PASSIONATE FOODIE —THE ROOT OF IT ALL

THE UNDERGROUND WORLD OF VEGGIES

by Sandra Jones

If vegetables competed in a beauty pageant, root vegetables would never walk away wearing the tiara. However, what they lack in visual appeal is more than made up for in earthy flavour, colour, crunch and nutrition. In fact, because these knobbly, odd-shaped tubers and roots grow underground, they absorb many nutrients from the soil. That means these dietary allstars make a healthy addition to the dinner plate and serve up benefits that run the gamut from reducing oxidative stress to preventing chronic disease.

Of course, if you’ve already boiled and mashed your way through bushels of potatoes, carrots and maybe even beets, the concept of root vegetables might seem a bit mundane. But look closer and you’ll find dozens of more exotic options plus new and inventive ways to prepare them.

CELERY ROOT OR CELERIAC

Found in virtually every grocery store, this homely root belies its subtle, celery-like flavour. It’s deliciously silky in a soup or try it mashed, roasted in slow-cook dishes or transformed into a remoulade as the French would do. For an alternative to mashed potatoes, try the Celery Root Puree with Celery Leaf Pesto recipe!

JICAMA

You may have walked right by this little root beauty in the produce section and not known what to do with it. Globe-shaped with a starchy white interior, it’s an excellent addition as part of a raw crudite platter. Peel it, cut it into matchsticks and refrigerate. Or dip the matchsticks into lime juice, chill powder and salt and crunch away! Often referred to as a superfood, jicama is rich in Vitamin C and A and is loaded with inulin, a prebiotic that contributes to a healthy gut.

RUTABAGA

Sometimes described as a cross between a turnip and a cabbage, these yellow-fleshed, purple-shouldered wonders are both buttery and a bit bitter when cooked. At half the calories of potatoes and sweet potatoes, rutabagas can be peeled, cubed, boiled and simply mashed with butter, spiralized like noodles and tossed with olive oil and fresh herbs or oven roasted like fries.

PARSNIP

This white tapered root may look like a carrot but it is sweeter, like a sweet potato, and has a slightly nutty flavour. It can be baked, boiled, mashed or even pureed into a soup but a simple toss with olive oil, salt and pepper and roasted in the oven is enough to transform parsnips into caramelized nuggets of deliciousness.

TURNIP

If a cabbage and a radish had a baby, it would taste like a turnip. Not to be confused with rutabaga, this round root is smaller with white or white and purple skin and a sweet but slightly spicy undertone that mellows when cooked. Pickled, steamed, mashed or layered into a cheesy gratin, this earthy pick is a good source of dietary fibre, vitamin C and manganese. Don’t forget to steam or stir fry the tops as turnip greens are considered a super food and are packed with nutrients.

Celery Root Puree with Celery Leaf Pesto

(Excerpt from Farm to Table: Cooking Through the Seasons by Lynn Crawford)

CELERY LEAF PESTO

Makes about ½ cup (125 ml)

1 cup (250 ml) packed celery leaves

½ cup (125 ml) flat leaf parsley leaves

½ cup (125 ml) finely grated Parmesan cheese

¼ cup (60 ml) toasted pumpkin seeds

1 T (15 ml) lemon juice

1 tsp (5 ml) grated lemon zest

¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

CELERY ROOT PUREE

1 celery root (about 2 ½ lbs/1⅛ kg), peeled & cut into

1-in (2 ½ cm) cubes

¼ c (60 ml) heavy cream (35%)

2 T (30 ml) unsalted butter Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

Make the Celery Leaf Pesto

1. In a food processor, combine celery leaves, parsley, Parmesan, pumpkin seeds, lemon juice and zest. Process until combined.

2. With processor running, slowly pour oil through feed tube and process until well combined, scraping down sides of the bowl if necessary. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.

Make the Celery Root Puree

1. Place celery root in a saucepan of lightly salted cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook until celery root is fork-tender, about 15 minutes.

2. Drain celery root well, then return to pot and mash with cream and butter until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. To serve, spoon puree into a warm bowl, make a well in the centre and fill with a few tablespoons of Celery Leaf Puree. Serve immediately.