Darcy - Heather Barras by Fash Comm

Darcy

Contents

Three Modern-day Jane Austen Novels

Cascades of Peace...........................................................................................................................................Pg. 13 The Perfect Tryst.....................................................................................................................................................Pg. 31 A Marital Death Bed..................................................................................................................................Pg. 45

Does Mother Nature Always Make Scents? ........................................................................................................Pg. 63

A Foggy Morning Walk .....................................................................................................Pg. 79 A Never Ending Story

The simple reason why the UK’s countryside and rich natural resources will always influence fashion collections.

........................................................................................................Pg. 73

Rule Britannia

Can the UK’s fashion manufacturers put the ‘Great’ back into Britain?

........................................................................................................Pg. 87

Darcy | Contents

Editor’s Letter Dear Readers, The release of Darcy has brought into the world a brand new and unique publication and I cannot be more thrilled that you are flicking through it’s first ever pages. Differing itself from other fashion and lifestyle publications, Darcy prides itself on celebrating the beauty of our countryside here in the UK, reminding you of the forgotten serenity and romantic rural escapes that are nowadays often overpowered by the stresses of city life. Darcy focuses heavily on Jane Austen, as well as current topics in the fashion industry, as well as brands and products that we think you really need to know about. In particular, we invite you to relax and immerse yourself in our modern-day Jane Austen novels, narrated by romantic, beautifully styled fashion editorials, modelled by the wonderful Ruth Patterson, Julie Aston and Sophia Hickinson (pgs.13-63). We know it’s hard to let the heat and sunshine of the summer (or lack of) fade away into a distant memory, but with a typically English cold snap here to stay, Darcy invites you to layer up, kick back, and embrace the chill. Hibernation is not an option. Until next month,

Heather Barras Editor

Darcy | Editor’s Letter

Words and Photographs by Heather Barras

Cut out and use as a bookmark

Slippers on? Fire lit? Cup of tea at the ready?

Immerse yourself in three modern-day Jane Austen novels

Cascades of Peace...........................................................................Pg.13 The Perfect Tryst.....................................................................................Pg.31 A Marital Death Bed..................................................................Pg.45

Cascades of Peace

Darcy | Cascades of Peace

or as long as she could remember, Carolynn Beaumont had lived a life of wealth, a life of comfortable luxury; of fine things and grandeur. But as an only child of not yet 19, she was much accustomed to an independent life, often venturing out into the beautiful countryside of the North Yorkshire Dales, enjoying the peace and relaxing in her thoughts. Never would she tire of the steady sounds of singing birds, rustling trees nor trickling water; this was her true home. A home in which she lived within lavishly decorated walls, under exquisitely luxurious chandeliers, and in the uncomfortable confines of her father’s melancholy. A wealthy man was Robert Beaumont; a proud and successful banker, notwithstanding a most loving, lively and congenial nature which forever warmed the hearts of Carolynn and her beloved mother Mary. They lived contentedly in the abundant Beaumont household and were forever teaching Carolynn to be selfless, charitable and compassionate, traits of which ex-seamstress Mary, continued to possess as she stayed rooted to her modest early background. She and Robert met at a fairly young age; their love for one another instantaneously enchanting and perpetual, and thus they were soon married. But as the winter of 1816 approached, with Carolynn a mere age of 8, a devastating outbreak of influenza grievously snatched the life of a most adored mother and wife. Carolynn; young, devastated and fragile watched as the light and glimmer in her father’s eyes faded away, only to be replaced by despair and hostility. Affectionate he was not, and the former loving father was replaced by a shell of a man - broken, cold and ill-tempered. The sun was gleaming through a gap in the burgundy, satin curtains as Carolynn stirred. It was going to be a beautiful day. Quietly, she ventured downstairs in search of her walking boots, her wavy, dark auburn hair flowing dreamily behind her as she rushed into the kitchen and through to the back door, for she did not want to miss the morning sunshine whilst she was lucky enough to have it. It cannot have been later than 6 o’clock, yet she was desperate to get out into the open air before anyone else in the house awoke; her father had been particularly bad tempered the previous evening and she did not wish for a recurrence. Carolynn stopped at the backdoor and gazed out into the bright sunlight that was shining onto the pond. As the water reflections glimmered over her pale skin and rosy cheeks, her mind apprehensively flickered back to the incident she had had with her father last night in that very room. The shouting. The cold shoulder. The threats. The tears that flowed so quickly from her bright blue eyes. Why pray tell did he have to be so cruel? When was her loving father going to return, if ever? ‘Enough’, Carolynn told herself. She would not waste another moment of such a glorious day distressing about him; familiar as she was with his behaviour by now. She sighed deeply and proceeded out into the fresh air, her long dress hanging over her boots as she attempted to leave the stresses of the previous evening at home behind her. By the time she had reached the waterfall, the sun had been blanketed by fine, grey clouds. Nevertheless she did not mind; the clean, fresh air of the countryside had comforted her and she finally felt relaxed. Through to the clearing she stepped, crunching on brown leaves and hopping over puddles, bending branches and holding her dress lest it get ruined, as she drew closer and closer to the increasing sound of rushing water. Carolynn felt that same feeling she would always experience when she neared the waterfall, a combined feeling of excited anticipation, peace and awe, for this was the place she adored most in the world. A place she could truly escape. In the beauty of the flowing river, the shining, hypnotic reflections and the overwhelming sounds of cascading water, she sat tranquil in her usual place, closed her eyes, and allowed her troubles to be wonderfully washed away...

Darcy | Cascades of Peace

17 15

In the beauty of the flowing river, the shining, hypnotic reflections...

Darcy | Cascades of Peace

A place she could truly escape.

Darcy | Cascades of Peace

As the water reflections glimmered...

Darcy | Cascades of Peace

The Perfect Tryst

Darcy | The Perfect Tryst

delicate smile spread across Charlotte Middleham’s freckled, rosy face as her mind recalled the way he had looked at her when last she had seen him. The warm, fluttery feeling she had felt when they first met was growing again deep inside her chest. It was a feeling so wonderful that she felt she might faint from happiness. She took a deep sigh of contentedness and looked out onto the ocean. Waves crashed onto the shore below, the jagged edges of the cliffs echoing the ferocious sounds up to where she was standing and the salt-laden wind whipped her long hair around her face. They had agreed to elope, planning to catch an arranged boat at 4 o’ clock from Marsden Beach; a secluded cove often used for clandestine operations. ‘Why, oh why does it have to affect us, Thomas?’, she had cried to him during an evening tryst a few days prior. ‘I do not know, my love, for the feuds of egotistical old men from long ago should not deprive us of a lifetime of incandescent happiness’, he had sincerely replied. But much to their dismay, the feud between the Middleham and Farnham families was far too severe to be forgotten. It had begun centuries ago over land ownership; tempers raged and brawls, conflicts and the most violent disputes became commonplace. Under no circumstances could a Middleham consort with a Farnham, let alone be married. The consequences of such a liason could be tragic, constituting fraternisation with the enemy. Thomas Farnham was a handsome young man. His eyes were the colour of water, and his hair of sand; never in her wildest dreams had she seen a man so admirable. Ignorant of each other’s surnames, she and Thomas fell deeply and irrevocably in love. The day Thomas revealed to Charlotte the truth of their backgrounds, they vowed to keep their relationship secret, meeting covertly until one day, they were discovered. The repercussions were worse than they had imagined; inter-family warfare escalated and they were forcibly prohibited from laying eyes on each other again. But now she could spy the meeting place; a dark secluded cave fronted by calm waters. He would be on his way to meet her now; soon they would be free to live a blissful life together. No one to separate them. No one to dictate their destinies. All she prayed for now was that he would arrive in time – in time for them to cast off before the search parties began.

Darcy | The Perfect Tryst

All she prayed for now was that he would arrive in time...

Darcy | The Perfect Tryst

A Marital Deathbed Darcy | A Marital Deathbed

n the icy, gusty wind that whistled and howled around her ears, her dark brown hair swept over her shoulders as she looked out onto the vast landscape, the thick trees and steep banks below. Georgiana Westwick had spent two days desperately climbing and now she had succeeded in reaching the top. Up into the clouds, and into the mist. She was now invisible, and for the first time in the previous two days she felt like she was finally alone. Alone to be free. Alone to forget the lamentable and deplorable memories that chased her away from the town far below; the town she once called home. Georgiana was never a cruel girl. She was never one to argue or be rude, raised to be a polite, gentle and angelic young woman, and that she was. Nevertheless, when the time came for her to find a husband, she objected; to her, the man she was to marry was an unsuitable match. Peter Westwick was a vindictive, inhumane and spiteful man whose intentions were clear; to inherit her father’s hard-earned money. He was an ex-soldier, a Sergeant Major of dictatorial character, whose acquaintances, much to the ignorance of the town’s respected families, included outlaws and ne’er-do-wells. Georgiana pleaded with her parents to find another suitor, only they were charmed by the glisten in his eye, his formal demeanour and the captivating way he spoke about his love for their daughter. But he was a fraud. The week before the wedding Peter saw the doubt and fear in Georgiana’s big brown eyes and threatened her; if she did not marry him, he would have her silenced. Once married, Georgiana lived a life of misery. A life of creeping around corners of their beautiful, large manor house in fear of confrontation with her husband. Many nights she spent unable to sleep; the bruises and the cuts inflicted on her by Peter were too painful to mask, and the violent nausea and repulsion she felt after he forced himself upon her night after night was too much to bear. She had to get out. As Georgiana stood, free in the mist and letting the wind billow around her long flowing dress, kept in place by the warm tailored jacket she had stolen from Peter’s wardrobe, she relived what she had done moments before she fled home. The home town in which she had so happily grown up, but where her parents would at that very moment be devastated and ashamed to call her their daughter. There was no blood. Just silence. The spade fell from her fingertips as her shaky grasp eased and tears streamed down her face. What had she done? She was a monster, a far worse human being than Peter Westwick, who lay lifeless and cold on the wooden floor, for she had just committed murder. Her life as she knew it, as that polite, gentle and angelic young woman was over, and as the realisation established itself, Georgiana knew she had to flee the life she had so ardently loved once before and go somewhere that no one would find her.

Darcy | A Marital Deathbed

Does Mother Nature

Always Make Scents? _______

The British Perfume industry seems to be growing, with an increasing demand for natural scents that can lead us back to happy memories or lead us forward to memories still being created just by the aroma of the UK’s flora, fauna and coastal breezes! Judith Watson examines some of the issues related to this emerging market.

here’s no denying that British women, both young and old, are influenced by those TV adverts and strong marketing campaigns when it comes to buying perfume. The desire to appear sexy, free spirited or fresh and independent just by applying a fragrance beguiles us into parting with our hard-earned cash, even in these times of having to tighten our belts. Few of us can resist the beautiful, over the top packaging and the celebrity association of a particular fragrance. But behind all the hype and the huge boxes containing a disappointingly small bottle of perfume lies a quandary: is our seemingly endless desire for fragrance actually harming our health? It seems that there is a growing number of people, both men and women of all ages who are looking for more natural products when it comes to fragrances, cosmetics or household products such as cleaning agents. For some, it is a desire to be more considerate of the environment, whilst others are concerned about the use of synthetic ingredients which they feel are harmful to one’s health. Undoubtedly, it is well known that some people are allergic to some of the man made ingredients, hence the growing range of ‘fragrance free’ and ‘for sensitive skin ‘ products. Indeed, some of the synthetic ingredients in perfume are known to affect asthma suffers in particular. So what are the arguments for and against going ‘au naturel’ with your choice of perfume? It helps to begin with a short history lesson on the perfume industry.

Darcy | Does Mother Nature Always Make Scents

Originally of course, all products were made from natural ingredients but manufacturers and scientists learned to produce chemicals identical to nature. With the Victorian and Edwardian’s appetite for fragrance, they needed to be able to produce in large volumes without impacting too much on natural resources. These developments have resulted in today’s worldwide perfume industry that relies heavily on mimicking natural aromas by the use of synthetic products formed mainly from petrochemicals. Indeed, 95% of chemicals used in perfume are derived from petrol. The chemical cocktails used by the well known brands are guarded secrets and the perfume houses are not required to list the ingredients on a perfume bottle’s label. It is simply sufficient for the likes of Dior or Chanel to say that it contains ‘parfum’. For some people, there is particular concern about the synthetic musks and phthalates which are potentially hazardous. The former has been linked to the disruption of hormones and has been found to be present in breast milk, whilst the latter has been linked to male reproductive damage. However, the Fragrance Foundation stresses that all synthetics are rigorously tested and have to meet safety standards as laid down by the EU. Yet because we don’t know the ingredient content of perfume, it seems that if we DO want to know what’s in that beautifully crafted bottle waiting for us under the Christmas tree, we have to go natural and organic.

So what is a ‘natural’ perfume? Well, it means that it’s ingredients are not synthetic, artificial or manufactured in any way. A true botanical scent for instance, will be both natural and vegan, containing no beeswax, musk or alcohol. Supporters of natural scents highlight the belief that if the ingredients are natural, then they are less likely to harm us or the environment. But if nothing natural ever harms us, how is it that some people are allergic to strawberries or nuts for example? Then there’s the question of pesticides. If a perfume isn’t vegan, then those beautifully cultivated fields of lavender, primula or natural ever harms us, how is it that some people are allergic to strawberries or nuts for example? Then there’s the question of pesticides. If a perfume isn’t vegan, then those beautifully cultivated fields of lavender, primula or rose, may well have been treated with pesticides which could potentially be just as harmful as those synthetic ingredients you were trying to avoid. There’s also the issue of sustainability and the threat to endangered species. Did you know for instance that the fragrant sandalwood tree is now an endangered species because of our desire for fine fragrance or that musk is derived from deers’ antlers by painful extraction? Add to this the argument of the scientists and manufacturers

of essential perfume oils, that they are now able to produce synthetic oils which are so pure; it could be argued that the oils are purer than the natural form. So where does this all leave Mother Nature in our passionate desire to evoke memories and send signals to each other, just by a lingering smell that we leave behind us as we walk through the office or restaurant? Well, there’s a growing demand it seems, even though natural scents may not be as long lasting or as powerful as their synthetic counterparts. More and more people are wanting to know the origins of their perfume and to be more connected with the British countryside, a desire to link more to the English country garden or the natural fragrances of the Scottish heath lands. Such is this growing demand that it would certainly seem that there is a place for Mother Nature to make sense of it all, providing manufacturers can be scrupulous in their handling of the environment and ecological issues. If not, then Mother Nature may end up making little scent for most of us.. Written by Judith Watson.

Darcy | Does Mother Nature Always Make Scents

See for yourself ... If you would like to find out more about some of the companies involved in the manufacture of natural fragrances, then look into any of the following:

National Trust Fragrance and Toiletries Collection:

The Hop Shop: The Hop Shop, Castle Farm, Kent grows 85 acres of lavender, particularly the Maillette variety for perfume, a pure lavender known for its soothing and calming properties. Castle Farm supplies to Yardley amongst others.

4 fragrances inspired by the coast, countryside, gardens and woodlands which aim to harness the scents of the UK’s natural beauty. www.nationaltrust.org.uk

www.hopshop.co.uk

The Hop Shop Lavandin, Rosemary and Thyme Room Spray. 100ml.

National Trust Woodland Eau de Toilette 100ml.

Penhaligon’s:

Union:

A niche British perfumery, who’s perfumes constantly refer back to the past to inspire new fragrances which remain iconically British.

A British perfume brand that uses wild flora, garden classics and weeds as well as thistle from Scotland, bracken from the Borders, and bay from Pembrokeshire in Wales.

www.penhaligons.com

www.unionfragrance.com

Penhaglion Peoneve Eau de Parfum. 100ml.

Union Gothic Bluebell Eau de Toilette. 100ml. Selfridges

Darcy | Does Mother Nature Always Make Scents

A Never Ending Story ______

The simple reason why the UK’s countryside and rich natural resources will always influence fashion collections.

Written by Jennifer Clark

ccording to ASOS, countryside fashion is alive and well and definitely on trend. It seems we can’t get enough of the fashion styles and fabrics influenced by the country set or even the countryside itself. It wasn’t always the case though. Countryside fashion grew out of necessity; a need for warm waterproof clothing or boots to deal with the wet and mud. However, in recent years we have seen the designs of the likes of Paul Smith being influenced by the British countryside. The inspiration of the English aristocracy, woollens, tweed and caps has been evident on the catwalk. Similarly, major brand Burberry, once popular with the upper classes and the landed gentry, now appeals to a far greater clientele, especially with its iconic trench coat. Even television has had a part to play. The Downton Abbey series has created a demand for lace and beaded dresses, Art Deco jewellery and tweed jackets, whilst Hunter Wellies are a must have, especially for the annual festival goers, as a result of shows such as Made in Chelsea. As far back as the late 18th century we can see the countryside’s influence on men’s fashions which adopted the countryside look by adapting the landed gentry’s hunting coat with exaggerated tails and knee length boots. In the 1980’s the term ‘Sloane Ranger’ was coined by Peter York and Ann Barr to depict the countryside class traditions maintained by the wealthy set in Kensington, including Lady Diana Spencer.

More recently, Emma Elwick-Bates, Vogue’s market editor, said of the 2012-13 collection that “the familiar country dress codes of plaid, corduroy and traditional tailoring were seen throughout the collection” whilst major handbag brand Mulberry, with a manufacturing base in Somerset, “ has always sought to represent a unique juxtaposition between global fashion influence and a heart routed in the countryside”, according to its Chief Executive, Godfrey Davis. But it’s not just the traditions of the country folk that influence fashion. We can see the British countryside in the colour and pattern of its fabrics, in its texture and besides the ‘big boys’ out there, there are plenty of smaller players who are succeeding in carrying on the crafts of cloth and garment manufacture sourcing local products and utilising home grown skills. Some of these companies such as Merchant Fox and Peregrine have carried on the traditions of weaving quality cloth and bespoke tailoring, appealing to the luxury market, whilst others such as Izzy Lane is a leading ethical fashion brand and voice for animal welfare within the fashion industry. Designers have always been influenced by the change of the seasons and the natural shapes and colours of flora and fauna, woodland and landscape features. No doubt they will continue to do so, because whatever the latest trend, we will always love our warm and vibrant colours of rich earthy browns, wine and russets to be reflected in our autumn and winter clothes. And what better, after a long, cold and wet winter to emerge in our spring outfits of light and bright colours to uplift the soul! There will always be fashionistas who hanker after a rich, strong botanical print, whatever the trend for bold stripes. As the spring 2013 collections of Marc Jacobs, Jason Wu and Alexander Wang demonstrated, even in amongst the bold black and white stripes, the florals were still very much there.

Darcy | A Never Ending Story

AUTUMN

Darcy | A Never Ending Story

SPRING

Darcy | A Never Ending Story

A Foggy Morning Walk Just because the weather outside is miserable, it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean that relaxing Sunday morning walks in the countryside or on the coast should be put on hold.

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hibernate. Embrace the chill.

Darcy | A Foggy Morning Walk

The Cold Snap.

Darcy | A Foggy Morning Walk

Rule Britannia _______

Can the UK’s fashion manufacturers put the ‘Great’ back into Britain? Written by Christopher Scott

uch has been said about how wonderful 2012 has been for the UK. Even after the main events of the Queen’s Jubilee and the London Olympics, Britain is still bathing in the glory of all of those gold medals and the pride of the nation and is still feeling the after effects. The tourist industry seems to be alive and well - you only have to visit somewhere like Bath during the Christmas market period to realise that the UK is a massive draw for people from around the world. But what of its day to day life and central industries such as fashion and textile? There can be no doubt that the industry benefited hugely from the ‘2012’ effect, what with the glut of ‘Union Jack’ festooned fashions and accessories. It seemed that anything which portrayed the ‘Britishness’ of the nation was in great demand. But now that it’s all over, what remains? Centuries ago, the textile industry was central to the economy. It was at the heart of the industrial revolution and unfortunately the slave trade. According to the UK Fashion and Textile Association, even as recently as 1904, 1.2 million people were employed in the industry. But our demand for cheaper fashion, that can change at a whim or the slight of a celebrity’s hand, led to a mass exodus of the UK as manufacturers sought to cut costs by moving much of the industry abroad. By 2010, that 1.2million people working in the fashion and textile industry in the UK was reduced to 19,000. The Channel 4 documentary, ‘Made in Britain’ investigated the last clothing company in

Darcy | Rule Britannia

Salford, Cooper and Stollbrand as it struggled to survive; and survive it did, by diversifying its customer base and reinventing itself to manufacture clothing for high end retail stores and quality outlets. Other companies, such as Private White VC, have done much the same and are managing to survive by producing quality clothing. However, there lies the rub, because companies such as these seem to be surviving because they are appealing to the customer from abroad – a customer who is desperate to get their hands on anything made in Britain. In September 2012, the BBC investigated the popularity of British fashion in the documentary entitled ‘How Popular is Made in Britain Fashion’ and concluded that for many of the UK’s clothing manufacturers, their future success lies not within the UK but in their ability to appeal to the discerning international customer looking for quality. Anya Hindmarsh, handbag designer and trade ambassador, comments that “Made in Britain has cachet again. It’s shorthand for a certain kind of luxury”.

Some of the major high street brands are also fighting back. Top Shop, George and River Island have all launched ‘Made in Britain’ clothing lines and are trying to bring some of the production back to the UK. But since the massive decline of the industry, 80% of the UK’s mass market fashions are manufactured abroad and the problem is that the industry can no longer cope with such high manufacturing levels. It seems that most of us in the UK want cheaper, decent quality high street fashions and don’t really mind that much about the fact that this season’s LBD is made abroad. Yet there is a market out there for the higher priced, higher quality goods, not only from abroad but also from the UK. Those of us who are able to, are increasingly willing to pay more for high quality fabrics and designs which reflect Britain’s uniqueness.

Britain used to be Great Britain and maybe it is becoming great again, especially where the manufacture of our clothing is concerned. It seems that ‘Britishness’ is the USP that makes the higher price we pay, seem worth it.

Darcy | Rule Britannia

Just a little treat...

As a thank you from everyone at

Darcy, we have provided you with an official bookmark, as well as an official lip balm to keep your lips rosy through the cold snap!

Darcy | Complimentary Gift

Contributors Editor Heather Barras

Creative Assistants Elizabeth Champ Dana Ali Jack Cousens Artem Krasnikov

Models Ruth Patterson Julie Aston Sophia Hickinson

Feature Writers Judith Watson Jennifer Clark Christopher Scott

Illustrators Trevor Wood Nancy Drysdale

Darcy | Contributors

ImageCredits Editorial Photography Heather Barras

A Never Ending Story Burberry Prorsum Mui Mui Jason Wu Alexander McQueen Mulberry Ralph Lauren Hermes Pringle of Scotland Marc Jacobs

Does Mother Nature Always Make Scents The National Trust The Hop Shop Penhaglionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Union

Rule Britannia Barbour Anya Hindmarsh Jo Gordon Izzy Lane Grenson Cabinet Jas MB Paper London Private White VC Salford, Cooper & Stollband Topshop

Darcy | Image Credits

Darcy