Family Traveller - Issue 3 - Sept/Oct.

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FAMILY TRAVELLER

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2013 / £3.95

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2013

WIN! A SEVEN-NIGHT

MEDITERRANEAN CRUISE

CARIBBEAN FOR LESS SIX CHILD-FRIENDLY STAYS FOR UNDER £120 A NIGHT

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REYKJAVIK

EUROPE’S COOLEST FAMILY CITY BREAK

FASHION

SERIOUS STYLE ON VANCOUVER ISLAND

PEAK DISTRICT

THE MOST ACCESSIBLE NATIONAL PARK IN THE UK

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EURO WINTER SUN HOTSPOTS

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Right ICI A holiday without ice cream isn’t a holiday at all so we created our own brand called ‘ici’. Offered in an indulgent array of low-fat, exotic island flavours, it’s served from retro-styled parlours and mobile carts. Waffle cones are baked and formed right in front of your eyes. Crunch. Munch. Perfect after lunch. Sheila Naidoo, Guest Relations LUX * BELLE MARE

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CONTRIBUTORS

INTRODUCING THE PEOPLE WHO’VE HELPED BRING YOU THIS ISSUE

TOM PARKER BOWLES

PAIGE BIRNIE

Much to our delight, our Editor at Large decided to cook up a pot of Big Beefy Stew for this issue (on page 94). This half-term, Tom’s having a quiet one – sort of… ‘It’s my daughter’s birthday. So we’ll be at home with 20 screaming girls dressed as princesses, watching some “entertainer” gurn his way though his dreary act. But Lola loves it, so that, I suppose, is the point.’

CLAIRE BASELEY

The work of photographer Paige Birnie has graced the glossy pages of Elle and Cosmopolitan, and she’s Cosmopolitan been commissioned by celebrities from Bryan Adams to Nigella Lawson. So she was more than ready to take on the Family Traveller challenge and whip children’s fashion into a dreamy wonderland for our ‘Finding Neverland’ shoot on page 34.

FRANCESCA SYZ

Nutritionist Claire will be educating us in the science of kids’ meals, beginning this issue. She managed nutrition at Heinz before concentrating on kids’ meals at Ella’s Kitchen, where she’s just launched My Little Big Meals for toddlers. On page 48, Claire whips us up a cous cous that’s ideal for kids’ lunch or dinner. She’s spending a child-free half-term in Milan, ‘most likely, people-watching’.

One of our favourite UK travel writers, Francesca rounds up what’s hot in our Trending Now pages on page 10. When not trend-spotting for Family Traveller,, she dotes on her Traveller daughter Eva or sips a chilled G&T. This autumn she’s going on a mini-break to Amsterdam. ‘We’ll be testing the family friendliness of the Dylan Hotel, one of the city’s original boutique hotels.’

EMMA SMITH

Before taking up residency as our Fashion Editor, Emma worked on TV and radio, and has covered London Fashion week for the BBC. Emma is also busy in the blogosphere – inspiring mums at yourstylefix. com and kids at littlestylefix.com. Half-term will find her in Disneyland, Paris. ‘I’ve been promising my four-year-old a trip to meet Minnie for a while now.’

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PHIL DAVIES

Our Cruise Editor Phil (who put together the supplement on page 97), is a seasoned seagoer who’s shared his know-how in The Mail on Sunday, Daily Express and Sunday International. True Cruise International to form, Phil and his children are taking to the water for half-term. ‘October is an ideal time to see Venice. We’ll start off there before sailing down the Adriatic on a cultural cruise.’

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH

97

34 IN THIS ISSUE finding neverland the lost boys are back – on canada’s vancouver island

8 Where we want to be

Dunmanus Bay, Co Cork, Ireland.

10 Trending now…

CONTENTS

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2013

118 Apps

The latest news from the travel world.

120 Gadgets/technology

20 Competition

122 Child-free break

22 Into the city

128 Celebrity Q&A

28 Ask the experts

FEATURES

Win a seven-night Mediterranean cruise.

Rosie Ifould explores Reykjavik, Iceland.

The answers to all your travel troubles.

31 Fashion news

The latest trends for kids and parents.

34 Finding Neverland Fashion: the spirit of Peter Pan.

44 Beauty

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115 Books/films

Marrakech, Morocco, without the kids.

IN FOCUS: CARIBBEAN

62 Top Marx

A teen-focused tour of Cuba wins over Liz Boulter and her doubtful daughter.

68 Caribbean on a budget

Your autumn beauty-bag essentials.

You don’t have to be wealthy to visit the Windies. Here are six affordable stays.

46 Health

74 Hey, big spenders

How to fly long-haul without fear.

48 Nutrition

Claire Baseley on easy holiday meals.

Our fave family-friendly luxury resorts for those looking to splash the cash.

76 Treasure island

52 Family finances

Suzanne Dent is seduced by the St James’s Club Morgan Bay on St Lucia.

56 Simon Reeve

80 8 of the best

Make the most of your family budget.

Our globetrotting columnist on what makes Greece so special for families.

58 Mariella Frostrup

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Our Contributing Editor takes us back to her childhood on a remote Irish island.

94 Tom Parker Bowles

The foodie expert on autumnal stews.

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Europe’s hottest winter-sun islands.

88 Close to the edge

Rufus Purdy revisits the Peak District to introduce a new generation to its charms.

97 Family cruise special Family Traveller’s guide to taking children on an aquatic adventure.

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family traveller eller family traveller.com

Love your time together

COMMERCIAL

EDITORIAL Editor Rufus Purdy rufus@familytraveller.com Editor at Large Tom Parker Bowles Contributing Editors Mariella Frostrup Francesca Syz Digital Editor Rosie Price-Smith rosie@familytraveller.com Deputy Digital Editor Jemima Johnson-Gilbert jemima@familytraveller.com Sub Editor Adrian Justins

Creative Director Colin Wilson Art Director Sarah Morley Designer Sarah Beckett Picture Editor Caz Conboy Associate Editor Jennifer Kennedy jennifer@familytraveller.com

CEO & Publisher Andrew Dent +44 (0) 20 3440 5176; andrew@familytraveller.com

Financial Controller Louise Whitburn +44 (0) 20 3440 5175; louise@familytraveller.com

Advertising Director Stephen Kilshaw +44 (0) 20 3440 5177; stephen@familytraveller.com

Acting Financial Controller Rudi Webb +44 (0) 20 3440 5175; rudi@familytraveller.com

Advertising Manager Nick Staunton nick@familytraveller.com

Chief Digital Officer Charles Talbot charles@familytraveller.com SEO Manager Glyn Hopkin glyn@familytraveller.com

Editorial Assistant Lisa Atkinson lisa@familytraveller.com Picture Assistant Felicity Millward

PHOTOGRAPH: CORBIS

Copyright Š Ardent Media Ltd, 1 Lumley Street, London W1K 6TT. Print managed in the UK by Logical Connections Ltd (logicalconnections.co.uk). Reprographics by PH Media (phmedia.com). Published bi-monthly. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices correct at the time of going to press but subject to change.

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The paper used for this publication is recyclable and made from renewable fibrous raw materials. It has been produced using wood sourced from sustainably managed forests and elemental or total chlorine-free bleached pulp. The magazine can be recycled through kerbside collection or at a recycling point. ISSN 2052-4773 Family Traveller, 5 Langley Street, London WC2H 9JA Website: familytraveller.com

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EDITOR’S LETTER

editor’s letter

A

nd so we move into autumn. It’s been a truly memorable summer; not only did we at Family Traveller launch the magazine you’re reading and our website familytraveller.com, but we also enjoyed journeying around the globe on your behalf. My personal highlights in our quest to find you the perfect family breaks included eating budget burgers cooked by a Michelin-starred chef in Helsinki, Finland, and dancing with a giant squirrel at Camp Bestival in Dorset – both of which you’ll read about in forthcoming issues. But I don’t think anyone can top the experience enjoyed by our Associate Editor Jennifer Kennedy – who sat down to devour deep-fried cheesecake with 50 US astronauts on a recent trip to Florida’s Space Coast. But just because the mercury levels have started to drop in the UK and the nights have begun to draw in, it doesn’t mean we’re going to stop travelling. In fact, on page 88, we actively go in search of windblown walks and cosy cottages in the UK’s Peak District. And, for those willing to pack their very thickest jumpers, we highlight the family-friendly side to Reykjavik – one of the world’s coolest cities in both senses of the word – on page 22.

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As we enter the final stages of the year, though, the lure of the sun is as strong as ever for British families. So, in this issue, our ‘In Focus’ section (which begins on page 60) is dedicated to the sun-kissed islands of the Caribbean. And, closer to home, we’ve also picked out our favourite European winter-sun destinations on page 80 – ideal for those who want a tan and less time in the air. Of course, flying isn’t the only way to get from A to B; and sometimes the journey is every bit as enjoyable as getting to the destination. This is certainly true of cruising – perhaps the most leisurely way to see the world. And on page 97, we’ve partnered with the Cruise Lines International Association to bring you an exclusive 18-page cruise supplement, which reveals how best to enjoy the life aquatic. We hope you enjoy this issue of Family Traveller and that the next 100 or so pages go some way to helping you love your time together.

family traveller.com

Rufus Purdy, editor

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where we want to be

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The humped backs of whales rising above the surf, fresh Atlantic winds billowing in, whitewashed granite cottages with peat crackling in the hearth; Ireland's West Cork is the stuff of autumnal dreams. And that’s where we want to be this October. Ideally, after enjoying the acclaimed Mediterranean garden at Kilravock (pictured), we'll tuck in to a spread of delicious local seafood. Then we’ll pull on our fleeces and wander down to a nearby cove. With the beach to ourselves, we’ll fashion the white sand into a mini fort, complete with shell-encrusted balustrades, and maybe even dip a toe in the water.

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If Dunmanus Bay is where you want to be, call 0800 313 4000 or go to ireland.com

family traveller.com

PHOTOGRAPH: ALAMY

DUNMANUS BAY CO CORK, IRELAND

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TRENDING NOW... ALL THE LATEST NEWS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT. BY FRANCESCA SYZ

CHOCS AWAY With UK Chocolate Week upon us (14–20 October), why not celebrate your love of the cocoa bean by jetting off to gorgeous, family-friendly Inkaterra Hacienda Concepción? The most stylish hotel in Peru’s Amazon rainforest – and one of Latin America’s most conservationminded properties – has just launched the Bean to Bar Cocoa Experience. Hike through cocoa groves, learning about the cocoa seed and its culinary, ceremonial and medicinal uses, then return to Inkaterra to make your own chocolate bars, biscuits and bread. For the full oompa loompa experience go between January and March, and get involved in the harvesting process. Doubles from £362 (minimum two-night stay). inkaterra.com

Cwmcrwth Farm, in the Towy Valley, offers Smallholding Experiences from £180 per person

GO THE WHOLE HOG If you often dream of packing it all in and moving to the country to raise rare-breed pigs, why not do everyone a favour and book the whole family in for a Smallholding Experience weekend at the amazing Cwmcrwth Farm in Carmarthenshire’s Towy Valley to see if you’re actually cut out for it? Rob and Fiona Park run the farm, where they

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raise Oxford Sandy and Black pigs, Highland cattle and Cotswold sheep in an impressively traditional and ethical way, and run a whole series of courses, including the Smallholding Experience, from £180 per person, which will put you in the driving seat for two days to try out your dream – including 5am starts. cwmcrwthfarmcottages.co.uk

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BOARDING SCHOOL

CREDIT IN HERE PLEASE

With north Devon seawater at its warmest in September and October, why not visit the Croyde Surf Academy? It offers everything from private family lessons and one-day taster sessions to week-long courses. Day sessions are priced at £150 for two adults and a child ‘for as long as it takes to get right’. Alternatively, a group of up to six is from £35 per person for two 30-minute sessions. Family Traveller readers can save 20 per cent off beginner lessons by quoting ‘Famtrav’ when booking. 01271 320218; croydesurfacademy.com

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TRENDING NOW ...

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TRENDING NOW...

the 11-day Costa Rica for Families itinerary ends up on the smooth sands of the pacific ocean

TAKE A WALK ON THE WET AND WILD SIDE Featuring brightly coloured frogs and trees laden with chocolate (well, cacao beans), Rainbow Tours’s new 11-day Costa Rica for Families itinerary will fascinate and amaze your whole tribe. The trip begins in the capital San José and takes in the La Tirimbina Rainforest Reserve, the active Arenal volcano, a cloud forest (where kids can visit a snake and frog farm) and the smooth sands of the Pacific coast, as it introduces you to this endlessly fascinating country. Rainbow Tours (020 3504 9137; rainbowtours.co.uk). Two adults and two children from £6,980, excluding flights.

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TRENDING NOW...

800 YEARS IN THE MAKING Sitting at the foot of the beautiful Monte Tezio, Chiesa del Carmine in Umbria, Italy, is a 13th-century church and adjoining 18th-century farmhouse, which sleeps up to 14 people. Newly renovated, the church has a large kitchen, dining room and entertaining space, with seven bedrooms in the farmhouse. There is a huge outdoor pool and dozens of great walks through the olive groves. From £3,460 per week, with £440 off in September and October. chiesadelcarmine.com

ON THE FLIPSIDE Hailing from Brazil, FlipSide literary festival, which takes place on 4-6 October at Snape Maltings in Suffolk, will be complemented by a dedicated children’s festival called FlipKids. Adults can expect Ian McEwan, whilst kids can look forward to Capoeira classes, art, drama and bookmaking, plus musical theatre. flipsidefestival.co.uk

BE A MOVIE MOGUL You can now send snapshots, iPhone clips and video footage from your holiday to The Art of Original Travel, which will turn the best bits into a short film. For a real pro Hollywood look, one of its gurus can accompany you on your next trip. originaltravel.co.uk

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CALL OF THE WILD Wild Frontiers, renowned for its pioneering holidays to Afghanistan and Congo has just launched Wild Child, a series of trips aimed at adventure-seeking families. We like the itineraries that involve encountering orangutans and the Iban tribespeople in Borneo (10-day trip from £1,390 per person), riding horseback through the wilderness and camping under the stars in Mongolia (15day trip from £2,050 per person), and treasure hunting in the Andean jungle with island hopping on Lake Titicaca in Peru (14-day trip from £1,799 per person). Wild Frontiers (020 7736 3968; wildfrontierstravel.com).

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TRENDING NOW...

ENJOY A FINE STAY IN PARIS Onefinestay, which rents out stylish private homes for holidays, launches in the French capital this month. Will you choose the airy, three-bedroom, Hausmann-style apartment (below) on rue des Martyrs in the 9th? It has parquet floors, a huge kitchen-dining room and a bunk room filled with teddies, toys and children’s books, and costs from £305 per night – a bargain for Paris! Or, for families on a tighter budget, will it be a cool, one-bedroom pad on rue des Archives in Beaubourg, from just £135 per night? onefinestay.com

TREND: RECREATING YOUR GAP YEAR We love the growing trend for teenagers doing gap year-style voluntary work, such as conserving loggerhead turtles in Greece’s western Peloponnese with Global Vision International (gviworld.co.uk), and home-building and teaching English in a Mayan village in Guatemala with Hands Up Holidays (handsupholidays.co.uk). For something closer to home, check out the excellent Conservation Volunteers website (tcv.org.uk).

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teenagers can help conserve endangered turtles in the peloponnese family traveller.com 24/09/2013 14:50


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TRENDING NOW...

WALKS OF LIFE For some family rambling inspiration, check out the National Trust’s annual Great British Walks festival, which runs across the country from now till Sunday 3 November. You can join in with one of the guided walks (which range from two

hours to two days), or simply download details of one of the National Trust’s many family-friendly walks from its website. Our favourite is the easy-but-beautiful Wicken Fen wildlife walk in Cambridgeshire. nationaltrust.org.uk

If you loved Pinocchio as a child, don’t miss his new ‘autobiography’, Pinocchio by Pinocchio by Michael ‘War Horse’ Morpurgo, which is published on 26 September. Celebrate by booking Bailey Robinson’s Pinocchio Experience at the Hotel Savoy in Florence, Italy, which includes a workshop with craftsman Barbara Bersellini. Learn to sculpt your own piece of wood into a puppet and take a tour of the best puppet and toy makers in the city (including La Bottega di Mastro Gepetto), with cakes at Pasticceria Sieni and one of the Pinocchio classics to read at bedtime. From £2,665 for a family of four in September. Bailey Robinson (01488 689700; baileyrobinson.com).

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SOAR AWAY TO THE SUNSHINE Great news for winter sun-seekers. BA will be flying from Heathrow to Gran Canaria every Saturday from October half-term until 29 March 2014. Much of the island is spectacularly beautiful and it has some seriously lovely places to stay, including the family-friendly Finca Las Longueras (doubles from €95), set within orchards near Agaete. ba.com; i-escape.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: 4CORNERS; ALAMY; CORBIS; GETTY IMAGES; PLAINPICTURE/CULTURA; REX FEATURES

BECOME A PUPPET MASTER

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

RELAX IN LUXURY

Clockwise from above: the beautiful port of Villefranche, France; enjoying the Flowrider surf simulator; playing mini golf onboard; kids will love meeting favourite Dreamworks characters

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WIN A CRUISE

SEVEN NIGHTS IN THE MEDITERRANEAN WITH ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL A luxury cruise must be won for a family of four aboard Liberty of the Seas

C

ut loose from everyday life with seven nights aboard the Royal Caribbean International ship Liberty of the Seas. Designed with pleasure in mind, this seven-night trip around the Mediterranean invites you to unwind from the moment you arrive. There is so much to do for the whole family - water babies will have an exhilarating time in the H2O Zone Water Park, teenagers will love riding waves on the Flowrider surf simulator; and parents can relax in the ship’s spectacular ‘hanging’ whirlpools or luxuriate at the

Vitality Spa. On this seven-night Western Mediterranean cruise you’ll also enjoy the very best that Europe has to offer. Sailing from the Catalan hub of Barcelona, the Liberty of the Seas will immerse you in Mediterranean culture; whether you’re tucking into saltimbocca in a Roman piazza or strolling past the bright waterfront lights of glamorous Nice, you’ll take home more incredible memories than you can ever imagine.

For more information on all Royal Caribbean International cruises, visit royalcaribbean.co.uk

HOW TO WIN THIS HOLIDAY TO WIN THIS FABULOUS SEVEN-NIGHT CRUISE WITH ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL SIMPLY GO ONLINE AND ANSWER THE QUESTION

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INTO THE CITY / REYKJAVIK

THE BEAUTIFUL NORTH Abundant with natural and manmade charm, Reykjavik in Iceland, the world’s most northerly capital city, is the perfect family playground, discovers ROSIE IFOULD

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INTO THE CITY / REYKJAVIK

Y

ou might not think that a collection of old fishermen’s cottages in the far-flung north could have much to offer, but speak to anyone who’s been to Reykjavik and watch their eyes light up. Coolhunters, geologists and seasoned travellers alike flock to this pint-sized capital city to sample the bars, shops and museums in one of the natural world’s most spectacular settings. Proof that good things come in small packages, Reykjavik is tiny – it’s possible to walk around it in just a couple of hours, making sightseeing easy even for little legs. There’s plenty to keep all ages entertained from the comic book art of postmodernist Erró to gory Viking sagas and puffin-spotting. Whatever your tastes, this city is bound to charm you. After all, who could fail to love a place that boasts its very own Elf School?

children. Teens, however, will like being treated like grown-ups. holt.is

WHERE TO EAT

WHERE TO STAY

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur

Icelandair Natura

Don’t be put off by the office-block exterior of this hotel; it’s a gem inside, with clean modern lines and original local artwork. Situated close to the domestic airport, it boasts access to hiking trails, beaches and prime birdwatching sights. When you’re tired of whalespotting, pop in to town with a free bus pass. icelandairhotels.com/en/hotels/natura

Hlemmur Square

VIKING VACATION

In terms of location and price, it would be hard to beat the recently renovated Hlemmur Square; part hotel, part hostel for the budget-conscious (and those who prefer to self-cater). The interiors are bright, clean and colourful, but the art deco hotel really trades on its heritage – Icelandic horses greet guests out front in homage to the historic location as a meeting point for weary travellers. There’s a small cinema tucked away for wet weather days and you’re only a short distance from the Tjornin lake (see overleaf ). hlemmursquare.com

This page, clockwise from top: Laundromat café; the Kolaportið Flea Market; a traditional Icelandic home. Opposite: the Harpa concert hall, situated on the city’s old harbour

Hotel Holt

The Holt is something of an institution in Reykjavik, housing the country’s largest collection of privately owned art, which adorns walls in the public areas – including in the impeccable Gallery Restaurant. The hotel prides itself on its boutique feel but is perhaps not the best place to stay with younger

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Anyone who’s anyone is said to have eaten at Bæjarins Beztu, but if you’re expecting Iceland’s answer to The Ivy, think again. The owners claim this is, in fact, the best hot dog stand in Europe (which is roughly what the name means in English). And, since it’s been going for more than 75 years, boasting customers including Bill Clinton, they might be right. Its harbour location is out in the open, so it doesn’t work as a retreat on a rainy day. But for a cheap, filling snack, you won’t find a better bargain. bbp.is

Laekjarbrekka

Housed in one of the city’s oldest buildings, this is the place to go for a last-night treat. Famed for its modern take on traditional Icelandic dishes, the restaurant will appeal to adventurous types, who will relish the opportunity to try such delicacies as puffin salad and reindeer steak. If you’re feeling more conventional, then the lamb roasted in mountain herbs is also a winner and some claim this is the place in Reykjavik to try lobster. Unless you’re going early evening you will almost certainly have to book, but try to get a table with a view out across Bankastræti, as it is great for watching the world go by. laekjarbrekka.is

Fjorugardurinn

Seal skins are optional for guests at this restaurant in the heart of the ‘Viking Village’, but any How To

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into the city / reykjavik

Train Your Dragon fans in your family will love the chance to rub shoulders with authentic-looking serving staff. Fjorugardurinn serves up traditional Viking feasts, complete with drinking horns to encourage a spot of lusty singing from the grown-ups. There’s plenty of entertainment on offer, from pre-arranged kidnapping to traditional Norse storytelling. Be prepared for a Valkyrie or two to appear while you tuck into the buffet, and don’t be alarmed if a sword-wielding gentleman takes a sudden interest in you – he probably just wants to crown you as an honorary Viking for the night. fjorukrain.is/en/veitingastaðir/viking-restaurant

WHERE TO SHOP

Kolaportið Flea Market

Grab a bargain at this market, held on the harbour every weekend. Housed in a huge industrial warehouse, it isn’t well signposted, so look for a stream of people heading in the same direction and you should end up in the right place. Inside, you’ll find a treasure trove of the weird and the wonderful, from second-hand toys and neon wigs to fermented shark (known as hakarl, it’s a local delicacy that is definitely an acquired taste). If shark isn’t your thing, then there are plenty of other treats available in the food court. kolaportid.is

The Collective of Young Designers

HOT SPOT

Above: the Blue Lagoon. Top right: a local man in the iconic lopapeysa Icelandic jumper

Handknitting Association of Iceland

If you’re still hankering after your very own Sarah Lund-style Scandi sweater then make sure you pay a visit to one of the Handknitting Association of Iceland’s outlets. They are the best places in Reykjavik to buy an authentic lopapeysa woollen jumper, which is the iconic sweater that’s worn by all Icelanders, and which can be seen everywhere in the city; teamed with skinny jeans on twentysomething clubbers or worn over overalls by grizzled harbourside trawlermen. You’ll find a wide variety of designs on offer, in sizes for all the family, so there’s no excuse not to kit

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yourselves out for your next Christmas card. If you’re a keen knitter yourself, then make sure you head to the Skolavordustig main store, where you can also buy patterns and supplies to make your very own. handknit.is

WHAT TO SEE The Blue Lagoon

Whatever the weather, the waters in the Blue Lagoon are around 38˚C, so there’s no excuse not to pack your swimming things. The setting is like taking a dip on the moon. There’s a wide range of spa treatments on offer – including pregnancy massages – and an exclusive lounge area if you want a bit of grown-up privacy, but the Blue Lagoon is child-friendly, too (under-13s go free). Mandatory armbands are provided for children of eight and under, and there’s a special treatment menu at the spa for children of six upwards. Try the Crazy Lab land tour to find out more about the geothermal energy that keeps Reykjavik going. bluelagoon.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: 4CORNERS; ALAMY; CORBIS; GETTY IMAGES; ROBERT HARDING

Teens looking for something they can show off to friends back home will love the ‘secret-shop’ feel of The Collective of Young Designers. Tucked away beneath the Hemmi og Valdi coffee shop at Laugavegur 21, it’s run, as the name suggests, by a dozen up-and-coming designers who man the tills themselves. The stock is an eclectic mishmash of handmade clothes and accessories, from jewelcoloured button necklaces to edgy asymmetric sweaters. The rough and ready décor of the store itself (where the changing rooms are in the loo) all adds to its charm. Check out its Facebook page before you go.

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Perlan

Known as The Pearl in English thanks to its striking glass dome roof, Perlan is one of those buildings that has to be seen up close to be truly appreciated. Five gigantic water storage tanks have been remodelled to create a vast exhibition space and concert area, housing a wide variety of exhibitions on everything from folklore to Icelandic pop. Perched on top is the revolving restaurant, which takes around two hours to complete a full rotation – meaning a leisurely lunch should give you a complete 360-degree view of the city. Children will love the simulated geysers that ‘erupt’ every few minutes. perlan.is

WHERE TO PLAY

Tjornin (meaning ‘lake’ or ‘pond’) lies in the heart of the city, and is home to more than 40 species of birds, including Arctic terns – watch out for their notorious divebombing. Along the southern shores you’ll find Hljómskálagarðurinn; a well-manicured space with a pavilion and children’s playground. It also hosts open-air concerts in the summer. A walk round Tjornin takes roughly an hour. If you fancy a bit of an art tour, pick up a copy of the City Statues brochure from the tourist office, which will help you navigate your way round the park’s fascinating collection of sculptures.

Icelandair (0844 811 1190; icelandair.co.uk) flies from Glasgow, Gatwick, Heathrow and Manchester to Keflavík, from around £195 return. Shuttle buses, which you can catch from outside the airport, make regular journeys into Reykjavik – around 45 minutes away.

LOVE OF A COLD CLIMATE

This page, clockwise from above: the Sólfar Viking ship sculpture on the seafront; antiques shop on Vesturgata; the Perlan

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ASK THE EXPERTS

OUR CONTRIBUTORS HAVE A WEALTH OF TRAVEL KNOWLEDGE – FEEL FREE TO ASK THEM ANYTHING…

CAN I GET MY KIDS INVOLVED IN A SINGSONG?

Q

We’re taking our three children – aged nine, 12 and 14 – on a camping holiday during the half-term holidays. Left to their own devices, the kids will happily plug themselves into their iPods. But I have fond memories of campfire singalongs with my family when I was a child, and I’d love to revive the tradition. Do you have any tips on how to get the children involved? Alison Black, Southend-on-Sea

HOW DO I IMPRESS MY FOODIE FAMILY?

Q

This September we’re spending a long weekend in the New Forest with my extended family, including my gifted, foodie sister. For once, I want to make sure my culinary offerings stand out from her delicious creations. What ingredients do you suggest I pack? Helen Anderson, Cardiff

CERYS MATTHEWS SAYS:

CLAIRE MCDONALD SAYS:

A

Ah, sibling rivalry. Tell me about it. Despite the eternal desire to compete with your sister, I’d say, relax and enjoy. Someone else wants to take the heat in the kitchen? Let them. Just be sufficiently grateful and greedy. Not good enough? Next best thing is to tick some foodie boxes. There’s no point transporting a complicated confection, so keep it simple, seasonal and local. Find a Pick Your Own and immerse yourself in the New Forest’s bounty. Pick blackberries and apples, and a delicious crumble is just moments away. Good food needn’t be complicated. Claire writes the award-winning family food blog Crumbsfood.co.uk with her sister, Lucy. They also have a YouTube channel, Crumbsfood, which specialises in easy-to-make recipes.

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A

Throw the iPods into the campfire – the kids will soon start making a noise. Seriously, though, I suggest waiting till dark and then start up a song with a strange and frightening theme – try The House of The Rising Sun (the words and tune of which you’ll find in my book Hook, Line & Singer). Children love to be scared a little, and are fascinated by the macabre. These traditional songs were used to inform and educate, and faced squarely up to subjects like death, ill-health and misfortune – and kids will find them utterly compelling. You won’t be able to shut them up.

Mum of three Cerys, formerly of the band Catatonia, is best known as a singer-songwriter. She presents a Sunday show on BBC 6 Music. Her book Hook, Line & Singer (£20, Particular Books) is out now.

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ARE WALES’S ‘SECRET BEACHES’ SAFE FOR KIDS? WHAT TRICKS CAN WE PLAY AT HALLOWEEN?

Q

We’re going to Wales at half-term, and will be staying in a cottage near St. David’s, Pembrokeshire. We hadn’t really thought of it as a beach holiday, but a friend told us there are some amazing unspoilt coves nearby. Are these child-friendly? We don’t want our eight-year-old to end up with a broken leg. Simon Webber, by email

Q

We’re going to be in Scotland for Halloween – staying at a hotel in a former castle. Our three teenagers like to believe they’re un-scareable, but my wife and I think that the spooky setting could be perfect for turning that assumption on its head. Do you know any ghoulish holiday pranks that we could pull, which will really scare the pants off them? Andy McKlintock, Omagh

ROB SMITH SAYS:

A

St David’s peninsula has some beautiful, child-friendly coves, including Porthlysgi (above)in the southwest. To get there, park in the main car park at Porth Clais and follow the coastal path for about 15 minutes past the old lime kilns. You’ll be led to a secret beach. Porthmelgan, in the north of the peninsula, is also great for children. Leave your car by the popular Whitesands Bay (aka Porth Mawr) and take the coastal path, signposted St David’s Head. After 100 metres take the right fork, and right again after the kissing gate. After the footbridge, follow the pathway left to the beach.

RICHARD MCCOURT SAYS:

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES; REX FEATURES; SHUTTERSTOCK

A

Ah bonnie Scotland. Dom and I have spent a lot of time up there filming over the years! Here are our thoughts on a ghoulish prank… At night, wait until it’s really quiet and they’re fast asleep, then open their bedroom door very quickly and scream ‘BOGIES’ at the top of your voice like a madman. This will possibly finish them off. If not, repeat the above but with a bucket of creamy muck muck (custard) and throw it on them while they’re asleep. Richard McCourt, better known as Dick from children’s comedy duo Dick and Dom, has won two BAFTAs for the show Dick and Dom in da Bungalow. The pair are regulars on the CBBC channel.

Rob Smith is the author of Secret Beaches: Wales (£14.95, One More Grain of Sand). For more information, visit secretbeaches.co.uk.

Send your questions by email to jennifer@familytraveller.com; on Twitter to @FamTraveller; or by post to Family Traveller Q&A, 5 Langley Street, London WC2H 9JA.

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FASHION / KIDS

THE STYLE COUNSEL

Emma Smith keeps dedicated followers of fashion in the know

CHECK THIS OUT A key trend for boys this season is checks; all the cool kids want to be seen in them. Mini Boden’s latest boys’ collection has a British Heritage theme featuring tartan and check. Keep the look simple with a plain T-shirt, or mix and match with different-sized checks in contrasting colours. Trousers, £28; jumper, £28 (both in sizes 18 months to eight years); trainers, £38 (sizes 24 to 37). boden.co.uk

IF YOU GO DOWN TO THE WOODS TODAY Inspired by woodland, this collection from Tootsa MacGinty founder Kate Pietrasik, available at John Lewis, celebrates all things leafy and rustling. Cue cute creatures in hues of burnt orange, forest green and rich red. tootsamacginty.com; johnlewis.com

GO WEST

ROAR POWER This backpack will make your child the envy of everyone at school. Its bright palette and cheery grin will brighten up even the mistiest autumn morning. Also ideal for hand luggage or a weekend getaway. gap.co.uk

Ilovegorgeous, which designs exclusively for girls from newborn to 13 years, is renowned for its classic, flattering silhouettes made with a modern twist, and its Autumn/Winter 13 collection offers up another sumptuous selection. Prints are inspired by swirling autumn leaves, retro Mary Jane collars are incorporated onto tops and dresses, and heartprint motifs are used on cosy knits. We are particularly fond of these playsuits, £75, inspired by the Wild West. ilovegorgeous.com

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FASHION / MEN HOLD TIGHT Stylish carry-on luggage is a great investment for travellers. Leather lasts a lifetime and a mid-sized holdall is big enough to fit a few days’ luggage in. Reiss has produced some refined options as part of its new collection – entitled The Journeyman – and we’re especially fond of the Centureous holdall, £235. reiss.com

JOIN THE CREW J.Crew, the US high-street heavyweight, is renowned for its quality design and easy-towear staples for women, men and children. So there is much excitement surrounding the very first UK flagship store, due to open in November on London’s Regent Street. But, before that, it opens a men’s only store on 10 October at 38 Lamb’s Conduit Street. Gentlemen, form an orderly queue. jcrew.com

CLARKS GETS COOL If Clarks conjures up images of style-free school shoes, then think again. Highlights of its new collection include takes on the cup-sole tennis shoe and basketball trainer. But our top pick is this mid-rise trainer featuring on-trend tartan, £50, exclusively designed by Strathmore. clarks.co.uk

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BRITANNIA RULES Marks and Spencer is launching Best of British, an exclusive new range for women and men, which celebrates British design and manufacture. All items are made using high-quality British fabrics and have been designed in partnership with the British Fashion Council. David Gandy loved the Prince of Wales check overcoat so much, he asked to keep the prototype loaned to him. Shirts, £99; jumpers, £149; jackets, £275–£599; trousers, £99. marksandspencer.com

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FASHION / WOMEN GOOD KARMA Go for laid-back glamour with chic beachwear brand Karma. My-wardrobe’s Fashion Director Carmen Borgonovo has joined with the brand to launch an exclusive capsule collection of holiday essentials. Fusing vibrant colours and tropical details, the range includes this Mauritius shift with a stand-out geometric pattern. Wear it on the beach with metallic sandals and cats-eye shades, or with wedges and an oversized gold necklace after dark. my-wardrobe.com

CALL TO ARMS If summer was all about making a statement with neckwear, then autumn is about adding drama to our wrists. A statement cuff is the must-wear jewellery item of the season – and the more graphic, the better. This TopShop creation, £17.50, balances delicacy with chunky design. topshop.com

THE MUST-HAVE JACKET The perennially chic biker jacket has been stripped back with this minimalist number from Reiss, £265. Featuring clean lines and an asymmetric zip, this will take you from day to night with ease. In one of the key colour trends – monochrome – it’ll work with most items in your wardrobe. reiss.com

IT’S A WRAP

NEW SEASON = NEW ACCESSORIES

Nothing transforms an outfit as much as a to-die-for shoe. For AW13, Hobbs has teamed up with Olivia Morris to offer an exquisite collection of glossy Italian leather and soft suede shoes – all handmade in Italy. Top of our wish-list are these two-tone platform ankle boots, £249. hobbs.co.uk

A scarf is a must-have when travelling on a plane. It’s perfect for privacy if you’re breastfeeding and ideal for when the air-con gets too chilly. Then, when you get to your destination, it can be worn to dress up an evening outfit. This ontrend pink offering from Coast, £25, will happily see you through the season. coast-stores.com

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FINDING NEVERLAND Lost boys and darling girls evoke the spirit of Peter Pan and Wendy on Canada’s Vancouver Island. Photographs by PAIGE BIRNIE. Creative direction by DAN NGUYEN

Alex wears striped shirt, £12.99, Zara (zara.com); denim shirt, £60, Ralph Lauren (ralphlauren.co.uk); boots, £55, Timberland (timberlandonline.co.uk). Paisley wears dress, £80, Ralph Lauren, as before; cardigan, £39.95, Mexx Kids (mexx.eu); shoes, £60, Geox (uk.geox.com).

Stylist: Krista Sung (kristasung.com). Assistant stylist: Carla Pedersen. Hair and makeup: Dan Nguyen for LURE Salon (luresalon.com), using Oribe Hair Care and MAC Cosmetics. Hair and make-up assistant: Kimberly Hoogendoorn. Photographer’s assistant: Daniela Ialamov. Special thanks to Adore Fashions (adorefashions.com) and Isola Bella (isolabellakids.com).

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fashion / vancouver island

This page, top (from left): Finley wears hooded knit waistcoat, £14.99; T-shirt, £7.99; jeans, £14.99, all H&M (hm.com); boots, £55, Timberland (timberlandonline.co.uk). Charlie wears shirt, £9.95, Gap Kids (gap.co.uk); jeans, £12.99, H&M, as before; boots, £43, Palladium Boots (palladiumboots.co.uk). Darius wears shirt, £12.99, Zara (zara.com); jeans, £19.95, Gap Kids, as before; shoes, £55, Geox (uk.geox.com). Tristain wears hooded shirt, £80, Armani Junior (armani.com); trousers, £9.99, H&M, as before; boots, £45, Palladium Boots, as before. Above left: Stella wears poncho, £39.95; jean dress, £49.95, both Mexx Kids (mexx. eu); leggings, £4.99, H&M, as before. Paisley wears sweater, £19.95, Gap Kids, as before; T-shirt, £39, Tommy Hilfiger Kids (uk.tommy.com); skirt, £99, Burberry Kids (uk.burberry.com); leggings, £7.99, Zara, as before. Above right: Charlie wears shirt, £6.99; jeans, £12.99, both H&M, as before; shoes, £55, Geox, as before. Shya wears shirt, £8.95, Gap Kids, as before; jacket, £67.50, Tommy Hilfiger Kids, as before; leggings, £5.99, H&M, as before; boots, £90, Geox, as before. Opposite: Alex wears shirt, £110, Dior Junior (dior.com); trenchcoat, £1,495, Burberry (uk.burberry.com); jeans, £17.99, H&M, as before; boots, £80, Native Shoes (nativeshoes.com).

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Christiana wears collared shirt, £45, Tommy Hilfiger Kids (uk.tommy.com); dress, £14.99, H&M (hm.com); boots, £45, Palladium Boots (palladiumboots.co.uk). Stella wears jumper, £7.99, H&M, as before; skirt, £55, Lacoste (shop-uk.lacoste.com); boots, £43, Palladium Boots, as before.

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fashion / vancouver island

Above: Tristain wears jumper, £120, Bonpoint (bonpoint-boutique.com); jeans and braces, £17.99, H&M (hm.com); boots, £45, Palladium Boots (palladiumboots.co.uk). Finley wears black shirt, £60, Bonpoint, as before; plaid shirt, £17.99, Zara (zara.com); jeans, £14.99, H&M, as before; boots, £55, Timberland (timberlandonline.co.uk). Opposite: Christiana wears hat, £5.99; T-shirt, £4.99, H&M, as before; cardigan, £22.99, Zara, as before; skirt, £127, Gaultier Junior (jeanpaulgaultier.com); boots, £52, Timberland, as before. Felicity wears vintage feather headdress; jumper dress, £84, Paul Smith Junior (paulsmith.co.uk); biker jacket, £19.99, H&M, as before; shoes, £115, Geox (uk.geox.com),

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fashion / vancouver island

Above: Paisley wears trenchcoat, £295, Burberry Kids (uk.burberry.com); dress, £25.99, Zara (zara.com). Stella wears shirt, £32, Stella McCartney Kids (stellamccartney.com); blazer, £60, Lacoste (shop-uk.lacoste.com); skirt, £7.99, H&M (hm.com). Opposite, from left: Tristain wears shirt, £88, Burberry Kids, as before; waistcoat, £19.99, Zara, as before; trousers, £55, Lacoste, as before; shoes, £55, Geox (uk. geox.com). Finley wears jumper, £80, Burberry Kids, as before; coat, £290, Bonpoint (bonpoint-boutique. com); trousers, £55, Lacoste, as before; boots, £55, Timberland (timberlandonline.co.uk). Alex wears shirt, £81, Paul Smith Junior (paulsmith.co.uk); cardigan, £19.95, Gap Kids (gap.co.uk); jeans, £12.99, H&M, as before; shoes, £85, Native Shoes (nativeshoes.com).

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BEAUTY PERFECT POUT

AUTUMN SHADES

If lipstick blended with anti-ageing serum sounds like a dream, then L’Oréal’s Colour Riche Serum, £8.69, is the reality. Imbued with collagen and other skinboosting smarts, this will keep your lips soft and plump well into the winter. Of its eight wearable shades, this Sparkling Rose is our handbag must-have. loreal-paris.co.uk

Clarins’s new autumn make-up collection Graphic Expressions puts the emphasis firmly on defined, intense eyes. The Eye Quartet mineral palette, £31, is made up of four gorgeous forest shades – layer and smudge for subtle, smoky eyes. clarins.co.uk

PERFEC FO R T H T N E W SE E AS O N

BEAUTY NEWS

All the latest autumn essentials for your beauty bag, reviewed by SARAH MABER

BOX OF DELIGHTS

LET YOUR HAIR DOWN

Bobbi Brown’s winning collaboration with Katie Holmes continues with The Bobbi & Katie Collection. It includes a palette for eyes, cheeks and lips, £42.50, with eight eye shadows, two pot rouges and one mini eye pencil. There’s also a mini brush set with four brushes in one chic bag. bobbibrown.com

Intense treatments can easily have a detrimental effect on damaged hair. If you’re looking for a deep conditioner that leaves hair luscious, you’ll find it in Aussie’s new 3 Minute Miracle Moist Deeeeep Treatment, £4.99, which is specially formulated for damaged locks. aussiehair.com

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NEW YOUNG PEONY CLUB

SAVE OUR SKINS

Sensuous new fragrance Jo Malone London Peony & Blush Suede cologne, combines the sweetness of peonies with a twist of apple and suede. The collection includes 30ml and 100ml colognes (£31.20 and £62.40 respectively), a 250ml Body & Hand Wash, £25.60, a 175ml Body Crème, £40, and a 200g Home Candle, £31.20. jomalone.co.uk

Overdone it in the sun this summer? Clinique’s Repairwear Laser Focus, £40 for 30ml, is a powerhouse serum that smoothes and refines skin thanks to a high peptide complex that boosts natural collagen production. It also contains a potent blend of repair enzymes to correct UV damage. clinique.com

FLESH IDEAS

A NEW ANGLE

Is your skin looking tired and dull? Well, there’s a wonderful new product to breathe life back into your complexion. Kiehl’s Skin Rescuer, £29.50 for 75ml, soothes, hydrates and heals stressed skin using rosa gallica extract, mannose and camomile. It’s so hydrating there’s no need for a separate moisturiser. kiehls.com

If the summer was about pink, peachy lips, autumn focuses on the eyes. In the quest for longer lashes, Clarins has created Be Long Mascara, £21, which combines a strengthening formula with a new, tilted brush design to deliver long, immaculate lashes in just one application. We heart. clarins.co.uk

GOOD TO GLOW

SOFT FOCUS

There’s a new foundation on the block and it covers flaws like a dream. Bobbi Brown Luminous Moisturizing Treatment Foundation, £27.20, offers long-term hydration and gets skin glowing thanks to its light-reflection formula. If you’re looking for a product that gives a natural look in the day as well as medium coverage, you’ve found it. bobbibrown.com

As summer tans fade, skin often needs warming up. Chanel’s Universelle Poudre Libre, £36, is a brilliant complexion booster that softly illuminates and sculpts. Sweep the peachy beige powder over skin and marvel at the wonderfully enhancing results. chanel.com

B EA U T Y EDITO R’S PICK

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HEALTH

HEALTH NEWS

News and tips to keep your family well. By SARAH MABER

STRESS-FREE COMMUTING?

Here’s another reason to love camping: a report published in the Journal of Biology suggests that sleeping in a tent, and being exposed to a natural cycle of daylight and darkness, could cure insomnia. Researchers found that after a week, participants found it easier to get to sleep and were much more alert in the morning. ‘By increasing our exposure to sunlight and reducing our exposure to electrical lighting at night, we can make it easier to awaken and be alert in the morning,’ says lead researcher Kenneth Wright, of the University of Colorado, Boulder. Why? Electric lights and devices such as TVs, computers and iPads have affected our ability to prepare for sleep. If you can’t face a week-long camping trip, the researchers suggest walks to increase exposure to sunlight during the day and, in the evening, keep the lights low and computers, touchscreens and the television off.

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HOW TO FLY LONG-HAUL AND STAY HEALTHY Do... take eye drops. Longhaul, overnight flights could leave your eyes dry and painful; eye drops are an essential carry-on. We like Optrex Bloodshot Eye Drops, £4.29 for 10ml (boots.com). Don’t... head to the bar when you get to the airport. Drinking alcohol risks dehydration, which increases the risk of deep-vein thrombosis on flights. Do... make sure you and your family drink plenty of water and electrolyte solutions such as Lucozade. Avoid caffeine, too. Do... move around regularly, at least once an hour. Walk up and down the plane, move and flex your legs. Wear compression socks during the flight. Don’t... wear anything tight – skinny jeans, suits or anything that might impede

blood flow are out. Don’t forget to take off your shoes, as ankles may swell up at high altitudes. Do... invest in a good moisturiser. Your skin needs hydration during a long-haul flight. Do... take 100ml of Calpol on board if you’re travelling with children. Teething, earache or a temperature might strike at any point during the flight, and you’ll be able to dose them up. Don’t... count on your children eating airline food. Children can be fussy eaters at the best of times, and may reject the in-flight meals on offer. Make sandwiches, bring dried and fresh fruit - bananas are a godsend; as well as being nutritious and filling, they also contain the amino acid Tryptophan, which encourages sleep.

family traveller.com

BEGIN BUZZING Boost your energy and immunity this autumn with Bee Prepared’s potent, natural supplement Max Strength Immune Support, £11.99. It combines bee propolis, black elderberry, olive leaf and beta glucans, as well as astaxanthin and reishi mushroom in an all-inone concentrated formula. victoriahealth.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES

IN-TENTS SLEEP TRAINING

Playing music helps you relax and shrinks your sense of space, so you are less likely to feel stressed and uncomfortable on crowded commuter trains, according to researchers at Royal Holloway, University of London. Participants listening to tunes they enjoyed on headphones said they were able to put up with being in much greater proximity to strangers than those who weren’t listening to music.

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experiences

October Half Term Sporting Break Triathlon: 27 October 2013 This year Forte Village will be opening especially for October half term, launching a new triathlon, open to both adults and children. In true Italian style, a programme has been put together to ensure the whole family has a fantastic holiday experience at the Forte Village Resort in beautiful Sardinia

Have you heard about our Legendary Shared Experiences ? Easter Holiday at Forte Village Resort in Sardinia

12th – 19th April 2014

Many other organised activities

First class cricket coaching under the Caribbean sun Rugby • Cricket • Tennis • Basketball • Golf Hockey • Netball • Triathlon Training Enjoy an incredible family holiday with a difference at the Forte Village Resort in Sardinia. Children aged 5 – 16 years can receive coaching in a choice of sports from true legends of the game, including Will

St Lucia February 2014

Greenwood, Austin Healey and Paul Nixon.

2014 Rugby Academies

From 15th – 22nd February 2014, Cricket Legend Andrew Strauss will be joining the Super Skills Team for our first ever Cricket Academy at The Landings Hotel in beautiful St Lucia. As part of an incredible family holiday experience, Children aged 5 –16 years can enjoy expert coaching at the Island’s National Stadium from a true legend of the game. Whether you’d rather be exploring all that this breathtaking Island has to offer, playing cricket, sampling the local cuisine or relaxing on the tranquil beach or in the spa, there’s plenty for the whole family to enjoy this February.

First class rugby coaching at one of the world’s leading holiday resorts Our rugby academies return next year featuring legends such as Will Greenwood, Austin Healey

If you’ve covered the family holiday, our legendary ski trips are the perfect short break for adults

Sainte Foy January/February

and Martin Johnson

24th – 31st May 5th – 26th July 16th – 30th August

2014

For further information or to book, please call: 01858 545918 email: info@superskillsexperiences.com or visit: www.superskillsexperiences.com

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Proud to be in partnership with

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NUTRITION

W Going away with young children who aren’t yet ready to eat with the family can be daunting. How do you provide a balanced diet when you don’t have access to cooking facilities? Nutritionist Claire Baseley has some tips

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SPEEDY COUS COUS

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PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES

HAPPY HEALTHY HOLIDAYS

Breakfast could simply be a fruit and hen you go yoghurt combination, or it could be beefed away, take up with some oats soaked in fruit juice – your child’s pop a few sachets of oats in your suitcase usual bowl for quick and easy breakfast options. and spoon Savoury foods can be just as easy. so that they You just need to think ahead and have some do a little checking in the local shops. familiarity when they are eating in a new Cous cous is easy to pack in your suitcase environment. A few baby-food pouches and prepare when you’re away – so long in the suitcase can also help in the first as you have access to a kettle to boil day or two, before you’ve worked out water. It makes a great base for adding what local foods are available and other foods, such as mashed, canned where. Just make sure you declare them pulses or my recipe when you depart idea (left). from the airport. Holidays with There are plenty little ones don’t of fruits that you have to be a chore. should be able to With a little find locally, which planning and can be eaten with strategic packing, minimal preparation you can create – ie, washing, delicious and peeling and mashing. easy meals Try banana, avocado without a kitchen. (a rich source of Claire Baseley essential fats), is a registered melon, papaya, Cous cous nutritionist mango and peach. If 50g canned tuna (drained weight) specialising in baby you can get hold of 1 avocado and children’s natural yoghurt pots, nutrition. She is these can be mixed Make up the cous cous in a bowl by also the nutritionist with fruit to give a adding one part cous cous to one at Ella’s Kitchen good source of part water (the amount will depend (ellaskitchen.co.uk). protein and calcium. on how old your child is). Leave the cous cous covered for 10 minutes and then fluff up with a fork. Add the tuna and 1-2 tbsp avocado. Mix well and enjoy.

family traveller.com 24/09/2013 15:27


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EXPLORE Find your memorable family holiday at familytraveller.com – which features everything from the top 10 beachside hotels and 10 of the best child-friendly ski resorts to the latest hair products for manic mums and delicious camping recipes. Get the lowdown on all your family-holiday needs. Plus, enter our incredible and exclusive competitions.

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24/09/2013 15:36


FAMILY FINANCE

MAX YOUR MONEY

Financial expert JASMINE BIRTLES reveals some handy ways for families to make big savings on travel costs

If you’re hiring a car on your next trip, make sure you sort out your own insurance before you leave. As the recession bites across Europe, many car-hire companies abroad are looking for any excuse to make extra cash out of unwary customers – so even a small scratch can incur a hefty fine that you can’t wriggle out of. Don’t rely on the insurance that seems to come with the package. Although CDW (Collision Damage Waiver), third-party liability and theft are often included in the rental price, companies can still charge you an excess of up to £2,000. Their own extra insurance packages are also overpriced. So, before you leave, take a look at what’s on offer on the web. Sites such as icarhireinsurance.com offer annual and daily rates for Europe, the US, Canada and the rest of the world. Daily rates start at just £2.99 for trips lasting up to 21 days, depending on where you’re headed. Also take a look at uk.protectyourbubble.com and reducemyexcess.co.uk for daily rates starting at £1.99. These sites allow you to enter your travel dates and destination for a price quote.

get cheaper calls abroad

You can save up to 98 per cent on international roaming costs with a new international SIM card provider. SIM cards from HolidayPhone.co.uk are

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available when visiting Spain, China, USA and 25 other holiday destinations. The company also offers data SIM cards and a Mobile WiFi Hotspot for those travelling with carrier-locked mobile phones. It says, for example, that someone using 1GB data, sending 50 texts and making one hour of calls and receiving one hour of calls from the UK while in the US would pay £740 with O2 and £2,181 with Vodafone, but with HolidayPhone it would cost just £84.90. The same usage in Spain would cost £421 with O2 and £495.51 with Vodafone, but just £42.70 with HolidayPhone.

is it possible to bag a genuinely ‘cheap’ flight?

Budget airlines and cheap travel deals are advertised everywhere, but misleading prices and deceptive deals have got UK holidaymakers questioning the true meaning of ‘cheap’. According to Gocompare.com, 84 per cent of people feel that a cheap return flight should be less than £100. However, 75 per cent of British travellers claimed they have never managed to get a genuinely budget flight at the headline advertised price, and felt that once taxes and extra charges were added the flights could no longer be considered low-cost. Ryanair topped the poll in the budget airline with the most misleading flight prices according to Brits. Other airlines

mentioned were easyjet, Jet2.com, Flybe and Monarch, with most people saying the least they had paid for a return flight was more than £300. If you are looking to get a proper deal with a budget airline, you need to either book very early or right at the last minute (even on the day of travel). Try to avoid extra charges by taking the minimum amount of luggage and make sure you do everything online well before getting to the airport. Airlines charge up to £140 per person, per return for airport check-in. So do it online for free first. Always print your

ILLUSTRATION: ADAM HOWLING

how to avoid being ripped off by your car-hire company

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if you travel at least twice per year, it’s usually cheaper in the long-run to get an annual policy.

will airlines let you resell your flight tickets?

boarding pass before you go. If you can’t do it at home it’s cheaper to do it in an internet cafe than pay the fee for not being able to present it at the check-in desk.

save by picking up last-minute insurance

It’s not just last-minute holidays and hotel rooms that can be picked up at half-price. Surprisingly, last-minute travel insurance can be cheaper than the norm. It may sound odd, but the closer you get

to your departure date the cheaper the premiums become as there is less chance of you having to claim on the cancellation element of the policy. ‘If you’re planning a last-minute trip, check out last-minute travel insurance,’ says Beth Macer from payingtoomuch. com. ‘Many insurance companies can even cover you on the day you are due to travel, as the documentation can often be sent immediately via email.’ This is particularly true if you’re buying single-trip travel insurance, but it applies to annual policies, too. Remember that

If you have to cancel a flight, and it’s not a reason your insurers will accept, it’s sometimes possible to resell the ticket. However, it depends which airline you have bought your ticket from and what type of ticket it is. British Airways won’t let you change a passenger’s name on any of its tickets. Virgin Atlantic, Emirates and BMI also don’t allow passengers to change the names on tickets, regardless of the price. However, Flybe.com offers three types of ticket; Essentials, New Economy and Plus, which have a range of fees included. Name changes across all tickets can be done up to two hours before departing over the phone or at the airport from £40. Ryanair allows it, but it charges £110 to change passenger names online and £160 at the airport up to four hours before departing. easyJet also allows it and charges less – £35 per passenger per flight for a name change online and £40 at the airport or over the phone. All of the above allow you to change the flight completely, too – but, of course, you will also have to pay the difference if the new flight is more expensive.

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PEACE OF MIND IN A PACKAGE There are many reasons, some unexpected, why it pays to travel with a fully bonded package-tour operator, as SARAH BELCHER reveals

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TOTAL PROTECTION

family traveller.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: IMAGE SOURCE; PLAINPICTURE/CULTURA

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hen it comes to booking your family holiday, choosing a destination – let alone the accommodation – that ticks the right boxes for you and your children can be a time-consuming and stressful experience. Will the villa with ‘wonderful sunset views’ be perched on the edge of a cliff and unsuitable for your energetic three-year-old? Will your eternally bored teenager be stimulated enough? And AITO (aito.com) is a highly what about you? Does the respected travel organisation with idea of kids’ clubs and days packed full of an unrivalled collection of exciting family-friendly activities fill you with dread? and inspirational holiday ideas The answers lie in whether you decide to from 125 award-winning specialist book independently or to opt for a package holiday companies. Each holiday. Many of us don’t realise that member offers its customers a booking a package offers many advantages 100 per cent financial-protection to the family traveller. guarantee and all are bound by to ensure brochures and other media clearly AITO’s Quality Charter to ensure and accurately describe the holidays and the highest levels of quality and ACCOUNTABILITY services offered. Moreover, booking a customer service, regardless of holiday (including flights) through a The first advantage is accountability. the price paid. Members are Tour operators are obliged to be honest and reputable and fully bonded tour operator also committed to AITO’s upfront about the destination and (look for the AITO, ABTA and ATOL logos sustainable-tourism guidelines. accommodation they offer. And if to be sure) means that you will be looked a description of a property makes after if there is a delay or When booking a package trip, exaggerated claims, consumers are within a flight cancellation. And we all know that always look for the ATOL, ABTA and their rights to ask for their money back. But flight delays and children don’t mix. AITO accreditations to ensure your Tour operators are legally obliged to if you’ve booked the rogue property online holiday is fully protected, financially. make alternative flight arrangements – at with a private owner, you’d be at the mercy of the local courts if something went wrong their expense, not yours – in the event of – which could be both expensive and anything going wrong with your flight. They are also required to look after you (for long-winded. And, of course, there’s the risk example, by providing meal vouchers and overnight that a property might not be owned by those accommodation) in the – hopefully unlikely – event of advertising it or might not even exist in the claimed a substantial delay. location – not a good start to a holiday at all. Holiday specialists within the Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) offer peace of HELP AT YOUR HOLIDAY DESTINATION mind in this respect. Members subscribe to AITO’s Many package-holiday operators have representatives Quality Charter, which means they do their utmost and local agents based in the resort – all of whom are

family traveller.com 24/09/2013 15:40


Locally based agents can provide invaluable help with all kinds of activities

on hand to offer you the best advice and help in a crisis. When you have a fractious family to deal with, it’s always a relief to be able to talk to someone in person for local advice. Family emergencies can seem so much worse on holiday, when parents are out of their comfort zone. But call your tour operator, its rep or local agent, however, and help is immediately available. A smattering of the language and knowledge of the way things work at a destination – which only comes from living there – are also hugely helpful in terms of managing problems. Local know-how is the golden ticket, too, when you have a family in tow. Can a website for booking villas give you the insider knowledge that you need to keep a family happy? The possible queries are many and varied: is the local beach clean and safe? Where is it possible to book horse-riding? Is a cot available and how much does it cost to hire a child’s car seat? It is in a tour operator’s best interests to know the accommodation and destinations to which it sends its clients. Many companies are able to tailor-make multi-centre and complicated holiday itineraries to

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suit individual family needs. They can pre-book local activities with carefully vetted and properly insured suppliers, and ensure all the paraphernalia that comes with a baby is provided. It certainly saves weary working mums and dads a lot of hassle.

FINANCIAL PROTECTION

Just as important, now that the average cost of a fortnight’s family holiday is nearly £4,800, is why do so many parents take a gamble on their most precious two weeks of the year? Booking your holiday independently, and sourcing flights, car hire and accommodation direct – thus cementing a commitment to perhaps three different contracts – means that, when something goes wrong, recouping costs becomes difficult and less likely to happen. This is not the case with a package; from flight delays and bankrupt airlines to unsatisfactory accommodation and food poisoning, every holiday eventuality is covered. Please don’t be lulled into thinking that travel insurance is unnecessary – it’s a vital part of holiday planning and remains essential.

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simon reeve

SIMON REEVE

In Greece and its islands, children are expected to be seen and heard – and actively taking part at every social event. It’s perfect for holidaying families

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s the moon rose higher in the night sky the band increased in both tempo and volume. I was dancing, badly, around the centre of a village square with my toddler, but despite the late hour there were no disapproving glances from other partygoers, and nobody called Social Services. We were at a festival on the Greek island of Symi. Local kids and teenagers were bopping away and singing loudly, with other youngsters asleep on laps among the happy crowd. It was a wonderful experience that proved to me that whether you want an islandhopping adventure with teenagers or just a gentle family break, Greece is surely one of the best countries on the planet to take your children on holiday. Part of the reason is that children are welcome at almost everything. It’s the Med, of course, so toddlers and youngsters are still up after dark, and parents are always out late with them having a drink or a delicious meal. But it’s not just the balmy evenings that makes Greece so welcoming to

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stressed parents sick of countries where the noise of children playing often draws muttering and complaints. The Greeks adore having children at the centre of parties and celebrations. They’re good with youngsters because they genuinely like them and get enormous pleasure from having them around. On our way to Symi last year we took a ferry from Rhodes, and even then the tired and over-worked crew perked up visibly every time our 18-month-old Jake wandered into their view and wanted to play. It was like having extended childcare everywhere we went. We had a week on Symi, savouring turquoise waters and one of the most evocative harbours in the world. When Jake’s older we’ll take him on cheap local ferries for a potter around the Cyclades

the greeks adore having children at the centre of parties and celebrations family traveller.com

or the Dodecanese, exploring more of Greece’s 1,400 islands and endless beaches. The mainland offers everything from river-rafting to trekking across pine-covered mountains that look like the remote Canadian wilderness. Brits tend to think of Greece as a summer destination, but it’s best before and after the main tourist season and the infernal heat of July and August. Easter is a stunning time to visit, when the country is ablaze with spring colour though, personally, I prefer to go during September or October, when the sea is at its warmest but the air temperature doesn’t melt metal. Many of us travel halfway around the planet on our adventures. But Greece offers the climate of the Tropics – even as late as autumn half-term – just a few hours from the UK. Why go further? To read more of Simon Reeve’s columns, visit familytraveller.com The broadcaster and author Simon Reeve (simonreeve.co.uk) is the presenter of BBC series Indian Ocean, Tropic of Cancer and Australia. His new series is Pilgrimage, about the greatest journeys of our ancestors.

family traveller.com 25/09/2013 08:51



mariella frostrup

MARIELLA FROSTRUP Our Contributing Editor recalls the basic yet idyllic holidays of her childhood – when happiness meant having sticks to chase crabs with, seabirds to scare and a bucket to wash in

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES

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may be only part-islander with my Norwegian, Scottish, English, Danish gene-blend, but surrounded by sea is my natural habitat. Whether it’s Manhattan or the Maldives, Zanzibar or the Hebrides, my favourite destinations have all had one thing in common, they were invariably isolated by water. Apart from our move from Norway to Ireland when I was six, I didn’t travel abroad until a girlfriend enticed me to Greece in my late teens. Instead, every summer we would set off west from Dublin to the wilderness that is Connemara. If you haven’t visited, you must; it’s a wonder of the world, a region built on peat and granite, scattered with rare wild flowers, moss, and tough springy grass. The coastline is jagged, low-lying and exhausted from its beating by the Atlantic. My parents own a ruined bothy on the last of the islands that run west from Carraroe and, as soon as school finished, my brother, sister and I would be packed into the back of my Dad’s Renault 4, and we’d set off on what was then the overnight drive to get to Dinesh. The long drive concluded with

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the family clustered on the rocks opposite the island, praying that the youngest resident of the island, Johnny Loftus, would hear our hollering and row across and fetch us. Of the three diminished families still living on the island, not one of them had a phone. Once we’d finally enticed Johnny to row across in his black Curragh and rescue us, we would walk the half-mile to the cottage with our rucksacks, pitch the family tent and settle in. My parents had huge ambitions for the tiny cottage, none of which ever came to fruition, so every summer we camped in the field next to it; their obvious frustrations failing to impact on our fun. The holidays sped by as long balmy days left to our own devices; killing giant crabs with sticks for dinner; trying

long before ‘glamping’ became all the rage, we were handy with a primus family traveller.com

to catch our nearest neighbour at his poteen, brewing up the liver-busting local brew; and batting off the livid nesting birds who lived on the giant rocks. Long before terms such as ‘Staycation’ and ‘Glamping’ became all the rage, we were handy with a primus and used to performing our ablutions from a bucket drawn from the well. Despite having travelled across the globe and back since then, those summers on Dinesh remain my most treasured holiday memories. For children, particularly, I think the appeal is that islands feel contained, the world seems manageable and if they’re small enough you can get to know them in intimate detail. Danny and Molly, my pair, have already seen the Maldives and the Cyclades, Sardinia and Sicily, but I’d hazard a guess that the best fun they’ve yet to have will be exploring the island setting of my youthful adventures. Now there’s a plan for next summer. To read more of Mariella Frostrup’s columns, visit familytraveller.com Mariella Frostrup is a Contributing Editor to Family Traveller and a mother to two young children.

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IN FOCUS

CARIBBEAN

caribbean

The islands of the Caribbean Sea have a special place in the heart of those who love to travel. Their tropical terrain of white-sand beaches and swaying palms defines what a holiday should be for most of us, and we only have to look at a picture of Jamaica, Barbados, Trinidad or Dominica to instantly want to ‘be there’. But the Caribbean is much more than just a pretty face, as Family Traveller discovers over the next 20 pages.

top marx: a revolutionary cultural tour of cuba with teens. pages 62-67

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES

caribbean on a budget: stays from just £50. pages 68-75

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treasure island: the perfect family holiday on the idyllic isle of st lucia. pages 76-79

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TOP

MARX

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LIZ BOULTER and her doubtful daughter take a teen-focused tour of Cuba and find that the island of rum and revolution has it all

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hat are the ingredients of a perfect teen holiday? Smoking, drinking and gambling might be a good start. With a dash of revolutionary socialism, perhaps. I wasn’t actually intending to expose Laura, just 16, to the first three when I planned our post-GCSE break in Cuba. But while any Caribbean island would probably have ticked all her boxes – she had just two: beach and sunshine – I thought a dash of history and politics would spice things up for me, and even be a little educational for her. Explore’s Viva Cuba! holiday would give us a taste of this surprisingly large country and, I hoped, provide some congenial companions for Laura. It succeeded at both better than I could have dreamed. By the end of the trip, when the kids (two girls and three boys between 14 and 16) had formed a tight-knit group, gossiping, laughing, sharing iPod earphones, it was hard to remember the day they’d met at Havana

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OUR MAN IN HAVANA

Above: patriotic slogans in the Cuban capital. Opposite, top: a Havana square lit up at night

airport – eyeing each other suspiciously and sticking close to their own families. Laura had never been outside Europe, so everything was new to her: tropical heat, humidity, palm trees, but new to us both was the very different feel of a country where, to quote the writer Henry Shukman, ‘the endless grasping of consumerist capitalism drops away’. How many teenagers have visited a capital city with no billboards, no golden arches, no shopping malls? Reforms instituted by Raul Castro last year now allow Cubans to open small businesses, so visitors today can spy a few low-key shops and cafés. I still wondered how my daughter, as shopaholic as the next London teen, would cope with a retail-therapy detox. But our days were filled with activity: walking Havana’s streets of crumbling mansions, a tour in a 1950s saloon car, salsa lessons on the hotel roof. I don’t think anyone missed Topshop. The differences between the UK and Cuba were more noticeable when we headed west towards

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in focus

caribbean

ATES’ OF HER ‘M E N O H IT GW ORKELLIN LAURA SN

Viñales: here we experienced families living in small, one-storey wooden houses, and fields being worked with machetes and oxen rather than tractors. Viñales is prime tobacco country and on a walk through fields and orchards, we called at a tobacco farm. The kids must have wondered what had come over their responsible parents when we gathered at a shady table outside farmer Francisco’s house and he passed round a cigar he’d just rolled from home-produced leaf. ‘Go on, darling, take a drag,’ I coaxed. Was I mad? Not really – I just wanted her to experience everything the island had to offer. And it wasn’t as if I was thrusting a Marlboro Light on her. Did she like it? Not much, but none of the youngsters was going to admit this. Kids and parents took turns to suck in the fragrant smoke and roll it around our mouths. Drinking was a different matter. Rum flows cheaply and freely in Cuba, and each hotel we stayed at offered a welcome cocktail with or without ‘vitamin R’, with no ID checks for under-18s. The adults soon

LIZ BOULTE

R (RIGHT)

WITH LAURA

developed an enjoyable mojito habit, and we had to keep an eye on the kids’ growing taste for Havana Club mixed with local TuKola. The days all included stuff to keep the teenagers happy as well as interest for the parents, with at least one swimming opportunity each day. We swam in the sea, in rivers and, most memorably, in the Cave of the Fishes, a tectonic crack in the earth that ran 70 metres deep, where we snorkelled in warm, slightly salty water with fish that have found their way in. On the way to one wild swimming spot, we heard excited voices through the trees that turned out to be a group of teenage girls in army fatigues – students from Havana university, doing military service in the holidays. Our teens stared wide-eyed at the giggly band – each had a machine gun slung over her shoulder where our girls would have had a Primark handbag. The gambling took place at a motorway stop-off on the way to the Bay of Pigs – and was mixed with some (very mild) animal abuse. A crowd had gathered at a round table with a dozen or more numbered

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metal houses around its edge and a guinea pig snuffling around the centre. Punters paid a peso and placed a hand on their chosen house. The guinea pig was lifted onto a platform, covered with another little metal house, and spun round violently. The idea is that once the lid is lifted the dizzy rodent dashes into one of the houses, and that punter wins a bottle of rum. Some say the guinea pig has been trained to run to any house that hasn’t got a hand on it. That happened on our go, but no one minded – this is the only place in Cuba where gambling is legal, and the takings support farms devastated by hurricanes. The mood grew more sombre at the Bay of Pigs museum, where our youngsters couldn’t help but notice that the some of the people in the photo gallery of those killed helping foil the CIA-backed invasion were barely older than them. After that, just in case we tourists were getting too fond of bourgeois en suite hotel rooms, we headed inland for probably the most memorable part of the trip: two days’ trekking in the Topes de Collantes mountains, sleeping under the stars in remote haciendas. Arduous hikes down slippery muddy paths and back up lung-stretching steep hills had the grown-ups puffing and sweaty. The fitter and more agile teenagers managed better, though they were equally mudsplattered by the time we arrived at Hacienda Codima. Lots of places claim to offer eco-tourism, but I’ve never stayed anywhere quite so green as these converted farms: accommodation consisted of foam mattresses on the veranda (you could sling your sleeping bag in a small tent) and food is all locally grown. Solar panels provided electricity and sporadic hot water, and meals were cooked on huge wood fires. Breakfast would come courtesy of hens scratching about at our feet, and the citrus orchards all around. Laura and the other youngsters had so far seemed content with the monotonous centralised economy diet of chicken with rice and beans, or pork with rice

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TEENAGE REVOLUTION

Above: Laura in front of a tower block that bears the image of Che Guevara. Opposite, top: tobacco farming in Viñales

and beans – but the adults were ready for something a bit more tasty. We got it next day after another jungle trek, at Hacienda Gallega. The accommodation here was even more basic (cold showers) but the food was astonishing: a fresh tomato soup Nigel Slater would have been proud of, flavoured with wild oregano, and citrus-basted, spit-roasted wild pig. We felt a pang at the thought of the porker’s happy jungle rootling cruelly cut short, but no meat had ever tasted so good. Coming down from the mountains we had a few days in a very different Cuba – a tourist hotel in Playa Ancon, near Trinidad. This was the Caribbean of holiday brochures; a crescent of white sand fringed with palm trees, lapped by a multi-hued turquoise sea. Laura, used to English seaside or the chilly Med, thought she’d died and gone to heaven when we took our first swim in water as warm as a bath. The snorkelling was amazing, too. But, except for the monotonous food in the hotel, it didn’t feel like the lively, rackety, ramshackle island we’d come to love. I, at least, was glad that we were to go home with a taste of iconic Cuba in our mouths. Years before, Laura had asked me who that ‘man with the hat and the star’

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK; TRAVEL PICTURES; ANTHONY & JO WOOD

OLD CHEVROLET ON THE STREETS OF HAVANA

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CUBA: THE LOWDOWN

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HOW TO GET THERE

Explore (0845 291 4541; explore. co.uk) offers a 15-day Viva Cuba! itinerary, from £1,156 per person, including local transport, guide, accommodation and some meals. Virgin Atlantic (0844 209 7777; virgin-atlantic.com) flies from Gatwick to Havana from £445 return.

caribbean

WHERE TO STAY

Stay in a real Cuban home with Casa Particular (casaparticularcuba. org); rooms from £18 a night. Villa las Brujas (cubaism.co.uk) is set on a fantastic beach on the island’s north coast; doubles from £51. Hotel Florida (habaguanexhotels.com) in old Havana is an elegant restored colonial mansion; junior suites from £87.

HORSE-RIDING

TREKKING IN THE

TOPES DE COLLANTE

IN VIÑALES

S MOUNTAINS

was that she’d seen on T-shirts, so I’d told her a bit about Che, Fidel, the revolution. That all came to life with a visit to the city of Santa Clara, site of the last battle in the Cuban revolution, where Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara is venerated. The atmosphere inside his mausoleum was more hushed and reverent than in the Vatican; skimpy clothes – and chatting – were frowned upon as we viewed stones, wood and plants from the forest in Bolivia where Che was executed, and an eternal flame lit by Fidel Castro. The museum next door had photographs of the handsome hero – as a child in Argentina, organising revolutionaries in the jungle – and belongings such as a white coat from his medical student days, an asthma inhaler and, yes, a trademark beret with star badge. Che’s socialist ideals have clearly been tempered in today’s Cuba: there are plenty of tour buses and all-inclusive resorts, and the growth in private enterprise will change things more. But I felt glad to have given my daughter a taste of a different system. ‘It’s nice to know the whole world isn’t affected by consumerism,’ she mused. ‘I know I am, but perhaps if I lived here…’ Laura afterwards declared this trip ‘the best holiday ever’ – which may have had a lot to do with having four cool mates to hang with. And I’m glad to say she came home neither smoker, drinker nor gambler (as far as I know). But if she starts fomenting revolution in sixth-form college, I’ll know why.

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CARIBBEAN ON A BUDGET Taking the family to an island paradise needn’t break the bank. There’s a wealth of affordable places to stay in the Caribbean – Maddie York rounds up six of the best… 68

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GARDEN AT ITAL

REST COTTAGES

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OTTAGES

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caribbean

ITAL REST COTTAGES JAMAICA At only £50 per night out of season, the cottages at Ital Rest are incredibly good value. Each one has two breezy bedrooms with private bathrooms, and terraces overlooking the Santa Cruz mountains and the sea. A kitchen in each cottage means you can cook at home when you like, saving some hassle and a bit more money. And there’s also a lovely Rastafari-style café, serving wholesome vegetarian food – all of which is made from ingredients grown in a garden populated by hummingbirds and butterflies that chill out among hibiscus flowers and fruit trees. Hosts Frankie and Jeanne have created an

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atmosphere that lets modern stresses melt away (note that bedrooms are candlelit, with no electricity), putting the emphasis on relaxing and playing, with table tennis and dominoes available in the garden. Stay here and you’ll be getting a truly laid-back Caribbean experience in one of the loveliest parts of Jamaica, just 100 yards from a quiet swimming cove; close to the fishing village of Great Bay and the beautiful sands and clear waters of Treasure Beach. Ital Rest Cottages (+1 876 421 8909; italrest.com). Cottages from £50 per night (April to November); from £65 per night (December to March).

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WAVES OF PLEASURE

Bathsheba, the surfing hotspot on Barbados’s east coast that plays host to the Sea-U Guesthouse

SEA-U GUESTHOUSE BARBADOS Managed by Uschi, a travel writer, who created it in a traditional Barbadian style, the Sea-U Guesthouse is set in a gorgeous position in Bathsheba, a spot well-known for its excellent surfing. The welcome here is always warm and the living is very easy. There’s a selection of studios and suites, which are all very good-value when you consider how well-equipped and tastefully presented they are. Many feature antiques, and locally crafted furnishings and artwork – and all offer incredible views of tropical gardens and the ocean. Breakfast, served in the lovely gazebo restaurant where you can also dine in the evening, is complimentary at the Sea-U Guesthouse. But there are also kitchens in the rooms, which means it’s perfectly possible to trim your holiday budget by having some meals at home. It’s the perfect base for a classic Caribbean holiday. Sea-U Guesthouse (+1 246 433 9450; seaubarbados.com). Studios from £90 per night in summer; from £120 per night in winter.

ESTHOUSE

BEDROOM AT SEA-U GU

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caribbean EXTERIOR OF TRUE

IN THE PLAY

GROUND AT

TRUE BLUE

BLUE BAY

BAY

TRUE BLUE BAY RESORT & VILLAS GRENADA A converted inn, this well-thought-out resort is ideal for families. There’s plenty to keep children active, including a pool and playgrounds with swings, slides and toys, and complimentary kayaks and Hobie cats. Pick up the free shuttle to Grand Anse beach, where there are lovely waterfront restaurants. Or come back to eat at the resort’s Dodgy Dock, where you’ll be given free drinks. There’s even a babysitting service for parents looking for some quiet time. The friendly concierge team, and owners Russ and Magdalena really make this resort what it is: relaxed yet well-organised. Under-12s stay free and breakfast is included – both of which help bring costs down and make this one of the most affordable places to stay on Grenada. True Blue Bay Resort (+1 473 443 8783; truebluebay.com). Rooms from £110.

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INTO THE BLUE

Snorkelling in the waters off Little Cayman in the Cayman Islands

BLUE HORIZONS GARDEN RESORT GRENADA They understand family holidays at Blue Horizons Garden Resort. Under-16s stay free when sharing with parents, and adjoining kids’ suites can be booked for up to 50 per cent off. Under-12s also eat free from the children’s menu. It’s very good value considering its gorgeous location, amid tropical gardens close to Grand Anse beach. There’s plenty to do, including a children’s playground, a freshwater swimming pool, and the chance to enjoy a bit of birdwatching – there are 21 species of birds living around the resort. Blue Horizons Garden Resort (+1 473 444 4316; grenadabluehorizons.com). Apartments from £99 per night (mid-April to mid-December); from £134 per night (mid-December to mid-April).

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EXTERIOR OF

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PARADISE VILLAS LITTLE CAYMAN There are 12 villas here, just 50 feet from the sea. All come with a kitchenette; but if you do want to eat out, Paradise Villas has its own restaurant, the Hungry Iguana – or the Iggy – named in honour of the iguanas that outnumber residents on Little Cayman. It serves local fish and seafood. All the villas have porches, which are ideal for playing, reading or just watching the sunset. Hire bicycles and ride around the island, or try snorkelling at Bloody Bay, which offers some of the best underwater vistas in the Caribbean. Paradise Villas (+1 345 948 0001; paradise villas.com). Villas from £120 per night (mid-April to mid-December); from £125 per night (mid-December to mid-April).

RIGHT ON THE BEACH AT

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PARADISE VILLAS

PHOTOGRAPHS: CORBIS; GETTY IMAGES; LONELY PLANET

GUAVABERRY SPRING BAY BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS Each house at this relaxed resort on Virgin Gorda has old-world charm and a deck from which you can take in views over the neighbouring islands. And, as all come with kitchens, you can prepare meals here rather than eating out every day. A lovely beach, just a few minutes’ walk away, offers clear, warm and safe water that’s ideal for little swimmers, and some great snorkelling opportunities. The resort has plenty of diving equipment available to rent. All in all, it’s a great base from which to enjoy this peaceful island. Guavaberry Spring Bay (+1 284 495 5227; guavaberryspringbay.com). Houses from £95 per night (mid-April to mid-December); from £160 per night (mid-December to mid-April).

GREAT VIEWS FROM GUAVABER

RY SPRING BAY

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HEY, BIG SPENDERS

The Caribbean is also home to a wide selection of luxury resorts. Here are five family-friendly favourites for those wanting to splash the cash

BEACHES NEGRIL JAMAICA Everything, from meals and drinks to golf and watersports, is included at Beaches Resorts. Kids will love the Sesame Street characters, Xbox lounges, waterparks, kids’ camps, and teen nightclubs. Qualified nannies, a butler service and an excellent spa will keep adults contented. Seven nights from £5,488, including flights, based on a family of four (0800 597 0002; beachesresorts.co.uk).

WATER CHUTE AT BE

ACHES NEGRIL

COCONUT COURT BARBADOS Located within a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this family-run hotel is just 10 minutes from the capital, Bridgetown. Along with its white-sand beach, Coconut Court Beach Hotel offers a swimming pool, spa tub and a children’s pool. The open-air beachfront restaurant serves familyfriendly meals. From £4,096 for a family of four (room only) for seven nights, including flights. (0843 249 5361; tropicalsky. co.uk).

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PARADISE AWAITS AT PARROT CAY

Straddling the fine line between luxury and minimalism, this is a haven of whitewashed walls, terracotta tiles and soft white cottons. The resort is justly famous for its fantastic COMO Shambhala Spa. There are no dedicated kids’ clubs but a huge range of daily excursions are on offer – including trips to the aptly named Iguana Island and a Family Castaway Picnic – as well as babysitting services. Three-night family packages from £1,565 (+1 649 946 7788; parrotcay.com).

caribbean

THE RITZ-CARLTON GRAND CAYMAN Located on one of the longest sandy beaches in the Caribbean, this ultra-glamorous resort is a tropical idyll. Its main coral-and-gold building blends into the landscape, and offers glorious sunrise and sunset views from its top floors. There’s a stunning spa, five restaurants, tennis courts, a golf course, and an enviable range of watersports. Children take part in Ambassadors of the Environment eco-tours, which introduce them to turtles, iguanas, parrots and butterflies. Doubles from £155 (+1 345 943 9000; ritzcarlton.com).

BEACHSIDE AT THE RITZ-CARLTON

WINDJAMMER LANDING ST LUCIA

LARGE ROOMS AT WINDJAMMER LANDING

Set on an idyllic beach in St Lucia’s beautiful Labrelotte Bay, Windjammer Landing is roomy enough for families with teenagers. There are five restaurants and no shortage of activities, including Aqua Finn Sailing, Windsurfing and Banana Rides. The Jacquot Club is free for children aged between four and 12. Seven nights from £1,455 per adult and £649 per child, including flights (020 7666 1214; westernoriental.com).

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BAY OF BEAUTY

Soufrière Bay, on the southwest coast of St Lucia

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St James’s Club, Morgan Bay aims to offer perfection in paradise. SUZANNE DENT found her family well suited to luxury living in St Lucia

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here are two kinds of holiday island it seems: one is the flat, floating pancake with miles of white sand, the other is the small, green mound ringed by lush, hilly coves. If, like me, you prefer the latter, and want mesmerising scenery on your family break, then St Lucia is the island for you. Our girls – Ellie, aged six, and Charlotte, aged three – certainly weren’t interested in long strolls along the shore. All they want from a beach is sand enough to build castles and water that’s suitably gentle for trying out their new snorkelling masks. And Simon, my husband? Well, he had visions of teaching the girls how to sail out in some millpond-flat Caribbean bay. A trip to St James’s Club Morgan Bay, on St Lucia, I’m glad to say, ticked everybody’s boxes.

The resort is famously luxurious, but, as we’d never visited a place such as this before, we weren’t sure what that actually meant. We knew the accommodation would be plush and high-end, but would it be tasteful? I was relieved, then, to arrive in our Ocean View family suite, which was simply lovely. The space had an inviting island feel, and its décor, which was a modern twist on blue-green and palm-tree coloured fabrics with dark furnishings, made us all feel comfortable. We parents even had a room of our own within the suite, with an actual door to separate us from the kids’ comfortable sofa sleeper in the lounge. We weren’t sure how everything worked at first. Would we wait in long lines for a drink? Would we struggle to find a server at the restaurant? Would we have to put towels out

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FUN IN THE SA

at dawn to reserve our loungers? To our surprise, and delight, the answers were no, no and no. St James’s Club Morgan Bay has no shortage of friendly staff members, who are great with children. Considering it is such a large resort, I was impressed to find waitresses that greeted our girls by their first names at breakfast after only a couple of days. And, whether it’s in the restaurants, at the bar or the watersports shack, there is always someone around to provide prompt service. Actually getting a dinner reservation; well, that’s a whole different matter. On arrival, we were told that we would dine at The Palm that night, which is the largest, buffet-only restaurant, set back in the resort’s gardens. The next day, we set about securing a table in one of the other three restaurants, only to be told it would be at least three days before we could dine elsewhere. Once we were able to try them all, we could see why they were so popular. Our favourites were Bambou, which served Caribbean-Asian food overlooking the beach, and the very cool Morgan’s Pier, set out over the water. St James’s Club Morgan Bay intends to add another restaurant later this year. Future guests should find it much easier than we did to secure reservations. Sunloungers were easy to come by, but why was it so hard to get hold of a beach towel? A bizarre bartering system required us to exchange a token for a towel each day and then return the towel later to get the token back. Keeping track of our tokens was hard enough (losing any would incur extra charges at check-out), but the fact we were only allowed two beach towels for a family of four was ridiculous. We found sneaking a couple of towels out of our suite’s bathroom, when the

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attendants weren’t looking, to be OUT G N a much more A H TO PLACE THE PERFECT efficient system. Something Simon and I realised about ourselves over breakfast one morning, was that simply being on holiday made us incredibly lazy. Maybe this was down to all the admin that inevitably precedes this kind of trip – picking the hotel or resort, booking the flights, getting the kids’ stuff packed, sorting out the transfers, etc – but, during the first few days of our stay, we found we couldn’t bring ourselves to do very much at all. Luckily, on any day at St James’s Club Morgan Bay, FANTASY ISLAND there are a huge number of activities and lessons, Opposite: Charlotte especially for itchy-footed children. and Ellie at St James’s The recently renovated kids’ club, situated in a Club Morgan Bay. colourful bungalow, proved the perfect place to drop Above: Warm, safe waters for kids to swim the children off for a couple of hours. On our second afternoon, Ellie announced she wanted to try it out, but three-year-old Charlotte took a little more convincing. But, upon realising Ellie returned from the club not only unharmed, but also with craftwork in hand and strawberry ice-cream around her mouth, she happily trotted off with her big sister the next day. This gave us parents some precious free time; a couple of hours, which Simon and I spent lounging in the adults-only pool and enjoying the special couple’s massage at the spa.

ELLIE AND CHAR

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES

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ST LUCIA: THE LOWDOWN WHERE TO STAY

Virgin Holidays (0844 557 3859; virginholidays.co.uk) offers seven-night, all-inclusive packages at the St James Club Morgan Bay, from £1,325 for a family of four in a one-bedroom suite, including flights and transfers.

There were lots of activities and lessons running throughout the day for adults and kids alike. All you had to do was pick the ones you fancied and show up. After several mornings of playing in the pool with the kids, I escaped after breakfast one day for a Pilates session, followed by a group tennis lesson. Simon, not to be outdone, was overjoyed to find four Hobie catamarans sitting on the beach. Each morning began with him trying to persuade us all to go sailing, and with good reason. St Lucia is an island you’ve got to gaze at from the sea. It is full of tiny private beaches and towering green peaks, and the view from the water is spectacular. If you don’t like sailing, the resort provides plenty of other opportunities to get out into the bay. There are water-skiing lessons, jet skis, paddle boats and – Ellie’s favorite – the banana-boat ride. I expect the resort is paradise for teenagers. I chatted to a fellow resident – a mum from Surrey with 13- and 16-year-old boys – and she told me she’d only caught the briefest glimpses of her older son on their holiday; so busy was he going from one activity to the

next. There is also live music every night from sunset to 11pm, which is particularly fun for older kids. I’d advise parents with younger kids to ask for rooms that aren’t at the centre of the resort – the band can play loud. One day we decided to venture out for dinner. At Rodney Bay, just a 15-minute drive from the resort, you are spoiled for choice. We went to the Landings Beach Club, a beautiful resort with private marina. From the background music to the delicious food presentation, there wasn’t one drop of cheesy Caribbean kitsch. Overall, the St James’s Club Morgan Bay probably works best for families with older children, who can take full advantage of the variety of free watersports, but our three- and six-year-old both cried when we told them they were flying home the next day. Would we go there again? Absolutely. Though, next time, we might bring our own beach towels.

FOR MORE CARIBBEAN HOLIDAY IDEAS, VISIT

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8

of the best

EUROPEAN WINTER SUN ISLANDS There's no need to give up on the sun just because it's autumn. There are still plenty of rays to be caught at the end of a short-haul flight, says Jo Ascherl

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TENERIFE

CANARY ISLANDS, SPAIN Having shaken off its package-holiday associations, Tenerife has gone upmarket in recent years, even venturing into boutique designer hotel territory. It’s one of the more predictable European wintersun destinations, but that’s surely no bad thing. Base yourself in the south and there are great sandy beaches for small people, babysitting services and, most importantly, sunshine. Trips include a Parrot Park (if

you’re into parrots – or dolphins, penguins, sea lions, gorillas and Bengal tigers, for that matter – this is a very good place), a Quad Park (ages six to 12 go free as quad passengers) and a Camel Park. On your doorstep, though, is Aqualand Costa Adeje, with a waterpark and ‘dolphinarium’. Olympic Holidays (020 8492 6868; olympicholidays.com) offers one week in Tenerife from £300pp, including flights.

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MADEIRA PORTUGAL

Madeira, Portuguese in spirit, is full of lush, steep landscapes and incredible footpaths – so you’re in for good hiking adventures if you’re with older kids. For the younger ones, make for the seafront promenade that runs the length of Funchal to Camara de Lobos, or take a short bus ride to neighbouring Machico, to the west of Porto Santo, which has a sandy beach and good swimming. A cable car from Funchal town centre will take you to its Botanical Gardens, but some would say that a wicker basket sleigh is the only way to travel – tobogganing on steep, dry land (with your own driver, natch). Restaurants in Funchal are familyfriendly and playgrounds are plentiful. Madeira generally has very mild winters and lots of sunshine. It’s very twinkly at Christmastime, too. Anatolian Sky (0844 273 2606; anatoliansky.co.uk) offers one week in Madeira for £2,600 for a family of four, including flights and hotel accommodation.

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CRETE GREECE

You won’t be short of things to do in the Cretan capital Heraklion in winter – being one of Greece’s largest cities means its streets are buzzing and bustling all year. This isn't representative, however, of its calm, out-of-season beach life, when the sea is particularly clean and swim-worthy. Amnisos beach is a popular winter hangout, and volleyball is still in play. There are also the excellent archaeological and historical museums, with a couple of

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large El Greco paintings (Crete being his birthplace and initial inspiration). Just a few miles west of Heraklion is Agia Pelagia beach, with its sheltered bay and hilltop views. Southern Crete is in the North African climate zone, so it’s one of the best winter bets in the Greek islands. Simpson Travel (0845 508 8211; simpsontravel.com) offers one week in Crete at the end of October for a family of four for £610 per person, including flights, car hire and a private villa with pool.

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ten of the best / family-friendly beaches

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SICILY ITALY

A small, medieval seaside town near Palermo on Sicily’s northern coast, Cefalu is staggeringly beautiful – but as it heaves under the weight of three times its population during the summer, October or November are the best times to go. The stunning beach, winding streets and mosaic-bedecked Norman Cathedral – in one of Italy’s prettiest squares – are all

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reason enough to go in autumn or winter. And then there’s the big attractions that are great pizza and ice cream. A children’s paradise where the Vespa rules OK. Long Travel (01694 722193; long-travel. co.uk) offers one week in Sicily in November for a family of four for £493 per person, including flights, car hire and a family room in a hotel.

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5

IBIZA

BALEARIC ISLANDS, SPAIN This party island with a beautiful coastline is not all about clubbing until dawn – it’s a brilliant place for families, too; especially out of season when the crowds have halved. Pine forest-clad Portinatx is laid-back, and away from the clubbing community. Buckets and spades are de rigueur at its secluded coves, which are super sandy, with Hawaiian-style waters (hence it being the setting for 1950s movie South Pacific). Older children can

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do the cliff walks for the views from Ibiza’s most northern point, while younger kids can just eat ice cream on tap at every bar. There’s lots of snorkelling, good coastal trails and a waterpark attached to the Marconfort El Greco hotel – which has a small fee for non-guests. Travel Supermarket (0845 345 5708; travel supermarket.com) offers one week in Ibiza in December for a family of four for £980, including flights and accommodation.

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eight of the best / winter-sun islands

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GOZO MALTA

One of the three islands of the Maltese archipelago, just north of the mainland, Gozo is the greenest of the lot. It’s an ideal location for snorkelling and diving (of all levels), but more adventurous children – and indeed adults – can head for the caves in a kayak or abseil down rocks. The island is small, so there's no need for a car – cycle down dusty coastal paths to Dwejra bay, get a fishing boat through the tunnel and you’re out into true blue, clear waters. With an average of 300 days of sunshine a year and mild winters, you're pretty much guaranteed good weather. Original Travel (020 7978 7333; original travel.co.uk) offers one week in Gozo for a family of four from £1,270, including transfers from Malta and a family room at the Hotel Ta' Cenc & Spa. easyJet (easyjet. com) flies from several UK airports to Malta, from around £120 return.

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eight of the best / winter-sun islands

LANZAROTE

CANARY ISLANDS, SPAIN Lanzarote is bold, dramatic, eco-conscious and stunning. It also has a pretty reliable record for winter sun – the best month generally being November. For families, Costa Teguise, to the north of Arrecife, is where it’s at – it has the only water park on the island and is also home to Lanzarote’s only aquarium (sharks – always a good distraction). Windsurfing is a major event, so schools and rental companies are scattered throughout, but head for the beach at Las Cucharas for the best around. In the unlikely event that it does rain, you can hop over to Arrecife and explore its two castles, or see the art at the César Manrique Foundation (a family hit for all ages, right up to adulthood). First Choice (0844 871 1604; firstchoice. co.uk) offers one week in Lanzarote for a family of four for £1,850, including flights, car hire and a villa with pool.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: 4CORNERS; CORBIS; GETTY IMAGES; SHUTTERSTOCK; TRAVEL PICTURES

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KEFALONIA

IONIAN ISLANDS, GREECE While a lot of the Greek islands close down in mid-October, Kefalonia is still going in early November. The summer crowds will have disappeared, the sea will have lost none of its allure and the weather will be mostly warm. The island's sandy beaches such as Myrtos are a sight to behold, even to the most jaded Greece-goers. Poros beach is the most

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family-friendly as it has shallow waters with lots of snorkelling opportunities. Ionian & Aegean Island Holidays (020 8459 0777; ionianislandholidays.com) offers one week in Kefalonia from 26 October for ÂŁ550 per adult; ÂŁ500 per child. Price includes flights, transfers, car hire and a villa with pool.

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CLOSE TO THE EDGE If you live in England, you're never more than two or three hours from the Peak District. RUFUS PURDY introduces his children to the UK's most accessible national park

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he time of year when summer blurs into autumn, and you’re not really sure what season to dress for, is when the Peak District is at its best. To be more exact, it’s at around 7pm in the evening, as the sunlight turns golden and shadows stretch to implausible proportions, when it’s best to be there. I should know. I grew up in Sheffield on the national park’s eastern boundary and, courtesy of parents who loved ‘a good walk’, I spent almost every childhood weekend and most schoolholiday days out on Curbar Edge, the Chatsworth Estate or strolling along the River Derwent. The Peak District is something of a communal garden for Sheffielders – somewhere they can escape the city and surround themselves with clean air and beauty. It’s the same for Mancunians, whose city borders the western edge of the park, and those from the urban centres of the East Midlands, who

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live close to the southern perimeter. It even has the M1 running up one side of it. The Peak District is not known as the UK’s most accessible National Park for nothing. My bond with the Peaks (as they’re known locally) runs deep. The first place I took my girlfriend – now my wife – when she came up north with me was out to Hathersage to experience a bracing walk I knew. And, just before we got married, I held my stag do in Castleton – a weekend that involved 12 perspiring, hungover men scaling Mam Tor, the local mountain, before working their way around the picturesque village’s several pubs. Why do I love the Peaks so much? Well, for me, they were instrumental in defining what beauty is. The sheer greenness of the landscape, from the deciduous overhangs that make tunnels of the roads to the dark thickets of pine that swathe crags and hillsides, is just breathtaking. Then add to that the baize-like fields that greet the yellowing moor-fringes; the villages of sturdy, stone cottages; the plateaus of heather and wind-flattened grasses; and the ruddy, iron-tinged rivers and streams that scribble through the valleys. My two children – Martha, four, and Seth, two – seem to be as impressed as me. ‘Wow,’ says Martha, looking out of her window at the patchwork valley floor stretching out to her left as we drive down the hill into Hathersage. We’re here for a short weekend break, an opportunity for me to introduce my offspring to the backdrop of my youth. Well, that’s what I tell myself. Secretly, I’m seeing it as a great opportunity to pick up some Bakewell puddings from their source. ‘Hey!’ shouts Seth excitedly, noticing the view his sister’s gazing at. ‘It looks like where the Teletubbies live.’ Stunning vistas, though, don’t keep preschoolers interested for long. Luckily, I have a plan. We carry on through Grindleford and Baslow, past ancient inns and fields of grass-knawing sheep, to the Chatsworth Estate – still the ancestral seat of the Dukes of Devonshire – where there’s a children’s farm and adventure playground. And, for an hour or so, we let the kids clamber up wooden climbing frames, hurtle across rope bridges and disappear down large pipes while my wife and I decide what we’d like to do next. She wants to take a look at nearby ‘plague village’ Eyam – macabre setting for

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uk /the peak district PEAK CONDITION

Clockwise from left: Stanage Edge in the eastern Peak District; Chatsworth House; plague cottage, Eyam

Geraldine Brooks’s novel Year of Wonders, and famous for cutting itself off from the rest of the world during the Great Plague of 1665 to prevent the spread of infection. I have mixed feelings about Eyam. It’s a pretty village, certainly, and its history is certainly fascinating, but it will always be the scene of one of my most vivid childhood memories. We were on a school trip to the village when I was 10 and I innocently asked my teacher what happened to the people here. ‘Well, they died,’ she said. ‘How did they die?’ I asked. ‘Their groins swelled up,’ she said flippantly. ‘Then their skin began to decompose and they vomited blood. Then they died – in terrible pain.’ As she walked off to herd some of my classmates off the road, I was left standing in front of a cottage inside which, according to a placard on the wall, nine

In Eyam, my wife doesn't seem to share my unease. 'Look at this,' she shouts. 'Six of them died here!'

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members of the same family had been struck down by the plague. I was only just beginning to get my head around what that actually meant. The pang of horror I experienced that day nags at me now as I stand in front of the same wisteriacovered cottage with my family. But my wife doesn’t seem to share my unease. ‘Come and look at this,’ she shouts excitedly from a garden gate further down the street. ‘Six of them died here!’ ‘What does plague mean?’ Martha asks. I exchange looks with my wife. ‘It’s a bit like when you get a cold,’ I tell her. We need something more wholesome, I think, so we get back in the car and drive for a few minutes to a stone bridge on the A625 between Froggatt and Calver. This is the starting point for my favourite Peak District walk; a gentle amble along the banks of the River Derwent that’s no more than a couple of miles long. Wild garlic grows in the dark earth beneath the oak and ash trees that line the river, and the smell is fresh and deliciously pungent. Tree roots criss-cross the path like capillaries; rushes mingle with long grass that grows up around the last late-summer flowers and clumps of wild rhubarb; and willows drape branches into the gently swirling currents. Ducks career along the river, legs paddling like clockwork toys as they strive for the banks. We stop at the Bridge Inn and have a drink in its

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THE LOWDOWN HOW TO GET THERE

East Midlands Trains (eastmidlandstrains.co.uk) operates trains from London St Pancras to Sheffield, the nearest major city to the Peak District, from around £25 return. You’ll need a car to explore the national park properly, though. To drive there, simply drive along the M1 motorway and come off at junction 29. From there, take the A617 and A619 towards Bakewell.

WHERE TO STAY

The area's best hotel is The Peacock at Rowsley (01629 733518; thepeacockatrowsley.com), just a few miles downriver from Calver. It’s a stylish boutique property with a superb restaurant. Doubles from £160. Peak Cottages (0114 262 0777; peakcottages.com) offers cosy fourperson cottages in the national park for as little as £350 per week.

WHERE TO EAT

riverside beer garden to celebrate reaching the halfway point. But then disaster strikes. A wasp strays too close to Seth’s apple juice and, in my attempt to slap it away, I knock my pint over, so it spills all over me. Over the next few minutes, drawn by my damp, sticky, sweet-smelling clothes, every wasp between Sheffield and Manchester then descends to buzz aggressively around my shoulders. I end up having to sit three tables away from the rest of the family as they finish their drinks. Bakewell, the commercial centre of the Peaks, is a pretty settlement of solid 19th-century gritstone buildings and ancient, bowed cottages dominated by an imposing church steeple. It’s the kind of country town that stagecoaches rumble into in the first few minutes of BBC Victorian costume dramas. By the time we drive over its ancient arched stone bridge, though, it’s getting close to the kids’ teatime. And – as

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ILLUSTRATION: PHIL WRIGGLESWORTH. PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES; CHATSWORTH HOUSE

The Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop (01629 812193; bakewellpuddingshop.co.uk).

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uk /the peak district

any parent of young children will know – that’s the one part of the daily routine that can’t be relaxed while on holiday. ‘Come on,’ I say as I help the children out of the car. ‘Let’s go and get some puddings.’ Note ‘puddings’; not ‘tarts’. In this town, the Bakewell tart is seen as an aberration – a weasly imposter of the real thing. The Bakewell pudding was born in the 18th century when a cook at a local inn misheard some recipe instructions and created a strangely delicious lump of batter, almonds and strawberry jam. I take the kids into The Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop – one of three in the town that claim to be the ‘original’ pudding-purveyor – and let them gaze at puddings of all sizes and a selection of

HOW GREEN WAS MY VALLEY

Clockwise from above: the village of Castleton; grounds of Chatsworth House; Bakewell puddings

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other more colourful cakes. ‘Daddy,’ says Martha. ‘Can I have an éclair?’ ‘No,’ I say abruptly, turning to the lady behind the counter. ‘Three Bakewell puddings please.’ ‘But I don’t like Bakewell pudding.’ ‘Yes you do.’ We drive back through the rolling grounds of the Chatsworth Estate, Martha happier with her upcoming dessert after being allowed to nibble a corner. And I realise we’re passing through at the perfect time. It’s just after 7pm, the evening sunlight is low and the hazy-gold colour of farmhouse cider, and the shadows from the sheep stretch all the way down to the river that flows across the front of Chatsworth House. It’s the best time to find yourself in the Peak District. Told you so.

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the foodie

TOM PARKER BOWLES Stews, casseroles, daubes – whatever you want to call them – are the ultimate solid and satisfying autumnal dish. Your children will soon learn to love them…

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h, stew, winsome warmer of the winter months. Supplier of succour, and high priest of the comfort food church, it’s one-pot perfection, a beautifully simple dish that takes tough cuts of meat and breaks them down, slowly, so slowly, until the flesh can be cut with a spoon. Liquids concentrate, flavours intensify and you’re left with the very essence of edible delight. When nights are long and gloom incessant, there are few things that warm both belly and soul. It can be slurped with a spoon, and mixed into great mounds of buttery mashed potato. I can’t get enough. But it wasn’t always thus. As children, my sister and I hated the stuff. Even the word depressed us. It had little to do with the quality of the cooking, rather the big lumps of soft carrot and the lack of visual appeal. We thought it just plain dull. I went on, though, to fall in love with the stew, casserole, daube or whatever else you want to call it. Sure, there might be tiny, pedantic differences between the various terms, but, really, all use the same technique – slow cooking

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BIG, BEEFY STEW 40g unsalted butter Olive oil 350g chuck steak, cubed 5 rashers streaky bacon, chopped 3 small onions, chopped 6 medium carrots, chopped 1 tin chopped tomatoes 250g button mushrooms, sliced Large handful of spinach A couple of sprigs of thyme 400 ml veg or chicken stock In a cast-iron casserole, mix the butter with the a big glug of the olive oil, and brown the meat in batches over a highish heat. Set aside. Fry the bacon until crisp and set aside. Soften the onions for about five minutes, then add the carrots, tomatoes and mushrooms, and cook for five minutes more. Add spinach, cook for one minute then add thyme and stock. Bring to the boil, then put it in the oven, covered, at 140˚C for three hours. Makes 10 portions

family traveller.com

at a low heat. When our children were tiny, I used to make vast pots of beef and sweet potato stew, hiding endless carrots and peas within. And they loved it. Now, they’re older. And rather more picky. One will inhale his plate of beef and mushroom stew in seconds, while the other will push it away with a sneer, claiming that the fungi ‘scares her.’ The joy of stew, though, lies in its completeness. It’s all in there, a proper lunch, where ballast and tucker meet. I like to brown my meat first (using a tough cut such as shin or chuck), so you get an extra layer of flavour. Choice of liquid is important, too. Beer is great with beef, but probably not the ideal choice for children (although the alcohol does cook off). Passata or tinned tomatoes are wonderful with any meat, and smoked bacon always adds charm. I try to chop the carrots quite finely, to avoid the usual fuss created when kids are faced with great chunks of the thing. And if you can leave the stew to sit overnight, then so much the better. Slow-cooked dishes always taste better after a little rest. So there it is – stew. One word. One magnificent children’s lunch. To read more of Tom Parker Bowles’s columns, visit familytraveller.com

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Family cruise special Our essential guide on how to make your seafaring break a soaring success

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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Family cruise special Our essential guide on how to make your seafaring break a soaring success

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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Climb aboard for National Cruise Week With huge recent investment in the cruise industry, there’s never been a better time to book your maiden voyage, says CLIA director Andy Harmer

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ith 2013 National Cruise Week (21–29 September) just around the corner, there couldn’t be a more appropriate time to consider a cruise holiday for the first time. Six new cruise ships have launched in the last six months alone, many more are under construction and cruise-line owners continue to invest billions in providing the very best experience afloat. The number of cruises available today has never been greater, and there is a huge range of ships, destinations and experiences that are ideal for families. Many ships have dedicated pools and waterparks, plus round-the-clock programmes for children run by qualified staff, offering everything from face-painting and talent shows to dens kitted out with the latest computer games and interactive workshops. Both parents and children can enjoy amenities such as bowling alleys, surf parks, ice-skating rinks and rock climbing walls – and, once ashore, there are many tours designed with families in mind. Relaxed dining on many ships means families can eat when they like. And if parents or grandparents want an evening out, then babysitting services are available. But how do you begin choosing a cruise holiday? If you’re stepping aboard for the first time, a good place to start is the Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) – the world’s largest cruise body. It oversees oceangoing ships

that can accommodate as little as 50 and as many as 6,000 passengers, and river vessels that plough the waterways of Europe, America, Africa, Asia, Russia and China. Its website – discovercruises.co.uk – includes a complete, user-friendly cruise guide, and includes information on a huge range of destinations, holiday styles and types of ship – as well as what each vessel offers onboard and onshore. Not only can visitors to the site check out the latest posts from the extensive number of CLIA bloggers, who bring a different perspective to the cruise experience, but they can also find their nearest CLIA-accredited, specially trained cruise travel agent, who will help find the right cruise holiday for them and their family. During National Cruise Week, many cruise lines will be unveiling special added-value offers, and it’s well worth keeping an eye on the CLIA site. So, regardless of whether you’re a family that’s used to taking cruise holidays or you’re thinking of boarding a ship for the first time, there’s never been a better moment to book with one of the world’s leading cruise lines. I hope you and your family will be stepping aboard in the near future. With best wishes, Andy Harmer Director, CLIA UK & Ireland

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Carry on cruising The number of cruise passengers is set to increase again this year. Phil Davies investigates why so many people are stepping onboard for the first time

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LAGOON SHOW

Main picture: a liner arrives into Venice, Italy

So who are these new cruisers? According to research by travel agents in the US, it is multigenerational travellers – grandparents, parents and their children – and those seeking a different kind of wedding or honeymoon who are flocking to the ports. The knock-on benefit of this increase in passenger numbers is that we can expect more ports of call – and more places in which to join cruises in the growth area of the Far East, where extra ships will be deployed over the next few years. Lines are also adding itineraries to exotic locations such as Morocco, Antarctica, Iceland and the Galapagos Islands. River cruising continues to grow in popularity, and an increasing number of companies are ensuring that activities for children are laid on during the school

PHOTOGRAPH: DA ROS LUCA/SIME

WHO’S SET TO CRUISE?

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES

ave you ever wondered how many people around the world climb aboard a cruise ship every year? A few million, maybe? Well, the official forecasted figure for this year is a mind-boggling 20.9 million – and even more are expected in 2014. North Americans make up by far the lion’s share of cruise passengers, though the UK remains the second-largest source country for cruise holidaymakers. Boosted by the introduction of new and refurbished ships, this market is expected to increase by more than two per cent to 1.76 million in 2013. Newsworthy upgrades include Carnival Cruise Lines’s Carnival Destiny, which re-emerged in the summer after a £100 million transformation under the new name of Carnival Sunshine and P&O Cruises’s family-friendly superliner Ventura, which was refurbished in a similar style to sister ship Azura, and now comes

complete with a Glass House wine bar, an adults-only chill-out zone and 18 cabins for single passengers. Other lines plan to introduce 18 new vessels over the next 18 months – a combined investment of $8 billion. These include Norwegian Cruise Line’s New York City-themed Norwegian Breakaway and Princess Cruises’s largest ship, Royal Princess, both of which entered service ahead of this summer’s peak holiday period. Keep an eye out, too, for perhaps the most eagerly awaited launch of 2014 – Royal Caribbean International’s Quantum of the Seas, which is due to enter service next November. The ultimate floating pleasure palace, it will set sail with bumper cars, an observation pod swinging 200ft above the ocean surface and its own sky-diving simulator.

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summer holidays. And more ocean and river cruise lines are providing pre- and post-cruise tours and land-based itineraries that tie in with holidays afloat. This makes it easy to book a beach hotel on the Med or visit a Florida theme park alongside a cruise. Ships are also longer in port, which means that passengers can really get under the skin of the destinations they are visiting.

FAMILY FACILITIES

As cruise companies are operating in a highly competitive environment, they are always looking to outdo each other with the facilities on offer. Cabins, entertainment, children’s activities and dining options are constantly being revamped as lines seek to ensure their ships are more than a match for each other – and rival land-based resorts. Despite all this significant investment, potential passengers can expect to be wooed with some extremely competitive pricing. The cruise companies, after all, can’t afford for their ships to be leaving port at anything under full capacity.

MAD FOR THE MED

The Mediterranean is the sea to be seen on next summer as an expanded range of fly-cruises is to become available in the region. One of the highlights will be the first

ALL ABOARD

Below, from top: hot dog stall aboard a Canival Cruise Lines ship; face-painting on a Norwegian Cruise Line voyage

European appearance of Royal Caribbean International’s Oasis of the Seas – the world’s largest cruise ship. The 6,400-passenger vessel will run a short series of Mediterranean cruises in autumn 2014. Disney Cruise Line is returning to the Mediterranean next summer with its refurbished Disney Magic, and will be offering a range of fourto 12-night cruises from Barcelona and Venice. Disney, of course, wouldn’t be Disney without the appearance of characters from its movies, and Disney Magic will see superheroes celebrated at the new Marvel Avengers Academy while Toy Story characters will be in situ in Andy’s Room. P&O Cruises’s revamped superliner Ventura will be based in the Mediterranean from next summer, taking passengers from Malaga, Spain, and Venice and Savona in Italy. Between March and October, the ship will be running sevenand 14-night itineraries around the Greek Islands, Croatia’s Dalmatian coast, the French Riviera and some of Italy’s most iconic cities. The line will be also be relaxing its on-board dress code and reducing the number of formal evenings to create a more casual ambience. Spanish line Pullmantur is making dramatic changes in order to attract more British families in 2014. The company, which is sold by Major Travel (020 7393 1034; majorcruise.co.uk) in the UK has always allowed under-17s sharing a cabin with their parents to cruise free of charge, paying only port taxes of around £169 for a seven-night Mediterranean cruise. And now the offer is being extended to single parents, so one or two children travelling with an adult will be able to benefit.

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Celebrity culture

With Celebrity Cruises, the journey is every bit as fabulous as the destination

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setting is unequivocally elegant. Prepare to spoil your senses with award-winning cuisine from up to 12 restaurants; bespoke, contemporary accommodation; luxurious spa treatments; and an unrivalled range of family activities, including exciting live shows. All of which are delivered by a fleet of polished and personable staff.

lending an innovative approach to cruising with a well of travel experience, the Celebrity Cruises brand stands out at sea. And it’s this intelligent ‘in-the-know’ ethos that’s made Celebrity Cruises an award-winner – honoured with 15 Cruise Critic awards and crowned Best Premium Cruise Company at the Globe Awards 2013.

Celebrated by the cruise industry and loved by passengers, a Celebrity Cruises’s voyage is ideal for both seasoned seagoers and those who’ve never been on a cruise before. Why? Because no one delivers the world more beautifully.

DISCOVER THE WORLD

With Celebrity Cruises, it’s as much about what’s on land as on the sea. Shore excursions take in everything from Arctic glaciers and pristine Australian beaches to Asian bazaars brimming with exotic treasures and peaceful mountain trails in North America. Celebrity Cruises wants to help you and your family discover these fabulous destinations. Curated by travel experts, the ever-expanding range of Celebrity Cruises itineraries is designed to bring passengers up close to Mother Nature’s best work and face-to-face with iconic historical landmarks. With port stops in every continent, Celebrity Cruises works hard to make the world a more accessible place for you.

THE CELEBRITY EXPERIENCE

But it’s not just shore excursions that make a Celebrity Cruises voyage memorable; the onboard

YOUR FIRST CRUISE?

These summer cruises are ideal options for first-time cruisers in 2014 Celebrity Eclipse Sails 2 August 2014 14-night Mediterranean Cruise Balcony family cabin (for two adults and two children aged three to 11), from £6,999. Celebrity Equinox Sails 26 July 2014 Seven-night Spanish Interlude Cruise Balcony family cabin (for two adults and two children aged three to 11), from £5,499.

Watch the video of all the fun on board. Visit familytraveller/celebritycruises

OUR CHOICE

From the astonishing spread of itineraries offered by Celebrity Cruises, a voyage on Celebrity Eclipse is our cruise of choice. Conveniently departing from Southampton, this contemporary ship sails to destinations that are ideal for families. Whether you’re longing to explore northern reaches with an adventure to Iceland and the glassy fjords of Scandinavia, or you’d prefer a sun-filled trip to sample the island delights of the Mediterranean, Canaries or Azores, Celebrity Eclipse is a wonderful option. To sample Celebrity Cruises modern luxury experience and make your perfect holiday a reality, just visit celebritycruises.co.uk/FT, call 0844 481 7681 or contact your travel agent.

PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK

NEW TO CRUISING?

FAMILY FRIENDLY CRUISES

Celebrity Cruises’s aim is to fashion a holiday that will make all ages feel valued. Under-threes can bounce around at Toddler Time while older children (three to 11) expend their energy at the Fun Factory. As its name suggests, this is a hub for sport, music, crafts, movies, karaoke and parties; designed to get children smiling from 9am-10pm. And, if your little ones don’t fancy going back to their stateroom, there’s an option to stay over at the Fun Factory slumber party. Young adults will love being able to socialise at the X-Club. This supervised, teen-only hangout has everything they could possibly want; it’s packed with games consoles, and throws seriously cool late-night parties.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: SHUTTERSTOCK

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Our cruise with Barbie

Travel writer Tracey Davies recalls a memorable trip with Royal Caribbean International

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y 11-year-old son Angus took some persuading when I first asked him to accompany me on Royal Caribbean International’s Barbie Premium Experience cruise out of Ford Lauderdale, Florida. Eventually he relented. ‘You won’t tell my friends, though, will you?’ he asked. The two of us had never been on a cruise before, and we had no idea what to expect – though I was sure the colour pink would feature heavily. It did. But though Angus bowed out of a Tiara and Teacups party because it was ‘too girlie’, he did enjoy a cupcake-decorating class. It’s not all about Barbie though – despite the branding, doll-themed events only make up a small part of the voyage. And Angus and I really loved what he termed the ‘other stuff’. Facilities were great: four pools, a kids’ waterpark, two surf simulators, a mini-golf course and even a zip wire. And the

Adventure Ocean is a fantastic kids’ zone with toys, games, and as many activities as even the most energetic pre-teen can handle. The ship called in at three ports during our seven days at sea. Labadee, a beach resort in Haiti, was where we took our first swim in the Caribbean. Then we had a full day ashore in Jamaica and another beach day in Cozumel, Mexico. Angus has never had so much fun. And me? Well, there was always the cocktail bar. Seven-night cruises from £1,378 for adults; £1,152 for kids, including flights (based on four sharing an inside stateroom on a 1 December departure from Fort Lauderdale on Allure of the Seas). The Barbie Premium Experience, £249 per child (aged up to 11), is available on all Royal Caribbean International Cruises of five nights or more. To book, contact Royal Caribbean International (0844 493 2061; royalcaribbean.co.uk).

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

Carnival time Children and adults alike will adore sailing with Carnival Cruise Lines’s fun-packed fleet

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he clue is in the name: the word carnival means a special occasion – and family cruise specialist Carnival Cruise Lines is renowned for delighting families during their time at sea.

ALL TOGETHER NOW

The whole family can get wet and wild shooting down waterslides, or parents can unwind at a Cloud 9 Spa, safe in the knowledge that the kids are occupied at one of the Camp Carnival children’s clubs. As for accommodation, Carnival offers a range of family-friendly options with multiple occupancy cabins for more than two guests, while many of the ships in the fleet have staterooms, which will accommodate as many as five guests.

A CARNIVAL OF DESTINATIONS

MAKING MEMORIES

From top: Camp Carnival children’s club; Caribbean destinations; relaxing with a movie

With numerous fantastic itineraries around the whole globe, deciding where to sail with Carnival may not be the easiest decision, but the operator’s Caribbean options are especially enticing. You could choose a western-based itinerary to visit Cozumel, Mexico’s only Caribbean island; moving on to beautiful Belize, with its own special brand of eco-tourism and the world’s second-largest barrier reef; then the new Mahogany Bay resort on scenic Isla Roatan and, finally, Costa Maya, gateway to ancient Mayan temples and white-sand beaches. Or maybe the eastern Caribbean appeals? Think idyllic islands with white-sand beaches, palm trees and turquoise waters. Visit Nassau

in the beautiful Bahamas, St Thomas and St Maarten in the US Virgin Islands, both of which offer picture-postcard scenery, warm Caribbean hospitality and duty-free shopping galore.

WHICH CRUISE TO CHOOSE?

Carnival’s fleet of 24 ships has some wonderfully well-equipped vessels. Carnival Dream is a unique experience, featuring two dual-level dining rooms, a gourmet steakhouse and the Lido Restaurant. It also boasts Ocean Plaza, which combines tasty treats with entertainment. There are entertainment options aplenty, and no shortage of aquatic action – from the waterslide thrills at WaterWorks to the soul-soothing Thalassotherapy pool at the Cloud 9 Spa. Taking in the hottest spots in the Caribbean and the Bahamas, one of the newest ships in the company’s fleet is Carnival Breeze, which provides unrivalled levels of entertainment and culinary satisfaction, including signature burgers from acclaimed chef Guy Fieri. The whole family can ride the 320ft-long Twister Waterslide and take the aerial challenge of the innovative SkyCourse rope walk – the highlight of the SportSquare fitness feature. For more active fun after sundown, the multi-dimensional Thrill Theater has a truly moving experience, whilst the Liquid Nightclub offers traditional dancefloor delights. Carnival Sunshine is a floating Mecca for fun-seekers. Its facilities include WaterWorks, an onboard waterpark, with new slides such as the slick Speedway Splash. Dining options include Guy’s Burger Joint, BlueIguana Cantina, Fahrenheit 555 Steakhouse and new venue JiJi Asian Kitchen.

To find out more about Carnival Cruise Lines’s Caribbean itinerary and other voyages, call 0845 351 0556, visit carnival.co.uk or facebook.com/carnivalcruiseuk

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Trip the light fantastic Seeing the Northern Lights from a cruise ship is a very special experience, says Phil Davies

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or families with an adventurous spirit, a cruise that incorporates dogsledding, snowmobiling and sightings of one of the world’s most spectacular natural phenomena has to be high on this winter’s must-do list. And hunting the Aurora Borealis – or Northern Lights – from the waters above the Arctic Circle will be an even more remarkable experience in late 2013 and early 2014, as auroral activity will be at its 11-year peak – a highlight known to astronomers as the Solar Maximum.

WHY TAKE TO THE WATER?

One of the most exhilarating ways to experience this beautiful dance of natural light is by cruise ship. Sailing away from the light pollution often found on land provides one of the best chances to experience this magical colour show. And, having operated voyages up and down the coast of Norway for 120 years, Norwegian line Hurtigruten is the undisputed expert. Don’t expect formal nights, glitzy entertainment or extensive children’s clubs aboard Hurtigruten’s ships – these are working vessels providing essential links to communities in some of the remotest parts of Europe – but its fleet of 11 operates daily sailings up and down the Norwegian coast, irrespective of what can be harsh weather conditions.

YOUR BEST CHANCE OF SIGHTINGS

With NASA’s recent announcement of a double-peak Solar Maximum in late 2013, the forthcoming winter season is likely to offer spellbinding – and more frequent – Northern Lights displays across the skies of the polar regions. The aurora season runs from late September or early October to late March. The lights can be seen at any time during this period – but late October, November, February and March are the most likely times for passengers to catch a sighting of this awe-inspiring display.

SNOW SCENE

From top: the Northern Lights over a Sámi lavvo; sledging with huskies

MORE THAN JUST A LIGHT SHOW

Ships travel along this magnificent stretch of coastline from Bergen to Kirkenes (just a few miles from the Russian border), and call at 34 ports along

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the way – most of which are never visited by the other major cruise lines. And it’s not just the Northern Lights that will appeal to families. Shore excursions range from wilderness adventures and snowmobiling trips to Viking feasts and stays in the Kirkenes Snow Hotel – built from scratch every year from snow and ice. All its 40-plus rooms have snow decorations on the walls and ice sculptures displayed throughout. The hotel, of course, also boasts Northern Lights ‘wake up calls’.

ADVENTURES ON LAND AND SEA

The town of Kirkenes, which is home to several fascinating small museums that recount the history and heritage of this remote frontier post, is an ideal base for many land-based excursions, including sledging with huskies and fishing for king crabs on a snowmobile safari. This trip begins with a drive to the island of Kvaløya, where the huskies take over to

pull sledges over a frozen landscape, providing passengers with stunning views of the ocean, mountains and open plateaus. Afterwards, they are invited to warm up with a hot drink around an open fire in a Sámi lavvo (tent). British astronomers accompany passengers on an 11-night voyage from Bergen to Kirkenes and back, giving lectures and leading guided excursions designed to maximise the Northern Lights experience. Departures are available to book from September 2013 till November 2014. Hurtigruten (0844 448 7601; hurtigruten.co.uk) offers 11-night voyages from £1,825 per adult and from £1,294.50 per child, including return flights from London and full-board accommodation in a cabin (based on a 20 November 2014 departure). It also offers a five-day Arctic Highlights voyage from £999 per adult and from £744 per child, including return flights from Gatwick or Manchester, half-board accommodation and a one-night hotel stay in Tromso. The dog-sledding excursion costs £199 per person.

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Fun for all the family Cruise ships are now so well-equipped with kids’ facilities, they are like giant, floating playcentres. Phil Davies rounds up what each line has to offer

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Kids’ happiness is taken seriously by Cunard: children get their own pool and deck area on flagship Queen Mary 2, while on Queen Victoria and Queen Elizabeth, one pool is given over entirely to families. A night nursery for children aged 12 to 23 months is open from 6pm to 11pm. The Play Zone and The Zone are complimentary supervised areas, which offer activities throughout the day (and into the night) for two- to seven-year-olds and eight- to 12-year-olds respectively. The Teen Zone, for those aged 13 to 17, offers table-tennis tournaments, team games and deck sports throughout the day; and pizza parties, discos, quizzes and bingo at night. 0843 374 2222; cunard.com

HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

amilies looking for fun, convenience and value need look no further than a cruise. Children are well catered for, and parents can enjoy luxurious spas, time in the bar and movies beneath the stars knowing their children are being looked after in supervised kids’ clubs. And, as meals, entertainment and most onboard activities are included in the price of your ticket, costs can be kept right down.

All activities at the Club HAL kids’ clubs are supervised by full-time, qualified Youth Staff. Those aged three to seven can participate in treasure hunts, pizza-making, crafts and parties. Eight- to 12-year-olds take part in Xbox and Wii tournaments, karaoke disco parties and – on Alaska cruises – a junior ranger programme run by the US National Park Service. The Loft and The Oasis are spaces in which teenagers can enjoy mocktail mixology classes, cooking demos and teen-only nightclub events. When the ships are at sea, babysitting services are available for children aged three and over. 0843 374 2300; hollandamerica.com

CELEBRITY CRUISES

The line offers private babysitting in cabins for children aged 12 months and older for $19 an hour. And those with older children (aged three to 11) can take them along to nighttime slumber parties. Under-threes take part in Toddler Time; and three children’s clubs take place in the Fun Factory: Shipmates is for three- to five-yearolds; Cadets for those aged six to eight; and Ensigns for nine- to 11-year-olds. Activities include games, sports, crafts, music, karaoke, treasure hunts, theme parties and movies. Teen entertainment is provided in the X-Club hangout zone. 0844 493 2043; celebritycruises.co.uk

Under-18s sail for free with MSC Cruises when sharing with two full fare-paying adults. And that’s not the only good news for families. The company’s largest Fantasia-class ships have multiple pools, waterslides, a 4D cinema and a Grand Prix simulator. Four kids’ clubs are available: the Mini Club for three- to six-year-olds; the Junior Club for those aged seven to 11; the Y-Team for 12- to 14-year-olds; and the MSC Generation teen club for 15- to 17-year-olds. Babies and toddlers aged 10 to 36 months are catered for at MSC Babytime. A Kids Around the Clock service is also available from 11pm to 2am. 0844 561 1955; msccruises.co.uk LIFE ON THE OCEAN WAVES

From top: onboard entertainment; Norwegian Breakaway; characters aboard an MSC Cruises voyage

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

A range of kids’ and teen clubs are available on Norwegian Cruise Line ships, and these are broken

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES

MSC CRUISES

CRYSTAL CRUISES

Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity offer spacious staterooms in a range of categories, as well as suites and connecting cabins, child-friendly cuisine, and dedicated activities for children aged three to 17 on selected sailings. Both vessels offer in-stateroom babysitting. The Trident Grill & Ice Cream Bar serves complimentary hot dogs, hamburgers, pizza and sandwiches. Baby food, high chairs and booster seats are available on request. 020 7399 7601; crystalcruises.co.uk

CUNARD

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down into age groups so that children can make friends with children their own age. The Splash Academy includes Guppies (six months to two years), Turtles (three to five), Seals (six to nine) and Dolphins (10 to 12). Teen lounges in the Entourage area cater for two distinct age groups – 13- to 14-year-olds and those aged 15 to 17. Entourage boasts facilities for air hockey, pinball and table football, as well as a video jukebox and large flatscreen televisions, several of which are located around a central video-game console. In the evening, Entourage transforms into a nightclub. In addition to these complimentary kids’ clubs, group babysitting programmes (for ages three to 12) are available. The line’s partnership with Nickelodeon also means there’s plenty of brand-name entertainment on offer. 0845 201 8900; ncl.co.uk

P&O CRUISES

P&O Cruises’s superliners Azura and Ventura, and mid-sized vessels Aurora and Oceana, provide free onboard programmes for younger cruisers. All organised activities centre around The Reef, supervised by qualified Reef Rangers. Splashers caters for two- to four-year-olds, Surfers is for those aged five to eight, Scubas is for nine- to 12-year-olds and H20 for over-13s. Clubs are open in the day; then, between 10.30pm and midnight, a supervised night nursery is available for under-twos and a quiet slumber time session for five- to eight-year-olds. 0843 374 0111; pocruises.co.uk

PRINCESS CRUISES

All but two of Princess Cruises’s ships provide facilities for families, and offer a range of clubs for those aged between three and 17. Princess Pelicans (for three- to seven-year-olds) and Shockwaves (for those aged eight to 12) organise activities that include everything from T-shirt painting to scavenger hunts. And, in Remix, Wii games, movies and music, as well as sports competitions and parties, are provided for 13- to 17-year-olds. All family-friendly ships in the fleet run a Junior Chefs at Sea programme together with pyjama and ice cream parties, educational workshops and a special funfair. 0845 075 0031; princesscruises.co.uk

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All the world’s a stage

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hose with a desire to expand their cultural horizons as well as their geographical ones will find themselves right at home on a cruise ship. Many lines offer itineraries with an experiental and educational bias across the globe. Barcelona is a favourite starting point for fly-cruises, and most lines offer the chance to add on hotel stays either pre- or post-cruise. It’s well worth extending your break by a night or two. Spain’s second city is home to Gaudí’s extraordinary Sagrada Familia, the Museum of Contemporary Art and the 98,000-seat Camp Nou, home of the trophy-laden Barcelona FC. The San Siro stadium in Milan (home to both AC Milan and Inter) is another mustsee for football fans and can be combined with a shopping spree to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a viewing of Da Vinci’s Last Supper and a night at the opera at La Scala. Norwegian Cruise Line runs two- to eight-day pre-cruises in Italy, which – as well as Milan – take in cultural highlights such as Rome, Florence, Pisa and Venice.

CULTURE CLUB

Main picture: the Arch of Constantine and the Colosseum in Rome, Italy. Above, from top: en route to a new destination; the Bay of Naples, Italy

Remaining in Italy, MSC Cruises is one of the many companies to offer excursions from Naples to Pompeii. Its guided archaeological walking tour (from £45 per adult; from £32 per child) allows passengers to gain an insight into how the Ancient Romans lived. The cities of the Baltic have become increasingly popular – and many lines now include a stay in St Petersburg to give passengers time to take in the Hermitage Museum, the Yusupov Palace and Catherine the Great’s Palace. A 14-night sailing on P&O Cruises’ child-friendly vessel Aurora next July covers this Russian gem as well as Stockholm, Copenhagen and medieval Tallinn. Holland America Line is latching onto the growing desire for in-depth excursions by creating an On Location initiative to provide passengers with information about customs, the way of life, off-the-beaten-track locations and insight from locals at several of its port stops. Celebrity Cruises takes Alaska excursions to new heights with a helicopter tour of the vast Mendenhall Glacier from the town of Juneau. A 30-minute flight over rainforests, alpine ridges and mountain peaks is followed by a trek on the icy surface led by a knowledgeable glacier guide. Celebrity Cruises (0845 456 0523; celebritycruises.co.uk); Holland America Line (0843 374 2300; hollandamerica.com); MSC Cruises (0844 561 1955; msccruises.co.uk); Norwegian Cruise Line (0845 201 8900; ncl.co.uk); P&O Cruises (0843 373 0111; pocruises.co.uk).

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES; SIMEONE GIOVANNI/4 CORNERS

A cruise is the perfect excuse to see the globe’s finest cultural sights, says Phil Davies

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New US fly-cruises mean you can mix time at sea with days in big US theme parks, says Phil Davies

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s a huge fan of US theme parks, I was excited to see the new range of Florida cruise-andstay options available from this autumn. Combining a cruise with a visit to either Walt Disney World, Universal or one of Orlando’s many jaw-dropping attractions continues to be one of my big ambitions. And the pester power currently being exercised by my son and daughter – aged eight and 11 – means a trip of this nature is almost inevitable. The Davies family did go on a whistlestop tour of Walt Disney World as part of a Disney Cruise Line sailing last summer, but I’d be taking the Mickey if I told you that we did any more than scratch the surface. Disney Cruise Line provides the full experience by operating sailings to Costa Maya, Cozumel, Nassau, St Maarten and the company’s private island, Castaway Cay, for swimming and sunbathing. Its Walt Disney World Resort is home to four theme parks, two water parks and more than 20 themed resort hotels, which provide a convenient base for the many attractions on offer. Stand in the shadow of Cinderella Castle in Magic Kingdom theme park and blast off to Mars at Mission: SPACE at Epcot theme park. Take an African safari in Disney’s Animal Kingdom before a fireworks extravaganza at Disney’s Hollywood Studios.

ANIMATED EXPRESSION

From top: Mickey Mouse on a Disney Cruise Line voyage; Dreamworks’s Puss in Boots; a family enjoying a Florida fly-cruise

Carnival Cruise Lines (0843 374 2271; carnival.co.uk); Disney Cruise Line (0800 169 0752; disneycruise.co.uk); Norwegian Cruise Line (0845 201 8900; ncl.co.uk); Royal Caribbean International (0844 493 4005; royalcaribbean.co.uk).

PHOTOGRAPHS: HUBER JOHANNA/SIME

Sail to the stars

Norwegian Cruise Line’s new mega ship Norwegian Breakaway sails from New York to the Bahamas and Port Canaveral for day-long excursions to Disney and Universal Studios. Families can also take tours to attractions such as the Kennedy Space Centre and Seaworld, as well as excursions to the famous Cocoa Beach for shopping or a pontoon cruise on the Banana River. Carnival Cruise Lines runs a series of three-, four- or five-day cruises from Port Canaveral to The Bahamas. Longer sailings include a day at Half Moon Cay, where passengers can enjoy glass-bottom boat trips, swimming with stingrays and horseback riding along the beach. Royal Caribbean International offers packages that include hotel and shipboard accommodation, as well as multi-day passes to Universal Studios Florida and Universal’s Islands of Adventure. What my kids love about this idea is that the theme-park experience doesn’t end when you get back on board ship. In fact, it’s more like attending a theme park that stops off at beautiful destinations. DreamWorks characters sail with you on a series of new Royal Caribbean cruises. And activities include character breakfasts, parades and themed shows. A newly installed oversized video screen overlooking the main pool deck shows the latest DreamWorks movies. Speaking as the father of two cruise-loving youngsters begging to be taken on a theme park-packed holiday, this latest set of Florida fly-cruise opportunities look to be a no-brainer.

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

A Royal voyage Royal Caribbean International has long been dedicated to family holidays and now its ships have more entertainment than ever

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f your perfect sea voyage includes thrilling onboard experiences, excursions that provide a true flavour of each destination and an idyllic setting guaranteed to create a host of vivid family memories, then you simply must take a cruise with Royal Caribbean International.

LIFE ON THE OCEAN

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Your family will enjoy a world of fun Kids can get a taste of life aboard a Royal Caribbean aboard a Royal Caribbean ship. International ship with new Imagine the children zooming on A family of four can enjoy a iPad game Penguin Ahoy member the ice rink, scaling the rockwall or seven-night Royal Caribbean – download it now for can instantly squirting each other with the International cruise, sailing from the free from iTunes. choose their onboard water cannons. And, if this UK during the 2014 spring half-term favourite meal, all sounds a little too exciting, relax; break from just £2,299. and then spend Royal Caribbean’s fleet of qualified the evening enjoying Royal Caribbean’s instructors supervise kids and Book by 30 September 2013 and, on renowned dining hospitality. ensure they’re always safe, so you 2014 sailings of seven nights or can take some time for yourself. In more, you will also receive free kids’ fact, the line’s intuitive but not soda packages and free wine to overpowering approach caters to enjoy with adults’ dinners. Plus, on everyone’s idea of heaven; whether With a wonderful time onboard all 2014 European holidays, children that’s being pampered at the Vitality guaranteed, the biggest decision you’ll go free on shore-excursion tours spa, a shopping excursion, a make on your Royal Caribbean adventure when two adults book a tour. glamorous night at the evening is the destination. Don’t be misled by the entertainment or simply enjoying a name. As well as its renowned Caribbean To find our more, visit moment of peace looking out over itineraries, Royal Caribbean offers an royalcaribbean.co.uk the ocean and leafing through a incredible 240 destinations in 72 countries or call 0844 493 4005 good book. and six continents. Which to choose? Once you’ve had your thrill Remember you can always rely on the of onboard activities it’s time to ultimate beauty of the cruise; the chance refuel with a smorgasbord of culinary delicacies. We to visit multiple destinations in one luxurious and suggest you lunch at the buffet, where each family entirely hassle-free holiday.

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BOOKS

OLIVER AND THE SEAWIGS

By Philip Reeve and Sarah McIntyre £8.99 Age: 7+ Oliver Crisp is searching for his parents, but with only a myopic mermaid, a surly albatross and a dynastic background in exploration to help – not to mention a villain in pursuit – things don’t look good. The tempestuous adventure that ensues is enlivened with swirling marine drawings to gripping effect. And this pageturner finally reveals the truth about sea monkeys.

PHOTOGRAPH: GETTY IMAGES

PIGEON PIE OH MY! By Debbie Singleton and Kristyna Litten £11.99 All ages Five rotund pigeons are wreaking feathered havoc on the Budd family farm, but thankfully Tiny Chick has hatched a plan to send them flapping. This tale of a small but mighty hen is fabulous, and it’s a worthy addition to any fledgling bookshelf.

THE FURTHER ADVENTURES OF THE OWL AND THE PUSSY-CAT

WORDS & PICTURES The latest books and films reviewed by JENNIFER KENNEDY

HAPPILY NEVER AFTER: MODERN CAUTIONARY TALES

By Mitchell Symons £7.99 Age: 7+ This book is sure to whip any child into shape. Its series of tales breezes through life’s important lessons: bullies get their comeuppance, girls find the pitfalls in social networking and boys the penalties of breaking wind. Altogether, it’s a gigglesome mix.

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By Julia Donaldson and Charlotte Voake £10.99 All ages Almost 150 years after they first sailed away in a beautiful pea-green boat, Edward Lear’s romantic owl and his feline fiancée are back; under the wing of children’s laureate Julia Donaldson. Poor Pussy-cat has had her wedding ring stolen and, via Donaldson’s perfect rhymes and some beautiful watercolours, we follow the couple out of bong-tree land on their hunt for the thief.

FROSTBITE: A VAMPIRE ACADEMY GRAPHIC NOVEL

By Richelle Mead £9.99 Age: 12+ The bestselling blend of bloodlusty drama reaches new heights in this stormy graphic novel. The teens at St Vladimir’s school are on their annual ski trip and there’s lots of teen angst a-brewing. This is a highschool read with real bite.

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FILMS TURBO 3D Certificate: U Released: 18 October Making the bizarre seem plausible is a signature Dreamworks skill – and it’s shown to vivid effect here in Turbo 3D. Theo, a garden snail who dreams of being speedy, is embroiled in a scientific accident and given lightning pace. Soon, Theo’s snapped up by a racing team and his once-impossible wish to compete in the Indy 500 motor race becomes closer than ever. Funny, wellmade, and feelgood in a warm-the-cockles-of-yourheart sort of way, Turbo 3D is a must-watch family film.

ONE TO BOO K A BABYSIT TER FOR

BLUE JASMINE Certificate: 12A Released: 27 September Woody Allen delivers a director’s masterclass in this solid story of a New York socialite (Cate Blanchett) whose life crumbles when her husband (Alec Baldwin) is charged with fraud. Jasmine must forgo her life of party-planning and Pilates and downsize to her sister’s San Francisco pad. Allen explores her subsequent mental bruising in an artsy production sparkling with chinks of comedy; a truly memorable take on the well-trodden princess-to-pauper tale.

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CLOUDY WITH A CHANCE OF MEATBALLS 2

Certificate: U Released: 25 October If children ever need a reason not play with their food, this film offers plenty. In the first movie in this series, inventor Flint Lockwood made food come alive, but now his delectable animals are out of control and poised to plunder New York. Jammed with puns, this absorbing animation will transport you to a delicious Wonkaesque wonderland, just watch out for lurking cheese-spiders and taco-diles.

family traveller.com

GRAVITY 3D Certificate: 12A Released: 11 October A space-travel thriller pumped with big-budget Hollywood credentials, Gravity 3D was always going to be interesting – but the result is even better than we’d expected. Produced by Leonardo DiCaprio, it follows two astronauts (Sandra Bullock and George Clooney) whose spacewalk skids into disaster, leaving them stranded in the abyss. Both George and the cosmos look stunning in 3D, putting a cherry on top of this already polished production.

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APPS

APP-SOLUTELY FOR KIDS Jennifer Kennedy on the best downloads to keep kids quiet on your travels…

STARRING YOU

Apple, free Starring You lets you upload your own images to feature in a selection of stories. Little ones will have a hoot watching themselves play the lead in Wild Western Tale, Orchestra Time or – our favourite – My Pets and Me. We expect they’ll want to read the stories over and over again.

PUPPET WORKSHOP

Apple, £1.49 A crafty classic rendered in app form, this snap of creative ingenuity lets you make virtual sock puppets. Choose a sock or glove, pick from the hotchpotch of 200 body parts and accessories, and once you’ve completed your textile friend simply paint them a beautiful background.

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DK QUIZ

FEED ME OIL

Apple, free Dorling Kindersley has packaged up all its brainy goodness into this app, and its quizzes will keep kids entertained as they delve into DK’s endless stream of topics. From insects to old movies, there’s something for everybody – one click can become hours of quizzical fun.

Apple, £0.69. Android, free The crudely titled Feed Me Oil stars a ravenous landscape that’s gasping for barrelfuls of the greasy nectar. Quench its thirst by directing the flow to where it’s most needed. This feat of digi-engineering is completely addictive and features some delightful accompanying music.

FISH OUT OF WATER

HISTORY HERO

Apple, £0.69. Android, coming soon Six fish, dissatisfied with underwater living, are desperate to discover the world above the ocean surface. Help the finned freedom-seekers by catapulting them high into the air. Be warned: tsunamis, icebergs and jellyfish are all determined to turn this marine adventure into a washout.

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Apple, free This app invites kids – and grown-ups – to embark on a series of interactive adventures when visiting historical sites, breathing new life into the old buildings around them. And though the missions are based on historical fact, there’s one major anachronism. All involve fights against aliens.

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APP-SOLUTELY FOR ADULTS ... and here are some of our favourites for the grown-ups, too

ITRANSLATE

Apple, Android, free No need to fiddle with phrase books when you have iTranslate. Simply speak to this digi-linguist and it will translate your words into the language of your choice. Expect your family and, most importantly, sullen French waiters to gaze at you openmouthed as you fluently hold forth.

TED

Apple, Android, free An extension of cult ‘ideas’ website TED, this is the perfect solution for mid-journey boredom. With more than 1,500 mini lectures, or ‘talks’, by some of the world’s most inspired thinkers – from rock stars to scientific mega boffins – this is a wonderful way to re-energise your brain.

AA TRAVEL COMPANION

Apple, Android, free Unsure where to bag a sticky baklava in Istanbul or a good battered cod and chips in London? Or vice versa even? Then try Foodspotting, a foodie app that allows you to filter by destination and dish. Simply type in where you are and what food you fancy eating, then check the picture and tuck in.

GLYMPSE

BRITISH FILM LOCATIONS

Apple, Android, free Here ends the battle between worried parents and teenagers desperate for independence. With Glympse, users share their location with chosen ‘friends’. Meaning your teens won’t need to text or answer their phone because you’ll already be tracking them. Isn’t technology clever?

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FOODSPOTTING

Apple, Android, free This trusty app will streamline your travel. It securely holds personal information on flights, travel insurance and passports, along with emergency contact numbers for your debit-card issuers. It even includes helpful local amenity maps, weather reports and Foreign Office updates.

Apple, Android, free Ever thought a building looked a little too familiar? Simply press a button on your phone and this app will tell you whether you’ve seen it on the silver screen. Type in a postcode and it’ll present you with a hidden-gem list of nearby film locations. Great for staycations and British city breaks.

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GADGETS

GADGETS FOR YOUR GETAWAY The best new holiday-enhancing gizmos. By RUTH LEWY

TAKE THE LEAP

I SPY

Tired of little finger smudges appearing on your iPad or smartphone screens? You need LeapPad Ultra, the tablet that’s ideal for kids on a journey. As well a camera and a high-resolution display, LeapPad Ultra provides access to 800-plus apps that are guaranteed to keep young minds busy in transit. It’s also virtually indestructible. leapfrog.com

Kids and adults can indulge their inner Bond with the Spy Watch, £90, which records video and audio, and takes covert photographs. It’s splashproof, and even comes with water protectors, so you can record in the pool. With an impressive 4GB of built-in storage, countless holiday memories can be captured at the press of a button. sciencemuseumshop.co.uk

LE T S YO U SEE IN T HE DAR K

SPEAKERS CORNER Whether relaxing on your balcony or by the pool, you can take your tunes, podcasts or radio with you thanks to the Jongo S3 wireless speaker, £169.95, from audio specialist Pure. It connects using WiFi as well as Bluetooth, resulting in optimum sound quality for speakers of this size. The battery lasts 10 hours, which is ideal for day trips. johnlewis.com

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MIDNIGHT RAMBLERS

Adventurers young and old will love this kit, which can make a nighttime journey fun. On an evening nature walk, see what exotic creepy crawlies you can find with these clever National Geographic Night Vision Goggles, £19.95. They come with headlights and a magnifier scope to bring flora and fauna to life, even after dark. www.handpickedcollection.com

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S T YLISH UL! EF A N D US

SET THE BAR HIGH

POINT AND CLICK

Every now and then a gadget comes along that solves a problem you didn’t even know you had; the Zooka speaker bar, £69.99, is one such. It maximises your tablet’s audio power using Bluetooth connectivity, and it acts as a stand, so you can easily watch movies or make Skype calls. The tough silicone body is even hardy enough for outdoor use. firebox.com

Traditional cameras are back. Give your family holiday photos a retro, sun-bleached, hazy blur with this compact Diana Mini lomographic camera (with flash), £85. Cultishly cool, it acts like a real-life Hipstamatic, and will lend your photo album a fun, 1970s look. This model also comes with gel filters to give your pictures a burst of colour. urbanoutfitters.co.uk

PIMP YOUR CAMERAPHONE

BEAT BOREDOM

The Olloclip, £59.99, is a nifty attachment that converts your iPhone into a versatile photo-taking tool. Just slot on this three-in-one gadget and you can take fish-eye, wideangle and macro photos. The pocket-sized attachment works with apps such as Hipstamatic and Instagram, so you can make your online snaps look enviably cool. olloclip.com

Frustrated ‘Are we nearly there yet?’ voices will fall silent thanks to the Sony PlayStation Vita Mega Pack, £169. The console comes with 10 boredom-busting games for all the family, including favourites WipEout 2048, LittleBigPlanet and MotorStorm RC. There’s also a useful 8GB memory card, and built-in front and rear cameras. amazon.co.uk

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NO KIDS ON THE BLOCK CLIVE RICHARD and his partner leave their son at home and take the short flight to Marrakech, Morocco, where they discover luxurious accommodation, stylish bars and – of course – a funky old medina

ARABIAN NIGHTS

The courtyard at Palais Namaskar, Marrakech

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Marrakech / child-free

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nd so we were on our way; our four-year-old son safely packed off with the mother-in-law. Not an overnight in a B&B with postmodern wallpaper somewhere within earshot of London, but Marrakech. Heat and donkeys and the wail of the muezzin; mysticism and mint tea. We’ll trade William S Burroughs anecdotes with drawling French expats, and sit cross-legged with holy men in the Atlas Mountains. I’ll learn calligraphy and recite the poems of Omar Khayyam. ‘More importantly,’ my partner Jo says, ‘I can finish reading Gone Girl.’ There’s no time difference between the UK and Marrakech, but four in the afternoon here is a different hour to the grey-skied one at home. ‘How hot?’ we ask our driver. ‘About 35˚C!’ And we cruise past crumbling ochre ramparts, watermelon stalls and women in sky-coloured jellabas who glide out into the road. Then out into the spiky, otherworldly landscape of La Palmeraie, our destination a resort called the Palais Namaskar. In the lobby there’s a lavish edition of The Thousand and One Nights, its pages rich with antique illustrations of almond-eyed beauties sprawling on embroidered cushions by limpid palace pools. The artists might easily have had the Namaskar in mind. Rows of crinkle-cut arches are reflected in aquamarine shallows – and there’s water everywhere, cascades and ponds of it, criss-crossed by walkways and bridges. Sunlight bounces off golden cupolas; lawns are shaded by orange trees and palms as lofty as a ship’s mast. Down a passage thick with bougainvillea is our LA-style pool bungalow and a siege-proof door that swings shut and leaves us alone in our own walled garden. Instant calm. Our driver told us the US rapper Akon had just left the Palais, along with his entourage. Well, we don’t have an entourage, but could easily entertain one in our living room. There are floor-toceiling windows in all directions; lots of comfy chairs to ploof down on. The heated swimming pool is set within a larger, cool-water pond… and, ‘What on earth are you doing?’ Jo cries, as I strip off and plunge in. You don’t need to pack swimwear. Easy to stay within our walls, to dip in and out of the pool and dry off on the sun lounger, then repeat until there’s no more sun. We sway in hammocks, try the main pool for fun, and feast on fresh fruits, blue

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Marrakech / child-free MAROC STARS

From left: Jemmaa el Fna, the main city square; Jardin Majorelle; one of the city’s hammams

lobster, velvety soft tagines and flaky chicken pastille in the restaurant. ‘Umbrella, ella, ella ella,’ sings our smiling, gentle-voiced waiter at breakfast, as he shades us from the sun. I wonder what another recent guest, Mick Jagger, did while he was here. He’s no stranger your to Marrakech, of course, having landed here sandalwood. But then one of in the late 1960s – I’d like to think he unpacked you gets distracted by an eyeless sheep’s HOW TO GET THERE his vintage kaftans, and kicked back with a head or some authentic Moroccan Beats easyJet (easyjet.com) flies to pipe of local kif for old time’s sake. by Dre headphones and it’s all to naught. Marrakech from Gatwick, Stansted But Marrakech is calling to us, and being To my amusement, Jo is ensnared on and Manchester, from around away by yourselves means just setting off Jemmaa El Fna, the city’s epic, medieval £100 return. Gatwick Express with no real plan and no idea what time you’ll square. At dusk it sparks into life, smoke (gatwickexpress.com) runs between be back. Jo suggests we visit Jardin Majorelle, coiling up from barbecue coals like djinns; London Victoria and Gatwick every a place she’s missed on previous trips. It was in the afternoon it snoozes, apart from the 15 minutes, from £30 return. planted by Jacques Majorelle in the 1930s, clamour of snake charmers. Stepping in then restored by Yves St Laurent in the 1980s, to take a closer look, she’s lassooed by a WHERE TO STAY and it’s like being inside the hot house at Kew serpent, its owner whispering ‘Good luck, Palais Namaskar (+212 5 24 299800; – except you’re outside. There are jasmines good luck, just 300 dirhams’. I rescue her palaisnamaskar.com). Doubles from and yuccas and sudden, startling stalagmites for a fraction of that and a little less luck, €590, including breakfast. of cacti, interspersed with flashes of bird-ofand her slithery cravat is removed. paradise blue paint from Jacques’s palette. Wherever you are in Marrakech, head WHAT TO VISIT In the café we slurp smoothies of almond, to a rooftop half an hour before the sun 33 Rue Majorelle (33ruemajorelle. avocado and dates. Inspired by Yves, several sets. In the medina, there are two good com). Jardin Majorelle funky design shops have opened in the street ones at Un Dejeuner a Marrakech, a stylish (jardinmajorelle.com). outside. The souks sell many wonderful café in the souks, and Kosybar, a chill-out things, but if you already own a carpet or bar in the old Jewish quarter. But the Palais WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK two, slippers and a teapot, walk into 33 Rue Namaskar has a wonderful terrace of its Grand Café de la Poste, corner of Majorelle, a split-level boutique where Jo own. Perched on cushions, we sip cool Boulevard el-Mansour Eddahbi and picks up a quirky tote bag and a colourful beers as music bubbles up from the DJ Ave Imam Malik. Kosybar, 47 Place apron made by local designers. and frogs from the lake join in. In the des Ferblantiers (kosybar.com). Un After lunch at Grand Café de la Poste – a distance, the Atlas Mountains are cloaked Dejeuner a Marrakech, 4 rue angle place you might expect to encounter Marlene in haze. Below, tea lights flicker like Kennaria et Douar Graoua. Dietrich puffing from a cigarette holder fireflies. This is what being away without beneath the swishing ceiling fans – we dive kids is about, isn’t it? Not just rushing into the medina. The secret to navigating the around at breakneck speed and staying souks is to walk in a determined fashion without out till late, but enjoying the space and the sounds and looking left or right as if you know exactly where the warm breeze on our skin. It would be too hot for you’re heading – and, yes, yes, we do this journey every him, we say; none of the restaurants do sausages and day and thanks but no thanks, I don’t want to smell baked beans. But we promise we’ll all go in the winter.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: CORBIS; SHUTTERSTOCK

MARRAKECH: THE LOWDOWN

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Q&A

‘KIDS ARE GREAT TRAVELLERS’ Actress and mother of three GILLIAN ANDERSON, 45, star of Sky Living’s Hannibal and recent BBC drama The Fall, talks travel with Sarah Maber

Is travel important to you? Travel is a huge part of my life. I’m on airplanes all the time. The place I’ve gone to the most over the past five years is Sri Lanka – I fell in love with it in 2008, and I bought a property there. I was looking for a place on the beach but then I fell in love with this extraordinary colonial-style house on a coconut plantation. While I was doing it up, I would go five times a year with the kids. I perfected the technique of long-haul travel with children. Any tips on keeping children quiet on long-haul flights? Kids are actually great travellers; they’re very adaptable. When they’re young, the best thing to do is to travel on night flights, and take enough toys and soft books to occupy them. As they get older, just do whatever gets them through the flight. My kids are usually quite restricted on their TV time, but on flights I don’t care if they watch four movies. There’s only so much colouring that can be done…

And what was your worst-ever trip? When my now 18-year-old daughter Piper was 18 months old, I did a press tour for The X-Files. My husband and I were young, and properly exploring Europe for the first time. Because of my schedule, we gave ourselves two days in Florence, two days in Paris, two days in Venice… it was insane. It was August and so hot. I’d rented a house in France that turned out to be like a dungeon. We walked in the door and turned right around again. A relative had a tiny campervan that we borrowed and we ended up at a campsite in St Tropez, and had the best time. City break or beach holiday? Because I spend a lot of my time in cities I would say beach. The one thing I have the hardest time doing is relaxing. If I’m in a city, I’m going to be exploring; on the beach I’ll actually read.

What was your first holiday as a child? When I was six months old, we moved to Puerto Rico for about 15 months. It wasn’t meant to be a holiday, but there was a great deal of surfing and beach time. I remember being in my nappies on the beach and napping on a hammock swinging between palm trees. I remember the ocean.

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What do you do when you first arrive? I suss out the accommodation and work out who’s going to go where and what the playing area is going to be. I put the toys out and move anything that might get broken. What would be your perfect holiday? I want to go to Vietnam and Cambodia – but that’s one to do as a solo trip.

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PHOTOGRAPH: REX FEATURES

Do you have a favourite hotel? There’s a place in Sri Lanka called Club Villa (clubvilla.com). It has a beautiful pool and grounds, and it’s very child friendly. There’s a railway line that runs through the garden and separates the hotel from the beach. Most people would think ‘what a shame’. But it’s so romantic to be in the pool with your kids smelling the frangipani when all of a sudden this rickety old train goes through the garden.

What has been your most memorable trip? My second husband and I once drove from Kenya down to Johannesburg, and camped in places along the way. There were buffalo and crocodiles and hippos; there were elephants nearby. One afternoon, there was a red kite circling around us and we started throwing up pieces of hot dogs. The kite would swoop down and catch them. That was pretty memorable.

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What items would you never travel without? Flip flops, I wear them pretty much every day; you shouldn’t be without them in hot countries.

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