Contents: 13 Foreword by Robert Cockcroft. 18 dishes. 218 Mains dishes. 282 Dessert dishes. 332 pantry. 388 Index. 394 Postscript by Stephen
Introduction. 56 Seasons. 144 Suppliers. 170 Starter Cheese counter. 354 Drinks cabinet. 368 Chef’s Pern. 397 Acknowledgements. 398 The last bit.
Another striking aspect, one which was to anticipate trends, was the extensive use of local seasonal produce, for reasons of freshness, consistency, interest and that element of character which the French revere as terroir. The network of suppliers that Andrew has nurtured over a decade reflects not merely a profound appreciation for food, and its place in the scheme of things, but his own roots on the North York Moors. While some restaurants are happy to fly in ever more exotic foodstuffs from long-haul destinations to please novelty-hungry customers, he and his chefs are more inclined to head for the hedgerows to pick baby nettles, or the woods to harvest wild garlic. To a farmer’s son, sustainability comes as a natural concept. Restaurants now come and go with unprecedented speed. Some in rural areas go very quickly indeed if they fail to establish some point of difference or fail to please. It was clear from the start that The Star had the legs for the long race. It is no surprise that it thrives and that its philosophy remains little changed; no surprise, either, that it won and retains a Michelin star to echo its prescient title. The business is bigger now and it is possible to enjoy its dishes in several places other than the small dining room or the evocative, stoop-or-you’llcrack-your-head bar; but the kitchen with its stained glass remains at the heart of things and local produce remains at the heart of that. And at the heart of it all remain the industrious visionaries behind it, Andrew and Jacquie. And so are stars, and institutions, born.
Now in late May and early June, the bouncy umbrellas of fragrant elderflower can be smelt and picked from the sides of the lanes. Rich in pollen, full of sun, the creamy laceheads are perfect for making cordials and jellies to partner the succulent Sand Hutton strawberries with their muscatty aroma. Though be warned, if left too late, it will turn out to a more “tomcatty� scent; as the leaves start to turn brown, the perfume of cat pee prevails.
Grilled black pudding with pan-fried salad of pickering watercress, apple chutney, scrumpy reduction.
foie gras, & vanilla
Starter - Serves one Preparation Time: 20 minutes Cooking Time: 10 minutes
Grille d b l a c k p u d d i ng with pa n - f r i e d f o i e gras, s a l a d o f p i c k e r i ng water c r e s s , a p p l e & vanill a c h u t n e y, scrum p y r e d u c t i o n .
The Star’s No.1 bestseller. This dish is easily the most popular, remaining on the menu for at least the last nine years. It has been eaten by Lords, Ladies, famous actors, famous foodies, famous artists (aka Caine, Ronay and Hockney) as well as the locals alike. Very much a rich man, poor man dish. Using the North Country staple of black pudding with the luxurious pan-fried foie gras, teamed with the apples and peppery Pickering watercress. Perfect!
10g of washed and trimmed watercress salt & pepper knob of butter apple & vanilla chutney sprigs of chevril for garnish 2 slices black pudding 1 slice caramelised apple 1 decent slice of duck or goose foie gras scrumpy reduction - made with apple juice and a splash of cider vinegar. a dash of house vinaigrette for the apple & vanilla chutney 1 kilo Granny Smith apples with skin, ½ - 1cm diced 3 medium shallots finely diced 200ml cider vinegar (or white wine if you wish) 1 fresh vanilla pod - split and de-seeded 400g caster sugar pinch of salt
Place five small piles of apple chutney at intervals around the plate; garnish each pile with a sprig of herb. In the centre of the plate dress a few seasoned watercress leaves to form a little “salad”. Drizzle the reduction around the side of the plate. Lightly brush the slices of black pudding with melted butter and grill for 3 - 4 minutes. Whilst this is cooking heat a frying pan and pan-fry the foie gras for 1½ minutes each side. When cooked, stack alternatively; black pudding, foie gras, black pudding. Top with the slice of caramelised apple. Serve immediately. Apple & vanilla chutney Place everything into an ample sized thick-bottomed pan. Reduce down until thickened and starting to caramelise. Cool down and tub up ready for using. Keep in a cool place. N.B. Place the vanilla pod into the pan with everything else to maximise the flavour.
Starter - Serves two Preparation Time: 20 minutes Cooking Time: 10 minutes
This “dish”, if you can call it that, is a bit of fun, one that we’ll use on my Chef’s Table. It’s great to see people’s faces as you present them with a smoke-filled kilner jar and when it’s opened the air is filled with the scent of “flavoured” smoke – always a great talking point and, even better, when you can eat it!
“ Whisky in a Jar” Using a cured organic, or preferably wild, salmon, place slivers into a kilner jar with a little zest of lemon, some sprigs of fresh rosemary and a few slices of shallot, a sprinkle of malt whisky of your choice, and mix thoroughly. Sprinkle over a little cracked black pepper, leave to marinade for 5 to 10 minutes, then light the bong! The bong, or smoking gun as it is known, is filled with shavings of malt whisky barrel shavings, then lit and a mechanical fan makes the smoke which then flows down a pipe into the kilner jar, where it is then trapped. This in turn lightly cures the salmon, or whatever fish you prefer. A great visual dish, that should be served with a good rye bread. 8 salmon slivers 1 sliced shallot zest of ½ lemon a capful of malt whisky cracked black pepper a cupful of whisky barrel shavings rye bread and lemon to accompany
Starter - Serves two Preparation Time: 45 minutes Cooking Time: 20 minutes
This is a completely over-the-top starter for our little 14th century thatched pub, but it is served for our private dining guests across the road at Cross House Lodge, or on special occasions. One such occasion was the 20th June 2006 when, on the day of our tenth anniversary, we hosted a “Proper Lunch” of chefs, suppliers and restaurateurs. This dish kicked off proceedings as the first of eight courses. Due to the amount of courses, and possibly the volume of wine, the “Proper Lunch” went on long into the night with all sorts of fun and games, which included arm wrestling with Alan Hodgson our fish merchant (his speciality apparently - needless to say he won!), boules in the car park and so on. Sal ad o f N o r t h Se a Lobst e r w i t h Sa n d Hut to n A s pa r ag u s , “M oll e t ” V i l l ag e Quail Eggs . G a r d e n Lova ge M ay o n n a i s e , B elug a C av i a r 1 boiled and split native lobster approx 450-500g & cooked for 12 minutes 6 thin spears of local asparagus trimmed and pared 6 quail eggs 5g beluga caviar - optional garden herbs - a selection of seasonal for the mayonnaise 2 egg yolk 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 100ml virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar seasoning, sea salt 5g chopped lovage for the dressing 10ml olive oil chopped dill juice of 1/2 lime
Clean and prep the lobster, remove the tail meat, slice into five or so thin slices place back into the tail shell upside down so it shows the red side of the flesh. The head and claw meat can be used on another dish or for a big portion. The mayonnaise can be prepped at this stage; this will keep refrigerated for 1-2 weeks. Cook the quail eggs and the asparagus in separate pans of boiling salted water for 2 minutes each, then refresh both in iced cold water to stop the cooking process. Trim the asparagus if required, peel the eggs very gently, keep cool. Mix together the light dressing. Next, arrange the dish onto a suitable plate. Place the tail at one end and spoon over a little of the dressing. Lightly roll the asparagus spears also in the dressing, to give them flavour and shine, fan these onto the plate coming from the lobster. Place a quail egg in between, trim the bottom if required to help them stand up. Span a little caviar at the top of the plate, arrange some light garden herbs around to fill in the gaps, at the last minute when ready to send out, finally sprinkle a little sea salt onto the lobster and asparagus, and with the aid of a piping bag or squeezy bottle, squirt some of the mayonnaise onto the top of the eggs and into and around the lobster tail. Serve immediately.
Starter - One terrine, approximately 10 slices Preparation Time: 24 hours in advance, 3 hours Cooking Time: 10 minutes
A play on the pub grub classic gammon, egg and pineapple. Pressed Ham Knuckle Terrine, a gently fried quail egg perched on top with a rich golden chutney spooned around is again another firm favourite on The Star Inn menu. Great for dinner parties.
PRESSED TERRINE OF YORKSHIRE G AMMON WITH FRIED LEDSTONE Q UAIL EG G , SPICED PINEAPPLE PICKLE , MUSTARD SEED DRESSIN G 3 ham knuckles 6 bay leaves 1 large onion chopped in half 2 peeled carrots 6 whole cloves 6 black peppercorns 50g mixed leaves & herbs 20g finely chopped flat parsley 1 quail egg per portion a drop of olive oil spiced pineapple pickle (see recipe below) 20ml grain mustard vinaigrette 6-8 slices York ham 2 slices soaked leaf gelatine ground mixed spice for the spiced pineapple pickle 1 pineapple, skinned cored and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon grain mustard 3 tablespoon white wine vinegar pinch saffron strands 150g demerara sugar pinch of salt
Place the ham knuckles, bay leaves, onion, carrots, cloves and peppercorns in a deep pan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil and simmer for 21/2 - 3 hours until tender While the ham knuckles are cooking, line a terrine mould with cling film, then with thin slices of York Ham. Once the hams are cooked, remove from the pan, leave to cool slightly, then, while warm, remove the meat from the bone. Place in a small bowl with the shallots, seasoning and flat parsley. Mix and combine thoroughly, then pack into the terrine mould. Ladle 500ml of the ham stock into a pan, check it is not too salty (if so, dilute stock with water, before taking the 500ml). Warm it gently before adding the gelatine, pour liquid over the ham into the terrine. Overlap the edges of York Ham to cover the ham pieces. Cover with cling film. The terrine needs to be quite solid and ‘packed’. Place in a fridge with a uniform weight on top for even pressing. Leave overnight. Spiced pineapple pickle To make the pickle, put all the ingredients into a heavy bottomed pan, stir in a pinch of salt and simmer gently for about 11/2 hours until a golden yellow colour. When at the right consistency, spoon into an airtight jar. Leave to cool, then seal the jar. This can be made in advance and will keep for 3 - 4 weeks. To present the dish, turn out the terrine, unwrap the cling film, then with a sharp knife slice approx. 2cm thick and place in the centre of a cold dinner plate. Shallow-fry the quails’ egg in a little olive oil. Spoon three piles of pickle at intervals around the terrine with a little leaf garnish again at intervals between them. Place the egg on top, grind a little black pepper on top, then drizzle the mustard seed dressing around. Serve immediately.
Grilled Fillet of John Dory with a Risot to of B road B eans and Lova ge, Summer Truffle Juices, Garlic Roast Snails
Main dish - Serves two Preparation Time: 30 minutes Cooking Time: 15 minutes
Grille d F i l l e t o f J o h n D ory w i t h a Ri s o t t o o f B road Be a n s a n d Lo vage , S umm e r Tr u f f l e J u i c e s , Garli c - R o a s t S n a i l s 2 x 160g John Dory fillets 6 snails, cooked and prepared in the shell 100g butter 1 clove garlic 75g risotto rice 6g summer truffle 50g shelled broad beans 500ml fish stock 50g shallots, diced 5g lovage, shredded 100ml reduced veal stock 50ml whipping cream ½ lemon seasoning
Also known as St Peter’s fish because of the two black thumbprints on its sides – think feeding the five thousand, bread and fish, and St Peter doing his stuff. The fillets of this highly regarded and much soughtafter fish are capable of taking big, strong flavours, such as the lovage and the garlic roast snails. The ideal time, if you can get the timing right, would be to use the last of the wild garlic leaves, when the first of the broad beans are coming into season, although as with this recipe, fresh peeled garlic can of course be used. We get our snails from L’Escargot Anglais based in Hereford, which come prepared to save any hassle. Firstly soften 50g of butter, add 1 clove of garlic and a little chopped lovage. Stuff the snail shells full of the garlic butter and set aside for roasting. In a heavy-based saucepan, soften the diced shallots in 50g of butter, add the risotto rice and gradually add the fish stock, keep stirring at all times. Finely chop the summer truffle, add to the veal jus. Season the fillets of John Dory and squeeze over the juice of half a lemon, grill for about 3 to 4 minutes. Roast the snails in a preheated oven at 180°C/gas mark 4 for 6 minutes, blanch the broad beans and add to the risotto, along with the shredded lovage, and season. To serve, warm the veal jus. Spoon the risotto onto the plate, place the John Dory fillet on the top. Place 3 snails around the outside of the John Dory, drizzle round some of the truffle juices, garnish with some shavings of summer truffle and spoon the warm veal jus around the plate. Serve immediately.
The classic! A dessert we started with on our first menu, the idea of which stemmed from Marco Pierre White’s ‘White Heat’ book. Simple and clean-tasting, it instantly became a hit in our early days and is still, of course, a hit to the present day. Lemon tart Place all the ingredients into a large mixing bowl and blitz with a hand-held blender. Allow to settle. Skim off aerated bubbles or lightly blow torch to ‘pop’. Strain through a fine sieve.
Fresh Le m o n Ta r t with S a u c e o f B e r r i e s Dessert - Serves sixteen (1 x 30cm deep tart case) Preparation Time: 1 hour Cooking Time: 11/2 hours
for the lemon tart 18 eggs 500ml whipping cream 10 lemons, juiced and zested. 800g sugar for the sweet pastry 250g plain flour 100g caster sugar 100g chilled butter pinch of salt 1 egg for the sauce of berries 300g raspberries 100g blackberries juice of ½ lemon 125ml stock syrup for the stock syrup (Makes about 500ml) 300g caster sugar 200ml cold water 30g liquid glucose
Sweet pastry Sieve the dry ingredients and rub in the butter until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the egg and work it into the dough until soft and pliable, add a little water if necessary. Roll the pastry out to about 2½ mm thick. Roll gently around your rolling pin and roll back out into a greased tart case. Work the dough into the case, making sure that all the inside pastry is pushed into all the curves. Chill in the fridge for 20 minutes. Double-bake the dough, starting by placing some parchment into the pastry case and filling with baking beans. Bake until the edges are starting to colour very slightly. Remove from the oven and remove the beans and parchment. The tart case should then go back into the oven until the base of the pastry is cooked lightly and dried out. When it comes out, brush the case with a little egg white to prevent any leakage. Fill the cooked pastry case with the mixture until no more liquid can go in and then bake in the oven at 90°C/gas mark ½ for 1 hour and 30 minutes. Allow to cool slightly. To serve, portion, if required, sprinkle with caster sugar and use a blowtorch or grill to caramelise until golden brown. Sauce of berries Blitz together in a blender for about 1 minute, pass through a sieve to remove seeds and use as required. Stock syrup Mix together, slowly bring to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Skim off any impurities, sieve and leave to cool. Use as required.
F re s h Va n i l l a “Po t ” wit h C o m p ô t e o f M ount St J o h n Bl a c k c u r rants
Dessert - Serves four Preparation Time: 1 hour Cooking Time: 1 hour
for the vanilla pot 1 litre whipping cream 110g caster sugar 12 egg yolks 2 vanilla pods 5ml vanilla essence for the compôte of blackcurrants 200g blackcurrants 80g sugar 25ml cassis
This is a lovely, simple summer pudding, great for a long, lazy lunch as it can all be made beforehand. The creamy, white custard, speckled with fresh vanilla seeds and the sharp, jammy compôte of warmed blackcurrants spooned on the top is delicious, when eaten together, as you receive a bit of each, which is a lovely contrast of almost sweet and sour. Great colours too! Vanilla pot Split the vanilla pods lengthways, scrape all the seeds out and place in a pan with the cream and vanilla essence. Heat gently on the stove top. Mix the sugar and the egg yolks. When the cream has warmed, pour a little into the egg, then pour all the egg back into the cream. Mix thoroughly, strain the mixture and then pour into little pots enough to serve one, and bake in a bain-marie at 110°C/gas mark ½ for 50 minutes until just set or slightly wobbly in the centre. Use as required. Compôte of blackcurrants Place all ingredients in a pan, and heat until the sugar has melted. The fruit should be whole and not broken down.
SPECIFICATIONS: Title: Black Pudding & Foie Gras Author: Andrew Pern Isbn: 978-0955893001 Format: Hardback Dimensions: 210mm x 297mm Extent: 400 pages Illustrations: 225+ RRP: ÂŁ39.99 Publisher: Face Release Date: May 2008
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