The finer foods

LEFT: Jambalaya is a savory entree available at Redemption in Faribault. TOP: A wedge salad at Redemption ABOVE: A loaded Bloody Mary with a chaser is among the specialty cocktails awaiting customers at Redemption.

Dining is in Southern Minnesota

By JANE TURPIN MOORE Guest Contributor

When the occasion or mood calls for an upgrade beyond the completely casual, it isn’t always easy to think of the right place to go. And in a region that’s notably more dress-down than dress-up, what exactly constitutes “fine dining?” Maybe it means a place with tablecloths and cloth napkins; those definitely kick environments up a notch. Or to some, it might be leather booths and craft cocktails that elevate the experience. Even if some of the classier area eateries don’t always wish to strictly classify themselves as “fine dining” establishments, you somehow know one when you see it.

Take, for instance, Redemption Kitchen &

Beautifully situated in a refurbished historic building first constructed in the 1870s, Redemption’s brick walls (dignified stone graces the lower level, which can also double as a private party space), high ceilings, pendant lighting over an extensive bar, dark wood chairs and handcrafted wood tables all set the scene for enlightened dining.

“We don’t like to call it ‘fine dining,’ but instead we say it’s the finest dining within Faribault,” said Redemption General Manager Jessica Eskelson.

“The owners tried to keep all of the building’s classic features in place and emphasize its historic aspects.” Only a few other local establishments have done the same, she says.

“Elegant” is an adjective Eskelson uses to describe Redemption, and the atmosphere makes it an attractive place, not only for customers, but also for employees.

“One local artist did some paintings for us, and another created a living plant wall [in the back room on a south-facing north wall],” said Eskelson. “We’re trying to open the eyes of Faribault residents to the wonderful art made here by featuring local artists’ work and creations, along with amazing food and beverages.”

After all, terrific dining is the target for which Redemption and other aspirational “fine dining” restaurants are aiming. And Eskelson is proud to say Redemption readily achieves that goal.

“I don’t think anyone else offers food like Redemption does,” said Eskelson, mentioning fan favorites such as Asian-seasoned lettuce wraps, artisanal wedge salads, a shrimp-stocked jambalaya, chicken tortellini, dry-aged ribeye, sirloin and tenderloin meals, a smokehouse platter for two (“It’s a very generous serving size,” Eskelson hinted) and six dessert options — something to suit every palate preference, including tiramisu, cheesecake, strawberry layer cake, three-layer carrot cake, five-layer chocolate cake and a to-die-for bread budding accented with seasonal fruits (peaches have been a recent highlight).

And even though Eskelson says Redemption is “elegant but accessible” — meaning shorts and sandals are acceptable, but it’s also the type of place about which some couples might say, “C’mon, honey, let’s get fancy and go out on a date” — she guarantees first-rate service and equitable treatment for all customers.

“You come here for an experience, and we are going to make that experience excellent; we’re not settling for anything less,” Eskelson said.

Proof of this arrived in the form of a recent customer service

award from the Faribault Area Chamber of Commerce — a great recognition at any time, but especially notable since Redemption is just over a year old.

Additional features like craft cocktails (two Eskelson recommends are the Redemption Old-Fashioned or a refreshing apricot gimlet topped with a sprig of fresh rosemary), live music and comedy nights on weekends come this fall and the ability to host events involving either a buffet line or limited menu options combine to make Redemption a must-try for special nights out, or for special group occasions.

Now, that’s just fine.

The restaurant is located at 31 Third St. NE, Faribault. 507323-8054, get-redemption.com

Ettlin’s Ranchero Supper Club, 4452 40th

St. West, Webster. 952-652-2700, rancherosupperclub.com.

Step back into outstate indulgent supper club dining of yesteryear at Ettlin’s Ranchero Supper Club. A complimentary bread basket and relish tray, plus a crouton-topped dinner salad? Natch.

With taglines like “A Swiss-inspired supper club” and “A casual yet fine dining experience,” you know you’re in the right place for the old-school but classy full-meal deal you’ve been craving. Appetizers like deep-fried mushrooms, crab cakes or breaded frog legs will set you up to enjoy one of a variety of seafood dinners (broiled or deep-fried walleye or steak & scallops, anyone?), unless a New York strip steak or wiener schnitzel are more your style.

Either way, save room for spaetzle or “family recipe” au gratin potatoes (dare you to eat ‘em all!), and don’t leave without savoring their housemade New York-style cheesecake or bread pudding.

Seafood at Ettlin’s Ranchero Supper Club

Number 4 American Bar & Kitchen, 124

E. Walnut St., Mankato. 507-344-1444, number4mankato.com.

Quality cocktails and sophisticated cuisine in an upscale dining room (leather booths and polished dark wood tables create a cool, clubby feel) might just make Number 4 in downtown Mankato your Number One spot for fine dining.

Relax with a 4 Sangria or icy mojito while enjoying appetizers like mussels, caprese bruschetta or a full half-pound of applewood-smoked bacon enhanced with jalapeños and a specialty bourbon glaze (really!). Whether you go all-in with rich fettuccine Alfredo or keep it lighter with an Ahi tuna poke bowl, your entree options extend to further pasta dishes, salads, sandwiches, seafood, savory steaks or a comforting chicken pot pie.

Desserts like a mile-high chocolate cream cake and brownie sundaes may do further damage to your daily calorie count—but who’s counting beyond Number 4?

Servers at Torey’s Restaurant and Bar, one of downtown Owatonna’s most popular establishments, pick up orders for their waiting customers.

Torey’s Restaurant

& Bar, 208 N. Cedar Ave., Owatonna. 507-455-9260, toreys.net.

Full-service bar, martinis and unique wines—need we say more to convince you this is the place in Owatonna for your finedining meal?

Boasting the largest alcohol selection in southern Minnesota (with over 30 bottled beers, 16 Reunion in Northfield offers some high end food items. Co-owners of Lacey’s Kitchen & Cocktails Steven Lacey and Heather Thram behind the bar. (File photo/southernminn.com) beers on tap and 140 bottles of booze), you’ll be set to start off with wings, egg rolls or a flatbread pizza. Salads, sandwiches, a variety of pasta choices and a delectable listing of steak, walleye or BBQ pork rib dinners will further tempt you.

Seekers of early happy hours will find Torey’s to be their happy place, with specials enacted from 3 to 5:30 p.m. each weekday. Reunion, 501 Division St. South, Northfield. 507-3661337, reunioneatdrinkgather.com

If you want to feel really fancy, grab your gang and request the table near the grill at Reunion. Watching their expert chefs execute the production of your chosen house-smoked ribs, citrus/ chili-glazed salmon or 12-ounce ribeye bedecked with smoked tomato bacon jam is sure to get your mouth watering well in advance of the entree’s ultimate arrival.

But hold on; you can warm up your chops with shrimp crostini, bang bang shrimp, walleye cakes or avocado toast, among other enticing appetizers. A la carte side dishes like bacon Brussel sprouts, parmesan frites or house smashed potatoes will nicely complement your meal.

Take in the ambiance of this restored historic space, just one block removed from the bank where Jesse James and his gang infamously tried to deprive Northfield’s 1876 residents of their hard-earned dollars. Rest assured, it’s all about customer satisfaction at Reunion—including during a 4 to 6 p.m. happy hour each Wednesday through Friday. Lacey’s Kitchen & Cocktails, 632 2nd St., Kenyon. 507-623-1173, laceyskc.com. In this southwestern Goodhue County town, founded in 1856 and listing just under 2,000 residents in the 2020 census, Lacey’s Kitchen & Cocktails boldly goes where no other local restaurant ventures: to New American cuisine served in a stylish setting. Start off with firecracker shrimp or an order of arancini; progress to a salad (house, classic wedge, Asian chicken or gyro); and continue with Baja fish tacos, a black-and-bleu burger or a croissant concoction (chicken salad or BLT). Soups, an unusually lengthy kids’ menu (eight choices!) and an inventive dessert menu (raspberry donut cheesecake, a root beer float or a specialty brownie sundae) are among the appealing sweet treats. With New England Culinary Institute-trained chef Steven Lacey in the kitchen, proceed with confidence. Pizzeria 201, 201 First St. South, Montgomery. 507364-5000, pizzeria201.com. Southern Minnesota has few dedicated Italian restaurants—but tasty Italian doesn’t get much better than at Pizzeria 201. A welcome addition for area lovers of pasta and pizza since 2010, Pizzeria 201’s location in the Historic Westerman lumber office and house in downtown Montgomery lends itself well to those wishing to recreate the romantic vision depicted in Billy Joel’s 1977 hit “Scenes from an Italian Restaurant” (“…a bottle of white, a bottle of red….get a table near the street, in our old familiar place…). If that and a baguette with hot pepperoncini dip, some cheesegooey baked lasagna, a calzone or Stromboli and a “Roman holiday” pizza aren’t enough to get you in the mood—well, you’re on your own. Sweeten the deal with a scoop of gelato (recent flavors include lemon pie, dark chocolate, pistachio and blood orange), Swiss chocolate layer cake or salted caramel cheesecake.  Freelance writer/collaborative pianist Jane Turpin Moore grew up in the Mankato area and is now based in Northfield. She blogs at timeformoore566445504.wordpress.com and fields emails at jturpinmoore@gmail. com.