Redefining the Sport with Resiliency World Champion Rock Climber, Sasha DiGiulian

by Penelope Jean Hayes

Professional rock climber Sasha DiGiulian is a World Champion, undefeated Pan American Champion, and three-time U.S. National Champion. Outdoors, DiGiulian is the first North American woman and third woman ever to climb the grade 9a, 5.14d, one of the hardest sport climbs achieved by a female. DiGiulian studied nonfiction writing and business, and graduated from Columbia University in New York City. In addition to climbing, DiGiulian writes a column for Outside Magazine, and she has also been published in National Geographic, Rock and Ice, SELF, Seventeen, and CRAVE

Sasha believes that the power of sport can connect communities and ultimately play a positive role in affecting change in the world we share. She uses her platform for advocacy and conservation efforts to protect public lands, native communities, and the environment, and to promote the importance of eco-tourism and sustainability.

Your last name (if read and not pronounced) says you gotta, “DiG!” Where did your inner drive and gumption initially come from?

I’ve never heard that before. I love it. I think that my drive from an early age came from being ruthlessly competitive with my older brother, Charlie. He was better than me at just about everything…except climbing.

Climbing provides an interesting dichotomy. On its face, it’s just you and the rock, but it’s also a team sport. It’s about being ultra-present, and yet also meditative; or at least contemplative. The goal is holding on, yet is it an exercise in letting go?

Some of my best performances in climbing have been when I’ve found that balance between caring a lot about pushing myself, but also letting go, being on the wall and letting my subconscious do the work. That flow state is what we all strive to find in optimal performance.

Yes; some of my best performances in climbing have been when I’ve found that balance between caring a lot about pushing myself, but also letting go, being on the wall and letting my subconscious do the work. That flow state is what we all strive to find in optimal performance. And, climbing is a partner sport as well. When I’m climbing a wall, it’s me and my partner—there’s an immense amount of trust and communication that goes into this dynamic. But then, when I take the lead, it’s me, the rock, and the sequences in front of me.

Letting go is also learned through a different kind of challenge.You underwent double reconstruction hip surgery, learned to walk again, and to eventually climb again. Certainly, you are an inspiration. As a result of this leg of your journey, what is your message to share with others who might be struggling to get back up again?

Taking nine months off of climbing and undergoing five surgeries—two of which were open hip surgeries that were each approximately tenhours long in which my pelvic bone was broken into four separate pieces and then held together by steel screws—was something I had no experience going into. I had never had surgery before, and I had never taken that amount of time off of climbing in the twenty-plus years that I have been a part of this sport. But, I controlled what I could control, and wavvvvs open to the experience. I knew it was going to be extremely mentally and physically challenging, and I had to be okay with this. But, I also showed up to every physical therapy appointment and did everything my team told me to do in order to catalyze my recovery. I became really clean with my nutrition, and focused my efforts on the variables that I could control in order to maximize the efficacy of my recovery, and reduce my time off from doing what I love. I also leaned into finding new purposes in life, leaned into my support system, and worked on finding kindness to myself in the stillness, which was a really foreign concept. Typically, if I’m not at least moderately active every day, my brain feels like it’s “melting”. I had many days of total inability to move during this process.

Your outer and inner strength is a true wonder. To pick one song that speaks to you today, what would your anthem be—what gets you pumped up?

I am a really big Taylor Swift fan. I listen to a lot of different genres of music by a myriad of artists, but I would say that if I were to choose one anthem right now, it may be “Anti-Hero”—it’s just really speaking to me. I’ve cut against the grain in many ways in my sport: I’ve faced criticism for being too feminine and for being career-oriented while also an athlete. I’ve been called a “sellout” for signing with big companies when I became Adidas’ first outdoor athlete in North America when I was eighteen. I’ve also faced simple critiques for wearing makeup and jewelry, going to red carpet galas, even making room for college amidst my professional athletic career (that was “new” in my sport to do). As I’ve grown up in the limelight of the climbing world, I’ve certainly made mistakes, but I’ve learned a lot about myself and who I am, what I stand for, and what I don’t stand for. I feel confident in my ethos and what guides me, and I feel grateful for the community I have built. I hope that my career has inspired the generation of young girls and boys that have followed to feel comfortable in her, his, and their skin, too. I wasn’t always comfortable in my own skin, but I always tried to be. Now, I am comfortable and proud of who I am, and I am excited to continue to grow, learn, and become better.

I turn internally for my career, though—while recognition is incredibly fueling and makes me feel extrinsically appreciated, my main goals, motivation, and passion are fueled by my intrinsic desires to be the best I can be and by my curiosity to continue to grow and find out what that looks like.

Well said. And, congratulations on being featured by Oprah on Super Soul Sunday’s “Breathing Space”. What a milestone! We hear about the “Oprah Effect,” what has this meant to you and for your career?

Hearing Oprah say my name certainly had a profound impact on my confidence, (haha)! But climbing has been growing into this more mainstream space and it just makes me excited to see the sport gain more traction and become more inclusive. I turn internally for my career, though—while recognition is incredibly fueling and makes me feel extrinsically appreciated, my main goals, motivation, and passion are fueled by my intrinsic desires to be the best I can be and by my curiosity to continue to grow and find out what that looks like.

Speaking of growth…plantbased, mushroom-rich, datekissed, greens, and nutrient rich—we’re lovin’ your SEND protein and energy bars. What’s the next business (or distribution) goal for the brand?

I am so proud of launching SEND Bars just over one year ago. The response has been really incredible, and my next goals in the business are to expand our line of products, reach more specialty retailers, and eventually have the brand capacity to exist in larger grocers as well. We are a premium bar company made of all whole food and a product that has filled the void of what I could not find on the market. I started making my own bars over ten years ago, and I actually secured the name Send Bars in 2012 because it was always an aspiration of mine to launch this company. But I do believe there’s timing to life, and I am glad that it is now! I had the time and space in my life to really thoroughly build out the concept and the team during my hip surgeries. ymore info: www.sashadigiulian.com

Whether or not tied to climbing (pun intended), what are three dream-maker experiences on your bucket list?

That’s a lofty question. I have so many dreams and aspirations: from my climbing career, to my book Take the Lead which comes out September 26, 2023, to my company. I would love to do a climb on every continent. I do also have this big, audacious goal to establish a first ascent on a particular mountain that I’m not going to announce right now. I dream about growing Send Bars to be available internationally, and I would love to be a better activist for the climate.

Yes, let’s talk about your advocacy projects in protecting public lands. What can each reader of Face the Current do to help the mission?

I think that protecting public lands and advocating for climate policy can be approached at the individual as well as local level. Recently, I had the privilege to be on a panel with Madame Vice President Kamala Harris, as well as Colorado Representative Brittany Petterson to discuss this topic. And I would say that we can all do our part to work towards being better stewards in our personal lives, but also reaching out to our local officials, educating ourselves on what is going on with policy, and using our platforms to stand behind what we believe in—that’s a good start.

IG: @sashadigiulian