ISSUE 1: The Introduction

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FACTION

the

Introduction


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THE INTRODUCTION

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ix months ago I never imagined finally being able to sit down to write this letter. I’m currently sat with my features editor putting the final touches on this issue. For our first issue, we’re all about introductions. An introduction to the world of FACTION is the first thing we present you with. We’ve been slogging away at our computer screens, scouring the internet, the streets and the social cosmos to bring you the best of cutting edge fashion, beauty and socio-economic enlightenment. Our spotlight section contains a breath of fresh air, interviews with artists from the southwest provide an insight into the fantastic art scene we have right on our doorstep whilst our trend section will make sure your noticed this summer season. I hope you enjoy FACTION as much as we have enjoyed making it and now its time for us to start on issue 2. Wish us luck! And enjoy. Editor in Cheif - Mike Raven


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INSIDE: F

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BL33N SS12 TRENDS FETISHISM IN FASHION DREW TURNER TOU-CHE I HAVE A DREAM RULE BRITANNIA LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN BURBERRY 2012 COLLABORATIONS E

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COYOTE by Rosie Kliskey NEON by Matt Sheather THE CHANGING ROOM by Mike Raven S

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FACTION INTRODUCING : - NICK WHITE - FOXY - OLIVER ALEXANDER JONES - DEAD POETS - BEN ASLETT - TOM CARTER - PABLO JONES SOLER - LOUISE HONEY - PHILIP H8ARRIS

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MINERVA STREETWEAR PLACES TO GO THINGS TO SEE B

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IDENTITY GLOSSYBOX ILLAMASQUA BULLDOG BEAUTY TRENDS

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VOL:I / ISSUEI Editor-In-Cheif: MIKE RAVEN Beauty Editor: MATTHEW SHEATHER Features Editor: GEORGIA BEY Cover images by Mike Raven www.mike-raven.co.uk CONTRIBUTORS: Lee Ewings, Grace Sullivan, Westward Bound, Rosie Kliskey, Nick White, Foxy, Oliver Alexander Jones, Dead Poets, Pablo Jones-Soler, Louise Honey, Philip Harris, Drew Turner, Jay Bing, Haydn Williams, Tou-Che, Minerva, CMYK Gallery, PCA Fashion, Jess Connelly, Ben Aslett All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without permission from the Editor. The views expressed in FACTION Magazine are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

Follow us on Twitter @FactionMag Read Our Blog on www.FactionMag.co.uk Find us on Facebook WWW.FACEBOOK.CO.UK/FACTIONMAGAZINE

Marketing/Press enquiries and comments please email: Contact@FactionMag.co.uk Submissions of work; Please send low resolution images and examples of writing to: Contribute@FactionMag.co.uk

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Not just another graphic tee, maybe somewhere between blue and green.....

BL33N Turning the concept of the t-shirt inside out, this innovative luxury brand, created by Donovan and Matthias VriensMcgrath, challenges the boundaries of the fashion. You will never look at a plain white t-shirt the same way again. www.bl33n.com Photography: Mike Raven Model: Hayd Williams


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What is bl33n? imagine:discovering something you always thought was,is actually something entirely different...

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WHY BL33N? JUST HAD TO SCRATCH THE ITCH Are you bl33n? Find out


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WHY B Because that fRe expr yoursel thought sexuali love is


BL33N? we feel eedom to ress lf,your ts,your ty,your s cool.

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Photograph: JAY BING

www.jaybing.co.uk


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introwe’re alk , y a w catw on its season ight from the e. r e m r ’s sum ds stra the gam his yea hottest tren et ahead of t h t i W e g 6 of th gals to ducing ou guys and for y


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- BooH Top £1 5

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£8 - PRIM Aztec Vest

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Necklace £5 - Prim

Imagery courtesy of: TOPSHOP, RIVER ISLAND, PRIMARK, BOOHOO.COM, ASOS, MISS SELFRIDGE, BURTON, TOPMAN, HOUSE OF FRASER, URBAN OUTFITTERS

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estern inspiration is everywhere for summer, with Aztec and Native American Navajo inspired prints popping up all over the high street. Perfect for festivals, studs, fringing and denim are perfect accents for this trend, and layering works well too. Team Primark’s flag shorts with the Sophia top from Boohoo.com to nail a simple take on this Cowboy vs. Indian trend.

Leather

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TRENDSmen

Hugo Boss Bag £85 - House of Fraser

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Jumper £45 - Urban Outfitters

SPORTY O

Sleevless Hoodie - Topman

ne returning trend that’s always more than welcome to make an appearance when summer hits is sportswear. Whether it be the tailored trackpants or a pair of high tops. This season try mixing pattern into your relaxed attire. Yohji Yammamoto for Adidas Y-3 mixed plaids and check into his SS12 pallette for a softer more stylised sillhouette.

Track Jumper £28 - Burton

Hoodie £25 - Burton


tters Urban Outfi

- H&M Shorts £14.99

TRENDSwomen

Bikini £28 -

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RETRO PRINTS

T

- Primark

here are a myriad of prints to choose from this season. Why not try a Prada-inspired hotrod print, or a Givenchy-esque scarf print like the H&M shorts pictured above? Tropical prints are a strong, bold look, but if you’re not feeling brave enough to try a top-to-toe ensemble, choose statement accessories to get in touch with your Hawaiian side!

Print Dress £49.99 - H&M

Floral Print B

louse £6 - Pri

mark

Island Playsuit £5 Imagery courtesy of: H&M, URBAN OUTFITTERS, RIVER ISLAND, PRIMARK, BOOHOO.COM, ASOS, MISS SELFRIDGE, HOUSE OF FRASER, DEBENHAMS

Print Shirt - £50 - Miss Selfridge

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PRINTS A

look sure to get heads turning your way this summer is prints. The catwalks were adorned with bold textures and patterns. Retro character print shirts and floral trousers graced us at Prada and Aztec and paisley at TOPMAN LTD. Bottega Veneta showed us that prints don’t have to match and Givenchy gave us digital, natured inspired prints on their suits. Try a mix of prints for an individual look or if that’s too much for you stick to a printed accessory to accent your outfit.

Shorts -

ASOS

rt Prin

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Lacoste Sand Printed Shorts £115 - House of Fraser

ASO

S

T-shirt - Topman


TRENDSwomen

PASTELS

£75 Dress Rose

9 - H&M 2.9 Vest £1

Imagery courtesy of: ASOS, PRIMARK, MONSOON, MISS SELFRIDGE, RIVER ISLAND, CREW, MATALAN, HOUSE OF FRASER, OFFICE,

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irlishness is something to be embraced and wildly celebrated this season. Pastels were all over the catwalk in all of their sorbet-coloured glory in every possible guise. From grown up Jackie O style dresses at Marni, to the layered minimalist look at 3.1 Philip Lim. As for highstreet, there is no shortage of pastel delights; go all out girly with this rose dress from Monsoon, or layer up pastel seperates for a fashion-forward look.

Mons oo

Rose Pink

Shorts £25

- River Isla nd

Sh

OS

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Blouse £19.99 - H&M

oes

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Blue Chino Shorts £9 - Primark


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TRENDSmen

Jacket - River Island

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tand out this summer, the coloured suit has made a come back with a shocking tonal annoucement. Donatella turned up the volume at the Versace Spring/Summer show with electric blue, orange and pink. There will be no shortage of brights on the highstreet this season from orange fisherman jackets at H&M to a 90’s throwback Kelly Kapowski tshirt featuring a rather loud neon pink at urban outfitters. Try layering different colour tones for a fresh take on last years colour blocking or if you don’t want to stand out too much pick a great statement piece to make your outfit pop.

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Red P

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Shirt

£55 -

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Outfit

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Belt £35 - House of Fraser

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Imagery courtesy of: H&M, RIVER ISLAND, ASOS, HOUSE OF FRASER, URBAN OUTFITTERS, PRIMARK, AUSTIN REED

esigners took off on a flight of fantasy this season, taking a dip in the ocean for inspiration. Blues, greens and corals are the colours of choice for this trend, and don’t skimp on the sequins! Go full on mermaidian with this sequin dress from ASOS (pictured right), or opt for a splash of on-trend colour with the H&M tuxedo shorts (left). Channel your inner Ariel and ride the wave of Spring/Summer fashion in aquatic style.


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Scotch and So da Jack et £165

Shoe

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Chinos £85 - Austin Reed

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Prima

RELAXED TAILORING

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e’re going back a few eras for this seasons twist on tailoring. Dries Van Noten, Comme Des Garcons and Versace provided their men with a new silhouette, draping them in boxy suit jackets and wide legged, tailored trousers. A longer suit jacket will provide you with an ontrend 80’s throwback look.

s tter utfi nO -U rba £85 ket Jac

Shorts £19 .9

9 - H&M

Jacket £249 - Austin Reed

There was an African outback feel at Yves Saint Laurant this season, exuding luxury safari in washed out colours and classic camel. Try mixing an oversized double breasted suit jacket with a pair of wide leg chinos for your own Yves Saint Laurent inspried look.

Shirt £10 - Primark


TRENDSwomen

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£5

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Cropped T-shirt £18 - Topshop

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5 - Primark

ith the Olympics fast-approaching, put your best foot forward and be seen in one of the seasons biggest trends – sportswear. Everyone from Christopher Kane to Nicole Farhi long-jumped onto the sporty bandwagon. Farhi showed her vision of futuristic sportswear, in the form of bright leotards under boxy neoprene jackets, if this is too much for you, try sporty touches like the River Island trainers pictured above.

Leggins £1

Imagery courtesy of: TOPSHOP, RIVER ISLAND, PRIMARK, MISS SELFRIDGE, WALLIS, SCHUH, OFFICE, BURTON, DEBENHAMS, REPUBLIC, URBAN OUTFITTERS

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Neon

70 ues £


TRENDSmen

T-shirt £20 - Republic

Maine Shorts £18 - Debenhams

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WHITE F

resh, clean and it goes with everything, make white your new colour for the summer, (just try not to get it too dirty!). Dirk Bikkembergs showed us a luxe sports inspired twist on the tracksuit mixing leather jackets with wide leg drawstring cotton trousers. While over at Calvin Klein Collection they showed us how to rock the all white suit. The main contender this season was most definitely Dior, an avant-garde inspired show mixing textures throughout with white oversized suits, crew neck Tshirts and of course any Dior show wouldn’t be complete without their signature style hat thrown in.

Shirt £26 - Burton

There is white everywhere this season, try mixing up your generic graphic tee with a super-cool monster tee from BL33N. Topman have a myriad of crisp white shirts to go under that all important white blazer.

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Lace Cape £29

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26

Vest £

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Skirt £

9.99 - H

- H&M

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Blouse £12.99

Imagery courtesy of: H&M, DOROTHY PERKINS, TOPSHOP, VERY, MATALAN, FRENCH CONNECTION, RIVER ISLAND, ASOS

Neon Jumpsuit £48 - Topshop

n fashion, few things really endure the test of time. One of the few things that has however, is lace. It comes back season after season in a new form. It can be virginal, or slutty, classy or trashy. This season lace can be whatever you want it to be, Sarah Burton showed haunting fish-like silhouettes heavy on lace for Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana, meanwhile, channelled Madonna circa the ‘Like a Virgin’ era. So, the decision is yours, how will you wear your lace this summer?

Dress £45 - Dorothy Perkins


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- Riv

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Fre nch C

Chinos - River Island

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TRENDSmen

INTO THE

BLUE

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ake blue your staple colour this summer. The runways were awash with aquatic freshness, The blue suit has made a dramatic comeback making an appearance at Giorgio Armani, Burberry, Viktor & Rolf and Lacoste, to name just a few. This season any shade goes, and the more contrast the better. Mix a dark navy trouser with an azure blue on top and throw in some coloured loafers and you’re on your way.

Distressed Jeans - ASOS


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IN FETISHISM

FASHION Words by GEORGIA BEY Photographs by MIKE RAVEN Fetish Products provided by Westward Bound www.westwardbound.com

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n obsession with fashion is tricky to keep under wraps; it’s not something that can be easily hidden. A simple shopping trip can turn into running wildly through your local shopping centre, limbs flailing, trying to find that illusive ‘it’ item – the one you’ve seen plastered all over blogs and magazines and the one that you just HAVE to have. The obsession slowly turns into fanatically telling your friends, family, hairdresser, strangers on the bus and anyone else who will listen (or pretend to) about how you finally found the shoes/ shirt/skirt you’ve been scouring eBay for for months. This irrational, excessive devotion can be described and defined as many things – but for the purpose of this article, we’ll call it a fetish.


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So when there are so many of us in the passionate throes of a fetishist relationship with fashion, it certainly doesn’t come as a surprise that fetishism has become a lynchpin of the industry. It is everywhere, from editorials to articles to the runway and beyond. As a major trend it rears its leather-clad head practically every other season, whether it’s in the obvious form of the gimp masks that Ricardo Tisci offered up in Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2011 menswear collection, or a more subtle form, like Topshop’s leather-sleeved trench coats, fetish fever is always lurking somewhere. Now, it is no secret that this is a tricky look to pull off unless you are a supermodel, or, in fact, a dominatrix, and there aren’t many comfortable or practical elements to it either. Take Alexander McQueen’s ‘Alligator’ shoes for example. They might be a favourite of Lady Gaga, but I can’t help thinking that you would need the pain threshold of, well, someone who has a very high tolerance for pain, to actually wear them for a prolonged period of time, and they are hardly suitable for any basic activities, like walking up and down stairs, running for a bus, or even standing up for very long. With all this in mind I have to ask, why is fetish fashion so prevalent, and why do we keep buying into it? Hugely complicated political and social factors play a key part in this story, that’s for sure. Fashion represents the mood of society arguably better than any other creative medium, so we can’t ignore the link between fetishism in fashion and the current political and economic bind that we are all in right now. For so long our culture has been dominated by excess, impatience and greed, it has finally come back to bite us on the collective ass, and we are now at the start of an era that will come to be defined by huge Government spending cuts, and a whole lot of belt tightening. Moderation, patience and discipline are not things that we, as a society, are used to practising, but everyone is going to be affected by Government cut-backs and we are going to have to learn to live differently. These three characteristics are at the heart of BDSM fetishism, and by embracing the severity of fetish in fashion, we get to feel like we are applying a certain self-control that sets us apart from everyone else. There is something strangely empowering about being restrained while everything around you is in chaos, and fetish-inspired fashion serves as a reminder of this. Fetish fashion fever will continue to reign supreme at the forefront of the fashion world, because, let’s face it, who doesn’t like to feel in control?


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DREW TURNER 32

Our features editor GEORGIA BEY talks to Devon-based local Designer and Illustrator DREW TURNER.


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orking across many disciplines, Drew Turner is a Plymouth boy done good. With a collaboration with Urban Outfitters in the bag, it seems like the world is his oyster, but he chooses to stick to his roots and continue to work from Plymouth. Turner has high hopes for the Plymouth art scene and it is safe to say that he will likely be a driving force behind it, with his interest in helping out his artist friends, and general sense of community spirit. He used to think that being creative wouldn’t get him a ‘proper job’, but it seems that a proper job is exactly what he’s doing.

installation. It was all very 80s inspired. I thought that making a magazine would be a good way to put it all together. FM: A lot of your work is based on animals, what interests you most about these furry creatures? DT: I like how they are so varied colourful and interesting. I also like / envy their simplicity. FM: Your website’s bio describes an exploration of the psyche surrounding the animal kingdom, how did this inspiration come about and can you explain a little bit more about it? DT: It is a bit of a wordy way of describing my work but what I’m trying to say is that we were once animals and now over time we seem to have almost separated ourselves from nature. I often look at animals with fascination and they can seem so aware it makes me wonder what they are thinking, if of course they are thinking at all. It makes them mysterious and I like that.

“I can see myself working more with moving image”

FM: Tell us, briefly, about your work: DT: As a freelancer I do a mixture of things but I guess it falls under two categories, art / illustration and then more commercial design work. The work featured on my website is my art and illustration or commissioned design pieces. I work a lot with animals and I enjoy type, photography, colour and shape. FM: How did you first become interested in graphic design and illustration? DT: Well, I have always been kind of creative but didn’t pursue it until I was about 21, it wasn’t until I realised that this was a career option that I actually took it seriously. Before then I was convinced that anything to do with art wasn’t a ‘proper job’ and so on. I liked the idea of doing something I really enjoy and getting paid to do it is a bonus.

FM: Your work uses a lot of mixed media techniques, what first inspired you to explore and use this method? DT: I started exploring this mixed media style in my 3rd year of Uni. I was making a magazine full of the things I liked and my work over the year. I was experimenting with lots of different ideas and started some mixed media illustrations when researching into demo scene, retro futurism and interactive

FM: You do a lot of freelance work, including commissions for Urban Outfitters, how did this come about? DT: Urban Outfitters commissioned me after seeing my work on a blog. They contacted me by email saying how they liked my work and wanted to know if I would be happy with them using it for T-shirts and wall art. Clearly I said yes. FM: Does your design process differ for every project or do you have a specific way of working each time? DT: Well that would depend entirely on the project and what I have to do. I guess I would always start off by drawing ideas down on paper first and then go off in whatever direction I need to go in. FM: What about for freelance vs personal projects, does your design process stay the same? DT: My own projects can take as much time as I need, but freelance work has deadlines and usually a

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brief so the design process would differ there. Again it depends on what the job involves.

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FM: You are a master of many design techniques, but if you could choose just one technique as your favourite what would it be? DT: I think I enjoy drawing the most, particularly in pen and ink but I take ages over it so unfortunately don’t do that much of it. I plan to though. FM: Do you have anything exciting coming up in 2012? DT: As well as more illustrative work, I am currently working on a short animation, I can see myself working more with moving image and this is pretty exciting for me. I am also going to be redesigning the Just Us website which should be released early 2012. FM: You are based in Plymouth, what keeps you in the South West rather than relocating to somewhere like London? DT: A mixture of things, the sea, the moors, woodland, people and living costs. I am however intending to move to London within the next year mainly to further my work and to see where it gets me. I have lived in Plymouth all my life and would like to try living somewhere else. FM: How do you feel about Plymouth/the South West’s art scene in general? DT: Small haha. There are things going on but it tends to be hard to find. The British art show saw some progress towards Plymouth being seen as a place of arts and culture but it is still very cliquey. I would like to see this change and for Plymouth to become more like Bristol in the way it considers the arts. FM: You are involved in collaborations with other local creatives, can you tell us a little bit about your past, present and possible future collaborations? DT: I haven’t actually collaborated a great deal. I did a small collaboration with Josh Greet at project space 11 involving 3D photography and I help friends out a little every now and again but I wouldn’t call it collaborating. I would definitely like to do something

more solid in the future. FM: You contribute to the Just Us design collective blog and are actively involved with the collective, can you tell us a little bit about the idea behind Just Us? DT: I was part of the collective in 2009 and now I am part of the alumni. The idea behind it is to give art students exposure and opportunities to show off their work online in galleries and be involved in an array of creative projects. There will be some big changes to the just us site in the New Year as I have been appointed the task of redesigning it! So things are moving forward there. FM: Why do you think it is so important for creatives to work together like this? DT: When you work with someone you bounce ideas off each other and can come up with things that you may not have come up with on your own. As well as coming out of your comfort zone and trying something different. It is also about networking. If you want to be freelance, you have to make yourself known. That doesn’t mean you have to be on the cover of creative review but you need to let people know what you do. FM: What do you enjoy most about working with other artists? DT: Working in a different way, when you work on your own you can get stuck in a routine, I get bored really easily and can go weeks without doing anything creative for myself. When I work with someone I get more excited about projects and can come up with unexpected things through being inspired by other people. FM: In the spirit of collaboration, are there any artists/musicians/etc that you would like to take the chance to introduce our readers to? DT: Maybe Jack Hudson, he is pretty great. Find out more about Drew on his website at: www.DrewTurner.co.uk


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BRANDS to know

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U E O H T C

d to n a h ’ ing ce ‘05 v i L n ‘ th si u o m

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nhappy with the idea of outsourcing, Jake Harris and Mike WIllacy took it upon themselves to learn the skills required to successfully screen-print, and after much experimentation and a few bad experiences with paint and dye fumes, Tou-Che was born. Since 2005, Tou-Che have been hand-producing t-shirts first from a tiny flat on Caledonian Road in North London, and now from a permanent studio setup on a farm in Newton Ferres, Devon. The whole process is as environmentally-friendly as possible, with eco issues at the heart of the brand’s ethos. All fabrics are totally organic and the whole operation is carbon neutral, with water-based inks being used for the print process. Being based on a south Devon farm, it doesn’t come as much of a surprise that the Tou-Che boys have taken the environment into consideration, but it is surprising that they seem to be a very rare breed in doing so. Environmental issues don’t often seem to factor

into the minds of either consumers or creators of streetwear, so it is definitely commendable that Tou-Che is so passionate, when they could have been cutting corners to boost their profits. To say that the Tou-Che team is small would be an understatement. Since the brand’s humble inception, Harris and Willacy have received a little help from their friends to produce and develop the Tou-Che product range. The brand remains intrinsically theirs, though, with the two founders having total control over every possible aspect from production to marketing. Even distribution is overseen by Willacy, who also works for Flatspot, the Devon-based skate shop that stocks the range online. This truly is a 100% local endeavour. Tou-Che recently expanded their range and began making unisex bags. The bags are produced inhouse, across their bases in Devon and North London, with the fabrics being carefully sourced to

ensure maximum quality. With all the bags being handmade, the quality of the workmanship went down well with fans, as the bags quickly sold out from Flatspot. com. The idea behind the bag was that they were ideal for country and city, based on the brand’s London/Devon connections, which is explored in the beautifully filmed promotional vid for the bags. As is the way with Tou-Che, the film was made by Jake Harris himself, and starred friends of the brand, in countryside and urban surroundings. To sum up Tou-Che is difficult; there are so many admirable aspects of the brand, from their environmental focus, to the fact that, at the base of it, the products are actually really well made, and that everything is kept as local as possible. Without a doubt, Tou-Che deserves to be celebrated and supported. www.Tou-Che.com www.Flatspot.com


BRANDS to know

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I HAVE

A DREAM Features Editor GEORGIA BEY has a dream that one day her utopian ideals and wildest fashion dreams will come true. Here she imparts her omniscience and explicates how it would better the masses.

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f you had one sartorial wish what would it be? Maybe you want kitten heels to disappear off the face of the earth forever, but, then again, who wouldn’t want that? Perhaps there is that one trend that ticks all of your style rules and you want it to stay in fashion for all eternity. Choosing one thing is pretty difficult for most people, I imagine, but I know exactly what I want. I wholeheartedly wish that it was socially acceptable to wear dressing gowns in public.

My number one passion in life is comfort. I love to be comfortable and I’m afraid that skinny jeans and wedges definitely do not fit the bill. Comfort is an element that is often lacking in fashion, and this saddens me to the point of despair. I cannot count the amount of times I have laid in bed of a morning wishing that I could just jump out, pull on a plush dressing gown and some fluffy slippers and go about my daily business. There are the obvious practical upsides to this, like the extra warmth and of course the blessed comfort. But allow me to paint a picture for you; you wake up in the morning and instead of spending 20-30 minutes having an extremely distressing mental breakdown over what to wear, you ease into your dressing gown, sashay over to the mirror and you can spend all that extra time beautifying yourself. You would never be late for appointments again; dressing yourself becomes a thing of joy rather than an agonising experience due to your lack of appropriate clothing. Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying there would be a ‘one dressing gown fits all’ rule when it comes to occasions. Wool-mix gowns for daytime are perfect, and maybe throw in a print or two for those days when you are feeling a bit more adventurous. And imagine how amazing a silk dressing gown or a kimono-style would be for more


formal events. You would be every inch the picture of elegance. The dressing gown is flattering on all body shapes, skimming over love handles and other unsightly lumps and bumps; a simple belt tie hides a multitude of sins, while looking effortlessly chic. Plus your chances of finding a mate would increase ten-fold because your face would look amazing due to all that extra time for make-up application in the mornings. I know I said ‘one wish’, but why would we limit ourselves to dressing gowns alone? Let’s throw pyjamas into the mix. Pyjamas have risen to the ranks of ‘legitimate fashion trend’ now, by some miracle. Loose fitting and more tailored pieces inspired by pyjama sets hit the fashion world hard in Spring/Summer 2011 and still continue to crop up on runways. While I appreciate this movement towards accepting pyjamas as daytime wear, I feel we need to make more strides into this relatively unknown style territory. ‘Pyjama-inspired’ is lovely and all, but it still doesn’t have that ultimate comfort factor that real pyjamas have, and that is what I’m really striving for. I think we have all had enough of the punishment of 8 inch heels and bodycon dresses; the time for revolution is now. Matching pyjama sets are classic, and could become a formal staple, and mismatched printed sets would be perfect for a more urban crowd. Silk pyjama shorts for summer are perfect; sensible and stylish. This new uniform would form a utopia, I’m certain of it. It is impossible to be angry or lose your temper while wearing ultra-comfy pyjamas. War would become a thing of the past, because, let’s face it, pyjamas are hardly appropriate for soldiers to wear in combat. The morale of workers would be boosted the world over – everyone knows that life is better when you are wearing pyjamas. Early mornings would be less of an issue for everyone, and I’m sure that public transport would be much more enjoyable, as long as you don’t get the belt of your dressing gown trapped in the doors of a bus or a train, of course.

Life would just be so much simpler, and I think you’ll all agree that simplicity is bliss. All hail King Dressing Gown.

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OTL

IG

T O P


GHTG

I L T


SPOTLIGHT - introducing

NICHOLAS 42

WHITE FM: Tell us a little about yourself and your work. NW: My name is Nicholas White; I am a 22-year-old photographer currently studying my degree at Plymouth College of Art. My personal work has been a gradual progression from commercial landscape photography, moving into thought out documentary studies of the landscape; primarily focussed around the way in which it has been militarised. Aesthetically speaking, the work relies heavily on the use of commercial landscape techniques, which when juxtaposed with the underlying narrative, result in a unique approach to standard documentary practice. FM: What first drew you to photography? NW: I have always been a creative person – my mother, father and brother are all involved in the music industry and I picked up the drums from a young age, having now played them for 14 years. I am also a huge lover of the outdoors, which is reflected in my current practice. I began taking photos on an old 35mm family camera, simply as a way of documenting my various climbs and hikes on Dartmoor. This idea of a visual diary really appealed to me – I wouldn’t have called myself a “photographer”, but the photos I created were certainly a large part of my life. This continued throughout my secondary-level studies – where I was studying Music and MusicTechnology A levels with the intention of progressing onto a music degree. My photography by this time was running parallel to my studies, and began taking it more seriously, photographing local bands and artists that I had networked with through my music. It was only once I passed my A-Levels that I decided that – as much as I enjoyed music – I would rather keep that as a hobby, fearing a degree would take the fun away. I decided to push my photography further, and enrolled onto a National Diploma at Exeter College (later transferring to Plymouth College of Art). FM: What inspires your photography? NW: I am constantly inspired by the outdoors. The landscape is constantly changing and challenges me as a climber, and a photographer. The isolation and freedom to create images in any weather and to be

challenged both physically and photographically gives me great satisfaction and never fails to influence my practice. In terms of other photographers, I’m continually discovering new artists whose work inspires me – however photographers such as Richard Misrach, Joe Cornish and Simon Norfolk are huge influences on my work. Norfolk’s ability to turn a dark, sinister narrative into an ironically beautiful landscape is a powerful tool, and one that needs to be embraced when documenting contemporary warfare. FM: Are you proud to be part of the Southwest art scene? NW: I am incredibly proud – whether I continue to create work exclusively in the South West is something I’m not sure about. FM: You only shoot in colour, do you have any that you prefer to use in your photographs? NW: That’s a difficult one! I don’t have a favourite colour – I’m more attracted to tones. Softer pastels like off-whites, creams and muted greens play a major part in my latest pieces – but it all depends on what I’m shooting. My last project for example, embraced vibrant purples and greens – because the work needed it. FM: What are your plans for 2012? NW: I am in the process of shooting another chapter for my Dartmoor Militarisation project, which is a study of Okehampton Battle Camp. I have applied for funding to continue developing this large project, and building separate chapters to the story. I have tonnes of ideas for how this can be developed, so it’s just a case of shooting each one – and seeing what works best. I also work as a commercial photographer, which helps to fund these projects – so I hope to continue building on my client base and making a steady income from my photography. FM: Describe yourself in 3 words: NW: Solitary, Inspired, and Directed FM: Describe your work in 3 words: NW: Researched, Technical, And Isolated FM: What advice would you give to people just starting out in your area of practice? NW: Networking. It’s your best friend. Also, whatever work you “enjoy” shooting, never turn your nose up at the more mundane jobs; weddings, commercial portraiture, press. This is the work that pays – and the money you make from that can be put


SPOTLIGHT - introducing

straight into your personal work. FM: Do you have any exhibitions coming up? NW: I have only recently finished exhibiting a couple of pieces from my latest project. At the moment I’m focussed on creating the work, and have no firm plans for exhibition. I have been approached by NPhoto magazine for a second time to publish some of my commercial landscape pieces, but that’s about it at the moment! FM: What do you love most about the South West? NW: We are incredibly lucky down here to have access to some of the most beautiful and eclectic landscape. A short drive from any city and one can find themselves on remote, bleak moorland – and in the same amount of time be on a sandy, picturesque beach. As a landscape photographer, it’s one of the

best places to be. There also seems to be a huge emphasis on the arts here – in other areas of the country, councils art funding has been cut drastically. Whether that’s happened here or not – I’m not sure, because everyone has so much passion for the arts in the South West I don’t think there’s ever going to be a danger of it dying. FM: Do you have any places you go to unwind? NW: Probably my bedroom. I also do most of my research and reading there – I also wedge the door shut so no-body can bother me! See Nick’s work on his website: www.nicholaswhitephotography.co.uk Imagery supplied by NICHOLAS WHITE

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FOXY SPOTLIGHT - introducing

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FM: As some of our readers might not know who you are or what you do why don’t you take this opportunity to introduce yourself. F: My name is Foxy and I run, own and sort of am AlienFox Designs. I specialise in headdresses and cranial adornment, but have recently turned out some full on actual costumes and accessories.

Each piece simultaneously embraces and defiles a tribal, primitive element and at the same time, an aesthetic of a more extraterrestrial nature. I am coming to the end of my first collection - The Revenge Project. There are three stages: Seance, Possession and finally Exorcism. For each part, I created costumes and used models to portray the scene, and each scene was then documented in a photoshoot. The scenes portrayed in The Revenge Project could come from anywhere between the year 1800 and the distant future; from a dining table in a mansion, to a dimension outside time and space entirely. FM: So your work goes beyond just head wear, you work with other mediums too, Does your work stem from personal experiences? F: I, as you might gather from reading the above, have my head firmly entrenched in storytelling and fantasy - but art can be used to show the naked, brutal truth. I love transformation; I love the raw, honest nature of the Aztecs respect for death, old gods, beauty and cactus juice; I get up every

morning and don’t stop at the end of the day until I am about to drop. I live by the maxim “Question Everything”. It has led me to where I am now and although my own personal journey is far too complex and, well, personal to put into a box right here, you can be assured that everything you see in my costumes and designs has its roots in what might at first be considered abnormal or abstract, but which actual goes down into the deep, dark primordial human psyche which we are all capable of tapping into. FM: Your work sounds somewhat complex. F: I’m glad that bit’s over, because I’m never sure how to respond without sounding like a megalomaniac. FM: When did your interest in creating start for you? F: The whole AlienFox Designs is very new. I’ve only had the studio since October 2011. If I ever have to find a perceptible beginning, it’s easier for me to say that it all began seriously last year, sometime in the middle of September, when I was considering running away to another country to go travelling for a year. Kitty Kane (fantastic burlesque dancer and businesswoman) phoned me up and said something like “Foxy, there’s a studio for rent in the same building as mine and you should definitely take it.” So I did and suddenly I had a place to work which was separate from my home, my garage became a garage again and my house no

longer has diamontes and feathers trampled into the carpet. That said, I had always been constructing *some* sort of costume at least one a month - primarily for myself to wear, because I could never find anything that hit the midway between ‘outlandish enough’ and ‘affordable’. FM: Have you always worn your own creations? F: By the time I was about fourteen I’d already been wearing make-up, which apparently is unusual for a boy and having decided this was not enough to match my aesthetics with how I felt inside, I experimented with hair dye and big high heels about the height of a small pair of bollards. When I got older, I decided that every item of clothing I wanted was too expensive to buy, so I started sewing feather boas into jackets, splattering shirts with coloured paint and wearing feathers in my hair. I’d say that’s where it started, because everything I make now is an extension of that. It’s probably a bad habit but if I could, I would wear any of my costumes any time, any day. It was using myself as an accidental walking advertisement that got the attention of a few people who began saying stuff like “Hey, how much could I pay for you make me one of those?” So, the short answer is: as soon as I realised there was demand for my eccentricity, AlienFox Designs began. FM: What are your main inspirations and influences?


SPOTLIGHT - introducing

F: Bla bla Alexander McQueen bla bla Thierry Mugler bla bla Lady Gaga. I get so fed up of ‘inspirations and influences’, but only for the simple reason that I am unable to pin down exactly what leads me to create a certain piece. It can be frustrating trying to make a list of all your favourite designers, because what are you admitting to? That you rip off ideas? I’m sure most ideas I have are flavoured by visual artists and designers somewhere along the line, and it doesn’t take a great leap of the imagination to spot similarities. The Revenge Project is perhaps my first ‘proper’ project as AlienFox Designs and, like many of the aesthetics that came before it, I started out with a story in my head. One of spirituality and magic - and the uses and misuses of power, psychological archetypes and demons; humanity’s trauma when coming to terms with its occasionally horrific past, trying to reconcile that with a difficult present and attempting to look towards a future we cannot possibly know. I think my influences right now revolve around mysticism and sex; religion and demonic possession. FM: Are you proud to be part of the South West’s art scene? F: ‘Scene’ is such an awkward word. But it’s so accurate, don’t you think? It’s a big huge set, where we all play our little parts. Some make music, some paint, some make clothes, some dance; there’s drama, there’s love, there’s hate, there’s all these pure and extreme emotions that we perform through whatever medium we choose. Oh, it’s definitely a scene and I’m definitely proud of it. I’ve had the pleasure and good fortune to be around some very talented people for a

great deal of my life - it’s been beautiful to watch many of them hone their skills and progress to great things. FM: What is the best thing about being involved in the art scene? F: In bigger cities there’s lots going on, obviously. This follows that the bigger the city, the larger and more vibrant the ‘scene’. I lived in London and know from experience that this can be a wonderful thing, but it can sometimes be hard to see the proverbial wood for the trees. In the South West, people are no less dedicated to their art than in other parts of the country, but there’s certainly less egomania. Egotrippping doesn’t work when the arts and music scenes are so small. And where the scenes are bigger, you run the risk of alienating people who don’t have the ferociousness of a big mouth to announce their presence. We all have to stick together, or at the very least, play the game and have respect. The best thing for me is that having branched out with AlienFox Designs a few months ago, people have been so eager to help model, photograph and give me advice that I never feel like I’m drowning in a sea of people shouting “me me me me”. FM: Describe yourself in 3 words: F: Interplanetary, tribal, vampire. FM: Describe your work in 3 words: F: Psychological, golden, magic. FM: Colour is a key aspect in your work, do you have any favourites? F: My ultimate favourite colour is red. That really scarlet, rusty red that reminds me of a sliced

open finger. I’ve always been drawn to red, but in my work lately, I have been using plenty of chromes and gold. There was a time where I very much enjoyed neon greens and oranges - the colour of bad acid. I have an aversion to blue, for some reason. FM: As this issue is all about introductions, is there anyone would you want to introduce to our readers? F: When I put my first ‘proper’ short film “Tesseract” up online, it attracted the attention of someone who showed it to a musician. The musician got in touch with me and asked if I would make two masks for her latest music video. That was pretty much my first commission from someone who I hadn’t even met before I made the masks in my garage and no sooner had I finished, I was invited to actually be in the video in one of the costumes. The musician in question is Leigh De Vries and I have since had the pleasure of designing a headpiece made entirely out of crow feathers, with this enormous studded beak at the front. (Pictured beneath) Leigh De Vries can be found at: www.leighway.com and her new single, “Strange”, will be released, video and all, very soon. Google her, Facebook her, Youtube her. Imagine Enya reaching orgasm while slaughtering her enemies with a synth. Foxy’s designs are some of the most creative that we’ve seen in a very long time! We think he is definitely one to watch. Find him on facebook or follow his blog at http://alienfox.wordpress.com/ Imagery supplied by FOXY

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SPOTLIGHT - introducing

OLIVER ALEXANDER-

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JONES

FM: Could you tell our readers a little about yourself? OAJ: My name is Oliver Alexander-Jones and I’m an artist currently studying photography for my fourth year. I’m English but have moved about a bit due to my father being a man of the forces. One of the places I’ve lived is Naples, Italy, which is quite relevant to talk about as this place relates to my up and coming final major project in April. FM: How would you describe your work? OAJ: I’m not sure there’s a quick way to sum up that particular area of interest. I’ve gone through some changes to say the least; I started off like most, taking photographs of ‘pretty things’, haha! I went onto portraiture which led to what I feel was some fairly successful fashion-based pieces, and by this point, I felt like all of my work had to involve a person. The degree I’m undertaking has been a huge eye-opener in the sense that it’s turned my world upside down. Confessionary, through being somewhat gingerly pushed towards working and studying in a lot more of a conceptual manner, I now feel only the smallest desire to make fashion work. After three years of wanting nothing more than to be given the chance to do a BA Honours at somewhere like London College Of Fashion, it now almost never enters my mind. I have adoration for the idea of creating personal projects, involving personal subject matter, for the rest of my life. It’s not impossible at all.

FM: You’ve been a practicing photographer for a while now, when did it all start? OAJ: I first became interested in picture making at the age of around fifteen when my friend had been bought a nice, new digital SLR (arrogantly cringing at the thought of using a digital camera). I started to use it more than him, and after having a major childhood skateboarding accident, my father offered to buy me something big as a ‘coming out of hospital present’; this was such a fantastic opportunity for me and that was where it all began.

FM: Was there anything in particular that drew you to photography? OAJ: Now I’ll try not to sound cliché, It was all because of the sheer fact that it started to sink in that I could capture a moment in time and keep it for as long as I wanted. The more I learn, the more my style is ever growing and moulding around myself, I tend to pleasingly change and adapt the reason that I am or was ever drawn to my area of practice; Self expression is the current and absolute strongest attraction of what pulls me in to what I do. FM: Who inspires your work? OAJ: My inspiration has changed somewhat. I’ve gone from swearing by the work of the likes of Rankin, Mario Testino, Herb Ritts, David Bailey to mostly only ever-deriving small parts of inspiration from underground artists and photographers who aren’t known to many. If anything, I’ve been focusing on the works of Alec Soth and Simon Roberts. FM: Are you proud to be part of the Southwest art scene? OAJ: Well of course I am proud, I’m proud because there are some really good artists around here so it’s an honour to be a part of it, but it’s merely the beginning and I don’t want to be sat here in five years saying I’m still proud to be part of it. FM: Any favourite colours? OAJ: It’s all about Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and White for me. The CMY colour spectrum is all that’s needed when it comes to my preference of attention to tones throughout my work. I did a project on ‘Colour Within Fashion’ during my National Diploma course and looked very deeply into colour. I wouldn’t ever shoot on B&W anymore. FM: Could you suggest any other artists to our readers? OAJ: If anyone were to look into an artist, be sure to look upon that of my best friend’s latest series; Entfernung (by Jay Bing). I’ve learnt a ridiculous amount from Jay, in more than just an artistic sense. I needn’t say more, but follow him and be prepared to be impressed from this series onwards. (One of Jay’s works is featured in this issue) FM: What is 2012 about for you? OAJ: I want 2012 to hold the key to me finding my direction and myself. Over everything else, this is the only thing of importance for me.


SPOTLIGHT - introducing

FM: Describe your work in 3 words? OAJ: Raw, Minimalistic, Personal. FM: What do you love most about the South West? OAJ: I love how much seawater and sea air we have around us, which is obviously taken for granted at times. When I go away to some other cities, it dawns on me so quickly how they don’t have what we do in the South West. Read more about Ollie and see his work online at: www.cargocollective.com/oliveraj www.flickr.com/a-j--photography/ www.oliveralexander-jones.blogspot.com Imagery supplied by OLIVER A.J

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SPOTLIGHT - introducing


SPOTLIGHT - introducing

DEAD

POETS Plymouth based Fun Loving Alt-Rock band share with Faction Magazine a little about themselves and their plans for 2012.

FM: Tell us a little bit about yourself and your work: DP: We’re Dead Poets from Plymouth. We like to write good music and play heaps of shows meeting great people along the way. FM: You guys have been together for a while, how did it all start? DP: We all went to school together and all loved music from an early age. So we came together to play music we loved and then it grew into a passion from there. We were all around 15/16 when we first started playing music with each other. FM: What first drew you to create music? DP: Our goal has always been to just enjoy the music we write and to do something a bit different to everyone else without resorting to the use of gimmicks. We love the music we play and I think that shows in our live performances. FM: Can you tell us of anything that inspires your music? DP: The people we know and the places we live and each other. It’s easy for a band to wear their inspirations and influences on their sleeve, to make it easier for people to get them, but we’re not into using other people’s sound or ideas, besides, we’ve got to many influences for that, we’d have to wear xl sleeves. FM: Your’re always playing shows, are you proud to be part of the Southwest music scene? DP: Definitely. There are great places like White Rabbit that give everyone a chance to play on a great show, or play their first one. It’s places like these that give people aspiration and allow the scene to grow even bigger. We started at the bottom but now feel we fit in the local music community. FM: What is the best thing about being involved

with it? DP: The people, the shows and the music. We’re so far away from the big bright cities, we do our own thing, and it works. FM: As this is our introducing issue and we wanted people to hear about you, is there any other bands you think need some recognition? DP: As We Sink!, Head of Programmes, Crazy Arm, The Deering, Damerels, Bearfight! The Blowouts. All local, all great. FM: Do you have any plans 2012? DP: We have loads of plans for 2012! We began shooting our video for a single off the new record in the first week of January, so it’s been busy from the get go! We also had a record release show on February 17th at White Rabbit with heaps of sick bands. It marked the release of our 5 track record we laid down at the end of October. It’s only be available on CD, and we shot a live video on the night. We have plans for touring and we’ll see where the rest of the year takes us. FM: Describe your music in 3 words: DP: Sharp, Fast and Tight. (just like the trousers) FM: You said earlier you started at the bottom and now feel like you fit in. Would you give any advice to bands just starting out? DP: Prepare to be bankrupt forever, do it for the right reasons, and never give up. FM: What do you love most about the South West? DP: We’re right near the coast, the moors and a decent size city. You get the best of everything, and what’s not to love about that? Dead poets debut album was released in February Check out Dead Poets at www.facebook.com/deadpoetsofficial Imagery supplied by DEAD POETS

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BEN ASLETT

FM: When did you first becoming interested in illustration? BA: There were always plenty of children’s books around the house when I was growing up and I loved reading The Beano. As a teenager I was really into skateboarding and geeked out over skateboard graphics and graffiti it was around this time that I realized I had an interest in art and a knack for drawing I think it just progressed from there. Although I grew up looking and loving illustration it wasn’t until I got to college that I realized it was specifically illustration that I wanted to pursue.

FM: What drew you towards it? BA: I have always been interested in drawing and creating images but at the time couldn’t really pin point what it was I was creating, it wasn’t until I went to college that I learnt about illustration and realized it was something I ha been enjoying my whole life. It was a revelation for me and it felt like the most natural path. FM: Do you have any inspirations or influences? BA: I try and keep a sketchbook to hand and I think most ideas start with a drawing or a word I have jotted down. Most of my final images are created digitally so I try to keep things fresh and experiment with new techniques and processes as much as possible. This often sparks off different ideas and different directions to take my work. I also collect bits and pieces of interest, I have tons of artist books, zines, cigarette cards and annuals, these are a constant source of inspiration and I guess I’d have to say that I find a lot of inspiration through the internet on sites like flickr and ffffound. FM: Are you proud to be part of the South West’s art scene? BA: I have really talented friends living in Devon and Cornwall and there are also some brilliant design courses churning out some great talent which

I’m psyched to be around. Recently I have really sensed a scene starting to develop around young designers and creatives, you start to see the same names and recognize work. I think the industry as a whole is seeing a lot more individuals getting involved, there seems be an increase in students studying these kind of courses it really seems to be a bit trendy at the moment. For me there has been some really encouraging developments in the last year with Plymouths Nom de strip publication and Exeter’s No Guts No Glory shop which are really trying to nurture a scene and its exciting to see. FM:What is the best thing about being involved in the South West art/music scene? BA: Its exciting to see an evolving scene and seeing my friends progress. FM: You use a lot of colour in your work, do you have a favourite? BA: I think I’d struggle to pick an individual colour as a favourite, I think it probably changes on a daily basis. I really love using colour in my work and finding the right colour pallette is a really important process for me, I think my colour palette really takes inspiration from mid century illustration, folks like Mary Blair and JP Miller have been an inspiration, the colours and the aesthetics of design through this period has a really timeless appeal for me. FM: Describe your work in 3 words: BA: mid century inspired, graphic, fun. More than 3 words but I think it sums it up nicely. FM: Do you have any exhibitions coming up? BA: Nothing planned just yet but you can see my work at Re-legacy gallery in plymouth and No Guts No Glory in Exeter. FM: What do you love most about the South West? BA: I really feel at home in the southwest I’ve lived in various places but always seem to be drawn back here. I think there is generally a friendlier and chilled out atmosphere in the southwest and its great being so close to the sea and the countryside. See more of Ben’s work on his website: www.benaslett.co.uk Imagery supplied by BEN ASLETT

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TOM CARTER

SPOTLIGHT - introducing

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FM: When did you first become interested in photography? TC: When I was young I would ride bikes with my friends every weekend and I used to have this small phone that could film and edit video footage, I would record all our antics and make short albeit cheesy films. They were so, so bad, I used star wipes, big fades and nu metal soundtracks but it started my love of documenting what I got up to. I soon picked up the family digital compact and began to take photos too.

FM: What was it that drew you to start capturing images? TC: As cliché as it sounds I love capturing memories no matter how small, I was always the one taking photos at family events and days out. Now however, photography means a lot more to me than that. I’ve always been a creative person; collecting magazines and always watching films, even down to the way I dress and the music I listen too - I love the stories and connotations behind imagery. FM: Do you have any inspirations or influences that help ot shape your work? TC: The “We’re All Friends Here” collective based in Plymouth make some amazing pictures, and for me revealed there is more to photography than the commercial wedding and club photos. I love reading books (Henry Rollins, Jack Kerouac, George Orwell), I also love films (Lars Von Trier, Larry Clark, Sofie Copolla) and I’m interested in nature, history, music and art. Photographer wise, Tom Kondrat, Thomas Albdorf and Dimitri Karakostas are three artists that really interest me and produce consistent and inspiring work. I feel like it’s only in the last year that I have really found a love for all things photographic, from experimenting with different mediums to bookmaking to setting up exhibitions. So I find most contemporary photographers interesting in some respect. I think the main thing that pushes me to take photographs is my life. I am one of those people that find fascination in everything no matter how trivial, I always ask questions and try to

learn things. FM: What is the best thing about being involved in the South West art scene? TC: Meeting people… 100%. Take away all the pretentious snobbery and hierarchy that sometimes is associated with art and it’s the people that mean more than getting a name or whatever. Having fun and talking to passionate people is what I like best, whether they are studying graphics or marine biology, running their own magazine or playing in a band they are the guys that make up the southwest ‘scene’ if you like. FM: Are you proud to be involved with whats going on down in the Southwest? TC: Extremely proud, moving out of my small fishing town and getting to Plymouth, living on my own in a city and meeting new people was the best decision I have made. I have engulfed myself with creative and interesting characters, they are all so fun to hang out with and everyone is doing something different which creates this kind of network of artists. People here are so up for doing things off their own back because down in the Southwest it can get fairly quiet but once you scratch the surface there is so much culture and fun to take in. FM: Describe yourself in 3 words: TC: An absolute Goth! FM: And your work? TC: Serene, Chaotic and Impulsive. FM: Do you have any plans for 2012? TC: Well I’m 20 years old and currently living in France, I’ve been studying at Plymouth College of Art for two years so I fancied a change of scenery. In 2012 I’m off to America for 2 months, hitchhiking or riding cargo trains, then I’m travelling Europe and then I’m off to university in September! FM: Finally, is there anything that you think sets the South West apart from everywhere else? TC: As I mentioned before the DIY culture down here is fantastic! Tom’s work can be viewed online at http://wellofsouls.tumblr.com/ With a proliferating archive of images up on his blog its definitely one to check out. Imagery supplied by Tom Carter


SPOTLIGHT - introducing

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SPOTLIGHT - introducing

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SPOTLIGHT - introducing

PABLO JONESSOLER FM: Tell us a little bit about yourself and your work: PJS: I am a second year graphic design/ illustration student at Central Saint Martins. I try and do a bit of everything really, which could potentially my downfall, but hopefully not.

FM: When did you first becoming interested in your area of practice? PJS: I remember in year 8 I used to be in a two-piece band with my friend Jon pocket, we just did covers of Lars Fredriksen and the bastards and shit like that. We decided to validate what we where doing a bit we should make a poster and get a name. We called ourselves “the funking shats” and the poster consisted of a dog poo and a hand sticking up its middle finger. Maybe a picture of Trevor MacDonald as well, I’m not sure. Apart from that just drawing as a child, I used to draw massive convertor belt like machines that people would get transported along and subjected to torture of various kinds including being dipped in glue and iron filings then getting fucked up by magnets, But it would always end with a healing shower of rose water. FM: What was it that first drew you to Illustration and Graphic Design? PJS: I guess when I was in gcse and I did graphic art that’s when I realised it what I wanted to get into. I spent the whole two years just photoshopping cars onto dinosaur heads. FM: Do you have any main influences that you’d like to share with our readers? PJS: I like things that are ugly, fake or awkward. Listening to a really good speaker or reading a sick book is always a winner as well. FM: Are you proud to be part of the South West’s art scene?

PJS: I don’t know how much of a part of it I really am but, yeah. As far as I gather things have definitely seemed to be getting a bit more interesting down here recently. FM: What is the best thing about the South West art/ music scene PJS: it’s not the scunthrope art scene. FM: Do you have any favourite colours that you like to us within your work? PJS: whatever suits the current vibe. Because if it doesn’t then it would automatically be killing the vibe, and that is not good for the vibe. FM: Our first issue is all about introduction and there’s a lot of things going on in 2012 that were letting everyone know about, do you have any plans? PJS: the jubilee should be sick I missed out on the royal wedding. So mainly that. FM: Describe yourself in 3 words: PJS: these three words (Stevie wonder) FM: Do you have any exhibitions coming up? PJS: we have a end of year show sort of thing in June, maybe a thing at power lunches in Dalston curated by sitting room skipping, and a show at beach (London) with just us collective, hopefully some more, I’ll have to wait and see. FM: Where are your favourite places to eat in the South West? PJS: my home FM: Where are your favourite places to unwind/relax? PJS: Various Jacuzzis FM: What do you think sets the South West apart from everywhere else? PJS: The bloke from x factor

See more of Pablo’s work online at: www.pablojonessoler.co.uk http://pablojonessoler.tumblr.com Imagery supplied by PABLO JONES SOLER

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LOUISE HONEY FM: Tell us a little about yourself and your work LH: I’m 18, living in Falmouth, Cornwall. I’ve just started my first year at Falmouth University studying BA (Hons) Fashion Design. My work and personal style has really stared to transform and become more polished, it’s difficult at this time to fully define it. I’ve started to focus on Menswear - the styling really interests me, especially in contemporary street wear. I also thoroughly enjoy print design and have done since attending Plymouth Art College. I like creating very wearable clothes that have either an unusual detail to them or a very vibrant print. FM :When did your interest in fashion start? LH: I think when I first got into looking at online blogs and magazines, which was when I was about thirteen. I was more interested in photography than fashion at first, but slowly realized it’s what’s worn within the image I was more inspired by, rather than how the photograph was taken. FM: Nowadays, what inspires you and influences your work? LH: Music, festivals, street style, cinema, vintage icons, illustration, personal experiences 1960’s and 1970’s, graphic design, photographers and photo blogs. I really enjoy research and discovering new artists and blogs. I find particular bloggers very influential-how they live their lives and how they reflect and record their experiences. They inspire me to be successful and independent and to enjoy what I do. FM: What first drew you to want to start designing? LH: I think it was the natural progression of slowly building up a list of artists and bloggers-of all professions- that really interested and inspired me. Since I was young I was always encouraged to draw and be creative so I think I discovered fashion as the way I could combine all of my artistic interests to produce a visual product that people could enjoy. I feel like I’m still being draw to fashion now, by each of the new artists and techniques I discover. I remember being at Glastonbury Festival 2010 and seeing Andrew

Vanwyngarden from MGMT on stage wearing a crazy heavily printed suit and wanting to be able to produce something like that, to be worn by a similar customer or personality.

FM: Being interested in print you work with colour a lot. Do you have any favourites? LH: Aqua - It reminds me of my mother White - Sophisticated and clean Black - I think black as a base colour in outfits looks great, with bold colour details or accessories, and Silver - Most of the jewelry I wear and have given to me by relatives is silver FM: How would you describe your work? LH: Evolving, Experimental…My style has already changed a lot since starting university and I’m developing as a designer. There’s still so much within fashion and in art altogether that I find fascinating that I haven’t explored yet, so it’s hard to define my work at this time! FM: Do you have any tips for our readers? LH: Don’t be afraid to ask questions, keep an openmind, experiment, take on board criticism, be passionate, strong and determined…enjoy yourself too! Love what you do. FM: As we’re all from the southwest we’re asking what you love about it here? LH: I love the rural areas of the southwest. The sea, the changing landscapes and most of my family live here. I like the relaxed atmosphere and the slower daily pace. It’s a nice place to come back to after visiting a city, it’s an exciting part of the UK to be - in a different way to that of living in a busy environment. I feel that there’s lots of opportunities and careers to chase after here due to location. I’ve been to some unusual and fun parties here too.

You can keep up with what Louise is doing online at either one of her blogs: http://h--oney.tumblr.com/ http://h--oneyprojects.tumblr.com/ Imagery supplied by LOUISE HONEY


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SPOTLIGHT - introducing

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PHILIP HARRIS FM: Hey, can you tell us a little about yourself? PH: I’m am a freelance illustrator from South Devon, UK. My work is inspired by the Edwardian and Victorian eras, suffusing bizarre and surreal elements to an engaging pictorial narrative. Working with dip ink pens given to me by my Grandfather, my aim with my illustration is to engross the viewer by the details and symbols within the images.

illustration was the best medium is it’s strongest asset and is the to express my ideas and thoughts. best thing about being involved!

FM: Is there anything that influences your work? PH: I take a great deal of inspiration from Victorian illustrators such as Arthur Rackham, Gustave Dore and modern illustrators such as Sergio Toppi, Vania Zouravliov, Edward Gorey. I also am greatly inspired by traditional tattoo design, medieval illuminated manuscripts FM: When did you first be- and religious Gothic art. As well come interested in illustration? as world folk fore and history. PH: I have been drawing since I was young but it wasn’t un- FM: Are you proud to be part til I went to Plymouth Univer- of the South West’s art scene? sity that I really started to fo- PH: Yes cus on illustration seriously. FM: What is the best thing FM: Is there anything that drew about being involved? you to it? (excuse the pun) PH: I think the variety of styles PH: I found during my art foun- and type of work which makes up dation year at Exeter College that the South West music and art scene

FM: Both of the pieces we’ve featured use mainly black and white, do you like to work with colour? PH: I like to use in my work a limited range of muted colours with occasional highlights in red to create interest. But without detracting too much from the line work. FM: Are there any other artists that you’d like to intoduce to our readers? PH: There are loads and loads but some good local illustrators and artists to check out are; Donya Todd, Ben Aslett, Ben Wright, Jack Teagle, Lauren Gow, Benjamin Wright, Abigail Mckenzie, Chris Odgers Isaac Lenkiewicz and Owen Gent. FM: What are your plans for 2012? PH: To continue working as a


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freelance illustrator developing my style and refining it. I have also begun a tattoo apprenticeship this year. I am really excited about learning new techniques and skills. FM: Describe yourself in 3 words: PH: Quiet, patient and focussed. FM: Describe your work in 3 words: PH: Detailed, Surreal, Narrative. FM: What advice would you give to people just starting out and wanting to get into illustration? PH: It sounds like a cliché, but just don’t give up. There are a lot of ups and downs in illustration. It’s hard not to take things to heart when things don’t go to plan but you have to be thick skinned and just focus on what you want to do. FM: Do you have any exhibitions coming up? PH: Not planned yet but I will

post any up coming events on my blog. There may be one soon with the Exeter based shop ‘No Guts no Glory’ and also with ‘No-way’ which is an East London-based collective.

Dawlish and I always find being near to the sea calming.

FM: as your born and bred here what do you think sets the South West apart from everywhere else? PH: The South West has a FM: What do you love great balance between envimost about the South West? ronments. From the sea to the PH: The history and folk lore. All city to the moors and woodthe old traditions and tales from lands, all within easy reach. old towns and villages. I love those places that feel like they haven’t be touched by the modern world and retain the old charm. Have a look at more of Philip’s work on his website at: FM: are there any places in the South-west you love to go? http://www.philipharrisillustration.co.uk/ PH: The Old Fire House in Exeter is probably my favourite place to eat, not to mention it has some damn good ales and ciders! Imagery supplied by PHILIP HARRIS FM: Where are your favourite places to unwind? PH: By the sea, I was raised in


SPOTLIGHT- Minerva Streetwear

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Up and Coming Exeter streetwear retailer Minerva boast an impressive collection of quality clothing as well as working with local creative talent. Take a stroll through Exeter city centre and there is no shortage of big-name stores available for your shopping pleasure, but if you want something different then head to Minerva. The store is something of a hidden gem (I got lost trying to find it anyway) on Street, but is well worth walking a mile in the wrong direction before realising that you passed it ten minutes ago. While this has probably only happened to me, and only ever will happen to me, the sentiment is still true. Minerva Exeter is definitely worth a visit. Stocking brands like HUF, Only and Puma, Minerva is a must for all discerning fans of covetable street wear and cool, American skate brands. The store’s open layout has a laidback boutique feel, and while similar stores often have a clique-y vibe, Minerva feels welcoming, almost as if you could just visit and wile away the hours talking about sweet clothes all day. If this wasn’t enough, Minerva has upped its cool factor even more, by using the talents of south west based creatives for photography and web design. Here at Faction we are all about championing the south west, and Minerva clearly feels the same way. The website was designed by Drew Turner (featured in this issue of Faction) and the shop’s lookbook has been shot by Dom Moore, also from Plymouth. The relaxed, urbantinged feel of Minerva’s promo images reflects the store, the stock and the customers perfectly.


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Plymouth Life Centre has finally opened after a massive £46.5 Million was spent on it over the last 2 years! Home to a new 150 station fitness suite and a 10 lane, 50 metre swimming pool the life centre is quickly becoming the go to place for any fitness fanatic. The new diving pool fully equipped with movable floor has been named one of the best in country and after taking a dip, why not take a trip to their ‘relaxation oasis’ with sauna, steam room and showers.

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With membership deals starting at only £25 a month it’s worth a visit! Take a look at their website at: www.everyoneactive.com

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e’ve scoured the South West looking for the best places we think you need to check out. With a great selection of new and old we’ve managed to find some interesting little gems, Whether your a budding fashion designer or enjoy the finer things in life.

Hidden away on the cobbled back streets of the Barbican, Plymouth, you’ll find this little gem. Liberty. A stockist of the fabrics made by Liberty of London the shop caters for any budding fashion student with a desire to create top quality clothing. Also selling shirts and accessories made from the famous ‘Tana Lawn’ fabric, we definitely think that this tiny yet exciting shop needs celebrating just remember top quality comes at a price, but it’s so worth it. Find Liberty at: Tudor House, 17 New St, Plymouth, PL1 2NA


“The best seasonal local produce is always at the heart of the River Cottage approach to cooking, and we are very much looking forward to celebrating and contributing to the vibrancy of the local food community in Plymouth,” River Cottage Canteen and Deli located at the Royal William Yard, Plymouth has now opened it’s doors and it’s perfect. Fresh produce and a simple menu make for a great evening.

The Barbican Theatre has been serving the artistic community of Plymouth since 1980. The building houses an intimate and comfortable theatre with weekly performances, and a beautifully chic noodle bar serving authentic Thai cuisine. Regular events including salsa, comedy nights and live music at the inhouse B-Bar and exhibitions of international and local artists claiming the wall space of the cabaret-esque bar make this muti-use venue the perfect night out for anyone with nothing to do, it’s best to get there early on the weekends though as the Barbican Theatre has built up quite the reputation in the last 3 decades. See whats going on at the Barbican Theatre and the B-bar at: www.barbicantheatre.co.uk

If like us, you love nothing better than a great meal followed by a film, and maybe a wander around the latest exhibition then you’ll love Plymouth Arts Centre. New exhibitions come around regularly and the newly refurbished ‘Arthouse’ restaurant is an affordable and relaxing environment.

www.plymouthartscentre.org

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THINGS W

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ith a selection of great events continuing throughout the summer season you’ll never be short of great exhibitions to go to. We’ve broadened our horizons and included some things that are a little further away. They were to good too miss!

‘Affordable Orginal Art / Showcasing the South West’s Emerging Talent’. We at FACTION love what Chris at CMYK Gallery has been upto over the last few months. Working together with local artists from around the South West he has created an online platform for them to sell their work. With a pop up exhibition tour beginning soon make sure you get down to one of the events when it hits a town near you! www.cmykgallery.co.uk The great fashion photographers all under one roof! What more could you possibly ask for?! Selling Dreams: 100 years of fashion photography is a touring exhibition currently at RWA Bristol shortly moving to Exeter. The works showcased range from the first ever fashion images to current imagery from world renowned photographers such as Miles Aldridge and Rankin.


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Clare Twomey is the latest artist to have an exhibtiong curated for her at Plymouth Museum. PLYMOUTH PORCELAIN: A NEW COLLECTION features 33 suspended cases containing white porcelain objects that have been cast from objects suggested by the people of Plymouth.

The Olympic torch relay begins on 18th May 2012 stopping in Plymouth on the 19th and then to Exeter on 20th. Get your running shoes on and join in. After all 2012 is the year when we should be proud to be British. And who knows? Hopefully someone will host their own JUBILYMPIC party when the torch hits town!

Objects were suggested for various reasons - in celebration of friends or family or because of related emotions and memories. Against the back drop of the Museum’s historic Plymouth Porcelain collection, the commission looks to the future by capturing the stories of people today. http://www.claretwomey.com/

Find out more at: www.london2012.com

Each year the University of Plymouth Art Degree show. Providstudents studying illustrachitecture, 3D design, fine multitude of other coursyear the 2012

set about curating their ing a platform for their tion, photographic, arart, typography and a es at the University. This Art degree show opens from Saturday 16 June to Thursday 28 June, 10.00 – 17.00

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COYOTE Photography: Rosie Kliskey



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NEON Photography: Matt Sheather


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KEEP CALM AND

RULE BRITANNIA


FACTION 2012

HI 2 of Britain’s C T A SA MMER most controverSU sial artists exhibiting

throughout the summer is something not be missed. Be sure to check out Tracey Emin’s deeply personal exhibition ‘She lay down deep beneath the sea’. Open 26 May 2012 to 23 September at Turner Contemporary, Margate, and Damien Hirst’s retrospective at The Tate Modern on untill 9th September 2012.

ADE

LE

Rising to an untouchable height ADELE is one of Britain’s most successful female artists. Her second studio album 21 made her the first female artist in the UK to sell more than 3 Million copies of an album in 1 year. Now worth a staggering £20 Million she earns a place in the top 20 on The Sunday Times Rich List.

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012 is rapidly become the year of patriot pride. Dust off your bunting and prepare to celebrate the year of the Brit.

Last year was the year of Will and Kate, This year we have the Royal Jubillee and the Olympics, (Jubilympics for short). This article celebrates the Best of British from Burbery’s rise to Billion Dollar giant to our local South-West Olympian hopeful Tom Daley.

With the Olympic games less than would be an appropriate time to celebrate hopefuls, Tom Daley. As one of the faces Team GB, Madame Tussauds have recently the most dramatic figures ever to feature at dive as he soars from the diving board figure is suspended at a height of four set and guests can literally walk right unThe champion diver commented: “I can’t sculptors will have done an amazing job. my ‘twin’ suspended in mid-dive - it Tussauds Lon-

T O DA M LEY

3 months away we thought it one of our local sporting Olympic of the 2012 games and paying tribute to unveiled their latest work of him, One of the attraction, Daley is captured in midtowards the water. The high impact metres in a specially designed aquatic derneath as Daley is frozen in action. wait to see the figure and know the I’m sure it’ll be a strange feeling to see really is an honour to be in Madame don amongst so many sporting legends.”

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FACTION 2012

Words by Mike Raven

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On June 15th 2012 a revolution in men’s fashion will be landing in London in the form of London Collections: MEN. The initiative is a development from the Men’s day at fashion week showcasing British brands. The two-day event at London’s Hospital Club has been created to emphasise the importance of creative and commercial British brands and emerging talent. The event will kick off with a reception hosted by HRH the Prince of Wales to celebrate the launch of London Collections: MEN at St James’ Palace. The catwalks will be the Mecca for contemporary fashion, brimming with the best of British and international men’s design. Commencing on the Friday, TOPMAN Design, Orlebar Brown, Burberry and Paul Smith will be showcasing their latest collections much to the excitement of the fashion elite and spellbound press. With Christopher Bailey serving in his 11th year as Chief Creative Officer, the Burberry show is bound to be a captivating experience. Y.M.C will present their range of eclectic prints and patterns on their signature understated, classic silhouettes. Taking inspiration from youth culture and growing rapidly to gain status as a must have brand for the everyday man who lets his clothing

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speak for itself. Never obsessed with shabby arrogance or gaudy mediocrity, Y.M.C are definitely ones-to-watch. Saturday will begin with the Fashion East Menswear Installment. Selected by the Fashion East panel, around ten up and coming menswear designers present their collections using a combination of static exhibits, live models and multimedia. Past installations have included a bus shelter, a boxing ring, live bands and a speakeasy. The second day of London’s new yearly event will be injected with contemporary elegance in the form of Jonathan Saunders and Christopher Shannon, both fairly new on the Menswear scene they are rising forces in this year’s crusade for style. Saunders’ simple-but-chic Britishness and Shannon’s edgy, tailored layering will be a sure hit.

This final day concludes with collections from J.W Anderson and Nicole Farhi (Mens). The lucky few who are invited will be able to take their pick from a myriad of luxury, enjoying the Tom Ford dinner, the Esquire and Mr. Porter event or the Louis Vuitton cocktail party. No matter where your interests lie there will be something for any fashion savvy male this June. Find out more about the London Collections: MEN and view the schedule on their website at www.londoncollections.co.uk


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Imagery supplied by Burberry

BILLION

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Words by Georgia Bey t was announced recently that Britain has entered back into a recession, with the economy shrinking for the past 6 months, so it’s probably time that we brace ourselves for yet more doom-and-gloom. It is no secret that the great British high street has been suffering, but the effects of this economic uncertainty are far-reaching – affecting some of the country’s best known luxury labels. Aquascutum and Jaeger, two iconic British brands, entered administration in April, leaving hundreds of jobs at risk and the future of the brands’ on shaky ground.


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One brand bucking this trend, though, is Burberry. Reaching record sales of £1 billion in the last half of the financial year, Burberry has joined the likes of international giants Gucci and Louis Vuitton and cemented its place as a true global heavyweight. A huge achievement for a brand established in 1856 in Basingstoke, by draper’s apprentice Thomas Burberry. The 18% boost in sales was thanks, in part, to a rapidly increasing presence in foreign markets, particularly China. While not the only brand to take advantage of China’s growing interest in luxury goods, Burberry is one of the few British brands really taking advantage of this development. With the recent unveiling of a flagship store in Shangai, China’s love affair with Burberry shows no signs of slowing.

‘mood’. Bailey has described the project as aiming to “to bring people into live contact with bands that we love, bands we admire and bands we believe in.” Essentially, though, Burberry Acoustic is a clever way of keeping in touch with Burberry’s truly British roots while maintaining the modern vibe the label is known for. Earlier this year, Burberry took Acoustic one step further, by using the next generation of British musical superstars in the campaign for its eyewear collection. Artists such as Marika Hackman, One Night Only and Life In Film have been releasing exclusive tracks along with accompanying videos throughout April, and May will see them headlining gigs in Sydney and Milan, to name a few.

BURBERRY HAS GROWN INTO A MULTI-FACETED BRAND.

The Shanghai flagship was launched with a performance by British band Keane, their first ever performance in China, and the set was made available via Burberry Acoustic. The website was launched in 2010 and showcases British bands, like Keane as well as other lesser known groups, chosen from Burberry’s Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey’s own music collection, allowing the online audience to tap in to the Burberry

The brand has certainly mastered the art of using the internet and social media to widen and engage its audience on a level that feels more personal than just adverts on the page of a magazine. The online presence is undeniable (5 millions fans on Facebook alone is pretty impressive!) and makes the brand feel more youthful and alive – something that’s important for a heritage label that doesn’t want to be seen as old and dusty. What is most impressive about Burberry’s online strategy is the live


FACTION 2012

streaming of their shows every season. By streaming every look as it travels down the runway, along with minutely updates about the show, they have put fans of the label in the midst of something that was previously highly exclusive. We are right there at London Fashion Week, often with a better view than half the guests. Through this, Burberry has effectively kicked down the doors of fashion, allowing us mere mortals the opportunity to see things normally reserved for the fashion elite.

into borderline-futuristic territory. More Burberry World Live events are planned for later this year, with the sensory party stopping off in Chicago, London and Hong Kong. Each event is sure to be the most sought-after ticket in the fashion world. Burberry has grown into a multi-faceted brand, one that we Brits should be extremely proud of. The hugely successful online strategy has been imitated by other brands, but Burberry were really one of the first to realise the importance of the internet. Just as back in 1856, Thomas Burberry was the first to use the hardwearing, waterproof fabric gabardine. While heritage and innovation may seem to be unlikely bedfellows, the juxtaposition of the two has always been central to Burberry’s ethos. The label has been hugely influential in cementing Britain’s place in the fashion world and has played a huge role in developing the rest of the world’s idea of “Cool Britannia”.

5 MILLION FACEBOOK FANS IS PRETTY IMPRESSIVE.

To celebrate the opening of yet another flagship store, this time in Taipei, the label brought us Burberry World Live. Highly conceptual in its nature, the launch invited guests to step into the world of Burberry – literally. It was staged in a truly immersive space, with film and live music (of course), along with simulations of the Great British weather, featuring golden rain and falling leaves. Christopher Bailey described it as “a celebration of Britishness all around the globe”. Of course it makes sense to highlight the weather with Burberry’s most iconic piece being the famous trench coat, but it’s more than that. Again, the label is showing its British heritage roots, but pushing ‘heritage’ forward

Long live Burberry, and long shall it reign at the top of British (and global) fashion. www.burberry.com

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2012

COLLABORATIONS

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s part of our introduction issue we thought we’d have a look at a few 2012 designer collaborations that we could introduce to you. We’ve searched for the most exciting and found some great collections that you will all want to get your hands on. Weather it’s Palace Skateboards teaming up with one of the biggest sporting brands in the world, or indie punk rocker Beth Ditto creating a range of makeup for M.A.C brand, there’s something for everyone. Words by Georgia Bey


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rom young upstarts to fully fledged skate label, the Palace Wayward Boys’ Choir has been on quite a journey since it’s inception a few short years ago. Starting life as an outlet for the lo-fi 90s tinged videos of a group of skateboarding homies and quickly developing into a much-needed legit British skate brand, creating apparel and decks that cater to an audience that are sick to death of the stereotypical baggyjeans-trucker-cap image normally associated with skateboarders. Since 2009, Palace has established itself firmly as the UK’s premium skate brand, with the name and the simple ‘Tri-Ferg’ logo quickly becoming more and more recognisable among those in the know, and recently winning the title of European Skateboard Brand of the Year, the brand is perfectly poised for expansion. Finding a suitable brand to align themselves with was tricky, Palace has a very clear intention and finding a kindred spirit among the myriad of brands and companies out there was always going to be difficult. Enter British sportswear giant Umbro, and we have the perfect meeting of minds. Palace founder Levent Tanju explained how the collaboration came about in a recent interview for the Umbro blog, “I just thought it’d be good thing to do – you’re English and we’re English, you know? It felt right.” Straightforward and simple, just like Palace’s signature aesthetic. Umbro is a natural choice for the brand to collaborate with, as the whole team are huge football fans, with Tanju comparing skateboarding to football saying, “it’s the same set of skills that you need I guess: balance, coordination, kicking stuff about with your feet”. The Palace X Umbro collection is an update on some classic football styles, the first is a replica of the Italia 1990 World Cup away strip. The shirt is true to the original in technology and styling but a twist is added through the Palace logo on the chest. The button-down collar on the Trill adds a smart twist to Palace’s take on the traditional Umbro drill. The Trill is available in three colourways; red, white and blue, oatmeal white and a red, white and blue stripe - perfect for the discerning England fan to wear in the


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stand or in the pub. Another choice item from the collection is a reversible wool jacket, inspired by Umbro’s Anthem jacket. One side is a dark blue, and the other a patterned white, letting you choose how to wear it – smart blue or cool white? Palace clearly holds a torch for the 1990s, an era that was, to many, the golden age of skateboarding. The recent release of the PWBC skate film ‘Tres Trill’ shows the extent of this nostalgia. Filmed on VHS, Palace nailed the 90s aesthetic even down to the tracking lines on the tape. So it doesn’t really come as a surprise that the collection is more than a little influenced by the 90s, and it’s even less surprising that the Palace have got it so, so right. The collaboration has been featured in full in i-D magazine, with photography by Alasdair McLellan, as well as being the subject of innumerable blog posts and forum conversations, so it is clear that Palace X Umbro is receiving well-deserved hype from all the right places. The collection is modern, cool and clever and while some may be horrified that Umbro have allowed changes to such classic British pieces, it is clear that Palace kept the tradition and heritage in mind and have captured the original inspiration brilliantly, with no huge alterations, just intelligent tweaks that bring the pieces right up to date. The collection has been on sale since mid-April at selected stockists including London’s Slam City, adding a heightened sense of exclusivity that only serves to make the collection even more covetable. With no south west stockists, and very limited stock left, the Palace x Umbro collab may be difficult to find, but it’s well worth the hunt! Find out more at : www.umbro.com and www.palaceskateboards.com


FACTION 2012

BETH DITTO

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ollowing a long line of high profile collaborations including Miss Piggy, Gareth Pugh and Daphne Guinness, makeup favourite MAC have now chosen to team up with The Gossip front-woman Beth Ditto to create a new limited edition makeup line inspired by her punk style, to be released globally in June. Ditto’s signature look is bright and bold, and while very few details of the collaboration have been released, you can bet that the line will reflect her ballsy and uncompromising style. Ditto has long been avidly outspoken about various LGBT issues, so it is clear why she has chosen to work with MAC; the company donates millions each year to HIV/AIDs charities and has its own dedicated MAC AIDS Fund, with all profits from the VIVA GLAM range going straight to the fund. By choosing to work with Ditto, MAC have aligned themselves with a new vision for beauty. Attitudes towards body image are changing, with the size zero debate still raging on and plus size models, like Crystal Renn, being seen as increasingly ‘viable options’ for high fashion, and Ditto has never been shy about her body, posing nude on the cover of LOVE magazine for instance, so she makes the perfect poster girl for this new stance. While you will have to wait until nearer the launch to see images and find out more about the Beth Ditto X MAC range, you can get your Ditto fix by checking out The Gossip’s new album ‘A Joyful Noise’, which is set for release in May, followed by a European tour in the summer.

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VANS


For Spring/Summer, Leon and Lim injected some much-needed American exuberance into the label, which was founded by Takada Kenzo in 1970. Kenzo’s work often centred around nature and use of colour, something that can be seen in the SS 12 collection too, but rather than rehashing archive designs the idea was to update Takada’s vision, as if he were designing for women today, rather than in the 70s. The collection was a mixture of urban and elegant, which could be seen as a metaphor for the juxtaposition between Kenzo’s classic Parisian look and Leon and Lim’s own New York hipster aesthetic. Being that Kenzo is a brand that has always been known for its prints, it was natural that Leon and Lim chose to update the house’s print approach with oversized fishnet and kitsch bird prints, inspired by American artist Ellsworth Kelly, adorning almost every look. Colour was another big element in the collection, with bright hues of orange and blue gracing more looks than their neutral counterparts – the electric blue jumpsuit, modelled by

Chloe Sevigny, was a particular favourite of mine. The mixture of streetwise chic, like the green and blue hooded jacket, with pieces like the oversized flowing maxi dress in orange and bird print, created a visually exciting collection, with something to please everyone. But not content with silencing their critics and smashing Paris Fashion Week with their debut collection, Leon and Lim are now teaming up with Vans for the hottest footwear collaboration of the summer. The collection is inspired by the colours and prints of Kenzo SS 12, and the giant fishnet print works brilliantly for those of us who are just a little bit bored with the standard Vans chequered pattern and want something fresh, infused with both Americana and Parisian chic.

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The collaboration came about because Leon and Lim “liked the idea of infusing this bit of American style into the house of Kenzo”, and I’m sure they won’t be the only ones who appreciate this combination – I know I certainly do! The shoes are perfect for people who want to get in on some Kenzo action before the brand gets as insanely big as it is set to, or maybe just for skate-shoe aficionados who love to snap up every limited edition collab they can! The line will become available in three instalments, the first in May, then June and July, from Harvey Nichols and Kenzo stores. The first set is available in a whopping seven colour ways, including electric blue and red, green and white. And while £80 may seem a little steep, keep in mind that this line is super limited edition and will soon become very difficult to find without a trip to Ebay. www.harveynichols.com

Imagery from vans

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hen hip American store Opening Ceremony’s founders, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were chosen as new creative directors of Parisian label Kenzo, there were more than a few raised eyebrows. With the Kenzo job being one of the most sought after in fashion, coupled with the fact that the pair weren’t previously known predominantly for their design skills, their work was well and truly cut out for them. There was no cause for alarm though, as Kenzo’s Spring/Summer 2012 show was well received by critics and fans alike.


BEAU At FAC T are foc ION we beli us ev the lim ing on introd e beauty com el u p guy, at ight. Whethe ction, showin letes the loo k r you a g off b FACTI rands t ! In this issue re a bo ON be ha ld auty is we what y -eye gal or a t we think d eserve ou wan dip‘n’d t it to b ash kin e. d of


UTY


IDENTITY PHOTOGRAPHY - Mike Raven STYLING -Georgia Bey HAIR - Lee Ewings @ March hair using Sebastian MAKE-UP - Matt Sheather MODEL - Grace Sullivan


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BEAUTYintroducing:

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GLOSSYBOX

For Women

T

here is never a need to be dulled down by the same old products since Glossy Box has come on the scene, try a selection of high-end beauty samples for a fraction of the price! Glossy Box provide a monthly subscription service, once signed up you will receive a box a month, filled with enough beauty products to try till your hearts content, or till the next box! The element of surprise is what makes this brand interesting, one month you could get a full sized nail polish or another month you may get to try that high-end luxury facial cream you have lusted over. With a small price tag of £10.00 a month (plus P&P) for women and £15.00 for men it is no wonder Glossy Box are the next big thing.

Products clockwise from top: 1.EYEKO, Skinny Eyeliner £9.50 per pencil, 2.DAVINES, Moisturising Balm £17.40 / 150ml, 3.MURAD, Hybrids Skin Perfecting Primer £29.00 / 30ml, 4.DAVINES, Cleansing Nectar £18.50 / 280ml, 5.FAB, Gentle Body Wash £13.00 / 226.8g


BEAUTYintroducing:

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GLOSSYBOX

For Men

Products clockwise from top: 1.GOLDWELL, StyleSign Roughman - Matt Cream Paste £9.00 / 100ml, 2.MONU, Vitru Conditioning Body Wash £12.25 / 200ml, 3.MONU, Vitru Energy Rub £15.00 / 150ml, 3.SHAVEWORKS, The Cool Fix £31.00 / 156ml, 4.YVES SAINT LAURANT, La Nuit de L’Homme £43.00 / 60ml, 5.YVES SAINT LAURANT, L’Homme £43.00 / 60ml, 6.GOLDWELL, Dualsenses FOR MEN Hair and Body Shampoo £31.00 / 156ml, 7.MURAD, Clarifying Mask £35.00 / 75g

www.glossybox.co.uk


BEAUTYintroducing:

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T

aking over the underworld, Illamasqua have it all. As a brand they pride themselves in producing professional makeup, for your alter ego! With make up artist Alex Box working with them and the brand selling a variety of makeup, going from neutrals to high impact blue lips, there is no reason for you not to love this brand. Founded in 2008, this brand are set for amazing things, inspired by underground club culture the brand prides itself in making products for people who’s expression through makeup comes first. The brand have built a foundation that stretches through the alternative scene and because of this have an almost cult like following, whether it be for their new collections or for a young guy who wants to use a black liner. With a number of products becoming fast favourites within the makeup industry it only has to mean bigger and better things for the brand. The products are great, their ethos is great, what more could you want? Try Illamasqua Raven MASQUARA (£15.50), for that bold eye and add some of the brands highly pigmented POWDER EYE SHADOW (£15.50), in the shade Vapour to be right on trend.


BEAUTYintroducing:

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uys listen up; it’s time to meet the bulldog. We know you men are always on the look out for that simple skin care routine that is going to give you that time to head out the door those 5 minutes early. Well Bulldog skin care is here to make that happen. Bulldog has created an all-natural line of male skin care for people who care about what they are putting on their skin. You will not find any harsh chemicals here, just products that work, filled with unique essential oil blends and natural active ingredients. Try the Original Moisturizer (£6.99) packed with green tea and green algae to hydrate that tired skin, or for those days after a heavy night, have a go with the Original Eye Roll-On (£9.99), avocado oil and Brazilian ginseng extract will reduce puffy eyes and give you that well rested look. Purchase Bull Dog Skincare from: www.meetthebulldog.com


BEAUTYtrends:

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AHEAD OF THE

GAME

With every brand bringing out a natural eye shadow palette filled with browns and champagnes it is easy to see that this season shows the rise of the neutral smokey eye. Ever wanted to create a simple eye look that can be work friendly but amped up for a night out? Well Faction ‘Ahead of the Game’ is here to help.

2) Next you want to blend a darker brown into your crease above your lid, you want to focus the colour on the outer half of your eye. Leave the look here for the daytime or if you like the subtle look.

3) To intensify your eyes, you are going to want to apply a very dark brown or black in to your You can do this look before or after your foun- crease, but this time focusing on the outer forth dation, it’s up to you! Start with a clean lid and of your eye, think of this as an accent. Make grab your favorite shadows. We used the Illa- sure this is blended; we want all the colour’s to masqua Neutral Palette (Illamasqua.com £30) fade into one another. but a cheaper alternative would be MUA’s 4) Apply a champagne shade to your inner corHeaven & Earth Palette (Superdrug £4). ner and brow bone to highlight; this is going to 1) Apply a shimmery bronze colour to your lid; draw people to your eyes. Then line with eyeyou want this shadow to be one or two shades liner and add mascara and the look is complete! darker than your skin tone. After applying, Good Luck! blend out any harsh lines.

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BEAUTYtrends:

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NEON NAILS

Fads come and go, but painted nails will always be on trend. This season it’s time to bring out those brights, think pastel mint for those days at the office, or rock neon fuschia for a night on the town. Also, Glitter is back. If a full hand is too much sparkle for you try layering glitter on your ring finger as an accent nail. Try OPI’s ‘did it on ‘em’ for a pop of green with ‘metallic 4 life’ for that touch of sparkle. Purchase OPI at: www.lenawhite.co.uk


BEAUTYtrends:

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PAPER

SELF

Bold lashes have always been an integral part of any makeup look; striking eyes with piercing black accents have to be a girl’s best friend. New kids on the block, PAPERSELF, a company producing and exploring eco friendly ways to use paper have now created lashes that will not only give the wow factor but are also intricately produced pieces of art. These false eye lashes act exactly the same way as ones you may have used in the past but these are delicate and decorative jewellery for the eyes. As seen on last year’s X Factor, the lashes come in over ten designs and come infused with symbolic meaning, choose the Peach Blossom design for Love and Romance or rock the Spider design to show off a Mysterious Power. Coming in two sizes and now available all over the world, PAPERSELF Paper Lashes are taking over the beauty world one lash at a time. Available online from www.paperselfstore.com and now also at www.asos.com


BEAUTYtrends:

CORAL

FLUSH

Summer wouldn’t be summer without a warm glow to the skin. This season try switching to a coral blush not only will this give you a sunkissed look but will enliven your skin with a healthy glow. Use Benefit’s ‘Coralista’ for that flush of warmth (£23.50 at Boots), or Sleek’s powder blush in ‘Life’s a Peach’ (£4.30 at Superdrug) for a cheeky bargain. Add a pop of colour to your everyday makeup by using a coral or warmer toned lip stick, Try MAC’s ‘Viva Glam Nicki’ (£13.50 House of Fraser) for an intense bold statement or try Revlon’s lip butter in ‘Peach Parfait’ (£6.99 Boots) for a sheer glossy pout.

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THE CREATIVE TEAM AT FACTION MAGAZINE WOULD LIKE TO THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ THE INTRODUCTION ISSUE. WE HOPE YOU ENJOYED IT AS MUCH AS WE ENJOYED CREATING IT, JOIN WITH US, SUBMIT, AND TAKE PART. HELP US TO CONTINUE SPREADING THE WORD. LETS WORK TOGETHER.




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