JUNE 2012 Photograph by Warren Buckle Model: Renee McDonald Make up by Kimberley Patterson
Editor's Note 9 Downtown Kingston
The epicentre of Jamaica’s popular culture
Scene
3 Scenes from Downtown Kingston
Beauty
4 Get groomed street-side
Fashion
6 Shop Downtown and your wallet will thank you
Jamaica 50 Celebration
Food
15 Experience Coronation Market 16 Moby Dick: Downtown’s curry haven
Art
17 Rocktowa: Using Downtown Kingston to inspire artists
News & Culture 20 On The Pulse:
Jamaica is celebrating its 50th year of independence this August and in some way or another, many organisations are doing their part to mark this great milestone. When working on the theme for this issue, the team was looking at all the things that contributed to making Jamaica what it is today and Downtown Kingston was one of the places that stood out for us. With its glory days long gone, all that’s left is the image of what it used to be, but we were encouraged by the prospects of what it can still become. What many people don’t realise is that Downtown Kingston is an untapped resource – it holds so much of Jamaica’s history and has the potential to hold so much of it’s future as well. My intention for this issue is to highlight some of the great things that still exist there and encourage people to explore, because the revitalisation cannot be put on the shoulders of businesses alone. So, let’s celebrate Jamaica in this her big year and use it as an opportunity to learn about us as a people, our country and the possibilities of so much more.
13 Miss Jamaica World honours sixteen past winners 2
Scene
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Scenes from Downtown
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Beauty
Get groomed street-side Downtown Kingston is known for a lot of things – great shopping deals for clothing and accessories, the freshest produce and home goods at a fraction of the price in other areas. But eyebrow threading? It’s probably one of the last things that you expect to see on Princess Street, but right at the entrance of Baby & Me, you will find Sheldon (also known as Mario) offering passers-by his facial grooming threading services. He proudly boasts that he practices Muslim facial grooming threading, a skill he picked up while living in Birmingham, England. For $300 (less than half the going rate for threading in uptown), he will shape up your eyebrows or remove any unwanted facial hair right there on the side of the street in his makeshift ‘salon’. So if you are out exploring all that Downtown Kingston has to offer, then let your adventurous spirit take over and experience some street-side grooming courtesy of Sheldon. He assured us that he “will set you up the right way.”
Sheldon demonstrating his threading technique
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Fashion
Shop Downtown and your wallet will thank you If you decide to go shopping in Downtown Kingston, then you are sure to have an ‘experience’. The roads are always busy with crowds of people going on about their daily routine, pushcart vendors barrelling down the streets, risking the health of your ankles if you’re not careful and the ever-present taxi drivers who stop wherever they want, in hopes of coaxing new passengers and expelling those inside their cars.
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However, in the midst of all the craziness on Princess, Orange and Church Streets, there are some great deals to be found. With a seemingly endless choice of stores, street vendors and sometimes multipurpose establishments (think washing machines, blue soap, school supplies and clothing all in one place), there are some great items being offered at very affordable prices. See some of the great finds that we encountered wandering the streets of Downtown.
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Shoes and accessories
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1. Tan studded wedges, $7,500, Images shoe store, Orange Street 2. Blue ballet flats, $4,495, Images Shoes Store, Orange Street 3. Red patent leather shoulder bag, $4,500, Fashinique Ltd, Kings Street
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4. Brown shoulder bag with gold hardware, $5,000, Fashinique Ltd, Kings Street www.ezineslimited.com
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Clothing 1. Hot pink mini dress with neon green belt, $4,495, Images, Orange Street
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2. Printed romper with brown woven belt, $3,500, Fashinique Ltd, Kings Street
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3. White mini dress with jewelled detail, $1,500, Scuba D Fashions, Princess Street 4. Blue jumper, $1,600, B&P Fashion, Harbour Street 5. Green maxi dress, $4,495, Images, Orange Street
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Culture
Downtown Kingston:
The epicentre of Jamaica’s popular culture By Tameka Coley Photograph by Warren Buckle
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t is impossible to deny that Downtown Kingston has always been the cradle of Jamaican culture, as most of our popular music, drama and dance (with the exception of African traditional folk forms brought here by slaves) originated there. Being the country’s capital, there has always been a lot of activity in Kingston and everyone had reason to frequent this area. It is only natural, therefore, that much of the entertainment options originated here and it accounts for the birth of many facets of our culture, which are now globally identifiable with ‘brand Jamaica’.
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Culture
The Ward Theatre
Pantomime
Much of our cultural development started when the prestigious Ward Theatre opened in 1912. Downtown was booming and people would flock the venue to watch the Pantomime, visiting Broadway actors and concerts. By the 1920s, it was one of the most famous and influential theatres in the Caribbean. Broadway plays travelled to Jamaica for a chance to be billed as ‘fresh from a triumphant run in Kingston, Jamaica’ upon their return to New York and the actors referred to themselves as ‘late of the Jamaican theatre’. The Ward enjoyed its heyday well into the 20th century, until the building and surrounding neighbourhood fell into a decline, which discouraged attendance. A wealth of local greats – Charles Hyatt, Ranny Williams, Louise Bennett, Leonie Forbes and Oliver Samuels, also found fame on the Ward Theatre stage, which opened the door for a performance-type culture downtown which was further explored, albeit informally, through other art forms. In the 1930s, dance events grew popular after a few gatherings held at Marcus Garvey’s Edelweiss Park on Slipe Road gained traction with people in and around the area. This paved the way for the rise of the sound system and created opportunities for performance artistes to showcase their talents to a live audience with instant feedback and gratification. From this time into the 40s and www.ezineslimited.com
The late Rex Nettleford
50s, Jamaicans were exposed to American popular music – the likes of BB King, Sam Cooke, Fats Domino and Stevie Wonder – by way of records imported into the island. Dance ‘sessions’ soon became widespread and more competitive, so organisers now sought unique, exclusive recordings to attract larger crowds, build their repertoire, and set them apart from their contenders. They would set up their mobile sound systems in popular spots or ‘lawns’, such as Chocomo Lawn in Denham Town, where ‘dances’ were held on Sunday nights and would turn up the volume to drown out their competitors. By the late 50s and early 60s, ‘dance hall’ promoters such as Duke Reid and Clement ‘Coxsone’ Dodd were creating their own rhythms to give them an advantage. The fierce competition between them sparked a rapid growth in the music industry. At this time, however, there were no real recording facilities, so trendy American records - jazz or rhythm and blues - were played, but sound systems were soon unable to get a hold of the new releases quickly enough for their competing purposes due to licensing issues. In 1958, Lebanese-Jamaican Edward Seaga saw a need and capitalised on it by founding West Indian Records Limited (WIRL) to begin releasing records – blatant covers of popular American music – by local artistes. Your Style eZine 10
Culture
The late Bob Marley
The late Louise Bennett-Coverley
Jamaican producer Chris Blackwell jumped on this concept, tweaking the R&B songs, combining them with the more youthful be-bop, rhythm and blues and rock ‘n’ roll music which dominated airwaves overseas, to produce Millie Small’s global sensation My Boy Lollipop. This led to a series of hits and the birth of a new genre called Ska, arguably by Cecil ‘Prince Buster’ Campbell, who started his own label and combined traditional mento music with the borrowed R&B to create a new sound. Ska boomed downtown, but was not accepted by the local elite in ‘uptown’ areas. This would change in 1960 when Byron Lee, an uptown musician, visited a session and was exposed to Ska, which he then transported to his locale. The nation accepted it shortly thereafter. With the constant battle between Dodd and Reid, they later created their own record labels and a pressing plant was set up on the island, so masters no longer had to be shipped to the USA – local music quickly began to find its own identity. There was also a greater change happening in Jamaica. With our newfound independence from England in 1962, national pride peaked significantly and this was reflected in the music. Ska acts like The Skatalites, The Maytals and The Wailers came about, and the genre fast became synonymous with Jamaica. Then the ‘rude boy’ phenomenon came about: men with sharp looks and fashionable clothes who were ‘too cool’ for the fastpaced Ska dance moves and the music was slowed down, evolving into Rock Steady, which had more rhythm guitar, more bass and less horn. Artistes like Desmond Dekker, Eric Morris and Alton Ellis took it to new heights, but the name didn’t quite connect with Jamaicans. After The Maytals single Do The Reggae was released in 1968, the word reggae caught on like wildfire downtown. New producers like Osbourne ‘King Tubby’ Ruddock, Bunny Lee and Lee ‘Scratch’ Perry catapulted to fame and Perry, the most successful of the crop, wooed The Wailers to become their new producer, helping them develop their distincwww.ezineslimited.com
Late popular dancer Gerald ‘Bogle’ Levy
tive sound which would bring them, especially lead singer Bob Marley, international acclaim. Meanwhile, King Tubby also got busy, branching out from this sound with a variation of ‘reggae toasting’, taking jabs at other artistes or sound system selectors, with his new artiste Ewart ‘U Roy’ Beckford. Tubby discovered that acetates (dub plates) could be manipulated so that the vocals could be left off the tracks and the hit single Wake The Town was born. It shot to the top of the charts and others like Big Youth followed suit. With the rapid migration patterns in the 70s, it was taken to New York where it evolved into rap music and, in Jamaica, continued to develop into dancehall. This type of music, with its raw sound and heavy, dance-inspiring beats, made rhyming and lyricism come even easier to the artistes and provided an opportunity for poorer, dispossessed Jamaicans to express themselves. Many artistes from ‘ghetto’ communities found fame through this medium and today, deejays like Beenie Man, Bounty Killa, Sean Paul and Shaggy have achieved global star status. Dancehall music also brought dancers into the spotlight, with the most noteworthy being the late Bogle, who created many dance moves such as the Bogle, Butterfly, Log On and Row Like A boat. He found fame after appearing in the collaborative videos of hip-hop and dancehall artistes and on overseas TV networks such as BET, MTV and TEMPO. Soon dance events like Passa Passa in Tivoli Gardens emerged and became world-renowned and the dancehall space became a huge part of Jamaican culture. Dancehall music has since continued to flourish and so too have many other aspects of our popular culture, most of which either originated from or blossomed in downtown Kingston. It’s no surprise, then, that downtown is considered to be at the heart of our cultural development.
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Jamaica 50 Celebration
Miss Jamaica World honours
sixteen past winners
In celebrating Jamaica’s 50th year of independence, the Miss Jamaica World organisation is celebrating the success the MJW pageant has had over the years. These 15 women have performed outstandingly since taking the crown and will serve as role models to future winners.
Cindy Breakspeare 1976
Sandra Kong 1977
Debbie Campbell 1979
Cathy Levy 1983
Allison Barnett 1985
Sandra Cunningham 1987
Erica Aquart 1990
Sandra Foster 1991
Lisa Hanna 1993
Christine Straw 1998
Jade Fulford 2003 www.ezineslimited.com
Terri-Karelle Reid 2005
Sara Lawrence 2006
Yendi Phillips 2007 Your Style eZine
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We caught up with two past winners to discuss life after winning the Miss Jamaica title.
SENATOR IMANI DUNCAN-PRICE DR. TONOYA TOYLOY-WILLIAMS
Along with winning the title in 2004, Toyloy-Williams also won the Miss Jamaica World Scholarship, which allowed her to pursue her doctorate in Pharmacology at the University of Florida. “Without that jump start, I don’t know how long it would have taken me to get there,” she said. One of the highlights of her reign was being able to give back to charities and help persons who are less fortunate. With her doctorate under her belt, Toyloy-Williams took the next step and opened her own pharmacy. Since establishing the pharmacy, she has given health talks at various organisations, including high schools and churches. In her eyes, Jamaica has come a long way in terms of development. She believes that Jamaicans should hone their skills and talents to make the country a better place, noting that while a lot has already been accomplished, much more can still be done.
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Duncan-Price entered the competition in 1995 with the aim of becoming a voice for the issues that were important to her, such as violence, especially among children in schools. “The messenger is as important as the message,” she said. With the theme Beauty with a Purpose in mind, she entered the pageant hoping to make a difference in society through her contribution. Among her accomplishments since winning the pageant are studying at Harvard University and establishing Global Justice, a non-governmental organisation, which led to the largest student movement against the AIDS crisis in the United States. Also, as any proud mother would, Duncan-Price listed giving birth to her son as one of her greatest accomplishments. She believes that Jamaica has come a long way as a country, with more access to health care and education for citizens. For her, the focus should be on getting Jamaica to a stage where people can live the lives they choose, with access to the resources they desire.
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Food
by Kristina Kerr
Experience
Coronation Market
c
oronation Market is a Jamaican cultural landmark. Located on Pechon Street in downtown, it can be described as nothing less than a high traffic and energetic place. It has survived catastrophes over the years, with the most recent stemming from the Tivoli incursion in 2010, which resulted in a great portion of the market being destroyed by fire. But through the goodwill of companies such as the Digicel Foundation, ‘Curry’, as it is popularly known, is continuing to flourish, withstanding all other external factors. When you think of hustle and bustle in Kingston, nowhere would describe that more than Coronation Market. There are more than 100 vendors offering fresh ground provisions and an array of other products. The market has its own energy from the collective chatter of vendors and shoppers, the pushcarts barrelling through the narrow channels between the stalls and the music playing from different spots across the market. One of the biggest attractions to the market is that the prices are significantly lower than buying in you nearby supermarket or from street vendors. “People come from all over to shop here because the prices are better,” explained Diane Byfield, who has been selling in Coronation Market for over 20 years. People journey to the market from rural Jamaica, Spanish Town, Portmore and even ‘uptown’. This is a common story amongst the vendors as many of them have been selling in the market for 15 years or more, some taking over from older family members. A trip to Coronation should be something that every Jamaican experiences, even if it is just once. The benefit will be so much more than what you are saving – the goods are fresh, the customer service is better than most established places and it really is a great experience. www.ezineslimited.com
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Food
Moby Dick
Downtown’s curry haven
M
oby Dick in Downtown Kingston has been a major part of the community for as long as many Jamaicans can remember. However, if you ask older generations about the Moby Dick of their time, it may be a little different from the restaurant that currently resides at 3-5 Orange Street. The restaurant was opened in the early 1900s as a watering hole for the heavy pedestrian traffic that emanated from the busy port that was once the Kingston waterfront. It was the go-to bar for both sailors coming into the port and locals alike. But the Moby Dick of that time and its present day counterpart are totally different. What once was a bar and restaurant serving primarily pork dishes is now known for its curry. When Morlyn Mangaroo-McBean bought the restaurant in 1986, she decided to change the menu that had been offered for so long and offer what she knew, curry. You will taste the difference in the curry from Moby Dick as she prepares all the food herself and even makes her curry powder in house. The restaurant currently offers five variations of curry including goat, conch, fish, shrimp and chicken and soon plans to offer curried vegetables for those looking for vegetarian options. All of the dishes are served with homemade roti, rice and vegetables. “If you try to do anything else it never sells,” Mangaroo-McBean said of sticking to her staples. The effects of the declining economy have been somewhat evident over time, but the restaurant
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still has a loyal following. And with their prime location across from the home of the new Digicel headquarters, they will be sure to get substantial traffic from the 1,000 plus workers that will be moving in this summer. “It’s going to be good. Everywhere in the world the city is so important and what about us? I look forward to it,” she said. After 26 years of running the restaurant, Mangaroo-McBean is making sure that her two daughters, Calema and Cherida and son, Clinton, know the business inside out so they can take over the reigns. She credits the team effort from her family including her son-in-law, Devon Morris, for the business’ continued success. “I will eventually have to let go for them to try for themselves,” she admitted. Her constant presence in the restaurant has caused the entire staff to become totally reliant on her and they consistently look to her for answers, whether in the kitchen or otherwise. But she confessed that at some point, she will leave her family to figure out the ins and outs of the business on their own. “This is theirs and so I know in time they will get it,” she said. Until then, Mangaro-McBean is looking forward to serving more patrons who come to savour Moby Dick’s best-selling curry. This only proves that even though the restaurant has changed hands and menus over the last 90 years, it is still a gem in Downtown Kingston. Your Style eZine
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Art
ROKTOWA:
Using Downtown Kingston to inspire artists
O
n approaching the gate of the building that houses the ROKTOWA gallery, you will probably think you have made a mistake. Besides the sign promoting the ROKTOWA Café, there would be little to indicate that there is an art gallery in the old brewery building on Pechon Street in Downtown Kingston. ROKTOWA is a contemporary art project with a mission to “plant artists to create growth.” Australian artist Melinda Brown is the creative director and founder of the organisation. Downtown Kingston would seem to be an improbable choice for a project such as this, but Brown saw the rich culture that was present in the area and creative resources that could be made available to artists. Brown moved to Jamaica in 2005 from New York City, where she was running a similar organisation called Bombora House. She transformed a dilapidated 19th century meat market house into a ‘living sculpture’. The building served as her home and a museum
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of eclectic art by herself, colleagues and protégés who lived at Bombora House for some time. But her visit to Jamaica ignited something in her and she left downtown Manhattan to settle in a loft on Church Street, which she converted into a studio before moving to ROKTOWA’s present location on Pechon Street. The ROKTOWA concept is broken up into six ‘profit centres’ – eco-tours, iguana oasis, neutraceuticals, garden, media and objet d’art. The artists in the residency programmes have access to these unique local resources and are encouraged to use them in creating art for both the local and international markets. The space allows for creative freedom for all the artists taking part in the residency programme. They have currently taken in about 10 artists from the areas surrounding the gallery and also offer a residency programme for international participants. It is through this programme that they can venture outside of their usual mode of creating, by working with tradesmen from the area to create art from local resources. Your Style eZine
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Derval ‘Junior’ Johnson, one of the 10 artists from the area in the ROKTOWA programme, has seen success with his work. If you visit the ROKTOWA gallery now, you will find his signature wooden bird sculptures sitting on display. And as the manager Christopher Jones told us, “Junior has currently sold 10 of his birds on the international market.” Another notable local talent is Dion ‘Sand’ Palmer, whose paintings can be found hanging on the walls of the gallery. He has become know for his signature phoenix-like bird and was contracted to paint a mural on NEM Insurance’s headquarters in Downtown Kingston last year. The mural cannot go unmissed as the vibrant colours and sheer size of it brightens up the Peters Lane building. NEM was so happy with the mural that they commissioned Sand to create an additional bird mural on another of their buildings on the property. Overall, the programme has had great success with both local and overseas artists. “We have artists from all over: Asia, Haiti, England, Australia and USA,” said Jones. He went on to explain that the residencies run for as little as three weeks but www.ezineslimited.com
can continue for longer periods, from six weeks to a few months. The artists end their residencies with an exhibition, which allows them to showcase and sell pieces that were created during their time at ROKTOWA. He also mentioned that the organisation includes programmes for the youths in the area. The workshops are held in their project space for kids from surrounding communities that show interest in learning about art. They include two weekly sessions where they are instructed in mostly drawing and painting. The organisation was way ahead of the curve in the revitalisation of Downtown. Brown recognised the talent, environment and energy from her first visit to the area years ago and has used these factors to ensure that the resources are there for the people and environment to flourish. The ROKTOWA is testament to her belief in making something of the possibilities of which most are unaware.
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News & Culture
by Keresa Arnold
On the pulse RELAY FOR LIFE CELEBRATES 10 YEARS The Jamaica Cancer Society held its annual Relay for Life event on June 9. The event celebrates cancer survivors with individuals from all over Jamaica gathering at the Police Officer’s Club to walk in support of those affected by cancer. It includes a victory lap in honour of survivors as well as the lighting of candles in memory of those who have died.
AT THE MOVIES: FRIENDS WITH KIDS Friends with Kids stars Adam Scott, Jennifer Westfeldt and Jon Hamm, and looks at that stage in every friendship when everyone seems to be having children. It explores the dynamics amongst one set of friends and journeys with the last two singles in the group as, feeling out of sync, they decide to have a child together. AT THE THEATRE: GOD’S WAY REOPENS Coming off the success of last year’s showing, the award-winning show, written by Dahlia Harris, returns to the Pantry Playhouse and will run for two months beginning in June. The story highlights the importance of faith and the many ways in which it is tested.
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