FAD Magazine Vol. 3 No. 2 by Horace Mann FAD Magazine

FASHION/ART/DESIGN HORACE MANN SCHOOL VOL. 3 NO. 2 WINTER 2012

The Elements of Style the junior issue

The Science of Beauty Steve Jobs: The Artist Fashion Show Preview

Exclusive Interview with Tory Burch

EDITORS’ NOTE

ollowing the death of Steve Jobs, futuristic Spring 2012 collections by famous fashion designers, and the overwhelming amount of recent technological innovations; science and technology seemed to be an absolutely relevant theme for this issue of FAD. We were all excited to get down to business and explore the integration of fashion, art, design, and technology. This issueís release coincides with FADís annual Fashion Show Fundraiser on February 3rd. As the theme for the show is geometry, we strove to incorporate geometric and minimalist looks into the photoshoots. As the board for this issue consists of 10 editors, we were at first concerned that all our ideas would clash, but after the first meeting we realized that we were all in sync and excited about this theme. The photoshoots went on without a hitch. Our beauty shoot returns to natural science with make-up looks inspired by the four basic elements, while the FAD fashion show preview and our feature shoot, Fly Me to the Moon, look forward to modern and futuristic fashions. The content of the issue discusses the relevant changes in fashion, art, and design. We hope you enjoy reading this issue of FAD as much as we have enjoyed creating it. Stay FADulous!

In our post-modern world, thanks to characters like Steve Jobs and Bill Gates, you can’t walk down a New York City street without seeing an iPhone in hand or a high tech contraption in a store window. Science and technology infiltrates our everyday lives, and has changed each aspect of our culture. Our world is forever interconnected, for the better or the worse. Fashion is no longer what it was 10 years ago; art movements continue to change in order to keep up with new technologies; and the design world has taken on projects beyond anyone’s imagination. As the creative realms start to move full throttle into the future, FAD is taking its next step forward along its side. For this issue we brought together ten eager juniors to take on the task of working together as co-editors. They had the responsibility to learn what it is like to take an idea from start to reality, and they definitely succeeded. After months of hard work, we present to you Vol. 3 No. 2, The Junior Issue. We want to ensure that we leave FAD in the hands of capable and talented students next year, and as you will see from the following science and technology themed articles and photoshoots, we are confident that FAD will continue to thrive after we leave.

Baci Weiler Co-Editor in Chief

Rachel Scheinfeld Co-Editor in Chief

- The Junior Editors

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*table of contents

Cover: Kylie Logan ‘14; photo by Jackson Siegal ‘14. Opposite page: from left: Cynthia Irobunda ‘14; photo by Gina Yu ‘14. James Ruben ‘12 & Jordan Berman ‘12; photo by Gina Yu ‘14 (also back cover). Kylie Logan ‘14; photo by Jackson Siegal ‘14. Digital editing by Seth Arar ‘12 & Aramael Peña-Alcántara ‘12. Beauty by Rachel Buissereth ‘13.

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THE JUNIOR ISSUE Co-Editors-In-Chief Rachel Scheinfeld and Bathsheba Weiler JUNIOR ISSUE EDITORS Creative Director Noah Margulis Production Manager Veronica Williamson Managing Editor Anna Carroll Beauty Editor Rachel Buissereth Features Editor Emma Garcia Associate Editors ShaKea Alston, Paige Burris, Lauren Cantor Special Reports Editor Julia Hirschberg Media Coordinator Diana Rheinstein Copy Editors Michelle Kim, Edie Comas, Julia Pretsfelder Assistant Production Manager Gina Yu SENIOR BOARD Production Manager Seth Arar Features Editor Anna Goldberg Shoot Coordinators Lia Ehrlich and Chloe Albanese Architecture and Design Editor Billie Kanfer SENIOR STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS Olivia Chigas, Lily Sands, Kim Sarnoff, Ella Landesberg Junior Editors Alex Vogelsang, Jessica Heller, Shinil Kim, Mihika Kapoor CONTRIBUTORS + STAFF Georgie Bonondona, Diva Gattani, Rachel Ha, Natalie Imamura, Rachel Kline, Maia Landesberg, Halle Liebman, Kylie Logan, Allison Malin, Florence Ngala, Savannah Smith, Julia Mark, Libby Smilovici, Karen Shim, Allie Segel, Charlotte Chazen, Cece Glatt, Miranda Jacoby, James Ruben, Jordan Berman, Cynthia Irobunda, Rebecca Shaw, Gabrielle Reid, Sophie Levy, Hannah Fink, Lucy Golub, Nicole Fortune, Amanda Zhou, Drew McCann, Chase Kauder, Sarah Fels, Andie Fialkoff Faculty Advisor Alicia Hines We would like to thank Ms. Hines, Dr. Kelly, Ms. Rubirosa, Mr. Do, Mr. Logan, Ms. Busby, Ms. Cassino, Dr. Delanty, and Dr. Schiller for their continuous support in the creation of FAD!

PLEASE NOTE: As a policy, FAD never digitally alters photos to fundamentally change a modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appearance, including body image and color. FAD only removes minor blemishes and adjusts lighting values at the discretion of the editors and the models themselves. Digital editing, including the use of Adobe Photoshop, is credited where utilized.

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F D A

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BEHIND THE SCENES

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SPONGE*

WE ABSORB CULTURE

f.a.d. recommends you check out these quick current culture fixes.

WATCH IT HOW TO (REALLY) MAKE IT IN AMERICA How to Make It in America is a comedydrama How to series Makethat It in America premiered is aon comedyHBO in February drama seriesof that 2010.premiered It is produced on HBO by Stephen in February Levinson of 2010. and ItMark is produced Wahlberg, by the masterminds Stephen Levinsonbehind and Mark Entourage. Wahlberg, This show the masterminds follows thebehind characters Entourage. throughThis the streetsfollows show of Newthe York characters City, as they through set out the to makeofnames streets New York for themselves, City as theysearch set outfor to their souls, make namesand for themselves, look for their search niches forintheir the Big Apple. souls, and look for their niches in the Big Apple Theas theme fashion song, designers. “I Need a Dollar,” by Aloe TheBlacc theme setssong, the tone “I Need as viewers a Dollar,” watch by Ben Epstein Aloe Blacc sets (Bryan the tone Greenberg), as viewers andwatch Cam Calderon Ben Epstein, (Victor played Rasuk), by Bryan hustleGreenberg, their way to the and CamAmerican Calderon, dream. played by Ben Victor andRasuk, Cam work together hustle their way to tothe create American a fresh, dream. young, Ben and Cam hip brand work together that could to create be carried a fresh, by stores and young, suchhip asbrand Barney’s. that could Theirbebuddies carried Kappo, by storesplayed such as by Barney’s, Eddie the Kay store Thomas, where and Domingo, Ben previouslyplayed worked. by none Their other buddies than Kid Cudi, Kappo, played closely by Eddie resemble Kay Thomas, the crewand of Entourage.played Domingo, Though by none How other to Make thanItKid in America Cudi himself, lacks the closely glamour resemble of Entourage, the crew theEntourage. of charactersThough still like Howpartying. to Make It Ben in and Camlacks America run into the glamour trouble left of Entourage, and right, whether the characters it is with still girlfriends like partying and hard exesand or with Cam’s having a good cousin, time.Rene, Through who is all trying their to promote failures and successes, his energy Ben and drink, Cam“Rasta never Monsta.” fail to showThrough that brosall come their before failures business. and successes, They run Ben into andmany Cam never problems fail to show with that bros and producers come buyers, before giving business. a close They look run into into the harshness many problems of the fashion with producers industry. anda small, As buyers,new giving brand, a close they struggle look into to find the harshness people thatofwill the take fashion them industry. seriouslyBeing and a new brand represent them. theyThroughout struggle to the findprocess, people that will both Bentake andthem Camseriously keep their and heads represent up. them. Throughout Though HBO decided thetoprocess, cancel the bothshow, Ben and Cam which disappointed keep theirmany heads viewers, up. IAs highly the twenty-something-year-olds recommend turning on HBO and arecatching finally readyreruns some to tackle or buying the the monstrous season onfashion iTunes. industry, -JULIA HIRSCHBERG HBO decided ‘13 to cancel the show, which disappointed many viewers. It was such a harsh way to cut viewers off from a show that could fill the hole in their hearts where Entourage used to be. Cam and Ben were just starting to make it in the big city.

LISTEN UP

SEE IT UNVEIL THE REAL &

THE ICON AND THE PEA: WILL.I.AM Aside from his popularity and success in the music industry, Black Eyed Peas member Will.I.Am is a wellrenowned style icon. Prior to his successful music streak, he attended the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles. His fashion debut was in 2001, when the artist commenced his own clothing line, I. Am. The line first showed at the Magic Apparel Trade Show in Las Vegas in 2005. Two years later, Will.I.Am collaborated with Blue Holdings Antik Denim Collection to design the line I. Am Antik, a premium denim collection; he later went back to his original clothing line I. Am in collaboration with new partners. The website to his latest line, http://www.iamclothing. net/, introduces shoppers with his clothing line logo, music and the quote “I am me, you are you. Feel good about it.” His funky retro style is manifested in his collection. The clothing in the collection ranges from stylish denim jeans and nylon jackets to cotton sweaters and duffle bags. The collection also features other snazzy pieces of clothing such as an asymmetrical military S jacket. Will.I.Am receives most of his inspiration for his clothing from today’s youth. In an interview with David Lackie from the Weekend Post in Toronto, Canada, Will.I.Am said he specially admires the hip-hop dance culture in Japan and is inspired by the Japnese youth. -VIVIEN IKWUAZOM ‘13

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THE SURREAL

Real/Surreal is a mind-boggling new exhibit at the Whitney Museum in Manhattan. The exhibit displays works of art that show the connection between Realism and Surrealism. Essentially, the exhibit displays the connection between the world around us and imagination and the distortion of our world. One work in the exhibit, La Fortune by Man Ray, shows an everyday object, a table, in a world similar to but noticeably different from our own. The most noticeable difference between the worlds is that the clouds are not only white but also, red, blue, green, orange, and yellow. Real/Surreal displays art that questions the stability of the world around us by showing the relationship between what we see in our everyday life and our imaginations. The New York Times proclaimed the exhibit “marvelous” and compared it to “visiting your grandmother’s attic and finding it loaded with forgotten treasures.” An apt comparison as all the works belong to the Whitney’s permanent collection but have been re-installed by curator Carter Foster. Real/Surreal shows the need of artists to break free of their restraints, such as financial insecurity that is parallel to the economic insecurity felt today by many. The exhibit is on display from October 6th to February 12th at the Whitney Museum of American Art on 74th and Madison Avenue. Make sure to check it out before it leaves! -ANNA CARROLL ‘13

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GET INVOLVED WATCH IT FLY HIGH WITH PAN AM

Among the frenzy of new shows that debuted last September was ABC’s costume drama, Pan Am. The show revolves around four young flight attendants based in New York in the 1960s, each with her own individual background and subplot. There’s Maggie Ryan (Christina Ricci), who is the purser of the flight crew; she is spunky, sarcastic and rebellious. Margot Robbie stars as Laura Cameron, who at the beginning of the series runs away from her wedding to be a Pan Am stewardess with her sister Kate (Kelli Garner). Kate probably has the most complicated and important subplot of the series. She works as a stewardess, but doubles as a spy. Finally, my personal favorite, Colette Valois (Karine Vanasse) a French woman, was orphaned at the age of three during the German Occupation. Throughout the beginning of the series she and Captain Dean Lowrey (Mike Vogel) have a flirtatious relationship. They face challenges because of Dean’s ex-girlfriend, Bridget (Annabelle Wallis). The show has been called “the Mad Men of the skies” because of its time period. Pan Am is a romanticized account of the 1960s with lots of sparkle. It has gotten many mixed reviews, from both critics and viewers alike. Personally, I am a huge aficionado of the show, but reviews range anywhere from “most notable for its mile-high mediocrity” to a “soapy guilty pleasure” But despite the criticism the show receives, the styling is praised for bringing forth the “essence of the 60s.” -GINA YU ‘14

MIUCCIA PRADA AND ELSA SCHIAPARELLI STEP INTO THE MET Following on the heels of the victorious Alexander McQueen exhibit, the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute aims to equally wow its audiences with its upcoming “Elsa Schiaparellia and Miuccia Prada: On Fashion” exhibit this spring. The show, inspired by Miguel Covarrubias’ “Impossible Interviews” in Vanity Fair, will feature a fictive conversation between Schiaparellia and Prada, covering intellectual topics such as art, politics, and creativity in an attempt to portray their views on the relationship between culture and fashion. Elsa Schiaparelli (1890- 1973), dubbed “Schiap”, was a highly regarded Italian fashion designer. Her designs were influenced by Surrealism, and highlighted the constituents of surprise and abrupt juxtapositions. Schiaparelli’s collection began with graphic knitwear with surrealist tromp l’oeil depictions, or extremely realistic images which had the ability to appear three dimensional, such as her shirt which made it seem as if the wearer was sporting a scarf. Her collection expanded to include bathing suits, skiwear, and linen dresses. Schiaparelli closed her business in 1954 after she returned to Paris at the end of the war between Germany and France and realized that her designs did not meet the changes in fashion that the war had engendered. Miuccia Prada, born in 1949, inherited her family’s luxury goods business founded by her grandfather in 1913, which she transformed into a fashion

powerhouse adopting Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, and Church & Co. The Italian fashion designer expanded Prada’s range of goods to shoes, fragrances, and apparel for both men and women. Prada created Miu Miu, which she named after her sobriquet. She was given the Council of Fashion Designers of American International Award, symbolizing her significant impact in the fashion industry. Prada is known for her ability to combine comfort, chicness, and her minimalist views to create understated and evocative apparel. The triumph of the Alexander McQueen show raised audiences’ standards for costume exhibitions. The MET hopes to receive equally as positive feedback for “Elsa Schiaparellia and Miuccia Prada: On Fashion”. -CHARLOTTE CHAZEN ‘15

GET THIS Libby Smilovici ‘15 Fashionable Furniture

GET THIS FASHIONABLE FURNITURE Design Within Reach (DWR) produces sleek furniture that incorporates design and fashion at reasonable prices. Their furniture displays many aspects of modern design such as precise lines, geometric shapes and minimalism. Many DWR designers attended universities to study modern design. How people interact in spaces contributes heavily to the furniture they craft. What appeals to us as consumers is much more than putting a price tag on an item. It displays our interests, style and ultimately, a sector of who we are. -LIBBY SMILOVICI ‘15

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BUSTIER ON ITS WAY

CIRCLE UP The classic 50’s and 60’s couture silhouettes of Dior and Balenciaga have circled their way back to the 2012 collections.

Jil Sand

Jil Sander

itto

u is V

Rick Owens

Prada

Dolce & Gabbana

Many designers showed retro-style bras worn as tops, often paired with a pencil or flared skirt.

TREND AROUND THE BEND a

“A lot of times we live in the future or the past, and we forget to be present.” —Rachel Roy 8

What will you be wearing this spring? by Noah Margulis ‘13

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FLOWER POWER

BLACK + WHITE

PEPLUM PUNCH

Gareth Pugh

PRETTY PASTELS

horace mann school | winter 2012 | vol. 3 no. 2

Chanel

3.1 Phillip Lim

Sorbet hues are available in every flavor this season, especially without the toppings.

Giorgio Armani

Tops and jackets flared with spunk from peplum waists, a look that flatters any woman.

Jason Wu

Carolina Herrera

The ultimate color contradiction made many appearances: White looked super-crisp, especially when accented with bold black.

Altuzarra

Peter Som

Spring sprung early with hyperbright floral prints that made their way into the collections of many esteemed designers.

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REVIEWS

Objectified Chase Kauder ‘17 reviews one of a documentary trilogy about one’s subconscious relationship with design.

Jeffrey Campbell Sarah Fels ‘12 explores the motivation for Jeffrey Campbell’s super-modern shoe designs.

ny adjective used to describe contemporary fashion in the past decade can apply to Jeffrey Campbell’s architectural, studded, and strappy shoes. Since starting in Los Angeles ten years ago, the company’s objective has been to combine vintage and modern styles to make footwear for a modern woman. Even though the company updates a Tumblr account daily with images of inspiration that include innovative professional photographs and high fashion ads from brands like Celine and Prabal Gurung, the brand takes pride in really getting to know the modern woman on the go, at work, and in everything she does in order to create awe-inspiring footwear women to wear in everyday life. The Tumblr also includes photo-blogs about women on the go and amateur fashion forward styles. Additionally, the @JCshoes Twitter account has the quote, “SHOES THAT WILL MAKE YOU WORK... no, I mean...WOOOOOOORK” in its bio section, further reminding followers of the brand’s playfulness. Today, Jeffrey Campbell shoes are featured on some of the most popular fashion forward websites like Nasty Gal, Urban Outfitters and Polyvore.

bjectified is the second part of a three-part documentary by Gary Hustwit. The documentary reveals that we develop a subconscious relationship with our everyday objects, and, by extension, with the designer of an object. It explains how each object has a face or an expression in our own minds. When someone tries to change the look and expression of the object, the object may have a different expression to us. We may like or dislike this “new expression”. Objectified proposes that every object we use and have is a form of self-expression. The film is about how objects have a certain design to provide convenience and may have a more complex evolved design than we realize. Designs develop for a practical reason, but, as products evolve, objects don’t have to be designed in the same way. Despite this, many products retain their original designs. The film documents the whole creative process of some of the world’s most influential designers and redesigners. From questioning the design of a toothpick, to the shape of a camera, these designers look back in the evolutionary history of objects. According to the movie, there is a growing awareness that the earth is being filled with garbage, and that sooner or later most of today’s welldesigned products will end up in landfills. The film explains that there is a need for sustainability for products that will “wear in.” In this industry, Everything is eventually planned to look like “the old thing” because the “new thing” will look different. For instance, one can tell which iPhones are older by their rounded edges, by making the older phone look outdated, consumers will want to buy the new one. This is a tactic used for profit and not sustainability. However this tactic is not acceptable anymore; we have to keep in mind that everything we make will be disposed at one point. Many people do not realize that as they look at an object they are consciously and subconsciously judging it. It cannot be helped. After, seeing the documentary Objectified by Gary Hustwit, one will not be able to stop thinking about the messages it presented. One will start paying more attention to the everyday items that surround us in our lives, questioning whether or not they are necessary, and asking oneself how one became attached to them in the first place.

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REVIEWS

TAG Gallery Gina Yu ‘14 reviews one of NYC’s newest galleries run by, and featuring art by, teenagers just like you.

homas P. Campbell, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s director and chief curator, is nearing fifty years old. Barry Bergdoll, the chief curator of the Museum of Modern Art, is in his midfifties. Audrey Banks, the founder, director and curator of TAG (Teen Art Gallery), is seventeen. The gallery was based at the New York Open Center last year in Manhattan, with works of art created by thirty-eight young artists between the ages of twelve and nineteen. In an article in The New York Times last July, Sonja Tsypin, who attends the same school as Audrey and helped coordinate the gallery said, “The whole idea of it being run by young people is what makes it so special, and very much a sanctuary. We’re creating our own rules and standards for art. Everything we stand for is flowing through it.” The goal of the gallery is essentially to display the creativity and capability of teenagers without being shadowed by the

art giants of the world. The gallery mission statement states, For some youngadults, the art world– full of white walls, art dealers and established artists–can be intimidating. We may have difficulty approaching this world even if we are well endowed in both maturity and talent. Our difficulty is partly due to the lack of knowledge that coincides with the limiting environment assigned to us because of our age. T.A.G.’s goal is to eliminate this limitation when present and provide fellow teenaged-students with the opportunity to take part in displaying their works in a gallery. T.A.G. reaches out to all young artists so that they are not alone in figuring out the process of showing their work in a gallery setting. Many teenagers are immensely talented and sophisticated in their use of techniques, such that their place in a gallery is beyond well deserved. The gallery itself is very well-organized and professional. It is “[r]eally not a

dumbed-down gallery for kids,” said Mr. Slonim, a sixteen-year-old junior at Hunter College High School. “It’s very serious. That’s one of the great things about having people our age run it. People are going to be taken more seriously by people our own age.” The team that determines the artwork chosen to be placed in the annual gallery is determined largely by a group of high schoolers, save some from NYU. Their gallery has been featured on Project Runway, Paper Mag, Art Net, and The New York Times. The submissions deadline for this year was February 1st, but I am sure that there will be many successful years to come for this gallery. However, there will be a one night showing labelled “Unseen Artist Event” in Soho, with profits going to charity along with the normal gallery showing in May. So if you are an art aficionado, go check out their website: teenartgallery.org.

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PROFILES

Check out some of the hottest new artists whose work embodies technology’s impact on fashion and design.

gerry mckay

by Lucy Golub '15

witter, Facebook, and shoes. Which of the three doesn’t belong? None, thanks to Gerry McKay, a Scottish web designer who designed the “Adidas Twitter and Facebook Superstars.” To celebrate the 35th anniversary of the Adidas Superstars, the recognizable lace up basketball shoe with three stripes along the side, Adidas released a limited edition collection. Gerry McKay said, “I thought it would be interesting to see what it would look like if Adidas also released a limited edition Twitter/Facebook Superstar, so I worked on my own design of the shoe.” McKay combined Twitter’s bird, blue, and bubbly fonts with the timeless Adidas trainer to create a one-of-a-kind design. His Facebook shoe features the Facebook’s colors and insignia, as well as its slogan, printed on the inside of the shoe. Although this prototype will never get past the design stage, the Facebook and Twitter integrate technology and fashion, showing that Facebook and Twitter are a part of this generation, right down to our very shoes! iner to create a one-of-a-kind design. His Facebook shoe features the Facebook’s colors and insignia, as well as its slogan, printed on the inside of the shoe. Although this prototype will never get past the design stage, the Facebook and Twitter integrate technology and fashion, showing that Facebook and Twitter are a part of this generation, right down to our very shoes! in order to create a one-of-a-kind design. His Facebook shoe features the Facebook’s colors and insignia, as well as its slogan, printed on the inside of the shoe.

manel torres

by Sophie Levy '14

n 2003, Manel Torres established Fabrican Ltd in partnership with Professor Paul Luckham. Born in Catalonia, Spain, Torres was drawn to fashion at a young age, learning how to sew, tailor garments, and pattern-cut when he was just a boy. In 1995, while studying at the Royal College of Art in Fashion Women’s Wear, Manel Torres founded the idea of “Spray-On Fabric,” a spray-able fabric that comes from an aerosol can. Torres obtained his PhD at the Royal College of Art. While he was studying there, he partnered up with Professor Paul Luckham. Together in 2003, in collaboration with Imperial College London, they established Fabrican Ltd; Torres’s official role in the company is Managing Director. Through his frustration at the slow process of making garments, Manel Torres discovered and invented spray-on fabric. Manel’s vision was to create a material that would fit to the body like a second skin and also have the utility and appearance of clothing. The idea began with Torres formulating a sample fabric made from cotton fibers sprayed with paint. Realizing that more scientific involvement and approach was needed, Manel turned to the guidance of Imperial College London. The fabric created and used today is made using glue, cotton fibers, polymers (plastic bits that hold the cotton fibers together), and solvents. The solution can be sprayed right on to the body. The product is a thin, wearable article of clothing that can be reworn and washed. The article of clothing can also be dissolved and reused to make something new. Torres’ work shows the potential of the combination of fashion and technology. With the use of science, Torres is able to create beautiful clothing without even sewing a stitch or cutting a single yard of fabric.

Gerry McKay designed a limited-edition collection of shoes based on the most influential social media sites on the internet—Facebook and Twitter (shown here).

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2NE1

PROFILES

by Amanda Zhou '14

NE1 (pronounced 21) is a well-known South Korean hip-hop girl group founded by YG Entertainment. Their first debut was in May of 2009, and they have grown to a huge extent since then. The group consists of four members: CL, the leader, is known to express spunk and sass on stage. Minzy, the dancer, is confident and fierce. Park Bom, the sweet vocal, presents a lovely side when she hits the high-pitch tunes. Sandara, the youngest of the girls, portrays the sweet side of the group. The name, 2NE1, represents the ‘New Evolution of the 21st Century.” Throughout the past couple years, they have became a huge success in South Korea. They debuted in Japan during September of 2011 with multiple successful singles and are planning on an upcoming album for February 2012. 2NE1 also visited America with the assistance of Will.I.Am., the lead rapper in the Black Eyed Peas. Later, 2NE1 won the MTV Iggy Award for their recent single, “I Am The Best”, which gave them a chance to perform in New York City on December 12, 2011. Although

2NE1 first appeared only three years ago, the girls have clearly proven that their popularity will not diminish any time soon. Commercially, the girl group has become associated with some designers and clothing brands to their marketable position in society. 2NE1 has displayed the costumes of the American fashion designer, Jeremy Scott, in several music videos. This esteemed dressmaker has designed for Madonna, Rihanna, Kanye West, Beyoncé, Katy Perry, Justin Timberlake, Nicki Minaj, Lindsay Lohan, Britney Spears, Lady Gaga, and many more pop-culture stars in America. Jeremy Scott has a renowned sense of fashion, varying from Lego® jewelry to winged shoes. His styles are always finalized with a new, engaging design, completely different from his last season. By donning Jeremy Scott’s clothing and many other remarkable garments, 2NE1, has made a huge fashion statement in Korea, and whether the theme is leather and punk or modern and classy, they will never leave the stage forgotten.

hussein chalayan Nicole Fortune '15 & Hannah Fink '15

ussein Chalayan, the internationally known fashion designer with a futuristic style, is famous for his use of pattern cutting, materials, structure, and progressive technology. As a child, becoming a fashion designer wasn’t a priority. Chalayan told Designboom in an interview that his dream was to be “a hairdresser, then a pilot, then an actor, then an architect and then a fashion designer.” He went to school in Cyprus and London, currently residing in the latter. In 1993 he graduated from London’s St. Martins College of Art and Design and has since twice earned the British Designer of the Year award. He takes inspiration from architectural theories, science, and technology. “I like to be inspired by other sources [not magazines or other designers], by seeing other visual things, by things that don’t necessarily relate to my world so much,” Chalayan explained in an interview. One of his well-known collections, from 2000, included tables and chairs that morphed into the garments themselves right in front of the audience: his “table dress” began with a plain round brown table with a hole in the middle; a model stepped into the hole and began to lift the hole, revealing layers from the inside that became a skirt. Chalayan has created costumes for operas and dance performances, and his work has been featured in many museums, such as the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and MOMA in New York. He was recently appointed Creative Director of Asprey and of TSE New York. He has also designed capsule collections for

Topshop, Marks & Spencer, and has worked with J Brand Jeans. So how did this Turkish designer earn the moniker “the fashion world’s mad scientist”? It’s likely due to his ingenious yet quirky collections, which feature the fluid integration of technology into the garment industry. An audience sat in awe at Fashion Week in Paris, October 2008, as Hussein Chalayan presented his idea of fashion through the 20th century. The models walked the runway, showcasing his more conventional designs, until suddenly one model stopped, standing still. The crowd held its breath as the sleeves on a 1920s-era creamy peach gown curled themselves inward, the collar curled itself outwards, the zipper down the front unzipped, and the hem rose up to create a basic 1940s shift dress - a completely different look, from a completely different time, all in the span of 20 seconds. The highlight of the show, was when one of his pieces left the model entirely naked, as her outfit was pulled upward into her hat! Chalayan has been featured in magazines such as Vogue, and his works span fifteen years in a collection at the Design Museum in London. He has been worn by superstars such as Katy Perry, Jennifer Lopez, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Lady Gaga. Gaga and her stylist, Nicola Formichetti, collaborated with Chalayan to create her famous egg ensemble for the 53rd Annual Grammy Awards. Without question, we can all say Hussein Chalayan is changing and influencing the fashion world as we know it today.

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INTERVIEWS

Tory Burch CeCe Glatt ‘13 interviews iconic fashion designer Tory Burch about her inspiration and life as a designer.

Who is the biggest influence in your life? My parents. Did your parents encourage your zeal for fashion? Absolutely. My father had great style and often designed his own clothes, and my mother is always effortlessly chic. My design team and I often reference photos of them from the 60s and 70s.

Burch is famous for her accessible, high-class designs, marked by her recognizable logo.

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What was your earliest design? Our first design was a tunic, which was inspired by a silhouette I found in a Parisian flea market. We update and modernize it each season.

After Oprah Winfrey endorsed your brand, was it a defining moment for you as a designer? It was beyond anything I could have imagined. The day after it aired, our website had 8 million hits. We are so grateful for Oprah’s support. Have a unique

India, Thailand — and of course Italy. I traveled there with my parents growing up and now take my boys. Do you have any tips for girls who are aspiring to be a designer? Have a unique idea, focus and always follow through.

What is one thing that people may not know about you? I have loved needlepoint ever since my father taught me when I was young. It’s been an inspiration for handbags, coats and shoes in our collection. Madison Avenue is home to the most well known top designers, how do you feel about your opening of Tory Burch on Madison Avenue? It was always a dream of mine to open a store on Madison Avenue. Walking into the finished space for the first time was definitely emotional.

idea, focus, and always follow through.

What are some of your new favorite trends? For spring, I love that so many designers channeled the Twenties in different ways, from minimal to embellished looks. There are a lot of cool eclectic prints as well. Pink and orange seem to be colors that are prominent throughout your brand, are those your two favorite color combinations? I love many different color combinations, including unusual mixes that seemingly don’t go together. Orange has been my favorite color since I was young.

When you are designing do you focus on selling to a specific age? If so which age? Our customers are multi-generational. We strive to design a variety chic, timeless pieces that women of all ages want to wear.

Do each of your stores interiors have the same design theme, or did you have a unique design for each of them? Our boutiques share a common feel — orange lacquer doors, Lucite and brass — but each store has different elements that reflect its location and make it unique.

Where is your favorite place to travel to? It would be impossible to choose just one. I love Morocco,

If you could meet anyone historic who would it be? Henri Matisse.

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INTERVIEWS

Tom Mora J.Crew Vice-President Anna Carroll '13 & Edie Comas '14 talk with Head Designer of Women’s Fashion and soon to be Vice-President of J.Crew

How did you get involved/become interested in fashion? My parents were very fashionable when I was young. They always dressed up and dressed my sister and me very nicely. I knew I wanted to do something art related but my passion for fashion won out. I took as many art classes in high school as I could and enrolled in Parsons after high school. Why did you choose to work at J.Crew? I went to Parsons with Jenna Lyons and we bumped into each other in Paris and she reached out to me soon after. I have always loved J.Crew and thought it would be a great fit and opportunity. What does a typical day as head of women’s design look like? Well, there are lots and lots of meetings. Touch bases with different teams, open issues and fittings take up a huge part of my day. I also see many print and fabric appointments daily.

Top: Tom Mora, VP of J.Crew. Bottom: Mora’s sketch for the Kate Middleton wedding dress contest.

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Do you have any advice for someone trying to get involved in the fashion business? Go to college and learn the craft. There are many celebrities that have fashion labels but have really no idea what really goes into designing. Listen and learn. Be patient and dedicated... fashion is a lot of fun buts it’s also a huge amount of work.

The theme for this issue is science and technology. Are there any special ways J.Crew uses either science or technology to design or operate? I think the biggest way I utilize We are in the business of making technology is through fabric. It is beautiful and timeless clothing, amazing the things that are being achieved.

which is always on trend.

How do you stay ahead of the trends and make sure J.Crew is on par with the latest fashion? If you follow your instincts you will always be ahead of the curve. I also try not to worry about trends...we are in the business of making beautiful and timeless clothing, which is always on trend. Ice cream or frozen yogurt? Vanilla ice cream.

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INTERVIEWS

David Jacoby of InFashion Miranda Jacoby ‘13 talks with David Jacoby—lawyer, HM grad, and father—about the intersection between law and fashion.

What impact did your schooling have on your decision to become a lawyer? I was on the debating team and The Record, so I did a lot of speaking and writing at Horace Mann, and now I do a lot of speaking and writing as a lawyer. I took a Constitutional Law course at Princeton and I think that clinched it. Exactly what type of work do you do? I’m a litigator, which means I handle disputes people have, sometimes in court, sometimes in arbitration. Many matters don’t wind up going to trial, but there’s a lot of work involved in developing a theory for a case, obtaining evidence through a process called discovery, and getting decisions on legal issues from the court.

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Jacoby writes for InFashion, a newsletter on news related to fashion and law.

goods, design, marketing, and retailing, particularly if they involve intellectual property. Along with Judy Roth (a double Horace Mann parent), I write a lot of and edit InFashion.

How did you enter into the world of fashion? I could say I grew up with What’s in store for the next issue designer neighbors – Ralph of InFashion? Lauren grew up in the The winter issue leads off with our take same part of The Bronx on ten top trends for 2012, including The winter issue leads off with – but in fact it was much the growing role of online and mobile more accidental. About 15 technologies and the deepening linkage our take on ten top trends for years ago I began handling between fashion and museum art. We 2012, including the growing trademark infringement have an in-depth look at a major shakecases for fashion clients. Over up of the Internet domain name system role of online and mobile time, that work expanded that’s going to start mid-January when technologies and the deepening to include other intellectual applications will be accepted for new property work, such as generic top-level domains. Instead linkage between fashion and copyrights, trade dress, trade of just a handful of terms like .com or secrets, reputation, publicity, .org, it will be possible to apply to have museum art. and privacy rights, as well as almost any word, in any language, as anti-counterfeiting work for the part of the domain name to the U.S. and foreign clients. More right of the dot. That’s going to have a recently, I’ve spent a lot of time dealing with issues raised by big impact on protecting trademarks and existing websites, on-line commerce and the Internet. even if everything goes smoothly. Some people are worried the changes may not go smoothly and that the changes may What is InFashion, and how are you involved in it? aggravate problems like phishing. Then we have some other InFashion is a quarterly newsletter my law firm, Schiff Hardin, items on naked licensing – which is lawyerese for licenses to has published in connection with the Accessories Council, an use trademarks which don’t keep quality controls in place -industry group, for more than four years. You can see all the and a new anti-fur ordinance in a California town. issues at www.schiffhardin.com/services/industries/fashionand-luxury-goods. We try to keep our readers around the Turtles, or trains? world up to date on legal issues affecting fashion, luxury I like trains.

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ARCHITECTURE

SUBJECTIVE ARCHITECTURE Seth Arar ‘12 reminds us that buildings are more than just brick or steel—there is room for a creative mind to shape the spaces you walk through every day.

Have you ever walked past a building? I’m sure you have. You’ve probably also thought a little bit about it too. Maybe you’ve noticed that it’s really tall, or has a plethora of doorways, or even that it was built in the neoclassical American style, reminiscent of William Thornton. If you have not recently walked past and pondered a building, then perhaps you should stop texting as you walk and pay more attention to the world you live in. Architecture is an art, much like sculpture and painting, but unlike the two, it must also be functional. If you’ve ever strolled past the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao or the Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, you’ve seen some exceptional works of architecture, but these two buildings, designed by Frank Gehry, are anything but functional. A quick google search can show you just how unfriendly his buildings can be. From snow falling off of the Bilbao Guggenheim to reflected sun from he Disney Concert Hall burning passers-by, Gehry only appeals to the form side of the architectural balance. Another Frank, this time Lloyd Wright, was more practical than Gehry. His beautiful structures, from the classic Fallingwater to the lesser known Robie House or Unity Church, dramatically illustrate the power that architecture can hold over the eye. Many Wright buildings do not survive time, as they were not built for that purpose. Wright imagined that they would be replaced by something better in the future, but alas, as nothing more profound than his work has been designed, many of his houses have had to be restored. Santiago Calatrava, superstar architect, designs those white bone structures. You may know him as the designer for the World Trade Center Hub. Calatrava was once a sculptor and has gained his design skills from this enterprise. But as you may or may not notice as you amble past his bridge spanning the Grand Canal in Venice, the steps are too steep and there is no wheelchair accessible ramp. Even the grandest of architects has made grievous mistakes. When you’re on said street, don’t take for granted the quality of the work. Watch with a critical eye. Being able to consider small details, such as the steepness of steps, or the entire design of the building is integral to any design initiative. I use these examples to beseech you to contemplate architecture, if not the world around you as you stroll down your daily path. Consider choices that the engineers of these grand designs have made. Reflect on the datum, wonder about the precedents, put your phones away and just look. It’ll be worth it, trust me.

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ART

t a y

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'13 on s m lia ll '13 l i w ro ica car n a ro ve & an n h t i

a d a w

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Jackson Pollock Jackson Pollock was an American abstract expressionist, famous for his unique style. Pollack used a style of “drip” painting where he would walk around and drip the paint wherever he wanted, in a state of control but also subject to the paint’s randomness. In One: Number 31 the whole painting is full of energy from the large looping lines that fill the 9 foot by 17 foot canvas. Pollock broke artistic conventions with his chaotic lines; instead of directing the viewer to recognizable, understandable shapes, he let the lines stand for themselves.

Andreas Gursky Andreas Gursky’s Bahrain 1 is a mind-boggling photograph. Aside from knowing that it is a photo of a series of roads, it is hard to tell exactly what or where it is. The perspective that this photo was taken from is what makes it confusing – but at the same time fun – to look at. Looking at the title, Bahrain 1, we realize that it is actually a famous racetrack in Bahrain. Gursky manages to abstract the image by showing it to us in a way that we normally would not see.

The MoMA’s giant collection can be intimidating, but FAD is here to help! Don’t just walk by these pieces—they’re worth a longer look.

Marcel Duchamp Marcel Duchamp was the iconic leader of Dadaism, a movement that both challenged what is considered to be art and acted as an anti-war movement from the 1920’s. Duchamp is famous for his readymades, common objects that he would elevate to the status of art. By creating readymades, he broke every rule that had previously been set for art. The Bicycle Wheel seems to be two randomly placed objects, a bicycle wheel on a stool, but can resemble a human form with a head, neck, and legs. The Bicycle Wheel may be the most well known of Duchamp’s readymades and finds its home at the MoMA.

Edward Hopper Edward Hopper was a realist who painted daily life. This painting, Gas, depicts a lone gas station attended on a road at dusk. It evokes a sense of loneliness and melancholy solitude. Hopper was one of the more modern American Realist painters of the early 20th century, interested in capturing the time period and using his art to comment on it. In this piece there is a tension between nature and technology, modernity. In the context of the time period’s technological revolution, one can see how Hopper was trying to make sense of a rapidly changing world.

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ART

ISLAMIC ART GETS A NEW HOME After its closing in 2003, the Islam exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art is finally open for viewing. Michelle Kim ‘14 dishes on the awe-inspiring display.

he Islamic Galleries in the Metropolitan Museum of Art are truly breathtaking. Deep tones of turquoise blue, clean porcelain vases, and ancient rugs of deep red, all fight to catch the attention of your eyes. Strolling under the intricately designed, pale white arches and between limestone pillars in the newly renovated wing transports you to a complete different, almost divine space. Although there are a wide range of colors and patterns on each art piece, the entire set-up is surprisingly not overwhelming or cluttered. From inspecting each fragile tile of the textiles to reading the archaic stories drawn on scrolls, there is much to absorb in this wing, which has become my favorite in the entire Metropolitan Museum of Art. The “Galleries for the Art of the Arab Lands, Turkey, Iran, Central Asia and Later South Asia” underwent an eight-year renovation that cost $50 million, creating the most beautiful and engaging wing in the entire museum. The newly- revealed wing encompasses Islamic influences featuring pieces from the Middle East as well as Spain, Central China, and India. Also the collection features artworks that span over thirteen centuries. The new refurbishing has added 5,000 square feet of exhibition space and even a recreation of a Moorish courtyard. More images of the

Prophet have been added to the collection of Islamic art. Curators plan to display only some depictions of the Prophet at a time due to their value and delicate conditions. The wing features nearly twelve thousand objects reflecting the vast diversity, tradition and expansion of Islamic culture. It holds many secular and sacred objects and reveals many of the ancestral practices such as elegant calligraphy, religious motifs, and geometric patterns. Being in the largest and most renowned museum in New York City, naturally this wing is the most extensive and detailed arrangement of Islamic art in the world. After two hours of deep concentration, having viewed every piece in the gallery, I encountered one specific work of art that was truly remarkable. The Mihrab, a Mosaic from Isfahan, Iran in 1354, captured my eye, and I could not look away for a good fifteen to twenty minutes, just staring at the medium-sized niche. Mihrabs are in mosques to indicate the direction of Mecca, so Muslims can face that direction during prayer. This Mihrab has ornate decorations and carefully placed small glazed tiles. Geometric shapes, curvilinear and rectilinear lines, and Arabic inscriptions make up this mesmerizing element in the wing. While the piece has mixed and varied patterns, altogether, it does not look disorganized, but rather serene. I was

mesmerized by the bold, complementary colors of turquoise, white, and gold of the tilework. Although the beautiful aesthetics cause the piece to be awe-inspiring, the Arabic Inscriptions are just as significant. There are quotes from the Qur’an, the Holy Text of Islam, referencing the Prophet Muhammad. Overall, this fascinating architectural prayer niche displays the divinity of the religion and culture of the Islamic world. The artifacts displayed in the Islamic wing clearly emphasize the attraction of the different societies and their arts. There are many other works of art including manuscript pages from Iranian books, polished jewelry, and thick carpets. The various stylistic methods are special and distinctive to each artwork as well. One can see the incredible precision in the carefully carved, sketched, or sewn Islamic art. While the Metropolitan Museum is closed on Mondays and still lively every other day, this wing makes up for some of the long lines because of its entire ambiance of beauty. Enter the galleries and you will be physically and mentally transformed into a space overflowing with cross-cultural perspectives in art. As a wing created not solely for Muslims or by Muslims, anyone can fully embrace the customs of the Islamic world together by this educational and aweinspiring showcase.

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ART

DAN FLAVIN: The King of Light Veronica Williamson ‘13 and Anna Carroll ‘13 look into the fluorescent world of the iconic minimalist artist’s work.

an Flavin was a native New Yorker who was known for his use of lighting in sculpture. He was worked briefly as a meteorologist until his early 20s when he began taking art history classes. Despite having had no formal training, he had his first show, consisting of a collection of watercolors and small sculptures. Shortly after, his first work that involved light, “Diagonal of May” was featured in the Jewish Museum of New York, ironic since he grew up as a Roman Catholic in an Irish and German household. His way of using store-bought lights to make art was reminiscent of Duchamp’s Readymades (manufactured objects that were chosen and then slightly modified by the artist.) But, its simplicity brought it closer to the modern style of art at that time; minimalism. Flavin used lights of a variety of colors and sizes. This gave his pieces, which were now consistently made of fluorescent lights, distinctions between one another. To keep his installations from being unrelatable and too industrial, many were named for other artists and close friends. The debate about Flavin’s work comes in when we

ask the question that commonly plagues modern art. “Why is this art,” and “What about this would I be unable to replicate?” These questions always lead to wondering; when you stop trying to replicate exactly what you see, what’s left? The answer we get from Flavin’s work is composition, color, and a scale of proportions. Flavin figured out how to create very specific patterns and colors with light using his limited materials, lights coming only in standardized lengths, colors, and diameters. By thinking about the lights as lines, he was, through experimentation, able to essentially paint with light. The shape of the lights provided perfectly straight lines that Flavin was able to manipulate like an artist would be able to manipulate paint. Flavin composed and manipulated lines on paper first so that it would be exactly as he wanted and fit the space that it was meant to go in. The result was that he took simple and unnoticed objects and filled rooms with their aura so that you couldn’t go without paying attention to them. Using single lights he immersed rooms with striking colors and painted the walls with a glow.

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FEATURES

innovator. visionary. artist.

pple, an international icon and popularity, and we can see them in the Steve Jobs even endeavored to prestigious brand, is renowned fabric of clothes we wear, interiors of increase the straightforwardness of its for its sleek and simplistic style, buildings, and art work by contemporary commodities, by taking away buttons. which facilitates consumers’ artists. There is a drive to decrease clutter Apple adopted the “touch” technology for ease of use of technology. As ex-CEO and and excess extravagance in the modern all of its products to minimize features that founder of the company, Steve Jobs is world. would protrude. It is present in iTouches, credited with introducing trendy, userDesigning aside, Steve Jobs’ intuition iPads, iPhones, and recently in the new friendly designs. The company’s products allowed him to know what the consumers desktop mouses. The company zealously have not only risen to fame due to the works to lessen the weight and size innovative technological advances of its products, as well as make them they introduce, but also due to their easier to use, aiding the wide range minimalist, contemporary designs of consumers from elementary that have restructured the stylistic school children to those who are Designing aside, Steve Jobs’ expectations of the technological not so technologically advanced. intuition allowed him to know world. Apple commodities are Its computers are also used by a instantly identified by their slim what the consumers wanted even growing number of schools, due the cuts, large icons and of course, simplicity of their designs. before they did. the apple logo, which once again Steve Jobs revolutionized simplifies a common household the face of technology, expanding fruit into a classy and distinctive the market for stylish devices and shape. introducing easy access to the Trends in technology seem to be wanted even before they did. By inventing technological world. Apple products growing synonymously with those in the the iTouch, he essentially sought to create are a rage all across the world, and the fashion industry. Straight lines rather an mp3 player with a way to organize the company still prospers today. His insight than curves and sleeker cuts rather than music it holds. With iPads, he looked to proved revolutionary for bringing new detailed features have ushered in a new era create a lighter version of a laptop. The ideas and innovations to the table, and in fashion be it for technology, designer same insight is crucial in the advancement his legacy lives on in the realm of today’s wear, architecture, home interiors and of the fashion industry. How else would technology. -Mihika Kapoor '14 retail space. Geometric shapes are gaining new trends start?

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FEATURES

*click* through the lens: The inner workings of a camera BY gabby Reid '13

ith one simple click of a of motion. The lens acts as a tunnel for the down on the shutter button. With the release button, an entire scene—its light, and creates a path to the next step in of the button, the mirror moves out of its mood, its essence—can be the process. The aperture, the opening inside previous 45-degree tilt so that it is no longer captured and replicated. The the lens that allows the light through, varies in the way, the shutter opens, and the light camera acts as a way of documenting history in size depending on how much light is to be moves through the camera. The light exposes and as a medium of art. Before photography, allowed into the camera. It acts the same way the film or the camera sensor, forming the memories and events were portrayed through a human pupil does, contracting in greater photographic impression. The shutter closes, drawing, painting, writing, and other forms light and expanding in darker settings. The and the mirror moves back into place. The of art and documentation. Today, capturing shutter speed and the aperture are the main image is now stored in the camera on the those experiences is easier than ever because variables in controlling the amount of light film. If working with film, the photographer technological advances have allowed cameras that hits the film. The camera’s settings must wind the film in order to move it over operate almost independently of people. As are governed by both the constraints of and place the next bracket in position for a result, while a camera works to capture the environment—day or night, indoors or exposure. In digital cameras, the images an image, a photographer can concentrate outdoor—and the photographer’s artistic are converted into discrete signals. They more on the composition and other are stored on the internal memory aspects of it. before the data is transferred to the The camera is made up of While the camera may seem complex, memory card. The camera is now various components that all work reset and ready to capture the next it manages to operate in a fraction together to create a photograph. image. The primary job of any camera is While the camera may seem of a second—a huge advance to capture light. Images are formed complex, it manages to operate in a from the hours-long sessions based on the way the light reflects fraction of a second—a huge advance off the subjects. Whether the from the hours-long sessions of two of two centuries ago. photographer shoots on manual centuries ago. In an age of digital or automatic, the settings on the photography, taking photographs camera adjust to be compatible has become a regular and familiar with the amount of light in the image. The preferences. All of the elements work together practice to people everywhere. From iPhone basic parts of the camera are the viewfinder, to capture the light and translate real life into “muploads” to Photobooth snapshots, the the shutter, the lens, and the aperture. The an image on a piece of paper. role of photographer as artist seems to have viewfinder is pretty self-descriptive, allowing For the light from the scene to be recorded diminished while technological advances a quick judgement of the scene’s composition on the film, it must pass through the aperture have grown. The future of photography as and balance. The shutter is crucial—it and lens. It then will reach a mirror that is an art form depends on whether this trend controls the amount of light that actually temporarily tilted at a 45-degree angle, which continues. Take, for example, the recent hits the film. If the shutter remains open directs the light through a pentaprism glass comeback of Polaroid pictures—nostalgia for for too long, more light hits the sensor and and out the viewfinder—instead of onto the a bygone mode of recording memories, or the image will be brighter, or over-exposed. photosensitive film. When the photographer just another fad? We’ll have to wait for the A slow shutter-speed also causes blurring is ready to take the picture, he or she presses picture to finish developing.

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FEATURES

TECHNOnoihsaf fashionology

designers at the technological frontier

by Claire Hayes '14 & Rebecca Okin '14

echnology is becoming more and “I’m interested in leading a high-fashion CuteCircut was co-founded in London more embedded into our day- interpretation of this powerful source in 2004 by Francesca Rosella and Ryan to-day lives. As our generation of future energy. I’m taking inspiration Genz. The company’s website, Cutecircuit. continues to focus intently on the from the technology but not mimicking com, says they use “smart textiles and developments in science and electronics, it.” Henderson merges leading fashion micro electronics” to create the designs businesses and industries are forced into trends with cutting edge advancements in that aizakbuyondo.com labels “amazing, an overwhelming competition for our solar-energy technology to construct his wearable, technology and interaction attention. Enter the world of fashion. This critically acclaimed works of art. One of his fashion.” Rosella and Genz, whose work can is one of the only institutions able to keep groundbreaking creations features a high- be found in many design books, speculate up with the innovations in technology tech twist on the classic “little black dress.” about the innovation and future of fashion because it, too, is so fast-paced. and design around the world. Two It’s no surprise that fashion is so of their most popular pieces are the greatly influenced by technology. T-shirt” and the “M Dress.” Fashion is one of the only institutions “Twinkle Cutting-edge designers and In May 2011 CuteCircuit hit the companies like CuteCircuit and able to keep up with the innovations fashion scene when Katy Perry wore Seth Aaron Henderson embrace a light up dress to the MET Ball in of technology because it, too, is so the progressions in technology New York City. The dress contained by incorporating tech-inspired over 3000 LEDs that gave the plush fast-paced. designs in their fashion pieces. colored dress a rainbow glow. Critics Seth Aaron Henderson at glamour.com described the dress literally heats up the runway during “Project This spin-off design of the traditional piece as “a natural progression of fashion to merge Runway Night” at Portland’s Fashion Week is made of sleek, shiny material resembling with technology in this way.” As CuteCircuit with his solar-powered inspired fashion a solar panel. Henderson explores the and Seth Aaron Henderson continue to creations. Henderson, the most recent opportunities in solar-energy and aims to develop as fashion and technology gurus, winner of the hit show “Project Runway,” reflect new developments in his designs. He more and more fashion companies will also partnered with the SolarWorld team to also aims to personally bring the fashion be inspired to center their creations around design a runway collection influenced by industry forward. “I like to be the leader. So technology. solar-power technology. Solarworld.us does SolarWorld,” Henderson says, “We’re reveals the designer’s thoughts: both leaders in our fields.”

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FEATURES

? D R A W R O F N O I H E PAST S H T A O F T G N I K O O L ALUE OF V E H T G N I N O I T S QUE off '1 5

by A nd ie Fi a lk is '13 & Noa h M a rg ul

he aspect of fashion that is most noticed by designers, critics, and the bulk of the population is the constant repetition of styles, looks and trends. Most recently 1970’s-style fashion was everywhere this past summer. This phenomenon can be credited primarily to two factors. Firstly, designers tend to use previous styles for inspiration while creating new collections. Secondly, technological advances can facilitate the once costly production of certain garments, allowing for the revival of previously exclusive styles by making them available to the masses. As a result, the basis of today’s fashion industry is the same as when the industry originated. The Boho look, a style that draws together various Bohemian and Hippie influences, is a recurring style that can be dated back to the mid- 1960s and greatly flourished in the 1970s. Halston, a well-known designer today, made his first mark on the fashion industry in the 1970s with his free flowing halter dresses that started a trend then and continues to inspire designers today. The trend made its most recent comeback in the early 2000s and was embraced by many celebrities and designers. Clothing involved in this trend included maxi skirts, faux fur, embroidered tunics, slouchy hats, and flared pants. Major fashion houses such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs, Ferragamo, and Michael Kors incorporated this trend into their Spring 2011 collections. They seemed intent on returning to a period of fashion known for its originality and self-gratuity. People of that era were extreme, ”but there was magic in their extravagance,” said Marian McEvoy, a fashion editor. “People in the 70s seemed a little more care-free, a little less complicated,” said Tory Burch, whose collection was full of period references, including a tuxedo reminiscent of the influential YSL “smoking suit,” a look her mother wore. The 70s were years “when

women were coming into their own,” Ms. Burch said. People then “were a little freer in the way they dressed and lived their lives. I wanted to celebrate that.” Many new software programs have been created in the recent past to assist manufacturers and retailers of fashion. Specifically a software named DeSL has been designed to solve the problems that are encountered in the manufacturing and distributing process of the fashion industry. Many advances have been made in fashion over the years but designers keep building off of the same classic styles and ideas which make fashion interesting. Every season designers begin to revive a past style that defined an era of not just the fashion industry, but the lifestyle of people who lived then. It is so intriguing to see the new spring designs each year and see how those styles are seen from season to season. Fleetwood Mac’s Stevie Nicks, far right, and others who portray pure bohemian style from 1976. Photo from latimes.com

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Giovanni Civardi

FEATURES

SCIENCE OFBEAUTY

THE

what it means to be beautiful: symmetry and more

by Alex Vogelsang '14

he sociological study of beauty perception of beauty, facial symmetry. levels of bilateral symmetry. Furthermore, is diverse and varied due to This theory is especially evident in male faces exhibiting high facial symmetry different cultural perceptions of advertising and in our own culture. Kate were found to be more masculine, and beauty. What we find beautiful Moss, arguably one of the most famous female faces more feminine. But why the today would not be beautiful to people 200 supermodels of our time, is one of the increased link between attractiveness and years ago, or even to people living halfway only people on record with a perfectly facial symmetry? around the world. The Chinese used to symmetrical face. Although absolute facial Anthropological theory states that we bind the feet of young girls because they symmetry is rare, enough evidence has determine attractiveness based on potential found small feet beautiful. Today there is a surfaced that the more symmetrical a face is, for mating. An individual’s health and tribe in northern Africa that uses brass coils the more attractive it is to the opposite sex. A genetics can indicate his or her potential for to lengthen the neck to match what their 2000 study conducted by Brandis University mating. One theory suggests that sickness as culture finds beautiful. Most conceptions in Massachusetts concluded that persons a baby can affect the development of the face. of beauty were formed to match the The resulting asymmetry can indicate ideologies present in their respective a weak immune system. This sign can With so many different cultures, which have changed over lower one’s potential for mating, and standards of beauty, scientists time. During the 17th century, pale skin therefore their attractiveness. A study was considered beautiful because it was at the University of Western were surprised to find that there conducted a sign of wealth; those who had money Australia suggested a link between did not have to work out in the fields, facial symmetry and diversity in the is a unifying trait in human and thus did not develop a tan. This bias MHC genes, a set of 128 genes that perception of beauty: toward the fair skinned changed in the affect the immune system. The study early 1900s. Coco Chanel, along with found that those who have high facial facial symmetry. many others of the famous French elite symmetry also tend to have a variety of the time, came back with tans from of these genes, creating yet another tie vacations in the south of France. Nowadays, whose faces are more symmetrical appear between health and beauty. having bronze skin shows that one has healthier than those whose faces are more Our understanding of the beauty of enough leisure time to go on vacation and asymmetrical. In a 2008 study conducted symmetry, not only in people but in nature, get a tan. This shows yet another way that by British and American psychologists and art, and architecture etc., continues to lead us wealth influences our perception of beauty. anthropologists, test subjects were given to perplexing questions that may some day With so many different standards of beauty 500 faces of females and males and were lead to a greater understanding of the brain ranging from country to country and century asked to pick the most attractive ones. Upon and our perception of the world around us. to century, scientists were surprised to examining the faces selected, the researchers find that there is a unifying trait in one’s discovered that the faces chosen had high

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fire

Models return to the most basic fundaments of beauty in looks inspired by the four elements. Even in a world dominated by technology, the essentials of nature still inspire. Photographers: Allison Chang ‘15 & Gina Yu ‘14

Beauty: Rachel Buissereth ‘13, Emma Garcia ‘13, Paige Burris ‘13, & ShaKea Alston ‘13 Models: Michelle Kim ‘14, Clara Pomi ‘13, Drew McCann ‘13, & Julia Thomsen ‘15

earth

BEAUTY

water

air

acute angles • cynthia irobunda ‘14 wears top and pants by noah margulis ‘13; necklace and shoes stylist’s own

up shape

The second annual FAD Fashion Show Fundraiser, an event including speakers, raffles, and an entirely student-made fashion show, is coming soon on February 3rd, 2012. With visions of bold edges and clean lines, our very own Fashion Design Club has been preparing looks circling the idea of geometry. In this shoot, we headed down to Lincoln Center, the home of the arts in New York. Its soaring architecture informed the aesthetic of the looks we chose; monumental stone structures translated to structured, fitted pieces, sewn with the balance of horizontal and vertical in mind. Photographed by Gina Yu ‘14 & Veronica Williamson ‘13 Beauty by Rachel Buissereth ‘13 & ShaKea Alston ‘13

alternate interior • rebecca shaw ‘14 wears bustier top and shorts by rachel scheinfeld ‘12; accesories stylists’ own jordan berman ‘12 wears t-shirt with design by mia farinelli ‘13; pants, sweater and shoes model’s own

intersection • cynthia irobunda ‘14 wears dress by rachel scheinfeld ‘12, accessories stylist’s own

altitude • rebecca shaw ‘14 wears dress by alexandra vogelsang ‘14; accessories stylists’ own

alternate exterior • rebecca shaw ‘14 wears dress by alexandra vogelsang ‘14; accessories stylists’ own out-of-school friend jonah allon wears t-shirt with design by mia farinelli ‘13; pants and shoes model’s own

e m fly to the n o mo /photographer: jackson siegal ‘14 /photography assistant: anjali dutta ‘13 /beauty: rachel buissereth ‘13, emma garcia ‘13, & paige burris ‘13 /styling: noah margulis ‘13 and paige burris ‘13 /assistants: shakea alston ‘13 and lauren cantor ‘13 /digital editing: seth arar ‘12 & aramael peña-alcántara ‘12 <kylie logan ‘14 in stylists’ own

/celestial being ^kylie logan â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;14 in stylistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; own

/beam me up ^ariane busse-lee ‘13 in stylists’ own

/eclipse ^ariane busse-lee ‘13 in stylists’ own

/selene, goddess of the moon ^kylie logan ‘14 in stylists’ own

/moon ^alexandra vogelsang â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;14, ariane busse-lee

moods e ‘13, & kylie logan ‘14 in stylists’ own

/magnificent desolation ^kylie logan â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;14 in stylistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; own

{ space () is the breath

of art; }

//frank lloyd wright

/the girl who fell to earth ^ariane busse-lee â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;13 in stylistsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; own

D.I.Y: Do It Yourself

Moon Walk Bracelet Slide a bead onto the wire and hold one end with the round nose pliers.

Twist the wire to make a small loop at the end.

step_1

you'll need Some beads of your choice, round nosed pliers, wire, wire clippers, a clasp with a jump ring

step_2 step_4

step_6

Repeat previous steps, but put one end of the wire through the loop of the first link before completing it.

Now it should look like this. Continue adding links until the bracelet is of a desired length.

Make a loop on the other end. This is the first link of the bracelet.

Slide the bead toward the loop and cut the wire, leaving enough to make a loop on the other side.

_julia hirschberg '13

step_7

Open a loop at one end of the bracelet and reloop it around the clasp. Do this at the other end with the jump ring.

step_3

step_5

f.a.d. magazine

and you're done!

fashion | art | design

~ ADVERTISEMENT ~

horace mann school | winter 2012 | vol. 3 no. 2

f.a.d. magazine 47

save the date! fad fashion show fundraiser friday, february 3rd, 2012

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