ROAM

From sleepy hilltop villages to iconic coastal walks, the Amalfi Coast has a global reputation for its splendour. Solo traveller Paula Hugus shares how she found unforgettable beauty, even in the little, unassuming moments.

One of the world’s greatest coastal pathways, the Walk of the Gods offers heart-filling views of azure blue waters from crumbling clifftops, abandoned stone farmhouses and pretty, flower-filled trails. On Explore’s Amalfi Coast Walking trip, it’s perhaps this walk that sticks most in the mind of travellers, the climax of a week of wanders in one of the most spectacular regions of Italy. Taking a step off the very well-worn historic path, first time Explore traveller Paula found that even a small stumble could make for a precious memory.

“Vegetation lined the trail, plants that I hadn’t realised were wild herbs until I stepped off the path. As I did, wild mint and oregano were crushed underfoot, filling the air with perfume. It really enhanced what was already a fabulous walk. Wild poppies lined the way and there were cacti growing on the side of rocks. Life was all around us, offering one fantastic view after another.”

Paula had made the decision to travel from her native United States to Italy after watching videos online of the scenery and laid-back lifestyle enjoyed by those who call pretty, pastel-coloured towns like Positano their home. She said: “I was absolutely enchanted by what I’d seen of the Amalfi Coast and I decided that I wanted to go and experience it for myself but I didn’t want to just hire a car and travel alone. It felt too complicated to plan. And so I got to researching, feeling it would be best to link in with a group. Explore had great reviews from other travellers and the itinerary looked ideal. So while I hadn’t been on a group walking trip before, I decided to sign up.”

Paula says, that while she’s not an expert hiker, the ‘Leisurely and Moderate’ walking grade on this adventure gave her some confidence that it would be a good first group holiday. “I bought hiking boots and undertook an exercise programme at home to ensure I was fit enough for the walks,” she said. “I prepared by walking through my neighbourhood at home which was helpful as it would turn out that there would be some challenging walks ahead.”

While adventures of this kind might be new for Paula, she has become accustomed to solo travel over the years.

“I was a flight attendant for 15 years and have seen the world by myself, mostly spending a lot of time in Asia and South America. I’ve been to the world’s big cities but as I’ve gotten older, I’m more attracted to those smaller walking trips.”

In total, there were 12 other adventurers in Paula’s group, ranging in age between 38 and 86. Most were solo travellers too, though they were also joined by two married couples, all from different backgrounds. “It was the nicest group of people,” said Paula. “Some of us were retired but there were nurses, teachers and more. It was such a good mix, like-minded people with interesting stories to tell. It was ideal.”

Many members of the group were experienced travellers and their experiences of seeing the world meant they had plenty to talk about during relaxed evenings, sharing dinner in the family-run agriturismo where they were staying. That said, Paula got to enjoy the solitude of solo travel in the way she’d hoped.

“I anticipated what my needs were and made sure they could be accommodated before I signed up,” she said. “I wanted a single room because I wasn’t keen to share with someone and I needed the opportunity to do my own thing. I wanted to opt out of some of the activities too and this group made that so easy. On one evening, a few members of the group were going to a restaurant down the street for dinner and I didn’t want to go as

Unusual places to visit as a solo traveller

1. Uzbekistan

This up-and-coming destination is perfect for solo travellers looking for something different. Explore the fascinating Silk Road cities with their dazzlingly colourful palaces and madrasahs.

2. Bhutan

Combine watching vibrant festival dances with breathtaking hikes along ridgelines, past dzongs and monasteries (including the fabled Taktsang ‘Tiger’s Nest’).

3. Colombia

If you’re searching for variety, look no further than Colombia. It enables you to take in the seaside, lush greenery and modern city life all in one trip. And that’s without even mentioning the food!

4. Benin

A little-visited destination full of unique hidden gems. The people and their mesmerising voodoo practices are what make Benin so utterly fascinating. Don’t miss out!

Do you want some more ideas? Have a look at exploreworldwide.com.au/ unusual-solo

I was just so tired! So instead, I walked to the local market and bought a box of strawberries and some cheese with crackers and sat on the terrace in my room, looking out at the view, smelling the fresh air. I enjoyed that so much. We were all very independent and so no one minded it at all or expected me to join them. Other times, we’d sit out on the patio, drink a glass of wine together and chit-chat. I couldn’t have asked for anything better. In fact, we have all stayed in touch, and most of the group have got together again for more walks.”

Even when they weren’t on the hiking trails, the group were sampling the best of the region. In the agriturismo, a traditional farmhouse, they were refuelling on the freshest produce available, grown and farmed right there on the family’s land. Paula said: “The agriturismo was run by a very congenial family,” she said. “They live in various houses dotted around the property and work out in the garden, raising their own chickens, cows and growing their own vegetables. It was just what I wanted, a more rural experience. They prepare all of the food themselves and we ate family-style at two big long tables. They even make their own wine. Our rooms were clean and comfortable, nothing overly fancy, but with lovely views. I was lucky that from my room I could see the sea in the distance, despite being up in the mountains. It was the best of both worlds.” While this home-away-from-home offered relaxation and comfort, it’s the trails on the Amalfi Coast trip that had lured the group to the area. Their guide knew the area inside out, taking them on a well-planned mix of relaxed rambles and more challenging climbs; along the Ancient Republic’s Path towards the coast from the farm, through iconic Capri, decorated with bougainvillea, and the ancient limestone stairway above San Lazzaro. The pretty woodlands and valleys that lead towards the Vallone delle Ferriere are perhaps second only to the trip’s final, show-stopping walk. Paula said: “Our guide was a fabulous leader, so personable and very experienced in hiking and mountain climbing. He knew all there was to know about the area and he was so prepared, carrying extra water in case we needed any and a first aid kit to help with sore feet! He knew the best places to eat and the most picturesque spots to stop and soak it all in. The scenery is just stupendous. It never disappoints, there’s something new and jaw-dropping around every curve.”

The best trail of them all, for Paula, was the Walk of the Gods, which the group traversed on the very last day of their adventure. It was a fitting way to connect on a deeper level with a region so revered for its beauty.

“The trail has a reputation for being one of the most spectacular walks in the world and for good reason,” says Paula. “You start high in the mountains, winding your way down through forests, under huge limestone cliffs and around a bend that opens out into a field with abandoned farmhouses. It really sparked my imagination to how life must have been like there a hundred years ago, what it would be like to live there, raising goats and making your own wine. Now they’re in ruins, but it paints such a clear picture in your mind.

When you arrive in pretty Nocelle, it’s time to begin your final descent down stone steps and into the colourful seaside village of Positano, past flower gardens and into the town where we had the rest of our final day to explore. Historically, the only income for people in that area was raising goats or growing olives and the only way to get around was those old stairs. I felt like I was walking back in time, there’s such an atmosphere. It was eye-opening to follow in the footsteps of those who would have travelled between the beautiful towns of the Amalfi Coast on these well-trodden pathways.”

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