The Explorer - Magazine Issue 1

Our collection of food adventures put the destinations’ cuisine front and centre. You’ll explore the highlights, cities and sites, learning about a country’s culture and history through its food.

Michael

Your 2023 Destination Hot List

Where do the travel professionals go on holiday? We asked some top travel editors to share what’s on their bucket list for the year ahead.

Japan

Iam about to book a trip to Japan. I went there years ago and ticked off a few touristy spots (Kyoto, Tokyo, Osaka) but a friend recently went, and I now have major Instagram-envy, plus it’s impossible to do it justice in just one visit. On my list this time: Naoshima, an immersive art island famous for its galleries; Shirakawa–go for its mountains, padi fields and pretty Alpine chalets and Okinawa for its beautiful beaches and mad Spam sushi (it was once a US military airbase). Last but by no means least, there’s Tokyo again for all its quirky weirdness which I’ll never ever tire of. Constantly evolving, the city’s mashup of East and West, ancient and modern means there’s always something new to experience. And any country that loves a musical loo gets my vote…

Lucy Dunn Lifestyle editor for The Telegraph, The Times and Grazia lucydunn.uk

Botswana

Ifulfilled a long-held dream in 2022 when I went on safari to Botswana. I knew that the bush would immediately settle in my heart, and that is exactly what happened –I came home with a longing to return, and to spend weeks or even months there.

Every day was an education, teaching me as much about our own species as about others. We are more like them than we care to admit.

Xenia Taliotis

Editor, writer, and contributor to The Telegraph, i News, Women’s Health and Breathe

@xeniataliotis

Argentina

Following Argentina’s third World Cup win, the South American country remains high on my 2023 wish list. Buenos Aires has somehow evaded me for years – its grand architecture, exciting nightlife, legendary culinary scene, and football fanaticism are all essential in a city break. But the winelands of Mendoza, the vast expanses of Patagonia and the spectacular Iguazu Falls are all reasons to explore this alluring destination.

Riddell Editor of National Geographic Traveller patriddell.com @patriddell

Pat

Ever since reading Agatha Christie’s Death on the Nile, I’ve wanted to get to Egypt. The thought of wandering through the temples of Luxor or exploring the Pyramids of Giza seems like a real adventure. I’ve investigated doing it independently in the past, but those places aren’t very easy to get to by road, especially not if you enjoy your creature comforts, like I do, which is why a Nile cruise seems like it would be my dream trip – dipping my toe into an extraordinary past while enjoying the boat life.

Jill Starley-Grainger Content Editor and Travel Journalist

jetsetjill.com

@jetsetjourneysofficial

Egypt Costa Rica

Of all my trips planned for early 2023 – to Cairo, say, or one transporting a cargo of wine from Porto to Brittany by traditional sailing ship – it’s Santa Teresa in Costa Rica that excites. It’s not just that I’ve never quite made it to Costa Rica yet. Not even the idea of wild beaches before the jungle and friendly surf in warm seas – handy if, like me, you’ve been out of the water for two years with an injury. No, it’s the chance to experience a laidback hippy-chic resort before it becomes the Next Big Thing. You didn’t hear it from me.

James Stewart

Journalist for Times/ Sunday Times, FT, Telegraph, Travel Writer of the Year 2021

james-stewart.com @itsjamesstewart

Find the full hot list online, with our recommended trips to plan your own 2023 adventure. explore.co.uk/2023hotlist

1

SNORKEL AMONG MANTA RAYS IN THE MALDIVES

Hop on a traditional dhoni cruise and weave through the turquoise waters of the idyllic Maldives. Dive overboard and catch glimpses of mantas and other tropical sealife while floating weightlessly above vibrant corals.

2

PARTICIPATE IN A TEA CEREMONY IN JAPAN

Brits do tea well, but the Japanese do tea on a whole other level. Learn the history and intricate meaning behind a Japanese tea ceremony. A tradition steeped in history with deep roots in Zen, it’s a precise ritual performed typically in a tearoom with tatami floor. You’ll be guided on the process of making your own matcha green tea by the master –replicate the process at home to add theatre to your storytelling.

3

COME FACE-TO-FACE WITH MOUNTAIN GORILLAS IN UGANDA

Your hairs will stand on end when you first glimpse this majestic being through the

stories to tell for a lifetime

You know the ‘highlights’ of a country before you visit. You research the sites, the attractions, even the restaurants. But the stories you tell when you get back are usually of different memories altogether – an incredible encounter, a special bond, a memorable meal or a challenge overcome.

jungle. Keeping silent to avoid disturbing the gorillas just adds to the palpable atmosphere. Spend a day tracking these incredible creatures as well as 13 other primate species with a local guide whose knowledge and expertise will blow your mind.

4

BE DWARFED BY THE WORLD’S HIGHEST MOUNTAINS IN NEPAL Trek through the vast natural amphitheatre of the Annapurna Sanctuary with pinch-yourself views across the Himalaya. Stay in family-run teahouses along the way to discover the warmth of Nepali hospitality against a stunning mountain backdrop.

5

LEARN TO COOK LIKE AN ITALIAN

Italian cuisine is known and copied all over the world but very few actually know how to cook it properly. Learn how to prepare Italian dishes from the real experts – the country’s lovely and charismatic residents.

6

WATCH AN ICEBERG FLIP OVER

Seeing icebergs in person means travelling to the Arctic or Antarctic, which is an adventure in itself. But to watch an iceberg –known for being steady and sturdy – flip over in front of you? Simply mind boggling!

“Dive overboard and catch glimpses of mantas and other tropical sealife”

WITH A VIEW

ROAM

From sleepy hilltop villages to iconic coastal walks, the Amalfi Coast has a global reputation for its splendour. Solo traveller Paula Hugus shares how she found unforgettable beauty, even in the little, unassuming moments.

Words –– Kirsty Bosley

One of the world’s greatest coastal pathways, the Walk of the Gods offers heart-filling views of azure blue waters from crumbling clifftops, abandoned stone farmhouses and pretty, flower-filled trails. On Explore’s Amalfi Coast Walking trip, it’s perhaps this walk that sticks most in the mind of travellers, the climax of a week of wanders in one of the most spectacular regions of Italy. Taking a step off the very well-worn historic path, first time Explore traveller

Paula found that even a small stumble could make for a precious memory.

“Vegetation lined the trail, plants that I hadn’t realised were wild herbs until I stepped off the path. As I did, wild mint and oregano were crushed underfoot, filling the air with perfume. It really enhanced what was already a fabulous walk. Wild poppies lined the way and there were cacti growing on the side of rocks. Life was all around us, offering one fantastic view after another.”

Paula had made the decision to travel from her native United States to Italy after watching videos online of the scenery and laid-back lifestyle enjoyed by those who call pretty, pastel-coloured towns like Positano their home. She said: “I was absolutely enchanted by what I’d seen of the Amalfi Coast and I decided that I wanted to go and experience it for myself but I didn’t want to just hire a car and travel alone. It felt too complicated to plan. And so I got to researching, feeling it would be best to link in with a group. Explore had great reviews from other travellers and the itinerary looked ideal. So while I hadn’t been on a group walking trip before, I decided to sign up.”

Paula says, that while she’s not an expert hiker, the ‘Leisurely and Moderate’ walking grade on this adventure gave her some confidence that it would be a good first group holiday. “I bought hiking boots and undertook an exercise programme at home to ensure I was fit enough for the walks,” she said. “I prepared by walking through my neighbourhood at home which was helpful as it would turn out that there would be some challenging walks ahead.”

“Vegetation lined the trail, plants that I hadn’t realised were wild herbs until I stepped off the path. As I did, wild mint and oregano were crushed underfoot, filling the air with perfume.”

While adventures of this kind might be new for Paula, she has become accustomed to solo travel over the years. “I was a flight attendant for 15 years and have seen the world by myself, mostly spending a lot of time in Asia and South America. I’ve been to the world’s big cities but as I’ve gotten older, I’m more attracted to those smaller walking trips.”

In total, there were 12 other adventurers in Paula’s group, ranging in age between 38 and 86. Most were solo travellers too, though they were also joined by two married couples, all from different backgrounds. “It was the nicest group of people,” said Paula. “Some of us were retired but there were nurses, teachers and more. It was such a good mix, like-minded people with interesting stories to tell. It was ideal.”

Many members of the group were experienced travellers and their experiences of seeing the world meant they had plenty to talk about during relaxed evenings, sharing dinner in the family-run agriturismo where they were staying. That said, Paula got to enjoy the solitude of solo travel in the way she’d hoped.

“I anticipated what my needs were and made sure they could be accommodated before I signed up,” she said.

“I wanted a single room because I wasn’t keen to share with someone and I needed the opportunity to do my own thing. I wanted to opt out of some of the activities too and this group made that so easy. On one evening, a few members of the group were going to a restaurant down the street for dinner and I didn’t want to go as

Unusual places to visit as a solo traveller

1. Uzbekistan

This up-and-coming destination is perfect for solo travellers looking for something different. Explore the fascinating Silk Road cities with their dazzlingly colourful palaces and madrasahs.

2. Bhutan

Combine watching vibrant festival dances with breathtaking hikes along ridgelines, past dzongs and monasteries (including the fabled Taktsang ‘Tiger’s Nest’).

3. Colombia

If you’re searching for variety, look no further than Colombia. It enables you to take in the seaside, lush greenery and modern city life all in one trip. And that’s without even mentioning the food!

4. Benin

A little-visited destination full of unique hidden gems. The people and their mesmerising voodoo practices are what make Benin so utterly fascinating. Don’t miss out!

Do you want some more ideas? Have a look at explore.co.uk/unusual-solo

“The agriturismo was run by a family who worked out in the garden, raising their own chickens, cows and growing vegetables. They prepared all of the food and we ate family-style at two long tables.”

I was just so tired! So instead, I walked to the local market and bought a box of strawberries and some cheese with crackers and sat on the terrace in my room, looking out at the view, smelling the fresh air. I enjoyed that so much. We were all very independent and so no one minded it at all or expected me to join them. Other times, we’d sit out on the patio, drink a glass of wine together and chit-chat. I couldn’t have asked for anything better. In fact, we have all stayed in touch, and most of the group have got together again for more walks.”

Even when they weren’t on the hiking trails, the group were sampling the best of the region. In the agriturismo, a traditional farmhouse, they were refuelling on the freshest produce available, grown and farmed right there on the family’s land. Paula said: “The agriturismo was run by a very congenial family,” she said. “They live in various houses dotted around the property and work out in the garden, raising their own chickens, cows and growing their own vegetables. It was just what I wanted, a more rural experience. They prepare all of the food themselves and we ate family-style at two big long tables. They even make their own wine. Our rooms were clean and comfortable, nothing overly fancy, but with lovely views. I was lucky that from my room I could see the sea in the distance, despite being up in the mountains. It was the best of both worlds.”

While this home-away-from-home offered relaxation and comfort, it’s the trails on the Amalfi Coast trip that had lured the group to the area. Their guide knew the area inside out, taking them on a well-planned mix of relaxed rambles and more challenging climbs; along the Ancient Republic’s Path towards the coast from the farm, through

iconic Capri, decorated with bougainvillea, and the ancient limestone stairway above San Lazzaro. The pretty woodlands and valleys that lead towards the Vallone delle Ferriere are perhaps second only to the trip’s final, show-stopping walk. Paula said: “Our guide was a fabulous leader, so personable and very experienced in hiking and mountain climbing. He knew all there was to know about the area and he was so prepared, carrying extra water in case we needed any and a first aid kit to help with sore feet! He knew the best places to eat and the most picturesque spots to stop and soak it all in. The scenery is just stupendous. It never disappoints, there’s something new and jaw-dropping around every curve.”

The best trail of them all, for Paula, was the Walk of the Gods, which the group traversed on the very last day of their adventure. It was a fitting way to connect on a deeper level with a region so revered for its beauty.

“The trail has a reputation for being one of the most spectacular walks in the world and for good reason,” says Paula. “You start high in the mountains, winding your way down through forests, under huge limestone cliffs and around a bend that opens out into a field with abandoned farmhouses. It really sparked my imagination to how life must have been like there a hundred years ago, what it would be like to live there, raising goats and making your own wine. Now they’re in ruins, but it paints such a clear picture in your mind.

When you arrive in pretty Nocelle, it’s time to begin your final descent down stone steps and into the colourful seaside village of Positano, past flower gardens and into the town where we had the rest of our final day to explore. Historically, the only income for people in that area was raising goats or growing olives and the only way to get around was those old stairs. I felt like I was walking back in time, there’s such an atmosphere. It was eye-opening to follow in the footsteps of those who would have travelled between the beautiful towns of the Amalfi Coast on these well-trodden pathways.”

Walking the Amalfi Coast explore.co.uk/NAW

“I felt like I was walking back in time. It was eye-opening, to follow in the footsteps of those who would have travelled between the beautiful towns of the Amalfi Coast on these welltrodden pathways.”

Let the Explore team inspire you with ideas for your next big adventure. New trips, new places, new faces – you heard it here first!

Festivals & spectacles

For centuries, festivals and natural spectacles have been bringing people together to celebrate their history, culture and nature. Here are some that we think you might not have heard of yet – and could make your must-see list for 2023!

What an honour

Our World

GUATEMALA

GIANT KITE FESTIVAL

On the Day of the Dead, the people of Sumpango, fly giant kites to honour the dead. The kites traditionally can take up to 40 days to build and are up to 30 meters high! This tradition dates back 3000 years and still today is seen as a way of communicating with the beyond. explore.co.uk/GM

We are excited to work with amazing partners that care as much as we do about having a positive impact on the people and places we visit.

Mark Steadman, our wonderful ex-tour leader in Laos who went on to set up Lone Buffalo (a charity we’ve been proud to support over the last 10 years), has been awarded an MBE in the New Year Honours List for services to youth development in Laos. Congratulations to Mark – this is so well-deserved and a real good news story to start the year. You can learn more at lonebuffalo.org

USA AN ANNULAR ECLIPSE IN MONUMENT VALLEY

The tricky thing with watching eclipses in the UK is that cloudy conditions often limit the experience. Maximise your chances of a real out-of-this-world experience by witnessing an annual solar eclipse surrounded by the cinematographic scenery of Monument Valley. explore.co.uk/YGE

“Lone Buffalo builds brighter futures for young people in Laos.”

Look who’s back!

We’re incredibly excited to be re-launching some much-loved destinations for 2023.

HIGHLIGHTS OF LEBANON

When we launched this back in 2019, it was hugely popular! Now that the FCDO has changed its travel advice and we can resume visiting, we’re delighted (and sure you will be too) to see this trip back up and running. explore.co.uk/LL

BORNEO WILDLIFE HIGHLIGHTS

The jungles of Sabah are calling! Boat rides along winding waterways, mud volcanos, an Orangutan Sanctuary and lots of other exciting wildlife spotting awaits you on this fabulous 10-day adventure. explore.co.uk/MAB

NATURAL WONDERS OF GUYANA

Visit the lost corner of South America in a fascinating exploration of pristine rainforest, staying in riverside eco lodges with indigenous communities, spotting caiman by torchlight and eating delicious Guyanese food at a small local ‘backyard café’. explore.co.uk/GYA

Recipe

Cochinita Pibil

Having spent some of her childhood living in Mexico, Explore’s Senior Operations Manager Yvonne Ramsay has always held a very special place for Mexico in her heart. Falling in love with the people, lifestyle, language and, of course, cuisine, Yvonne has spent more than 13 years travelling, living and leading tours in Mexico. She knows all about good, authentic Mexican cuisine and her favourite dish is one that she always comes back to: Cochinita Pibil

SERVES 8 PEOPLE (PERFECT FOR A FAMILY FIESTA)

Ingredients

5 tbsp achiote seeds

1½ tbsp dried oregano

1½ tbsp black pepper and cinnamon

1¼ tbsp cumin and ½ tbsp cloves

1 tbsp salt

14 garlic cloves

1½ cups of sour orange juice or 1 cup fresh lime juice

2 pork shoulders

Banana leaves Habanero salsa and pickled onions to serve

Method

1. Add 5 tbsp achiote seeds and 1½ tbsp dried oregano to a pestle and mortar. Add 1½ tbsp black pepper and cinnamon, 1¼ tbsp cumin and ½ tbsp cloves. Grind until powdery.

2. Combine mixture with 1 tbsp salt, 14 garlic cloves peeled and chopped and 1½ cups of sour orange juice or 1 cup fresh lime juice. Blend until smooth.

3. Take 2 pork shoulders and cut into 3-inch wide cross-sections. Add to mixture in a large bowl and marinade for at least 2 hours. The longer you marinade, the better.

4. Cut 3 sections of banana leaf, line a roasting pan, place the marinated meat on the leaves, then add 3 more banana leaves on top. Roast meat for several hours until thoroughly tender.

5. While cooking, prepare a habanero salsa and pickled onions.

6. When ready to serve, remove the banana leaves and serve the meat with salsa and onions.

Where most Brits once travelled simply for sunshine, now we’re increasingly travelling for food. Award-winning food writer Clare Finney looks at the rise of the culinary tourist.

Words –– Clare Finney

We’d booked the seafood restaurant before we booked anything else. Flights, trains, accommodation – all were immaterial, if we could not have that table by the sea wall in that restaurant overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Our whole trip revolved around it; that and the tapas joint in Seville recommended to us by acclaimed Spanish chef Jose Pizarro. Only with those two culinary lines drawn did we bother colouring in the rest of the holiday.

This is no longer unusual. When Explore looked into launching a collection of gastronomic tours, 50% of people say local cuisine is influential in their holiday destination booking. We’re travelling for street food: for pad Thai, masala chai and South Korea’s bibimbap. We’re travelling for pastries. We know that croissants and madeleines taste different when enjoyed with strong coffee on a cobbled street outside a Parisian café.

Though Britain – and particularly London – has never had such a diversity of restaurants and street food stalls, these seem only to have whetted our appetite for the real thing. 76% of people say they’re more adventurous when it comes to cuisine on holiday, compared to 66% when at a restaurant. 48% say eating local cuisine helps them better understand their travel destination’s culture. We are fast becoming culinary tourists: the people for whom proximity to the beach, museums or cathedrals all come secondary to the food.

But how has this happened? How have we gone from a people geared towards all-inclusive hotels, Irish pubs and restaurants serving ‘Western-friendly’ dishes like omelettes, to travelling for tiraditos? In part, it’s because our culinary culture has changed. We’re more exposed to food from different cultures and styles of eating – sharing plates, tapas, thalis – and we’re more aware of where our food comes from. We’re more foodie: a result of cultural change and the rise of social media, which has shrunk the world and made its food more visible.

“I think food has always mattered for a lot of people. I remember going to France with my family 40 years ago, and my mum and dad talking about where we’d go to eat mussels and having French bread and Orangina and it would be so exciting,” says food writer Rachel Roddy. “But now all these things we would have in our heads as strong symbols are out there as visual reminders, thanks to social media.”

Prior to the advent of social media, food loving tourists relied on the Good Food Guide and Michelin Guide to light their culinary travels: solid and reliable books, which were minimally illustrated and inevitably geared toward middle class westerners. They were not a TikTok of the ‘cheese pull’ on a Korean Hot Dog or an Instagram series on Nonna’s hand-rolling tortellini.

“Food focused TV shows have also had a huge part to play in the popularity of culinary tourism,” says Shokofeh Hejazi, head of insight at The Food People, a food trends agency. “Series like Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, or Netflix’s Chef’s Table take people on a journey through food – they make cult destinations of the places they visit.”

Stephen Lironi is a restauranteur in London, bringing back the seafood tapas he grew up eating on family holidays in Spain. He has travelled his whole life for food: for tiny cafes and seafood shacks as well as Michelin star restaurants with tasting menus that “feel more like theatre than a meal.” Such restaurants “shine a spotlight on a town. People come from all over the world to visit it,” he says, citing three-starred Aponiente in Cadiz in Spain as an example. “It’s a cultural jewel for Cadiz.”

It is the inextricability of food and place that makes travelling for food such a powerful experience: culturally, intellectually, and of course, for the senses. “I remember being told that eating is the most intimate thing you can do next to having sex,” Roddy recalls – “and it’s true. When you consume a local food, you are consuming the place.”

Being in Provence, with the aroma of lavender wafting from the fields and the feel of salt on your skin will make a glass of local rosé a completely different experience

“How have we gone from a people geared towards allinclusive hotels to travelling for tiraditos?”

to a pink in your local pub. “Your senses are more open and tuned in, and you get sensations you don’t get back home, that all come together in food and drink,” says Lironi. It enhances your experience of whatever you’re eating or drinking – but it also enables a cultural exchange with your hosts or dining companions. “Food is integral to local cultures and traditions,” continues Hejazi – “but eating is a universal language! So, what better way to immerse yourself in a new place, than to eat as the locals do.” There’s the thrill of the new, of course, but there’s also the wonder of discovering something familiar, seemingly transplanted from home. I remember sampling Salers cheese in a tiny fromagerie in France’s Auvergne region and remarking on its similarity to cheddar – only to learn that there’s a theory that cheddar was inspired by Salers, centuries ago.

“Eat local and you’ll find foods which are never exported,” enthuses Lironi. “You’ll find foods which are only made in that region. If you aren’t buying from supermarkets, but from market stalls or local shops, you’re going to get food from sea or fields within just a few kilometres.” The fresher the mozzarella, the better – so mozzarella is always better in Italy than in the UK, three days after making. Ditto Scottish scallops, say, or Fin de Claire oysters shucked at a shack in Marennes.

In a material and increasingly digital world, we’re learning to value experiences as much if not more than possessions. Meals make memories – not just of food, but of our companions and our conversations whose recollection may one day be rekindled via that same flavour or smell. We want memories, not cheap souvenirs. We want to feel connected; not through an app or an algorithm, but through breaking bread, clinking our glasses together – and being immersed in the sights, sounds and smells of being abroad.

The Female Chef by Clare Finney won Fortnum and Mason’s Debut Book Award last year. Her next book Hungry Heart, an exploration of food and love, was shortlisted for the Jane Grigson Award and is published by Quarto in June 2023.

Clare Finney Food journalist, writer, and author

@finneyclare

Foodie gems to inspire your next trip

MOROCCO | Meknes wine

Dating back to the Phoenician and Roman eras, Meknes’ wine scene is one of Morocco’s hidden gems. Like many Moroccan dishes, you’ll find Meknes’ wines are fruity and rich in flavour, often being infused with spices such as fennel seed and vanilla.

PERU | Pachamanca

In the mountainous regions of Peru you’ll find a traditional method of cooking dating back to the Incan Empire. Pachamanca –meaning ‘earth oven’ – involves cooking a wide range of spiced meats, vegetables and roots in a pit formed with hot stones.

INDIA | Kerala Sadhya

A particular food destination favourite for vegetarians and vegans, approximately 40% of India’s population eats a vegetarian diet. Sadya - meaning ‘banquet’ - is a shining example of Kerala’s vegetarian expertise, comprising vegetable-based dishes served on a banana leaf.

JORDAN | Zarb dinner

Under a vast sky of stars, the Bedouin prepare a traditional Zarb dinner, cooking tender meat and vegetables under hot desert sand. After a couple of hours the ‘lid’ is lifted to reveal the mouth-watering meat, with sides of mezze and rice to accompany.

JAPAN | Green Tea

Home to the highest quality leaf tea in Japan, Uji has deservedly taken the title of Japan’s green-tea-growing capital. A combination of fantastic soil, a misty climate and sloping hills makes this city perfect for growing this nourishing leaf, which can also be milled into matcha.

ITALY | Mercato Centrale

As the second largest indoor market in Europe, Livorno’s 19th-century Neoclassical Central Market is home to hundreds of stalls. Sample cured meats, aromatic cheeses and invigorating coffee as you wander through this historic marketplace.

THE DEFINITION OF

Known as the ‘Indiana Jones of the Deep’, maritime archaeologist

Mensun Bound has been excavating, evaluating and recording shipwrecks for decades. He was Director of Exploration for the project that found the Endurance, 10,000ft below the surface of the Weddell Sea. It was his most significant discovery yet.

Words –– Kirsty Bosley

our search for Sir Ernest Shackleton’s lost ship Endurance was the culmination of years of research and dedication. What is your connection to this particular wreck?

I come from the Falkland Islands, where Shackleton stayed three times. My father had his books and he actually stayed in our family lodgings on the waterfront in Port Stanley when he visited. We still have the visitors book in the family, with Shackleton’s signature. I could never escape the connection.

You journeyed to Antarctica on a mission to find Endurance, which sank in 1915. How did being there, in challenging weather conditions, impact you?

You empathise with Shackleton and the team and their situation on the ice. We were facing temperatures of -40° which is seriously dangerous. It’s enough to freeze mercury, or in my case, to pop my fillings! All the crew had, when the ship sank in 1915, was a linen tent, and it was so thin you could see the moon from inside.

Describe the moment you knew you’d found the wreckage.

We’d come through a really brutal period of weather, white-outs and crushing ice. The ship was stretched to the limit, the only one left on the Weddell Sea. I was just getting out of my polar gear, trying to warm up, when a young cadet appeared and said that the captain required our presence on the bridge immediately. We had a really bad season in 2019 where we lost our search vehicle.

I had bad memories and I hoped to God we hadn’t lost it again. We burst on to the bridge and project manager Nico Vincent thrust his phone in my face. There was

“Gents, let me introduce you to the Endurance!”. It was just a moment of incredible joy, just utter undiluted happiness.”

an amazing sonar image of a wreck on it and he said: “Gents, let me introduce you to the Endurance!” It was just a moment of incredible joy, just utter undiluted happiness. I felt like I had the breath of Shackleton himself on the back of my neck.

What were the first things you noticed about the ship?

Everywhere I looked I was reminded of people. When we came up over the stern of the ship, the paintwork intact, I saw the ship’s wheel. There’s a bit of film by ship photographer Frank Hurley of expedition geologist James Wordie sailing the ship, so at that point, I thought of him. Just behind is a companionway down to the accommodation deck and there’s a famous photograph of Hussey, who played the banjo, standing in the doorway. Seeing the door, I immediately thought of him. Up on the poop deck, there’s a wonderful bit in Shackleton’s book where he talks about looking down the engine room skylight and seeing the engines being shifted over to one side because of the damage that was occurring. When I saw that, I thought of him. I can count off all of the cabins on the ship and I know who was in them; I read every diary. It’s a very human experience. It’s not just a technical construct, it’s a construct full of people with all of their extraordinary merits and quibbles, infatuations and pettinesses!

Were there any surprising finds aboard?

We found a roll of linoleum! That might not sound too exciting, but seeing the patternwork, identical to the photograph we have of men scrubbing the winter quarters, was a moment. When I saw the portholes to Shackleton’s cabin, it was intoxicating. I knew that between the portholes, Rudyard Kipling’s poem ‘If’ would be in a frame, screwed to the wall. Little things like that just electrify –we were completely high on what we were seeing.

How did Endurance compare to what you’d imagined she’d be like?

I’ve done a lot of very deep ocean work so I made four predictions when we launched the project in 2019 and all of them were correct – I was quite proud of that. I said that the ship would be upright on the seabed, that she’d be proud on the seabed and not below the mud and that she’d be in a great state of preservation because it’d be too cold in the Weddell Sea for ship worms. I also said she’d be largely intact, which she was. I knew how incredibly strong she was built because I’d seen the plans.

You’ve been excavating shipwrecks with your wife Jo since the early 1980s. How did you tell her you’d found Endurance?

Jo and I had a code that we’d agreed on. If we found the ship, I’d message ‘bingo’. If there were multiple underlinings, it’d mean she was in incredible condition and if I added multiple exclamation marks, it’d mean she was just knock-your-socks-off beautiful beyond words. So I sent ‘bingo’ with the lines and exclamation marks! She was sobbing with happiness. That’s how it felt on the ship for us too, a feeling of pure euphoria. At last, we had succeeded!

Mensun’s book, The Ship Beneath The Ice, is out now via Pan Macmillan. The blow-by-blow account of his two expeditions to find the Endurance can be found now where all good books are sold, including on Amazon Kindle.

See all our trips to the Antarctic. explore.co.uk/Antarctica

Falklands Maritime Heritage Trust

Have teen, will travel

With his older siblings away at Uni, 14-year-old Ivor got to choose where to go on holiday during his October half-term break. The only criteria? His mum had to come too.

Words –– Sarah Bravo

‘I’m not sure I quite appreciated it at the time, but when I look back at my photos and see myself outside the Taj Mahal, I think ‘wow, not everyone gets to say they saw the Taj for real. It’s crazy really!

So, Mum said I could choose where to go for half-term, with both brothers away at Uni. I chose India straightaway. I’m a big cricket fan and I wanted to try something different. I’d never been to Asia, although we’ve been lucky enough to have done a bit of travelling growing up. I liked the idea of doing some big cities and a bit of safari. I went online and decided the Golden Triangle Adventure had a bit of everything, so chose that one.

We actually went out a day earlier because India was playing Pakistan and we thought it would be cool to watch it from a bar in Delhi. Explore sorted it out – they can organise the nights before and after most of their trips, which was great timing for us. It was a real nail biter – India ended up winning on the last ball. It was a brilliant atmosphere and one of the most memorable bits of the holiday for me.

The trip was quite full on. We did a lot, but it suited us. We were with one other family and ended up eating with them and sticking together. I was fine with that as it worked with the kind of holiday we were on. Maybe not if it was an all-inclusive round a pool type holiday.

Some of the stuff I was less interested in, like the monuments and temples but our local guide Bhanu made it easy – he’d give us a brief back story and then let us explore at our own pace, which suited me fine. It was a good balance and made sure the kids weren’t bored. It also meant I got some chill time.

One thing that surprised me about India was the crowds – the cities were really busy – so many people! You get lots of people staring at you or wanting to take a picture with you. I didn’t feel unsafe or threatened, they were just curious. I mean, it was a new place with lots of people and it felt unfamiliar but that was ok. At train stations you were mindful not to flaunt your money or your phone, but that’s not much different to being in London, is it? Also, we had an awesome tour guide – he knew how to beat the crowds!

The food was good. I’m a spice fan so I wasn’t worried, the curries are definitely a different experience from the local Indian takeaway! They weren’t exactly mild, but they didn’t burn your tongue off. My favourites? The lamb curry was excellent. And I was a big fan of the mango lassis that Bhanu introduced us to.

October was a good time to travel and not as hot as I had expected – t-shirt weather in the day, sometimes I wore a hoodie in the evenings. Three of the hotels had outside pools in the shade so we didn’t burn. I shared a room with my mum and dad. They were actually great to travel with, but next time I’d like a brother there too, just to have someone nearer my age.

My best day? Apart from the cricket match, it was definitely the safari. We had to get up super early, but I didn’t mind as I’m used to waking up early for school. We saw loads of animals – like a sloth bear and monkeys. No tigers sadly, but it made me want to do more of that type of thing.

The trip gave me a great experience and more confidence to travel. I think it will help me wherever I want to go in the world. India is full on – the people, the busy cities, the smells! I feel like I can go anywhere now.

Next trip? New York. I’ve always wanted to see the New York skyline. So that’s next please Mum!

Jae, 50

I’ve worked in travel most of my life, so my boys have been lucky to go to different places, but they are still typical teenage lads – they love their Xbox, watching YouTube, the occasional bit of basketball at the local park. None of them are super sporty or particularly into culture or adventure. But our family is quite scattered, so they’ve been used to long car and train journeys!

Ivor’s choice of India didn’t surprise me – he is a big cricket fan. What did surprise me was my husband deciding to come too – he’s not necessarily one for adventure travel, but I think the chance to watch India play from a bar in Delhi was too good to miss.

One of my top tips from years of travelling with a family is to book a lounge pre-flight. It starts the trip off on a high. We only ever fly economy, so to have a few hours enjoying the WIFI, free food and drink, and for the boys to charge their devices, is priceless. I also look for a deal and I can usually find them for £15–£20 a head.

“The trip gave me a great experience and more confidence to travel. I think it will help me wherever I want to go in the world.”

I let Ivor do the research for this holiday. I must confess I barely looked at the itinerary. I’m at an advantage in that I know and trust the company, but also, I have three boys, a dog, a husband, a mortgage, and a job. This trip was about not having to make decisions about anything! I knew nothing was going to keep me up all night, on my phone checking the best places to eat, what train to catch, what to visit and how to avoid the crowds

we had the most incredible tour leader who made it all happen.

Every evening, our guide Bhanu would sit us down and tell us if the boys needed long trousers for the next day, or if the girls needed to cover their arms. He’d let us know if we needed to pack our daysacks light due to baggage restrictions or take a bag with sun cream. He would suggest restaurants and book us in for dinner. He would make sure the restaurant split the bills for each family so there was no awkwardness. He knew

when to leave to catch the sunrise and how to avoid the tourists. In essence he took my holiday-parenting job away and let me immerse myself in the culture and be present in the moment. And at 14, Ivor was old enough to take on the responsibility of looking after himself too. It was liberating.

David and I shared a room with Ivor, and we watched his confidence grow. He relaxed enough to ask Bhanu questions, and we got a glimpse of the world through his eyes. I knew he would have enjoyed one of his brothers sharing his experience, but it was a privilege to share the time just with him.

My favourite moments of our trip? A trip to a bird sanctuary where I saw a tree laden with painted storks, pink birds with yellow beaks, it was mesmerising and magical and will be a sight that stays with me, quite extraordinary. Our Taj Mahal visit was special thanks to Bhanu, who knew how to get us there to catch the sun rising without the crowds. A brilliant and quite unexpected evening at a Bollywood cinema. And an exhilarating rickshaw tour of a market town during Diwali, through crowded alleyways, breath-taking, chaotic, bizarre and a real eye opener.

I’m certain that Ivor’s highlight was the cricket match we watched in Delhi. That was definitely a case of making memories! But the whole trip gave him confidence. India is so different from anywhere else – now anything is possible!

Five things to know about

Explore Family Adventures

1

Plan around school holidays October half term in Egypt, Costa Rica for Christmas? You can book your trip to start when your kids are on a school break.

2

Places are family-friendly Kids need space to play or switch off, so accommodation is usually two nights in each place, always comfortable and often with a pool. Occasionally there’ll be somewhere extra special thrown in too – think houseboats, tree huts, tents under the stars and a castle with a view…

3

There’s down-time

There is always free time built into the trips and options to skip activities to do your own thing. Tour leaders will have recommendations, from hiring bikes to family-friendly beaches.

4

It’s the best kind of learning An Explore adventure will teach the whole family so much about the planet, culture and history without feeling like school.

5

Once-in-a-lifetime moments? Guaranteed. Safari trips, iconic buildings, horse riding on the beach – family adventures certainly deliver on making memories.

“Seeing India through Ivor’s eyes was a privilege. Watching him take responsibility, ask questions. He was a good traveller.”

because

Family India Golden Triangle Adventure explore.co.uk/FMG

Hannah Methven

Meet Explore’s Sustainability Manager. Hannah brings her love of travel and the planet together, as she finds more ways to make sustainability a normal part of how things are done at Explore.

What does a morning look like in Hannah’s world?

My day starts in different ways, depending on the weather. I try to cycle into work as long as the rain holds out. Whichever way I get to the office, a double flat white en route is non-negotiable!

What does your role look like? Do you work by yourself a lot or do you work with lots of people?

For a number of years, I was one of Explore’s Product Managers and I loved it! I spent my days designing tours from scratch and improving our existing tours to help them run smoothly. It meant getting out to the destinations, being curious and uncovering the very best places, people and experiences to include in our trips.

Now I’ve moved to a role that’s all about helping to protect those experiences for the next generations. It’s rewarding in a different way, and it’s another opportunity to learn so much all the time.

I work with my product team colleagues to help protect the destinations we visit through carbon reduction. But, we can’t remove all emissions from our trips, so we’re mitigating them with nature-led solutions that have real

science behind them. We work with Rewilding Britain who have been restoring land for beavers and you can now see drone footage of the newly lush ecosystems that are changing our landscapes.

I also have regular catch-ups with Cool Earth, who support Indigenous communities in Peru, and Ecologi, aiming to to reduce 50% of global CO2 emissions by 2040 and plant a billion trees. We’re working with these organisations to help protect and preserve the environment, so hearing about the differences they make around the world never stops being interesting and, more importantly, inspiring.

What’s your biggest focus right now?

A huge project for the whole company recently has been calculating the carbon footprint of each and every one of our trips. To do this accurately we worked with our partner, ecollective, looking at everything from accommodation to activities. You can now see a carbon icon on every trip in our brochures and website. We’ve joined the Glasgow Declaration and committed to halving our carbon emissions by 2030, and so my next focus is reducing our impact where we can.

From my role as a Product Manager, I know where the potential for waste can occur and the different ways that we can tweak trips to reduce their CO2 emissions and make them more connected to communities. It could be switching out a private bus with public transport. It could be selecting a family-run eco stay. Or in places where this isn’t possible, it could be visiting a café set up by local students.

What are small wins that you cherish?

For me, travel is all about exchanging different lifestyles. Getting out there and meeting people was a part of my previous role that I loved, and I get a buzz when a colleague says they’ve found a way to connect our customers with another community or family. I’m also excited about our UK walking and cycling trips. Some of our customers say they’re keen to travel closer to home and save their emissions for their dream destinations, and it’s great that we can offer options for this.

And in my own day-to-day life, I feel it’s all going well when I can squeeze in a yoga class at work and eat a dosa from the South Indian restaurant across the road – my favourite!

“For me, travel is all about exchanging different lifestyles.”

Slow travel is becoming one of the most popular ways to see the world, especially in the post-pandemic era. In the first of a regular series, Michael Edwards, Managing Director of Explore Worldwide, explains why he is all for life in the slow lane.

One fifth of global CO2 emissions come from transport. For the travel industry, this is an alarming figure. Transport plays a vital role in enabling us to experience different places. Without transport, how can we see the world we’re all taking steps to preserve? Enter slow travel. This is a different way to explore, which involves swapping fast transport and quick ‘checklist’ tours for slower, more sustainable options. And it rewards you with a whole lot more than just picture postcard moments (though there’ll be plenty of those).

If you go back to the first golden age of tourism, people would embark on a Grand Tour, spending three to six months in a country and really getting to know it. Then in the 1970s, there was inter-railing and hitch hiking -everyone had a Lonely Planet open! Some of the best memories we hold onto are of the journey itself; the people, places, and food you encounter along the way (no one ever shows you a photo of the inside of the plane). Getting back to that feeling of joy and wonder is so important.

A deeper understanding

Slow travel immerses us in real places and real lives. It makes exploration a richer experience. I’ve always enjoyed a slower pace of travel, and travelling by train in particular. Recently I flew into Milan and headed to

Trieste by train, which is a beautiful journey. When you visit a train station – not just in Italy, but anywhere - it’s often right in the heart of a destination, unlike an airport where you’re flown into an artificial environment, usually miles away, that’s barely distinguishable from any other. From Trieste, we headed to Venice. I maintain that the best way of arriving in Venice, one of the most fabulous cities in the world, is by train. As you approach, the train travels over the lagoon and you walk out of San Lucia train station right on to the Grand Canal. It’s a real pinch-yourself travel moment.

Travelling by train, you get to see – really see –the towns and cities you’re passing through, sitting with local people who are going about their business. Travelling with them allows you to become immersed in their day-to-day life, offering a different level of understanding of a place and the people that make it. Travelling through India by train is another experience that enriches the trip. Sure, you can fly between Delhi and Jaipur, but why not take an overnight train? It’s typical of how people there would travel themselves. You won’t get a feel of true India by flying between those places, but passing through the landscapes, seeing people get on and off at stations, meeting the Chaiwallah who travels the length of the train serving up delicious, sweet tea – it’s is a vivid and visceral thing.

Good for the planet, good for you

Our lives these days are frenetic and fast-paced. When we’re on holiday, our minds and bodies yearn to slow down. Travelling with a small group means everything is organised for you. You don’t need to rush around the station, working out the next departure to your next destination, checking the platform, hauling your bag around – the route is planned, the timings organised, the tickets booked. So, your heart rate is slow as well as your feet! Just step on board, aim for a seat by the window and relax.

The future of travel

Slow travel is on the rise. In 2022 walking holidays in Europe were up 55% on 2019, and this growth shows no sign of abating. Active holidays are one way to travel more slowly, but this uplift in interest shows a clear change in attitude about how we want to see the world. It’s a trend that Explore is taking steps to nurture. Our trips are slower and more immersive by nature, always staying and eating locally where possible, and we’re adapting tours and creating new ones that slow down and embrace the local. We’re trying to incorporate rail journeys into our trips, whether between cities instead of flying (like in Laos, where we’ve just changed domestic flights for the train between Vientiane and Vang Vieng, and then on to Luang Prabang) or as a way to get to your holiday in the first place, like our London2 collection which enables you to cross Europe by train. I’m excited to see what’s next.’

“Travelling by train, you get to see –really see – the towns and cities you’re passing through, sitting with local people who are going about their business.”

THE

Our tour leaders are more than just your typical guide. They share first-hand knowledge and unique insight so you experience new cultures, discover authentic experiences and, most importantly, find those special memories that last forever.

Meet Your Leaders

Steinunn Guðbjörnsdóttir Iceland

What’s the best thing about being a tour leader?

My favourite thing about being a leader is meeting new people, those who’ve chosen to take time out to visit Iceland. It’s in my hands to make them feel comfortable so that they enjoy their time here. Honestly, Iceland sells itself; it is so beautiful with great diversity in the landscape. Waterfalls, glaciers, Northern Lights, winding countryside, beautiful mountain views, bathing in the nature and that special light, both in summer and winter. It is a privilege to live in Iceland and to be able to share that with our guests.

What are the most special Icelandic experiences that you love sharing with travellers?

As I lead so many trips in South Iceland, I have to say the Sólheimajökull Glacier is a favourite. It’s not written in the itinerary so it’s something extra, when the weather is on our side! Many visitors have never seen a glacier before and it’s always special. I usually take along Icelandic food and drink too, to give a taste of the country. Our local drink is ‘black death schnapps’, which is 40% alcohol and tastes of carraway seed. It depends on the weather and the season we’re travelling in, but I also like to bring hot chocolate with Icelandic rum, flatbread with smoked lamb or Icelandic

Lava Chocolate. If we have time, I love to show guests my horses too; Icelandic horses are a very special breed with five gaits. Tell us about a real wow moment on the trips you lead?

The Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon with floating icebergs is always a wow moment! With the towering ice cap of Vatnajökull, the biggest glacier in Europe, we have the deepest lake in Iceland (300m) which is getting bigger every year because of glaciers retreating due to climate change. The lake is full of floating icebergs from the glacier which makes it very special. You can also spot seals laying on the icebergs and many type of birds. We can take a boat tour on the lake and cruise around the icebergs before heading over the road to the Diamond Beach, where ice chunks are laying on the sand.

Find out more about our tours to Iceland at explore.co.uk/Iceland

David Lam Japan

What do you enjoy most about leading small group trips?

Getting to meet new visitors travelling from all over the world who are eager, excited, curious, adventurous and enthusiastic to learn about a new culture, and explore the unknown. There is something magical in the air when travelling with a group of like-minded individuals as a tour leader - suddenly everyone becomes extra upbeat and jolly when walking through an unfamiliar world together.

What’s your favourite place to share with Explore groups?

On one of the optional tour days on the Simply Japan itinerary, I try to offer an optional full day excursion to Shirakawa-go village, a UNESCO World Heritage Site set in the mountains of Gifu region. Travelling here is akin to going back in time to the much simpler days, living the minimalist and basic lifestyle in a traditional Japanese farming village, constantly surrounded by an incredibly scenic landscape, completely devoid of technological and materialistic distractions. I love sharing the Shirakawa-go village experience with all of my guests, many of whom come to Japan expecting glamorous neon lights and bustling metropolitan vibes everywhere. Then, suddenly, here’s a completely different version of the country – it’s a delightful surprise. It’s on my personal list of all-time favourite places in Japan, after having visited all 47 prefectures of Japan over the course of five years.

What Japanese location most surprises visitors to your country?

Hiroshima is perhaps one of the places that most often surprises visitors coming to Japan for the first time. Most people have learnt about it through history textbooks, knowing its dark past as the epicentre of the first atomic bombing in human history during World War II. Before arriving in Hiroshima, there’s often a slight sense of trepidation amongst newcomers, not fully knowing what to expect. Yet when we finally arrive in the modern day Hiroshima, guests are often shocked at how beautiful the city has evolved to be, while still fully acknowledging its harrowing past. The contrasting difference is certainly inspirational, as the city has fully healed and it is now taking the lead in campaigning for world peace, adopting an ambassador role for a better world free of nuclear weapons in the future.

You’ll find all our tours to Japan at explore.co.uk/Japan

“There is something magical in the air when travelling with a group of like-minded individuals as a Tour Leader - suddenly everyone becomes extra upbeat and jolly”

Clean, comfortable and close to the action – all vital. But sometimes where you stay can be a whole lot more. These extraordinary accommodations are an experience in their own right.

A Night to Remember

JORDAN

SLEEP UNDER THE STARS

There’s no better way to experience the vast glittering desert skies of Jordan than sleeping beneath them. Spend a night in a Bedouin camp deep in a Wadi in Jordan to experience this life first-hand. From the goat hair tent with mattresses and blankets to the delicious meal cooked below ground in a clay pot, and the communal fire pit crackling in the centre. Once the sun fully dips below the horizon, camp around the dying fire and admire the Milky Way.

JAPAN SLEEP IN A FAMILY RUN MINSHUKU

When in Japan, sleep as Japanese people do, on tatami mats and futon beds that are rolled away during the day – and surprisingly comfortable!

KERALA SLEEP ON A HOUSEBOAT

Meander through the waterways of Kerala while staying on a traditional houseboat. Experience riverside village life and eat delicious locally prepared Keralan dishes onboard.

MOROCCO SLEEP IN A TRADITIONAL RIAD

The moment you step through a traditional Moroccan riad’s ornate doors, you enter an oasis of beauty, tranquillity and artisanal artistry.

Over to you...

Just another day in paradise

‘No problem was too big for you, you solved them with a smile. We’ll never forget your kindness as you went the extra mile.

Thank you for the memories you created, by sharing with us your nation. We’ll all now treasure and keep them, and remember with deep admiration What a glorious country Costa Rica is, its people, animals, plants (even the beans and rice!).

Thank you for two heavenly weeks when every day was ‘just another day in paradise’.’

Taken from a poem of thanks written by Marion for her tour leader Joan Carlos, who guided her Costa Rica tour.

Cycling the Dalmatian Coast

‘Life altering? Hopeful? Inspiring? All these phrases and so much more. Yes, a great deal of the trip’s satisfaction was the beautiful coastline of Croatia and the Adriatic swimming, but the ambience, spirit and soul saving aspects came from the group cycling. The leader, and the nucleus of the life altering part of this trip, was David Jovanović, our guide. Thank you Explore and David for one of the greatest experiences of my life. It gave me back perspective and hope, for which I am humbly grateful.’

Taken from Colleen talking about her Cycle the Dalmatian Coast tour experience.

29 Trips & Counting

Share your travel stories...

If you’ve travelled with Explore and have a story you would like to share, we would love to hear from you!

Send us your story on mystory@explore.co.uk

Picture This

‘Just home from Best of American West. What a fabulous nine days. The additional trips are an absolute must! Monument Valley and Antelope Canyon, wow, you must see to believe. Some great memories and nearly 800 photos to remind me. A few of my favourites: Sunrise at Bryce Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, Monument Valley and Antelope Canyon.’

Jayne on her ‘Best of American West’ experience. The photographs above were just two of the hundreds she took on her trip.

‘My husband and I have been on 29 amazing adventures around the world with you since our first in 2005. Every trip is memorable. We’ve had our breath taken away by wildlife on safaris, the crowds in incredible India, the fabulous views in New Zealand, the mighty Grand Canyon, the lights in Las Vegas and the beautiful undersea world in the Maldives. And we had our breath literally taken away in the thin air of Bolivia and Peru!’

Taken from a letter by Jean and Neil from the Lake District. They have been travelling with Explore for nearly 20 years!

We know our trips are special, but don’t just take our word for it. Explore adventurers are our best ambassadors.

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