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Colors abound at B&M Greenhouse in the spring
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JORDAN MILES | HER ALD
ants, herbs wers, vegetable pl flo of ty rie va e id aw es, Charlene Greenhouse grow erson, Matt Ream ilk W y Ja t, lef m The staff at B&M fro und. Pictured are, and ferns year ro ry on page 2. sto e Se rs. ge Ro Houston and Chris
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Growing with the community B&M Greenhouse offers variety and expert advice BY JORDAN MILES The Farmville Herald
Though they uproot and replant their stock flat after flat, day after day, Farmville’s sole full-service greenhouse is deeply rooted in the community in more ways than one. Since 1979, Chris Rogers and his staff at B&M Greenhouse — located off Milnwood Road — have nurtured the trees, vegetables, flowers and shrubbery of local gardeners and landscapers, providing them with not only vibrant flora and seeds but instilling their customers and the Heart of Virginia with a knowledge of plants and how to care for them. Just as the Farmville community has grown like a well-cared for plant, so has
Rogers’ greenhouses and operation. Rogers’ 10 greenhouses and 24,000 square feet of trees, shrubs, soil, flowers, vegetable plants and gardening tools makes up this well-known establishment — one that gardeners flock to every year. “I started working here when I was in high school,” Rogers said, standing in one of two retail greenhouses, surrounded by lush hanging ferns. “Johnny Bollinger owned it at that time. Then I went to college, and I worked a few other jobs.” Rogers moved to Farmville in 1971 after living in Louisa County. The “B” and “M” in the business’ name stands for Bollinger, while the “M” stands for Matthews, after Harold Matthews — two of the men who estab-
lished it many years ago. “Spring is our biggest time of year with vegetables, herbs, hanging baskets and perennials and annuals. Everybody gets afflicted with spring fever,” Rogers said. The greenhouse is stocked full of a wide variety of plants year round. Not only does Rogers sell plants, but he also offers landscaping services, plant rental, consultation and planning, container services and repotting. “It’s seasonal,” he said of his growing operation. “We grow poinsettias for Christmas, and most of those are planted in like July and August.” Most of the poinsettias are sold wholesale to florists, he said.
See GREENHOUSE, Page 3
JORDAN MILES | HERALD
Chris Rogers and the staff at B&M Greenhouse raise a variety of flowers year round, such as the ones pictured.
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GREENHOUSE: Staff depends on customers for what’s popular FROM PAGE TWO
In recent years, he’s seen edibles, such as herbs and vegetable plants, rise in popularity. “That’s definitely where the growth has been,” he said. “This is where we get a lot of the work done,” said Charlene Houston, who’s worked at B&M for over 20 years. “We start in a flat like this,” she said, walking into a greenhouse full of seedlings and ferns. “I’m making little rows in it. We’ve already taken the seedlings out as you see up there,” she said, pointing to the variety of plants scattered around on wooden tables, including lettuce, spinach, kale, parsley, cilantro and kale. Houston is one of four full-time employees at the greenhouse. “We’re planting spring things now,” said Rogers.
Houston said four varieties of ferns, which are also very popular, were planted at the end of July. “They get big, bad and beautiful, unlike the box stores,” she said. B&M’s claim to fame, Rogers said, is the amount of local influence the business has. “It’s local grown. This is something that’s produced right here in the town of Farmville. It’s grown right here … Local people growing these plants.” “It’s not shipped in,” Houston said, looking at rows of plants in the greenhouse. “We raise a lot — a lot of vegetables and herbs.” “It starts picking up whenever the weather gets pretty,” Rogers said of the busy time of the year. “April is probably our busiest month.” “We try to carry things that will do well, heat-tolerant, humidity, things
that’ll do well in this area of the country,” he said of flowers he grows and sells. Most of the seed that B&M purchases for growing and selling comes from Harrisonburg, and many plants are grown from cuttings. “We’re always looking for what’s new,” Rogers said. Though sales representatives and trade magazines and shows keep him and his staff abreast of what’s popular in the plant market, what really tells them what’s selling is what the customers say. “We learn a lot from customers — what does well and what they really like,” Rogers said. B&M’s relationship with its customers and high-quality plants and products are evident through the business’ strength and success — local roots planted deep in Farmville.
JORDAN MILES | HERALD
In addition to offering landscaping services, B&M Greenhouse sells trees, such as the one pictured shrubs, gardening tools and much more.
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BY LYNNE HIGHTOWER, DIANE RELF, KATE DOBBS Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, and Virginia State University
Daylilies are good plants for the beginning gardener because they are relatively maintenance-free. Daylilies are not true lilies (genus Lilium). They belong to the genus Hemerocallis, from the Greek words meaning “day” and “beauty” or “beautiful for a day.” This is appropriate because each blossom typically lasts no more than a day. Each plant produces an abundance of buds, however, so the total blooming time of a well-established clump may be 30-40 days. Daylilies are grown both for their foliage that makes an excellent ground cover and attractive flowers that vary in form and color. Petal shapes available are wide, slightly recurved, overlapping, crinkled, frilled and ruffled. The
Daylilies in Virginia general flower shapes vary from trumpet- and cup-like to those resembling bells. Daylilies occur in a wide assortment of colors including white, yellow, orange, pink, red, and purple with a range within each color category. There are midget, dwarf, intermediate, and tall forms, thus heights range from one to four feet. The flowers last for a day, but are continuously being replaced the next day for as long as six weeks. By selecting early, mid- and late-season varieties, it is possible to extend the flowering season from May - September. Features that make daylilies a favorite to grow are dependability as perennials, hardiness and the fact that they are prolific bloomers relatively free of pests. They are tolerant of drought and flooding; immune to heat stress; tolerant of most soils, full sun, or light shade; and they do not require fertil-
izer. They can be grown in most areas of the country, make excellent cut flowers, and have edible flower heads. The foliage also is quite attractive, offering an interesting textural contrast to other fine-foliaged perennials.
CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS • Light: Daylilies grow best in direct sun or light shade. They perform best with six hours or more of full sun daily. • Soil: A slightly acidic (pH 6 to 6.5) garden loam with good drainage and ample humus is preferred. • Planting: Planting may be done between April and September. Spacing generally is two to three feet between each plant (15-18 inches between miniatures). • Water: Keep plants evenly moist, but not constantly wet. Water should be thoroughly applied following planting until the plants are established. Consistent watering during the flowering period encourages high-quality flowers. A drip-irrigation system is ideal for daylilies. • Fertilizer: Daylilies usually grow well without fertilizer applications. However, if a soil test indicates the need for fertilizer, apply it in early spring. Avoid fertilizers containing too much nitrogen because excess nitrogen encourages flowers with extremely tall stems that break easily. • Mulch: Mulch is not necessary, but
Daylilies should be divided every 3-6 years.
helps to conserve moisture in the soil and control weeds. When choosing a mulch, consider ease of application, durability, attractiveness, moisture retention, cost, and availability. • Pests: Previously considered relatively free of pests, daylilies now have a major disease problem. Daylily rust, caused by the fungus Puccinia hemerocallidis, was identified on daylilies in southeastern United States in the summer of 2000. Daylilies should be divided every three to six years. Divide the plants when the clumps become too dense, when there is an obvious decline in the quality and number of flowers, or when you want to introduce them to a new location. However, some varieties may grow well for many years without being divided.
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Preparing for spring BY JEANNE GRUNERT Extension Master Gardener volunteer
It’s that time of year when the stores are stocked with enticing seed packages and winter seems like it will never end. While it’s tempting to fill your shopping cart with every seed package there is, taking a few minutes to think and plan your spring garden will save you time and money later. The following tips can help you prepare your spring garden for success. • Take note of what you have to work with. Walk around your garden. Where are the bare spots? What needs dividing? Keep in mind any places that look bare but will be full of spring flowers such as daffodils, tulips and crocus later. • Make a simple garden sketch using a pad of paper or graph paper. Note
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permanent structures, such as walkways, sheds and permanent plants like trees and shrubs. • Go through your seed inventory and see what you have. Most gardeners have a box full of seed packages. Which ones can you use, and which should be discarded? • Conduct a simple seed viability test on open seed packages to see how well they might germinate. Shake 10 seeds onto a damp paper towel. Fold the paper towel in half, and place it in sealed plastic bag. Keep it in a warm area and check it within 10 days. Make sure you keep the paper towel moist but not soaking wet. How many seeds germinated? The number of seeds that germinated gives you an estimate on the number of viable seeds remaining in the package. If five seeds out of 10 germinate, about 50 percent of an open package is still
viable. This helps you estimate how many new seeds to buy. • Make a list of the seeds and plants you need to buy before heading out to the store. • Sterilize your seed starting equipment such as trays and pots using a mixture of one part household bleach to nine parts water. Mix the bleach and water, taking care not to get bleach on your skin. • Soak plastic pots and trays in the bleach and water mixture for 10-15 minutes, then rinse with cool water. The bleach mixture kills microorganisms that can harm your new seeds and plants. • Have your soil tested. A soil test tells you what your soil pH level is and what nutrients you may be lacking. Soil tests can help you grow better vegetables and flowers, and they can help you save money, too. You’ll
know exactly which amendments to add and at what quantity with an accurate soil test. Contact your county Cooperative Extension office for details on how to take samples for a soil test and where to bring your sample for evaluation. There is a small fee for a soil test. • Choose some cool-weather loving annuals to brighten window boxes, containers and garden beds. Pansies and violas are two easy care, sun loving annual flowers that can tolerate the cold, but snapdragons and sweet alyssum also tolerate cool spring nights. For more information to help you grow a great garden, visit the Heart of Virginia Master Gardener’s website at www.hovmg.org. See our list of Lunch and Learn sessions and public programs for free gardening classes and discussions open to the public.
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The Blackstone and Nottoway County Historic Garden Week tour BY KAREN CAUTHEN ELLSWORTH Director of Historic Garden Week
This April, there are 30 Historic Garden Week tours taking place from April 23 - April 30. “We are excited to include Blackstone and Nottoway County, which hasn’t been a part of Historic Garden Week for 22 years,” said Megan Cywink-Wopperer, the local tour chairman. “Visitors will travel historic roads amid scenic vistas through the heart of Southside Virginia,” she said. Blackstone features a preserved Historic District with examples of late Gothic Revival, Queen Anne and Romanesque architecture. “Spanning 212 years of Virginia history, this tour features everything from an 1803 plantation to a modern 2015 home,” this busy member of the Brunswick Garden Club, the hosting club, further said. “It features seven private homes with gardens, three garden-only
locations, seven local places of interest and a variety of special activities.” Highlights include Millbrook Plantation, on the National Register of Historic Places. “A circular drive connects to the old, handmade brick sidewalk, which leads to the Greek Revival-style front porch,” she said. “Nandina accentuates the circular drive. Pink, white and red azaleas adorn the main brick sidewalk. There are dogwoods, Rose of Sharon, crepe myrtle and American and English boxwood. It’s just beautiful,” Megan said. With working fields and a mature forest, Millbrook represents the antebellum landscape of Nottoway County. The American cottage-style garden at the Victorian Painted Lady in nearby Crewe is also part of the Blackstone tour. Built in 1903, the home is surrounded by fragrant heirloom bulbs, flowers, shrubs and vines. “It’s a flower-lover’s paradise,” said Megan. “The front yard has borders of euphorbia, forsythia, daylilies and
black-eyed Susans. There are camellias and an ancient wisteria under planted with winter bulbs and ferns. Another bed is anchored by pieris japonica and Lacecap hydrangea with summer phlox, rose campion, Turk’s-cap lilies and bearded iris between them.” The path to the back yard leads visitors to a bigger horticulture display. Curving beds of flowering shrubs, lilies and iris surrounded by magnolia, pecan and cedar trees enclose the back yard. A circa 1800 Meherrin River millstone at the Mill Stone garden, also in Crewe, is the focal point of a shade garden that includes over a hundred varieties of hostas. Cultivated in the center of 61 acres of hardwood forest in Nottoway County, raised stone perennial garden beds and chimney stone form the more traditional aspects of this space, while asphalt testing “pills” are examples of modern gardening practices. The owners have repurposed asphalt millings in their driveway, adding visual appeal and enhancing water conservation. These creative and tranquil rustic garden
See TOUR, Page 7
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TOUR: Event set for April 30 FROM PAGE SIX
retreats invite visitors to enjoy its daffodils, tulips, azaleas, Virginia bluebells and feathery ferns. A blanket of garden phlox, anemone and Jack-inthe-pulpit add further interest to this unique setting. These are just three of the possible 17 stops on the Blackstone tour. “In addition, the tour ticket includes access to a floral arranging demonstration, an interior-design class, two art exhibits and wine tastings, for visitors 21 years of age or older, of course,” Megan said. Properties open at 10 a.m. with activities going until 6 p.m. “I’ve been working on putting together this tour for over two years. It’s going to be a full day and so much fun,” she said. For more information about the Blackstone and Nottoway County tour on April 30 from 10 a.m.-6 p.m., email Megan Cywink at brunswick@vagardenweek.org
What to do with spring bulbs, tubers and corms after they bloom BY CYNTHIA WOOD Extension Master Gardener volunteer
GRETCHEN STEPHENS
Lily-of-the-valley beds accented by evergreen ferns, hostas and Spanish bluebells are part of the shade gardens of this Plantation built in 1803. Mature lilacs, columbine, old quince bushes, a Chinese fringe tree and fig bushes are located in the sunny areas.
The spring garden is full of color from early blooming crocuses, snow drops, daffodils and tulips. Slightly later in the season, the bearded irises put on another spectacular display of form and color. All of these plants will offer repeat performances for many years as long as they’re given just a small amount of tender loving care after they bloom. Depending on the particular cultivar, it’s not unusual for the first crocus, snowdrop and daffodil blooms to appear in late January. Daffodils, tulips and snowdrops grow from bulbs, while crocuses grow from corms, but generally they require the same care after blooming. Just be sure to:
• Remove blooms as soon as they’re past their peak. This prevents the plants from expending energy on the production of seeds rather than next year’s bloom. • At all costs, resist the urge to remove, tie into bundles, braid or mow over the foliage as it flops and becomes somewhat unsightly. After blooming is over, the foliage continues to produce energy that’s important for the development of the next years’ blooms. Wait until the foliage yellows, approximately six weeks after the last blooms and then remove it. Just can’t stand the sight of the yellowing leaves? Interplant these early spring bloomers with other perennials that will camouflage the leaves. • Fertilize with a low nitrogen
See BULBS, Page 8
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BULBS: Ongoing care nets blooms FROM PAGE SEVEN
fertilizer in early spring when the first green shoots appear and then again just as they begin to bloom. • Every 3-5 years, or whenever the number of blooms begins to decrease, dig and divide these bulbs and corms. Daffodil bulbs should be dug and allowed to cure in the sun for about a week before replanting. Tulips are not as long lived as other spring flowering bulbs. While many gardeners prefer to treat them as annuals and remove the bulbs at the end of the growing season, it’s possible to enjoy about three years of blooms before they’re spent. Some varieties are better than others for perennializing, so be sure to check the life expectancy of tulip varieties before purchasing them. Bearded irises offer a multi-colored array of fragrant blooms somewhat later in spring. There are even repeat bloomers that will bloom again in late summer or
early fall. This characteristic is known as remontancy and is often highly variable and dependent on location, climate, and gardening practices. Bearded irises grow from rhizomes. To maintain peak performance, be sure to: • Fertilize with a low nitrogen fertilizer in early spring, around the time that tulips bloom, and then again after the blooms are spent. • Keep iris beds free of weeds, leaves, and other debris so that the rhizomes can receive lots of sun. • Remove each bloom when it withers and then cut the bloom stalk back to the base when all the blooms on it are finished. • Allow the foliage to continue growing throughout late spring and summer; just remove any yellowed or diseased leaves. In fall, cut the foliage back to about six inches. • Thin or divide irises every three to five years, usually in late summer, to prevent overcrowding and to ensure
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maximum blooms. Spring blooming bulbs, corms and rhizomes are excellent additions to the garden. With just a bit of ongoing care, they will provide much pleasure. For more information on a variety of gardening topics, visit the Heart of
Virginia Master Gardener’s website at www.hovmg.org. Check our calendar of Lunch and Learn sessions and public programs for free gardening classes and discussions open to the public. There’s also a blog with information about specific gardening concerns.
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About spring planting BY KAREN CAUTHEN ELLSWORTH Director of Historic Garden Week
The horticultural programming presented by the Garden Club of Virginia, as well as three annual flower shows presented by member clubs, inspire one of Historic Garden Week’s greatest attractions, the world-class floral arrangements created by GCV volunteers. We estimate that over 2,000 arrangements will decorate the featured homes on this year’s tours. A symbol of friendship, the daffodil is a harbinger of spring. According to the American Daffodil Society, there are over 25,000 registered cultivars of daffodils. The 82nd Garden Club of Virginia Daffodil Show will take place in Norfolk on March 30-31 at the Hampton Roads Convention Center. “Attending one our flower shows is an inspiring experience. To be able to meander through the hundreds of gorgeous and pristine entries,
then see the creative and interpretive arrangements by our club members never ceases to amaze me,” said Meg French, a certified landscaper and member of the Garden Club of Virginia Horticulture Committee. “I have often left our flower shows with lists of tempting cultivars that I can’t wait to try in my own garden.” While daffodils and tulips bulbs are planted in the fall, you still have time to enjoy the results of springplanted bulbs. Many produce excellent cut flowers. Dahlias, gladiolas, Oriental lilies and Calla lilies produce dramatic garden color with minimal effort. Tuck them among your perennials for an eyecatching summer display. If roses are the queen of the summer garden, peonies are the princesses that appear after winter’s thaw. “I can’t imagine spring without them. All of mine are from my great-grandmother’s garden,” said Beth DeBergh, horticulture chairman of the Garden Club of Virginia.
Herbaceous peonies grow about 3 feet tall. The mostly fragrant flowers can be white, pink, red, purple and even yellow. Both the single and double-flowered varieties prefer neutral soil that is welldrained. They perform best in a sunny location. In the South, the spring is the time to divide perennials and plant new ones. It is also the time to plant new bare root roses as soon as the ground is workable. Set out tender annuals after danger of frost has past. Top dress with compost, sow seeds and mulch. It’s a busy and productive time in the garden. If you want to germinate perennial seeds, start now. “Be patient with perennial seeds. Where as an annual seed like zinnia will easily germinate in a week, a perennial seed may take up to a month to sprout. Start perennial seeds 8-10 weeks before the last frost free date,” said Meg French. “Make sure to give our seeds plenty of light and don’t let them dry out.”
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A peony takes several years to establish itself when moved, but blooms annually for decades once it has settled.
TORI BROCK
Over 5,700 tulips will be used in an estimated 2,000 floral arrangements created by Garden Club of Virginia volunteers during Historic Garden Week.
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Prepare cooling systems for warm weather One springtime task on homeowners’ to-do lists is checking cooling systems to ensure they are ready for summer. Proper maintenance of cooling systems is essential to saving energy and keeping utility costs down. Fortunately, homeowners need not be certified HVAC technicians to maintain their cooling units. • Clean filters. Whether a home is kept cool by a whole-house central air conditioning system or window units, clean filters are necessary to keep the units working efficiently. Routinely replacing or cleaning filters is one of the most important maintenance tasks to improve airflow and increase efficiency. The U.S. Office of Energy Efficiency & Renewable Energy says replacing a dirty, clogged filter with a clean one can lower an air conditioner’s energy consumption
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by anywhere from 5 - 15 percent. • Know the square footage. When replacing a cooling system, have an understanding of the size of your home (or room if installing an window unit). Determine the area of the home so you buy a unit that suits your needs. Air conditioners use BTUs (British Thermal Units) to define cooling power. The more BTUs, the larger the space that can be cooled. However, homeowners do not want to exceed the necessary cooling power. This leads to energy waste. EnergyStar.gov can help homeowners find the right cooling system for their needs. • Inspect system coils. The evaporator and condenser coils on air conditioners can collect dirt, even when filters are maintained. Dirty coils are less efficient at absorbing heat, so periodically remove the dirt. Outdoor
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coils can be kept cleaner by cutting back foliage from the unit to allow better air flow. • Inspect condensate drains. Energy.gov also suggests making sure condensate drains, which take moisture pulled from the air away, are functioning properly. If they’re clogged, they may not be effective at reducing humidity in a home, and they may even leak. • Clear debris. Remove fallen leaves or other plant material from condenser units and fan blades. Obstructed components can cause the system to retain heat, compromising its ability to work effectively. Some homeowners prefer to cover their condensers at the end of the cooling season to keep leaves and dirt out of the unit. • Check window unit seals. When installing window units, make sure all seals around the air conditioner are in place to prevent cool-air loss. • Hire a technician. Air conditioner technicians can be very helpful and will know how to prepare a system for hot weather. Technicians typically conduct multipoint inspections and measure such things as refrigerant levels and duct leakage. Airflow through the evaporator coil also may be checked. If a homeowner suspects the thermostat is not working prop-
Inspecting system coils, condensate drains and clearing HVAC units is recommended for efficiency.
erly, a technician can verify if that is true and even install a new one if necessary. As summer approaches, homeowners should prepare their air conditioning units for the busy months ahead.
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Tips to finding the right contractor Home improvement projects tend to be costly. Because of the considerable financial investment homeowners must make when improving their homes, it’s important to find a contractor you can trust and feel comfortable with. The vast majority of professional contractors are trustworthy and willing to work with homeowners to help them design the homes of their dreams. But there are still some tips homeowners can keep in mind as they begin their search for a contractor. • Work only with licensed contractors. Licensed contractors have been verified as legitimate by your local governing body, removing much of the fears homeowners have with regard to finding trustworthy contractors. Unlicensed contractors may not be insured or bonded, and their estimates may be lower than their licensed competitors’ because they do not contribute to unemployment. Licensed contractors often are subjected to criminal background checks as well, calming homeowners’ fears about inviting strangers into their homes. • Ask for recommendations. Word-ofmouth is great when looking for contractors. Oftentimes, a contractor’s best friends are his past clients. Ask friends or neighbors for recommendations on local contractors, inquiring about prices as well as each particular contractor’s demeanor and openness to suggestions.
Written estimates and recommendations are important to hiring contractors.
contract should spell out the materials and equipment that will be used, as well as the final cost of the project, the payment schedules while the project is ongoing and the work schedule. • Keep track of all paperwork and pay by check. Once you sign the contract, create a folder where you can store all paperwork. Scan each document so you can store them on your computer as well. When payments must be made,
never pay in cash. Pay by check and do not pay for the entirety of the project upfront, opting instead to pay at predetermined intervals spelled out in your contract. Nerves often come into play when hiring a home contractor, but homeowners who take a careful approach to the hiring process will likely end up hiring a trustworthy contractor who does great work.
Contact your local Office of Consumer Affairs to check each contractor’s complaint history. • Get written estimates. Before hiring a particular firm, get written estimates from several contractors. Some contractors will charge fees for the estimate, but they must inform you of those fees before the estimates are provided. Compare estimates so you can get a better grasp of how much your project will cost. While cost is important, try to avoid choosing a contractor based on cost alone, as a good rapport with a contractor who may be more expensive might make spending a little more money worth it. • Make sure the contract is specific. When you choose a contractor, make sure the contract he or she provides is very specific, going into great detail about the specifics of the project. This
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Signs that your home insulation is not working
Some insulations can lose performance over time, sustain damage or simply no longer meet updated building codes. It’s an issue that can be costly, because if your home’s insulation isn’t doing its job, you could be wasting money and resources. You don’t have to be a trained professional to know you have a problem. Here are several signs that your insulation is lacking: • Energy bills — High energy bills are the biggest red flag, especially relative to the size, age or condition of the home. If you have a run-away energy bill, your insulation may need to be upgraded. This can be the case, even in a newer home. • Drafts — Do you need to put on a sweater even with the heat on, or does your air conditioner run incessantly without making enough of a difference?
That’s a sign of a deficiency in your building envelope. • Inconsistent temperatures — Is it warm in one room, but cold in another? Are your walls or interior closets cold to the touch? It’s possible that while your whole home may not need attention, certain rooms may need to be addressed. • Condition of insulating materials — Consider the age of your insulation. Would it stand up to today’s building codes? Is it in good shape or is it crumbly? If your insulation has degraded or isn’t performing, it’s time for an upgrade. But be careful, as certain types of older insulation, such as Vermiculite insulation, may contain asbestos. If you’re unsure, do not disturb it and hire a professional to conduct testing and/ or removal. This should not be a do-ityourself job.