A Trio of Tastemakers

DINING A Trio of Tastemakers

Three top Gwinnett chefs dish on fine cuisine—and their favorite late-night snacks

BY LISA MOWRY

Thuan Nguyen, Noble Fin

Since Nguyen grew up in Louisiana, he’s proud to incorporate Creole/ Cajun spices and ingredients into Noble Fin’s menu, with an emphasis on fresh seafood and steaks. “Back home we had a huge Asian community and I learned to combine all of them (Asian/Creole/Cajun) into my cooking style. I would have to say our gulf grouper at Noble Fin is the best example of this, because it has fresh vegetables with blackened spices along with fresh grouper that I ate quite a bit growing up," he says.

Another seafood dish that has guests buzzing is the halibut entree, pan-roasted fish served alongside sauteed baby bok choy, locally sourced shiitakes, and jasmine rice, and finished with a clarified lobster broth. The lobster tail appetizer is another favorite, a tasty portion of buttermilk-dipped lobster deep fried until crispy and served on a cabbage salad dressed with a ginger vinaigrette. Nguyen is proud that some of the restaurant's regulars come in twice a week for these sorts of delicacies.

When Nguyen's able to dine elsewhere in Gwinnett County, you might find him at 9292 Korean BBQ with its all-you-can-eat meats, or satisfying his noodle craving. “My guilty pleasure is often noodles, be it ramen, pho, or bun (rice vermicelli),” he says. “If it’s not too late, my favorite place is Kumai Ramen, inside the Jusgo Supermarket food court. Their spicy tonkotsu ramen is one of the best in Atlanta.

*Note: As of press time, Chef Nguyen is no longer with Noble Fin.

Noble Fin

Rui Liu, Masterpiece

Chef Rui Liu’s mission is to adapt the dishes from his native China for both Asians and Americans. “I don’t want to lose the authenticity,” he says. “The Asian grocery stores close by are helpful for ingredients I grew up with. I then make sure dishes are not too sweet or too spicy.”

Masterpiece, a Cantonese restaurant in Duluth where Liu is chef and owner, prides itself on a healthy version of Chinese cuisine, using less oil and sugar. One of his popular dishes is eggplant with chili powder and pepper ash powder, with just the right amount of heat. His menu has an extensive amount of offerings, both exotic and expected, ranging from stir-fried mutton and Hunan-style ox tripe to the more familiar shrimp with garlic sauce.

When he’s off-duty, you’ll find Liu exploring American-style cuisine as a cultural mission. “I’m not able to eat at other restaurants as much as I’d like,” he says. “But I enjoy trying places like Gunshow in Atlanta, or local steakhouses.”

Alex Kim, Local Republic

Chef Alex Kim, who heads up all things food-related at the Lawrenceville gastropub Local Republic, draws inspiration from the multicultural vibe in Gwinnett County. “There is such cultural diversity in our area to explore, and it’s great to be able to change the menu and specials to represent that,” he says. “I’m able to reflect my travels and time spent living abroad, making connections between a lot of different cultures of food—ranging from French to Creole, Southern, American, and Asian cuisines.”

Kim's proud of a new menu update with a larger focus on handcrafted recipes with locally sourced ingredients. His Thursday night ramen specials usually blend Asian and Southern elements for a unique, chef-driven experience. Other cultureblending menu items include Southern-style Spanish croquettes, Japanese tuna tartare, and ItalianSpanish chorizo meatballs.

When Kim is off work, he doesn’t have to go far to find an after-hours snack. “Our sister restaurant, Strange Taco Bar, is just a few doors down, and has great late-night taco specials on Friday and Saturday nights,” he says. “I grab a frozen cocktail and a handful of $2 tacos and relax after a hard day’s work.”