Fab l'style issue 001 | iconic by Fab L'Style

I CO N I C ISSUE 01 / 2018

Icons - how do we define them? What makes a moment iconic? Icons are not born, icons are being made, under harder pressure than diamonds. What comes out as a perfect picture takes a lot of work behind the scenes. And the one reason what makes something iconic lies within its beautiful perfection. With FAB Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Style Issue 01, we are showing you our icons. From musicians over designers to artists, every person that you find in this issue is defined by its very own perfection. The stories we are telling are not only about the present time, but also about the path everyone took to get where they are now. These are stories as intimate and individual as one can imagine. The people behind these stories are making this magazine possible, they gave us the stories we are telling and the power that lies within each of their own work. This issue goes out to you, may you - at whatever stage you are, become an icon in your very own way and never forget where you have come from. On behalf of the entire FAB team, truthfully yours, Harriet Hala & Stefan Kokovic

Photography // Vanja Pandurevic

CONTENT. 10. MOTHER AFRICA 30. COMPOSITION #10 44. BLUE MONDAY 50. MATEYANEIRA 60. ALAMANDE BELFOR 68. JO WEIL 82. NURIEL MOLCHO

FAB L’Style Iconic Issue Harriet Hala // FAB L’Style KG Publisher // FAB L’Style KG, Vienna 1010, Austria Editors in Chief // Harriet Hala & Stefan Kokovic Creative Director // Stefan Kokovic Production Assistant // Jon-Eric Hegemann Editorial Team // Sandra Imiela, Tyra-Stina Wilhelmsson, Ana Vasiljevic, Ana Puga, Matteo Osso Stefan Kokovic, Jon-Eric Hegemann Photographers // Barbara Manisch, Stefan Kokovic HMUA // Melanie Zickl, Wacuka Thimba Stylists // Lucy Robi, Jon-Eric Hegemann Copy Editor // Marko Gilmore Graphic Design // Stefan Kokovic, Jovan Lakic Printing Office // Copy Planet, 7 Carice Milice, Belgrade 11000, Serbia

Thank you everyone who helped us create this magazine and being part of the FAB family #YouAreFab

For marketing inquiries please contact marketing@fablstyle.com For advertising inquiries please contact sales@fablstyle.com For any other inquiries please contact office@fablstyle.com

FAB L’Style KG | Stubenbastei 12/14A | 1010 Vienna | office@fablstyle.com 7

www.mihanomomosa.com

Photographer // Barbara Manisch Model // Harriet Hala Styling // Lucy Robi Hair & Make-Up // Wacuka Thimba Assistant // Rose Nginah October Cape // Patricia Mbela, Beaded Brass Neckpiece and Bracelet // Enkaya Designs and Agnes Mukuhi Mwanzia Gown & Mesh Skirt / Nato Design House 10

Photography // Danilo Pavlovic Interview // Stefan Kokovic 17

After he received his first award in 1997, everyone knew that the world is yet to hear about Dragan Vurdelja. Very quickly he became recognized as one of the most successful make-up artists in the region. As a beauty expert, he collaborated with many different celebrities, worked on many projects, campaigns and manifestations. But the story of Dragan Vurdelja didn’t end up there. He opened “Dragan Vurdelja Makeup School” in Belgrade and started working with his sister Cecilija. Cecilija Vurdelja became a “talk of the town” as a perspective makeup-artist and today the brother-sister duo is a very strong brand. Dragan and Cecilija talk about their work, family, London, DV Cosmetics and much more.

Both of you have very successful careers and obviously family is something that you stand for, but when was that point where you have understood that brother and sister are also the best business partners?

You have an image of a strong, successful and serious artist whose name is a brand of its own. Is this a thing you always wanted to create or is this something that just came naturally?

Cecilija: At first, I have thought that something like that was impossible. I was torn between my personal life and work. Eventually, I have changed as a person and as a businesswoman and my brother also understood how professional I have become. Today, we trust each other a lot. Working with my brother has completely changed me – personally and professionally and today we work together very successfully.

Dragan: In the beginning, all I wanted was to be a makeup artist. After few years, it was clear to me that this is a job like every other and in order to have a successful business, you have to have clear goals, ambition and persistence. A lot of things have come naturally and they still do, but if you want to grow and develop in any business – whatever comes naturally is sometimes just not enough.

Dragan: For me, it was after coming back from London. With new ideas and new work-space, our cooperation came very naturally. I am in this business for more than 20 years and I have opened the makeup school in 2006. I remember that I have told Cecilija to finish the course and to learn as much as possible. She worked really hard and she did it! And not just that, but she became a hardcore professional.

When people talk about your great work and about the experience they had with you on certain projects, what is that one thing you appreciate hearing about yourself? Cecilija: To me, the most important thing is; when I hear people talking about how quickly I am growing as a makeup artist as well as how precise I am, balanced and with my feet on the ground.

If you could describe each other in three words what would you say? Cecilija: Three words: Dragan. Vurdelja. Brother. Dragan: Sister. Mother. Queen. How is working in London different from working in the Balkan region? Dragan: The competition is higher but so are the possibilities. London is the city where trends are created and they are spread further through the world. London is also the home to some of the greatest make-up artists of today. For me, being in London feels like I am constantly at the source of inspiration and creativity.

Cecilija: God, yes! You have presented your own skincare line. What are your next ideas and projects when it comes to DV Cosmetics? Dragan: The DV Skin Care Collection was created in cooperation with experts from the Aromtea workshop. That is just the first step of what DV Cosmetics should represent in the future. I always emphasize how nursing your skin is essential, so it is logical that my first collection of products is – skin care.

What was your favourite project to work on by now? Cecilija: Every project is very meaningful to me, but one of the most interesting ones were: “Dancing with the Stars” and “Your Face Sounds Familiar” You have many students going to your School. What is the most precious advice you give them when they are entering the Fashion/Beauty/Makeup industry? Cecilija: I always tell them to have their own personal “seal”, so that they could separate themselves from other makeup artists, to learn, learn and learn as much as possible and to work on their personal growth. Dragan: I advise them to take advantage of every opportunity in life, to educate themselves as much as they can, to travel and to share their experiences with other colleagues, but to remain authentic. How would you describe your personal style? Dragan: Minimal and I prefer wearing black. Do you advise your children to go through the same business-path as you did, or do you completely support their free will? Cecilija: Being a single parent of three children is a very difficult task. Although they are very different from each other, they all show this artistic side in a way. My task as a mother is to direct them with bits of advice, but I let them decide what they want to be when they grow up. Both of you are also known as an attractive people. Do you think that this is also very important when building a personal brand in Fashion Industry? Dragan: Appearance is more important in the fashion industry than it is in other industries. I have to say that fashion industry is often a frustrated bitch, but good looks are NOT the most important thing in the world at the end of a day. 19

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Photographer // Ellen von Unwerth Models // Sasha Mart, Estelle Enette and Yuniya P. Hair // Antonio Corral Calero using Moroccan Oil Makeup // Romero Jennings using Mac Cosmetics Styling // Nausheen Shah

Leather Coats with snakeskin prints, a simple black evening gown topped off with sequin ruffles and sequin pants, that hit the exact spot between elegant and edgy. The New York-based label GEORGINE is known for its lavish pieces that embody the modern style of New York like only a few other names in fashion do. Georgine Ratelband found Georgine in 2014 and debuted with her much acclaimed first collection at NYFW in 2014. after graduating the Istituto Europeo di Design in 2011. Before graduating in Milan, Ratelband gained the attention of the Antwerp concept store “Sien”, that purchased her entire thesis collection. Taking inspiration from her mother’s closet, famous hotel dwellers or the vibrant clash of uptown meets downtown, her collections deliver both in terms of design as well as production. Claiming, that a garment should be as beautiful from the inside as it is from the outside, Ratelband is giving us with GEORGINE another luxury Pret-à-porter label to love. For their SS18 collection, they got Ellen von Unwerth to shoot the campaign. Jon-Eric Hegemann

www.karlmichael.net

ASOS BOX ew i v e R As a self-proclaimed beauty addict, there was something really missing in my life: monthly beauty boxes. When it comes to those, unfortunately, Austria doesn’t offer as many options as the USA or the UK, so the FOMO (read: fear of missing out) was real. Instagram can be cruel sometimes until ASOS had the brilliant idea of creating their own monthly box. I got already three of them and the goodies inside were amazing. Subscription boxes are super interesting ways of trying out new products and brands, and the value inside is way higher than what you pay, sounds interesting right? And it is! Onto the box: it is this gorgeous white box, with the ASOS logo in a trendy holographic print, very minimal, very ASOS. Inside of the box, different every month, there’s a curated selection of their hottest and newest brands for us cool kids to ‘Go Play’ as it is said on their slogan. All the possible categories of beauty and grooming are present: skincare, makeup, body care, etc. and the items are a mix of full-sized products and minis. Some examples of included products are their own line of make-up, liquid lipsticks from brands as The Beauty Bakerie and Lime Crime, make-up brushes, Alpha H Skincare and Pureology Haircare just to name a few. To know more about it check the ASOS (www.asos.de) website and their special Instagram for beauty stuff @asos_faceandbody @Midnightmerlot

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Photography // Stefan Kokovic Model // Aila / Stella Models Hair & Makeup // Melanie Zickl using MAC cosmetics Styling // Jon-Eric Hegemann Looks// MILK, Michel Mayer, Karl Michael Black Cocktail Dress// MILK Mesh Shirt// Michel Mayer Black & White Cocktail Dress // Michel Mayer Golden Half Jacket // Karl Michael Satin Bomber Jacket // Karl Michael 30

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MIHANO MOMOSA / BRIDAL 2018

Photography // Dusan Petrovic, Make up // Mina Abramovic, Hair // Djuka Ivanovic, Model // Nadja Marinkovic, Scenography // Ksenija Josifovic

The unique eye of Mihailo Anusic, designer of Mihano Momosa always knows how to transform classic beauty into modern day high-end fashion. For the first time, the Serbian design house has released a standalone Bridal ollection, that embodies the trademark Mihano Momosa style within every single piece of its Bridal Couture. With love and passion being one of the two main pillars of Mihano Momosa, it was just a matter of time to see the brand releasing an entire collection dedicated to love and partnership. Always having his clients in mind, Anusic designed every single dress based on his experiences with his former clients. The collection includes 14 bridal couture gowns, making every single dress a hommage to sophisticated beauty and perfect tailoring. For the personal touch, Anusic has included personal messages into his designs such as Endless, Timeless, Eternity, Hero of my hearth, I belong with you, Serendipity, Forever I Complete. His trademark use of feathers is seen in both floor-length gowns as well as short dresses. Aside from feathers, he used tulle, silk and precious lace for his creations. The Mihano Momosa Bridal 2018 collection is a celebration of romance and the one special day in life dedicated to eternal love. Jon-Eric Hegemann

THE NEW YORKER PERSPECTIVE TYRA-STINA WILHELMSSON @tyrastinamim 40

When I was a little girl, my future me and I established a promise. Together we would, as we called it, do the impossible. I started wearing high heels before I could walk. I started choosing my own outfits before I could talk. And I started reading magazines before I could actually read. Yes, that creepy person has got a name, Tyra-Stina. I’m a (soon) 21-year old small town girl who grew up in a petit harbour village in southern Sweden. My big interest in fashion, styling and writing has always been a big fact. After graduating high school I was so hungry on life I barely couldn’t stand up without scoffing chips. During my first year as a free bird, I tried everything from working in kindergarten to being a telemarketer and standing behind the register at H&M. But Sweden didn’t make me hungry enough. New York has always been a big dream. It all started when I was 7 years old and casually browsed through a daily newspaper. The main section was about two girls in their twenties who moved to New York to fulfil their dreams. At the time, it was actually all I could understand out from the article, but still, it sparked a big interest in me. The second after, I called my mom. I said ”Mom, I’m going to move to New York someday”.. she gave me the look and a pleasant smile since I came up with one new big dream every day or even every hour. But for that certain time, I knew mum was wrong. I cut out the article from the paper and hung it up on my blush pink wall. The day before I left my little hometown for New York I looked at that article and whispered a big, fat, thank you. To me, there has always been a particularly special mystique that surrounds people who live their dream. Because, if you really put a finger on it, there’s no one else that stopping you from doing whatever you want, than you. New York keeps my hungry enough. Here’s always a new line to cross or a higher level to reach. This city also force you to be honest with yourself – honest about who you are, who you want to be and why you should have a spot in this world.

What’s your impossible move?

TREND REPORT

UP TO W N UND E R GR OU N D 42

Grunge is cleaned up by unexpected layers of lace, leather and graphics for a grown-up take on this traditionally edgier trend,with the mix of high-low styling essential to fulfill the look. The childhood cartoon or band T-shirt is macro-sized and placed centre front or spliced into a print with unexpected fIoral prints and lace. Dark boho is taking an Uptown Beat in a new way searching for the new expression with the sequin and elegant details. Ana Vasiljevic 43

Pullover // Tzuji (Runway Vienna) Satin Skirt // Karl Michael

Coat // Tatjana Flatz (Runway Vienna)

Vintage Swimsuit and Coat // Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own

Vintage Swimsuit and Coat // Stylistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own

Photographers // Edvin Kalic, Franjo MatkoviÄ&#x2021; and Mimi Antolovic Interview // Stefan Kokovic 50

MATEYANEIRA

Mateyaneira became noticed after Sarajevo Film Festival, to where they brought a serious touch of glamour to the scene. After that moment, their road guided straight ahead as they have become one of the most perspective, young designers in the Balkan region. Celebrities love to wear their pieces, they work hard on their collections and they combine minimalistic elements with elegant style. They are against the use of real fur in fashion and they stand for handmade work. We present you – Mateyaneira.

oth of designers behind the MATEYANEIRA label have like-minded taste, but what are the differences between the two of you? What makes this brand so unique? Yes, we have like-minded taste, but we have different temperaments and energies, which is good for developing our ideas. Most of the time, Mateja has an initiative - “You-knowwhat-we-could-make” and then Neira takes it to another level by going - “This-is-how-itneeds-to-be-done” and, sometimes, it is the other way around. Our synergy makes the final product. Who or what are your influences? Where do you find the inspiration? We have a lot of men-suits influences and we are also trying to pull off that a sex appeals to our clothing, without showing and exposing too much. Our collections are the result of everyday inspirations. We could say that our inspiration comes from our wishes. Do you design clothes following the needs of the market or following your own intuition? We’re not following “needs of the market”, but we do have in mind needs of our environment because we like to say that people around us are very characteristic, authentic and we cherish that. We design things by following our intuition, but we also respect wishes and needs of our clients. That is when we make custom designs and corrections of our own ideas to bring it more closely to the final consumer.

Do you think that the global fashion scene is going in the right direction? If so, why? In our opinion – it would be the best if fashion would go in this direction, where small producers respect their workers and pay them properly. Fair trade should be the direction of the fashion in the future. As we are part of that world, we feel responsible and we try to think global, but act local and to start from ourselves. The fashion industry is really big and it is very cruel – sometimes to animals, sometimes to people, sometimes to our planet, but fashion is also beautiful and it deserves appreciation, but we cannot appreciate cheap, unhealthy, unethical, synthetic sh*t, right? This is why everything needs to be more respectful and fair on a global level. Why minimalism? That is our current mood, we cannot say that it will ever fade, but then again, who knows. In general, we think that there is much more to see and to recognize in minimalistic approach than there is in chaos. We’re both very expressive when we work, walk or talk, so basically our clothing is something that is giving us calmness. “Cut” collection was a big regional success. Why do you think that is? Well, first of all – it was something different. We have given 100% of ourselves to this collection and people have noticed that. We also think that it is refreshing to see handmade and well-made clothes which are based on ready to wear and look expensive. 51

Do you have plans on going to a mass-production or do you find hand-made products your thing? The idea is to stay focused and to keep the hand-made production “our thing”. We are building our own market now and it will not be a mass-production since we try to connect closely with our clients and to have a personal approach to each one of them. Yes, there is a plan to make some smaller series of our best-sellers for the retails, but that is it. We have many favorites from your collections – Cashmere Coat (Cut Collection), Long Black Coat (Cut Collection) and dresses from all of the collections combined. What are your personal favorites and is there a story behind every single piece? There are so many stories behind our clothes. Our favorite piece is the fake-furcoat. It was made by a great craftsman who is totally old school – but he accepts all of our “weird” requests and ideas. We were searching for a long time to find a really nice faux-fur and, finally, our coat was made! After our fashion show at Ljubljana’s Fashion Week, many people were criticizing our usage of the “real” fur. Our goal was to show how good faux-fur could look like! Obviously – it was too good! Do you think that fashion repeats itself and what are your predictions for the global, upcoming fashion trends? Yes, it does. Usually, we don’t follow or predict this kind of things but let’s say the 90’s – the beginning of the new millennium. So, yeah – wish us luck (laughter)!

Photographer // Franjo Matkovic; Models // Laura Bracun, Dorotea Valentic; Makeup // Dajana Pajkic; Hair // Mijo Majhen

Photographer // Franjo Matkovic; Model // Laura Bracun; Makeup // Dajana Pajkic; Hair // Mijo Majhen

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Henrik Vibskov is probably best described as the master in merging fashion and art. Personally, I can never wait to see what he has come up with for his next collection, let it be the fashion itself, the stage setting, or the theme. Somehow, he manages to take something incredibly simple and transform it into a concept that seems not to be from this world. For the Henrik Vibskov SS18 collection, the inspiration was one performer, who fell asleep during the last Henrik Vibskov show. Jon-Eric Hegemann

Latest news and collections at henrikvibskovboutique.com

Photography & Interview STEFAN KOKOVIC

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His charisma is one of the things that he is known for and he can really teach anyone to fiercely walk the Fashion Show or pose during a photo-session. Alamande Belfor is an event-planner, entertainer, dancer and choreographer. He is best known for his professionalism, charismatic smile, free spirit and stunning good looks. He was a judge on â&#x20AC;&#x153;Austriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Next Top Modelâ&#x20AC;? and now, he is talking about his life, inspiration, plans and fashion. 61

What is the most important thing when organizing an event?

At what time do you get up in the morning?

The most important thing is to respect the client’s wishes, but also adding a personal touch to it. When I am organizing my own events, I tend to be innovative and different.

My time to get up in the morning differs to the extent of the project that I am busy with. I am self-employed and I can say that I am a morning person. I try to go to bed early. Hence, I wake up early.

What are three things you can’t live without?

When was the last time you went out to a club and do you steal the dance-floor when you go out?

I can’t live without – love, joy and diversity, forgiveness.

It is very difficult to choose, but I think dance would always be something to express my happiness and make others happy, which inspires me to create fashion. It means that one leads to another.

Going out to a club was never a priority. I learned that there is a variety of ways to amuse yourself like going to the cinema, a nice round-talk with friends, visiting a jazz club, going to some concert or a good restaurant and much more. Sometimes, when I go out, I like to observe people and the way they move and express themselves through the art of moving their bodies rather than showing off.

How important is fashion in your life?

What is your guilty pleasure?

Fashion has a certain place in my life. It doesn’t change the world, but it plays a role in how people perceive me and that is very important. As a matter of fact, it gives me the feeling that I belong somewhere where I can use my personal taste and create something new. All of this gives me a certain credibility to stir my little finger in the coffee of fashion and make it different from others.

Sometimes doing nothing at all is my biggest guilty pleasure.

If you had to pick, which would you choose – fashion or dance?

Name one piece of clothing that can never be replaced. It’s the clothing itself that can never be replaced. We live in an ever-changing world and we will always use something to cover ourselves, no matter what we use – clothing, leaves, plastic pieces, wood, stickers, colors or just our own hair (laughs). What is the greatest obstacle you have had to overcome in your career? Once you lose almost everything you have built up in your life, you realize that with faith in a loving, caring and creative God, every obstacle, no matter how big it is, can be overcome. At the end, the only thing that stays is a peace of mind, like the water after a heavy storm.

“It inspires me when people tell me that I can’t make it”

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Who or what is your biggest inspiration? My biggest inspiration is when people tell me that I can’t make it. Then, all of a sudden, I get the urge to prove them wrong. I also get my inspiration from my surroundings, nature and people.

If you could close your eyes and be anywhere in the world when you open them, where would you be? On the beach, somewhere with a subtropical climate, with pure and pleasant water temperatures, surrounded by cool, positive and happy people with whom I would spend time surfing. You stand for human rights. If you could end three bad things in this world, what would they be? I would stop child abuse, I would stop women abuse and I would stop racism. What are your plans for the future? Keeping on doing things that make me happy, cause that is my way of being successful and to keep on trusting in God.

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TREND REPORT

Palmer Harding

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DISSECTED VOLUME Beautiful and precise romantic cuts with a touch of geometry and with a deconstructed twist provide a contemporary edge. Structured asymmetric silhouettes and exaggerated volume are rendered with manipulated pattern-cutting techniques. Attention to detail creates androgynous yet refined silhouettes with a one-of-a-kind sensibility. Structure and fluidity are fused for a young and modern approach with a take on utility, work wear and tomboy looks. Sartorial influences trickle down to a softness from shoulder to body, making the trend more wearable. Ana Vasiljevic

Robert Motherwell - Artwork

Famous German actor Jo Weil, known for his role of Oliver Sabel in a popular TV series “Verbotene Liebe” and for being a VIP contestant in a dance-show“Dance, Dance, Dance”, talks about his dreams, ambitions, favourite clothing pieces and plans for the future.

Photography // Max Sonnenschein Interview // Stefan Kokovic 68

Describe yourself in three words. Passionate. Focused. Caring. What is the thing that pushes you over your own limits? What inspires you and makes you do everything you do in life? I guess it’s the deep passion I’m feeling for the things I do. I am very lucky that I’m able to make a living out of something that I love the most. I’m living exactly the life I dreamed of when I was a child and I feel very blessed because of this. If you love what you do you can achieve whatever you dream of – at least that’s what I believe in. Who is hiding behind the handsome outside of Jo Weil? If you were someone else, would you be Jo Weil`s best friend? First of all, thank you for the compliment about my outside! Well, honestly, I don’t think that I’m handsome, but that’s another story. I guess there’s just a random guy hiding inside of me, though I think there isn’t too much hiding, as my profession is all about showing every side and emotion of me as a human being. I’m a humble person and if I’m not in front of the cameras, I’m actually a very shy guy. Hard to say if I’d be Jo Weil’s best friend. Maybe you’d have to ask my real best friends if they think I’d get along with myself. I‘ve learned to live with all of my flaws. If I, as another person, would be able to accept those flaws, I guess a close friendship would be possible (laughs). How important is fashion in your life? Not as important as people like to think. I like to wear comfortable clothes and I don’t really spend much time thinking about my style. As a matter of fact, every now and then, my job re-

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quires me to wear suits for different events, red carpet appearances and award shows. But even then I only wear things which I like, no matter if they follow the actual trend or not. We know that shows like “Will & Grace” had a major influence on culture, as well as on human and LGBT rights. You also had experience portraying a gay character on screen – do you think that television industry advanced in that manner and what message would you like to send with your characters in the future? When I started to portray the bisexual character of Olli, I wasn’t aware of the impact that it would have on the lives of so many people all over the world. It’s something that just happened. We should never forget – I’m just an actor playing characters. All I do is say the lines which someone else wrote. But still, it’s nice that my work helped people to be happier and live better lives. Name one actor and actress that you would love to work with. Claire Foy and Jake Gyllenhaal! Name three things you would like to have with you on a deserted island. A friendly and open-minded monkey (that can talk and help us find food and water), my hairdryer and a speedboat that would bring me back to the cruise ship waiting for me once the deserted island begins to bore me. One piece of clothing that can never be replaced? My blue jeans!

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Is acting something that you always wanted to do? Absolutely. Even as a little child there was nothing else I wanted to be. Don’t know why, as there are no actors or any other artists in my family. I always felt deep down that it is my calling, so I was always convinced that one day I’d actually become an actor. OK, maybe just for one day, when I was about 10 years old, I wanted to be a ringmaster. But as I just said – that was only a day-long period. How different is the British film industry and do you see yourself in it? It’s different and not so different at the same time. In the UK they tend to cast me for different roles than they do in Germany. This is quite nice because, this way, I get to play a lot of different characters. Last year I had the chance to act in two British Feature Films – in one I even had the lead role. I hope there will be many more opportunities to work on international productions as I love to live and work in London. Keep your fingers crossed for me! We couldn`t help but notice your great dancing skills in a show called “Dance Dance Dance”. Could dancing be your future call? That is a clear NO! I never liked dancing until I was part of “Dance Dance Dance”. As a contestant on this fantastic show, I realized that it can be lots of fun, though. And through endless hours of training and bleeding feet, my coaches got me to the point where I could perform some cool choreographies, my favourite one being “She Bangs” by Ricky Martin. But I have to be honest with myself – dancing is definitely not something that I feel comfortable with (laughs). What are your plans for the future? First of all, I hope that everyone I love, and also myself, stay healthy and happy. Professionally, there are some cool things for 2018 in the works – I’m pretty sure you’ll like them.

I V O B Y M A R C O O VA N D O

What might sound like a model dream as old is time has become reality for Ivo Buchta. Growing up in the Austrian countryside, he signed with Stella Models in Vienna in 2011 from where his international career started. Booked for names like Calvin Klein, Versace and Phillip Plein, Ivo became a fixed star in the international fashion business. The New York based fashion photographer Marco Ovando shot the Austrian model in a series of intimate portraits.

Model // Ivo Buchta

EVERYDAY FASHION ESSENTIALS IN 5 STEPS

Don’t you just hate it when you look at all the celebs and bloggers and they always look perfect and so stylish, although they’re wearing nothing but jeans and some knitwear? I know, right? Well, there are some ultimate style tricks that you can implement in your wardrobe and top up your fashion game. Keep these rules in mind and it will change your life. I got you covered and yes, you can thank me later. Step one – White shirt Everyone should at least own one. It’s a classic that will make you look always fashionable. There are plenty of white shirts out there but go for an oversized one or one with detailed buttons so you don’t look like you just stepped out of the office. Wear it with jeans for a casual airport look or pair it with vinyl trousers ( so in right now!!!) and some killer heels for the glam look

print shoes to bring your outfit to a next level. When buying a coat, go for something that will stand out rather than just a plain one. If you are not so convinced about the pattern, then at least go for some interesting texture of the fabric. We tend to wear quite plain and dark clothes in winter, so statement coat will add a bit of colour to your wardrobe.

Step two – Sunglasses There’s something about them that makes you look 1000 times better. Maybe it’s a fact that they cover half of your face and they are life savers on a day after a sleepless night (we all have been there right?). Go for a classic black Celine shades to add a bit of Jackie Kennedy vibe. Nice sunnies can change the outfit completely, so check which style suits the best your face shape and wear them on every single occasion (maybe except in the evening). Step three – Accessories The outfit is not completed without them. As said by the fashion guru Anna Dello Russo ‘Accessories are like vitamins to fashion’ and we all know you should take your daily 5 a day seriously. Good statement earrings will work wonder when worn with a simple black dress. Think about your statement piece, one thing that will catch everyone’s attention either it is a cool printed bag, a hat or some belt with a cool buckle. They are basically what makes your outfit stylish and elevates your look.

Step five – Details They kind of add a cool factor to your look. Pay attention to details and when choosing a black rollneck, go for a one with some buttons on sleeves, or a shirt with some detailed collar, a skirt with ruffles, something that will stand out and separate itself from other rollnecks or shirts. Keep that in mind when going shopping and you will end up with some nice emerging pieces that will make every outfit look great.

Step four – Print There is something about prints that make a look go from nice to wow! When you wear all black on a rainy day, add leopard bag or snake

SANDRA IMIELA @sandyaleimmi 77

Ikiré Jones “Look at God” SS18

“Though much is taken, much abides; and though We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are.” ~ Alfred Lord Tennyson. “Ulysses”

Photography // Joshua Kissi Models // Elanor Grace Bock, Mohamed Ouedraogo, Lawrence Annunziata, Nana Yaa, Make Up Artist // Alana Wright Creative Direction & Copy // Walé Oyéjidé

Not only is Black Panther one of the most successful movies of this year and given actors with African heritage roles and a platform they have been denied for over centuries, the movie also brought attention to the masterpieces of African fashion design. More specifically, the designs of the Nigerian fashion label Ikiré Jones. Ikiré Jones’ latest collection “Look at God” is inspired by the movie and the different shapes beauty comes in. Jon-Eric Hegemann

WHO IS NOMADE MODERNE?

When I first moved to Vienna, my friends told me about this guy who makes amazing photographs on Instagram. Very quickly I got into his work and discovered a multi-talented person behind the Nomade Moderne. I say this because it is actually the name of his brand. This guy makes hats. And even that is not all – he is a photographer and a proud part of the Molcho family. Yes, the family behind the “NENI” concept – a real gastronomy empire! And no matter what he does or who his parents are, Nuriel Molcho stays down to earth, humble and sweet. During this interview, he was charming and very approachable. The photoshoot was done in several minutes and he was more than happy to answer every question I had. Sitting in his workshop next to the “NENI” restaurant at Naschmarkt (Vienna), sipping warm coffee, the young artist smiled as he waved his mother who was walking by, still focusing on his answers and sharing his interesting story; dear everyone, Nuriel Molcho talks fashion, family, business and inspiration. 82

You have a very interesting family-related fashion story. Could you tell us more about that? Were your parents the ones who taught you how to “breathe” fashion? I grew up in a family that is very open-minded when it comes to fashion. My parents taught me not to dress like everyone else and to always be myself. Whatever I wanted to wear, they were fine with and they always told me to wear my clothes with confidence. People used to call my father - Samy the Black, because he used to wear black clothing only. My father didn`t grew up in money, so black was always an elegant and “safe” fashion choice. In Israel nobody dresses in black because it is usually too hot, but my father always pulled it off. He wore interesting jewellery and the combina-

tion was always trendy and different. Mother, on the other hand, is usually oriental-dressed. She likes bright colours, “hippie” style and comfortable materials, which makes my style the combination of the two. You are an artist. How does art affect your style? Are these things related at all? I grew up surrounded by artists. Art is something aesthetic and it builds the way everything looks. I personally believe that fashion is a type of art and expressing yourself. I also appreciate textures and materials, so I can say that knowing art plays a big role in my style.

Photography // Nuriel Molcho Interview // Stefan Kokovic

Do you spend a lot of money on clothing? I used to spend a lot of money on clothing when I was young. I was a “fast buyer”, but that changed with time. Father taught me to always choose quality over quantity. Now I don’t shop a lot, but I shop very smart. I am aware of what I wear. My fiancé has a huge role in this, since she takes care of where something was produced and in what way. I can say that I support “green fashion”. You are designing hats. Why is that? Why are your hats different from anything else we have seen so far? I personally like wearing hats and its Jewish heritage. My opinion is - that you can be good in something just if you really believe in what you are doing. My hats are special, unique and not produced quickly. The price plays an important role in my work, so - the best price for the best quality. Making hats was not something that I have thought I would be doing and I have learned it myself. Hours of Google, YouTube and, at the end, I have learned final touches from several old hat masters. Today, you can get a fully customized hat in my shop. Does this mean that wearing a good hat is sometimes enough to look stylish? Many clients come to me dressed all “normal”, but as soon as they put the hat - they feel that wow effect that I am always going for. They also trust me and my taste and I really give a lot of attention to each customer. Your family is very well-known for their gastronomy empire. Could you tell us more about the family business and why is it so important to you? The most important thing to us is - family. We are family, friends, everything. NENI is a family business - three brothers and a mother. We never learned how to work in gastronomy, because it came out of passion. Our recipe for success is - home cooking and a friendly at-

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mosphere. First NENI was opened on Naschmarkt, because there is a special bond between NENI and markets. My mother learned how to cook at a market and that is what makes our restaurants so special! You have three brothers. Rank them from best dressed to worst. Elior doesn’t care about fashion at all, so he is the worst - sorry bro`. Others care about it and I have to notice that we are a stylish family. All of my brothers are very different. Ilan has a good style, but he goes from very classic to streetwear - huge variations. Nadiv is an actor and he dresses like an actor. I guess he is charming enough (laugh). If you could be anyone else for a day, who would you be? That is a good question. I always loved music. I don`t know who would I like to be, but singing on stage is something that I would like to try for a day. So, I would be a singer. What are the two things you can`t start your day without? My fiancé Audrey and Instagram (but in a sense that I like getting visual inspiration, not as an addiction). What are the plans for the future - yours and NENI`s? When it comes to NENI, we are opening in Paris, Majorca, Amsterdam and Köln. We are moving into a new supermarket production and we are expanding in this direction. As for me - it is something you can`t predict and it is just being full time updated. I am always searching for the new inspiration, etc. Let`s say that one of the plans could be pushing my brand internationally - fashion weeks and such.

The Molcho Family

MILANO: THE NEW RENAISSANCE

Being an Italian fashionista writing on a cutting-edge Austrian magazine does not give me much of credibility when it comes to celebrating Milano, the place where I live. But maybe if drops of my childhood leaked out like in a spy movie you may get to know that I actually was born as nothing like a Milanese, raised in a German-speaking little bit of Italy and that my friends’ names back at the time were more likely to be Hans and Hubsi rather than Peppino or Gianni. So I hope the ones that are still reading these lines will trust me when i say that Milano is in the very middle of a rebirth process. But Milano is no place for time wasters and, once stated that the golden age was gone with the wind the whole town rolled sleeves up ready to show the ropes! It was the end of the ’90 when, as a young receptionist, I first faced the Duomo: grey, old, severe church that supervised the crumbles of the ’80 knowing there was more to come. Step one: cleaning. Like when you wake up after a long party and you find the place is a mess, you know that’s the first thing to do. Clean the streets, the building’s facades, public parks and metro stations. Then make everything look beautiful. And listen to the people’s requests. Give them gardens for children and spaces for dogs, bike lanes and new means of transport. Not only the world famous via Montenapoleone with its fancy shops! Find a beauty for each corner of the city: design district where an old, abandoned rail station was, music and drinks on the sides of the canal where Leonardo designed the river locks, new and attractive affordable luxury shops on the way to the very center, and build the future where crumbles of the past had been sitting for over fifty years. There you get a new skyline and a new energy. There you see young people willing to come and see, spend time and get to know the place that, from the middle of nowhere, has made its way in history.

Could fashion system not feel and be part of this? Impossible! In spite of politics that still consider an industry employing some hundreds of thousands of people as a moody toy for few lucky party rats, the fashion industry in Italy never gave up. Attention to quality and that magic mix of the sense of beauty and need for practical cannot be replaced by a low-cost \ long distance production. Because all ingredients of the cocktail were already there, we saw within few years the blooming of new (and old) flowers: Gucci, under the wild romantic hands of Alessandro Michele, Versace with the blessing of unforgettable Gianni still inspiring the designs of Donatella. So new, fresh voices such as Fausto Puglisi or the rocky, German-accented creations of Philipp Plein, whose parties during fashion week have already become a legend. So you may wonder if this first column was meant to be some sort of an advertising spot for my city. No, my friends. It is a way to get to know each other right before we get our hands dirty in fashion mud, which -for as charming as it may be- is just a drop of the whole lake. But most of all it is a way to welcome you into my world as heartfully as I have been welcomed in yours.

Matteo Osso

Interview // Ana Vasiljevic Photography // Delphine Diallo, Nigel Hosang, J.Quazi King 90

Combining elements of sculpture and fashion design and taking it to another level of art, New York-based artist Joanne Petit-Frere developed her â&#x20AC;&#x153;TresseAgocheâ&#x20AC;? series of hair sculptures with a futuristic vision of womanhood in mind. Woven and mask-like, the artworks echo the religious rituals and folk art forms of many different cultures, endowing the wearer of these hair sculptures with an air of regal power. Captivating and, at the same time, challenging traditional conceptions of beauty in relation to the female figure, this great artist is giving a new meaning to the jewelry sculpting and visual art with experimental approach, giving the freedom of expression a totally new meaning.

How did you get started in jewelery sculpting?

Has Haitian culture influenced your personal style and if so, in what way?

I had co-founded a collective called Comotroovaysa with some friends, years ago. Nia K. Evans, Eric N. Mack & Tomashi Jackson. We were all collectively producing experimental jewelry that I designed.

Absolutely. I grew up wearing hair ribbons, ruffle socks and even bonnets as a baby. These are elements I still love to implement into my personal style. Not exactly ribbons, per se, but the casual dress-up. I remember being the only girl in my Pre-K class wearing hair ribbons. I was embarrassed by them at the time, for I removed them once I got to school. I didn’t like the idea of me standing out like that. Funny enough, at the same time, I remember having drawn my first fashion figure made from a heart. I think I had just seen snippets of Roger the Rabbit on television and was very inspired by Jessica’s dress. I wish I had this drawing to this day. But yes, Haitian culture, as well as American culture, has influenced my personal style very much, especially having a French sensibility as well as they have colonized Haiti in the past before we gained independence in 1804. I intend to explore this much more in depth with photographers and myself as their muse. This separates my hair sculptures as their own entity. However, this is all in development - as well other interests which I plan to incorporate into my style of delivery.

Comotroovaysa - How did you come up with that? A rare experience of desire. An accumulation of materials that dictates its own value. These rarified jewelry art pieces are made with everyday industrial produced items repurposed. One’s understanding of the materials’ prior state only adds to the mystique of these objects, begging the question: Where did you find that? To codify such a question, relates to a kind of energy embedded in the works. Freedom to use. Make without remorse. And yet, the pieces speak for themselves. I started experimenting with jewelry sculpting while sitting in conversation with Nia K. Evans. I remember - I had created a palm ring that consisted of four small miniature pandas! From there, we knew we were onto something. Eric & Tomashi were attending the Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art while I was attending the Fashion Institute of Technology and Nia, Columbia University. We all exercised our specialties to work on this Jewelry Sculpture project. How has your Haitian roots influenced your work? My series, Redressing the Crown, is a statement to the colonization of the French on my Haitian people, a statement to the need of redressing certain thoughts from both sides, the Haitians and the French, especially considering the fact that many ideals are still warped. Redressing the Crown is a call to the fact that I as an artist, utilizing hair and tools of identity to flip these notions of inferiority of Haitians to the French or West African cultures, thus showing that Haiti is a unison of the two; a beautiful braiding of both cultures. 92

Tell me something about your collaboration with Les Nubians. It seemed very exciting. Both ladies of Les Nubians are lovely. They were one of the first celebrity clients I have worked with. They are my French-African sisters. I need to see them again soon. What can you tell us about your Tresse Agoche design project? Tresse Agoche was a design project that has helped raise awareness to my work with hair sculptures. It translates into ‘ Braid Left ‘ although the pronunciation is in French, the spelling is in Haitian Creole to honor my hand and roots of a once French colonized people. My main mission with TA was to hypersensitize the braid, while showing its extensive -

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- architectural capabilities and connecting its multicultural reference. One of the things I noticed throughout our work is your challenging the beauty and its traditional perception. Do you think it’s important to question contemporary aspect of the beauty perception?

sculptures. It usually starts with my archive of images, with just me and the hairstyles or drawings I’m making. It seems that there is a lot of freedom in expressing artistic visions, yet original visual artists like you are very rare. Why do you think that is?

I think that is a very big question - what is beautiful? Contemporarily, it is most important, as we are in the middle of a collective societal transformations. A lot has been changing. More than any other question, everyone can answer it with the most divergent answers. However, this is still an askew perception as to what kind of people exist in what is deemed beautiful .This particular sector, I aim to challenge. As I find myself, freely operating in different ideals of beauty, I would like to help others free themselves from this kind of constraint, the constraint of their image not being deemed beautiful.

I believe my experiences have brought me to this path. I do honor the privileges I’ve been able to partake, in due to gifts passed down from my parents as well as what my heart consists of. The fighter in me is also very much alive. This combination of collective experiences and honing in on them with love and the fight for progression of beauty

As an visual artist, you mix different media and give hairstyling and fashion totally new dimensions. Where do you get your inspiration from?

“Her latest enterprise, titled ``Jo Goes West`` is a self-described “metaphor in a multitude of ways”. It is a movement, an archival approach inspired by my own inquiry; of the historical facts in connection to the art of my practice in utilizing hair and braids. She was inspired to embark on this project, which explores the origins of multiple hairstyles, while on a road trip to California. I started to develop ideas, reading a lot about Western philosophy, world literature and learning more about West Caribbean politics. I re-watched Fievel Goes West and read Jack Kerouac’s On the Road – my favorite; Lorraine Hainsberry’s To Be Young Gifted and Black and I was stunned by Elizabeth Abott’s first inside account of Haiti. She is hoping that this research will become a publication or develop an even bigger showcase that encompasses her sculptures and archive material. “My goal is to engage with those even outside of hair; shedding light on an artist who is trying to stay woke and chill, while changing the world for the alternative better “

Thank you for the compliment. I am very grateful to take part in a time that is very progressive and that allows for different mediums to exist through the digital space. My practice is a bit of a slowing-down of this progression, if you will. At least, the technological one. I like to practice art analog style. From braiding my crafts, to utilizing a 35mm film camera to incorporating classic film ideology to help trigger memory in my interactions. These all inspire my work with hair in fashion. Tell us a little bit of your process of creation, where does it start and how it develops. It changes, depending on the project. When I am working alone, however - I love to burn sandalwood incense and to place two drops of Rose Absolute essential oil on my wrist before I begin braiding and constructing my hair

What are you working on at the moment? Recently, I had a conversation with Holly Black. She was able to articulate my words the best:

Harri Stojka, a legend in the genre of Jazz is known for his extravagant style and mixing of different styles and genres. Born in 1957, he is part of Austriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Roma community and he connects his work to the music, that is part of his heritage and touches his hart â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Gipsy Jazz.

What are you most afraid of? I am most afraid of sickness. If you had a chance to go 15 years back in time, what advice would you give to your younger self? I would advise myself to stay away from drugs. Regarding your parents, what are you most thankful for? I always admired the way my parents loved life. That is the thing that they transferred to me - I just love life! What do you want to be remembered for? I want to be remembered as a guitarist, because playing the guitar is the most important thing in my life. If your father had not gotten you your first guitar, what other instrument would you play?

Music is not divisible. It is rather an all-encompassing thing. I always refused not to know other music and I don`t separate styles - I just hear good music. I am all for mixing music genres to create something new. You have performed all over the world. Why do you always come back to Vienna? Well, this is my homeland. Here, I have my friends, my life and all the places where I drink my favourite coffees (laugh). I can just say - there is no place like home! After many years, your father decided to write about his experiences during the Second World War and the murder of his family during the reign of the Third Reich. Are you worried that the world will forget where xenophobia can lead? No, because there will always be people who do not want to forget the greatest crimes in human history, including me.

I can`t really answer this question since it is beyond my imagination to play any other instrument (laugh). What is the one thing you wish for your homeland Austria? I wish Austria was a stable democracy, a cosmopolitan society and I wish that it gains a greater understanding of multicultural developments. Where do you get the inspiration for your music? From my personal impressions, experiences, paintings, literature and people. Where does your interest in combining different styles of music come from?

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Interview // Jon-Eric Hegemann Photography // Stefan Kokovic

“I WANT TO BE REMEMBERED FOR MY MUSIC”

Harri Stojka 97

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