nearby trails.

Emerald Lake 11 km (15 min) from Field. A jewel of the Canadian Rockies. A 2 hour trail circles the lake. Hike, canoe or picnic in the summer or snowshoe in the winter. Public parking available. Open year-round.

Natural Bridge 4 km (5 min) west of Field. A natural rock bridge arches over Kicking Horse River.

Wapta Falls

22 km (30 min) west of Field. In the Nakoda language of the Stoney Nation, Wapta means “running water” or “river”. Trail head is 2 km drive down dirt road, off of the Trans-Canada Highway. 90-minute round trip hike to see these impressive falls. Open year round.

Walcott Quarry Burgess Shale Hike

17 km from Field; Fee for the guided hike. Hold history in your hands.

Burgess Shale Guided Hike to Mount Stephen Starts in the Village of Field; Fees apply.

Parks Canada has made a number of changes for the 2022 season visit parkscanada.gc.ca for up-to-date information.

Hidden Gems - Yoho’s Cascade Tour

There is no better place to appreciate Yoho National Park’s theme of “rockwalls and waterfalls” than the Yoho Valley. When the ancestral Yoho Glacier receded at the end of the ice age, side valleys were left hanging above the main valley floor. Their streams now plunge over limestone cliffs toward the Yoho River. Takakkaw Falls (TAH-kah-kah) cascades 254m. The name is Cree for “It is magnificent!” You can reach the falls by a 600m trail, wheelchair and stroller accessible in part, from the parking lot at the end of the Yoho Valley Road. The falls are best-lit in the afternoon and early evening.

If Takakkaw has you yearning for more thunder and spray, you can make a fine, full-day hike in the Yoho Valley. From the Yoho Valley trailhead, follow the trail 2.5 km to where short side trails branch east to the bank of the Yoho River and a view of Angel’s Staircase Falls, and southwest to Point Lace Falls. Carry

on to Laughing Falls at 4.6km. Follow beaten paths from the campground along the north bank of the Little Yoho River to this impressive waterfall.

To complete your cascade tour of the Yoho Valley, continue north from Laughing falls for 3.8 km to Twin Falls. This 180m high cataract shimmers with rainbows in the morning sun. The Twin Falls Tea House, a National Historic Site, is nearby.

Return to the trailhead by the way you came (8.4km one-way), or make a loop, returning via Marpole Lake, 9.5k m one-way to the parking lot. Round-trip distances for this hike will be 16.8km – 17.9km. The good news: There is little elevation gain. If you have more time, you may reserve camping at Laughing Falls or Twin Falls campgrounds.

Photo by Deschênes Steve

Photos and Story by: Graeme Pole

Takakkaw Falls

Experience Golden

These days, our addiction to devices, and growing obsession with spontaneity and travelling like a local means that we leave planning a vacation to the last minute, often whilst we are on the road. We are sure that we’ll meet that local who knows everything and has the time to tell us about it, but the reality is that the most famous towns in the Canadian Rockies are so full of tourists and seasonal workers that finding a true local is almost as challenging as discovering a four-leaf clover. But, with a little bit of planning, and being fore-armed on where to find the best information whilst you’re on the road, you too can ensure you get a truly authentic and unique experience. Here’s what I wish I knew when I first visited the mountain parks in the Canadian Rockies:

1. Make Golden your base; Golden is a small unassuming mountain town sitting at the confluence of two historic rivers, surrounded by the majestic beauty and outdoor opportunities of the Rockies and Purcell mountain ranges, and an easy drive from Banff Lake Louise, Yoho, Glacier, Mt. Revelstoke, and Kootenay National Parks, as well as the Icefields Parkway. Yes, it is busier in July and August, but the locals are truly local; families who have lived there for generations, and who love talking about their town, mountains, and outdoor experiences.

2. Use the Tourism Golden website. Their unique Experience Finder will help you discover activities according to your preferences, season, and travel party type. They are experts in the place that they live, work, and recreate, and the suggested itineraries include both the ‘must-dos’ of the Rockies such as Lake Louise and Banff, along with hidden gems that offer the

same wonderful rewards but without the crowds. The tripplanning tool helps you create your own customised itinerary that can be saved, printed, and shared via email.

3. Travel in the shoulder season; May, June, September, and October are all great months to visit the Rockies when snow is on the peaks, temperatures are cooler, and crowds diminish.

4. Book your accommodation early, especially if travelling in the high season (July and August). I recommend staying in a bed and breakfast; they’re owned by people who live in Golden because they love it, and you’ll have plenty of opportunity to get their hints, tips, and stories first-hand during your visit.

5. One of the first things to do on arrival is drop into the new Golden Visitor Centre. The counsellors are all from Golden, and can give their inside tips on additional activities, places of interest, where to eat, shop and lots more. Your customised itinerary can be emailed directly to your mobile device for use during your stay. Parks Canada passes are available to purchase.

6. Keep an eye out in the downtown area and at local events for the roving Golden ambassadors and eye-catching pop up information tent. They’re ready to answer your questions right when you need them to!

7. Connect to the best local information by downloading the Tourism Golden web app to your mobile device. There are four Wi-Fi hotspots in the downtown area, so no need to burn through your own data.

Visit tourismgolden.com/EMP for inspiration and information.

Photo by A Barrett Photography

Experience Golden

At the heart of your Parks adventure.

Golden B.C. is surrounded by six of Canada’s most stunning national parks; Yoho, Glacier, Banff, Jasper, Kootenay, and Mount Revelstoke. This unique location makes Golden the ideal place from which to experience the spectacular scenery, iconic hiking trails, waterfalls, lakes and heritage sites of the national parks.

Sitting at the confluence of two historic rivers and surrounded by majestic mountain vistas, Golden is an authentic mountain town that offers unrefined mountain adventure. Enjoy a vast range of activities or just simply appreciate our fabulous scenery and abundance of wildlife.

Don’t let the Kicking Horse Canyon Project stop you from escaping to Golden. There will be no daytime interruptions during the summer. To learn more about the closure and travelling to Golden visit Gettingtogolden.ca

Start planning: lovethenationalparks.com

Seek and you will find.

Golden Visitor Centre Find everything you need to know about Golden. Open daily during the summer. tourismgolden.com/visitors 1000 TRANS CANADA HIGHWAY

Columbia Wetlands Outpost

River front Accesses and Spectacular Mountain views, Camping Sites and Accommodations, River Adventures, Disc Golf Course, Farm Tours, Try an e-cano Kayak or Paddle board. 1-250-348-2235 www.Columbiawetlandsoutpost.com

Golden Golf Club

• Small Town Club with Big Time Golf

• Voted #10 best public golf course in BC

• 42 site RV Park, Mini-Golf, and fully licensed restaurant with patio 1-250-344-2700 www.golfgolden.com

all

www.tourismgolden.com/travel

Mistaya Lodge

Helicopter access only! Located in the heart of the Canadian Rockies between Banff and Yoho National Parks. Guests enjoy adventures including hiking, swimming, nature watching, photography & relaxation! 1-250-344-6689 www.mistayalodge.com

Heather Mountain Lodge

With Glacier National Park alpine views, our newly renovated rooms make backcountry adventure and relaxation as comfortable as you can get. Visit Heather Mountain Lodge! 1-250-344-7490 www.heathermountainlodge.com

Golden Skybridge

Golden Skybridge offers something for everyone, and the excitement is easy to access. Our walking trails and sky-high suspension bridges are just minutes from Golden. 1-800-270-1238 www.goldenskybridge.com

Golden’s Edelweiss Swiss Village

Tucked away in a clutch of spindly pines, and perched on a rocky shelf above the TransCanada Highway on the north side of Golden, sits a slice of Canadian mountaineering history that most people have no idea exists. A near-forgotten place (now over 110 years old) and consisting of six one-of-a-kind homes and a treasure trove of stories, the Swiss Edelweiss Village has stood the test of time. But now, its future hangs in the balance.

“50 Switzerlands in one!” As far as marketing slogans go, this little gem, authored by the world’s foremost mountaineer at the end of 19th century, Englishman Edward Whymper, definitely got some traction. The Canadian Pacific Railway, busy building world-class resort hotels in Western Canada at the time, jumped all over it. The goal, of course, was to lure tourists from abroad to the Canadian Rockies to recreate in the snow-smothered mountains that encased the region. And from all over the world, wide-eyed and eager to climb, they came!

However, with that influx of inexperienced adventure seekers, wannabe climbers who wanted to walk the ridgelines where the mountain goats roamed, the CPR had a little “issue” on their hands. These “newbies” to the mountains were accident prone. They got themselves into trouble out there. After all,

high on the rocky ramparts, life can be difficult. Dangerous. Deadly. They needed help. Enter the Swiss guides.

When the CPR first started hiring professional mountain guides from Switzerland (the first guides started coming in 1897), they only came on a seasonal basis. However, due to the length of the journey from Switzerland and the potential for year round work in Canada (the guides were also instrumental in the development of the skiing industry in Western Canada) they began moving to Canada on a permanent basis with their families. Obviously, they needed places to live. Homes that honoured their Swiss heritage, complete with many of the architectural themes of their homeland, made some sense.

In 1911 the CPR built six Swiss-style chalets, homes for these pioneering mountain guides and their families, on a beautiful bench above Golden. The Swiss Edelweiss Village was born. Not surprisingly, the impact, the legacy, that the Swiss guides have left on the mountaineering scene in Western Canada is substantial. An entire industry, a way of life, was nurtured and made possible by these skilled guides; men who were well versed in safe mountain travel. And for generations, until this

Golden’s Edelweiss Swiss Village

very day, Canadian mountaineering history is being written - and revered around the world - because of the contributions of Swiss guides.

Some of their notable achievements in Canada include hundreds of first ascents, implementation of safe climb ing techniques, alpine training for thousands of people, helicopter skiing, mountain rescue, avalanche control, construction of alpine huts, and a general culture of appreciation, awe, and reverence for the mountains.

So, with this foundation firmly established, with all of the legendary stories and contributions, their unique vil lage in Golden holds significant heritage value for both Canada and Switzerland, not to mention the thousands of people whose lives have been positively impacted by the Swiss guides for the past 120 years.

In 1959, Walter Feuz, the last of the Swiss guides to live in the village, purchased the properties from the CPR and, up until his death in the mid-80s, his family called

the village home. After his passing, the properties were in herited by his daughter and now, as yet another generation passes, the descendents own and manage the village.

However, time, as it always does, has impacted the site. Funding is needed to restore the properties and terrain. Unfortunately, due to the location, government support for restoration has been challenging.

Recently, the Swiss Edelweiss Village Foundation was cre ated with the vision to preserve and promote the village for present and future generations to enjoy. “Our vision is to make it a historic heritage site, a cultural hub of educa tion, and a world-class destination,” says Dr. IIona Spaar, a Swiss-Canadian Historian and a board member with the foundation. (Currently access to the site are not permitted) “With opportunities presented by community engagement and crowdfunding, we believe we can make this village a reality.” For more information visit swissvillage.ca.

By Andrew Penner

Experience the Golden Triangle

Enjoyed by cyclists for more than 20 years, this 310 km loop tour offers spectacular views as you will cross the Continental Divide twice. The communities of Golden, Radium Hot Springs, and Lake Louise serve as the three points of the triangle, and all three offer a full range of experiences, year-round.

In recent years, The Golden Triangle has been discovered by both motorcyclists as well as campers. Sure, it’s driveable in a day, but plan for 3 or 4 days, to explore everything these parks and communities have to offer. Stop regularly, breathe deeply, and allow the energy here to recharge your soul.

Situated at the confluence of Kicking Horse and Columbia rivers, our adventure starts in Golden, BC, a hub of outdoor adventure, from white-water rafting to Via Ferrata and para gliding. Wildlife viewing opportunities abound: a grizzly bear refuge (for Boo), wolf sanctuary, and bird watching along the lush Columbia River Wetlands.

please drive with care. The road is wide, climbing 800m to the Continental Divide and then down again to Castle Junction. Stop at any of the numerous viewpoints and hiking trails, such as the Paint Pots.

From Castle Junction, follow Hwy #1 west, or the much more tranquil Hwy 1A, to picturesque Lake Louise. Enjoy a walk along the lakeshore or ride the summer gondola for amazing sightseeing experience.

Drive west over the Kicking Horse Pass and into Yoho National Park. The town of Field has an excellent Visitor Centre as well as several affordably priced, quaint guesthouses. See pg 57. Continue west back to Golden.

From Golden, take Hwy 95 (recently upgraded) south 103 km to Radium Hot Springs. This leg runs adjacent to the Columbia River, and is nestled between the Rocky Mountains to the east and the Bugaboo & Purcell Mountains to the west.

As you approach the hamlet of Parson, watch for a sign that will direct you to The World’s Largest Paddle! Then due east of Spillimacheen, Diana Lake and the white rocks at the top of The Judge beckon fit outdoor enthusiasts to tackle this superb full-day hike. For a more leisurely time, seek out local artisans selling their crafts.

The village of Radium Hot Springs is a year-round, full-service destination. Try out one of the many great restaurants in town. On summer weekends, bring your lawn chair and enjoy Music on the Main Street.

From Radium, take Hwy 93 up into Kootenay National Park. This 105 km leg has the highest concentration of wildlife, so

tour the

Experience Glacier National Park

High on Adventure

Glacier National Park is the birthplace of mountaineering in North America with the first recreational technical climbs recorded in 1888. While adventure seekers can still get their adrenalin going with technical mountaineering and glacier travel, today’s network of trails caters to all abilities ranging from short, level strolls to ambitious climbs. Be inspired by dramatic mountain views, humbled by giant ancient trees or captivated by the secrets of the abandoned railway over Rogers Pass. This summer, visit the Beaver Valley to view the mosaic of burned and unburned forest left after the Prairie Hills wildfire, in 2017. Look for new vegetation and wildflowers sprouting up among remnant stands of old growth forest. Be safe, please use caution near burned areas as remaining trees can be unstable.

Major Rogers Route

Travel through time in Rogers Pass National Historic Site and discover human courage and ingenuity. From the early trail blazing for the final link in Canada’s first trans-continental

railway, to road building and railway engineering feats, to the modern avalanche mitigation measures of today, the route through the pass brings Canada together as a nation. Explore Rogers Pass by car through snow sheds and steep avalanche terrain. Stop in at the Rogers Pass Discovery Centre to learn more about the triumphs and tragedies of travel through this treacherous pass. And take a stroll along abandoned rail beds.

Winter Wonderland

Glacier National Park is legendary for its snowfall, attracting ski-touring enthusiasts from around the world with an array of glades, alpine bowls, and icefields. All ski destinations in the park require knowledge of travel in avalanche terrain. If you plan to tour in Glacier, be aware that many areas of the park have restricted and prohibited access in winter. Please visit parkscanada.gc.ca/skirogerspass before you go. Skiers are urged to wear avalanche transceivers, carry a shovel and probe, and be prepared for self-rescue.

Abbott Ridge Trail, Photo Courtesy of Mari Omori

Experience Glacier and Mount Revelstoke National Parks

Special Feature

Meadows in the Sky Parkway

Begins 1.5 km east of Revelstoke. The only place in a Canadian National Park where you can drive to the top of a mountain. This road switch-backs 26 km up Mount Revelstoke to flower filled meadows. A free shuttle service takes you the last few kms in the summer months. Ten trail heads at the summit including the Koo Koo Sint Trail that details David Thompson’s travels in the area. The heritage of three First Nations peoples - the Secwepemc, Ktunaxa, and Okanagan is highlighted in the First Footsteps Trail.

Parks Canada has made a number of changes for the 2022 season visit parkscanada.gc.ca for up-to-date information.

See Campground Directory on pg 66

See legend on page 67

Nels Nelsen Historic Ski Jump

Exhibit celebrates international ski jumping (1915-71). Hike from the Railway Museum or the Nels Nelsen Historic Area on Meadows in the Sky Parkway.

Giant Cedars Boardwalk

Approx 30 min east of Revelstoke. An excellent stop for a walk and picnic, it can also accomodate larger vehicles and provides a 20 min interpretive walk through rare old growth forest (700 year old trees)

Hemlock Grove Trail 54 km (40 min) east of Revelstoke. Explore the rain forest. A 10 minute interpretive boardwalk winds through ancient Western Hemlocks.

Loop Brook Trail

63 km (45 min) east of Revelstoke. This 30 minute interpretive loop winds you through historic pillars which once held up a railway engineering feat.

Illecillewaet/Asulkan

Valleys

66 km (50 min) east of Revelstoke. Several hikes begin at this trailhead. Explore mountaineering routes established more than a century ago.

7

Rogers Pass Discovery Centre

Summit of Rogers Pass: 76 km (55 min) west of Golden; 72 km (52 min) east of Revelstoke. Parks Canada Info Desk 250-837-7500. Regular Summer hours: 8am - 7pm daily. Theatre & exhibits: history, wildlife & avalanches.

8

Bear Creek Falls Trail

Approx 1 hr east of Revelstoke. A short hike (1 hour round trip) to a waterfall. The Connaught Creek waters cascade over the falls to join the Beaver River a short distance downstream. Bathroom available in the parking area.

Beaver Valley Day-Use Area 85 km (65 min) east of Revelstoke. The Beaver Valley is a place of fragile beauty with dynamic mountainsides, shaped by mudflows and landslides. In the warmest part of Glacier, this day-use area is one of the park’s first and last snow-free facilities every season.

Experience the West Kootenays

The traditional route east from Revelstoke is along the Trans-Canada Hwy 1 to Golden (see pg 57). To take a path less travelled, follow the scenic Hwy 23 south towards Nelson and the free ferry across Upper Arrow Lake. This waterway is part of the Columbia River System, so if you like the calming effect of water, you’ll love this route!

The road forks as you depart Galena Bay. Hwy 23 heads south to the serenity of Halcyon Hot Springs. Open year-round, your worries will melt away while you take in the incredible view of Upper Arrow Lake and The Monashee Mountains. With its quaint village-like atmosphere, the welcoming philosophy here is simple. Healing waters should be shared with the world. With luxury accommodations nestled in nature, Halcyon is ready to help you rest, relax and rejuvenate. Call now or visit their website to book your stay. halcyon-hotsprings.com

30 minutes south, and flanked by the Selkirk and Monashee mountain ranges, Nakusp is another great place to rejuvenate both the body and mind. Soak in hot springs. Relax at a spa. Sandy Beach is just a short walk from the shops and restaurants located downtown. Surrounded by gardens, shade trees and

picnic tables, this beautiful beach is the perfect place to while away an afternoon while entertaining the kids. Ready to stretch your legs? Waterfront Walkway is a level, paved pathway with stunning views of the Arrow Lakes and surrounding mountain ranges. You’ll find it just a block south of main street.

If you follow BC Hwy 6 southeast of Nakusp for 25 minutes you will arrive at the northern end of Slocan Lake. Several small communities dot its eastern edge, which is 39 km long. It has a maximum depth of almost 300 m (978 ft)!

The mountains to the east were the focus of the Silver Rush of the 1890’s, at which time, Slocan City was a bustling, boom town filled with saloons, hotels, rail cars filled with ore and miners in pursuit of the ever-elusive mother lode. During WWII, a Japanese Canadian Internment Camp was located in Slocan. One of those interned here was the celebrity scientist, David Suzuki. To learn more about the WWII camps, visit the Nikkei Internment Memorial Centre in New Denver, BC.

Driving south along Hwy 6 from Slocan, you will reach the junction of Hwy 3A, at about the mid-point between Castlegar

and Nelson. The alternative to taking Hwys 23, 6 and 3A to get to Nelson from Galena Bay, is to follow scenic Hwy 31 southeast from Galena Bay, following the shores of Kootenay and Trout lakes, 134 km to Kaslo, BC.

A stroll down Front Street in Kaslo brings you to the majestic SS Moyie, one of the last great sternwheelers. It operated on Kootenay Lake for 59 years.

Reuters calls the Kaslo Jazz Etc Summer Festival one of “the Top 10 places to enjoy outdoor summer music.” The unique floating stage transforms Kaslo Bay Park into a natural green amphitheater that sends live music reverberating out over Kootenay Lake.

Festival goers dance in the sand, swim around the stage, or relax in the grass. All weekend long, world-class musicians perform against a breathtaking backdrop of mountains and vast skies. The intimate, laid-back vibe of this festival has been seducing audiences since 1992. The 29th festival has already been scheduled to July 30 - August 1, 2022. So, mark your calendars now and be sure to attend!

Following Hwy 31 south from Kaslo, for 30 mins, we arrive at Balfour - a small but vibrant community, catering to the avid hiker, biker, golfer, boater and fisherman. Fine dining, great pub food and delicious baked goods will satisfy any craving. Play a round at their golf courses; but don’t let the stunning views of the mountains and lake be a distraction!

Decision time…

Nelson is a small enchanting city famous for its heritage. The movie ‘Roxanne’, starring Steve Martin and Daryl Hannah was filmed here in 1987. If Nelson beckons, head west from Balfour along Hwy 3A.

However, if you’re heading to Creston, drive to the loading area for the Kootenay Lake Ferry. You will find it located next to the Dock ‘n’ Duck, in Balfour. Trip Advisor rates this FREE ferry ride (the world’s longest) with 5 Stars! It ends near the artisan’s enclave of Crawford Bay.

Experience the laid-back charm of West Kootenays. You will leave with a lifetime of great memories!

Schedule 2022

NOTE: Schedule is subject to change please confirm departure times at DriveBC.com

Banff National Park - Map on pg 17

Castle Mountain May Sept $21.97 43 • • • 403-522-3833 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping

Johnston Canyon* June Sept $28.00 132 • • • • • • 403-522-3833 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping

Lake Louise Tent* June Sept $28.00 206 • • • • • • 877-737-3783 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping

Lake Louise Trailer* Year Round $33.01 189 • • • • • 877-737-3783 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping Soft-Sided camping in winter only (mid-November to mid-April)

Mosquito Creek June Oct $17.99 32 • 403-522-3833 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping

Protection Mountain June Sept $21.97 72 • • • 877-737-3783 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping

Rampart Creek June Oct $17.99 50 • 403-522-3833 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping Tunnel Mt. Village I* May Oct $28.00 618 • • • • • • 877-737-3783 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping Tunnel Mt. Village II* Year Round $33.01 188 • • • • • • 877-737-3783 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping Tunnel Mt. Trailer* May Oct $39.04 321 • • • • • 877-737-3783 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping

Two Jack Main* June Sept $21.97 380 • • • 877-737-3783 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping

Two Jack Lakeside* May Oct $28.00 64 • • • • • 877-737-3783 pc.gc.ca/BNP-camping

Marble

Icefield May Oct $15.70 33 • 888-773-8888 pc.gc.ca/jaspercaming Tent

Honeymoon Lake May Sept $15.70 35 • 888-773-8888 pc.gc.ca/jaspercaming Icefield Centre RV Apr - Oct $15.70 100 888-773-8888 pc.gc.ca/jaspercaming

Jonas May Sept $15.70 25 • 888-773-8888 pc.gc.ca/jaspercaming Kerkeslin June Sept $15.70 42 • 888-773-8888 pc.gc.ca/jaspercaming Pocahontas May Sept $21.50 140 • • • 888-773-8888 pc.gc.ca/jaspercaming

Snaring River May Sept $15.70 62 • 888-773-8888 pc.gc.ca/jaspercaming Wabasso May Sept $21.50 $27.40 231 • • • • 888-773-8888 pc.gc.ca/jaspercaming Wapiti (Summer) May Oct $27.40 $32.30 364 • • • • • 888-773-8888 pc.gc.ca/jaspercaming Wapiti Winter Oct May $27.40 $32.30 93 • • • 888-773-8888 pc.gc.ca/jaspercaming