Dry,

medium or sweet?

In January, there is a tradition to "wake up" the apple trees for the new year In Somerset these are mainly apples for the production of cider – a drink, which the British consume more than any other people in the world "Wassailing" has been practiced since the 17th century: farmers and citizens come together, pour cider onto the tree roots – so that the "blood of life" is passed on from year to year – and make a lot of noise to drive away evil spirits They drink – with cider, of course – to the wellbeing of the trees and to a new good apple year ahead

At Lands End Cider apples are harvested well into December This is done mechanically with a special device that is pulled through the apple orchards by a tractor and collects the apples, which are this late in the year, of course on the ground

Cider apples differ from dessert apples not only in terms of taste: their pulp has a fibrous, woody structure, which facilitates juice pressing In addition, they usually have a high content of tannin, which gives the cider its typical golden color and a somewhat bitter taste

"When you bite into a cider apple, you would immediately spit it out again, only pressed and fermented these apples unfold their potential," reveals cider maker Roger Wilkins

If you want to come to his farm, better: find his farm – you have to travel to the end of the world Lands End Farm his estate is called, it is tucked away between hills and apple orchards at the end of a narrow side road not far from Wedmore in the heart of Somerset The journey is worth it The visitor feels far away from the hectic world, transported to a place where there is still time. Whether for chatting or enjoying a "good and clean" glass of cider, as they say here Here they alway serve “half a pint" for tasting, after which each additional glass costs only £1 50

In a large barn – between oak barrels and an old apple press – cider-drinking men sit around a large old round table. Work is going on around them. There is a tractor bringing in anew load of apples The apples are washed, crushed, spread by two men on porous mats, which in turn lie on wooden slats; after ten layers on top of each other, the stack is pushed under a press, which squeezes golden yellow apple juice from it The unpasteurized juice will later on ferment and later on mature in oak barrels to 'Farmhouse Cider ’

Roger Wilkins makes cider as it used to be, following grandfather's recipes It was Roger's grandfather who started making cider here over 100 years ago; when he died in 1969, Roger took over the cider production.

The production of cider has a long tradition in Somerset. Cider making as a source of income was first mentioned in 1230 in a royal charter to the Bishop of Bath For many years cider – rich in vitamins – was drunk on sea voyages to prevent scurvy And until well into the 19th century, part of a labourers wage was paid in cider.

Many associate Somerset with cider making Nevertheless it is Herefordshire where half of all cider drunk in the UK is produced France produces the most cider in the world, but no country drinks more cider per capita than the British

The Somerset region is ideal for cider production There is the mild climate, "no real winters," as Roger calls it, the steady rainfall, the soil and about 500 different apple varieties "I'm still learning," admits the 76-year-old, who has been in the business for 54 years

Roger points to the apple press, where a young man works. It is his 26-year-old grandson Richard, who one day will take over the cider business. But Roger is far from thinking about quitting Cider is his medicine, as he reveals with a wink At the age of ten he drank it for the first time, and at 10 o'clock in the morning he drinks the first glass of ten a day When Roger laughs, it is hearty and unbridled Among cider lovers, he is known as the "Somerset Cider Legend " Celebrities like Jamie Oliver and Mick Jagger have been here as well and been thrilled

There are small and large cider manufacturers spread around the Somerset region Some with state-ofthe-art production facilities for the mass market, others produce farmhouse cider the old way. Thatcher's Cider in Sandford in northern Somerset has been around since 1904. The family business is one of the leading medium-sized cider manufacturers in England "Thatcher's Gold" is the UK's best-selling cider on tap

Sheppy's Cider is also known internationally and the Sheppy family has been working on their farm outside the small town of Taunton for almost 200 years Sheppy's is famous for its interesting creations such as cider with elderflower or raspberries There is also a beautiful and well-stocked farm shop

It is located in the former production room, where the old tanks are still standing and disused oak barrels are embedded in the ceiling of the public toilet Visitors are allowed to walk through the apple orchards, where they pass black wooden silos , where cider matures There is a small cider museum, where you can admire the history of the Sheppy family. There are many awards for their outstanding cider and a photo of farmer J. Sheppy and his dairy cow, which set the milk world record in 1912 Originally, cider production was a sideline for farmers Today, agriculture is a sideline to the cider business At Sheppy's, there is a herd of Longhorn cattle and some Suffolk sheep as part of the business, the meat is sold in the farm shop

Also at Burrow Hill Farm – 20 miles away – there are sheep as part of the business They graze among the apple trees, keep the grass short and eat the apples that remain after harvesting In the farm shop you can buy cider on tap from 170-year-old oak barrels or buy potato chips from a renowned company with “Burrow Hill cider vinegar“ flavor. But most come here for a British treasure. Julian Temperley is the pioneer of the British cider brandy scene In 1987, he began distilling his cider for the production of brandy, which, matures in oak barrels between six months and 20 years The operation here looks old fashioned, but that's exactly what makes it so charming And Burrow Hill Farm is the best example of not being biased Brandy from here can be found in London's best restaurants and at British embassies around the world and was served at Prince Harry's wedding. It is priced accordingly: 100ml of the 20-year-old brandy will set you back £24.

Travelling through Somerset here and there are hand-painted signs pointing to "cider" or a "cider farm " From Burrow Hill Farm 30 minutes northeast is Heck's Cider The Cider Farm turns out to be a few inconspicuous stone buildings in the middle of the small village of The Street At the entrance boxes full of apples, indoors a well-stocked farm shop and the impressive sight of countless old oak barrels The shelves bend under regional delicacies: juices, vinegar, spirits, chutneys, huge jars of pickled onions and of course, cheddar cheese made from the milk of Somerset cows. Cheddar cheese and cider compliment each other very well.

The Heck family has been producing traditional Farmhouse Cider from their own apples here since 1841 The freshly squeezed juice ferments in 100-year-old oak barrels and is sold as cider on tap Andrew Heck, the 6th generation of the family business stands at the tap and pours a cup to taste His cider tastes very different to the ones made in factories, where plastic or steel containers are used, he says. The cider from the barrel is available in the flavors dry, medium or sweet. As with Roger Wilkins and Julian Temperley, the cider is mixed according to the customer's wishes Heck's also sells their own cider bottled or from just one apple variety Andrew Heck's favorite apple variety is "Porters Perfection," as he reveals It makes a great cider and the apples can be harvested until late, sometimes until February

Twenty minutes drive NW back at Roger Wilkins' farm people are in high spirits The last apples are pressed and Roger has prepared some mulled cider –which is the traditional way of drinking cider at "Wassailing " Currently there are up to 200 visitors a day to his farm, and he expects more, if this cost-of living crisis continues, he says. The price of a pint of cider has become expensive “Soon no working man can afford to drink it in the pub “

Wilkins sells around 200 000 litres of cider per year from the farm On request, he reveals the recipe for the mulled cider: "To half a gallon warm cider add three generous shots of gin, season with brown sugar and ginger " To check the temperature, Roger dips his finger into the golden yellow juice He generously fills the glasses of his guests and toasts: "Cheers – to a good new cider year "

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